US542443A - John s - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.)

J. s. HAND. TAILOR'S DRAFTING INSTEUMENT.

No. 542,443. Pat ented July 9, 1895..

NITED STATES i ATENT OFFICE@ JOHN S. HAND, OF SAN'FRANCISGO, CALIFORNIA, ASSIGNOR TO LILLIA HAND, OF SAME PLACE.

TALo-rs DRAFTING-INST'RUMENT.

SPECIFIGATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 542,443, dated July 9, 1 895.

Application filed November 5, 1894. Serial No. 527360. (No model.) 4 i To all whom it may camera:-

r Be it known that I, JOHN S. HAND, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city' and County of San Francisco and State of California, have invented anew and useful Tailor-s Drafting-Instrument, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to devices or instruments for the use of tailors in laying off and drafting patterns for garments; and the same consists in certain novel parts and combination of parts, as hereinafter fully set forth, producing a tool or instrument of novel construction and operation. i i

This instrument is designed and produced for the purpose of obtaining different diameters of the body, the length and the outlines of the figure of a person from which to lay off and draft patterns for coats, waistcoats, trousers, and other garments according to certain determined and established planes and points' thereon, and it is intended to be used in connection with a fixed vertical planeor surface on which a sheet of paper is stretched or temporarily fixed to receive the points and lines which are transferred to and marked on it by the instrument from the person being measured.

The device or instrument consists, essentially, of a straight bar or rod of proper stiffness to retain its form without alteration when used and handled, and carrying on one end a cross-head provided with a pencil or tracing-point and at the opposite end a handle. Between these two ends there is a slide carrying an arm that projects at right angles from the bar and is provided with a roller on the extreme end, the said slide being movable and adjustable along the bar and provided with means to clamp it on the bar at any desired point between the ends thereof. The said parts I proceed to construct and comhine or arrange together for operation as follows, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, fcrming a part of this specification, in which-- i Fignre l illustrates the use and operation of the instrument in laying off and transferring different diameters and main lines and points from the figure of a customer directly upon a vertical plane. Fig. 2 is a perspective Viewof the instrument, and Fig. 2 is a view looking toward the front face of the head Fig. 3 is a top view of the instrument, the

cross-head being shown in section, taken in a plane about on the line 3 3, Fig. 2.

A indicates a thin blade about twenty inches in length, constructed of metal of suitable stiffness to retain a true straight form without bendlng, and B is a circular plate of metal, in the center of which one end of the blade is fixed. This plate or circular head is finished with a true face on the back or outer side all around the margin and the blade is fixed in position standing out at a true right angle with the face of the circular head, so that when the head is placed against a plane surface the blade A will stand at a right angle to that surface.

B' 13 are tubular sockets containing tracing points or pencils b and springs ?9 behind the pencil acting to press them ontward with suitable degree of force to hold the point in working contact with the plane surface against which the circular head is placed. In each socket is a shorter tubular holder with a pin projecting through a bayonet-slot in the socket as a means of drawing the marking-point into the socket and holding it back out of action. The coil-spring is placed between the closed end of thetsocket and the back of the tubular holder. O is a socket of similar character, containing a marking-point C in the middle ofthecircular head'and directly in line with the top edge of the blade.

D is a slide fitted on the blade to move smoothly along it from end to end, and` provided with set-screws d d for clamping it in position when set at any given point on the' blade. From one side or face of the slide D projects an arm E, fixed to that face and eX- tending perpendicular thereto and consequently at a right angle to the face'of the blade, the face of the slide being parallel with the blade. V On the opposite side orface of the slide is a similar arm E standing in'the same relative position to the face of the blade on the side opposite to the arm E and also directly in line with that arm. The linear distance from the face of the blade outward to the end of the arm E or' E oorresponds to the distance from the same face of the blade at the head outward to the line on which is Situated the marking-point on' that side of the head, as illustrated in Fig. 3, and these relations of the outer ends of the arms and the marking-points are preserved under all conditions of adjustment of the slide D on the blade. On the end of each arm is asmall rowel or toothed wheelf, pivotedin' a slit'to" revolve freely. The extreme end of the arm should lie in a plane with the markin-g-pointthat is, on the same side of the head-and the points of the wheel should project sufficiently beyond that end to engage the surface o'f the cloth or covering on the" body-and rotateas'- the instrument is moved. The endof' the` arm should be brought up to the surface with just enough pressure to make this wheel turn, but any eXces's of pressure would, of course,

change the contour of the line draw'n o'n' the planefrom what it really is on' thegarme nt worn by the customerat the time this measure is taken', and the samemust'be'avoided.

The top edge of the blade is theworking edge', and the' enter ends ofthe arms andth'e points' of, the marker all lie in the same" horizontal plane'.

For'the convenient and ready' manipulation* of the instrument ahandle I-I is'fixed o'n-the' outer end of the blade. i

The instrumentthus constrcted isusedin the following manner: Against a' smo``)tl'1fstation'ary vertical plane of suitable height'and breadth is spread and temporarily' attache'd a* sheet of paper, (indicated at X, Fig. 1.) The person from whom the" patte'rnsare" to be' drafted then takes his position in front ofthe plane X, usually standing on a low platfortn and then the instrument, being held against the Vertical plane, as before mentioned, is

moved slowly down the plane, the operator taking pains to guide and hold the pointof the arm E in contact with the surface in front of it during the movement. It'will be seen, therefore, that the pencil-point in the tube marks upon the vertical plane the Outline of the surface against which the end of the arm is in contact in such movement of the instrument. Beginning at the nape of the neck at the top of the middle seain of the coat, for example, the instrument is moved from that position regularly downward-along the back and then downward along the back of theleg to the bottom of the trou'sers; several posi tions" of the instrument invthis movement downward are indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 1. After Operating in this manner at the back, the instrument is shifted to' the front and the opposite arm E and pencilpoint b are brought into play, while the pencil 'b is set back in to its tube. From the liues thus transferred to the paper on the vertical Lplane are obtained the contour of the front,

arm or inthe crotch, taking care to maintain a true horizontal position of the blade by holding the circular head flat against the vertical plane' and thenreleasing the marking point in the tube C, allowing it to strike the-paper;

This is the' manner of using` and Operating the instrument: The armor tracing-point on the blade and the pencil or marker on the head is duplicated, so that thereis a set on each side of the instrument; thisconstrnction is chiefly to' allow the instrument to be 'shifted from one side to the other of the person being measured without turnin'gthe instrument over, and in the ar rahgement herein shown and described the several actingpoints mentioned are all situated in ahorizontal plane with the top edge of the bla-desc' that the instrument could not be turned over without changing the relation of that part to thevertioal plane.

The' object of,

Having thus fully described my invention, V

what I claim as new therein, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. The herein described instrument for drafting patterns comprising a straight blade a fixed head'onohe end thereof, the outer face of which is at a right angle to the blade, an adjustable slide on the blade carrying arms that project on opposite sides of the blade and at a'right angle thereto, and fixed sockets on the head having pencil-points and meansror projecting said points beyond the face of the' head and for drawing them within the same; the said pencil-points being located in line with the outer ends of the projeoting arms on the blade and in planes parallel with the blade.

2. The combination with the straight blade -`-A- and the fixed cross-head B- thereon, of the adjustable slide on the blade carrying an arm projecting outward at a right angle -to the blade, and the marking-point on the head IIG in line with the outer end of the said arm andng-point -C on the center of the head,

constructed for operation substantally s hereinbefore described.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing have hereunto set; my hand and seal.

JOHN S. HAND. [L. 8.]

Witnesses:

e EDWARD E. OSBORN,

C. W. M. SMITH.

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