US491950A - Geraldine o brien - Google Patents

Description

(Speelmens.)

G. oBRIBN, GOMBINATIO'NKNITTED UNDBRGARMENT. No.`491,9750. Patented Feb. 14, 1.893.v

UNrrn STATES GERALDINE OBRIEN, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO JOHN HOLMES, OF SAME PLACE.

COMBINATION YKNITTED UNDERGARMENT.

SIECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent Application filed August 8, 1892.

T0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that l, GERALDINE OBRIEN, of Boston, county of Suifolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Combination Knitted Undergarments, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention has for its object to improve the shape and fit of combination garments especially about the shoulders.

In this invention, the inner or large end of the sleeve is provided with selvage edges which are secured to selvageedges at the front and back of the garment, the selvage edges coming at the sides of the arm scye. The front and the back of the garment are so shaped and are of such relative length that the shoulder seams fall on the back of the shoulders rather than on the top of the shoulders as heretofore, such construction insuring a much smoothert of the garment to the shoulder and breast. The garment has a seam from under the arm scye to a point below the hips, and the fabric where it covers the hip is widened and complementarily narrowed to afford fullness at the hips, and I also widen the fabric from the waist portion to the under side of the arm scye.

Figure 1, of the drawings in front elevation shows a combination garment embodying my invention, one of the sleeves and part of the shoulder being bent over to the front to show the location of the shoulder seam. Fig. 2, shows the sleeve before it is closed together; and Fig. 3, shows a portion of the upper part of the back.

The garment herein shown as to its general shape resembles the garment shown in United States Patent No. 454,812, heretofore granted to me, and the front and back flaps are substantially the same as described in the said patent, so need not be herein further referred to. The sleeve Ais knitted as ailat web from its shoulder end, it being commenced, let it be so supposed, at a, on the desired number of needles, and the web is then widened to form selvage edges a', a', and then preferably further widened to leave wings a5, a3, and thereafter the sleeve 1s gradually narrowed N0. 491,950, dated February 14, 1893.

Serial No. 442,419. (Specimens.)

leaving selvage edges a5, a6, the sleeve being terminated by a suitable cuff, the edges a5, a6 of the sleeve being united to form the proper tube. The edge a, where the work is set up on the needles, as stated, presents, when run off,'a finished edge which is uniformly straight and will not unravel. Each half of the garment commenced preferably at the bottom of the leg is knitted as a flat web and gradually widened until at about the point h, or where it is desired to begin to furnish additional fullness for the outer hips. At this point, I throw the stitches off from about one-half the needles at one side the series of needles, and then from the point lb widen for a few needles, and inally narrow the fabric to about the point b', using for such purpose a greater or less number of the needles from which the loops were thrown off, as stated, this widening and narrowing operation resulting in the production of ,a double-pointed gore b2. After having completed the gore, referred to, the knitting is continued, let it be for one-half of the front of the garment, and the waist w is knitted, and from above the Waist to the arm scye I preferably again widen the fabric more or less according to the bust measure desired, as `from 2'to 3, stopping the widening, however, at the arm scye and commencing to narrow along one edge, as at 10 Fig. 1, until the fabric along the front has been brought to the desired width to be carried over the shoulder, and the knitting is continued producing a 'fabric of the width required for the shoulder until what is to be the upper end of the front laps over behind the shoulder and onto the back, after which the loops are run off. Now one-half of the back must be knitted, and to do this, the loops which were run off, as stated, at b preparatory to knitting the front, are again picked onto the needles from which they were` removed .when the front was commenced, and knitting is resumed on those needles for the back, and widening and narrowing is effected for the fullness of the hip, andk the waist is knitted and widened above it to the arm scye as described in knitting the front. From the bottom ofthe arm scye for a few courses, say about ten, the back is narrowed and the fabric is then knitted of substantially the same width until it is of suffi- IOO cient length to meet the overlapping front of the fabric at the arm scye seam, and thereafter the fabric is gradually narrowed to give the slope desired from the shoulder to the neck, and the loops are then run oft, leaving a raw edge for the back of the neck, which is subsequently finished in usual manner. The extended part of the front to overlap the shoulder has been marked d', and that portion is joined to the selvage edge c of the back, as fully represented at the left in Figs. l and 3. In this way, the shoulder seam from the arm scye to the neck is laid upon the back of the shoulder as represented, thus obviating the usual top shoulder seam and leaving' the fabric free to stretch and fit the top and front of the shoulder snugly.

The location of the shoulder seam is best shown at the left in Fig. l, it fallingat a point back of the shoulder. The portion a, of the sleeve is sewed to the side edge of the front from the point 6, see Fig. 2, one edge d of the sleeve being also joined to the side of the front, one of the shoulders as a3, being also joined to the front. The other selvage edged portion a of the sleeve and the portion a3 next to it is joined to the back of the fabric.

In my garment none of the edges are cut edges, and all the inclined edges are produced by narrowing and widening processes, hence the seams are all smooth seams when completed by sewing.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new anddesire to secure by Letters Patent, isz- 1. A knitted combination garment, having its front longer than its back and carried over the shoulderand united to an inclined selvagc edged part of the back at the back of the shoulder, substantially as described.

2. A knitted combination garment having its front and back provided each with a se1- vage edge, at the side of the arm scye combined with a sleeve having narrowed or inclined selvage edges d', a', secured to the front and back, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

GERALDINE OBRIEN. lVitnesses:

Gno. W. GREGORY, AUGUSTA E. DEAN.

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