US487801A

US487801A - Dress chart

Info

Publication number: US487801A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1892-12-13
Anticipated expiration: 1909-12-13

Description

(No Model.)

B. VIAU.-

' DRESS CHART. No. 487,801. Patented Dec. 1-3, 18 92.

Jiiest: mania.

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ITED STATES PATENT Orricn.

BENJAMIN VIAU, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

DRESS-CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters latent No. 487,801, dated December 13, 1892.

Application filed May 13, l 892.

To 00% whom, it may concern:

Be it known that I, BENJAMIN VIAU, a citizen of the United States, residing at NewYork, county of New York, State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Dress-Charts, fully described and represented in the following specification and accompanying drawing, forming a part of the the same.

This invention relates to such patterns or charts as are laid upon the dress goods or linings for marking off the shape of the various pieces which form the waist of a dress.

In the present invention, which consists in a pattern for a dress-front, the holes or points which correspond to variations in the longitudinal and circumferential measures are arranged in parallelograms, the holes in the vertical rows corresponding with the length of Waist-measures and the holes in the horizontal rows corresponding with the circumferential measures.

The invention will be understood by reference to the annexed drawing, which represents the face of the pattern.

The various points upon the patterns, which are to be transferred to the goods, are represented by small circles, which designate holes which in practice are formed through the pattern for marking such point upon the goods with a pencil. The points thus marked are then connected by means of lines traced or penciled in any convenient manner, which lines form the boundary or outline of the piece to be cut.

a. is the gage-point, which is first marked upon the goods and'is located marked at the left side of the pattern at the waist-line. The hole representing this gage-point and all the other holes upon the pattern are formed inside the edge a suflicient distance to preserve the strength of the pattern, which is commonly made of pasteboard, and the margin of the pattern is formed upon certain sides with suitable curves to connect the points when marked by applying the edge of the pattern to such points and tracing along such edge. Five gage -points are shown at the Waist-line near the left side of the pattern and are marked, respectively, 20, 24, 27, 31, and 37 to indicate the waist-measure to which they correspond.

Serial No. 432,911. (No model.)

a is a row of holes upon the Waist-line marked upon its upper side with a scale from 2O to 40 for the waist of a polonaise and upon its under side with a scale from 20 to 38 for an ordinary dress-waist.

The holes for length of stay are shown in the parallelogram b at the front of the neck u, the several transverse rows corresponding with the bust-measures from 26 to 43, as marked, and the holes in the vertical rows corresponding with the length of stay,.from eleven to sixteen inches, or measure from the waistline to front of neck.

The holes for shoulder-seam are located in the parallelograms c and d, the transverse rows in the parallelogram 0 corresponding with the neck-measures from 10 to 16, as marked, and those in the parallelogram d corresponding with the bust-measures from 28 to 47, and the holes in the vertical rows of both parallelograms corresponding with the length of stay, as marked, from 12 to 16 upon the transverse lines between the holes. The holes for length of waist under arm are shown in the parallelogram e, where the transverse rows correspond with the bustmeasures from 26 to 47 and the holes in the vertical rows correspond with the measure from the waist to under side of arm, as marked, from six to ten inches. The tops of the darts are indicated in the parallelograms f and f, the transverse holes in the parallelogram f being marked'to correspond with the bust-measures from 30 to 37, and the holes in the vertical rows being selected by taking a measure upon the person from the shoulder-line to the top of dart. The hole for use in the parallelogram f may be selected in correspondence with the similar hole used in the parallelogram d. The holes g give the width of the darts on the waist-line, the lines G representing the shape of the dart when out in the goods.

The holes a and a represent the waist-line of the chart, and it will be seen that the holes in the various parallelograms b, 0, cl, e, and f same to compensate for such variations in the figure.

The right-hand edge of pattern is marked under-arm curve and is made of suitable shape to connect the holes a and -e when marked upon the goods. The edge of the pattern adjacent to the holes dis marked armhole curve and is adapted to connect the holes 01 and c When marked, while the edge of the pattern adjacent to parallelograms b and c is marked neck-curve and is adapted to connect the holes I) and 0 when marked.

In using the pattern it is laid in the proper position upon the goods, the point a is first marked, and the points in the difierent parallelograms are then selected by reference to the measures already taken from the person to be fitted. Such points are marked through the holes upon the goods and are connected by shifting the pattern and applying the proper curve to connect the adjacent holes, using a ruler or straight edge to connect such holes as are connected by straight lines upon the face of the pattern.

Curves B are markedupon the pattern representing the line which would be traced upon the goods connecting certain holes, and curves D and E are similarly marked below the holes at and 6. Lines G and H arein like manner marked to indicate the darts. Lines 0 are shown connecting certain of the holes 0 and d, which represent the line to be drawn upon the goods for a high-shouldered person, and sloping lines 0, connecting other of such holes, representing the line to be drawnfor a person with sloping shoulders.

It is obvious that any hole in any of the parallelograms may be used in conjunction with any hole in any of the other parallelograms, as may be required by the various measures taken from the person to be fitted.

The scales 1? c d eff are all formed with parallelograms of holes, by means of which the goods may be out most perfectly tocompensate for any kind of variation in the figure.

From the above description it will be seen that the pattern is universal in its use for marking the goods to correspond with persons of various forms and sizes, as provision is made in the various parallelograms of holes for all compensations required. Such holes recognize the use of all the circumferential measures, as at the neck, bust, and waist.

The pattern shown in the drawing is for a certain style of dress; but it is obvious that the same means and corresponding arrangements of holes may be adapted to other styles of dress.

I claim- The front-pattern provided with the series of gage-points a and the series of perfora- BENJAMIN VIAU.

Witnesses:

F. RocHoN, THOMAS S. CRANE.