US480453A - Chart for drafting garments - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 1.

S. G. GROW. 01mm: FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

No. 480,453. Patented Aug. 9, 1892.

WIfl (6336-5 icrenfor .54 Wm M- 1/ Z (No Model.) 3 Shets-Sheet 2. S. G. GROW. CHART FOR DRAPTING GARMENTS.

No. 480,453. Patented Aug. 9, 1892.

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(No Model.) 3 sheet -sheet a.

3. G. CROW.

CHART FOR DRAPTING GARMENTS.

No. 480,453. Patented Aug. 9, 1892.

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SAMUEL G.OROW, OF TORONTO, CANADA.

CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 480,453, dated August 9, 1892.

Application fi d December 3, 1891. Serial No. 413,894. (No model.) Patented in Canada September 2, 1891, No. 37.289.

.To all whom it may concern.-

Beit known that I, SAMUEL GILBERT CROW, of the city of Toronto,in the county of York, in the Province of Ontario, Canada, have invented a certain new and Improved Chart for Marking Out Ladies, Misses, and Childrens Garments, (for which I have obtained a Canadian patent, No. 37,289, dated September 2, 1891,) of which the following is a specification.

The object of the invention is to design a chart by which garments of all sizes, whether for children or women, may be laid out, so that when the parts are arranged together a perfect-fitting garment will be produced; and it consists in a plate having the peculiar construction hereinafter more particularly described and then definitely claimed.

Figure 1 is a plan of my improved chart. Figs. 2, 3, 4, and 5 illustrate the method of using the chart.

The drawings show the shape of my plate in which the straight-edge A is marked with what I term a double rule thatis to say, the rule is numbered from both ends, so that the party using it can see the distance from each end. In order to grade the arm-scye for different sizes of garments, I cut the openings B and O, the outer edge abeing for the larger garment, the edge 1) for the next size garment, and the edge d for the smallest size. The lines a extend across from the curved edge eto the inner edge of the opening B, and are marked as shown for the purpose of squaring the arm-scye. The curved edge d in the opening D is for the purpose of marking the shoulder and darts, and the edge marked E is for the purpose of marking the under arm-seam, and the edge marked F is for marking the side form.

The following is a brief description of the method of using the chart:

In laying out the front of a dress to draft the neck-line 0 j (see Fig. 2) take the armscye curve No.1 and place the point 1 on the dot 0, connect with the dot j on the hem-line, and draft from one dot to the other.

To draft the shoulder, place the shouldercurve with the point G on the dot 0 on the seam-line. Let its edge rest on the dot n and draw a line 0 w from the dot 0 to the number on the shoulder-rule, indicating the length of the shoulder.

To draft the arm-scye, use the arm-scye curve, which is divided by the number indicating the arm-scye measurement, and place the line which runs through the number indicating the arm-scye measurement directly on the line i n, and draft the line from the dot to to the corner 1, 2, or 3 on the chart, as the case may be.

To draft the under arm-seam, place the corner H of the under arm-curve at the end m of the arm-scye line and let the edge of this curve rest on the dot r on waist-line, which indicates the width of space from the back to seam and draft the line at 0".

To draft the darts, place the pointed corner G of the dart-curve G J' on the dots to and b and draft down to the dots s t and u o, indicating the width of the darts on the waist-line.

To draft the bust, place the pointed corner of the shoulder-curve at neck-dot j and let the figured edge connect with dot 3 on hemline and draw the curve. Then slide the chart down to dot 3 and connect it with the dot c and draw the curve.

To finish the bottom of basque, draw the curve from the dot c on waist-line to the dot d.

To shape the bottom of basque, draft a line with the outsideof the chart from the dot f to the dot (Z.

In laying out the under arm-gore (see Fig. 3) the line 0 n is drawn with arm-scye curve No. 5. The slightly-curved lines k'p'p' g g Z are drawn with the outside edge of the chart.

In laying out the back, see Fig. l.

To draft the neck, place the arin-scye No. 4 on the dot ac and let it rest on the back line 7" 5 about one-quarter inch down and draw the neck-line t y.

To draft the shoulder, place the shouldercurve with the pointed corner G on the dot y and let it rest on the point z, draw the curve down to the number on the shouldercurve indicating the line of the shoulder plus one-half inch. In-the case illustrated this point corresponds with the point z.

To draft the arm-scye, use arm-scye N0. 4 and draft the curve from the'dot Z to the dot 1.

To draft the side-form seam, use the sideform curve and draft the curve 1 2.

In laying out the side form the line 9 10 is drawn with the arm-scye No. 5. With the under arm-curve draw the under arm-seam 3 10. With the side-form curve draft the sideform seam from 8 to 9. Below the waist finish according to fashion.

In laying out the sleeve with the outside of the chart connect the point 12, 19, and 16 and draw the curve. Take the outside of the chart and draw the curve through the point 16, 20, and 22, keeping the arm-scye No. 5 close to the point 16.

In the drawings I show the under seam superimposed upon the upper; but if working directly on the goods it would of course be necessary to make a separate draft. Place the point of arm-scye No. 1 on the point 18 and draw a curve to point 28, which is the full length of the seam. The curve 27 25 18 is drawn by means of the outside of the chart.

What I claim as my invention 1s- The char-therein described,havingastralghtedge A with a scale thereon and its opposite edge curved and having three openlngs B, O, and D, forming the curved edges a b d d E F, the edges a b d being adapted for gradmg the arm-scye for the difierent sizes of garments, the edge d for marking the shoulder and darts, the edge Efor marking the under armseam, and the edge F for marking the side form, all substantially as shown anddescribed.

Toronto, November 16, 1891. SAMUEL G. CROW.

In presence of DONALD C. RIDOUT, I. EDW. MAYBEE.

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