US459856A - X x x x xx - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

' A. MODOWELL.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN EOE DEAETING TROUSERS.

No. 459,856. Patented Sept. 22, 1891.

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A. M QDOWELL.,

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN D'RiAFTNG! No. 459,856. Paten-tend Sergi@ 22, 1891.

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J2 i .INVENTOR: @www eyww yBy UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ALBERT MCDOWELL, OF NEV YORK, N. Y.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAFTING TROUSERS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 459,856, dated September 22, 1891.

Application iiled May 6,1891. Serial No. 391,844. (No model.)

To a/ZZ whom it may concern,-

Be it known that I, ALBERT MoDoWELL, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of thecity, county, and State of New York, have invented certain Improvements in Adjustable Patterns for Drafting Garments, of which the followingis a specification.

My invention relates to that class of patterns, usually of metal, Which are made of parts adj ustably connected together, whereby the pattern may be set or adjusted to the measures taken and the parts then clamped together. Vhen so set, the cloth or material or paper patterns may be outlined or marked by following the outlines of the adjustable pattern. Such patterns are usually provided with scales whereby the parts may be adjusted.

' The object of my present invention is to provide a pattern of the above character for cutting out trousers from the usual measures taken by the tailor. A pair of trousers is made up in the main of two like or substantially like halves or divisions, each of which consists of a front and back part, which are united at their edges by seams to form the leg portion, seat portion, and waist portion, and I provide an adjustable pattern for the said front part and another for the back part tWo patterns only being required. After the measures have been taken in the usual Way these patterns are set thereto and the parts clamped fast. Itis only necessary then for the tailor or cutter to lay the patterns on the goods and mark the outline of the same on the latter. The goods may then be cutalong the line marked.

In the accompanying drawings, which serve to illustrate tWo embodiments of my invention, Figure l is the part pattern for the front portion of the trousers, and Fig. 2 the part pattern for the back portion thereof. These views show an embodiment of the invention where the lateral expansion and contraction is on both sides of a central baseline. Figs. 3 and 4 are respectively similar views illustrating an embodiment of the invention where thelateral expansion and con- -traction is nearly all at one side of a baseline.

My pattern will usually be made of sheetlnetal, but other materials may be used in its construction. The plates forming the outline Where seams are required may be of the proper Width to allow for the seam. The outer margin, generally speaking, marks the cutting-line.

The several parts or plates of the pattern are connected together in three ways-namely, by rivets or integrally, which for convenience I will characterize by the phrase rigidly connected; by a hinge, rivet, or stud to form a joint or articulation, which I will characterize as hinged, and by slots and rivets or screws, so that the plates are at liberty to slide on each other for purposes of adjustment, Which I Will characterize simply as connected.

Referring to Fig. l, which represents the part pattern for the front portion of the trousers, plates A', A2, A2, and At form the longitudinal base-bar of the pattern, and plates A5, A6, A7, A8, A, A10, A11, and A12 the transverse bars thereof. Plate A2 is connected at its upper end to plate A and at its lower end to plate A2. Plate A3 is connected at its lower end to plate A1. These connected plates form a rigid base-bar, adjustable longitudinally at three points, and these adjustments are independent of each other and of the lateral or transverse adjustments, to be hereinafter described. Plates A5 and A(i are connected together and to the plate A and form the transverse waist-bar. Plates A7 and Ag are connected together and to plate A2 to form the transverse crotch or seat bar. Plates A9 and A10 are connected together and to plate A3 to form the transverse knee-bar, and plates A11 and A12 are connected together and to the plate A4 to form the transverse bottom bar. The above-described connected plates form the skeleton or frame of the pattern, said bars being all extensible lengthwise and provided With scales for setting to measure and clampscrews for securing them when properly set. The adjustment of each transverse bar may be effected independently of that of the others and of the adjustments of the base-bar. The waist-bar and bottom bar also form parts of the outline of the pattern. On the righthand.` side of the pattern, as seen in Fig. l, the plates A13, A14, A14X,A15,A12X and A1 form the outline at the outside seam. Plate A15 is hinged to plate AG at its upper end and connected to plate A14 at its lower end. Plate A14 and plate A1121 are hinged to plate A5, and plate A112( is connected at its lower end to plate A15. Plate A15 and plate A15 are hinged to plate A111, and plate A15 is connected at its lower end to plate A15, and this latter plate is hinged at its lower end to plate A12. On the left-hand side of Fig. l. the platesA17, A15, A12, and A20 form the outline at the iiy on the front, and the plates A21, A21X, A22, and A25 form the outline of the inside seam of the leg. The plate A17 is hinged at its upper end to the plate A5, and at its lower end it is connected to the plate A18. The latter is connected at its lower end to the transverse plate Althrough the medium of a longitudinally-extending slot in the latter. The plates A15 and A20 are curved and connected together, the former being hinged at its upper end to plate A15, and the plate A211 being hinged at its lower end to an outwardly-projecting angle at the upper end of plate A21. This latter plate, which is broad at its upper part, is hinged at its inner angle to the outeren d of the plate A7. The outer edge of plate A21 is curved, and it is connected at its lower end to the plate A215, This latter plate and plate A22 are hinged to the transverse plate A9, and plate A22 is connected at its lower end to plate A25. The plate A25 is hinged at its lower end to the transverse plate A11. This construction perlnits the pattern to be expanded and contracted both laterally and longitudinally.

The pattern may be set to the measures as follows: The connected plates A5 and A1 are adjusted to the measure from the knee to the bottom of the leg by the graduated scale a on plate A4 and the plates are clamped together. The plates A2 and A5 are adjusted to the measure from knee to crotch by the scale a on plate A5 and the plates clamped fast. The plates A and A2 are adjusted to the measure from crotch to Waist by the scale a2 on plate A2 and these plates clamped fast. These measures give the length. The width at the bottom of the leg is obtained by adjusting plates A11 and A12 to the scale a5 on plate A12 and the` plates clamped fast. The plates A9 and A10 are adjusted to the measure at the knee by the scale a1 on plate A11 and the plates clamped fast. The plates A7 and A5 are adjusted to the measure about the hips or seat by the scale a5 and the plates clamped fast, and the plates A5 and A1j are adjusted to the waist-measure by the scale a6 on plate A6 and these plates clamped fast. The plates at the sides of the pattern will adjust themselves automatically. The pattern thus adj usted is ready for use.

In order to effect the required adjustment at both sides of the central longitudinal basebar formed of the plates A to A1, I provide the pattern with four sets of links or spreading devices-one at the waist-bar, one at the crotch-bar, one at the knee-bar, and one at the bottom bar. These devices consist each of a link or lever w, pivoted or hinged at its middle on the central longitudinal bar, and two links w', coupled to the respective ends of the link wat one end and to the respective ends of the transverse bar at their other ends. These sets of links are so clearly illustrated in Fig.l that they will require no further dcscription.

The clamping of the sliding plates together lnay be effected by any suitable clamping devices. I prefer to employ clamping-screws fr, one at each point of adjustment. The numerals of the several scales will of course be marked on the plates forming the pattern; but owing to the small scale of the drawings these numerals have been herein represented as at the sides of the several graduated plates.

Fig. 2 illustrates the part pattern for the back or rear portion of the trousers. This pattern Will be constructed on substantially the same principles as that described. It will have a longitudinal basebar composed of plates B, B2, B5, and B1, and a crotch-bar, knee-bar, and bottom bar composed, respectively, of connected plates B1, B5, B, B111, B11, and B12. The plates B2, B5, and B1 will be provided, respectively, with scales h2, Z1', and b, and the plates B5, B111, and B12 Will be provided, respectively, with scales 115, b1, and b5. The crotch-bar, knee-bar, and bottom bar will each be provided with a spreading device consisting of a lever 1U and links w', like the corresponding devices shown in Fig. l and hereinbefore described. The plates at the right- ICG hand side of Fig. 2 and which correspond to the l outside seam of the leg-namely, B15, B152, B14, B15, B155, and B15-will be joined or coupled in the samemanner as the corresponding plates in Fig. I. Plate B15X mayhave aconvex contour aty just below the knee, and plate B1 will have a salient contour at the bottom y. The plates at the left-hand side of Fig. 2 from the crotch down and corresponding to the inside seam of theleg-namely, B21, B21", B22, and B25- will be joined or coupled in t-he samemanner as the corresponding parts in Fig. 1. Plate B22 may have a convex contour at-y just below the knee, and plate B25 will have-a salient contour at the bottom y. The wideningot` the pattern at the bottom is to impart the spring to the bottom of the leg of the trousers. Above the crotch bar this pattern differs somewhat in construction from that seen in Fig. l. The plate B5 is rigidly connected to the plate B and is arranged at right angles thereto. The plate B1l is connected to the plate B5 and hinged to the upper end of the plate B15. There is no scale on plate B1". The plate B17 is connected to the prolonged extreniityof plate B5,Which it crosses, the plate B5 being slotted at the connecting-point and provided with a scale b5. The plate B18 is connected to the lower end of plate B11, and at its lower end it is connected to plate B1 in the same manner that plate A15, Fig. l, is connected'to plate A5. The curved plates B1 and B20 IIC are arranged in the same way as the corresponding plates A19 and A20in Fig. 1. Above the plate B5is an inclined waist-bar composed of plates B and BXX. The plate BX is hinged to the plate B13 at the same point at which the plate B6 is hinged thereto. The plate B is connected to the plate BX, and at its other end it is connected to the upper' part of the plate B17 above the plate B5. The plate B17 has in it a longitudinal slot, and a clampscrew on the plate BXX plays in this slot.

In setting this pattern to the measures the longitudinal bar is set to the measuresv for length from waist to crotch, crotch to knee, and -knee to bottom, as before described with reference to Fig. 1, and transverse crotch-bar, knee-bar, and bottom-bar are also set to the respective measures, as set forth in the description of Fig. 1. The pattern is set to the waist-measure by the scale ZJXX on the plate BXX, and the slope of the inclined bar is attained through the medium ot' the scale Z917 on plate B17.

It will be seen that my pattern is composed of two separate but interdependent parts, each provided with scales, whereby the pattern may be set to the measures taken by the tailor, and that each part is divided longitudinally from the crotch down into two extensible sections,

whereby the pattern may be set o1' adjusted to the measure from crotch to knee and from knee to bottom. It is also laterally eXtensible, so that it may be set or adjusted at the three points-namely, the crotch, knee, and bottom--to the measures taken at these points. At the crotch a scale is provided for what is called the body-depth. In Fig. 1 this scale a7 is seen on plate A7, the lower end of plate A1S being set to this scale, and in Fig. 2 this scale t7 is seen on plate B7.

It is desirable to provide the pattern with two sets of scales, one adapted for use with the ordinary or actual measures taken by the tailor, as already described, and the other being proportional scales for cutting out readymade trousers to be kept in stock. For example, if the seat-measure be taken as the standard for proportion, and this measure in a particular case be thirty-six inches, then all the proportional scales on the pattern will be set at the numeral 3b', in order to cut a garment having the desired proportion. In Fig. 1 these proportional scales are indicated, respectively, by the letters c, e', e2, e3, e1, and c, and in Fig. 2 they are indicated,respectively, by the letters g, g', g2, g3, g4, g, gXX, and Q17. There will be two scales on the crotch-bar by preference, one for the seat or hip measure, marked a5 in Fig. 1 and h5 in Fig. 2, and the other for the hip-measure, marked @5X in Fig. 1 and 55X in Fig. 2. This will enable the tailor to set his pattern by either of these measures, as he may desire.

The construction of the pattern, as illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4, differs from that already described in having the longitudinal base-bar arranged at one side or edge instead of in the middle and in having the lateral adjustments nearly all at one side of said bar. Then the equalizing devices seen in Figs. 1 and 2 are dispensed with.

Fig. 3 is a part pattern for the front portion of the trousers and corresponds to the pattern seen in Fig. 1. At the left-hand side is a marginal base-bar corresponding to the iiy and the inside seam of the leg and comprising the plates C17, C18, C19, C20, 020x, C21, C22, and C23. The transverse loars are formed of the following-named plates: The waist-bar of plates C5 and C6, the seat-bar of plates C7 and CS, the knee-bar of plates C9 and C10, and the bottom bar of plates C11 and C12. The plate C17 is rigidly secured to the plate C5 at its upper end, and is connected at its other end to the plateC1S. This latter plate is rigidly secured to the plate C7 at its lower end. The plate C21 is rigidly secured at its upper end to the plate C7, and is connected at its lower end to the plate C22. The plate C22 is rigidly secured to the plate C, and is connected at its lower end to plate C23, which latter plate is rigidly secured to the plate C11 of the bottom bar. The curved plates C11 and C20 are connected together, and the plate C19 is hinged to the plate C18 at its upper end. At its lower end the plate 0201s connected to aslotted prolongation on the plate C7. The plate 020x is also curved. It is connected to the plate C7 at the same point with plate C211, and is connected through the medium of a slot in its lower end with the plate C21. Of the transverse bars the two plates of which each bar is composed are connected together. The contour of the pattern at the right-hand side in Fig. 3, which corresponds to the outside seam of the trousers, consists of the connected plates C13, 013x, C11, 011x, C15,'and C17. Plate C13 is hinged to plate C1", plates 013x and C11 are hinged to plate CS, plates 014x and C15 are hinged to plate C10, and pla-te C11 is hinged to plate C12. The ordinary or actual measures ot' length are set on the scales c, c', and c2 on the respective plates C2?, C22, and C18, and the transverse measures are set on the scales c3, c4, c5, and c6 on the respective plates C12, C10, CS, and CG. The measure of body-depth at the crotch is set on the scale c7 on plate C7, along which the clamp-screw x, which connects the plates C20 and 020xthereto, may be moved. On this pattern h, h', h2, h3, h4, h6, and k7 are the proportional scales before referred to in describing the patterns illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2.

Fig. 4t is the part pattern of the back portion of the trousers, said pattern corresponding to the pattern illustrated in Fig. 2, except that as in Fig. 3 the lateral expansion and IOO VIIS

contraction is nearly all at one side and not o. Consequently only a brief description will be needed. The longitudinal measurements are set on the base-bar, comprising the plates D1 and D'1 above the crotch-bar and the plates D21, D22, and D22below said bar. These plates constitute the longitudinal base-bar. The transverse bars are composed of the plates DX DXX D53 De, D77 D8, D9 Die, D11, and D12 Plate D3 is rigidly connected to plate D5 and connected to the plate D1, and this latter plate is rigidly connected at its lower end to plate D7. Plate D21 is rigidly connected to plate D7 and connected to plate D22. Plate D22 is rigidly connected to plate D9 and connected at its lower end to plate D23. This latter plate is rigidly connected to plate D11. The waistbar comprises the connected plates D5and D11, the crotch-bar of the connected plates D7 and D2, the knee-bar of the connected plates D1 and D111, and the bottom har of the connected plates D11 and D12. The inclined bar above the waist-bar is composed of the connected plates DX and Dm. Plates D, D, D8, D111, and D12 are hinged to the respective connected plates D12, D12, D11, D11", D11, and D111, which form the outline at the outside seam of the trousers. The actual or ordinary measures are set on the scale d, d', cl2, (Z3, d1, (Z5, d, d1, (111, and (lx, and the proportional measures may be set on the scale fr', fi', i2, t2, i1, 11, i7, 11, and ix. The thigh-measure may be set on the scale d5* on the crotch-bar plate DS. The connected plates D1T and D18 are arranged the same as the corresponding plates in Fig. 2, and the curved plates D12, D211, and D211* are arranged the same as the corresponding plates in Fig. 3.

The pairs of curved plates A19 A20 in Fig. l, B12 B211 in Fig. 2, C11' C211 in Fig. 3, and D111 D21 in Fig. 4 perform the same function in all of these part patterns, and this function is to regulate the depth of the body. Consequently the pair of plates is made adjustable at one end or the other toward and from the longitudinal base-bar or the axis of the part pattern. In Figs. l and 2, for example, the pairof curved plates is adjustable at its upper end by the shifting of the plates A18 and B12, while in Fig. 3 it is adjustable at its lower end along the slot in the transverse plate C", the curved plate C211 being shifted simultaneously therewith.

By reason of the improvements herein described a pattern is provided which will hold its form or maintain its generalcontour when unclamped and Will at the same time allow of the necessary expansion or contraction in every direction and to the extent required for ordinary use. Vhen set and clampedit will be rigid and afford a complete outline pattern, about which the tailor or fitter' may run his chalk with perfect ease and with assurance of its correctness.

I do not wish to limit myself to the precise construction herein shown, as this may be varied to some extent Without departing materially from my invention.

The plates of which the pattern is coinposed may be of convenient width andof any suitable material.

The adjustable pattern is designed especially for use in drafting trousers and garments of a similar character, such as drawers, overalls, tbc., and in drafting paper patterns for such garments.

Having thus described my invention, I claiml. A part pattern for drafting trousers and similar garments, composed of connected plates which slide on each other at the points of adjustment, and consisting of a centrallyarranged, longitudinally-extensible, and rigid base-bar having three independently-extensible points of adjustment and scales at these points, transverse independently extensible bars at the Waist, crotch, knee, and bottom crossing and connected with said base-bar and each having a scale for setting it to measure, the outline'or marginal plates and spreaders, one at each of said transverse bars, each spreader consisting ot' a lever pivotally attached at its middle to the base-bar, and links which couple the respective ends of said lever with the ends of the base-bar, as set forth.

2. The part pattern for drafting the front of the trousers, composed of connected plates which slide upon each other at the several points of adjustment, and consisting of the longitudinally-extensible base-bar, the extensible transverse bars which cross the basebar and are connected therewith, the series of plates A21, A21X, A22, and A23, forming the outline for the inside seam, said series of plates being connected to the transverse bars, and the plates A11, A111, A1, and A20, forming the outline of the fly, said plates A11 and A113 being connected together, the former hinged to the waist-bar and the latter having a sliding connection with the crotch-bar, and the curved plates A11 and A20 being connected together, the former hinged to the plate A18 and the latter to the outline plate A21, as set forth.

3. In an adjustable part pattern for drafting the front of the trousers, the combination of the several plates connected together and arranged in the manner following, namely: the plates A', A2, A3, and A1, which form the base-bar and slide on each other at the points of adjustment, the plates A5 and A, which form the transverse waist-bar and slide on each other, the plates A7 and A8, which forni the transverse crotch-bar and slide on each other, the plates A11 and A10, which form the transverse knee-bar and slide on each other, the plates A11 and A12, which form the transverse bottom bar and slide on each other, the plates A13, A11, AMX, A15, A15X, and A111, forming the outline at the outside seam, said plates sliding on each other Where connected, and the series of plates hinged to the ends of the transverse bars, the plates A17 and A12, connected together and sliding on each other,

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the plate A17 being hinged to the plate A5 and the plate A18 connected to the plate A7, the curved plates A19 and A29, connected and sliding on each other, the plate A19 being hinged to the plate A18 and the plate A29 hinged to the plate A21, and the plates A21, A2121, A22, and A23, Which forni the outline at the inside seam, connected and sliding on each other, said series ot plates beinghinged to the transverse bars, substantially as set forth.

e. In an adjustable part pattern for the front ot the trousers, the combination, With the transverse slotted plate A7, provided with a scale a7, the eXteriorly-curved plate A21, the transverse plate A5, and the plates A17 and A12, connected together, the formerhinged to plate A5 and the latter connected to plate A7 at the said scale, of the connected curved plates A19 and A29, hinged at one end to plate A18 and at the other end to plate A21, said plates sliding upon each other Where connected, substantially as set forth.

5. In an adjustable part pattern for the back of the trousers, the combination of the connected plates B2 and BXX, forming the inclin ed bar above the Waist and sliding on each other, and the plates B17 and B111, forming the outline for the back seam and also sliding on' each other, the inclined bar having a slotted connection with said plate B17, substantially as set forth.

6. In an adjustable part pattern for the back of the trousers, the combination of the connected plates B7 and B2, forming the extensible transverse crotch bar, the connected plates B5 and B9, forming the extensible transverse Waist-bar, the connected plates B and B2, which unite the said Waist-bar and the crotch-bar and form an extensible base-bar provided with a scale b2, the connected outline-plates B13 and B15X, of which the former is hinged to the Waist-bar and the latter to the crotch-bar, the connected outline-plates B17 and B19, of Which the former has a slotted connection with the plate B5 and the latter a like connection With the plate B7, the connected plates B and BXX, of which the former is hinged to the plate B13 and the latter has a slotted connection with the plate B17, the connected curved plates B19 and B29, of which the former is hinged to the plate B18 and the latter to plate B21, and said plate B21, the adjustments being independent and the plates sliding upon each other Where connected.

7. An adjustable part pattern for drafting trousers, composed ot connected plates, which slide upon cach other at the several points of adjustment and having a pair of curved plates connected and sliding upon each other, which plates form the outline at the crotch, said pair of connected plates being adjustable toward and from the longitudinal axis of the pattern at one extremity independently of the other adjustments of the pattern, for

' the purpose of varying the depth of the body,

as set forth.

8. In an adjustable part pattern for drafting the back of the trousers, the combination of the several plates connected together and arranged in the manner following, namely: the plates B', B2, B2, and B1, which form the base-bar and slide on each other at the points of adjustment, the plates B5 and B9, which form the transverse Waist-bar and slide on each other, the plates B7 and B2, which form the transverse crotch-bar and slide onl each other, the plates B9 and B19, which form the transverse knee-bar and slide on each other, the plates B11 and B12, Whichform the transverse bottom bar and slide on each other, the plates B12, B125, B11, B15, B15X, and B19, forming the outline at the outside seam, said plates sliding on each other Where connected and the series of plates hinged to the ends of the transverse bars, the plates B17 and B12, connected and sliding on each other, the plate B17 having a slotted connection with plate B5 and the plate B18 having a slotted connection with plate B7, the plates BX and BXX, connected and sliding on each other, the former hinged to plate B9 and the latter having a slotted connection With plate B17, the curved plates B19 and B29, connected and sliding on each other, the former hinged to plate B12 and the latter hinged to plate B21, and the plates B21, B21X, B22, and B22, forming the outline at the inside seam, said plates being connected and sliding on each other Where connected, and the series of plates being hinged to the transverse bars, substantially as set forth.

In Witness WhereotI I have hereunto signed my name in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

ALBERT MCDOVELL.

lVitnesses:

HENRY CoNNETT, CHAS. A. WALSH.

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