US389376A - Chart for drafting sleeves of garments - Google Patents

Description

2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

(No Model.)

E. P. EOLLETT.

CHART FOR DEAPTING SLEEVES 0E GARMENTS.

No. 389,876. Patented Sept. 11, 1888.

lx itw @9942 0 J2. 5 4 6 HM? (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

E. P. FOLLETT.

CHART FOR DRAPTING SLBE VES 0F GARMENTS.

No. 389,376. Patented Sept. 11, 1888 q vitwaooea, gvwewboz,

Edward fif'ollet;

@311 M fitter-M2130 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ED\VARD P. FOLLETT, OF ROCHESTER, ASSIGNOR TO DANIEL V. EDGEOOMB,

OF WVHITESTONE, NEW YORK.

CHART FOR DRAFTlNG SLEEVES OF GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 389.376, dated September 11, 1888.

Application filed June 22, 1886. Serial No. 205,857.

To all whom, it may concern:

Be it known that I, EDWARD P. FOLLETT, a citizen of the United States, residing in Rochester, in the county of Monroe and State of New York,haveinven ted certain new and useful Improvements in Charts for Drafting Sleeves of Garments, of which the following is a specification.

The object of my invention is to provide a chart whereby the sleeves of garments may be "drafted easily and rapidily, which maybe learned without difficulty,and whereby sleeves may be out uniform in style and perfect in fit.

In the accompanying drawings, which illustrate my invention, Figures 1 and 2 are two charts or templets from which the sleeve is drafted, and Figs. 3 and 4. are the two portions ofa sleeve which have been drafted by means of the charts.

The plates A and B may be conveniently made from strong cardboard or any other simi lar suitable material, and they have the marks and holes which indicate the various dimensions of sleeves within all ordinary limits. The plate A is intended to draft the sleeve of the proper shape and diameter and for nearly its whole length, while the plate B is intended to give the proper shape and size to the upper end of the sleeve where it joins the body of the garment. The twoplates combined give the full length of the sleeve.

The sleeve is drafted in two parts or portions, one portion, 0, Fig. 3, being that which extends along the under side of the arm, and the other portion, D, Fig. 4, is for the upper side of the arm.

The plate A has two sets of indicating-holes, one set being above the letters m m at each end and the other set closer together and below the letters mm at each end. The upperset of holes are for drafting the upper side of the sleeve and the lower for drafting the under portion thereof. The plate B has also two sets of holes and lines, one for drafting the upper portion of the sleeve and one for drafting the lower portion. For drafting thelower portion ofthe sleeve, the lines, figures, and holes between the letters y y are used in combination with the sin gle hole at the letter J. All the other indicating marks and holes of the plate B are in- No model.)

tended for drafting the upper portion of the sleeve.

There are four measures required to draft a sleeve by this system, namely: First, length of under side of the sleeve; second, around 5 the arm close to the shoulder; third, around the arm at the elbow; fourth, around the hand.

The line of holes across the plate A from a to a is approximately at the place of the elhow.

To use the chart the following directions are all that are necessary: Let us suppose that the four measures named above are respectively sixteen, eleven, ten, and eight inches. The plate A should be placed upon the material 6 from which the pattern is to be cut and a line drawn along the lower edge of the plate from the end of the line marked 16 near one end to the end of the line marked 16 near the other end. This indicates the length of the under side of the sleeve according to the first of the above measurements. Following now the line 16 at the right hand along on the plate upward until it meets the line 11 of the first se ries of holes, a mark should be made through 7 the hole at that point. This indicates the circumference of the sleeve at the upper part according to the second of the above measurements. At the point 10 along the line of holes marking the elbow a mark should also be made, and this indicates the size of the sleeve at the elbow according to the third of the above measurements. At the left-hand end of the chart, following the line 16 upward until it strikes the line marked 8, a mark should be made through the hole, and this indicates the size around the hand according to the fourth of the above measurements. The plate A may then be taken up and a line drawn between the points I) and 0 at the left-hand end of the 0 sleeve. At the right-hand end of the sleeve a line may also be drawn between the points (1 and c, and with the lower edge of the plate a line may then be drawn between 0 and e. The plate B should now be taken and the point I 5 upon it should be placed at the point cl upon the figure 0, when a line of the series between y marked 1l,will be found at the point e. A mark should then be made through the hole at the poiutJ, and another at the hole in the series 15 at that point.

K, which is at the right-hand end of the above line marked 11. The plate may then be withdrawn and the lower line continued from d to f and from 6 to g, and a curved line also drawn from f to y, when the lower portion of the sleeve is completed. To draft the upper portion of the sleeve, the plate Ais laid upon the material as before, and a line drawn from the end of the line 16 at one end to the end of the 10 line 16 at the other end along the under side 20 plate may then be removed and the points h and z joined. Similarly the pointsj and k are joined, and by means of the upper edge of A a curved line from i to k is made. The chart B is now taken, and the two lines marked 11 2 of the series M and N will be found to meet the pointsj and k. Marks may then be made upon the material at all the holes around the curved line 11. The plate is then removed. The points 7c and l arejoined, also the pointsj and m, and a curved line drawn through the series of marks from Z to m. This completes the upper part of the sleeve, and when the two are joined in the usual manner a perfect fitting The advantages of having sleeve is obtained.

these two templets instead of one for drafting elbow and short from the elbow to the wrist,

and vice versa. When sleeves are drafted from a chart in a single templet, this difference is not provided for. All sleeves are alike by it, and two arms of the same length, but differing as above described, would not be equally fitted.

By using the two templets and by measuring as described, the elbow of each person comes in the proper place in the sleeve, and all arms are equally fitted.

I claim as my invention- A transversely-divided sleeve-drafting chart comprising the templets A and B, the former having indicating devices, as described, for drafting the upper and under portions of a sleeve from the wrist to a point between the shoulder and the elbow, and the latter having the indicating devices for drafting the sleeve from said point to the shoulder.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto subscribed my name this 25th day of May, A. D. 1886.

EDWARD P. FOLLETT.

\Vitnesses:

CHARLES A. TERRY, CAROLINE E. DAVIDSON.

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