US3800034A

US3800034A - Method for preparing pressed powder makeup sticks and product produced

Info

Publication number: US3800034A
Application number: US00102202A
Authority: US
Inventors: C Kircher; R Kole
Original assignee: KOLMAN LABOR Inc
Current assignee: KOLMAN LABOR Inc; KOLMAN LABOR INC US
Priority date: 1970-12-28
Filing date: 1970-12-28
Publication date: 1974-03-26
Anticipated expiration: 1991-03-26

Abstract

A cosmetic makeup composition in the form of a dry pressed powder stick. The dry composition is composed of finely divided, generally inert materials, including 40 percent to 90 percent by weight of chalk, colorants, and a binder. To prepare the composition, the finely divided material and colorants are mixed with an aqueous solution of the binder to provide a granulated mixture. After thoroughly mixing, the mixture is preferably extruded into stick form and dried to evaporate the water. The stick is dried at a slow rate, causing a migration of the binder toward the outer surface of the stick so that the outer surface has a higher content of binder than the central portion of the stick. The resulting dry powder stick has a high cohesive strength and improved ''''pay-off'''' when applied to the skin.

Description

United States Patent 91 Kircher et al.

[451 Mar. 26, 1974 METHOD FOR PREPARING PRESSED POWDER MAKEUP STICKS AND PRODUCT PRODUCED [75] Inventors: Charles R. Kircher, Milwaukee,

Wis.; Richard L. Kole, Port Jervis, NY.

[73] Assignee: -Kolman Laboratories, Inc., Port Jervis, NY.

221 Filed: Dec. 28, 1970 21 Appl. No.: 102,202

Related U.S. Application Data [63] Continuation-impart of Ser. No. 785,371, Dec. 19, I968, abandoned.

[52] U.S. Cl 424/63, 424/64, 424/69,

424/DIG. 5 [51] Int. Cl A61k 7/02 [58] Field of Search 424/63, DIG. 5, 69

[5 6] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS l/l928 Helfrich 424/63 3,196,079 7/1965 Blaustein 424/63 3,296,078 l/l967 Kaye et al 424/63 FOREIGN PATENTS OR APPLICATIONS 829,367 3/1938 France 424/63 OTHER PUBLICATIONS Chemical Abstracts, Vol. 51, Item l8485h, 1957.

Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, pp.

246-247, 255-261, 484-485, lnterscience Publishers,

Inc., N.Y., 1957.

Primary Examiner-Sam Rosen Assistant Examiner-Anna P. Fagelson [5 7] ABSTRACT A cosmetic makeup composition in the form of a dry pressed powder stick.v The dry composition is composed of finely divided, generally inert materials, including 40 percent to 90 percent by weight of chalk,

colorants, and a binder. To prepare the composition,

7 Claims, No Drawings METHOD FOR PREPARING PRESSED POWDER MAKEUP STICKS AND PRODUCT PRODUCED BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION This application is a continuation-in-part of application Ser. No. 785,371, filed Dec. 19, 1968 now abandoned.

This invention relates to a cosmetic makeup composition and more particularly to a makeup composition in the form of a dry, pressed powder stick.

In the past eye shadows have generally taken the form of grease sticks, creams or pressed powder cakes. Grease sticks, having a grease or oil base are messy to use and smear easily on the skin, while creams have the disadvantage that they must be applied with the finger and also tend to smear easily. While eye shadows in the form of pressed powder cakes are not as messy to apply as grease sticks or creams, the pressed powder cake cannot be applied directly to the skin but requires application with a brush, puff, or other applicator. The reason that the common pressed powder cake formulation cannot be applied directly to the skin is lack of adequate pay-off. The skin is relatively smooth and is often oily due to natural oils or a previously applied cosmetic base. Thus the normal pressed powder cake formulation, if applied to the skin, will absorb moisture and oil and quickly glaze over with the result that there is an inadequate pay-off of the powder on the skin. Because of this, applicators are used with pressed powder cakes, and by use of the applicator, which is more abrasive than human skin, the powder can be removed and then transferred from the applicator to the skin. Therefore, in the past, eye shadows have not been employed in the form of pressed powder sticks due to the lack of strength in the dry stick as well as inadequate pay-of on the skin.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention'is directed to a pressed powder I cosmetic makeup stick having improved pay-off and minimum drag or pull on the skin, as well as an improved cosmetic feel. The composition includes a substantial portion of chalk along with colorants, pow-.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT The dry cosmetic makeup composition in general has the following formulation in weight percent:

Chalk 40 to 90% Colorants Up to 20% Binder 0.10 to 5% Finely divided inert materials Balance The preferred range of composition of the pressed powder stick in weight percent is as follows:

Chalk 45 to 70% Colorants S to 15% Binder 0.15 to 2% Finely divided inert materials Balance The high concentration of chalk (calcium carbonate) is important in the formulation, for the physical nature of the chalk particles acts to improve the strength of the stick, as well as controlling the absorbency of the stick so that there is less likelihood of the stick absorbing moisture and oil from the skin, and thus the tendency of the stick to glaze-over is reduced and the pay-off on the skin is improved.

The powdered or finely divided material to be used in the composition takes the form of conventional pow-' ders used in cosmetic products, such as magnesium carbonate; clays such as bentonite, kaolin and china clay; metal stearates such as zinc, aluminum, magnesium, potassium and lithium stearate; titanium dioxide; zinc oxide, talc; starches; starch derivatives; and the like.

The binder which serves to bind the powdered materials together and provides the necessary strength for. the stick is selected fromnatural or-synthetic materials, such as gum tragacanth; gum arabic; gum acacia; carboxymethyl cellulose; sodium carboxymethyl cellulose; methyl cellulose; ethyl cellulose; gelatin; lignin; polyvinyl pyrrolidone; polyvinyl acetate; complex magnesium aluminum silicate (sold under the name of Veegum by the R. T. Vanderbilt Company), carboxy vinyl polymer (sold under the name of Carbopol by B. G. Goodrich Chemical Company), and the like.

The colorantsare those commonly used in cosmetic products and may take the form of inorganic pigments such as iron oxide, titanium dioxide; yellow ochre, red iron oxide; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide green; iron black; and lamp black. When the composition is to be used on the skin in locations other than in the area of the eyes organic pigments such as D & C Red Nos. 9, l9, 10, 11 and 12; and D & C yellow No.5, may also be used. In addition, natural and synthetic pearlescent materials can also be employed with or without other colorants. The titanium dioxide can provide a dual function in that it serves as a constituent of the powder base, as well as providing opaque characteristics for a colored stick, while in the case of a white stick, it serves as the primary colorant.

In some instances, it may also be desirable to incorporate a lubricant in the composition which aids in extruding, or otherwise forming, the composition into stick form, as well as improving the adherence and application of the composition to the skin. The lubricant can be employed in an amount from 0.1 percent to 7.5 percent by weight of the dry composition, and may take the form of metal stearates, such as zinc, aluminum, magnesium, potassium, or lithium stearate; liquid paraffin; fatty alcohols such as cetyl or stearyl; fatty acids such as stearic and palmitic; soap powder; vegetable and hydrogenated oils; and the like. In the formulation the metal stearates function not only as a lubricant but also as a constitutent of the powder base. The use of a lubricant is important when the mixture is extruded into stick form, for the dry materials, and particularly chalk, are highly abrasive and the incorporation of a lubricant facilitates the extrusion operation.

Preservatives or bactericides can also be incorporated in the composition in an amount up to 2 percent truded with the particular amount depending on the preservative employed. Examples of preservatives which are commonly used in cosmetic products and can be included in the composition of the invention are hydroxy benzoate esters; hexachlorophene, dichlorophene; and the like.

Furthermore, perfumes in an amount up to 1.5 percent can also be used in the composition.

It is preferred to form the composition into stick form by an extrusion process, wherein the dry materials are mixed with a liquid carrier and the mixture is then exinto the form of a continuous stick or rod. Water is preferred as the carrier but other evaporable liquids can be substituted. The particular carrier used is not critical, for in forming the dry stick the carrier is evaporated and is not present in the final product. In order to provide a mixture having the proper characteristics to be extruded it is important that the amount of water be maintained within certain limits. Sufficient water should be used to granulate the dry ingredients, and the specific amount of water to be employed for extrusion depends on the absorption characteristics of the dry ingredients, but generally, the water will comprise from percent to 35 percent by weight of the total weight of the water and dry ingredients The term granulate refers to the physical state of the mixture in which the individual particles or grains of the dry materials are combined in the form of relatively uniformly sized agglomerates or balls which are moist to the touch. ltv has been found that the granulated form is necessary to a commercially successful extrusion operation, for in this physical state the highly abrasive materials can be extruded and yet the extruded stick or rod will retain its shape without crumbling or cracking. Lesser amounts of water, in the range of 8 percent to 13 percent by weight of the total weight of the water and dry ingredients, are used in the event the stick is formed by pressing or molding operations rather than extrusion.

In the preferred method of forming the dry powder stick, the dry ingredients are initially mixed together and-subsequently an aqueous binder solution is thoroughly mixed with the dry materials. Afterthe solution is thoroughly mixed with the dry materials to form a granulated mixture, the mixture is extrudedinto the form of a continuous rod. The rod is cut to form sticks of desired length, and the sticks are then dried to evaporate the water or other carrier, and subsequently packaged.

It is important that the extruded stick be dried slowly to equilibrium conditions with the atmosphere. While the drying rate is dependent on a number of factors such as the cross sectional area of the stick, and the relative humidity and temperature of the drying medium, it has been found that the stick should be dried to equilibrium conditions with the atmosphere in a period of not less than 12 hours. During this slow drying operation, the binder tends to migrate toward the outer surface of the stick so that the binder content progressively increases from the center of the stick to the outer surface. Faster drying rates inhibit this binder migration. The increased binder content on the outer surface produces a harder, high strength outer skin, while the decreased binder content in the center portion results in a softer core having better pay-off. This structure has decided advantages for a cosmetic makeup stick, for the higher strength outer skin provides a cohesive protective shield permitting the stick to be applied directly to the skin without cracking or fracturing, and the softer core enables the powder to pay-off readily on the skin, so that the composition can be applied to delicate areas of the skin such as the eyelids without undue pressure. Moreover, the stick, when applied to the skin, exerts a minimum drag or pull and has a definite cosmetic feel. The stick has controlled absorbtion characteristics so that moisture and oils from the skin are less likely to be absorbed, thereby decreasing the tendency for the stick to become glazed-over during use.

The pressed powder stick provides a matte, nongreasy finish on the skin which will not smear as do greases and creams. Furthermore, as the makeup composition is in stick form, it can be applied directly to the skin without the need of brushes and without soiling the fingers.

While the stick has particular application as an eye shadow, it can also be employed as a face makeup, an eyebrow makeup or a hair tint.

Specific examples of the preparation of dry powdered stick of the invention are as follows;

EXAMPLE NO. 1

Eye Shadow The following materials were mixed together in parts by weight:

Corn Starch 2.0 Kaolin 5.0 Talc 20.0 Chalk 43.0 Titanium dioxide 20.0 Ultramarine blue 10.0

parts of the dry mixture were mixed with 24.55 parts of water and 0.45 parts of Veegum as a binder. After thoroughly mixing the ingredients, the resulting granulated mixture was extruded into a continuous rod which was cut at intervals to provide sticks having a blue color. After drying for 24 hours at room temperature, the sticks were packaged.

EXAMPLE NO. 2

Eye Shadow A dry mixture was formed by mixing the following ingredients in parts by weight:

Starch 2.0 Kaolin 5.0 Talc 20.0 Chalk 43.0 Titanium dioxide 5.0 Chromium oxide green 15.0

78.20 parts of the dry mixture were then mixed with 21 .30 parts of water and 0.50parts of Veegum. After thoroughly mixing, the resultant granulated mixture was extruded into a continuous rod. The rod was subsequently cut into sticks having a green color. After drying for 24 hours the sticks were packaged.

EXAMPLE NO. 3

Eye Shadow A dry mixture was prepared by mixing the following ingredients in parts by weight:

Kaolin 5. Talc 39. Chalk 40. Titanium dioxide 5. Brown iron oxide 10. Lamp black 1.

were packaged.

EXAMPLE NO. 4

Face Makeup The following ingredients were mixed together in parts by weight:

Calcium carbonate 55.00 Talc 26.50 Titanium dioxide 8.00 Corn starch 2.25 Kaolin 5.50 Zinc stearate 2.50 Para hydroxy benzoate 0.25

esters Yellow ochre 1.00 Red iron oxide 0.75 Brown iron oxide 0.10

EXAMPLE o. 5

Face Makeup v The following ingredients were mixed together in 0 parts by weight to provide a dry mixture:-

Calcium carbonate 61.80 Titanium dioxide 12.00 Kaolin 6.00 Magnesium stearate 5.00 Talc 15.00 Hexachlorophene 0.20 D&CRed No. 19 0.10 D & C Red No. 12 0.50 D & C Red No. 2.00

60 parts by weight of the mixture was then mixed with 40 parts by weight of a binder solution consisting of a 1% aqueous solution of carboxymethyl cellulose. After thoroughly mixing the binder solution with the dry materials, the resulting mixture was extruded into rod form, cut into sticks, dried and packaged.

EXAMPLE NO. 6

Eye Shadow A dry mixture was prepared in accordance with the formulation of Example No. 2. 89 parts of the dry mixture were then mixed with 10 parts of water and 1 part of Veegum. After thoroughly mixing the mixture was molded into a series of sticks. The sticks were then dried and packaged.

Various modes of carrying out the invention are contemplated as being within the scope of the following claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the subject matter which is regarded as the invention.

We claim:

1. A method of forming a dry pressed powder cosmetic makeup stick, comprising the steps of mixing a dry finely divided composition with a liquid carrier to provide a mixture, said dry composition comprising from 40% to 90% by weight of chalk, cosmetically effective amount of colorants up to about 20 percent by weight, from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight of a cosmeticpowder binder, and the balance being dry powdered cosmetically compatible materials, forming the mixture into a stick, and drying the stick to evaporate the carrier at a rate such that the moisture content of the stick reaches equilibrium with the moisture content of the atmosphere, said drying rate being sufficiently slow to cause a migration of the binder toward the outer surface of the stick, so that the outer surface of the stick has a higher content of binder than the central portion of said stick.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein said liquid carrier is water.

3. The method of claim 2, wherein the water is present in an amount of 20% to 35% by weight of the total weight of the dry composition and the water, said mixture being formed into stick form by extrusion.

4. The method of claim 3, wherein said composition further includes from 0.1% to 7.5% of a lubricant.

5. The method of claim 1, wherein said binder is a mixture of gum tragacanth and carboxymethyl cellulose.

6. The method of claim 1, wherein said dry composition includes titanium dioxide, said titanium dioxide functioning as a portion of said finely divided material as well as a colorant.

7. The dry pressed powder cosmetic makeup stick prepared by the method of claim 1.

, UNITE}? T'SS PAEENT oFFIcE (IERFZIFHZSITE C(J RRECTIQN Patent NO, 3 Dated 1:11;:11Vfarph I 1 Inventor(S) CHARLES R. KIRCHER and RIZF- mo L. KOLE It is certified that error appears in the above-identified patent and that Said Letters Patent are hetebytorrected as shown below:

On Cover Page, AFter "Assigneez" Cancel "Kolman Laboratories Inc." and substitute therefor -KOLMAR LABORATORIES, INC."-

Signed and sealed this 1st day of October 1974,

(SEAL) Attest:

. MCCOY GIBSON JR. c. MARSHALL DANN Attestizzg, Officer Commissioner of Patents FORM PO-IO O (1 uscomM-oc ooa7o-po9 U,S. GOVERN

Claims

2. The method of claim 1, wherein said liquid carrier is water.
3. The method of claim 2, wherein the water is present in an amount of 20% to 35% by weight of the total weight of the dry composition and the water, said mixture being formed into stick form by extrusion.
4. The method of claim 3, wherein said composition further includes from 0.1% to 7.5% of a lubricant.
5. The method of claim 1, wherein said binder is a mixture of gum tragacanth and carboxymethyl cellulose.
6. The method of claim 1, wherein said dry composition includes titanium dioxide, said titanium dioxide functioning as a portion of said finely divided material as well as a colorant.
7. The dry pressed powder cosmetic makeup stick prepared by the method of claim 1.