US3762347A

US3762347A - Apparatus for sewing a continuous slide fastener chain between an upper and a lower fabric layer

Info

Publication number: US3762347A
Application number: US00249531A
Authority: US
Inventors: D Sesselmann; H Pickert
Original assignee: William Prym Werke GmbH and Co KG
Current assignee: William Prym Werke GmbH and Co KG
Priority date: 1971-05-05
Filing date: 1972-05-02
Publication date: 1973-10-02
Anticipated expiration: 1990-10-02
Also published as: IE36311B1; ZA722160B; FI52875C; AT324992B; AU4066272A; FI52875B; IT1001477B; FR2135554A2; GB1377774A; FR2135554B2; DK135957B; CA959348A; DK135957C; IE36311L; AU457612B2; BE782663R; NL7206085A; DE2122141A1

Abstract

Apparatus for sewing in a single sewing operation a continuous slide fastener chain to portions of an upper and a lower fabric layer located at opposite sides of a slit through these layers while ensuring proper position of the two fabric layers and the slide fastener chain at the start and during the sewing operation. The apparatus comprises a two needle sewing machine provided on its needle plate and its presser foot with vertically aligned stop pins for properly aligning the two fabric layers with each other and a slide fastener chain guide which is movable in a direction normal to the needle plate between an upper inserting position permitting proper placing of the lower fabric layer on the support face of the apparatus and a lower guiding position.

Description

United States Patent 1 Sesselmann et al.

[ 1 Oct. 2, 1973 1221 Filed: May 2,1972

21' Appl. No.1 249,531

[30] Foreign Application Priority Data May 5,1971 Germany P 21 22 141.0

[52] U.S. Cl.-'. ll2/l05 [51] Int. Cl....; D05b 3/18 [58] .Field of Search 112/104, 105, 265;

[56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 3,263,238 8/1966 Waldes 2/265 3,158,118 ll/l964 Steingruebner 112/265 Primary Examiner-Geo. V. Larkin Att0rneyMichael S. Striker [57] ABSTRACT Apparatus for sewing in a single sewing operation a continuous slide fastener chain to portions of an upper and a lower fabric layer located at opposite sides of a slit through these layers while ensuring proper position of the two fabric layers and the slide fastener chain at the start and during the sewing operation. The apparatus comprises a two needle sewing machine provided on its needle plate and its presser foot with vertically aligned stop pins for properly aligning the two fabrie layers with each other and a slide fastener chain guide which is movable in a direction normal to the needle plate between an upper inserting position permitting proper placing of the lower fabric layer on the support face of the apparatus'and a lower guiding position.'

l2 Claims, 4 Drawing Figures PATEN IEU Um 2 6 sum 2 BF 4 Fig. 2

PATENTEUBET elm 3.762.347

sum 3 [IF 4 APPARATUS FOR SEWING A CONTINUOUS SLIDE FASTENER CHAIN BETWEEN AN UPPER AND A LOWER FABRIC LAYER BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The U.S. Pat. No. 3,570,434 discloses a method and apparatus for sewing a continuous slide fastener chain taken from a supply spool in which the coupling elements on the two halves of the slide fastener chain are in engagement with each other onto portions of a'carrier, for instance a garment, located on opposite sides of a slit formed in the carrier. The apparatus disclosed in the aforementioned patent comprises downstream of the sewing station means for connecting the two halves of the slide fastener chain by a bottom stop to each other and for simultaneously severing the continuous slide fastener chain downstream of the thus attached bottom stop from the remainder of the continuous slide fastener chain. In this way the thus connected and severed end of the continuous slide fastener chain is placed in proper position for the next sewing operation. The apparatus disclosed in the aforementioned patent is suitable only'for an operation in which the slide fastener chain has to be connected to a'single fabric layer, however, difficulties arise when the carrier to which the slide fastener chain is to be connected comprises two fabric layers, for instance an outer or upper layer and a lower layer or lining which must be properly superimposed upon each other and in which the slide fastener has to be sewn to the carrier sandwiched between the outer fabric and the lining.

Apparatus is also known in the art (US. Pat. No. 2,776,635) which aims to overcomethese difficulties in which the fabric layer which forms during the sewing operation the lower layer, for instance the lining, is guided ina tensioned manner to the sewing station, in which a slide fastener chain guide is provided to guide a slide fastener over the lower fabric layer and in which the upper fabric layer is pushed by hand and guided along its edges by proper guide means likewise to the sewing station. This known apparatus can however be used only when the two fabric layers are not connected at the ends of the slit, when the slide fastener is fed into the apparatus at the desired final length, and when the upper and the lower fabric layers are properly oriented after the slide fastener has been attached at one end of the layers. The apparatus disclosed in this patent has the additional disadvantage that especially the guiding of the upper fabric layerin propoer orientation will be difficult and that the actual sewing operation cannot be properly observed.

Another apparatus is known in the art in which the lower layer and a slide fastener superimposed thereon are properly oriented on a horizontal support face and in which these components are moved through the sewing station whereby the upper layer during the sewing operation is guided by proper guide means over the thus superimposed two previously mentioned components. This known apparatus requires however that the slide fastener in its finished length is superimposed on the lower fabric layer and this apparatus'does not permit to sew a continuous slide fastener chain'to the two fabric layers which is severed subsequent'to the sewing operation. in addition, this-known apparatus does not permit the operator to'siteduring the operation, and this will render the operation :more difficult and cause, a

correspondingly increased time for finishing the attaching operation.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide for an apparatus for attaching a slide fastener chain-sandwiched between a lower and an upper fabric layer in an efficient manner and which avoids the disadvantages of such apparatus known in the art.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide for an apparatus of the aforementioned kind in which a slide fastener chain can be sewn to portions of an upper and a lower fabric layer located to opposite sides of a slit formed in these layers, in which the slit in each layer is closed at one end thereof, in which a continuous slide fastener chain may be used which after the sewing operation is severed from the remain-- der of the continuous slide fastener chain, and in which the remainder of the slide fastener chain is provided with a bottom stop and held in proper position for the next sewing operation.

It is an additional object of the present invention to provide for an apparatus of the aformentioned kind which can be operated in an efficient manner and which is composed of relatively few and simple parts so as to properly stand up during extended use.

With these and other object in view which will become apparent later on, the apparatus of the present invention for securing a continuous slide fastener chain sandwiched between an upper and a lower fabric layer of a carrier to portions located at opposite sidesof a slit mainly comprises a two-needle sewing machine having a pair of reciprocating-needles, a needle plate, and .a presser foot movable between an upper inactive and a lower active position, support plate means having van upper portion flush with the needle plate and a downwardly extending portion for supporting the tensioned lower fabric layer thereon, first and second stop means vertically aligned with each other respectively provided on the needle plate and the presser foot for respectively aligning the closed ends of the slits formed in the lower and the upper fabric layer, a slide fastener chain guide for guiding the continuous slide fastener chain toward the needles of the sewing machine, and means cooperating with the slide fastener chain guide for moving the same in a direction normal to the needle plate between an upper fabric inserting position and alower guiding position.

The first and secondstop means preferably comprise a pair of pins respectively mounted aligned in substantially vertical position in the needle plate and the presser foot and urged by biasing means toward each other so that the same extend with portions thereof into the space between the presser foot and the needle plate when the presser foot is moved to its upper inactive position. Theapparatus includes also means located in the direction of movement of the slide fastener chain downstream of the needles for attaching a bottom stop to the slide fastener chain and for severing the slide "fastener portions sewn to the two fabric layers downstream of the bottom stop from the remainder .of the continuousslide fastenerchain so that the severed end of the remainder of the continuous slide fastener chain with'the bottom stop attached thereto will be ready for the next sewing operation. The above-mentioned stop pins permit a precise positioning of the two fabric laytener chain with the bottom stop thereon has been lifted upwardly from the lower fabric layer when the slide fastener chain guide is moved to its upper fabric inserting position. A brake provided on the slide fastener chain guide and engaging the chain will assure that the end of the continuous slide fastener chain is again brought to its proper position for starting the sewing operation when the slide fastener chain guide is moved back to its lower guiding position.

The lower fabric layer is in a known manner automatically advanced during the sewing operation and the slide fastener chain is preferably provided with a leaf spring acting on the lower fabric layer when the guide is in its lower guiding position to brake the lower fabric layer to smooth the same.

The support plate on which the lower fabric layer is supported has an upper portion flush with the needle plate of the sewing machine and a downwardly extending portion, and clamping means are provided adapted to be clamped onto the trailing edge of the lower fabric layer. The clamping means are guided in guide grooves of the downwardly extending portion of the support plate so that the clamping means may move upwardly with the lower fabric layer while keeping the latter in tensioned condition during the sewing operation due to the weight of the clamping means attached thereto. Releasing means automatically open the clamping means when the same reaches an upper position on the downwardly extending portion of the guide plate, and arresting means are provided to releasably arrest the clamping means in the thus reached upper position to facilitate the attachment thereof to the trailing edge of the lower fabric layer to be used in the next attaching operation.

The novel features which are considered as characteristic for the invention are set forth in particular in the appended claims. The invention itself, however, both as to its construction and its method of operation, together with additional objects and advantages thereof, will be best understood from the following description of specific embodiment when read in connection with the accompanying drawing.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING FIG. 1 is a partial side view of the apparatus according to the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a partial front view of the apparatus shown in FIG. 1, with part of the slide fastener chain guide omitted;

FIG. 3 is a partial view of the apparatus as shown in FIG. 1 drawn at an enlarged scale; and

FIG. 4 is a partial view of the apparatus as viewed in FIG. 2, likewise drawn at an enlarged scale.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT Referring now to the drawing, and more specifically to FIGS. 1 and 2 of the same, it will be seen that the apparatus according to the present invention comprises a

frame

20, 21 having an upper plate 20 on which a two

needle sewing machine

1, 29 is mounted, which is driven in a known manner not shown in the drawing, from a motor 25 and in which the rod 6 of the presser foot 7 may be lifted and lowered and the machine stopped and started by means of a foot pedal 22 in a manner well known in the art. The particular type of sewing machine to be used in the apparatus is of no importance and other types of two needle sewing machines than that schematically illustrated in the drawing may also be used.

A supply roll 34 for a continuous slide fastener chain 35 in which the coupling elements provided on the two stringers of the chain are inter-engaged with each other is turnablemounted in any convenient manner, not shown in the drawing, beneath the sewing machine. The chain 35 is guided in a manner as will be described later on to the sewing station of the machine. Means comprising a movable cutter 9 and a stationary cutter 10 for severing the continuous slide fastener chain in transverse direction and means including a punch 11 movable with the cutter 9 and a stationary anvil l1 for attaching a bottom stop to the free end of the severed remainder of the continuous slide fastener chain are provided on the downstream side, that is downstream of the needles 5, of the sewing machine. The movable cutter 9 and punch 11 operated by a compressed air cylinder 8 controlled by a switch 23 mounted adjacent the foot. pedal 22, as shown in FIG. 2. Such severing and bottom stop attaching means, only schematically illustrated in FIG. 1, are known in the art and their construction and operation is clearly described in the aforementioned U.S. Pat. No. 3,570,434.

The apparatus further comprises support plate means for supporting the lower fabric layer or lining 36 thereon. The support plate means has an upper horizontally extending portion 2 which curves forwardly of the needles 5 of the sewing machine downwardly into a substantially vertically extending portion 12. The downwardly extending portion 12 is provided, as shown in FIG. 2, with a pair of parallel guide grooves 14 in which a clamping means or clamping device 13 to be connected to the trailing edge of the lower fabric por tion 36 is guided for movement in vertical direction. The clamping device 13 attached in the position shown in full lines in FIG. 1 to the trailing edge of the lower fabric portion 36 moves under the influence of gravity downwardly until the lower fabric layer becomes tensioned. The clamping device l3 is held by means of a clamping pin 16 against the action of a spring, not shown in the drawing, in clamped or closed position until, when during the sewing operation the clamping device 13 is moved by the lower fabric layer 36 in-upward direction, the clamping pin 16 engages with a releasing pin or releasing means 17 mounted in a fixed position on the apparatus. The clamping device is thus opened and disengaged from the trailing edge of the lower fabric layer 36 so that the trailing edge of the fabric layer may pass through the sewing station. The apparatus comprises further releasably arresting means for arresting the clamping means in the upper end position. The arresting means comprise a resilient engaging portion or latch 15 on the clamping means and fluid operated cylinder and piston means 18 having a portion located in the path of movement of the engaging portion for arresting the clamping means in the upper end position shown in full lines in FIG. 1. The cylinder and piston means 18 are controlled by a valve 19 mounted on the plate 20, as shown in FIG. 2, so that when the cylinder and piston means 18 is actuated it releases the clamping means 13 so that the latter may move under the influence of gravity downwardly. By arresting the clamping means 13 in its upper end position, shown in full lines in FIG. 1, it will be held in an easily accessible position for clamping it to the trailing edge of the lower fabric layer used during the following attaching operation. The clamping means 13 is then attached to the following lower layer, the control valve 19 is operated so as to withdraw the portion on the cylinder and piston means 18 from engagement with the portion of the clamping device 13 and the latter will move downwardly on the portion 12 of the support plate means to thus keep the lower layer 36, when held at its upper end, in taut condition.

in order to arrange the upper and the lower fabric layer in proper relative position to each other, the apparatus further includes first and second stop means vertically aligned with each other and respectively provided on the needle plate 3 and on the presser foot 7. The aforementioned stop means comprise, as best shown in FIGS. 1 and 4, a vertically movable pin 37 mounted in the needle plate 3 for movement in vertical direction and biased in upward direction by a tension spring 38 attached at opposite ends thereof to the needle plate 3 and to the lower end of the pin 37. When the presser foot 7 is lifted, the pin 37 will project with an upper portion thereof beyond the needle plate 3 and serve as stop or abutment for the sewn together end of the slit provided in the lower fabric layer'36 when the latter is introduced beneath the presser foot 7 from the trailing end of the layer as considered in the direction of movement of the layers during the sewing operation. The presser foot 7 is provided in an analogous manner with a vertically movable pin 39 which is biased by a spring 40 in a downward direction and which serves as a stop for the closed end of the slit of the upper fabric layer.

The guide for the continuous slide fastener chain 35 withdrawn from the supply roll 34, comrpises a horizontally extending portion 31 adjacent the presser foot 7 and a downwardly curved portion 30 provided with brake means 32 adapted to engage the slide fastener chain passing through the portion 30. The slide

fastener chain guide

30, 31 is movable from a guiding position, shown in full lines, in upward direction to a fabric inserting position, shown in dash lines in FIGS. 1 and 3. In order to move the

guide

30, 31 between the two positions thereof, an arm 28 is attached to the bottom face of the guide portion 31 and extending laterally therefrom, as best shown in FIG. 2. The right end portion of the arm 28, as viewed in FIG. 2, passes through an opening in a guide rod 42 which is guided for movement in vertical direction in an upright tube 43 fastened to the plate 20. A pair of springs 27 bias the guide rod 42 and therewith the arm 20 and the slide

fastener chain guide

30, 31 in downward direction so that the

guide

30, 31 is normally held in its lower guiding position.

A lifting cylinder 26 connected to the arm 28 intermediate its ends and actuated by central means inform of a control valve 24 mounted in the region of the foot pedal 22 lifts the arm 28, when actuated, against the bias of the springs 27 so as to move the

guide

30, 31 to the upper inserting position. The lifting cylinder 26 and the springs 27 constitute therefore means to move the slide fastener chain guide between an upper fabric inserting and a lower guiding position.

In order to improve the guidance of the lower fabric layer 36, a leaf spring 33'is attached at one end to the lower face of the guide portion 31 while its free end trails, in the direction ofmovement of the lower fabric layer during the sewing operation, the fastened end, to

thus exert onto the lower fabric layer a braking and flattening action when the

guide

30 and 31 is in its lower guiding position.

The above-described apparatus will operate as follows:

Before the slide fastener is sewn to the two fabric layers, the slit in each fabric layer is closed at one end by appropriate stitching. The upper fabric layer will be folded in known manner in the region of the slit by known folding devices but an ironing of the fold in the upper later is not necessary and an ironing of the lower layer is only then advisable if the same is formed by a thin lining material. The cut off end of the continuous slide fastener chain, which is provided with a bottom stop, in the preceding attachingoperation, is located in I the region of the needles.

The operator will now operate the foot pedal 22 and thereby lift the presser foot 7. Subsequently thereto, the operator will actuate the valve 24 to actuate the lifting cylinder 26 and thereby raise the slide

fastener chain guide

30, 31 from its lower guiding to its upper inserting position. The brake 32, which engages the slide fastener chain in the guide. portion 30, will during such raising of the guide prevent that the slide fastener chain 35 moves relative to the guide.

Raising of the presser foot 7 will cause the two stop pins 37 and 39 to move under the influence of the biasing springs 38 and 40 to the advanced position in which the pin 37 projects upwardly from the needle plate 3 and the pin 39 downwardly beyond the lower surface of the presser foot 7. The operator will now place the lower fabric layer in proper position in which the closed end of the slit formed therein engages the pin 37 and subsequently thereto, the-operator will attach the clamping device 13 to the trailing free edges of the lower fabric layer 36. Subsequently thereto he will operate the control valve 19 which withdraws the locking cylinder 18 so that the clamping device may slide under the influence of gravity downwardly along the downwardly extending portion 12 of the support plate means to thus keep the lower fabric layer 36 in taut condition. The lower fabric layer is thus properly positioned in the apparatus. 7 2

Subsequently thereto the

guide

30, 31 is moved to its lower guiding position by operating the valve 24. This positions the end of the cut-off continuous slide fastener chain provided with the bottom stop at its proper place. Subsequently thereto, the operator will place the closed slit end of the upper fabric layer into abutment with the pin 39 so that the upper fabric layer is properly aligned with the lower fabric layer. The presser foot is then again lowered by operating the foot pedal 22. The two

pins

37 and 39 are thereby pushed back so that the subsequent sewing operation is not hampered by the same.

The sewing operation starts now with the formation of a locking seam which comprises one forward stitch and two rearward stitches. During the following start of sewing the slide fastener to the two fabric layers-the upper fabric layer is manually advanced by the operator whereas the uniform automatic advance of the lower fabric layer will be assured by the described guide means and the additionally provided leaf spring 33 for the lower fabric layer. The trailing edges of the lower fabric layer 36 are automatically released from the clamping device 13 in the manner as describedreleased from the clamping device 13 in the manner as described above when these edges reach a distance of approximately cm from the needles of the sewing machine.

Depending on the type of garment to be manufacutred the seams attaching the two halves of the slide fastener chain to the fabric layers are continued to the free edges of the fabric layers or the seams are stopped I to 2 cm before these edges.

The continuation of the seams to the free edges of the fabric layers is advantageous when subsequently thereto a collar has to be attached, but if the slide fastener is to be applied to a garment simple formed with an opening for the neck, then it is advantageous to end the scams 1 to 2 cm before the end edges of the fabric layers. In the latter case the fabric layers are advanced by hand after stopping of the sewing operation beyond the

cutting device

9, 10. The parts not sewn together are in the region of the neck opening finished by an additional sewing operation.

Subsequently thereto, the switch 23 is operated, actuating thereby the cylinder and piston means 8 so that the continuous slide fastener chain is cut by the cutting device 9, l0 and simultaneously a bottom stop is attached to the free end of the continuous slide fastener chain 35 in the manner as clearly described in the U.S. Pat. No. 3,570,434. The end of the slide fastener chain with the bottom stop attached thereto is thus positioned in the apparatus ready for the next sewing operation.

it will be understood that each of the elements described above, or two or more together, amy also find a useful application in other types of apparatus for sewing a continuous slide fastener chain to a carrier differing from the type described above.

While the invention has been illustrated and described as embodied in apparatus for sewing a continuous slide fastener chain to a carrier comprising an upper and a lower fabric layer, it is not intended to be limited to the details shown, since various modifications and structural changes may be made without departing in any way from the spirit of the present invention.

Without further analysis, the foregoing will so fully reveal the gist of the present invention that others can by applying current knowledge readily adapt it for various applications without omitting features that, from the standpoint of prior art, merely constitute essential characteristics of the generic or specific aspects of this invention and, therefore, such adaptations should and are intended to be comprehended within the meaning and range of equivalence of the following claims.

What is claimed as new and desired to be protected by Letters Patent is set forth in the appended claims:

1. Apparatus for sewing a continuous slide fastener chain sandwiched between an upper and a lower fabric layer of a carrier to portions of the latter located to opposite sides of a slit, the apparatus comprising a two needle sewing machine having a pair of reciprocationg needles, a needle plate and a presser foot movable between an upper inactive and a lower active position; support plate means having an upper portion flush with said needle plate and a downwardly extending portion for supporting a tensioned lower fabric layer thereon; first and second stop means vertically aligned with each other respectively provided on said needle plate and said presser foot for respectively aligning the closed ends of the slits formed in the lower and the upper fabric layer; a slide fastener chain guide for guiding the continuous slide fastener chain toward said needles of said sewing machine; and control means cooperating with said slide fastener chain guide for moving the same in a direction normal to said needle plate between an upper fabric inserting position and a lower guiding position.

2. Apparatus as defined in claim 1, wherein said first and said second stop means comprises a pair of pins respectively mounted in substantially vertical position in said needle plate and said presser foot and biasing means for urging said pins toward each other so that the same extend with portions thereof, when said presser foot is moved to said inactive position, into the space between said presser foot and said needle plate.

3. Apparatus as defined in claim 1, and including brake means on said slide fastener chain guide for braking movement of a slide fastener chain guided therein.

4. Apparatus as defined in claim 1, and including resilient means on said slide fastener chain guide arranged for resiliently engaging the lower fabric layer on said support plate means when said slide fastener chain guide is insaid lower guiding position.

5. Apparatus as defined in claim 4, wherein said resilient means comprises a leaf spring fastened at one end to a face of said slide fastener chain guide which faces said support plate means and having a free end trailing the fastened end in the direction of movement of the lower fabric layer during the sewing operation.

6. Apparatus as defined in claim 1, wherein said means for moving said slide fastener chain guide between said positions thereof comprises fluid operated cylinder and piston means connected to said guide and control means for controlling said cylinder and piston means. a

7. Apparatus as defined in claim 1, wherein said apparatus comprises a frame and wherein said control means comprises a valve mounted at a lower portion of said frame so as to be operable by the foot of an operator.

8. Apparatus as claimed in claim 1, and including clamping means having a closed clamping and an open releasing position and being adapted to be clamped to the trailing edge of the lower fabric layer, guide means on said downwardly extending portion of said support plate means and guiding said clamping means for movement between a lower starting position and an upper end position, and stationary releasing means cooperating with said clamping means for opening the latter upon reaching said upper end position.

9. Apparatus as defined in claim 8, and including a releasable arresting means for arresting said clamping means in said upper end position.

10. Apparatus as defined in claim 9, wherein said arresting means comprises a resilient engaging portion on said clamping means and fluid operated cylinder and piston means having a portion located in the path of movement of said engaging portion for arresting said clamping means in its upper end position, said portion of said cylinder and piston means being movable out of engagement with said engaging portion upon actuation of said cylinder and piston means for freeing said clamping means to move under the influence of gravity downwardly to its lower starting position.

11. Apparatus as defined in claim 10, and including control valve means for controlling operation of said cylinder and piston means.

12. Apparatus as defined in claim 1, and including means located in the direction of movement of the slide fastener chain downstream of said needles for attaching a bottom stop to said slide fastener chain and for severing the latter downstream of the attached bottom stop. t t i i

Claims

4. Apparatus as defined in claim 1, and including resilient means on said slide fastener chain guide arranged for resiliently engaging the lower fabric layer on said support plate means when said slide fastener chain guide is in said lower guiding position.

6. Apparatus as defined in claim 1, wherein said means for moving said slide fastener chain guide between said positions thereof comprises fluid operated cylinder and piston means connected to said guide and control means for controlling said cylinder and piston means.

12. Apparatus as defined in claim 1, and including means located in the direction of movement of the slide fastener chain downstream of said needles for attaching a bottom stop to said slide fastener chain and for severing the latter downstream of the attached bottom stop.