US3614789A - Tailoring cut for garment sleeves with assembly of the corresponding elements - Google Patents

Tailoring cut for garment sleeves with assembly of the corresponding elements Download PDF

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Publication number
US3614789A
US3614789A US814965A US3614789DA US3614789A US 3614789 A US3614789 A US 3614789A US 814965 A US814965 A US 814965A US 3614789D A US3614789D A US 3614789DA US 3614789 A US3614789 A US 3614789A
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United States
Prior art keywords
garment
arm
cut
seam
assembly
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Expired - Lifetime
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US814965A
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English (en)
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Georges Menut
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Individual
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Individual
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth

Definitions

  • a garment comprising a plurality of sections interconnected with one another includes sections which are specifically shaped to correspond to the contour of various muscles in the arm of the human body, so that when the arm is raised the garment portion at the waist does not ride upwardly.
  • FIG. 1 which is a schematic view of the basic conventional cut
  • RIG. 2 which is a schematic view of the bones of the arm and the positioning of the head of the humerus for conventional placing of the sleeve seam symbolically depicted;
  • FIG. 3 which is a schematic illustration of two arm positions in association with the conventional basic cut
  • FIG. 4 which is a schematic illustration of the movement of the arm, used as the basis of the present invention (the arm is shown raised);
  • FIG. 5 which is a schematic illustration of the movement of the arm, used as the basis of the present invention (the arm is shown raised and the corresponding lift in the side of the body is also indicated);
  • FIG. 6 which is a schematic view of the line of cut used at the top of the sleeve in accordance with the invention.
  • FIG. 7 which is a schematic view of the way in which the garment in accordance with the invention is assembled.
  • FIG. 8 which is a schematic view of the formation of the interwoven shoulder
  • FIG. 9 which is a schematic view of the armpit section for short sleeves.
  • FIG. 10 which is a view on a larger scale showing in plan form the back, front and armpit sections of a long sleeved garment cut in accordance with the invention
  • FIG. 11 which is a view similar to that of FIG. 10, but of a short-sleeved garment
  • FIG. 12 which is a plan view of the various constituent parts of a garment, in accordance with another embodiment
  • FlIG. 13 which is a front elevational view of the pieces and their lines of cut, the wearer having his arms lowered, in accordance with the embodiment of FIG. 12;
  • FIG. 14 which is a front elevational view of the embodiment of FIG. 12, showing the lines of cut and with the wearers arms raised;
  • FIG. 15 which is a back view of the garment of FIG. 13.
  • This sleeve is cut basically in the form of a raised arm.
  • the dimension from the wrist to the armpit is thus greater than that from the Wrist to the shoulder, as FIG. 4 shows.
  • the location of the seam fixing the sleeve to the body of the garment is determined by the muscular mass when at its greatest bulk.
  • This arrangement which, in a conventional garment, is simply the point of resistance to stretching of the garment in the upward direction, becomes in the case of the present invention and, at the point of attachment of the deltoid muscle close to the bicep b, the factor which determines the exact height it required in the garment with the arm lifted and with no deformation, as shown in FIG. 5.
  • the line of the seam. fixing the top of the sleeve is here determined by the muscle movement and not the skeletal movement which forms the basis of conventional cutting.
  • the seam line follows the form of the deltoid muscle, running away from the clavicle towards the rear (and in so doing intersecting the trapezius), in a projection of the neck line of the garment or the collar-band, depending upon the style (round/ V necks or roll necks), see FIG. 6.
  • This seam line terminates, running from rear to front, and girdling the deltoid muscle (imagine the drawing folded around the arm), beneath the armpit at the side seam closing the garment from Wrist to waist as shown in FIG. 7.
  • the piece covering the deltoid muscle functions directly as a sleeve, creating at the back the desired cut-out and replacing the sleeve top of the long-sleeved design, the assembly being bordered by a collar-band identical to that used for the round neck, as shown in FIG. 9.
  • FIG. illustrates the ways in which the back A, the front B and the sleeves C are cut in order, after assembly, to produce a long-sleeved garment with the features of the invention.
  • FIG. 11 illustrates the ways in which the back A, the front B and the armpit sections D are cut in order to produce after assembly, a short-sleeved garment incorporating the features of the invention.
  • a new cut which is substantially characterized in that said garment breaks down substantially as many pieces as there are muscles involved in the arm movements and into a number of pieces for interconnecting the pieces corresponding to the muscles; the lines of cut of the various elements follow the contours of each muscle precisely, While their points of attachment are located at the intersection between said muscles themselves or between them and their joints.
  • the front E is fitted by virtue of its symmetrical and sloped lines E to the seam lines F, of pieces F known as the deltoid pieces which, at other lines F co-operate and are assembled with part of the seam line G of each piece G (the trapezius pieces) constituted by two similar triangles linked by a central seam G at the location of the spine.
  • the back is split into two similar pieces H linked to the side of pieces G and F at their respective curved seam lines G and F these pieces H likewise constitute, at H the backs of the sleeves.
  • a band I is fixed at I along the line E of said front piece, to the line F of the deltoid piece F, and to the line H of the back portion H of the back H, and forms half the sleeve.
  • These pieces I are attached at their edges J 2 to the parts H of the back H and to the sleeve halves H.
  • the pattern of cutting is based upon the articulation of the muscles involved in the movements of the limbs.
  • This piece ensures that when the deltoid muscle operates, there is available the requisite length from the bottom of the garment to the junction between the deltoid and the tricep and bicep, as well as the necessary width of fabric to allow said muscle to deploy without lifting the garment any further.
  • the armpit seam disappears since it is no longer necessary.
  • the sleeve is in effect made up half of a piece I delimited by the seam I running from the groin obliquely to the point where the deltoid encounters the tricep and the bicep, on the one hand, and of a seam I running from the wrist to the base of the garment and pass ing through the center of the armpit, on the other.
  • the other half H of the sleeve is in an integral part of the back H and is therefore attached at H thereto by the seam J underneath.
  • the seam Il -E developing from the junction between the large pectoral muscle and the deltoid follows the long oblique line already referred to, in the case of the male.
  • this seam although devolping from the same point of attachment, is slightly curved in order to follow the line of the breast (shown in broken-line in FIG. 13).
  • the garment can be of short-sleeved design and all that is necessary in this context is to reduce on the one hand the length of the piece I and, on the other, that of the section H of the back.
  • a garment for a human body comprising a plurality of sections, said sections having edges defining respective contours, some of said contours corresponding approximately to the contours of the deltoid, trapezius and pectoral muscles of the human body, and means joining said sections along selected edges corresponding to said contours of the deltoid, trapezius and pectoral muscles of the human body.
  • a garment as claimed in claim 2 including sleeve sections having respective edges for being joined respectively to said opposite portions of said front section.
  • a garment as claimed in claim 1 comprising a back section including upper extremities of generally triangular shape having edges extending along the contours of the trapezius muscles and jointed to one another along a line corresponding to the spinal colum of the human body, respective shoulder sections corresponding in shape to the contour of the deltoid muscles and joined to said upper extremities of said back section along selected edges corresponding to the intersection between said trapezius muscles and said deltoid muscles, a front section including opposite edges joined to respective edges 6 of said shoulder sections extending generally transversely of the intersection between the trapezius and deltoid muscles, and a pair of front and a pair of back side sections of respective similar shape joined to the outer edges of said front, back and shoulder sections and including mutually joined edge portions for constituting sleeves.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
US814965A 1968-04-16 1969-04-10 Tailoring cut for garment sleeves with assembly of the corresponding elements Expired - Lifetime US3614789A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR42000093 1968-04-16
FR6907779A FR2038548A6 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1968-04-16 1969-03-24

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US3614789A true US3614789A (en) 1971-10-26

Family

ID=26214913

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US814965A Expired - Lifetime US3614789A (en) 1968-04-16 1969-04-10 Tailoring cut for garment sleeves with assembly of the corresponding elements

Country Status (8)

Country Link
US (1) US3614789A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
BE (1) BE731283A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
CH (1) CH504175A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
DE (1) DE1918799A1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
FR (2) FR1583953A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
GB (1) GB1270304A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
LU (1) LU58407A1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
NL (1) NL6905763A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4473908A (en) * 1982-06-08 1984-10-02 Gabriele Knecht Garment
US5410759A (en) * 1993-02-23 1995-05-02 Hari; Todd N. Top garment patterned with sleeves above the head
US20050241044A1 (en) * 2002-06-05 2005-11-03 Alistair Zorica Minimal seemed fitted garment
US20110035859A1 (en) * 2008-04-10 2011-02-17 Yutaka Koga Upper Garment

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4473908A (en) * 1982-06-08 1984-10-02 Gabriele Knecht Garment
US5410759A (en) * 1993-02-23 1995-05-02 Hari; Todd N. Top garment patterned with sleeves above the head
US20050241044A1 (en) * 2002-06-05 2005-11-03 Alistair Zorica Minimal seemed fitted garment
US7665148B2 (en) * 2002-06-05 2010-02-23 Alistair Zorica Minimally seamed fitted garment
US20110035859A1 (en) * 2008-04-10 2011-02-17 Yutaka Koga Upper Garment
US9402426B2 (en) * 2008-04-10 2016-08-02 Asics Corporation Upper garment

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE1918799A1 (de) 1969-11-06
LU58407A1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1969-07-21
FR1583953A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1969-12-12
CH504175A (fr) 1971-03-15
BE731283A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1969-09-15
GB1270304A (en) 1972-04-12
NL6905763A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1969-10-20
FR2038548A6 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1971-01-08

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