US3533417A - Treating human hair - Google Patents

Treating human hair Download PDF

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Publication number
US3533417A
US3533417A US627612A US3533417DA US3533417A US 3533417 A US3533417 A US 3533417A US 627612 A US627612 A US 627612A US 3533417D A US3533417D A US 3533417DA US 3533417 A US3533417 A US 3533417A
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
hair
solution
waving
homocysteine thiolactone
compound
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US627612A
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English (en)
Inventor
Jerzy Josef Bartoszewicz
Miklos Moshe Breuer
John Trevor Pearson
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Lever Brothers Co
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Lever Brothers Co
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Publication date
Application filed by Lever Brothers Co filed Critical Lever Brothers Co
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Publication of US3533417A publication Critical patent/US3533417A/en
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/447Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof containing sulfur

Definitions

  • TREATING HUMAN HAIR This invention relates to methods for changing the configuration of human hair. Such methods include the waving as well as straightening of hair.
  • an aqueous alkaline solution of homocysteine thiolactone (2-amino-4-mercapto-butyric acid -thiolactone) or a salt or N-substituted derivative thereof (which materials are referred to for convenience hereafter as homocysteine thiolactone compounds) is damaged much less than is the case when the conventional alkaline thioglycollate solution is used. This means that a persons hair can be restyled more frequently.
  • the present invention provides a method of changing the configuration of human hair, which comprises contacting the hair with an aqueous alkaline solution of a homocysteine thiolactone compound, confining the hair in a desired configuration, and subsequently subjecting the confined hair to oxidising conditions.
  • N-substituted derivatives of homocysteine thiolactone which may be employed are those containing carbonyl groups for example N-alkanoyl groups such as lower (C 1 to C N-alkanoyl groups, N-aroyl groups such as N-benzoyl, and N-(alkyl-aroyll-groups such as N-toluoyl and N-(ethylbenzoyll-groups.
  • N-alkanoyl groups such as lower (C 1 to C N-alkanoyl groups, N-aroyl groups such as N-benzoyl, and N-(alkyl-aroyll-groups such as N-toluoyl and N-(ethylbenzoyll-groups.
  • salts of homocysteine thiolactone which can be used is mentioned the hydrochloride salt.
  • the homocysteine thiolactone compound is required to act on the hair under alkaline conditions and this is most conve niently done by applying a mixture of a suitable base and the homocysteine thiolactone compound to the hair.
  • a solution of the homocysteine thiolactone compound and base may be applied to the hair separately.
  • the hair may be contacted with the alkaline solution of the homocysteine thiolactone compound either before or after the hair has been confined in the desired configuration.
  • the solution is desirably one freshly'prepared: it is preferred to apply the solution within about l5 minutes of preparation and for best results within about 5 minutes.
  • the pH of the solution is desirably not more than about 1 l and is preferably from about 8 to about 10.
  • Suitable amounts of the homocysteine thiolactone compound dissolved in the solution are from 5 to 30 percent, preferably to percent, by weight of the solution.
  • the hair in this condition After a person's hair has been confined in the desired manner, such as by winding it on rollers, it will be required to leave the hair in this condition for a certain time to permit the solution of the homocysteine thiolactone compound to soften the hair to the necessary extent.
  • the time required will depend on a number of factors, for example the concentration of the solution of the homocysteine thiolactone compound and also on whether this solution is applied to the hair before or after confining it in the predetermined configuration, and it may also vary from one persons hair to another. Usually, however, it will not be necessary to leave the hair for more than about minutes and in certain cases this time need only be about 10 to T5 minutes or even less.
  • the next stage of the treatment in accordance with this invention is, as in the conventional thioglycollate process, an oxidation stage.
  • the oxidation of the hair which has been Chemically reduced by contact with the solution of the homocysteine thiolactone compound can be performed by prolonged exposure of the hair to the air or by brief contact with a solution of an oxidising agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, sodium bromate or sodium'perborate.
  • the solution of the homocysteine thiolactone compound may contain various other ingredients such as wetting agents, buffering agents, swelling agents, opacifiers and thickening agents.
  • a preferred manner of making up the alkaline solution of the homocysteine thiolactone compound is to mix the homocysteine thiolactone compound eitheras powder or aqueous solution, with a base solution of pH from 9 to l 1.0.
  • acids which can be used to adjust. if necessary, the pH of the base solution to be within the preferred range. are organic acids, for instance lactic, succinic, citric and acetic acids. It has been found that if the homocysteine thiolactone compound is mixed with the solution of the base which has a pH in the above range of 9 to II, then the subsequent treatment of the hair with the mixture leaves the hair in particularly good condition. A good texture or body results and the general appearance of the hair, especially'the gloss, is noticeably good.
  • homocysteine thiolactone compounds can be used in either of their optically active forms or as their racemic mixtures.
  • Switches of 30 cm. virgin hair of approximately l.l were completely damped with water and then lightly blotted.
  • the waving solution freshly prepared in the case-of thethiolactone compound
  • the waving solution was applied to the switch which wasthen wound onto a 1.6 cm. diameter roller and secured with clips.
  • all switches were wound under a 200 g. tension (Le. by attaching a 200 g.-weight to the end of the switch whilst winding on the roller).
  • the switch had been secured, it was redamped with the waving solution, and left for 20 minutes, the amount of the waving solution in contact with the hair during this processing time being about half the weight of the hair.
  • the switch was rinsed for 3 minutes whilst still remaining on the roller. After rinsing, and neutralising with hydrogen peroxide solution which was applied directly to the hair and left for 10 minutes, the switch was again rinsed for 3 minutes, blotted lightly with a towel and dried under a drier for 30 minutes.
  • the switch When dry, the switch was allowed to cool on the roller for 5 minutes, then removed and prepared ready for a load cycling experiment on an lnstron Extensometer.
  • the waving performance of the waving solutions tested were compared by determining for the hair switches treated'as above the lnstron Extensometer equilibrium value (E.V.), which is a measure of the force required to stretch a curled switch a predetermined distance.
  • the lnstron Extensometer equilibrium value was also determined for hair switches treated in the above manner using as the waving solution a standard conventional ammonium thioglycollate solution.
  • the curl retention value for switches'treated with the thiolactone shampooing and rinsing the hair. and the hair was then wound on half-inch. open mesh rollers.
  • the remainder of the solution E.V. for switches treated with thiolactone waving solution Curl Retention Value E.V.
  • a waving solution (pH 8) was made up by dissolving 8 g. of N-acetyl homocysteine thiolactone powder in 42 ml. ofa saturated solution (pH 12.4) ofcalcium hydroxide.
  • This waving solution gave a curl retention value of 85.
  • Example 2 A waving solution (ph 8.4) was prepared by adding a solution of 7.75 g. of homocysteine thiolactone hydrochloride in 22.25 g. of water to a base solution (pH 10.5) consisting of 5.2 g. monoethanolamine, 2.0 g. lactic acid and 12.8 g. water.
  • This waving solution gave a curl retention value of 80.
  • Example 3 A waving solution (pH 9.5) was prepared by adding a solution of 8.0 g. of N-acetyl homocysteine thiolactone in 22.0 g. of water to a base solution (pH 10.5) consisting of 5.2 monoethanolamine, 2.0 g. lactic acid and 12.8 g. water.
  • This waving solution gave a curl retention value of 80.
  • Example 4 A waving solution (pH 9.1) was prepared by adding 8 g. of N-acetyl homocysteine thiolactone to a base solution (pH 10.2) consisting of 5.2 g. monoethanolamine. 1.7 g. succinic acid and 35.1 g. water.
  • This waving solution gave a curl retention value of 75.
  • Example 5 A waving solution (pH 9.2) was prepared by adding 8 g. of N-acetyl homocysteine thiolactone to a base solution (pl-1 9.5) consisting of 6 g. 2-amino-2-methyl-propan-l, 3-diol, 2.5 g. lactic acid and 33.5 g. water..
  • the waving solution consisted of l M of active ingredient and 1.75 M of monoethanolamine.
  • the waving solution used consisted of 1 M of active ingredient, 1.75 M monoethanolamine and 0.4 M lactic acid.
  • Example 6 This example of waving hair was performed in the salon.
  • Virgin ltalian Blue String hair was made up into small switches (about 1 g.) and waving solution applied. The hair was then left for 20 minutes, the amount of the waving lotion remaining in contact with the hair during this time being about one-fifth of the weight of the hair. After rinsing, the hair was treated with hydrogen peroxide solution for another 10 minutes. It was then rinsed and dried.
  • the waving solution based on a homocysteine thiolactone compound had the following composition:
  • N-acetyl homocysteine thiolactone Monoethanolamine Lactic Acid Water The waving solution based on ammonium thioglyco1- late had the following composition:
  • the hair after the repeated treatments with the solution of the homocysteine thiolactone compound was much superior to that of the hair treated with the thioglycollate solution; hair treated with the thioglycollate solution had a very coarse rough feel.
  • a preferred way of supplying to the user the chemicals to be employed in the method of the invention is by providing in combination in one pack a container of a supply of a homocysteine thiolactone compound (either as a powder or as an aqueous solution) and in a separate container a supply of 5' solution of a base having a pH of at least 9 which when mixed together give an aqueous alkaline solution of the homocysteine thiolactone compound suitable for use in the method of the invention, and optionally in a further separate container a supply of an oxidising agent.
  • a container of a supply of a homocysteine thiolactone compound either as a powder or as an aqueous solution
  • a separate container a supply of 5' solution of a base having a pH of at least 9 which when mixed together give an aqueous alkaline solution of the homocysteine thiolactone compound suitable for use in the method of the invention, and optionally in a further separate container
  • hair-treating agent is an aqueous alkaline solution of N-acetyl homocysteine thiola'ctone.
  • hair-treating agent is an aqueous alkaline solution of homocysteine thiolactone hydrochloride.
  • Method as claimed in claim 1 comprising the step of preparing the hair-treating agent by adding the said compound to an aqueous solution ofa base having a pH of from 9 to l l.
  • Method as claimed in claim 1 comprising the step of preparing the hair-treating agent by adding the said compound to an aqueous solution of monoethanolamine adjusted to pH 9 to l l with lactic acid.
  • the hair-treating agent is prepared by forming a 5 to 30 percent by weight solution of N-acetyl homocysteine thiolactone in an aqueous alkaline solution having a pH of from 9 to l l.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
US627612A 1966-04-18 1967-04-03 Treating human hair Expired - Lifetime US3533417A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB06872/66A GB1187568A (en) 1966-04-18 1966-04-18 Treating Human Hair

Publications (1)

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US3533417A true US3533417A (en) 1970-10-13

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US (1) US3533417A (de)
AT (1) AT285821B (de)
BE (1) BE697129A (de)
CH (1) CH486882A (de)
DE (1) DE1617918C3 (de)
DK (1) DK117731B (de)
FI (1) FI48894C (de)
GB (1) GB1187568A (de)
LU (1) LU53453A1 (de)
NL (1) NL6705397A (de)
SE (1) SE323767B (de)

Cited By (18)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4214596A (en) * 1978-07-31 1980-07-29 Helene Curtis Industries, Inc. Permanent wave system using ammonium bisulfite prewrap
US4237910A (en) * 1979-09-24 1980-12-09 Johnson Products Co., Inc. Stable hair relaxer
US4296764A (en) * 1979-12-26 1981-10-27 Chesebrough-Pond's Inc. Hair waving and straightening method
US4992267A (en) * 1988-04-28 1991-02-12 Johnson Products Co., Inc. Hair straightening composition and system
WO1991010421A1 (en) * 1990-01-16 1991-07-25 Reckitt & Colman Use of n-acyl derivatives of homocysteine to modify the structure of keratin and cosmetic compositions containing these derivatives
US5570708A (en) * 1994-04-11 1996-11-05 L'oreal Process for the permanent reshaping of keratinous material
US5655552A (en) * 1994-06-30 1997-08-12 L'oreal Process for the permanent reshaping of keratinous material
US20020159962A1 (en) * 2001-02-22 2002-10-31 Cannell David W. Hair relaxer compositions comprising at least one hydroxide compound and at least one activating agent, and methods of using the same
US20030033677A1 (en) * 2001-08-20 2003-02-20 Nguyen Nghi Van Compositions comprising at least one hydroxide compound and at least one reducing agent, and methods for relaxing hair
US20030037384A1 (en) * 2001-08-20 2003-02-27 Nguyen Nghi Van Compositions comprising at least one hydroxide compound and at least one oxidizing agent, and methods to straighten curly hair
US20030098034A1 (en) * 2001-11-02 2003-05-29 Browning Paul T. Hair relaxer
US6723308B2 (en) 2001-11-02 2004-04-20 Kenra, Llc Hair clarifying treatment
WO2017041903A1 (en) * 2015-09-08 2017-03-16 Kao Germany Gmbh Process for semipermanent straightening and permanent shaping hair
US9642783B2 (en) 2014-04-02 2017-05-09 L'oreal Depilatory compositions
FR3060341A1 (fr) * 2016-12-21 2018-06-22 L'oreal Procede de traitement des matieres keratiniques mettant en œuvre une composition comprenant un compose de type thiolactone et une composition comprenant un agent alcalin et/ou un derive amine d’alcoxysilane
FR3060342A1 (fr) * 2016-12-21 2018-06-22 L'oreal Composition comprenant un compose de type thiolactone et un solvant particulier et procede de traitement des matieres keratiniques avec la composition
FR3060343A1 (fr) * 2016-12-21 2018-06-22 L'oreal Composition aqueuse comprenant un compose de type thiolactone et une silicone et procede de traitement des matieres keratiniques avec la composition
WO2019016088A1 (en) * 2017-07-18 2019-01-24 Basf Se POLYMER FOR TREATING HAIR

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS52128241A (en) * 1976-04-19 1977-10-27 Kyowa Hakko Kogyo Co Ltd Reagents for permanent wave
EP0236533A1 (de) * 1984-09-14 1987-09-16 Sumitomo Pharmaceuticals Company, Limited Dauerwellenzubereitung
ATE467440T1 (de) * 2007-01-16 2010-05-15 Unilever Nv Haarstärkungszusammensetzung

Cited By (30)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4214596A (en) * 1978-07-31 1980-07-29 Helene Curtis Industries, Inc. Permanent wave system using ammonium bisulfite prewrap
US4237910A (en) * 1979-09-24 1980-12-09 Johnson Products Co., Inc. Stable hair relaxer
US4296764A (en) * 1979-12-26 1981-10-27 Chesebrough-Pond's Inc. Hair waving and straightening method
US4992267A (en) * 1988-04-28 1991-02-12 Johnson Products Co., Inc. Hair straightening composition and system
WO1991010421A1 (en) * 1990-01-16 1991-07-25 Reckitt & Colman Use of n-acyl derivatives of homocysteine to modify the structure of keratin and cosmetic compositions containing these derivatives
US5570708A (en) * 1994-04-11 1996-11-05 L'oreal Process for the permanent reshaping of keratinous material
US5655552A (en) * 1994-06-30 1997-08-12 L'oreal Process for the permanent reshaping of keratinous material
US7118736B2 (en) 2001-02-22 2006-10-10 L'oreal Hair relaxer compositions comprising at least one hydroxide compound and at least one activating agent, and methods of using the same
US20020159962A1 (en) * 2001-02-22 2002-10-31 Cannell David W. Hair relaxer compositions comprising at least one hydroxide compound and at least one activating agent, and methods of using the same
US20030037384A1 (en) * 2001-08-20 2003-02-27 Nguyen Nghi Van Compositions comprising at least one hydroxide compound and at least one oxidizing agent, and methods to straighten curly hair
US7195755B2 (en) 2001-08-20 2007-03-27 L'oreal S.A. Compositions comprising at least one hydroxide compound and at least one reducing agent, and methods for relaxing hair
US7468180B2 (en) 2001-08-20 2008-12-23 L'oreal, S.A. Compositions comprising at least one hydroxide compound and at least one oxidizing agent, and methods to straighten curly hair
US20030033677A1 (en) * 2001-08-20 2003-02-20 Nguyen Nghi Van Compositions comprising at least one hydroxide compound and at least one reducing agent, and methods for relaxing hair
US20030098034A1 (en) * 2001-11-02 2003-05-29 Browning Paul T. Hair relaxer
US6723308B2 (en) 2001-11-02 2004-04-20 Kenra, Llc Hair clarifying treatment
US20040126348A1 (en) * 2001-11-02 2004-07-01 Kenra Llc. Method and system for treating hair
US6805136B2 (en) 2001-11-02 2004-10-19 Kenra, Llc Hair relaxer
US7226585B2 (en) 2001-11-02 2007-06-05 Kenra, Llc Method and system for treating hair
US9642783B2 (en) 2014-04-02 2017-05-09 L'oreal Depilatory compositions
WO2017041903A1 (en) * 2015-09-08 2017-03-16 Kao Germany Gmbh Process for semipermanent straightening and permanent shaping hair
AU2016318280B2 (en) * 2015-09-08 2019-08-15 Kao Germany Gmbh Process for semipermanent straightening and permanent shaping hair
US12109286B2 (en) 2015-09-08 2024-10-08 Kao Germany Gmbh Process for semipermanent straightening and permanent shaping hair
FR3060341A1 (fr) * 2016-12-21 2018-06-22 L'oreal Procede de traitement des matieres keratiniques mettant en œuvre une composition comprenant un compose de type thiolactone et une composition comprenant un agent alcalin et/ou un derive amine d’alcoxysilane
FR3060342A1 (fr) * 2016-12-21 2018-06-22 L'oreal Composition comprenant un compose de type thiolactone et un solvant particulier et procede de traitement des matieres keratiniques avec la composition
FR3060343A1 (fr) * 2016-12-21 2018-06-22 L'oreal Composition aqueuse comprenant un compose de type thiolactone et une silicone et procede de traitement des matieres keratiniques avec la composition
WO2018115258A1 (en) * 2016-12-21 2018-06-28 L'oreal Process for treating keratin materials using a composition comprising a compound of thiolactone type and a composition comprising an alkaline agent and/or an amino derivative of alkoxysilane
WO2018115279A1 (en) * 2016-12-21 2018-06-28 L'oreal Aqueous composition comprising a compound of thiolactone type and a silicone and process for treating keratin materials with the composition
WO2018115273A1 (en) * 2016-12-21 2018-06-28 L'oreal Composition comprising a compound of thiolactone type and a particular solvent and process for treating keratin materials with the composition
WO2019016088A1 (en) * 2017-07-18 2019-01-24 Basf Se POLYMER FOR TREATING HAIR
US11471706B2 (en) 2017-07-18 2022-10-18 Basf Se Polymer for treating hair

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FI48894C (fi) 1975-02-10
CH486882A (de) 1970-03-15
DE1617918B2 (de) 1974-11-14
DK117731B (da) 1970-05-25
GB1187568A (en) 1970-04-08
BE697129A (de) 1967-10-17
AT285821B (de) 1970-11-10
FI48894B (de) 1974-10-31
SE323767B (de) 1970-05-11
NL6705397A (de) 1967-10-19
DE1617918A1 (de) 1971-04-15
DE1617918C3 (de) 1975-06-26
LU53453A1 (de) 1967-10-18

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