US3479710A - Textured textile material - Google Patents

Textured textile material Download PDF

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Publication number
US3479710A
US3479710A US690288A US3479710DA US3479710A US 3479710 A US3479710 A US 3479710A US 690288 A US690288 A US 690288A US 3479710D A US3479710D A US 3479710DA US 3479710 A US3479710 A US 3479710A
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Prior art keywords
yarn
rolls
roll
textured
shrinkage
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US690288A
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English (en)
Inventor
Walter Turton
Charles Mazzone
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JP Stevens and Co Inc
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JP Stevens and Co Inc
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics

Definitions

  • This invention relates to the texturizing of thermoplastic textile yarn.
  • One aspect of the present invention relates to a method of processing thermoplastic textile yarn to produce filaments thereof having variegated cross-sectional shapes at various intervals along the length thereof.
  • Another aspect of this invention relates to an apparatus for distorting a textile yarn at varlous intervals along the length thereof.
  • Yet another aspect of this invention is to produce a textured thermoplastic synthetic linear high polymer yarn such as polycaproamide (nylon 6) for use in tricot knits, hosiery, wovens, and other types of fabrics.
  • Textured yarn possesses greater bulkiness, better heat insulating power and other improved properties while still retaining many of the desirable characteristics of spun yarn. These properties were achieved by artificially cramping the man-made yarns in order to simulate the bulkiness of certain wool fibers I whose bulkiness is a direct consequence of the kinked or curled character of wool.
  • One method of considerable commercial significance for producing textured yarn involves the steps of introducing textile material in a substantially tensionless state between a set of opposed surfaces whose alternate depressed and raised areas are engaging under an applied pressure and which engage the material and each other so that the material as a result of the tensionless feed zigzags laterally just prior to being gripped and crimped.
  • This method is described in a patent, No. 3,345,718, issued on Oct. 10, 1967, to Hollihan et al. and assigned to J. P. Stevens & Co., Inc.
  • Another method of considerable commercial significance for producing textured yarn involves the steps of hot-drawing substantially undrawn thermoplastic continuous filament yarn and immediately thereafter simultaneously cooling and deforming the yarn by passing same between a pair of intermeshing gears.
  • twist-curled textured yarn is made by a 3- step process.
  • the yarn is twisted a desired amount.
  • the yarn is heatset during the second step. That is, the yarn is heated and cooled while twisted so as to render the yarn dimenionally stable until again heated to or above the setting temperature.
  • the yarn is untwisted.
  • the twist imparted and set in the yarn can be a true twist or a false twist.
  • the yarn is characterized by sharp elbows between the arms of the crimps induced therein.
  • the subject invention is not concerned with imparting a crimp into the yarn in order to increase its bulkiness but'rather the subject invention relates to a process for flattening the yarn at various intervals along the length thereof.
  • the above described prior art methods for producing crimped' yarn generally result in a product which has a markedly reduced shrinkage. Since the yarn "is in a relaxed condition, there is nothing to prevent the yarn from shrinking to its fullest extent. Even though the yarn may be subsequently straightened under tension for purposes of packaging or other textile operations, it will never regain its normal shrinkage.
  • normally drawn nlyon 6 has a shrinkage of greater than 8% and usually between 13 and 15%, whereas similar yarn which has been given a heat treatment while relaxed will have a shrinkage value between 0% and 5%.
  • Yarns that have been subjected to a knit-set treatment or crimped in a stutfer box are heated in a substantially tension-free condition to set the crimp in the yarn at which point a very low shrinkage results.
  • shrinkage as used throughout the specification and" claims is intended to mean the actual shortening of the yarn along its actual length, which phenomena is the result of exposure to heat in a relaxed condition such as by immersion in boiling water or steam.
  • residual shrinkage employed hereinafter means that after being treated the yarn is still able to be further shortened by a subsequent heat treatment.
  • yarn is used to include filaments, tows, slivers, rovings, ribbons, and the like and relates to both monofilament and multifilament yarns.
  • One object of this invention is to provide textured yarn having a variegated cross-sectional shape along the length thereof;
  • Another object of this invention is to vary the bending modulus along the length of said yarn
  • Another object of this invention is to vary the modulus or flex of thermoplastic yarns at various intervals along the length thereof;
  • Yet another object of this invention is to produce a permanently intermittently flattened synthetic linear high-polymer yarn that may be collected in package form;
  • Still another object of the present invention is the production of a synthetic linear high-polymer yarn that possesses at least 5% residual shrinkage.
  • a still further object of the present invention is to provide a process for treating synthetic linear high-polymeric yarn to produce intermittent permanent flattening along the length thereof;
  • a still further object of the present invention is to provide a process for permanently distorting synthetic linear high-polymeric yarn which is readily adaptable to existing yarn-treating systems and thereby avoid the addition of separate operating steps;
  • a still further object of this invention is the provision of a yarn-treating process which insofar as known functions atrelatively high or low operating speeds although the quality of the yarn improves as the speed increases and which is not limited in performance to prolonged exposure or dwell time between the yarn and the source of heat at the flattening point;
  • FIG. 1 is an elevational schematic view of one embodiment of an apparatus according to the invention
  • FIG. 2 is an enlarged detail showing the engagement of the rolls for deforming the textile material according to this invention.
  • FIG. 3 is an enlarged view in perspective of segments of textile products produced in accordance with the invention.
  • One of the purposes of producing a yarn, having the deformation described herein at determined intervals is to provide effects in fabrics when said yarn is knitted or woven in combination with untextured yarns.
  • the yarn of the present invention when combined with normal yarn in a tricot fabric, produces a pleasing appearance and hand by virtue of the distortion in the fabric surface.
  • These effects in the fabric are caused by a loop distortion produced during the knitting cycle due to the varying modulus of bending brought about by variation in the cross-sectional shape of the textured yarn due to the flattening of the yarn at regular or irregular intervals.
  • a residual shrinkage of at least 5% remaining in the treated yarn will assist in drawing the companion yarn out of its normal stitch pattern.
  • the textured yarns treated cannot accomplish this effectively since their shrinkage after processing is very low, namely, from 1 to 2%.
  • the yarn of the present invention having both a flattening as opposed to a crimped configuration as well as a high residual shrinkage produces a novel and desirable result in tricot fabric because of the convolutions of the yarn itself and also of the distortion of the companion yarn from a normal stitch pattern. The second effect improves as the shrinkage value increases.
  • the method of this invention comprises the steps of flattening a softened thermoplastic yarn to introduce segments of reduced cross-sectional area into the yarn; correlatively controlling the pressures and temperatures to which the yarn is subjected in order to permanently distort the yarn while maintaining a residual shrinkage of at least 5% in said flattened yarn; and collecting the yarn under a controlled tension in an orderly manner in compact package form.
  • thermoplastic yarns that have little or no distortions are pressed betWen two surfaces one of which is engraved while the other of which is substantially smooth.
  • the yarn is in a softened or plastisized condition to permanently impress into the fibers flattened distortions that are preferably closely spaced.
  • a textile product in accordance with this invention can be manufactured from a wide variety of material.
  • the textile product may be proteinaceous material, cellulosic matreial, synthetic thermoplastic polymeric material, thermosetting polymeric material, and the like.
  • Illustrative of such materials are the cellulosic fibers, cellulosic acetate fibers, the polyamides, polyesters, acrylics, and the like.
  • the preferred form of this invention is to flatten at various intervals along the length thereof a continuous monofilament yarn between two nip rolls the upper roll of which is serrated around the periphery thereof while the lower roll is substantially smooth around the periphery thereof.
  • the faces of the nip rolls are brought into close contact under a pressing relation with the monofilarnent yarn by means of weights, spring pressure, hydraulic pressure, or the like.
  • the flattened distortions present a substantially constant distribution pattern throughout any given length of the monofilament yarn prepared by the process of the invention as set forth more fully hereinbelow. However, it is possible to produce flattenings at random along the length of the monofilament yarn in cases where special effects are desired.
  • the number of flattenings per given linear inch varies inthe range from 20 to 62 and preferably from 25 to 45. If the frequency in the number of deformations is maintained within this range, a textured yarn is produced capable when knitted into a tricot fabric with an untextured yarn of providing the said fabric with a pronounced crepe effect. Moreover it is not intended to confine this invention to lengths of the textured yarns being left in original form. Deformation of the full filament length is permissible so long as there are sutficient variations, which may vary or not vary in size, in the yarn to effect the flex modulus thereof.
  • the denier size of the filaments must also be coordinated with the deformation frequency because as the denier size is increased the number of deformations per unit linear length must also be increased to provide a suitable textured yarn.
  • the fibrous textile material is removed from between the opposed surfaces in a substantially tensionless state. It may be cooled by ambient temperature or it may be positively cooled while being removed from between the opposed surfaces.
  • the material being treated is processed at a temperature and pressure at least sufficient to permit it to undergo permanent deformation and prevent excessive shrinkage in the fiber.
  • the temperatures and pressures are correlated to insure that the textured fiber maintains a residual shrinkage of at least 5%.
  • the material to be treated can be raised to an elevated temperature by any suitable means either before it passes between the surfaces which deform it or while it is physically present between the surfaces and undergoing deformation.
  • the particular temperature employed in the treatment of a particular textile filamentary material depends upon the characteristics of the material itself. For example, certain types of proteinaceous materials are readily processed at room temperature, that is, at about 20 C. On the other hand, a synthetic material such as nylon is processed at a temperature of from between to C. This process can be carried out at lower temperatures than the crimping procedure set forth hereinabove.
  • the textile material being treated is deformed between the opposed surfaces at a wide variation of applied pressures.
  • the particular amount of pressure should be at least suflicient to insure that the material passing between the opposed surfaces is made to produce flattening at various intervals along the length of the fiber. At the same time the material should not have so much pressure applied thereto that it is physically damaged by contact between the surfaces. Generally speaking, applied pressures in a range of from 240 to 400 pounds per linear inch of the roll is sufficient in most cases to achieve the desired object. On the other hand it is to be noted that the most suitable pressure necessary for processing of any particular fiber is readily determinable and is limited mainly by physical limitations of the apparatus or physical limitations of the fibrous material itself.
  • positive means for setting the material being treated are preferably, although not necessarily, utilized.
  • such means may include raising the fibrous material to an elevated temperature but also may include pretreatment with a chemical setting agent or the like.
  • any suitable chemical setting agent for the particular fiibrous material being processed can be used.
  • suitable chemical setting agents for keratin based fibers are reducing agents, alkaline reducing agents, thiols such as thioglycollic acid and saturated steam at elevated pressures.
  • thiols such as thioglycollic acid and saturated steam at elevated pressures.
  • the setting agents could be drawn from any of the chemical groups such as formaldehyde, urea formaldehyde, melamine formaldehyde, and other such thermosetting agents or chemicals.
  • any chemical which is able to supply permanent crosslinking either by covalent or by any other type of permanent bonding is suitable.
  • Thermosplastic fibers may be presoftened either by heat or the use of volatile plastisizers which would be evaporated off during the setting operation.
  • FIG. 1 an apparatus generally designated as which is suitable for treatment of textile material, in this case illustrated as fibers, in accordance with the invention.
  • a beam 11 on which is wound a large number of ends of a monofilament textile material, in this case illustrated as fibers, in accordance with the invention.
  • Beam 11 is supported by journal means, not shown, and is free-running but provided with a friction drag or other suitable device to provide uniform tension in the fibrous textile material on the beam.
  • the fibrous textile material 13 passes through a reed 15 supported by means not shown.
  • the material 13 then passes between a set of grooved surfaces illustrated as a pair of rolls 19 and 21. Although only two surfaces are illustrated in this embodiment, the number of opposed surfaces may be greater than two.
  • At least one of the rolls, preferably the one placed in the upper position 19, is provided with an engraved surface having a surface configuration which is designed to impart a flattening at various intervals along the length of the textile material 13 passing between the two surfaces.
  • it is critical that the bottom roll 21 has a smooth unembossed surface.
  • the nature of the composition of rolls 19 and 21 is not critical but should be of a material that can withstand heat and pressure in order to prevent either of them from wearing excessively.
  • Drive roll 19 is rotated by means not shown and roll 21 is driven as a result of the frictional force resulting from the pressure contact with roll 19.
  • One or both of the rolls may be heated by conventional means such as oil circulating inside the roll or rolls to facilitate the deformation of the material 13 between the rolls.
  • the take-up assembly generally designated as 23 comprises rolls 25 and 27 and is capable of maintaining the fibrous textile material 13 under controlled tension until it is cooled sufiiciently to retain substantially permanently the flattening configuration imparted thereto. Both rolls 25 and 27 are driven by means not shown. Any suitable take-up assembly may be used for this purpose; moreover the take-up rolls may comprise a set of rolls which can be greater than two in number if desirable. In addition it is to be noted that either one or both of the takeup rolls 25 and 27 can be utilized to provide positive cooling means for cooling the textile material being processed. It should be further understood, however, that the textile material being treated may be cooled sufiiciently to achieve substantially permanent configuration of the deformation therein solely as a result of ambient heat exchange. Therefore rolls 25 and 27 would not have to be adapted for cooling purposes.
  • the textured yarn is wound onto beam 30 after passing from the take-up assembly 23.
  • grooves 29 in roll 19 are helical and are at an angle of approximately 25 degrees with the axis of roll 19.
  • the grooves 29 are separated by land areas 32.
  • the helical configuration is used to avoid pattern repeats in a fabric woven or knitted from material processed in accordance with the invention.
  • the angle of the grooves is not critical and that in fact the engraved roll may have grooves which are vertical to the horizontal.
  • the depth of grooves 29 are dependent in part on the spacing thereof. That is to say, the maximum depth is limited by the requisite land area configuration needed to withstand the pressures necessary for the flattening operation.
  • the permissible depth of the grooves may range from 0.004 inch to about 0.010 inch. Naturally it is desirable to remove any and all sharp edges so as to avoid any possibility of cutting the yarn being treated.
  • the embodiment shown in FIG. 1 depicts substantially equal diameters.
  • the bottom roll can be of larger diameter than the top roll.
  • Nylon 66 yarn (polymer of adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine) was treated according to the teaching of this invention.
  • EXAMPLE 1 An apparatus similar to that shown in FIG. 1 was used, with roll 19 having 62 grooves per inch, equally spaced, and positioned at :an angle of 26 to the axis of rotation of the rolls.
  • the grooves in roll 19 have a depth of 0.008 inch.
  • Roll 19 was composed of steel and roll 21 was composed of nylon.
  • a sheet of 15/1 polyhexamethylene adipamide (type 66 nylon) containing 588 ends was flattened at a linear speed through rolls 19 and 21 at feet per minute.
  • EXAMPLE 2 An apparatus similar to that shown in FIG. 1 was used, with roll 19 having 40 grooves per inch, equally spaced, and positioned at an angle of 45 to the axis of rotation of the rolls.
  • the grooves 29 in roll 19 had a depth of 0.008 inch.
  • Rolls 19 and 21 were composed of steel and nylon respectively.
  • a single end type 66 nylon 15/1 monofilament yarn was flattened at a linear speed through rolls 19 and 21 at 150 feet per minute.
  • This textured yarn when knit as in Example 1 produced a tricot fabric exhibiting a pleasing appearance and hand by virtue of the distortion of the stitch formation.
  • a single end type 66 nylon /1 monofilament yarn was flattened at a linear speed through rolls 19 and 21 at 150 feet per minute.
  • EXAMPLE 4 An apparatus similar to that shown in FIG. 1 also heated with roll 19 having 25 grooves per inch, equally spaced and positioned at an angle of to the axis of rotation of the rolls.
  • the grooves 29 in roll 19 had a depth of 0.011 inch.
  • Rolls 19 and 21 were composed of steel and nylon respectively.
  • An apparatus similar to that shown in FIG. 1 also heated with roll 19 having 25 grooves per inch, equally spaced and positioned at an angle of 45 to the axis of rotation of the rolls.
  • the grooves 29 in roll 19 had a depth of 0.011 inch.
  • Rolls 19 and 21 were composed of steel and nylon respectively.
  • a single end type 66 nylon 15/1 monofilament yarn was flattened at a linear speed through rolls 19 and 21 at 150 feet per minute.
  • PROCEDURE (1) Loops to cm. of yarn. Tie ends together.
  • a process for texturizing a monofilament thermoplastic yarn comprising the steps of flattening a softened previously drawn monofilament thermoplastic yarn to introduce segments of reduced cross-sectional areas into the yarn whereby said yarn exhibits a variation in bending modulus along the length thereof; correlatively controlling the pressures and temperatures to which the yarn is subjected in order to effect permanent distortion of the yarn while maintaining a residual shrinkage of at least 5% in said flattened yarn, and collecting the textured yarn under a controlled tension so as to eliminate any further drawing thereof in an orderly manner in compact package form, whereby a yarn having varigated cross-sectional shapes of uniform consistency located at predetermined intervals along the length thereof is produced.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
US690288A 1967-12-13 1967-12-13 Textured textile material Expired - Lifetime US3479710A (en)

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US (1) US3479710A (pt)
BE (1) BE725402A (pt)
BR (1) BR6804211D0 (pt)
CH (2) CH515355A (pt)
DE (1) DE1814324A1 (pt)
ES (1) ES360544A1 (pt)
FR (1) FR1591257A (pt)
GB (1) GB1247023A (pt)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3673650A (en) * 1969-05-19 1972-07-04 Bemberg Spa Method for producing a thermoplastic synthetic yarn having a latent crimp
US3802174A (en) * 1970-08-26 1974-04-09 Schubert & Salzer Maschinen Method and apparatus for producing of staple fibre yarn
US5806775A (en) * 1996-07-16 1998-09-15 Owens-Corning Fiberglas Technology, Inc. Self-supporting yarn package
US8046885B1 (en) * 2008-06-02 2011-11-01 Superba Apparatus and methods for crimping textile threads
CN116043387A (zh) * 2022-11-28 2023-05-02 江苏诚业化纤科技有限公司 一种吸湿透气仿麻锦纶纤维及制备方法

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2044135A (en) * 1928-11-21 1936-06-16 Celanese Corp Production of artificial textile materials
US2975474A (en) * 1958-06-11 1961-03-21 Du Pont Process and apparatus for preparing novelty yarns
US3069726A (en) * 1958-03-04 1962-12-25 Du Pont Process for preparing articles having sections with metallic luster alternating with sections which are clear
US3116197A (en) * 1956-08-31 1963-12-31 Du Pont Nubbed filament and dyed fabric of same
FR1462511A (fr) * 1965-11-18 1966-04-15 Onderzoekings Inst Res Procédé et dispositif pour le frisage de fils ou filés en mouvement, les fils ou filés ainsi frisés, ainsi que les produits fabriqués avec ceux-ci

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2044135A (en) * 1928-11-21 1936-06-16 Celanese Corp Production of artificial textile materials
US3116197A (en) * 1956-08-31 1963-12-31 Du Pont Nubbed filament and dyed fabric of same
US3069726A (en) * 1958-03-04 1962-12-25 Du Pont Process for preparing articles having sections with metallic luster alternating with sections which are clear
US2975474A (en) * 1958-06-11 1961-03-21 Du Pont Process and apparatus for preparing novelty yarns
FR1462511A (fr) * 1965-11-18 1966-04-15 Onderzoekings Inst Res Procédé et dispositif pour le frisage de fils ou filés en mouvement, les fils ou filés ainsi frisés, ainsi que les produits fabriqués avec ceux-ci

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3673650A (en) * 1969-05-19 1972-07-04 Bemberg Spa Method for producing a thermoplastic synthetic yarn having a latent crimp
US3802174A (en) * 1970-08-26 1974-04-09 Schubert & Salzer Maschinen Method and apparatus for producing of staple fibre yarn
US5806775A (en) * 1996-07-16 1998-09-15 Owens-Corning Fiberglas Technology, Inc. Self-supporting yarn package
US8046885B1 (en) * 2008-06-02 2011-11-01 Superba Apparatus and methods for crimping textile threads
CN116043387A (zh) * 2022-11-28 2023-05-02 江苏诚业化纤科技有限公司 一种吸湿透气仿麻锦纶纤维及制备方法

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Publication number Publication date
FR1591257A (pt) 1970-04-27
ES360544A1 (es) 1970-11-01
DE1814324A1 (de) 1969-07-31
CH515355A (de) 1971-07-30
BE725402A (pt) 1969-05-16
BR6804211D0 (pt) 1973-01-09
GB1247023A (en) 1971-09-22
CH1811068A4 (pt) 1971-07-30

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