US3230916A - Method and apparatus for forming of buttonholes - Google Patents

Method and apparatus for forming of buttonholes Download PDF

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Publication number
US3230916A
US3230916A US236496A US23649662A US3230916A US 3230916 A US3230916 A US 3230916A US 236496 A US236496 A US 236496A US 23649662 A US23649662 A US 23649662A US 3230916 A US3230916 A US 3230916A
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
fabric
needle
buttonhole
forming
lip
Prior art date
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Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US236496A
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English (en)
Inventor
Chezaud Jean Claude
Mangieri Dominique
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Rhodiaceta SA
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Rhodiaceta SA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Rhodiaceta SA filed Critical Rhodiaceta SA
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Publication of US3230916A publication Critical patent/US3230916A/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B37/00Devices incorporated in sewing machines for slitting, grooving, or cutting
    • D05B37/02Slitting or grooving devices
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H25/00Appliances or methods for marking-out, perforating or making buttonholes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H25/00Appliances or methods for marking-out, perforating or making buttonholes
    • A41H25/02Buttonhole shears
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B37/00Devices incorporated in sewing machines for slitting, grooving, or cutting
    • D05B37/04Cutting devices
    • D05B37/10Cutting devices with heated tools

Definitions

  • the buttonholes are formed by means of special sewing machines, which first form the embroidery of that portion of the article which will be one of the lips of the buttonhole, then form a stitch, termed a stopping stitch at one end of the lip, then form the embroidery of the second lip with a return movement of the fabric and finally form a second stopping stitch.
  • This hot cutting,v when carried out. after the formation of the buttonhole, constitutes a supplementary and delicate operation which is frequently the cause of defects.
  • a method of forming a buttonhole in an article of thermoplastic fabric using a sewing machine having a stitching needle comprising embroiderin-g the stitches for forming the first lip of the buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a first direction, embroidering the stitching forming the second lip of the buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a direction opposite to the first direction and hot cutting the fabric as the stitching of the second lip is effected the means for cutting being operated slightly in arrear of the stitching needle.
  • apparatus for forming buttonholes in thermoplastic fabric comprising a sewing machine having a needle and needle plate, means for translating fabric relative to said needle and plate first in one direction and then in the opposite direction, a cutting member movable between an out-of-the-way position below said plate and an operative position in which it projects above the plate to the side of the needle which is in arrear of the needle when the fabric is translated in said opposite direction, and means for heating the cutting member, the arrangement being such that, when fabric is caused to move in one direction, the cutting 3,233,916 Patented Jan.
  • the means for translating the fabric may take any suitable form.
  • they may take the form of feed means as illustrated in United States Patent No. 2,421,712 to Nichols issued June 3, 1947.
  • the cutting member is preferably fixed on a resilient support disposed on the needle plate and emerges through an opening formed in the latter. Heating thereof is advantageously controlled by the working cycle of the sewing machine so as to be set in operation with the start of the formation of the second lip of the buttonhole and to be stopped as soon as this operation is completed.
  • the method and apparatus according to the invention have the advantage of not complicating the working zone on the machine, since the cutting member is preferably located on the needle plate and it is no longer necessary to provide supplementary members maintaining the position of the two lips of the buttonhole during the formation thereof. In addition, this formation is carried out in a better manner, since it is made before the hot cutting of the fabric. Any danger of slipping of the fabric during the operation is thus avoided.
  • FIGURES 1 and 2 show diagrammatically a section of part of apparatus according to this invention, and illustrate respectively the position of the cutting member of such apparatus during the formation of the first lip and the second lip of the buttonhole and
  • FIGURE 3 is a diagram of the electric control circuit for the heating of the cutting member of the apparatus, the diagram also showing a number of the parts of the apparatus in detail and the relative positions of these parts in the apparatus.
  • FIGURES 1 and 2 the heated cutting member indicated by the reference 1 is mounted on a resilient support 2, enclosed in the opening 3 formed in the lower face of the needle plate 4 of a sewing machine.
  • the fabric T passes, as shown, between the needle plate and the usual presser foot 5.
  • the cutting member which is not heated, is urged into the opening 3 by the pressure of the fabric.
  • the fabric is moved by feed means such as those of aforementioned US. Patent No. 2,421,712, in a first direction as indicated by the arrow 17.
  • the heated cutting member is urged by its resilient support against the fabric and causes the melting of fabric over the entire length of the buttonhole.
  • the fabric is moved by the feed means in the opposite direction as indicated by the arrow 18.
  • the cutter 1, during this movement is in arrear of the needle hole 16 through which the needle of the sewing machine passes.
  • FIGURE 3 shows a buttonholing machine 6 of a type known per se and of which only the outline has been shown for greater simplicity.
  • the main members controlling the heating of the cutting member are shown separately and in diagrammatic form to a larger scale.
  • a 3-phase supply source is adapted to be connected to a supply circuit 8 of the machine via a main switch 9.
  • Two of the phases supply the primary of a transformer 10 included in the heating circuit of the cutting member, which is connected to two conducting elements 7 and 7 these being insulated from the needle plate and connected to the secondaryof the transformer 10.
  • Also included in the heating circuit are a switches 12 and 13.
  • the first micro-switch 12 which is connected to a lever 14 controlling the running of the machine, disconnects the heating circuit when the machine is stopped. Thus, in the event of the thread breaking or any accident, the operator can manually control the machine and repair the damage Without the cutting member becoming operative.
  • the second micro-switchlS is connected to a cam 15 controlling the automatic production of the buttonhole.
  • the switch 11 is closed manually and lever 14 actuated to close the micro-switch 12.
  • the cam closes micro-switch 13, completing the circuit and thus heating the cutting member 1.
  • the cam opens micro-switch 13 thus cutting off the heating.
  • a method of forming a buttonhole in an article of thermoplastic fabric using a sewing machine having a stitching needle comprising embroidering the stitches for forming the first lip of the buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a first direction, em'broidering the stitching forming the second lip of the 'buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a direction opposite to the first direction and hot cutting the fabric as the stitching of the second lip is effected the means for cutting being operated slightly in arrear of the stitching needle.
  • a method of forming a buttonhole in an article of thermoplastic fabric using a sewing machine having a stitching needle comprising embroidering the stitches for forming the first lip of thevbuttonhole.
  • Apparatus for forming a buttonh-ole in thermoplastic fabric comprising a sewing machine having a needle and needle plate, means for translating fabric relative to said needle and plate first in one direction and switch 11 and two micro then in the opposite direction, a cutting member movable between an out-of-the-waypositionbelowsaid plate and an operative position in which it projects above the plate to the side of the needle which is in arrear of the needle when the fabric is translated in said opposite direction, and means for heating said cutting member, means for moving said cutting member into its operative position and control means operable on said heating means and coupled to said means for translating said fabric so as to actuate said heating means when said fabric is being translated in said opposite direction.
  • Apparatus for forming buttonholes in thermoplastic fabric such. apparatus comprising a sewing machine having a needle; a needle plate disposed beneath said needle; means defining an aperture in said needle plate; a cutting member disposed beneath said plate and on one side thereof a spring urging said cutting member through said aperture; electrical heating means for heating said cutting member; means for translating fabric over said plate from said needle in a direction towards said cutting member; further means for translating fabric in the direction opposite to-said direction and control means effective to cause said heating means to heat said cutting member on operation of said further means.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
  • Materials For Medical Uses (AREA)
US236496A 1961-11-13 1962-11-09 Method and apparatus for forming of buttonholes Expired - Lifetime US3230916A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR878704A FR1313177A (fr) 1961-11-13 1961-11-13 Procédé et dispositif pour la confection des boutonnières

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US3230916A true US3230916A (en) 1966-01-25

Family

ID=8766544

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US236496A Expired - Lifetime US3230916A (en) 1961-11-13 1962-11-09 Method and apparatus for forming of buttonholes

Country Status (8)

Country Link
US (1) US3230916A (xx)
BE (1) BE624651A (xx)
CH (1) CH386218A (xx)
ES (1) ES282524A1 (xx)
FR (1) FR1313177A (xx)
GB (1) GB984836A (xx)
NL (1) NL285023A (xx)
OA (1) OA01607A (xx)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3380416A (en) * 1966-05-18 1968-04-30 Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Thread cutting device
US20120272883A1 (en) * 2011-04-26 2012-11-01 Tokai Kogyo Mishin Kabushiki Kaisha Heat Cutting Device For Embroidery Sewing Machine

Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1640283A (en) * 1927-08-23 Method of forming stitched buttonholes
US2421712A (en) * 1943-01-09 1947-06-03 Reece Corp Buttonhole sewing machine
US2592463A (en) * 1946-10-10 1952-04-08 Warner Brothers Co Machine for cutting, processing, and/or seaming fabric or like sections and product thereof
DE847582C (de) * 1945-12-06 1952-08-25 Kasy Aktiebolag Verfahren und Vorrichtung zum Anbringen von Knopfloechern in Kleidungsstuecken aus thermoplastischem Material und Kleidungs-stueck mit solchen Knopfloechern
GB715154A (en) * 1952-03-05 1954-09-08 Autoseam Ltd Improved method and apparatus for joining textile fabrics
US2762323A (en) * 1951-10-23 1956-09-11 Bernard Silvere Serge Louis Device for assembling fabrics of synthetic material such as superpolyamide
US2780193A (en) * 1953-12-03 1957-02-05 Singer Mfg Co Methods of producing piped garment openings
FR1166478A (fr) * 1956-11-05 1958-11-12 Perfectionnements aux machines à faire les boutonnières
US2874660A (en) * 1957-05-03 1959-02-24 Holland Albert Attachment for a buttonhole stitching machine
GB878414A (en) * 1958-03-10 1961-09-27 Harrimonde Ltd Improvements in or relating to buttonholes

Patent Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1640283A (en) * 1927-08-23 Method of forming stitched buttonholes
US2421712A (en) * 1943-01-09 1947-06-03 Reece Corp Buttonhole sewing machine
DE847582C (de) * 1945-12-06 1952-08-25 Kasy Aktiebolag Verfahren und Vorrichtung zum Anbringen von Knopfloechern in Kleidungsstuecken aus thermoplastischem Material und Kleidungs-stueck mit solchen Knopfloechern
US2592463A (en) * 1946-10-10 1952-04-08 Warner Brothers Co Machine for cutting, processing, and/or seaming fabric or like sections and product thereof
US2762323A (en) * 1951-10-23 1956-09-11 Bernard Silvere Serge Louis Device for assembling fabrics of synthetic material such as superpolyamide
GB715154A (en) * 1952-03-05 1954-09-08 Autoseam Ltd Improved method and apparatus for joining textile fabrics
US2780193A (en) * 1953-12-03 1957-02-05 Singer Mfg Co Methods of producing piped garment openings
FR1166478A (fr) * 1956-11-05 1958-11-12 Perfectionnements aux machines à faire les boutonnières
US2874660A (en) * 1957-05-03 1959-02-24 Holland Albert Attachment for a buttonhole stitching machine
GB878414A (en) * 1958-03-10 1961-09-27 Harrimonde Ltd Improvements in or relating to buttonholes

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3380416A (en) * 1966-05-18 1968-04-30 Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Thread cutting device
US20120272883A1 (en) * 2011-04-26 2012-11-01 Tokai Kogyo Mishin Kabushiki Kaisha Heat Cutting Device For Embroidery Sewing Machine

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB984836A (en) 1965-03-03
ES282524A1 (es) 1963-05-16
CH386218A (fr) 1964-12-31
BE624651A (xx)
NL285023A (xx)
FR1313177A (fr) 1962-12-28
OA01607A (fr) 1969-09-20

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