US3204351A - Shoe welt - Google Patents

Description

Sept. 7, 1965 F. L. SHEA 3,204,351

SHOE WELT Filed June 1'7. 1964 INVENTOR.

FRANCIS L. SHEA BY mum Gamm ATTORNEYS United States Patent f 3,204,351 SHOE WELT Francis L. Shea, Wollaston, Mass, assignor to Barbour welting Company, Inc., Brockton, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Filed June 17, 1964, Ser. No. 375,843 3 Claims. (Cl. 36-78) The invention has for a further object to provide a novel and improved method of making a shoe welt of the type specified wherein two shoe welts are produced simultaneously from a grain leather fillet in a novel and economical manner.

With these general objects in view and such others as may hereinafter be described, the invention consists in the shoe welt and method of making the same, hereinafter described and particularly defined in the claims at the end of this specification.

In the drawings illustrating the preferred embodiment of the invention:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a grain leather fillet from which the present welts are produced;

FIGS. 2, 3, 4 and 5 are perspective views illustrating the sequence of steps followed in producing two shoe welts from the fillet shown in FIG. 1;

FIG. 6 is a perspective view showing the inner edge slashed or slitted to facilitate bending the welt in its application around a curved portion of the shoe; and

FIG. 7 is a similar view showing a modified form of welt wherein the inner edge is serrated to facilitate bend ing of the welt.

In general the present invention contemplates a novel shoe welt particularly adapted for use in cement processed shoes and which presents a grain surface along the upper, side edge and bottom of the welt extension on one marginal edge and provides a tapered flesh flange along the other marginal edge adapted to provide an eflicient and secure cement bond between the welt and the upper of the shoe. The present invention further contemplates a novel method of producing two shoe welts of the character specified from a grain leather fillet of suitable width which includes the steps of cutting marginal recessed portions in the flesh side, leaving two grain surfaced flaps which may be folded and cemented into the recessed portions to provide grain covered marginal edges. Thereafter, a thin grain ribbon is cut from the up er surface, the out being of a width such as to leave marginal grain surfaced welt extension portions. The fillet is then cut longitudinally to provide two welts, the cut being made at an angle in a manner such as to provide tapered or feathered flesh surfaced flanges extending from each welt extension.

Referring now to the drawings, 10 represents a grain leather fillet of substantial width having a grain surface 12 and a flesh surface 14. The first step in the manufacture of two welt strips from the fillet 10 is to remove stepped marginal strips 16, 18 from the flesh side of the fillet to provide recessed portions 20, 22 in the underside of the fillet and laterally extended grain flap portions 24, 26 as illustrated in FIG. 2. In practice the dimensions of the fillet and the stepped portions cut from the marginal edges may vary to produce welting strips of a size to meet the individual needs of the shoe manufacturer. In the illustrated example, the fillet 10 may be about A; of an inch in thickness and 1 /8 inches in width, and the 3,204,351. Patented Sept. 7, 1965 marginal cuts may comprise similar incisions in opposing marginal edges 28 and 29. Thus, as illustrated in FIG. 2, an incision is made in the edge 28 starting at a point about nd of an inch below the grain surface 12 and continuing inwardly along a line 30 parallel to the grain surface a distance of about of an inch from the edge 28. The incision is continued downwardly along a line 32 at right angles to the line 30 for a distance of about th of an inch, then at right angles to the line 32 along a line 34 parallel to the grain surface for a distance of nds of an inch, and finally along a line 36 providing a shoulder extending downwardly at right angles to the line 34 through to the underside or flesh surface 14 of the fillet. An identical incision is made from the opposite marginal edge 29 to provide the stepped recesses 20, 22 and the laterally extended grain flap portions 24, 26 as described.

The next step in the production of two welting strips from a fillet, as shown in FIG. 3, is to apply cement to the underside of the flap portions and to the recessed portions. The grain flap portions 24, 26 are then folded downwardly over the adjacent stepped and recessed edges to present the free edges of the flaps in abutting engagement with the recessed shoulder 36 to provide grain covered marginal edges with the portions of the flaps folded around the underside of the fillet flush with the flesh surface 14. The fillet may and preferably will be molded in this condition to set the cement and shape the marginal edges to assume a rounded form.

As illustrated in FIG. 4, the next step in producing the present shoe welts is to remove a thin grain ribbon 33 about 4 thick and wide from the central portion of the upper grain surface 12 providing a flesh groove 40 having opposed groove walls 42, 44 and leaving grain covered marginal portions 45. The fillet thus prepared is then cut to provide two shoe welt-s by making an angular incision extending from a point 46 in the flesh underside of the fillet substantially in vertical alignment with the edge of the groove wall 44 and extending diagonally along a line 48 terminating at the bottom of the groove wall 42 as shown in FIG. 5. This operation provides two substantially identical shoe welts each having a grain covered welt extension or lateral head 50 and a feathered or tapered flesh flange 52 having upper and lower flesh surfaces adapted for use in cement processed shoes.

In order to facilitate bending of the welt strip around the curved portions of the shoe, the flesh flange 52 may be provided with spaced diagonal slits 54 providing overlapping flange portions 56 which will slide over one an-) other when the welt strip is bent around a curve as shown in FIG. 6. In a modified form of wel-t shown in FIG. 7, the same purpose is achieved by forming serrations 58 in the flesh flange 52. As also shown in FIG. 7, the grain edge of the welt extension or head 50 may be provided with spaced V-shaped vertical cuts 60 or other designs for decorative purposes.

From the above description it will be seen that the present invention provides a novel shoe welt having a grain covered welt extension and a tapered flesh flange particularly adapted for use in the manufacture of cement processed shoes. It will be further observed that the present invention also provides a novel and economical method of producing two shoe welts of the character specified simultaneously from an initial width of grain leather fillet which is substantially less than the combined width of two narrower fillets formerly required for producing shoe welts of the type specified by virtue of the diagonal cut separating the fillet into two welts which provides complementary tapered flesh flanges, thus effecting a substantial saving in the amount of leather used in producing the welts.

While the preferred embodiment of the invention has been herein illustrated and described, it will be underwithin the scope of the following claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is: 1. A shoe welt of the character described having a grain covered welt extension along one marginal edge provided by an integral cover flap extending from the upper grain surface and Wrapped around the edge and a portion of the bottom surface of the welt extension, the

underside of said welt extension having a marginal recess '1 flesh flange being Serrated to facilitate bending of the and the free end of said flap fitted into and cemented in said recess to provide a flush bottom surface, and a tapered flesh flange along the other marginal edge.

2. A shoe welt of the character described having a grain covered Welt extension along one marginal edge provided by an integralcover flap extending from the upper grain surface and wrapped around the edge and a portion of the bottom surface of the welt extension, the underside of said welt extension having a marginal recess and the free end of said flap fitted into and cemented in 20 said recess to provide a flush bottom surface, and a tapered flesh flange along the other marginal edge, said tapered flesh flange being provided with spaced diagonal slits to permit overlapping of adjacent portions of the flesh flange to facilitate bending of the welt around curve portions of a shoe.

3. A shoe welt of the character described having a grain covered welt extension along one marginal edge provided by an integral cover flap extending from the upper grain surface and wrapped around the edge and a portion of the bottom surface of the welt extension, the underside of said welt extension having a marginal recess and the free end of said flap fitted into and cemented in said recess to provide a fiush bottom surface, and a tapered flesh flange along the other marginal edge, said tapered welt around curved portions of the shoe.

References Cited by the Examiner 15 UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,709,858 6/55 Vizard 3678 1 2,750,686 6/56 Vizard 36-78 2,775,829 1/57 Vizard 3678 3,007,185 11/61 Greene 12-146 3,078,601 2/63 Shea 3678 3,103,024 9/63 Greene 12146 3,113,388 12/63 Rubico .l 36-78 JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner.

FRANK J. COHEN, Examiner.

Claims (1)

1. A SHOE WELT OF THE CHARACTER DESCRIBED HAVING A GRAIN COVERED WELT EXTENSION ALONG ONE MARGINAL EDGE PROVIDED BY AN INTEGRAL COVER FLAP EXTENDING FROM THE UPPER GRAIN SURFACE AND WRAPPED AROUND THE EDGE AND A PORTION OF THE BOTTOM SURFACE OF THE WELT EXTENSIN, THE UNDERSIDE OF SAID WELT EXTENSION HAVING A MARGINAL RECESS AND THE FREE END OF SAID FLAP FITTED INTO AND CEMENTED IN SAID RECESS TO PROVIDE A FLUSH BOTTOM SURFACE, AND A TAPERED FLESH FLANGE ALONG THE OTHER MARGINAL EDGE.

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