US2247456A - Welting - Google Patents

Description

FuRy l, 1941. w c VIZARD' 2,247,456

WELTING Filed May 16, 1940 Patented July 1, 1941 2 24x456 VELTING William C. Vizard, Brockton, Mass, assignor to Barbour Welting Company, Brockton, Mass, a co-partnership composed of Perley E. Barbour, Walter G. Barbour, and Richard H. Barbour Application May 15, 194%], Serial No. 335,528 9 Ciaims. (Cl. 12-445) This invention relates to welting for shoes, and or weight notwithstanding the thickness of the to its method of manufacture, and more especially material entering into the flap. to the production of beaded welting of the type In the formation of the beads, as described imwherein a bead is formed on the upper face of the mediately above, I propose to fold the flaps Welting by folding a flop of the material of the around or about what may be termed bead fillers Welting, the bead being supported and held in or cores and another feature of the invention reposition at the inner edge of the welt extension sides in certain novel methods of production and by an integral part of the flap. use of these cores during the forming of the In order to provide sufiicient stock for forming beads as more fully described hereinafter. the flap which is folded to provide the bead, a To these and other ends the invention resides fillet must be used which is wider than the finin the novel features and combinations of parts ished Welt. In my prior Patents Nos. 2,142,228 to be hereafter described and claimed, reference and 2,153,321 I have disclosed and claimed cerbeing had to the drawing in which:

tain methods of severing and slitting a double Figure l is a perspective View of a double fillet fillet in such manner that two single fillets are showing the method of slitting the same to form formed, the total width of the two single fillets, two overlapping flaps in accordance with one prior to folding of the flaps, being greater than form of the invention;

the initial width of the double fillet before the Fig. 2 is an end view of the fillet of Fig. 1 and same is slit and severed. In this way I have been showing one of the flaps raised ready for folding able to efiect a great saving in the cost of manuto form a bead;

facture of welting as, where thousands and even Fig. 3 is an end view of the fillet of Fig. 1, in millions of yards of welting are made, the reduc this instance both flaps being raised and the bead tion of the width of a fillet even by a fraction fillers or cores assembled in place ready for foldof an inch will result in substantial reductions ing of the flaps into final position;

in cost. In certain aspects the present invention Fig. 4 is an end View of the fillet of Fig. 1 but may be regarded as an improvement over my showing the beads completely shaped ready for prior patents and has as one of its principal obcutting of the fillet along a central longitudinal iects an improved method of manufacture of line into two strands of welting; beaded welting from a double fillet wherein still Fig. 5 is a perspective View of a core piece further savings in stock are efiected. showing a method of slitting the same to form A feature of the invention resides in a method two lengths of stock suitable for forming the of slitting and severing a double fillet of stock to fillers or cores of the beads of Fig.

form two strands of welting wherein the width of Fi 5 iS an Grid V ew Of a fil et Similar to that the double fillet used is reduced to a minimum of Fig. 1 but illustrating another method of cut and is no greater than the combined widths of the ng the dfiu fillet in alo i l na d ec o two strands of finished welting formed thereto form two single fillets together with a length from. of stock suitable for formation of the fillers or Welting for shoes is commonly made out of cores of the beads;

grain leather and one of the further objects of g- 7 i a perspective View illustrative o t e the invention is to bring about a, form of beaded -f=) manner in which the stock of Fig. 6 is slit to form welting and a method of making the same wherethe two fillers or cores for the beads;

in two strands of the same made from a double 's a perspective w Of a double fillt fillet may be provided with beads, as ell s elt similar to Fig. 1 but illustrating a modified methextensions, having substantially uniform grain 0d of slitting and cutting the fillet longitudinally leather surfaces capable of matching the finish to form two single fillets; of the upper leather. Fig. 9 is a perspective view illustrative of the In order that the inner or sewing edge of the further treatment of the single fillet at the left welting may not be unduly weakened by the of Fig. 8 prior to forming-up of the bead; formation of the flap which is folded to form the ig- 1 1's a V ew S a to g. 9 but illustrative head, as well as to preserve grain leather surfaces .39 of the further treatment of the single fillet at the on the beads, it is proposed herein to make the right of F g- 8 prior to forming-up 0 t e a flaps relatively thin and one of the further feaand tures of the invention resides in a form of bead F g. 11 s a perspective w a ve of the and method of making the same wherein the Welting after final molding as produced from the bead may be given a desired shape and thickness single fillet at the left of Fig. 8.

Referring now to the drawing and especially at present to Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive which are illustrative of one method of practising the improved method of manufacture of the invention, the reference numeral indicates, in general, a double fillet of grain leather to be severed into two single fillets each of which is fashioned into a strand of beaded welting, it being understood that although as shown the fillet 20 is provided with an upper surface 2| of grain leather, the principles of the invention may be applied to less costly welting materials as well as to grain leather.

The fillet 29 has a width which is twice the width of either of the similar individual strands of welting to be fashioned therefrom and in accordance with the invention is first slit longitudinally and generally centrally of its width to form two overlapping fiaps 22 and 23 one of which is joined to the fillet along what will be the inner edge ofv the welt extension of one of the strands of welting to be formed from the fillet, while the other flap is joined to the fillet at the inner edge of the extension of the other strand of welting. It will be observed that the flaps 22 and 23 are substantially coextensive in width, that is to say, prior to folding. of the flaps each extends across the fillet substantially the full width of the other, each flap, in the instance shown; tapering towards its outer or free end or edge.

Any suitable form of knife or knives may be used to slit the fillet to form the flaps 22 and 23, the fillet being slit or out along a transverse line 24 parallel to the upper surface 2i, to form the bottom face of flap 23, while the fillet is out along an upwardly sloping transverse line 25 to form the bottom face of flap 22 and upper face of flap 23.

The depth of the cut 24 beneath the upper or grain surface 2| of the fillet will vary in accordance with the thickness of the fillet but normally will be markedly less than one-half of the thickness thereof, lying either in or immediately below the fine grain texture at the grain surface, the cut 25 being sharply inclined with respect to said surface and emerging therethrough along a line just inside the welt extension at the right of Fig. 1. When the fillet is made of grain leather the upper face of the flap 22 will, of course, have a grain surface, while due to the fact that the cut 25 lies almost wholly within the fine grain texture at or near the upper surface 2|, the upper face of flap 23 will have a texture not difi ering greatly from that of flap 22.

After the simple cutting or slitting operations described above, the flaps are ready for forming-up into beads without further treatment and those skilled. in the art will readily recognize the great simplicity of these preliminary operations as compared to prior methods, the elimination of further cutting or slitting steps resulting in a considerable saving in time and expense; moreover, it will be observed that there is no waste stock. 7

The flaps are now broken upwardly and backwardly into the positions illustrated in Fig. 3 whereupon the head fillers or cores 25 and 2"! may be set in place in the angles formed between the flaps 22 and 23 and the shelf 28. formed by the parallel cut 24, the fiaps being folded or molded around the bead cores into the position shown more particularly in Fig. 4, the thin outer ends of the flaps being pressed into contact with the shelf 23. It will be under stood that the cores 26 and 21 are cemented in place in the angles formed by the erected fiaps while the latter are cemented not only to the cores but to the shelf 28 as well.

The channels 29 and 30, for the inseam stitches, may be out either before or after the fillet is out along the central vertical line iii to form the two strands 3'2 and 33 of finished welting.

The bead cores may vary according to the final shape of the bead desired, those illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4 being conveniently formed out of a strand of stock 34 (Fig. 5) of square crosssectional shape, the stock being slit along a diagonal line 35 to form the two cores of triangular cross-sectional shape.

The form of the invention shown in. Fig. 6 differs principally from that of Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive in that, before the beads are formedup, the two strands of welting 35 and 31 are severed from one another by a central longitudinally directed inverted V-shape out which removes from the fillet a length of stock 38 of triangular cross-sectional shape which may be slit v along the line 39 to form the bead cores. In this form of the invention the bead cores are not only formed from the fillet itself but the removal of the material from the inside lower corners of the sewing edges 40 and 4| leaves the latter desirably somewhat more flexible.

Figs. 8 to 11 inclusive illustrate a modified method not only of cutting a double fillet into two single fillets with. bead forming flaps but likewise in the method of production of the bead cores. In this case a double fillet 42, of a width equal to the combined widths of the two strands of finished welting fashioned therefrom, is first severed along its central line as to produce the two single fillets 43 and M each of sufficient width for forming up a grain covered bead. The severing is accomplished by a three part out comprising a lower vertical bar 45, a horizontal center bar 66 and an oblique upper bar il, the latter emerging through the upper grain surface 48 while the vertical bar emerges through the lower flesh surface 49. The buried center bar 46 lies at a plane below the upper or grain. surface 48 a distance less than half the thickness of the fillet and preferably immediately below the fine grain texture of said surface and extends horizontally from the upper end of the vertically directed bar a distance to the right to be hereinafter set forth, the upper bar extending obliquely upwardly from the outer end of the center bar, the upper bar being about twice as long as the center bar.

The lower vertical bar passes longitudinally through the fillet centrally of the width of the latter and in cooperation with the other bars divides the fillet into two single fillets 43 and 44, each having an outwardly extending tapered lip at its upper inner edge. The amount of extension of these lips will vary in accordance with the width of the welting, those of A welting, for example, extending outwardly 1%". It will be observed that the lip 5|! of the fillet 43 is provided with an upper face in the plane of the upper surface of the fillet and a lower face which slopes downwardly and inwardly, whil the lip 5| of fillet 24 is provided with an upper face which slopes downwardly and outwardly and a lower face which is parallel to the upper surface of the fillet.

To prepare either of said single fillets for forming-up into beaded welting as shown in Fig. 11, a single further cutting operation is required, each fillet being slit horizontally inwardly at the bottom edge of its respective lip to a point adjacent the inner edge of the welt extension, the knife used for said cutting operation having a cutting edge suitable for forming a longitudinally directed groove 52 in the upper face of the shelf 57, the groove being half way between the lateral edges of said face and said knife, in cutting the groove, leaving a bead Ed on the under sides of the flaps 55 and 56, which beads serve as fillers or cores for th welt beading when the latter is formed-up.

It will be noted that in this case the finished beads are somewhat smaller than in the forms shown in Figs. 1 to 7 inclusive. For this reason the flaps do not need to be as wide as those of Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive and Fig. 6. Since the lip 58 only partially overlies the lip 5!, the latter may have an intact grain surface of suflicient area to completely cover the exposed surfaces of the bead formed from the flap 55. Upon completing the formation of the flaps '55 and 56 by the lateral incisions, the flaps are broken upwardly and backwardly for application of cement whereupon the moulder may set the cores 54 back into the corners formed by the flaps and the shelves 5? and 58, simultaneously folding the flaps and pressing the tapered outer edges thereof down into place on the shelves, crushing the welt to the final shape shown in Fig. 11. Preferably the grooves 52 are removed and the channels 59, for the inseam stitches, formed by molding the channels 59 in the welting, the material thereof being forced inwardly to fill the grooves 52.

In each of the several forms of the invention illustrated, the double fillet is of a width equal to the combined widths of the finished strands of Weltlng formed therefrom and it will be observed that the tapered flaps, when cemented in place, form inner sewing edges on the Welting which are somewhat thinner than the welt extensions and taper outwardly in a direction forming suitable attachment faces for a lasted i upper.

The invention in its several forms is characterized by the fact that the flaps may be varied considerably in width to suit the size and weight of the beads to be formed and in all cases may be carried out with a minimum width of fillet and a complete lack of wasted stock. Those skilled in the art will recognize that through the use of bead fillers or cores of proper cross-sectional shapes, the shapes of the beads may be greatly varied without, however, the use of complicated cutting and slitting operations which have heretofore been necessary in the art.

While I have shown and described certain preferred forms which the invention may take, it will be understood that the same is not limited to the precise details described but is capable of variation and modification within the scope of the appended claims.

What is claimed as new, is:

1. The method of producing two welt strips from a double fillet of less width than the combined width of stock in single fillets required for the two beaded welts made from said strips, each strip being of greater overall width than one-half of the width of said fillet, comprising severing the fillet longitudinally by co-operating cuts including a cut lying in a plane parallel tothe upper face of the fillet and extending at either side of the center line of the fillet to points adjacent the inner edges of the welt extensions of the welt strips, a cut lying in a plane oblique to the upper face of the fillet and extending upwardly from the parallel cut and emerging from said upper face alon a line which defines the overall width of one of the singlev fillets, the oblique cut intersecting the parallel cut to define the width of the other fillet, and a cut extending from the parallel cut at the center of the fillet towards and emerging through the bottom face of the fillet.

2. The method according to claim 1 in which the oblique cut intersects the parallel cut intermediate the ends of the latter.

3. The method according to claim 1 in which the oblique out extends substantially equal distances towards either side of the center line of the fillet and intersects the parallel cut intermediate the ends of the latter.

4. The method according to claim 1 in which the oblique cut intersects the parallel cut at one of the side dges of the latter.

5. The method according to claim 1 in which the oblique cut extends substantially equal distances towards either side of the center line of the fillet and intersects the parallel cut at one of the side edges of the latter.

6. The method according to claim 1 in which the parallel cut lies closer to the upper face of the fillet than to the lower face.

7. The method according to claim 1 in which the last named cut is of inverted !shape, the apex of the lying in the parallel cut.

8. The method according to claim 1 in which the last named cut is normal to the bottom face of the fillet and midway between the side edges thereof.

9. The method of making beaded welting which comprises forming a flap by slitting the fillet longitudinally through an edge face of the fillet substantially parallel to the upper face thereof, and simultaneously forming a longitudinal rib on the innerface of the flap and a groove on the opposed face of the shelf underlying the fiap, the unslit portion of the fillet forming the welt extension, lifting the flap and cementing the exposed faces, folding the flap and simultaneously forcing the rib into the corner formed by the lifted flap toform a bead and pressing the remainder of the flap into contact with the face of the fillet formed by the slit.

WILLIAM C. VIZARD.

Images