US3093985A - Method of knitting fine gauge stockings - Google Patents

Method of knitting fine gauge stockings Download PDF

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Publication number
US3093985A
US3093985A US824308A US82430859A US3093985A US 3093985 A US3093985 A US 3093985A US 824308 A US824308 A US 824308A US 82430859 A US82430859 A US 82430859A US 3093985 A US3093985 A US 3093985A
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Prior art keywords
needles
knitting
yarn
auxiliary
feed
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US824308A
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English (en)
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Albert M Brown
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G Stibbe and Co Ltd
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G Stibbe and Co Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/26—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B9/00—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B9/42—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles specially adapted for producing goods of particular configuration
    • D04B9/46—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles specially adapted for producing goods of particular configuration stockings, or portions thereof

Definitions

  • This invention relates to the production of stockings, composed of fine denier yarns, on fine gauge circular latch needle hose machines equipped with sinkers.
  • feed used herein is meant the complete means at a kntting station for not only feeding a yarn or thread to the needles, but also the clearing cam for advancing needles to clear, and the stitch cam for retracting the needles to knit and knockove-r, at the said station.
  • a knitting machine of the kind concerned comprises at least two feeders, viz. -a main feed, and an auxiliary feed which is adapted to be rendered operative and inoperative, according to requirements.
  • both the main feed and an auxiliary feed are in operation together during rotary motion of the machine to produce the welt, shadow welt, leg and the instep and foot bottom, whilst for the knitting of the heel and the toes, by reciprocatory motion, an auxiliary feed is conventionally rendered inoperative so that reciprocatory knitting is performed at the main feed only.
  • an auxiliary feed is conventionally rendered inoperative so that reciprocatory knitting is performed at the main feed only.
  • the last needle to clear at the said feed is retracted and draws a loop in the normal manner. Since, however, there is no following loop intermeshed with the fabric, but only a free and loose end portion of yarn, the last formed loop is no longer controlled and becomes unduly extended to produce an undesired eyelet.
  • the first loop formed at this feed becomes extended to produce an eyelet; this is because the portion of yarn, immediately preceding the first loop and previously extending from the yarn guide to the trapper, is a free and loose end.
  • the primary object of the present invention is to provide an improved and simple method, involving various procedures, of covering up the unsightly eyelet holes produced in the circumstances described.
  • the method of this invention performed on a circular hose machine of the kind herein referred to, consists of taking into the hooks of all of a group of successive needles (having thereon loops from the preceding course) the free and loose end portion of yarn adjacent to the beginning or the end of the auxiliary feed, depending on whether the latter is being introduced into or withdrawn from operation, causing these needles at the auxiliary feed, in co-operation with sinkers, to distort the said free and loose end portion of yarn into 3,093,985 Patented June 18, 1963 ice an undulatory or crimped form by drawing or measuring it into loops extending lengthwise of the needles, and, at a normal succeeding course, locking the undulatory or crimped portion of yarn into the fabric by knitting it together with the loops already retained by some of the said group of needles.
  • the precise number of needles in the aforementioned group of successive needles may, of course, vary. But approximately ten needles, variable within limits one way or the other, isquoted as a convenient number. These needles represent either the first or the last group of needles to pass through the auxiliary feed preparatory to this feed being introduced into or with drawn from operation.
  • the measured loops formed in the relevant free and loose portion of yarn with the object of distorting it to an undulatory or crimped form are not drawn through any knitted loops cast off the needles of the specified group.
  • the said needles must be prevented from clearing their loops from the preceding course so that the loops then on the latches of these needles will not be cast off but retained in the hooks of the needles together with measured loops of the undulatory or crimped portion of yarn whereby at a normal succeeding course both retained and measured loops will be cast off the relevant needles of the specified group.
  • the improved method of covering up eyelet holes can be carried out on a circular hose machine of the kind herein referred to set up to produce plain hose. It is, however, primarily the intention to perform the method on a machine set up to produce micro mesh fabric, that is to say fabric knitted on a set of needles of which spaced groups thereof clear whilst intervening needles tuck at the main feed.
  • a vve11-known arrangement of needles for this purpose involves a 3 x 1 set out, i.e. a formation and operation of jacks associated with the needles such that at the main feed spaced groups of three needles clear whilst intervening single needles tuck.
  • the examples hereinafter to be described will be confined to the knitting of such micro mesh stockings without, however, any limitation in this respect.
  • spaced, e.g. alternate, needles only of the specified group may be deliberately selected to clear and take the undulatory or crimped free end portion of yarn under their latches, the remaining intervening needles of the group retaining the said portion of yarn in their hooks.
  • spaced, e.g. alternate, needles only of the specified group may be deliberately selected to clear and take the undulatory or crimped free end portion of yarn under their latches, the remaining intervening needles of the group retaining the said portion of yarn in their hooks.
  • this deliberate selection of needles mentioned in the last preceding paragraph may be a '1 x 1 selection.
  • a 1 x 1 welt selector including a jack-raising cam adapted for action upon bottom but-ts on alternate ones of a set of jacks associated with the needles of the machine, then such a selector may be brought into commission for the purpose of effecting the special 1 X 1 selection of the specified group of needles.
  • Such a selection is naturally quite straight forward when plain hose is being produced.
  • the first course to be knitted after withdrawal of the auxiliary feed is a circular or round course, in contra-distinction to a substantially half round course produced by reciprocatory knitting as at the commencement of a heel or a toe.
  • the yarn guide, the stitch cam and the clearing cam of the auxiliary feed must be precisely timed suchwise as to produce the results hereinafter to be set forth.
  • FIGURES 1A and 1B together constitute a developed lay-out of the essential parts of the cam system of the said machine at the main and the auxiliary feeds, a few of the needles being shown in FIGURE 1A,
  • FIGURE 2 is a vertical sectional view through the cylinder of the machine and depicts one of the needles and the associated needle-actuating jack,
  • FIGURE 3 is a diagrammatic plan of the butt layout of the complementary series of instep and heel and toe needles in the machine
  • FIGURES 4 to 7 are diagrammatic representations of a portion of micro mesh stocking fabric and a few of the needles of the machine shown at successive stages of the procedure adopted when going from the leg into the heel of a stocking, and
  • FIGURES 8, 8A and 9 are three somewhat similar views showing fabric and needles respectively at the commencement and a later stage of the procedure adopted when going out of a heel into the foot of a stocking.
  • each needle 1 mounted in grooves 2 in a cylinder 3 (FIGURE 2), are provided with knitting butts 4 and with pivoted latches 5.
  • frangible selector butts 7 Certain of these butts are broken away, different ones on different jacks, according to paterning requirements. It is, however, convenient here to mention that only alternate ones of the jacks 6 have a bottom butt 7', the intervening bottom butts on the remaining jacks being broken away.
  • This 1 x 1 arrangement of the bottom selector butts is to enable the needles 1, when required, to be appropriately selected for the knitting of a welt in a manner well known to those acquainted with the art.
  • a 1 x 1 selection of the needles is required, a 1 x 1 welt selector lever 8 is so operated as to push back into the needle grooves 2 only the alternate jacks 6 provided with bottom butts 7, the remaining or intervening jacks being left forward and inoperative in the position shown in FIGURE 2.
  • Each of the jacks selected by the lever 8 and so pushed back into its groove 2 is enabled to be raised from a normal running or tuck level N to a clearing level C (FIGURE 1A) by means of a jack raising cam 9 which acts on the actuating butt 10 of the jacks 6.
  • the machine is set up to produce 3 x 1 micro mesh fabric which means that for straight forward knitting in the leg of a stocking three successive needles 1 are advanced to the level C to clear and a following single needle is permitted to remain down at the normal running or tuck level N throughout the full circle of needles. That is to say, spaced groups each of three needles clear whilst the intervening single needles merely tuck.
  • Such a 3 x 1 micro mesh division of needles is shown towards the righthand side of FIGURE 1A. This division is effected by suitable actuation of relevant selector levers of the group indicated at 11.
  • FIGURE 1A there is a forward or leg stitch cam 13 and a reverse or heel stitch cam 14.
  • a guide 15 feeds a main yarn Y to the needles at the main feed.
  • the auxiliary feed F represented in FIGURE 13 the clearing cam and the stitch cam are indicated at 16 and 17 respectively.
  • the auxiliary stitch cam is followed by a conventional upthrow cam 12.
  • An auxiliary yarn Y is fed to the needles 1 at the feed F through a yarn guide 18.
  • the needles 1 of the machine are arranged in two complementary and substantially semi-circular series.
  • FIGURE 3 there is a nearly semicircular series of heel and toe needles all furnished with long butts 4a.
  • a heel is knitted on these needles at the main feed F only by reciprocatory knitting.
  • the long butt needles are complemented by a series of instep needles having medium butts 4b, short butts 4c and extra short butts 4d (see FIGURE 2).
  • the short butts 4c are flanked at opposite sides by groups of the medium butts 4b immediately adjoining the opposite ends of the series of long butts 4a, and the extra short butts 4d are arranged in a panel in the centre of the short butts 4c.
  • All of the instep needles are, of course, raised to the idle level H known as heeling height preparatory to the knitting of a heel.
  • heeling height preparatory to the knitting of a heel.
  • FIGURE 1A instep needles at the level H, and needles at the heights N and C are clearly shown.
  • the needles 1 co-operate with sinkers 19.
  • FIGURES 4-7 of the drawings A specific procedure adopted when going from the leg into the heel of a stocking will now be described with reference principally to FIGURES 4-7 of the drawings.
  • the fabric drawn purely diagrammatically and to a greatly magnified scale, is shown as viewed from the inside of the needle cylinder 3, looking outwards during knitting. That is to say, the back of the fabric, and the backs of the needles are shown; the needles are, however, turned sideways slightly (as if drawn in perspective) so that the open latches 5 thereof will be seen.
  • FIGURES 4-7 moreover, the 3 x 1 micro mesh structure can be seen, the spaced groups each of three 5 plain knitted loops being indicated at p and the single intervening tuck stitches at t.
  • the needles to the left of the vertical line A in these figures are long butt needles, i.e. the heel and toe needles, whereas the few needles to the right of this line are instep needles which are raised to the idle level H preparatory to the knitting of a heel.
  • the auxiliary feed F is withdrawn from operation towards the end of the series of long butt heel and toe needles of which approximately the last nine or ten or so will be referred to as the specified group; this group is indicated at x in each of FIGURES 1A and 3.
  • the last needle to knit at the auxiliary feed is indicated at 11a.
  • FIGURE 4 shows the finish of the auxiliary feed yarn Y.
  • course a is knitted of the auxiliary yarn Y at the feed F
  • course b is knitted of the main yarn Y at the feeder F
  • course is again knitted of the yarn Y at feeder F, the tuck loops from this course being held on idle short butt needles whilst making the heel
  • course d is knitted of the yarn Y at F, the plain loops from the last mentioned course being held on idle short butt needles whilst making the heel
  • at e is shown the end of the last course knitted of the yarn Y at the auxiliary feed F, preparatory to commencement of the heel, the undulatory or crirnped loose end portion Y of this yarn extending across the fronts and the open latches of the uncleared needles 1 of the specified group x.
  • the 1 x 1 welt selector lever 8 Prior to the main feed F, and on the last course of knitting prior to the motion of the machine changing from rotary to reciprocatory for the knitting of the heel, the 1 x 1 welt selector lever 8 is brought into commission to over-ride the 3 x 1 set out so far as the long butt heel and toe needles of the specified group x are concerned. That is to say, when going into the heel the nine or ten (more or less) needles of the specified group are, unlike the remaining needles of the machine, in a 1 x l relation, i.e.
  • alternate needles 1b of the said group are raised to the clearing level C whilst the intervening needles 1c of the group are permitted to remain down at the normal running or tuck level N-all as clearly shown in FIGURE 5.
  • the first main feed course g of reciprocatory knitting at the commencement of the heel is now effected, the first needles to be acted upon at the main feed F being the long but-t needles of the specified group x; all of the long butt needles are, in fact, now cleared and caused to knit in a normal way at the main feed only.
  • the alternate jack raised long butt needles 1b of the specified group x will have cast off their measured loops Y formed from the free end of the auxiliary yarn Y on the last course 1'' preceding the heel.
  • the intervening long butt needles 1c of the specified group x allowed to remain down at tuck or normal running level N, these will cast oil their loops Y formed from the free end of the auxiliary yarn on the next course g, i.e. the first reciprocation course of the heel, thereby locking-in the said free end of the auxiliary ya-rn (see FIGURE 7).
  • the long butt needle 1d has been picked to idle level H as the knitting of the heel proceeds.
  • auxiliary stitch cam 17 is projected part way in opposite to the central panel of needles having extra short butts 4d so as to be ready to act on the first normally short butts 40 at the appropriate side of the said panel, whereupon the auxiliary stitch cam 17 is moved right in.
  • the last nine or ten or so needles having short butts 4c are, in this case, the needles of the specified group (indicated at z in FIGURE 3), and by suitably delaying the bringing into action of the auxiliary clearing cam 16 these needles are not advanced to clear on this course.
  • auxiliary clearing cam 16 is moved first part ,way in opposite to short butt needles in readiness to operate on the oncoming medium butts 4b and is thereupon moved fully into position to clear all needles.
  • the short butt needles of the specified group 2 are accordingly uncleared from the main feed F but receive The said needles areretracted by the auxiliary stitch cam 17 to draw measured loops Y of the free end of the auxiliary yarn Y alongside loops in the hooks of these needles drawn at the preceding course. Then, as the short butt needles of the specified group 2 are advanced by the upthrow cam 12 following the auxil iary stitch cam 17 to tuck of normal running level N, the sinkers 19 are projected forwardly to knock-over point. The beginning free end of the auxiliary yarn Y is thus distorted to an undulatory or cn'm-ped form as illustrated in FIGURE 8.
  • each of the uncleared ones 1g will have on its latch 5 a retained loop Y of the auxiliary yarn Y and also a loop drawn at the preceding main feed course k, whilst each of the cleared needles will have under its latch 5 both a loop Y of the auxiliary yarn and also a loop p drawn at the preceding main feed F.
  • the stage corresponding to the completion of the main feed course 1 following the start of the auxiliary yarn Y is illustrated in FIGURE 9. All the loops will be cast off all the needles of the specified group 1 as they next pass through the auxiliary feed F.
  • a method of knitting a stocking on a circular seamless hose knitting machine adapted to operate with rotary as well as with reciprocatory motion and comprising a circular series of independent latch needles; a set of sinkers co-operating with said needles; a main feed; an auxiliary feed having thereat a guide for feeding to the needles an auxiliary yarn, an auxiliary clearing cam and an auxiliary stitch cam; jacks arranged beneath the needles and alternate ones of which are furnished with bottom butts; a 1 x l welt selector incorporating a jack-raising cam for action upon said bottom butts, and a micro mesh selector whereby spaced groups of the needles are raised to clear whilst intervening single needles are permitted to remain down at tuck height in the production of micromesh fabric, the needles in the machine being divided into two semi-circular series having respectively long and shorter actuating butts, and the heel of the stocking being knitted on the long butt needles at the main feed only by reciprocatory knitting, the said method including the
  • a method of knitting a stocking on a circular seamless hose knitting machine adapted to operate with rotary as well as with reciprocatory motion and comprising a circular series of independent latch needles; a set of sinkers co-operating with said needles, a main feed; an auxiliary feed having thereat a guide for feeding to the needles an auxiliary yarn, an auxiliary clearing cam and an auxiliary stitch cam; jacks arranged beneath the needles and alternate ones of which are furnished with bottom butts; a 1 x 1 welt selector incorporating a jack-raising cam for action upon said bottom butts, and a micro mesh selector whereby spaced groups of the needles are raised to clear whilst intervening single needles are permitted to remain down at tuck height in the production of micromesh fabric, the needles in the machine being divided into two semi-circular series having respectively long, and medium and short actuating butts, the short butts being flanked at opposite sides by groups of the medium butts and having in the centre thereof a panel of
  • a method of knitting a stocking on a circular seamless hose knitting machine adapted to knit with rotary motion with knitting on at least two feeds as well as with reciprocatory motion with knitting on only one of said feeds and comprising a circular series of independent latch needles; a set of sinkers co-operating with said needles; a main feed; and auxiliary feed having thereat a guide for feeding to the needles an auxiliary yarn; jacks arranged beneath the needles and alternate ones of which are furnished with bottom butts; a l x 1 Welt selector incorporating a jack-raising cam for action upon said bottom butts, and a micro mesh selector whereby spaced groups of needles are raised to clear whilst intervening single needles are permitted to remain down at tuck height in the production of micro mesh fabric; the said method including the steps of taking into the hooks of all of a group of successive needles, having thereon loops from the preceding course, the free and loose end portion of the auxiliary yarn resulting from the termination of knitting with one of said
  • a method of knitting a stocking on a circular seamless hose knitting machine adapted to knit with rotary motion with knitting on at least two feeds as well as with reciprocatory motion with knitting on only one of said feeds and comprising a circular series of independent latch needles; a set of sinkers co-operating with said needles; a main feed; an auxiliary feed having thereat a guide for feeding to the needles an auxiliary yarn; jacks arranged beneath the needles and alternate ones of which are furnished with bottom butts, and a 1 x 1 welt selector incorporating a jack-raising cam for action upon said bottom butts; the said method including the steps of taking into the hooks of all of -a group of successive needles, having thereon loops from the preceding course, the free and loose end portion of the auxiliary yarn resulting from the termination of knitting with one of said motions during a change to knitting with the other of said motions, causing the said needles, in co-operation with sinkers at the auxiliary feed, to distort the said free

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Socks And Pantyhose (AREA)
US824308A 1958-07-01 1959-07-01 Method of knitting fine gauge stockings Expired - Lifetime US3093985A (en)

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US (1) US3093985A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
FR (1) FR1230769A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
GB (1) GB913985A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3310962A (en) * 1964-05-06 1967-03-28 Singer Co Circular knitting machine
US3662572A (en) * 1969-04-30 1972-05-16 Francesco Lonati Jack selection device for circular knitting machines
CN112267199A (zh) * 2020-11-06 2021-01-26 广东德润纺织有限公司 一种超薄吸湿透气高针距纬编双面面料及生产工艺
CN115142183A (zh) * 2021-03-31 2022-10-04 株式会社岛精机制作所 横机的选针装置及方法

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1377459A (en) * 1914-08-27 1921-05-10 Hemphill Co Stocking-knitting machine
US2525704A (en) * 1946-01-16 1950-10-10 Hanes Hosiery Mills Co Knitting machine and method
US2550880A (en) * 1948-03-20 1951-05-01 Hemphill Co Knitted fabric
US3004418A (en) * 1957-01-14 1961-10-17 Scott & Williams Inc Knitted stocking

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1377459A (en) * 1914-08-27 1921-05-10 Hemphill Co Stocking-knitting machine
US2525704A (en) * 1946-01-16 1950-10-10 Hanes Hosiery Mills Co Knitting machine and method
US2550880A (en) * 1948-03-20 1951-05-01 Hemphill Co Knitted fabric
US3004418A (en) * 1957-01-14 1961-10-17 Scott & Williams Inc Knitted stocking

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3310962A (en) * 1964-05-06 1967-03-28 Singer Co Circular knitting machine
US3662572A (en) * 1969-04-30 1972-05-16 Francesco Lonati Jack selection device for circular knitting machines
CN112267199A (zh) * 2020-11-06 2021-01-26 广东德润纺织有限公司 一种超薄吸湿透气高针距纬编双面面料及生产工艺
CN112267199B (zh) * 2020-11-06 2024-02-09 广东德润纺织有限公司 一种超薄吸湿透气高针距纬编双面面料及生产工艺
CN115142183A (zh) * 2021-03-31 2022-10-04 株式会社岛精机制作所 横机的选针装置及方法
CN115142183B (zh) * 2021-03-31 2023-07-07 株式会社岛精机制作所 横机的选针装置及方法

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FR1230769A (fr) 1960-09-20

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