US3064599A

US3064599A - Shoe sewing machines

Info

Publication number: US3064599A
Application number: US119930A
Authority: US
Inventors: Harry B Fake; Leonard S Curtin
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1959-08-28
Filing date: 1961-06-27
Publication date: 1962-11-20
Anticipated expiration: 1979-11-20

Description

Original Filed Aug. 28, 1959 Inventors Harry B. Fake Leonard S Curtz'n Fatented Nov. 2%, 1932 3 Claims. (Cl. 112-62) This invention relates to improvements in shoe sewing machines constructed and arranged to insert a seam around the lower portion of an upper along a line located in uniformly spaced relation and close to the crease between the upper and the welt, in the case of a Goodyear welt shoe, or appearing between the upper and the outsole after completion of a non-welt shoe. A shoe having such a seam is illustrated and described in a prior copending application for United States Letters Patent, Serial No. 836,693, filed August 28, 1959, now Patent No. 3,025,544, granted March 20, 1962, in the same names as the present application, of which prior application this application is a division.

The ability securely and uniformly to locate such a seam is advantageous for structural and ornamental reasons and has recently become important since provision of such a seam has gained considerable vogue as a style characteristic. As heretofore practiced, such seams have merely been sewn through the upper prior to the attachment of a welt, or prior to the attachment of an outsole on a non-welt shoe at a distance from a line defining a crevice between the welt and the upper or defining an angular break in the upper about the shoe bottom. Under current procedure, the insertion'of the stitches in a uniform row around the shoe and at a uniform distance from the crevice or break line of the lasted shoe is entirely dependent upon the skill and judgment of the operator of the sewing machine.

The principal object of the present invention is to provide an improved lockstitch sewing machine capable of inserting a seam uniformly positioned relative to a welt, in the case of a Goodyear welt shoe, or the bottom break line angle of the upper in the case of a non-welt shoe, and securely inserted through the portion of the upper which overlies the edge face of the insole, through the insole, and into the channel between the rib and the in sole, said improved lockstitch sewing machine having stitch forming instrumentalities including a curved hook needle, work supporting means adapted to engage within the channel between the rib and the insole to maintain the shoe against the thrust of the needle, and guide means adapted to engage the bulging last supported portion of the shoe upper thereby to clamp the Work against the work supporting means and to enable the shoe to be guided relatively to the stitch forming devices in a manner such as to maintain the break line of the upper in a shoe, at a generally uniform distance from the operating point of the needle, thereby insuring insertion of the stitches in an effective manner.

The above and other features of the invention, including novel combinations of parts and details of construction will now be described by reference to the accompanying drawings, and more particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

FIG. 1 is a detail View in front elevation of the stitch forming instrumentalities of a lockstitch sewing machine fitted in accordance with the invention for sewing a seam around the lower portion of a shoe upper;

FIG. 2 is a detail view in side elevation of the parts shown in FIG. 1, the shoe being shown in cross-section.

FIG. 3 is a perspective detail View on an enlarged scale of a work support and a presser foot of the machine shown in FIG. 1 in proper co-operative relation with a needle in the machine to guide the insertion of an effective seam in a shoe;

FIG. 4 is a View in cross section of a portion of an alternate non-welt shoe design which can be produced by utilization of the improved lock stitch sewing machine, said shoe consisting of an upper temporarily secured in lasted position to a detachable rib and subsequently secured to the insole by a seam sewn by the machine of the invention;

FIG. 5 is a view of the shoe shown in FIG. 4 after removal of the temporary rib and attachment of an outsole;

FIG. 6 is a partial cross-sectional view of a welted shoe, the upper of which has been secured in lasted position by a chain stitch seam to a two-ply rib attached to an unchanneled insole, and further united to the insole by a lock stitch seam sewn by means of the improved sewing machine, the shoe having been completed by attaching an outsole; and

FIG 7 is a section along the line VII-VII of FIG. 3.

The improved sewing machine disclosed herein has stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle 50, a work support member or table, generally indicated by the reference numeral 56, and a presser foot 58 having a lip 63 integral therewith. The machine is substantially the same, except for the improved work support and presser foot described herein, as that disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,271,611, granted February 3, 1942, upon application of Fred Ashworth et al., and has a looper 52 (FIG. 2) and a loop taker or shuttle 54 (FIG. 1) in addition to other stitch forming devices.

The novel work support member or table 56 is formed with a work-engaging surface 60 adapted to act in opposition to the thrust of the needle 59, a face 62 positioned at an acute angle to the work-engaging surface 69 on the work-support member, the intersection of said work-engaging surface 69 and said face 62 forming a ridge 64 with an apex, the line of which intersects the path of the curved needle 5% and with an aperture 65 formed between said work-engaging surface 60 and said face 62 to permit the passage of said needle 59.

The presser foot 58 is provided with a portion having a concave curvature 66 substantially conforming to the configuration of the bulging last supported portion of a shoe upper, said concave portion acting to engage the bulging portion of the upper and to clamp the insole firmly against the work-engaging surface 60 of the work support member 56. The presser foot has an aperture 67 therein, positioned to intersect the concave portion of the presser foot in alignment with the aperture 65 in the work support member 56, to permit the passage of the curved needle 50 and to guide the insertion of the stitches through the presser foot 58 through the bulging upper and into the channel of the insole. The presser foot is also provided with a lip 68 adapted to engage in the crease between a welt 42 and the bulging portion of an upper 26, in the case of a Goodyear welt shoe, to guide the spacing of the stitches relative to the crease, thereby to insure that the stitches of the seam will be inserted at a substantially uniform distance from the said crease. In the case of a non-welt shoe the concave curvature 66 is sufiicient to guide the shoe so long as the angle of the shoe bottom is maintained uniformly.

T 0 insert a lockstitch seam by means of the improved machine described hereinabove, the operator will present the shoe to the machine in the position illustrated in FIG. 2 and after locating the shoe on the work support 56 with the ridge 64- within the channel between a rib 69 (see FIG. 6) and the main body of a ribbed insole 20 and a clamping the shoe firmly in position by means of the presser foot, will guide the shoe with relation to the stitch forming instrumentalities in such manner as to maintain the operating point of the needle 50 at a uniform distance from the welt, in the case of a Goodyear welt shoe (FIG. 2) or an angular break line of the upper about the shoe bottom, in the case of a non-welt shoe (FIG. 4). By thus guiding the shoe, the needle 50 will be caused to insert the stitches of the seam diagonally through the bu ging portion of the lasted upper, through the insole, and into the base of the channel in the insole.

FIGS. 4 and 5 illustrate results obtained with the use of the improved sewing machine, described hereinabove, in the manufacture of flat lasted shoes with cement attached outsoles. In this construction the upper 26 is temporarily lasted to a rib or lip provided by a detachable strip 74, such as adhesive tape, attached to the margin of the insole 29 placed on the bottom of the last 22.

After the lasting of the upper, a seam 48 is laid, in a manner similar to that described above, in the channel between the lip or strip 74 and the tread surface of the insole, the stitches of the seam passing through the edge of the insole and through the portion of the upper which overlies the edge face of the insole. After sewing the seam 48, the strip 74 may be removed, as shown by the broken lines in FIG. 4, and the shoe thereafter completed in accordance with standard procedures by attaching an outsole 78 as shown in FIG. 5.

The nature and scope of the invention having been described, what we claim as new and desire to secure by 1 Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A machine for sewing together lasted shoe uppers and ribbed insoles, said machine having stitch forming 4 devices including a curved hook needle and a work support member to engage a stitch receiving channel between the rib and the main body of the insole, said support member comprising a work-engaging surface disposed to act in opposition to the thrust of the needle and a face positioned at an acute angle to said Work-engaging surface, the intersection of said work-engaging surface and said face forming a ridge, the line of which intersects the normal sewing path of the curved needle, and having a needle confining aperture in line with said ridge to permit the passage of said needle.

2. A machine for sewing together lasted shoe uppers and ribbed insoles, said machine having stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle, a work support member to engage a stitch receiving channel between the rib and the main body of the insole, said support member having a work-engaging surface disposed to act in opposition to the thrust of the needle and a face positioned at an acute angle to said work-engaging surface, the intersection of said work-engaging surface and said face forming a ridge, the line of which intersects the normal sewing path of the curved needle, and having a needle confining aperture in line with said ridge to permit the passage of said needle, and a presser foot formed with a concave portion conforming to the configuration of the bulging last supported portion of the shoe upper, said concave portion acting to engage said bulging portion of the upper and thereby'clamp the insole against he work-engaging surface.

3. A machine for sewing together lasted Goodyear welt shoe uppers and ribbed insoles, said machine having stitch-forming devices including a curved hook needle, a work support member to engage a stitch receiving channel between the rib and the main body of the insole, said support member having a work-engaging surface disposed to act in opposition to the thrust of the needle and a face positioned at an acute angle to said Work-engaging sur face, the intersection of said work-engaging surface and said face forming a ridge, the line of which intersects the normal sewing path of the curved needle, and having a needle confining aperture in line with said ridge to permit the passage of said needle, and a presser foot formed with a concave portion conforming to the configuration of the bulging last supported portion of the shoe upper, said concave portion acting to engage said bulging portion of the upper and thereby clamp the insole against the said work-engaging surface, and said presser foot having a lip adapted to engage within a crease between the welt of the shoe and the bulging upper to guide the spacing of the stitches relative to the Welt.

References Cited in the file of this patent Ashworth July 7, 1953