US2428431A - Sewing machine strip guide - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 7, 1947.

E. E. MURPHY SEWING MACHINE STRIP GUIDE Filed Aug. 5, 1945 Patented Oct. 7, 1.947

SEWINGMACHINE s'rmP GUIDE Everett E. Murphy, Marblehead, Mass., assigner to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application August 3, 1945, Serial No. 608,644l

The present invention relates toshoe sewing machines in the use of which an edge covering strip is secured to the sole or bottom part of a shoe, and more particularly to guiding devices for directing a platform sole edge covering strip or Wrapper into the seams inserted by such machines for practicing the method of shoe construction disclosed in application for United States Letters Patent Serial No. 603,920, led July 9, 1945, in the name of the present inventor.

In sewing a platform sole edge covering strip to a shoe, the usual -practice is to guide the strip in such relation to the machine that the seam will pass through one edge of the strip while the other is left free to be Wrapped about the edge of the platform sole. In a curved hook needle shoe sewing machine, there is little if any available space for the addition .to the 'machine of bulky guides ordinarily necessary for sole edge covering' strips or wrappers to direct them to the sewing point. Also, platform sole edge covering strips or wrappers are relatively `flexible and are not sus# ceptibleto easy and accurate control andv direction of movement. i A

In guiding a sole edge covering strip or wrapper into sewing position, it is desirable to sew the strip as close to one ofits edges as iszpracticablef leaving ,free as great ,a width of the strip as pos--l sible for subsequent wrapping about theedge of the platform. With excessive flexibility, accurate control of `a covering strip cannot be obtained merely byconfining the strip throughout its V:entire width, the rigidity ofthe strip being insuflicient to maintainY proper guiding action. v -AFurthermore, a platform edge covering strip or wrapper frequently is cut with a non-uniform width to t the edges of a platform "sole or heel lift having Varying degrees of thickness throughout the length Vof the shoe, thus increasing still further the difficulty in controlling .the'strip Accordingly, Vthe object of the present invention is to provide a simple and effective inseam lshoe sewing machine having a, platform covering or wrapper edge guide which Will enable application ofa strip to a shoe and afford accurate control of the strip to be obtained While the strip isbeing directed into. a seam connecting the parts of th shoe, without the exercise, of unusual skill or abile` ity onrthe partof the operatonand, more 'ge'n. erally, the object of the invention is tofprovidean improved construction for a shoe sewing machine designed to secure such a covering l strip or wrapper to a shoe'.

21 Claims. (Cl. 1124-52) shoe are assembled and' suitably prepared for further operations, and one edge of a sole covering strip is provided with a lengthwise enlargement or reinforcement and is guided against the shoe by directing the enlargement into alinement with the sole edge While securing the strip and upper to the sole. As therein disclosed, the steps of making a shoe constructed in this manner include separately attaching a filler strip to one edge of the covering strip to provide the enlargement, guiding the filler strip into alinement with the sole edge, and sewing both strips with a single seam to the sole edge.

Conveniently, certain steps of the method disclosed in theabove noted application may be performed eiectively with the use of an inseam shoe sewing machine of the curved hook needle type provided with a novel and improved guide constructed to direct a, reinforced edge of a flexible platform covering strip or wrapper into the seam inserted by the stitch forming devices of the machine with the exible portion of the strip disposed in a plane substantially parallel to the marginal portion of a shoe upper which is secured in lasted relation to a platform insole, which guide, according to the principal feature of the present invention, comprises a frame, a hooked strap and a reinforcement retaining strap, both secured to the frame, with their ends suitably spaced to vform a slot for the exible portion of the covering strip and disposed with relation to each other to prevent escape of the reinforced edge of the covering strip from the guide. In providing a guide of this construction, and in utilizing a covering strip having the reinforcement along its edge, the edge may thus be directed accurately into the seam so that a firm anchorage in the seam for the covering strip may be obtained and so that a uniform and generally satisfactory shoe construction may result. Preferably, the separate filler strip comprising the reinforcement is attached with its edge in registration with the edge of the wrapper, and the hooked strap has its hooked end directed downwardly While the free vend of the reinforcement retaining strap is directed upwardly to engage the under edge surface of the reinforcement, thus enabling the flexible y portion of the cover strip to hang downwardly through the slot between the straps in a natural unwrinkled condition.

inthe practice of the invention fv the ppiic'agj Other features of the invention consist in devices, conrbinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described and claimed, the advantages of which Will readily be understood from Fig. 4 is a sectional view on Ya Ystill further iene" larged scale, showing the construction of a `shoe assembled on the machine of the present ihveh= tion; and

Fig. 5 is a similar View of the same shoe after Y completion and attachment of an outsole.

Before sewing a shoe with the illustrated machine, a insoleAlU ofthe platform type is prei vided having an inside channel l2 formed along its'lbottom surface .extending .around the entire marginal portion of the insole. The edge surface: of the insole is covered with a layer of thin, -iex` ilcl'e` material I4 secured to the inner surface of the insole Ybycernent. The insole is then ase sembled on'a'last I6 with an upper I8 andthe upper secured temporarily to the marginal porL tion of the insole by cement vin a mannermor'e fully disclosed in inventors Acopending application above referred to.

In the construction of a shoe of'this type; it is .customary to employ awedge heel or a Similar form of heel lift to give the shoe more effective shape. After the heel or liftis applied, an insole edge covering strip or wrapper is assembled with 'one of its edges ihsubstantial registry with the bottom surface of l`the platform 'insole I U., andthe parts are permanently secured inplace rby a line f'inseam stitches 22 passingthrough the covering strip, upper and insolewithin theV After sewing, the covering channel YI2 (Fig. 4)

Vstrip is carried'about the 'bottomy oiV the insole and lan 'outsole 24 is attached toV complete the shoe generally; as illustrated in Fig. 5-.

Where the' Icovering strip is intended to *cover` the edges of the heel o-rilift as well as the edges of .the insole ld', it may Ibe cut ywith a width varying along its'length so that excessive overlap and wastage \wi'll not occur along the ylo'ojttom surface of the insole IQ while, at the same time, there will `be sufcient width inthe strip t'o Vcover the heel edge.v Furthermore, :the covering stripl or wrapper '2B isA of relatively exiole material, frequently in the form 4of fabric or flimsy coated stock, Yso that it isdiieult to guide the strip ao- |curately during its application to the shoe Amerely iby confining the strip throughout its entire width andat both edges. With a variable `width .'strip, guiding by confinement lis Vrendered still 'more diei-cuit since a guide cf e iside tc receive the nerrcwest portieri will cause the 'strip td beccmc Y jammed or wrinkled when a wider portion is' reached.V K y Y Y K Y j To overcome these difhculties, before the cove' erihg Strip i Wrapper vis directed against the shoe fcr attachment te 'the insole edge, en einy ler'gemch'tis formed 'along' che' edge of the strip consisting ef e. separate reinforcing er nner strip 28 cemented to the edge ofthe covering strip. With "such an enlargement, the two strips arey guided together and, indirecting ,theV enlarge-j ment of the reinforcing strip into 'proper aline?,`

Yment with the insole edge, the covering strip is 4i carried automatically into proper 'sewing position. By this expedient, the :covering strip may be satisfactorily attached by machine while securing the other parts of the shoe together.

A shoe sewing machine equipped with a guide of novel and improved construction, as will be more fully set forth, for sewing a covering strip to the marginal portions et a she upper and lilatic'irmy insole, according to the present invention, comprises the usual stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle 23, a curved awl 30; a looper v32, a take-up 34, a channel guide 3S, and other stitch forming devices similar t'o those in the machine disclosed in UnitedStates Letters,

Patent No. 1,'1O8., 5 U60, granted August 25, 1914, on 'an application filed in the name 'of Andrew lppler. l In operation, the machine is adjusted to cause the needle to penetrate the marginal portion f a lasted shoe upper and the Yedge of the insole and to emerge from the :bottom surface ofthe insolep Y This machine is usually provided with a welt guide for directing a welt -into .the inseam of va Goodyear welt type shoe.

/With the reinforcing strip 25, is permitted to extend outside :the guide in such a way as to avoid the formation of wrinkles or folds as would occur under close and com-plete confinement of flimsy, Yflexible materials. ,The adjustment of the present guide is such that the: seam will liifiterseet the i'lller vstrip and the attached edge of the covering Stripy substantiallyY at right angles.`

The strip guide of the illustrated machihehes a frame 38 of substantially the same'construction' as that of the prior patent andi'a hooked strap 40 attachedto. the frame withvits Vhooked end directed downwardly;` fThe hooked end of the strap 40 is shaped to 'guidejboth the llerfst'rp' Y and upper edge of the covering' strip inproper relation to the edge of a shoe'insole when the shoe is presented tothe mahiiie. To prevent escape of the reinforcing strip; the guide is pro vided With arletain'g Strap 42fa1s `vseufed. the frame 3x3V withuitsective, freeenddirec'tcd upwardly t engage the lifl Vedge Surfa 0f vlille reinforcigstripbut -at a position spaced from Y the hooked` end of the strap 14B to Vfe'rir'i a slotl th'r'c'ugh which the ,nettime pcrticrji yef" the covering strip or wrapper 20A'rnay extend. Thus, therein1` forcing Strip is dehnitely confined, Vthe width cf theslct' between the ends cf the'sktreps' being in: sufficient to enable ittc escape'. Through its .et

tachme'ht Vtothe 'reinforcing strip, the upper edge of the coverihgrstrip aise ,is he1dfror'n displacement and the downwardly extehdihgrpcrtich cf the covering strip` is carried 1h` natural, unf Y wrmieed condition tc its peint cf -attach'nichtte the shoe. Y

By edjdstihg thc Vchannel guide 36 aridV the position of the `straps mehdi?, the reinforcing' strip and attached ccverhig strip edge areV di- Vrected into the seam. line, the reinforcing ,stript beingied ih accurate ehh'erhent 'with theedge efAVV the platform insole.v After the parts thus acted upon are 'sev/ed, a permanent construction isjprc-v vided whichenable's the completed shoe to display the desirable configurations of its shapealid,V

character to .the fullestpossible degree.V Also, the

hdrnherpffjseparate cperatijchs required in the. construction'of the shoe are orres'pondiiigly re- In the present ma*-V chine, howeverpthe usual welt guide is removed Y duced to a minimum, and relatively inexpensive and easily obtained materials may be utilized.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:

1. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, together with other stitch forming devices, a, curved work piercing needle arranged to penetrate the marginal portion of a lasted shoe upper and the edge of a, platform insole and to emerge from the bottom surface of the insole, in combination with a guide constructed and arranged to direct a reinforced edge of a flat flexible platform sole wrapper into the seam inserted by the stitch forming devices with the plane of the wrapper in substantially parallel relation to the marginal portion of the upper, comprising a frame, a hooked strap attached to the frame, and a reinforcement retaining strap secured to the frame with its active end spaced from the hooked end of the hooked strap to form a slot for the wrapper and disposed closer to the hooked strap than the thickness of the reinforcement to prevent escape of the reinforcement from the hook of the hooked strap.

2. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, together with other stitch forming devices. a curved Work piercing needle arranged to penetrate the marginal .portion of a lasted shoe upper and the edge of a platform insole and emerge from the bottom surface of the insole, in combination With a guide constructed and arranged to direct one edge of a iiat flexible platform sole wrapper having a reinforcing filler strip attached in registering relation thereto with the filler strip intersected by the seam inserted and the plane of the wrapper in substantially parallel relation to the marginal portion of the upper, comprising a frame, a hooked strap attached to the frame with its hooked end directed downwardly, and a ller strip retaining strap secured to the frame having its active end directed upwardly to engage the under surface of the ller strip but spaced from the hooked end 0f the hooked strap to form a slot for the wrapper of a width less than the thickness 0f the filler strip to prevent escape of the filler strip from the hook of the hooked strap.

EVERETT E. MURPHY.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the le of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name n Date 2,370,937 Cocozella Mar. 6, 1945 2,278,675 Shaw Apr. 7, 1942 644,634 Pittroi Mar. 6, 1900

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