US3005472A - Woven fabric - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 24, 1961 KASEY' 3,005,472

WOVEN FABRIC Filed June 24, 1958 INVENTORS ROBERT ALLEN KASEY, JR.- EVERETT HARRIS RINKER, JR.

VERNAL HARDY SCHEUERMAN ATTORNEY 3,005,472 Patented Oct. 24, 1961 ice 3,005,472 WUVEN FABRIC Robert Allen Kasey, in, Everett Harris Rinlter, In, and

Vernal Hardy fichenerrnan, Wilmington, Del, assign ors to E. I. du Pont de Nernonrs and Company, Wilmington, Del., a corporation of Delaware Filed June 24, 1958, Ser. No. 744,944 Stilaims. (Cl. 139426) This invention relates to novel fabric construction and particularly woven synthetic filament fabrics having improved covering power, durability and frictional properties.

It has been recognized for a long time that fabrics constructed of synthetic filament yarns have several deficiencies, in particular, low friction (characterized by slipperiness), low covering power, a Streaky, non-uniform appear-ance and a cold, clzunmy hand, which is most certainly uncomfortaole when in contact with the human skin. Some of these deficiencies may be minimized by the use of bulked yarns. However, fabrics constructed of 100% bulked continuous filament yarns often go too far in altering the filament fabric properties and introduce new problems, such as excessive lint trapping, lower durability and greater piekiness.

An object of this invention is to provide a novel synthetic filament warp and fabrics made therefrom having improved properties, particularly suitable for use as pillow cases, bed sheeting, shirtings, and the like. Another object of this invention is to provide woven synthetic filament fabrics having increased friction without markedly affecting the strength and durability of the fabric. Other objects will be apparent from the description given below.

These objects are accomplished by providing a woven fabric wherein the filling yarn is composed of 100% substantially untwisted synthetic filaments (except for producer twist) and the warp yarn is composed of synthetic filaments comprising 30% to 70% by weight or" a bulked yarn and 70% to 30% by weight of unbulked yarn. Both warp yarns may be either twisted or untwisted. The filling yarn will preferably be untwisted in order to achieve maximum opacity in the final fabrics. The final fabrics will contain by weight 20%40% bulked filament yarn. Preferably, the warp will comprise a bulked synthetic filament yarn wherein the filaments are individually convoluted into coils, loops, and whorls at random intervals along their lengths, said bulked yarn being disposed in the warp alternately in single succession (i.e., end-and-end) with the remainder of the warp of unbulked filament yarn.

In the drawing, which illustrates a woven fabric of this invention and the warp of yarns used therein,

FlGURE 1 is a simplified representation of a warp beam 1 having a number of parallel yarns wound thereon consisting of alternate ends of unbulked yarn 2 and bulked yarn 3 of twisted continuous synthetic organic filament yarns in an end-and-end construction, and

FIGURE 2 is a plan View of fabric woven therefrom with a filling of unbulked substantially untwisted continuous synthetic organic filament yarn 4 as disclosed hereinafter. The fabric construction will be more readily understood from the examples.

The novel warp construction of this invention may be composed of any type of unbulked filament yarn alternating with any type of bulked filament yarn. Preterably, the alternation is in single succession in order to achieve optically flat fabrics. For example, unbulked polyamide filament yarn may be alternated with bulked polyamide filament yarn, polyester filament yam, acrylon-itrile polymer filament yarn, and the like, and unbulked polyester filament yarn may be alternated with bulked polyamide filament yarn, polyester filament yarn, acrylonitrile polymer filament yarn, and the like. The bulked yarn may be composed of a single component or multicomponents. For example, the bulked yarn may be 100% polyamide or a blend of polyamide and rayon, or a blend of polyester and rayon, preferably high tenacity rayon, or a blend of two or more polyamide yarns of different lusters, etc. The bulked and unbulked components making up the warp may include continuous filament synthetic organic yarns made from one or more fiber-forming materials, typical examples of which are cellulose acetate, cellulose triacetate, regenerated cellulose, polyamides such as polyhexamethylene adipamide, polyhexamethylene sebacamide, polycaproamide, and copolyamides, polyesters and copolyesters such as condensation products of ethylene glycol with terephthalic acid, ethylene glycol with a /10 mixture of terephthalic/isophthalic acids, ethylene glycol with a 98/2 mixture of terephthalic/S-(sodium sulfo)isophtha11ic acids, and trans-p-hexahydro-xylylene glycol with terephthalic acid, polyacrylonitrile, copolymers of acrylonitrile with other monomers such as methyl acrylate or vinyl pyridine, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyesteramides, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, fluorinated ethylene polymers and copolymers, and the like.

The novel warp construction of this invention has several advantages independent of its contribution to better fabric properties. These eud andcnd warps allow the preparation of a porous warp beam so that dyeing of the warp can be carried out directly on the beam. Lower yarn tensions can be used successfully in beaming the bulked and unbulked filament yarns together compared with the normally high tensions required for preparing 100% unbulked filament warp beams. Warp yarns made up entirely of unbulked filaments normally pack to give such a dense package that this construction is not susceptible to beam dyeing without poor dyeing uniformities. lso the end-and-end warps of this invention form a better package, are easier to wind onto the beam, allow better beaming efficiency and uniformity and cause fewer defects than when handling a warp beam of 100% bulked yarn, because the ends of bulked yarn are spread farther. apart in the end-and-end iorm so that these ends avoid snagging of the bulked yarns against one another. This also allows better elficiency in weaving from the endand-end warp because of less snagging of ends during weaving than with 100% bulked warps. Larger warp beams of this novel construction can be made than is possible with beams composed wholly of bulked yarns. Another advantage of these end-and-e'nd warps lies in the greater latitude available to the manufacturer in being able to build a third dimension of aesthetic properties into a wider variety of fabric types from variations in denier and degree of bulkiness in the warp components, compared to only one type of fabric available from a warp beam of 3 end-and-end construction onto a beam, or the two yarn types may be combined in the desired end-and-end relationship into a warp sheet which is then slashed and wound onto a beam.

The degree of bulk, which is regulated by the percent overfeed of the yarn fed through a jet of turbulent fluid, in the bulked yarn component used in preparing the novel warps of this invention will vary with the end use and properties desired in the fabrics. It is preferred to use bulked yarns having 5% to overfeed for best sheeting and pillow case fabric properties, although overfeeds from 2% to 30% or higher may be employed in the bulked yarns going into fabrics for other end uses.

The filling yarns may be composed of one, two, or more continuous filamentary materials, which may be of the same composition as any of those listed for the warp, or they may also be composed of silk or glass.

It may be desirable to construct fabrics from a warp composed of one or more ends of bulked filament yarn alternating with two or more ends of unbulked filament yarn. This technique can produce a distinct ribbed effect which is desirable for use in certain types of fabrics.

The advantages of the novel fabrics of this invention over those having 100% unbulked filament yarn in both warp and filling, which are of more conventional construction, include higher coefficient of friction, reduced intensity and length of warp streaks, reduced filling barr, greater covering power (both reflected light and transmitted light), less fabric shiftiness (i.e., lower yarn slippage), more desirable luster and a better fabric handle and comfort. As compared with fabrics woven from 100% bulked yarn in both warp and filling, the end-andend constructed fabrics of this invention include the advantages of lower amount of lint trapping, better weavability, better durability, reduced pickiness, i.e., less fabric snagging), lower cost, and possibility of greater variation in fabric stiffness without change in surface characteristics. Surprisingly, the novel fabrics of this invention even show superiority over fabrics woven from 100% unbulked filament yarn in the warp and 100% bulked yarn in the filling with respect to better covering power, better durability to repeated laundering, fewer reed marks, and less filling yarn junctions which show up as non-uniformities after dyeing. In addition, the end-andend constructed warps are easier to weave than 100% bulked warps, and the resulting fabrics of this invention have better durabiltiy than those made from 100% bulked warp and 100% unbulked filling.

It has also been found that improvements in fabric appearance may be obtained by using warp yarns with a different luster than the filling yarns. In the fabrics of this invention, for example, using a dull filling yarn with both components of the warp being semi-dull yarns gives a pleasing three-dimensional type luster, compared with a chalky appearance in an all dull fabric, and an undesirable sheen or glaze in a fabric composed of all semi-dull yarns. This variation of luster between yarns is particularly useful for making satisfactory appearing shirting fabrics. Further improvements in fabric properties (e.g., varying degrees of fabric crispness) may be achieved by variations in the denier of the unbulked filament yarn component of the warp and/ or filling.

It may be desirable in the construction of fabrics for certain specific uses to employ bulked yarn in the filling. This modification is useful when a higher degree of friction is desired than is possible wtih 100% unbulked yarn in the filling, and it is also useful to help prevent yarn slippage in very lightweight fabrics. However, these advantages may be outweighed for this modification of fabric, particularly when using 100% bulked yarn in filling, by the lower covering power and lower durability. A similar disadvantage occurs when fabrics contain spun yarns or staple fibers in any of the components of construction because of the high pilling propensity of these staple components. The fabrics of this invention do not contain any staple components in their construction.

The bulked yarn suitable for use in the warp in the proportions stated may be prepared by any convenient method which results in a yarn comprising a plurality of substantially continuous filaments which are individually convoluted into coils, whorls, and loops at random intervals along their lengths. Preferably, the bulked yarn possesses a multitude of ring-like loops irregularly spaced along the yarn surface. Such bulked yarns which are suitable for use in this invention may be prepared ac cording to the methods described by A. L. Breen in US. Patent 2,783,609 and in US. application Serial No. 375,- 372, filed August 20, 1953, by A. L. Breen and now Patent No. 2,852,906 dated September 23, 1958. However, any similar bulked yarn made by other methods may likewise be used as part of the warp in this invention, particularly that described in US. application Serial No. 698,103, filed November 22, 1957, by A. L. Breen and H. G. Lauterbach.

The novel end-and-end fabrics of this invention, which may be either woven or warp knit, have many important uses, such as in the form of bed sheeting, pillow cases, shirtings, comforter fabrics, blouse fabrics, dresses, lingerie, suits, upholstery, filter fabrics, and the like.

The following examples illustrate specific embodiments of this invention without intending to limit the same. The examples are chosen to illustrate specific advantages of the fabrics of this invention, constructed as shown in FIG. 2, over fabrics of more conventional construction. All of the yarn components listed in the examples are either bulked or unbulked continuous filament yarns and the per cent of bulked yarn by weight is shown based on the warp and/ or total fabric. Each of the end-and-end constructed warps is formed of one end of the indicated bulked yarn alternating in single succession with one end of the indicated unbulked yarn. All nylon fabrics in the examples are woven from polyhexamethylene adipamide yarns constructed as follows: All of the 100% unbulked fabrics have a warp reeded 104 ends per inch and a filling with a pick gear of 72 picks per inch. All end-and-end constructed fabrics have a warp reeded ends per inch and a pick gear of 72 picks per inch. All of the fabrics with bulked yarn in the filling also have a loom construction of 90 end/inch and 72 pick/inch. The finished fabric weight in each case is approximately 1.9 to 2.0 oz./sq. yd. The bulked yarns are designated in each case by the symbol T; for example, 88T/ 80 meaning 88 denier bulked yarn made by bulking 80 denier unbulked yarn. These bulked yarns are made according to US. 2,783,609, referred to above, for example, in the case of 88T/ 80 yarn an overfeed of EXAMPLE 1 Coefitcient of friction Filament fabrics are known for their smooth continuous surface which is undesirable or unacceptable for many end uses. An excellent example of this is the fact that woven filament nylon bed sheetings are not satisfactory because of the slipperiness of the sheeting fabric against the blankets, top sheet, and pillow case. Only 25% to 35% bulked yarn (by weight of total fabric) in the end-and-end construction gives suificient friction to produce a satisfactory sheeting product. The fact that such a small amount of bulked yarn gives satisfactory friction was unexpected and very useful as indicated later in the comparison of the end-and-end technology vs. use of bulked yarns in more conventional constructions. Table I gives relative coefficients of friction for 100% unbulked filament fabric vs. fabric having end-and-end bulked/unbulked filament in the warp.

A spectrum of friction values can be obtained by varying the degree of bulking (e. g., between 1% and 30% overfeed) in the bulked yarn component.

TABLE I Ooeflicient of Friction l 1 As measured under 163 g. normal force at 45 angle of inclination.

EXAMPLE 2 Uniformity of appearance and streak level Filament fabrics having 100% unbulked yarn in both warp and fill, especially those made from bright or semidull yarns, are characterized by severe streakiness. This streakiness manifests itself in the warp as long continuous streaks with both high intensity and frequency. In the filling non-uniformities appear as regular patterns which have been associated with draw-twister pirn taper. The warp streaks in these fabrics are mostly caused by variations in surface configuration rather than differences in inherent properties of the yarns themselves.

Surprisingly, when the end-and-end technology of this invention is used, both the filling barr and warp streakiness are dramatically reduced. The reduction in filling barr is completely unexpected and not entirely understood. This result is important because it means that redrawing, lagging, and other operations that mills normally use to minimize filling barr can be eliminated.

The end-and-end fabrics also show a surprising degree of warm uniformity. There are some warp streaks but these are discontinuous and, therefore, less objectionable than the long continuous streaks normally associated with filament fabrics. Improvements. in nylon fabric uniformity are indicated by data shown in Table II. All yarns used are semi-dull yarns.

Reduction in fabric streakiness is a major problem limiting the use of filament fabrics in outer apparel enduses. With this new information, fabrics can be produced which not only have improved appearance, but also have a range of hands varying from filamentous to fine spunlike depending on the amount of bulk imparted to the yarn. These fabrics have utility in apparel fabrics both where a uniform appearance and where a change from the Percent people judging the over-all uniformity of endand-end to be superior to that of unbulked control (average of 20 ratings).

Frequency measured as streaks/inch on Streakmeter. Intensity is a measure of magnitude of streak level obtained from Streakmeter evaluation.

6 EXAMPLE 3 Use of the end-and-end technology gives greater transmitted light-covering power than either bulked yarn in the filling or 100% unbulked yarn in both warp and filling for fabrics of equivalent weight. Improved covering power is a desirable property in many fabric types such as shirtings, sheetings, and blouses. Supporting data are shown in Table III, and all yarns used are dull yarns. It should be noted that introduction of 49% bulked yarn in a fabric does not significantly improve the covering power, whereas using only 29% bulked yarn in the fabric in the specific warp construction according to this invention doubles the covering power of the fabric even though it is a lighter weight fabric.

TABLE III Percent Bulked Yarn In Fabric Fabric t Weight (percent) Fabric Description (oz yd?) (1) Unbulked Warp and Fill:

703i7Z Nylon (2) Unbnlked Warp; Bulked Filling:

Warp70347Z Nylon Filling-WT 70-34-13Z Nylon (3) EndanCLEnd Construction Warp77T/7034l3Z Nylon, 70-

34-7Z Nylon (52% bulked in warp) Fllling7034l/2Z Nylon One of the problems in 100% unbulked filament fabrics is fabric shiftiness or yarn slippage in the fabric. When unbulked fabrics are made in low constructions, the warp yarns or filling yarns may slip under external stress and give fabric distortion. resin-treat low construction unbulked fabrics to get away from this problem. Resin treatment brings about undesirable fabric stiffening and sometimes affects fabric performance. The end-and-end modification of this invention permits design of fabrics with lower constructions which are acceptable from the standpoint of fabric shiftiness. Data to show this improvement are given in Table IV. This is important because it allows the construction of a sheeting fabric which is lighter in weight than 100% unbulked filament sheeting and, therefore, has more favorable economics. Lighter weight is also important in some apaprel end-uses from the standpoint of desirable aesthetics.

TABLE IV Fabric Weight (oz. yd?) Four lb. Displace- Fabrio Description ment in Mils 1 Warp Fill (1) Unbulkcd Warp and Fill:

70-34-7Z Nylon (2) End-and-End Construction:

Warp88T/8068l3Z Nylon, 70-

34-1/2Z Nylon (56% bulked in warp; 32% in fabric). Fill70341/2Z Nylon 1 Amount of yarn slippage in mils under 4 lb. load.

EXAMPLE 5 It is often necessary tounder the loops in the bulked yarn gives objectionable appearance and is difiicult to remove. Lint trapping is a function of the number and size of the loops on the bulked yarn. The reduced concentration of bulked yarn in the end-and-end construction, therefore, gives less lint trapping. Data comparing lint trapping propensity of fabric of 100% bulked polyester vs. end-and-end bulked/ unbulked polyester construction are given in Table V. The 100% bulked polyester fabric is loomed at 96 ends/inch and 68 picks/inch with a finished fabric weight of 2.55 oz./ sq. yd. The end-and-end constructed fabric is loomed at 128 ends/inch and 68 picks/inch with the same weight of finished fabric.

TABLE V Lint Trapping Fabric Description (Rating (1) 100% Bulked Warp and Fill:

1 Rating:

1No lint trapping visible. 2Noticeab1e amount of lint trapping. 3-Objectionable amount of lint trapping. ft-Completely unacceptable.

EXAMPLE 6 Fabric durability Light weight filament fabrics constructed of 100% bulked yarn in the filling can develop objectionable surface distortion under conditions of repeated use and laundering. Data in Table VI show that comparable Weight fabrics of end-and-end construction have superior durability. This is an important consideration in fabric types such as bed sheetings which must be durable. Often the appearance change is accompanied by an undesirable change in fabric handle which makes the bulked filling construction even less attractive. Better durability is one of the most important reasons for superiority of properties of the end-and-end construction in bed sheeting fabrics.

TABLE VI Eflect of end-and-end construction on appearance change due to repeated laundering 1 383 5 yisible change in fabric surface.

2Noticeablc change in fabric surface (i.e., some fuzziness but still acceptable).

3Objectionable change in appearance of fabric surface (i.e., pill formation and fabric distortion).

The claimed invention:

1. A woven fabric of improved covering power to transmitted light, durability to repeated laundering and uniformity of appearance, having a warp consisting of alternate ends of bulked and unbulked twisted continuous synthetic organic filament yarns and a filling consisting of unbulked substantially untwisted continuous synthetic organic filament yarn, said bulked warp yarn being of a denier 5% to 10% greater than the denier of the unbulked yarn from which it is prepared.

2. A fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the synthetic organic filaments are nylon.

3. A fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the synthetic organic filaments are polyester.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 308,526 Simon Nov. 25, 1884 1,867,019 Meyer July 12, 1932 2,171,626 Dreyfus et al. Sept. 5, 1939 2,595,778 Duckoff May 6, 1952 2,619,705 Foster Dec. 2, 1952 2,738,176 Hargenrater Mar. 13, 1956 2,783,609 Breen Mar. 5, 1957 2,789,340 Cresswell Apr. 23, 1957

Claims (1)

1. A WOVEN FABRIC OF IMPROVED COVERING POWER TO TRANSMITTED LIGHT, DURABILITY TO REPEATED LAUNDERING AND UNIFORMITY OF APPEARANCE, HAVING A WARP CONSISTING OF ALTERNATE ENDS OF BULKED AND UNBULKED TWISTED CONTINUOUS SYNTHETIC ORGANIC FILAMENT YARNS AND A FILLING CONSISTING OF UNBULKED SUBSTANTIALLY UNTWISTED CONTINUOUS SYNTHETIC ORGANIC FILAMENT YARN, SAID BULKED WARP YARN BEING OF A DENIER 5% TO 10% GREATER THAN THE DENIER OF THE UNBULKED YARN FROM WHICH IT IS PREPARED.

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