US2974395A - Process of dyeing combination draperylining fabrics and product - Google Patents

Description

United States Patent'O PROCESS OF DYEING COMBINATION DRAPERY- LINING FABRICS AND PRODUCT Merwin R. Haskel, Scarsdale, N.Y., assignor to United Merchants and Manufacturers, Inc., New York, N.Y., a corporation of Delaware Filed Apr. 8, 1955, Ser. No. 500,238

6 Claims. (CI. 28-74) This invention relates to the production of draperies, and specifically such as comprise not only the. drapery face but also a drapery back or lining, the face and the back being combined and woven on a loom as one prior to dyeing, printing and finishing thereof. 7

Normally in the manufacture of draperies, if a lining therefore is to be included it is made up separately and apart from the preparation of the drapery as such, considered apart from its lining, and the latter is subsequently stitched or otherwise affixed to the rear side of the drapery piece after both components have been separately woven or otherwise constructed and dyed, printed, or otherwise finished.

As distinguished fromthe ordinary or conventional procedure just described, it is proposed herein to produce drapery goods having a backing or lining, by a means and process such that both the drapery face and .trable, or at least substantially impervious to the subsequent application of dyestuffs and/or printing pastes to the drapery or face member of the composite lined drapery article.

. Astill further object is a method of making composite lined draperies wherein the lining member has a. relatively close construction, that is relative to the weaving construction of the face component of the drape, such that even without pre-treatment of the lining member the latter is rendered similarly substantially impervious to, and unaffected by, the application of printing pastes to the face of the drapery; this result, of course, being obtained in this embodiment of the invention by reason of the closeness of the construction imparted during the weaving operation to the lining, instead of being a result of the pre-treatment as heretofore outlined and more fully explained below.

With the above and other objects in view, as will be apparent, this invention consists in the construction, combination, and arrangement of parts, all as hereinafter more fully described, claimed, and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein:

. Fig. l is a sectional representation taken transversely or. filling-wise of a very small portion of a double cloth;

1 Fig. 12 is a plan view of the samedouble cloth;

. Fig. 3 is another'transverse sectional illustration of a .double cloth, showing in addition to what is illustrated in Fig. 1, the feature of both cloths being brought ,together and united as one at both selvage edges thereof, and also gives an indication of how the two cloths may be, loosely connected or combined as by spaced stitching across the width ofthe two cloths; 1

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Fig. 4 is intended to represent the upper or face member of drape goods produced according to the present invention while in the greige state;

Fig. 5 is a representation of the back or lining face of the greige cloth of Fig. 4, the difference in construction being intended to be represented by the closeness of the weave in this figure as contrasted with the relatively open construction shown for the face in Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 illustrates the drapery face of the cloth shown in Fig. 4 after it has been dyed or printed and otherwise finished;

Fig. 7 is the cloth of Fig. '5, that is a representation of the under portion or lining face of the composite lined drapery fabric after the lining has been dyed, printed, or otherwise finished;

Fig. 8 is a schematic representation of a system or apparatus assembly adapted to carry out the steps of the process of the present invention, at least according to one embodiment thereof, and this method includes the feature of pro-treating the drapery lining cloth so that subsequently it' will not be affected by after-dyeing or printing of the face of the drapery goods;

Fig. 9 presents a modification of the procedure sche matically illustrated in Fig. -8 whereby the step of pretreating the lining member, is, or may be, dispensed with if the drapery face member is printed instead of being after-dyed as shown in Fig. 8, and provided further that the construction of the lining member is not so open as to permit easy or substantial penetration of the printing pastes so that there is leakage of-the same in inordinate quantity from the under side of the drapery face cloth into the upper or concealed face of the lining or its interstices.

In carrying out the present invention it is desirable to weave or otherwise fabricate two single pieces of cloth into one fabric. This is known conventionally as a double cloth, wherein each one of the two single cloths has its own system of warp threads and filling threads, and both cloths are woven simultaneously on one and the same loom. Both fabrics may be combined by interlacing some of the warp threads of one of the two cloths into the other at spaced intervals. These double cloths have been made and marketed for some time past and for a variety of purposes, as for example, to reduce the cost of production of heavyweight fabrics by using cheaper and lower grade cloth for that which forms the back, or to add to the strength of certain grades of fabrics or increase the bulk thereof, and for other purposes. So far as is known, however, double cloths have not been employed heretofore for the manufacture of a composite lined drapery or drapery fabric in which one of the two cloths forms the face or drapery, as such, while the other cloth forms the lining. Similarly, so far as is known, it is novel to pre-treat one member of a composite double cloth fabric for the purpose of rendering it insensitive or resistant to subsequent after-treatment of the other member or second cloth, at least in the production of lined draperies.

Thus it is proposed here to weave or otherwise fabricate piece goods in the form of two individually distinct fabrics woven on the same loom, one to constitute the face of the drapery fabric, and the other the lining therefor. After making the double cloth in" this fashion the composite material is subsequently processed whereby the drapery fabric face may be printed or dyed in such wise that the color of either will not penetrate through to the back and into the lining. After printing or dyeing the face or drapery, then the back or lining may be dyed or otherwise finished like an ordior other type cloth, as desired.

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Thus one piece of .goods is woven with two parts in the form of a double cloth, the two members being attached to each other without disturbing the general nature of each. Then the liningmember of the composite double cloth is dy'ed'or printed in sucha mannerthat it will resist after-printing or dyeing of the face-member.

Referring now moreparticularly to the drawings, Fig. 1 shows a. section fillingwise of a portion of a double cloth, "and Fig. '2 is a.plan view of the same. It will be noted that the cloth of Fig. 1 comprises a series of warp yarns 10, 11, 12 interlaced with the filling threads, or picks 13, '14, and comprises further a second series of Warp yarns 15, 16'and 17 arranged inparallelrelation to, but unconnected with, the upper warp yarns 10,11,12. It will be seen further that the second group of warps 15, '16, 17 have their own interlacing'filling threads 19, 18. Thus, for al.practical;purposes, at least insofar as is shown in Fig. l and Fig. 2 for that matter, the two sets of co-acting warps'and'picks '1 4 and 19 respectively are individually distinct and altogether independent of each other. v p

The plan view of the double cloth shown in Fig. 2 carries a little further-the illustration of this double cloth concept. As here 'shown, the two single cloth fabrics are shown as if one were superposed upon theother, each with its own individual and independentinterlacing of warp-and filling threads; that-is to say, the system of warp threads 20, 21, while interlacing and co -acting with the- picks 22,23, are completely free and independent of the secondsystem of warp threads-24, co-act with their own filling threads 26, 27. Therefore, each set ofwarp threads interlaces with its own system of filling, and each clothis-independent of the other. The two cloths arestitchedorotherwise combinedtogether so as to form one fabric, that; is, the warp, of the bottom fabric may bind into the face fabric, or. the fabric into the bottom-fabric. In other words, the warp or one ofthe two cloths willinterweavemore or less with the filling of the other. ,Manifestly, the way in-which the two cloths are combined intoone, as for example, the number of combining stitches, will have a certain elfect upon the feel or the hand of thecomposite fabric, but for present purposes, namely,,the.production of drapery fabrics and draperies, the number of these combining stitches is not especially'critical, and there may beconsiderable spacing therebetween. The numberof stitches necessary desirably should be just sufiicient to prevent the two cloths from ballooning away-frorn-each other. d d

In short, the double cloth accordingto thepresentinvention may be defined as a compoundjor composite fabric in which aface cloth -anda back cloth each with its own warp and fillingare combined during wea ving. The two clothsmay be bound together by using certain of the threads of the face or back, or if desired, a separate set of'binder threads may be used. The upper or facc cloth may differ from the bottom or under cloth in several respects, viz.'in weaving construction, yarns, threads per inch, or in color, or may otherwise differ. On theother hand, both sides'may be alike, or may show'apattern reversed in color. The weaves too may have variety,-as for example, twill, satin, jacquard, or other, and these may be combined with various finishes.

As shown in Fig. 3, the double cloth according to the presentinvention may be stitche d togetherjwidthwis e at spaced intervals as by 'the connecting or combining stitches 28. In additiom'the weaving pattern g-onfthe loom maybe such as'to bring the two cloths 'inface-tcrface contiguous "relation"atthe'selvageedges, "of

' both cloths.

After thestep'ofwavingailofible cloth is emigrated according to the 'presentinv'ention, and befofe it'is'dyed,

printed, or finisherL'it maybe represented a'ccofding 'to close as that utilized in manufacturing or fabricating the lining member 32. The reason for having a relatively close construction for the lining 32 is because this helps to Prevent penetration into or within the interstices of the liner 32 by dyestuff or printing paste subsequently deposited on the face member '31. This should not be understood to mean that the face 31 cannot also be of "close construction as in "the case of the lining member 32, it being sufficient, generally speaking, to confine the closeness of construction to the liner 32. At'the same timeit will be understood that by imparting an open weave or construction to the face member 31, the reception thereby and penetration therein of the dyestutf and printing compo'sit ion's'is for that reason facilitated.

Reference to Figs. 4 and 5 showing the respective faces of the face member 31 and lining component 32 in the greige may be concluded by observing that the key letters *F and W appearing at the sides and under the-figures refer respectively -'to the filling threads and warps, with the arrows indicating the'directions of travel thereof.

In Fig. '6 is shownthe dyed-or printed drapery fabric face 33, and Fig. 7 illustrates the under side or lining member 34 of the present composite lined drapery after the lining 34 has been dyed, printed, and/or otherwise finished.

A suitable'method for processing double cloths further according to the present invention is indicated diagrammatically in Fig. 8. According to this embodimennafter the double cloth 31, 32 has been woven and while it is still in the greige state, it may be run through a printing assembly to impart 'a resist or reserve to the lining member 32. Such apparatus may comprise a rubber covered pressure roll 35, mounted on the stand 36, and constructed to -rota-tablyfco'-act with 'as'uitably engraved print roller -37, the print-roll 37 being in sliding contact with the 'periphery'of a furnisher'roll 38 which deposits a supply of any desired'resist composition39. The specificresist employed will, of course, depend on a number of factors, such as the nature of the fiber from which the goods'are "woven, and the nature of the printing compositionior 'dy'estulf selected. These limitations or factors being -'taken into account, it may be'said generally that resins such as u'rea'formaldehyde and melamine formaldehyde, or waxes, or gums, or compositions of other materials may make up the resist composition.

Ihe'arrangement or assembly of aprinter unit's'een'in Fig. 8 is entirely conventional, it being understood that astheseveral rollers 35, 37 and 38'rotate'in unison, the resist'coinposition 39 travels around the workingsurfac'e of'the furnisher roll 38 whereby it'comes'in contact with, and is deposited on, the operating surface of the engraved roll '37. The greige double cloth 31, 32 is forced through the'nip of the printing rolls 3537 by any suitable power means,"-as for example, a 'motor (not shown), and atthat time'a deposit of the resist 39 is'applied to'the exposed "outer lining surface 32 of the double'cloth 31, 32. As 'will 'be understood, thisresist 39 maybe transferred'from the engr'aved portions of the print roll 37 to thc'free sur- "face oftlie liner cloth 32 either in the form of apattern as by local application, or as an all-over deposit, depending upon the'extent of the engraving upon the printer 'roll 37.

It may be pointed out here, however, thatif it is intended'subsequently to dye or apply color all-over to the i-drapery fab'ricface 31, then :it will be' advisable to give an all-over application-of resist materialz39 over the entire face orsfree 'surface'of the liner 32. 0n the mther hand, if "instead ofdyeing the drapery clothrface 31 it is 'intended merely to print-it locally, then-itwill -b'e snfi icient 'to print-ta corresponding pattern of local application with'a "resist-upon the free surface of the remainder of the face 31.

remainder of the lining 32 as the color printed areas or portions of the face member 31 occupy in relation to the Thus may be produced a double cloth drapery fabric comprising a lining locally printed with a resist, and a face having printed portions in registration with the locally printed areas of the lining.

According to the scheme of Fig. 8, it is in that instance proposed subsequently to give an all-over application of dyestuif to the drapery face 31, and for that reason, as explained, it will be understood that the working surface of the printer roll 37 carries a plurality of oblique lines or cuttings all around its periphery from one end of the print roller 37 to the opposite end thereof. Thereby a sufficient amount of resistcomposition 39 will be deposited in the multitude of engravings of the print roll 37 to insure an all-over application thereof, that is of the resist, to the free surface of the liner member 32 of the double cloth 31, 32 as itpasses through the nip of the co-operating print and pressure rolls 37-35.

Further, according to the embodiment of the invention suggested in Fig. 8 of the drawings hereof, after the reserve or resist composition 39 has been deposited as an all-over application to the liner surface 32, a suitable drying interval I may be allowed before dyeing the drapery cloth surface, 31. Any conventional drying apparatus may be employed for this surface, or the material simply may be air dried at room temperature. Following the drying of the resist on and within the fibers of the liner surface 32, the Whole composite double cloth 31, 32 in the greige may be dunked or immersed in a dye bath 40 as by unwinding it from left-off stand 41 and training it over guides 42 and 43. In this step of the procedure the dyestuff is soaked up and retained only by the untreated surface 31 of the double cloth 31, 32. As will be understood, the dyebath or dyestuff composition has no effect upon, and is not retained by, the liner 32 which has been pre-treated as described with a resist composition 39 for the express purpose of making the liner 32 impervious or impenetrable to the dyestuff contained in the dyebath 40.

After the application of the dyestuff 40, further in accordance with the processes outlined in Fig. 8 hereof, the composite resist printed liner 32 and dyed drapery face 31, still in the form of a double cloth, may be led out of the dyebath 40 through the nip of the squeeze rolls 44 and 45 where excess dye liquor is removed therefrom, and then sent to a drying oven 46 or an equivalent device where the double cloth may be arranged in the form of a plurality of festoons as by being trained over the spaced guide members 47, 48. Alternate suitable drying means, of course, may also be employed, it being understood that obviously the drying oven is not critical.

Following the step of drying, the cloth may be wound up on a take-up roll 49, rotating in a suitable stand 50, and thereafter otherwise treated or finished according to conventional or standard finishing procedures. Subsequently the double cloth which has now been dyed on its drapery portion or face 33, and resist printed on its liner face 34, and after-treated according to any desired finishing specifications, may be cut up by conventional methods into finished articles or draperies.

A modification of the present invention shown in Fig. 9 contemplates the substitution of the step of color printing for the step of dyeing of the drapery face 31. For that reason the step of reserve printing of the liner face 32 which is shown in Fig. 8 and described above is eliminated. The reason for this omission is that in this case the weaving construction of the liner member 32 is so close or dense that this construction in and of itself is suficient, without the aid of a reserve printing or application of resist composition, to prevent the entrance or passage into the lining 32 of the printing paste subse quently deposited on the drapery face 31 of the double composite cloth 31, 32. It should not be understood from this that in this instance the construction of the cloth lining 32 necessarily must be closer than that required in the case of the pre-treatment by reserve or resist printing as seen in Fig. 8. On the contrary, it is altogether practical to use liner cloth 32 which has exactly the same construction for both embodiments; namely, for pre-printing a reserve or resist followed by dyeing as shown in Fig. 8, and color printing only instead of dyeing, without any pre-printing of a resist, as seen in Fig. 9. The reason for the difference in the two procedures is that in dyeing and in printing the face 31 compositions of differing viscosities are employed. That is to say, in the case of dyeing as per Fig. 8, the composition contained in the dyebath 40 is much less viscous, or its Viscosity is much lower-than that of the printing paste applied to the drapery face 31 as per Fig. 9. Therefore, because the printing paste is much thicker or more sticky than the material in the dyebath 40, it is much more readily controlled so far as the extent and depth of penet'ration is concerned. In the case of the dyebath there is virtually no control, or at least less control, of the depth of penetration of the dyeing composition: and thus the step of pre-printing with a resist for the lining material 32 is indicated. Where the paste is employed, however, this extra control by pre-treatment is not indicated and is unnecessary for the reasons stated.

Proceeding now to a further description of the modification of Fig. 9, this apprehends a less complex arrangement of apparatus suitable for carrying out the embodiment of color printing without pre-treatment. This may comprise, as shown, the let-01f reel 51, rotating in a fixed stand 52 so as to unwind therefrom an untreated double cloth 31, 32, which, after passage over the leasing rods 53 and 54, is passed by any suitable motive means (not shown) into the nip made by a conventional three ro'll printer unit comprising a rubber covered pressure roll 55, an applicator or printing roll 56, and the furnisher roll 57. This assembly of rollers 55-57 is constructed and arranged to receive a deposit of color printing paste 58 of any desired shade or combination of colors, and to deposit the same on the rotating surface of the print roll 56, from which the color paste 58 is transferred to the face or free surface 31 of the composite drapery material 31, 32. Subsequently, the composite material having its drapery face 31 color printed with any desired pattern, and having its under face or liner 32 still in the greige, that is not printed, and undyed, may be dried and/or cured as by means of an oven 59, or other suitable heating device, and then wound up on a take-up roll 60 for further or final disposition.

It will be appreciated, of course, that with respect to the modification of Fig. 9, although as described above this involves omission or elimination of the step of pretreatment by the appl-ication of a reserve or resist composition to the liner surface 32 of the composite drapery material 31, 32, nevertheless, if desired, there may be substituted for the step of pre-printing with a reserve the step of pro-dyeing the liner 32, and alternatively the step of pre-printing the same liner 32 not with a resist material but rather with a color print paste so that an attractive design or pattern may be added to the lining face 32, and in this instance, of course, the effect would be to have a drapery fabric with two faces, both of which, front and back, are design printed.

It will also be understood, of course, that in addition to the application of reserves or resists and of dyestuffs and of printing pastes, the invention presumes or presupposes that in appropriate instances the procedure may further include treating the cloth by impregnating the same with thermosetting and/or thermoplastic or other resins or agents to prevent undue shrinkage of the double cloth 33, 34 and promote dimensional stability thereof, or for related or other objects. Such resins or agents may be applied individually or incorporated in the dyebath or resist or color printing pastes.

It is further intended herein that as another alternate procedure to the embodiment shown in Fig. 8 which has the step of pre-printing with a resist, there may be sub- 7 stituteil theuse-for the liner component of yarns made "from 'fibers of such-composition that this lining material 32 m no affinity forthe particular dyestufi subsequently applied to theface 31 of the drapery. For example, the dyestutf-known as Neutracyl Yellow N-and-so1d'by the Du Pont de Nem'ou'rs Company, introduces fast-'to-light reddish-yellow shades of color'to 'both nylon'and wool from neutral dyebat'hs. However, *the same material shows little or no staining or other elfect on cottoua'nd the -synthetic*cellulosic fibe'rs. 'Ihu's the-present double clotl'i "maybe made of nylon for the face and acetate 'ray'o'n *for the back or lining. After'weaving, the whole fabric may be dyed in aba th O'fthe Du "Pout Neuti'acyl Yellow 'N. The 'dye will color only the nylon race component, leaving substantially 'unalfect'e'd the lining, since the latter ismadeof fibers'having-no real affinity forsuch coloring composition.

Furthermore, although "as described above the several procedures may not always-be continuous-from'b'eginning to'end, neverthelessitis intended to-be within the scope ,of this 1 invention" to include" continuous 'and uninterrupted processes; for examplqin 'a description relating to Fig. -8, it is-said that after the application of the resist printing composition 39 there may be a drying interval, and-the apparatus schematically illustrated suggests'at that point a stoppage of thematerial in transit. It must beunder- "stood ho'wever, thatin practice there-need not necessarily 'be such a stoppage, and thatthe components making'up (the-resist composition may 'be selected with a view to "the "desirability of quick'drying so that the need forany stoppage would be 'elirriinated; and, of course,'instea'd of "merely relying on the inclusion of quick drying components inthereserve printing composition there might be substituted therefor, or used in conjunction'thereu'rith, auiiliai'y apparatus, as for ex-ample, a bank, or more than one-bankyof' infra'red"drying lamps.

what is claime d is:

"1. Double cloth drapery fabric comprising a lining locally printed with a resist, and a face "having color printed portions in registration with the locally printed areas of thelining.

2. Method of making double cloth drapery-fabric comprising the steps ofil'ocallyprinting a resist onone of 'the two 'cloths making 'up-th'e double cloth, while preventing any penetration of the nesist into the second or the double cloths, and subsequently locally applying a color printing paste to 'the'secon'd cloth-while preventin gtpenetration of the resist rp'rinted firstcloth by the c'olor' p'rint- -ing paste, the locallly cdlbnprinted portions 'ofthe -s'econd clothbeing' in registration with the locally resist-printed 3. Composite 'lin'ed'drapery fabric comprising-a double cloth having a printed face and an unprinted "lining pre- -"tr'eate'tl with a resi st rendering the surface ofthe lining impenetrable to coloring'composition.

4. "Composite lined drapery fabric comprising a double cloth having a greige face and a liner incorporating -'a resist rendering "the surface of the diner impenetrable to any coloring composition subsequently applied to the greige face.

'5. Composite lined draperytabric; comprising a -'double el'oth havin'g a color-carrying -face and a lining incompatible with 'passage'dfcolor from the faceyto said lining.

'6. Composite lined-drapery fabric comprising a double 'cloth having aface member and "aliner pre-tr'eate'd with aresist to render said liner incompatible with passage 'ofcolor from' the 'face member to the liner.

References 'Cited inthe file of this. patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 15,959 .Derby Oct. '21, 1856 499,687 -'Whiteheatl-etal June 13, -1 893 499,690 Whitehead "et al June 13,1893 708,907 :McLean Sept.9, 1902 779,300 Morton '"Ian. 3, 1905 ,1',474,182 Stroock Nov. I3, 1923 1,622,013 Whiting Mar. 22, '1927 2,068,770 'Schwarzchild I an. 26, 1937 2,638,129 Van Risseghem May 12,1953

FOREIGN PATENTS 5,087 'Great Britain Mar.'4,"1'903

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