CN102086555B - Pure mulberry silk fabric comprising double sided warp patterns - Google Patents

Pure mulberry silk fabric comprising double sided warp patterns Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102086555B
CN102086555B CN201010621981.3A CN201010621981A CN102086555B CN 102086555 B CN102086555 B CN 102086555B CN 201010621981 A CN201010621981 A CN 201010621981A CN 102086555 B CN102086555 B CN 102086555B
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Prior art keywords
fabric
cloth
warp
mulberry silk
satin
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CN201010621981.3A
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CN102086555A (en
Inventor
俞丹
林平
徐凡凡
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HIGH FASHION SILK (ZHEJIANG) CO Ltd
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HIGH FASHION SILK (ZHEJIANG) CO Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a pure mulberry silk fabric comprising double sided warp patterns. The fabric comprises a group of upper warps, a group of lower warps and wefts, wherein the wefts are interwoven with the group of upper warps and the group of lower warps; the group of upper warps and the group of lower warps are bound to form an upper satin fabric layer and a bottom satin fabric layer of a double-layer satin fabric; and floral patterns are printed on the group of upper warps and the group of lower warps. Due to the adoption of the technical scheme, two exposed surfaces of the double-layer fabric are provided with clear floral patterns. The pure mulberry silk fabric can be taken as a double sided warp-printed yarn-dyed pure mulberry silk curtain fabric, a double sided warp-printed yarn-dyed pure mulberry silk screen fabric, a double sided warp-printed yarn-dyed pure mulberry silk fashion fabric and a double sided warp-printed yarn-dyed pure mulberry silk scarf fabric.

Description

Comprise two-sided pure mulberry silk fabric through flower
[technical field]
The present invention relates to a kind of pure mulberry silk fabric that comprises two-sided through flower, this pure mulberry silk fabric can be applicable to high-grade curtain, the screen of luxurious hotel and household, and high-grade clothing and scarf.
[background technology]
Traditional lining pattern is directly on the lining that weaves, to carry out stamp to form, because the used dyestuff of lining stamp is easy to infiltration and diffusion, printed color can infiltrate into the back side from the face of undertaking the printing of; If directly print duplex pringing, dyestuff penetration the two sides of lining, cause the perfecting floral pattern smudgy; Destroyed the due visual effect of decalcomania; Being difficult to guarantee two-sided patterned clear wash rice in the practice, therefore, is that client or ultimate consumer are difficult to accept this fault.
The single face warping and printing product has appearred thus on the market, but the also prematurity of chine technology: mainly show the following aspects:
1, usually before this at the enterprising line stamp of passing through of transition cloth; Floral designs are more clear during transition cloth chine; The chine warp of taking out the parallel of transition cloth then and keeping transition cloth row is again weaved the formed pure mulberry silk fabric that has through flower, behind following machine, watches, and floral designs are unintelligible;
2, the single face warping and printing product only has a pattern, can't satisfy two-sided fashionable dress, the needed double-side pattern function of scarf dress ornament, and curtain and screen need have the use occasion of double-side pattern.
[summary of the invention]
Technical problem to be solved by this invention be overcome the deficiency of above-mentioned prior art and provide a kind of comprise two-sided through the flower the pure mulberry silk fabric, this fabric has two-sided floral designs clearly.
For solving the problems of the technologies described above, the present invention adopts following technical scheme:
A kind of pure mulberry silk fabric that comprises two-sided through flower; Comprise warp and parallel under the warp on a group, a group; Parallel both simultaneously with one group under warp and one group warp interweave; To organize warp and this group again and connect last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer and the end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer of forming double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH through toe-in down, and this group goes up, and warp all is printed with floral designs under warp and this group.
To be perfecting knit curtain pure mulberry silk fabric or perfecting through look to above-mentioned double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH knits screen pure mulberry silk fabric or perfecting through look and knit fashionable dress pure mulberry silk fabric or perfecting is knitted scarf pure mulberry silk fabric through look through look.
The parallel that above-mentioned perfecting is knitted curtain pure mulberry silk fabric through the look mulberry silk of making a living.
Parallel adopt add lustre to without the mulberry silk that comes unstuck, that Fabric Style shows is stiffening, bony is arranged, and can satisfy the instructions for use of window curtain fabric.
The parallel that above-mentioned perfecting is knitted screen pure mulberry silk fabric through the look mulberry silk of making a living.
Parallel select to add lustre to without the mulberry silk that comes unstuck, that Fabric Style shows is stiffening, bony is arranged, and can satisfy the instructions for use of screen lining.
The parallel that above-mentioned perfecting is knitted fashionable dress pure mulberry silk fabric through look is ripe mulberry silk.
Parallel adopts ripe mulberry silk, and fabric shows soft cunning, is prone to gentle U.S.A of the moon of flexing, can satisfy the instructions for use of garment material.
The parallel that above-mentioned perfecting is knitted scarf pure mulberry silk fabric through look is ripe mulberry silk.
Parallel adopts ripe mulberry silk, and fabric shows soft cunning, is prone to gentle U.S.A of the moon of flexing, can satisfy the instructions for use of scarf fabrics.
Compared with prior art, advantage of the present invention and beneficial effect are following:
The double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH that adopts two groups of warps to form, as the exposed face of the last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer that supplies the consumer to use and the exposed face of end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer, pattern all is clearly; Although the medial surface of the medial surface of last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer and end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer thickens after because of dyestuff penetration, two medial surfaces all are hiding and sightless non-use faces, and organizing of the last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer of double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH and end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer all adopted through the face satin weave; Make decalcomania be reflected in the exposed face of SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer and end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer to greatest extent; Promptly appear suddenly, guaranteed the definition of pattern, effectively reduce variegated through flower; Improve color and luster all once; Its obvious technical effects clearly of pattern of the present invention, market is reflected, by the consumer is accepted.
[description of drawings]
Fig. 1 is embodiment 1 a fabric construction sketch map;
Fig. 1 a is the structure cutaway view of Fig. 1;
Fig. 2 is embodiment 2 fabric construction sketch mapes;
Fig. 2 a is the structure cutaway view of Fig. 2;
Fig. 3 is embodiment 3 fabric construction sketch mapes;
Fig. 3 a is the structure cutaway view of Fig. 3;
Fig. 4 is embodiment 4 fabric construction sketch mapes;
Fig. 4 a is the structure cutaway view of Fig. 4.
[specific embodiment]
Use two-sided printing meridian fabric, screen to use two-sided printing meridian fabric, fashionable dress to use two-sided printing meridian fabric and scarf to use two-sided printing meridian fabric to do further explain with curtain respectively below as example.
Embodiment 1: curtain is used two-sided printing meridian fabric
1, specifications design
Last warp 1 is 4/20/22D mulberry silk (a boiled-off silk cream colour), and following warp 2 is 4/20/22D mulberry silk (a boiled-off silk cream colour), and parallel 3 is 4/20/22D mulberry silk (the shallow coffee of raw silk); Finished product door width of cloth 140cm, finished product be through close 140/cm, 54/cm of finished product filling density, thick 34 mommes of finished product.
According to the characteristics of window curtain fabric, fabric feeling requires to endure with all one's will, have bony, parallel 3 should select the mulberry silk that does not come unstuck that adds lustre to slightly.
2, institutional framework design
The last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer A of double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH and end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH B layer adopt eight pieces of satin weave combination tissues.
3, warping
Through Sectional warping machines process respectively two Uneven Width widths be all 143cm through axle, identical through the warping tension force of axle, be all 4CN, through axle to go up axle tension force identical, be all 56CN.
4, weave transition cloth
Two warp axles are weaved on dobby machine at twice, knit altogether with regard to two transition cloth, organize and all adopt plain weave, and parallel all adopts the 30D polyamide fibre.
Wherein, plain weave transition cloth divides the woven process conditions of secondary identical: filling density is 2/cm on the machine, on the machine through close be 69/cm, tension force is 38CN on the machine.
Weave and finish, plain weave transition cloth all by rolling on the cloth beam of dobby machine, wait the location stamp.
5, transition cloth location stamp
Two width of cloth plain weave transition cloth divide secondary at the enterprising line stamp of passing through of warp decorating machine, have package the cloth beam of transition cloth to be put into moving back on Jie's device of warp decorating machine, and manual work is drawn transition cloth termination and evenly overlapped on lining shaft; Waiting to print transition cloth is close on the printing table that is coated with platen glue; Warp, the parallel of transition cloth are fixed, when moving back Jie, rolling transition cloth synchronously, positioned chine and handle; Chine finishes, transition cloth all by rolling on lining shaft.
Thickening agent is conventional REACTIVE DYES, such as the K type REACTIVE DYES of Switzerland Clariant chemical industry Co., Ltd production.
6, beaming
Plain weave transition cloth on two lining shafts behind the stamp divides secondary on beam warper, to carry out beaming, moves back when Jie's plain weave transition cloth and beaming carry out synchronously and extracts parallel, to machine upper and lower beam of a loom.
Wherein, the beaming tension force of upper and lower beam of a loom is all identical: 52CN.
7, twin shaft is weaved
Wear a 4/20/22D mulberry silk (the shallow coffee of raw silk) parallel 3 on the weft-selecting mechanism of dobby machine; The last warp 1 that is positioned at beam of a loom is set in the 1st~8 to sum up; Being positioned at down, the following warp 2 of beam of a loom is set in the 9th~16 to sum up; Adopt upper and lower beam of a loom to weave simultaneously, upper and lower warp connects with same parallel 3 single fisherman's knots respectively, constitutes the last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer A and the end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer B of double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH.
Weaving condition is: on the machine through close be 138/cm, filling density is 54/cm on the machine.
8, grey cloth fixation, typing are handled
On the drying and setting machine to grey cloth on the printed pattern that has of SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer A and end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer B directly carry out fixation and typing; The speed of a motor vehicle is 20m/min; Fixation and setting temperature are 150 ℃, and fixation and shaping time are 60s, promptly obtain two-sided through flower curtain color-woven fabric after the processing.
Embodiment 2: screen is used two-sided printing meridian fabric
1, specifications design
Last warp 1 is 3/20/22D mulberry silk (a boiled-off silk cream colour), and following warp 2 is 3/20/22D mulberry silk (a boiled-off silk cream colour), and parallel 3 is 3/20/22D mulberry silk (the shallow coffee of raw silk); Finished product door width of cloth 140cm, finished product be through close 150/cm, 52/cm of finished product filling density, thick 30 mommes of finished product.
According to the characteristics of screen lining, fabric feeling requires to endure with all one's will, have bony, parallel should select the mulberry silk that does not come unstuck that adds lustre to slightly.
2, institutional framework design
The last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer of double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH and end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer adopt eight pieces of satin weave combination tissues.
3, warping
Through Sectional warping machines process respectively two Uneven Width widths be all 143cm through axle, identical through the warping tension force of axle, be all 3CN, through axle to go up axle tension force identical, be all 45CN.
4, weave transition cloth
Two warp axles divide secondary to weave on dobby machine, knit altogether with regard to two transition cloth, organize and all adopt plain weave, and parallel all adopts the 30D polyamide fibre.
Wherein, plain weave transition cloth divides the woven process conditions of secondary identical: filling density is 2/cm, on the machine through close be 74/cm, tension force is 32CN on the machine.
Weave and finish, plain weave transition cloth all by rolling on the cloth beam of dobby machine, wait the location stamp.
5, transition cloth location stamp
Two width of cloth plain weave transition cloth divide secondary at the enterprising line stamp of passing through of warp decorating machine, have package the cloth beam of transition cloth to be put into moving back on Jie's device of warp decorating machine, and manual work is drawn transition cloth termination and evenly overlapped on lining shaft; Waiting to print transition cloth is close on the printing table that is coated with platen glue; Warp, the parallel of transition cloth are fixed, when moving back Jie, rolling transition cloth synchronously, positioned chine and handle; Chine finishes, transition cloth all by rolling on lining shaft.
Thickening agent is conventional REACTIVE DYES, such as the K type REACTIVE DYES of Switzerland Clariant chemical industry Co., Ltd production.
6, beaming
Plain weave transition cloth on two lining shafts behind the stamp divides secondary on beam warper, to carry out beaming, moves back when Jie's plain weave transition cloth and beaming carry out synchronously and extracts parallel, to machine upper and lower beam of a loom.
Wherein, the beaming tension force of upper and lower beam of a loom is all identical: 38CN.
7, twin shaft is weaved
Wear a 3/20/22D mulberry silk (the shallow coffee of raw silk) parallel 3 on the weft-selecting mechanism of dobby machine; The last warp 1 that is positioned at beam of a loom is set in the 1st~8 to sum up; Being positioned at down, the following warp 2 of beam of a loom is set in the 9th~16 to sum up; Adopt upper and lower beam of a loom to weave simultaneously, upper and lower warp connects with same parallel 3 single fisherman's knots respectively, constitutes the last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer A and the end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer B of double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH.
Weaving condition is: on the machine through close be 148/cm, filling density is 52/cm on the machine.
8, grey cloth fixation, typing are handled
On the drying and setting machine to grey cloth on the printed pattern that has of SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer A and end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer B directly carry out fixation and typing; The speed of a motor vehicle is 30m/min; Fixation and setting temperature are 150 ℃, and fixation and shaping time are 40s, promptly obtain two-sided through the flower floor screen color-woven fabric after the processing.
Embodiment 3: fashionable dress is used two-sided printing meridian fabric
1, specifications design
Last warp 1 is 2/20/22D mulberry silk (a boiled-off silk cream colour), and following warp 2 is 2/20/22D mulberry silk (a boiled-off silk cream colour), and parallel 3 is 2/20/22D mulberry silk (the shallow coffee of boiled-off silk); Finished product door width of cloth 140cm, finished product be through close 190/cm, 48/cm of finished product filling density, thick 22.5 mommes of finished product.
According to the characteristics of garment material, fabric feeling requires soft cunning, be prone to the flexing sense, and parallel should be selected boiled-off silk.
2, institutional framework design
The last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer of double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH and end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer adopt four pieces of satin weave combination tissues.
3, warping
Through Sectional warping machines process respectively two Uneven Width widths be all 143cm through axle, identical through the warping tension force of axle, be all 2CN, through axle to go up axle tension force identical, be all 35CN.
4, weave transition cloth
Two warp axles divide secondary to weave on dobby machine, knit altogether with regard to two transition cloth, organize and all adopt plain weave, and parallel all adopts the 30D polyamide fibre.
Wherein, plain weave transition cloth divides the woven process conditions of secondary identical: filling density is 2/cm, on the machine through close be 94/cm, tension force is 25CN on the machine.
Weave and finish, plain weave transition cloth all by rolling on the cloth beam of dobby machine, wait the location stamp.
5, transition cloth location stamp
Two width of cloth plain weave transition cloth divide secondary at the enterprising line stamp of passing through of warp decorating machine, have package the cloth beam of transition cloth to be put into moving back on Jie's device of warp decorating machine, and manual work is drawn transition cloth termination and evenly overlapped on lining shaft; Waiting to print transition cloth is close on the printing table that is coated with platen glue; Warp, the parallel of transition cloth are fixed, when moving back Jie, rolling transition cloth synchronously, positioned chine and handle; Chine finishes, transition cloth all by rolling on lining shaft.
Thickening agent is conventional REACTIVE DYES, such as the K type REACTIVE DYES of Switzerland Clariant chemical industry Co., Ltd production.
6, beaming
Plain weave transition cloth on two lining shafts behind the stamp divides secondary on beam warper, to carry out beaming, moves back when Jie's plain weave transition cloth and beaming carry out synchronously and extracts parallel, to machine upper and lower beam of a loom.
Wherein, the beaming tension force of upper and lower beam of a loom is all identical: 32CN.
7, twin shaft is weaved
Wear a 2/20/22D mulberry silk (the shallow coffee of boiled-off silk) parallel 3 on the weft-selecting mechanism of dobby machine; The last warp 1 that is positioned at beam of a loom is set in the 1st~8 to sum up; Being positioned at down, the following warp 2 of beam of a loom is set in the 9th~16 to sum up; Adopt upper and lower beam of a loom to weave simultaneously, upper and lower warp connects with same parallel 3 single fisherman's knots respectively, constitutes the last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer A and the end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer B of double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH.
Weaving condition is: on the machine through close be 188/cm, filling density is 48/cm on the machine.
8, grey cloth fixation, typing are handled
On the drying and setting machine to grey cloth on the printed pattern that has of SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer A and end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer B directly carry out fixation and typing; The speed of a motor vehicle is 40m/min; Fixation and setting temperature are 150 ℃, and fixation and shaping time are 30s, promptly obtain two-sided through flower clothes color-woven fabric after the processing.
Embodiment 4: scarf is used two-sided printing meridian fabric
1, specifications design
Last warp 1 is 2/20/22D mulberry silk (a boiled-off silk cream colour), and following warp 2 is 2/20/22D mulberry silk (a boiled-off silk cream colour), and parallel 3 is 2/20/22D mulberry silk (the shallow coffee of boiled-off silk); Finished product door width of cloth 140cm, finished product be through close 134/cm, 42/cm of finished product filling density, thick 16 mommes of finished product.
Press the characteristics of scarf fabrics, fabric feeling requires soft cunning, be prone to the flexing sense, and parallel should be selected boiled-off silk.
2, institutional framework design
The last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer of double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH and end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer adopt four pieces of satin weave combination tissues.
3, warping
Process the warp axle that two Uneven Width widths are all 143cm respectively through Sectional warping machines, identical through the warping tension force of axle, be all 2CN.Upward axle tension force through axle is identical, is all 28CN.
4, weave transition cloth
Two warp axles divide secondary to weave on dobby machine, knit altogether with regard to two transition cloth, organize and all adopt plain weave, and parallel all adopts the 30D polyamide fibre.
Wherein, plain weave transition cloth divides the woven process conditions of secondary identical: filling density is 2/cm, on the machine through close be 66/cm, tension force is 21CN on the machine.
Weave and finish, plain weave transition cloth all by rolling on the cloth beam of dobby machine, wait the location stamp.
5, transition cloth location stamp
Two width of cloth plain weave transition cloth divide secondary at the enterprising line stamp of passing through of warp decorating machine, have package the cloth beam of transition cloth to be put into moving back on Jie's device of warp decorating machine, and manual work is drawn transition cloth termination and evenly overlapped on lining shaft; Waiting to print transition cloth is close on the printing table that is coated with platen glue; Warp, the parallel of transition cloth are fixed, when moving back Jie, rolling transition cloth synchronously, positioned chine and handle; Chine finishes, transition cloth all by rolling on lining shaft.
Thickening agent is conventional REACTIVE DYES, such as the K type REACTIVE DYES of Switzerland Clariant chemical industry Co., Ltd production.
6, beaming
Plain weave transition cloth on two lining shafts behind the stamp divides secondary on beam warper, to carry out beaming, moves back when Jie's plain weave transition cloth and beaming carry out synchronously and extracts parallel, to machine upper and lower beam of a loom.
Wherein, the beaming tension force of upper and lower beam of a loom is all identical: 28CN.
7, twin shaft is weaved
Wear one 2/20/22 mulberry silk (the shallow coffee of boiled-off silk) parallel 3 on the weft-selecting mechanism of dobby machine; The last warp 1 that is positioned at beam of a loom is set in the 1st~8 to sum up; Being positioned at down, the following warp 2 of beam of a loom is set in the 9th~16 to sum up; Adopt upper and lower beam of a loom to weave simultaneously, upper and lower warp connects with same parallel 3 single fisherman's knots respectively, constitutes the last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer A and the end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer B of double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH.
Weaving condition is: on the machine through close be 132/cm, filling density is 42/cm on the machine.
8, grey cloth fixation, typing are handled
On the drying and setting machine to grey cloth on the printed pattern that has of SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer A and end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer B directly carry out fixation and typing; The speed of a motor vehicle is 40m/min; Fixation and setting temperature are 150 ℃, and fixation and shaping time are 20s, promptly obtain two-sided through flower scarf color-woven fabric after the processing.

Claims (1)

1. one kind comprises two-sided pure mulberry silk fabric through spending; Comprise warp and parallel under the warp on a group, a group; It is characterized in that: parallel both simultaneously with one group under warp and one group warp interweave; To organize warp and this group again and connect last SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer and the end SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH layer of forming double-deck SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH through toe-in down, and this group goes up, and warp all is printed with floral designs under warp and this group.
CN201010621981.3A 2010-12-28 2010-12-28 Pure mulberry silk fabric comprising double sided warp patterns Active CN102086555B (en)

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
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CN102086555B true CN102086555B (en) 2012-12-12

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Families Citing this family (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103243446B (en) * 2013-04-18 2014-09-17 达利丝绸(浙江)有限公司 Thin-texture woven fabric formed by superfine mulberry silk fibers
CN103243447B (en) * 2013-04-18 2014-09-03 达利丝绸(浙江)有限公司 Production process of superfine mulberry silk fiber woven fabric
CN103668670B (en) * 2013-12-03 2014-11-12 浙江大学 Method for manufacturing printed scarf from ultrafine mulberry silk
CN104544643A (en) * 2014-12-31 2015-04-29 王旭东 Jade care scarf
CN105533871A (en) * 2016-01-25 2016-05-04 苏州艺唐丝绸文化有限公司 Damask silk, silk gauze, silk and satin scarf
CN107280095A (en) * 2017-07-06 2017-10-24 杭州依翰丝绸文化创意有限公司 Ventilated digit printing T-shirt

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN87100264A (en) * 1987-01-08 1987-11-04 李秉仁 Through flower double-sided plush fabric and woollen blanket
CN1554818A (en) * 2003-12-23 2004-12-15 童勇刚 Method for producing warp printed silk
CN2905841Y (en) * 2005-11-22 2007-05-30 俞敏 Printing yarn-dyed fabric
CN201099727Y (en) * 2007-09-29 2008-08-13 俞敏 Chin georgette fabric

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20060180041A1 (en) * 2005-02-15 2006-08-17 Hiroshi Kadota Warp printer, weaving machine and weaving method

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN87100264A (en) * 1987-01-08 1987-11-04 李秉仁 Through flower double-sided plush fabric and woollen blanket
CN1554818A (en) * 2003-12-23 2004-12-15 童勇刚 Method for producing warp printed silk
CN2905841Y (en) * 2005-11-22 2007-05-30 俞敏 Printing yarn-dyed fabric
CN201099727Y (en) * 2007-09-29 2008-08-13 俞敏 Chin georgette fabric

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