US2935749A - Shirt - Google Patents

Description

S. D. BLUE May 10, 1960 SHIRT 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Dec. 21, 1956 INVENTOR. SFoM-Y D BL 05' BY a flTI'ORIV X S. D. BLUE May 10, 1960 SHIRT 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Dec. 21., 1956 mmvroa SIDNEY D. 31.05

United States Patent F SHIRT Sidney D. Blue, Larchmont, NY.

Application December 21, 1956, Serial No. 629,809

3 Claims. ((Il. 2-116)- This invention relates generally to shirts, and more particularly to mens and boys shirts having attached, starehless collars.

The twentieth century has thus far seen three phases of fashion in mens shirts and collars. At the turn of the century the popular garment was the shirt with a neckband which was to be fastened at the throat by a collar stud. This same stud was used for fastening a separate, stiffly starched collar around 'the wearers neck and keeping it attached to the shirt. A stud hole was also provided in the rear of the band to provide for an additional fastening between the shirt and collar. After World War I this fashion gradually. gave wayto a shirt which had the neckband of the collar attached directly to the shirt. This eliminated the need for the shirt neckband, since the neckband of the collar was sewn directly to the body of the shirt; The front extensions or tabs of the collar neckband overlapped at the throat and were provided with a button and buttonhole for fastening. The collar and neckband were usually laundered without starch so that the wearer enjoyed more comfort because of the elimination of the bulk of the extra neckband and of the rigidity of the starched collar. The desire for even" greater freedom at the throat is now evidenced by a great increase in the use of sport shirts for every day wear. The sport or leisure shirt is made with an attached soft collar but the collar does not have a neckband. Instead of two elements, that is, a collar band 'and collar top the sport shirt collar is generally made in one piece with no fold line to mark the division between the portiori which is to serve as a neckband and the portion which is to form the collar top when the collar is buttoned at the throat. Shirts'with such one piece collars are generally worn open at the throat in warm weather and buttoned at the throat in cold weather. This collar is quite comfortable when worn open or closed. In the closed position, since the collar top is sewn directly to the shirt front, the collar slopes low in the front with the collar points resting flat on the wearers chest. Since the collar slopes so low in the front there is no constriction in the area of the Adams apple and it usually lies below the plane of abrasion by the underside of the chin.

A desire to have collar comfort at all times has caused men to wear the bandless sport shirt with a necktie for informal dress wear. Although comfort is achieved, it is at the sacrifice of appearance. Since there is no neckband, there is also no fixed space to accommodate the knot of the necktie with the result that, as the tie is tightened, it rides up on the neck and causes the collar points to be drawn out of their normal position and a very untidy effect is obtained.

Further, where custom requires, for example, in restaurants and the like, men frequently wear a sport jacket over a bandless sport shirt which is buttoned at the neck. Since the one piece collar of the sport shirt cannot be cut so as to form a band and top havingditfer- 2,935,749 Patented May 10, 1960 outer cape portion which becomes compressed under the coat or jacket collar causing the collar points to be thrust forward and usually to protrude outward and over the coat collar or lapel.

In the existing dress shirts having an attached collar formed of separate neckband and top or cape portions cut along difierent arcs to avoid the above mentioned disadvantages of the one piece collars of sport shirts, the neckband portion has ends extending beyond the front end edges of the top portion of the collar and terminating in line with the overlapping edges of the front of the shirt body. Such projecting ends of the neckband portion are provided with a button and buttonhole, re-

spectively, so that, when the shirt is to be closed, the,-

ends of the neckband are overlapped, as are the edges of the shirt front, and the corresponding buttons and buttonholes are interengaged. The overlapped and buttoned together ends of the neckband provide an uncomfortable bulk at the wearers Adams apple and also positivelyjfix the neck size that can be accommodated.

Further, a profile or side view of the average person will reveal that the base of the neck slopes from the back shoulder-neck junction to the front breast boneneck junction. This back to front slope is about two inches on the average figure, but it does vary considerably and covers a range of about one inch to three inches. The existing attached neckbanded collar has the neckband so shaped that it will accommodate itself to the average neck slope. In the closed position the button securing the ends of the band becomes a pivot upon which the horizontal plane of the line formed by the juncture of the ends of the neckband and the shirt front is hinged. 0n the person with a low slope, the front of the shirt draws the entire vertical button alignment downwardly and, since the shoulders block the corresponding downward movement of the entire collar, the front of the collar only is drawn downward and the band extensions or ends pivot, scissor fashion, on the neckband button with the end edges of the extensions being forced downward while the center alignment or pivot remains fixed thus causing theedges of thes'hirt front to gap.

it is a general object of this invention to provide'a collar construction for mens and boys shirts that avoids all of the above mentioned disadvantages of the existing bandless sport shirt collar and of the usual dress shirt collar having separately cut neckband and top portions.

More specifically, it is an object of the present inven tion to provide a collar construction for mens and boys shirts that will afford to the wearer all of the comfort of the one piece or bandless sport shirt collar and that makes it possible for a necktie to be worn with more comfort and neatness of appearance than with any other existing collar construction.

Another object is to provide a collar construction that is substantially adjustable with respect to its circumferential dimension, so that the wearer may make use of the shirt for the full extent of its useful life even though the wearers neck measurement may vary during that time.

Another object is to provide a shirt collar that is adjustable by the wearer with respect to the angle of the front opening so that the angle that is most pleasing may be selected.

Another object of is to provide a collar which sets low at the front thereby imparting a desirable graceful appearance and, at the same time, enabling the placement of the knot of the necktie in such a position that the wearers chin will not rub on the knot, thus protecting the tie from both soil and wear.

Still another object is to provide a shirt collar having a neckband to support the collar top and, thereby, to accommodate a necktie without disturbing or distorting the neat appearance of the collar, and wherein theends V of the neckband merely abut at the front, thus eliminating the bulk of the usual overlapping neckband ends and the rigidity of the circumferential size imposed by the usual buttoning together of the overlapped neckband ends.

It is a further object of the invention to provide an attached shirt collar comprising a neckband portion and a cape or collar top portion which permits the shirt front to lie flat on the chest at the expanded taper of the neck and having the neckband terminating at the front, without overlapping, and fastened in a manner which provides circumferential limitations and yet permits the collar to shape or drape itself to fit the taper and slope of the neck contour without imposing restraint on the neck muscles or causing any feeling of constriction.

A further object is to provide an attached collar shirt which, when worn buttoned at the neck Without a necktie for sport or leisure wear, will present a neat appearance because it provides a symmetrical non-overlapping V- shaped opening at the throat and preferably has a concealed fastening between the uppermost extension of the upper shirt front and the lower margin of the neckband which causes the shirt front to lie smooth and flat at all times while holding the collar, and further to provide a leisure wear collar with a standing neckband and a collar top which is suspended from the neckband with the proper are so that the top drapes close to the back and sides of the neck and the points lie flat on the chest even when a coat or jacket is worn.

A still further object is to provide an attached shirt collar having neckband and top or cape portions for properly receiving a necktie, and wherein the parts of the collar are related to each other and to the body of the shirt so as to provide an air passage between the wearers throat and chest even when the necktie is drawn tight about the neck, thereby to permit body heat to escape upwardly through such passage for providing cooling ventilation.

Finally, it is an object of this invention to provide an attached shirt collar having the foregoing advantageous characteristics and that is no more costly or difficult to produce than the existing attached dress shirt collars.

In accordance with an aspect of the invention, an attached shirt collar includes a standing neckband portion which is secured to the body of the shirt at the neck opening of the latter, but with the ends of the neckband terminating short of the overlapped edges of the shirt front so that the ends of the neckband merely abut, a collar top or cape portion extending downwardly from the upper edge of the neckband portion and supported by the latter, with the ends of the neckband portion extending beyond the front end edges of the cape portion, and means securing the outer overlapped edge of the shirt front, at its upper corner, to the neckband at a location on the part of the neckband attached to the under portion of the shirt front and lying near the lower edge of the neckband. Thus, the ends of the neckband are not overlapped and are not directly secured to each other so that the collar can readily adapt itself to the contour of the wearers neckline regardless of the slope thereof and without disturbing the smooth drape of the shirt front to the contours of the wearers chest.

The above, and other objects, features and advantages of the invention, will be apparent in the following detailed description of an illustrative embodiment thereof which is to be read in connection with the accompanying drawings forming a part hereof, and wherein:

Fig. 1 is a front elevational view of an attached shirt collar embodying the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1, but with one of the collar points bent upwardly to expose the means for closing the collar about the wearers neck;

Fig. 3 is an elevational view of the attached shirt collar of Figs. 1 and 2, but with the collar shown flattened out;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged sectional view taken along the line 4-4 of Fig. 2; and

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the separate neckband and cape portions forming the shirt collar of Figs. 1-4.

Referring to the drawings in detail, and initially to Figs. 1 and 2 thereof, it will be seen that a shirt having an attached collar embodying the present invention and generally identified by the reference numeral 10 further includes the usual body made up of front panels 12 and i4- overlapping lengthwise, at the center of the shirt front, and connected at their upper ends to the usual yoke 16, the front panels and the yoke being cut to form a neck opening 18. Further, it will be understood that the illustrated shirt has the usual sleeves which are not shown in order to permit the relatively large scale illustration of the collar portion of the shirt embodying the present invention.

The collar 10 includes a standing neckband portion 20 and a collar top or cape portion 22. As shown in Fig. 4, the neckband portion 20 includes an outer facing 24 and a coextensive inner facing 26, both made of shirting material which may be the same as that used for the shirt body, and an interlining 28 disposed between the facings 24 and 26 and formed of the usual collar lining material. Similarly, the top or cape portion 22 of the collar includes facings 30 and 32 of the same shape formed of shirting material and an interlining 34 disposed between such facings and formed of the usual collar lining material.

As is usual in the construction of two piece attached shirt collars, that is, collars having separately cut neckband and cape portions, the several layers of the neckband portion 20 and of the cape portion 22 of collar 10 are cut so that the longitudinal edges 36 and 38, respectively, thereof'(Fig. 5), which are eventually to be secured together, have different arcs or curvatures, thereby to ensure that the neckband of the finished collar will hug the tapered contour of the wearers neck, while the cape portion of the collar will fell slightly away from the neckband .to provide space therebetween in which a necktie can easily slide. Thus, as seen in Fig. 5, the convex longitudinal edge 36 of the neckband portion 20 has a slightly greater degree of curvature than the concave, corresponding longitudinal edge 38 of the cape portion 22. Further, the end edges 40 and 42 of the facings and interlining of the cape portion 22 are cut at angles to the longitudinal axis of the collar to form points 44 and 46, and the outer or lower edges 48 of the facings 30 and 32 and interlining 34, which appear at the top in Figs. 3 and 5, are cut with a slight central convexity to fit properly at the back of the wearers neck.

The facings and interlining of the cape portion 22 are secured together along their end edges 40 and- 42 and along their outer or lower edges 48, as by stitching 50, and the longitudinal edge 38 of the cape portion is secured to the longitudinal edge 36 of the neckband, as by stitching 52, with the several layers of the cape portion 22 lying between the facings 24 and 26 of neckband portion 20 and with the stitching 52 also serving to secure together the facings and interlining of the neckband along the upper longitudinal edge and the end edges of the neckband.

In accordance with the present invention, and as seen most clearly in Fig. 3, the length of the neckband portion 20 of collar 10 is greater than the length of cape portion 22, so that the ends 54 and 56 of the neckband portion project beyond the end edges 40 and 42, respectively, of

the cape portion. Further, the length of the neckband portion 20 is, in turn, shorter than the circumferential distance around the neck opening 18 so that, when the lower edge of the neckband portion is attached to the shirt body along the edge of the neck opening, as by stitching 58, the upper ends of the edge portions of front panels 12 and 14 of the shirt body, which are intended to be secured together in overlapping relation by coopcrating buttons and buttonholes 60, as in Fig. 1, will project beyond the ends 54 and 56 of the neckband portion, as at 62 and 64, respectively (Fig. 3). The amounts by which the upper ends 62 and 64 of the edge portions of front panels 12 and 1 4- project beyond the ends 54 and 56 of neckband portion 20 are sufficient so that, when the edge portions of the front panels are overlapped and the collar is closed about the wearers neck, as in Figs. 1 and 2, the ends 54 and 56 will substantially abut and, in no case, will the latter overlap.

time.

Preferably, the edges of ends 54 and 56 of the standing neckband portion of collar 10 are curved and generally inclined with respect to the longitudinal axis of the collar so that, when the latter is closed and the ends 54 and S6 abut, the edges of the latter will define a V-shaped, symmetrical opening 66 at the wearers throat which increases the comfort afforded to the wearer and also pro vides a distinctive and attractive appearance when no necktie is worn. Further, the'stand-ing neckband portion of collar 10 preferably tapers in height from the center or back thereof to the ends 54 and 56, as is apparent in Fig. 3, so that the collar 10 slopes low in the front to avoid any constriction in the area of the wearers Adarns apple, much in the same manner as a one piece sports shirt collar. However, as distinguished from such a one piece sports shirt collar, the neckband portion 29 and the cape portion 22 of the collar .10 positively define the position of the knot of a necktie worn therewith and prevent upward riding of the knot as the latter is tightened, so that the knot of the necktie is located in the region defined by the projecting ends 54 and 56 of the neckband portion well out of any possible rubbing contact with the wearers chin to protect the tie from both soil and wear and to prevent distortion of the collar during tightening of the knot.

In accordance with this invention, the collar 10 is held in its closed position by removably attaching the upper end 62 of the outer overlapped edge portion of front panel 12 to a point on the neckband portion 20 which is located adjacent the lower edge of the latter and under the normal position of the collar point 46, so that the attaching means employed will be normally concealed or hidden from view, even when no necktie is worn thereby to further enhance the appearance of the collar for leisure or sports wear. By way of example, such attaching means may include a loop 68 secured to the corner of the upper end 62 of the overlapped edge portion of front panel 12, and a button 70 secured to the neckband portion 20 at a location which is disposed adjacent the lower edge of the latter at a position normally covered by the point 46 of cape portion 22 so that, when the loop 68 is engaged over button 70 (Fig. 2), the upper ends 62 and 64 of the overlapped edge portions of front panels 12 and 14 are held in the desired overlapped relationship. It will be noted that, although the loop 63 and button 70 hold the upper ends 62 and 64 of the edge portions or margins of front panels 12 and 14 in overlapped relationship and, thereby, hold the collar 10 in its closed condition, such circumferential restraint on the collar acts at the lower edge of neckband portion 20, which normally has a relatively loose fit about the base of the wearers neck, while the upper parts of the neckband and the cape portion 22 depending from the neckband are free to circumferentially expand and contract for providing the desired instantaneous adjustment in circumferential measurement enabling the wearer to make use of the shirt for the full extent of its useful life even though his neck measurements may substantially vary during that Further, since the ends 54' and 56 of the neckband portion 20 of collar 10 are not directly secured to each other, the collar is free to readily adapt itself to the contour of the wearers neckline, regardless of the degree of slope thereof. It will also be apparent that, since the ends 54 and 56 of the neckband portion do not overlap and are not buttoned together, as in the usual dress shirt collar or collar with a standing neckband, there is no central pivot about which the ends of the neckband and the shirt front panels are hinged, so that the adaptation of the collar 10 to the contour or slope of the wearers neckline can occur without, in any way, disturbing the smooth drape of the shirt front over the wearers chest, and particularly without disturbing the vertical disposition of the overlapped edge portions or margins of front panels 12 and 14. This feature is of increased importance in shirts made from vertically striped fabrics, wherein any gaping or distortion of the vertical disposition of the overlapped margins of the front panels is immediately noticeable and detracts from the good appearance of the shirt.

It will be apparent from the foregoing that the collar 10 embodying this invention affords a high degree of comfort to the wearer, and provides an improved fit, both as to the collar and as to the attached shirt and, thereby, improves the appearance of the shirt, when worn either with a necktie, as a dress shirt, or Without a necktie for leisure wear.

Although a particular embodiment of the invention has been described in detail herein with reference to the accompanying drawings, it is to be understood that the invention is not limited to that particular embodiment, and that various changes and modifications may be effected therein without departing from the scope or spirit of the invention, except as defined in the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

1. A dress shirt with attached collar comprising a cloth body having a neck opening and overlapped edge portions extending downwardly from said neck opening, at the front, to define a front opening for the shirt; and an attached collar including a standing neckband portion secured, at its lower edge, to said body alog the edge of said neck opening with the ends of said neckband portion being circumferentially recessed relative to the upper ends of said edge portions and abutting at the front of the collar when said edge portions of the body overlap, a separately cut collar top portion secured only to, and extending downwardly from the upper edge of said neckband portion and having pointed ends, said ends of said neckband portion projecting circumferentially beyond the adjacent ends of said collar top portion, and cooperative, releasable securing means respectively attached to the upper corner of the outer one of said overlapped edge portions of the shirt body and to said neckband portion at a location lying adjacent said lower edge of the neckband portion and spaced circumferentially from the end of the latter secured to the other of said overlapped edge portions so as to be normally concealed under the related pointed end of said collar top portion.

2. A dress shirt with attached collar comprising a cloth body having a neck opening and overlapped edge portions extending downwardly from said neck opening, at the front, to define a front opening for the shirt; and an attached collar including a standing neckband portion secured, at its lower edge, to said body along the edge of said neck opening with the ends of said neckband portion being circumferentially recessed relative to the upper ends of said edge portions and abutting at the front of the collar when said edge portions of the body overlap, a separately cut collar top portion secured only to, and extending downwardly from the upper edge of said neckband portion and having pointed ends, said ends of said neckband portion projecting circumferentially beyond the adjacent ends of said collar top portion, a loop extending from the upper corner of the outer one of said overlapped edge portions of the shirt body, and a button secured on said standing neckband portion at a location adjacent a the lower edge of the latter'and spaced circumferentially from the end of the neckband portion secured to the other of said overlapped edge portions so that, when said loop is engagedover said button, the upper ends of said overlapped edge portions are held in overlapped relationship while said collar is free to adapt to the contours and slope of the wearers neck with said loop and button being concealed from view under a pointed end of said collar top portion. e

3. A dress shirt with attached collar comprising a cloth body having a neck opening and front panels with inner and outer overlapped edges extending downwardly from said neck opening, and cooperative securing means on said overlapped edges holding said edges in overlapped relationship at spaced apart, vertically aligned, locations below said neck opening; and an attached collar including a standing neckband portion attached at its lower edge to the edge of said body along said neck opening and having a circumferential length substantially smaller than the circumferential length of said edge of the body at said neck opening so that the ends of said neckband portion merely substantially abut when the upper ends of said edges of the front panels are overlapped, a collar top portion secured only to, and depending from said standing neckband portion and having a circumferential length smaller than said circumferential length of said neckband portion so that the ends of the latter project beyond the adjacent ends of said collar top portion, and releasable means securing said outer edge of said front panels in overlapped relationship to said inner edge at the top of said overlapped edges and being substantially laterally olfset with respect to said vertically aligned locations of said securing means below the neck opening so that said releasable means securing said overlapped edges at the top of the latter leaves said collar free to adjust to the contours and slope of the wearers neck.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 922,434 Koppelman May 18, 1909 1,729,110 Hirsch Sept. 24, 1929 1,994,600 Weinstein Mar. 19, 1935 2,308,369 Kaplan Jan. 12, 1943 2,385,729 Powell Sept. 25, 1945 2,447,735 Cherin et al Aug. 24, 1948 2,740,124 Walensky Apr. 3, 1956 2,798,225 Jacobson July 9, 1957 FOREIGN PATENTS 16,244 Great Britain July 15, 1907

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