US293446A

US293446A - Thomas s

Info

Publication number: US293446A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1884-02-12
Anticipated expiration: 1901-02-12

Description

THOMAS S. GILBERT, OF NEV HAVEN, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO STROUSE d* CO., OF SAME PLACE.

Marlin,

CORSET.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 293,446, dated February 12, 1884.

Application iled October S, 1883. (Model.)

To all whom, it may concer/t:

Be it known that l, THOMAs S. GILBERT, of New Haven, in the county of New Haven and State of Connecticut, have invented a new Improvenient in Corsets; and I do hereby declare the following, when taken in connection with accompanying drawings 'and the letters of reference marked thereon, to'be a full, clear, and exact description of the same, and which said 1o drawings constitute part of this specification,

and represent, in-

Figure l, a side view of a corset; Fig. 2, transverse section of the two parts which form the gore or section as placed in position for I5 stitching together, Fig. 3, face view of said strips as stitched together; Fig.` 4, section showing the springs introduced into the pockets between the two thicknesses; 5, section same as Fig. et, showing the thicknesses 2o as shirred or fulled onto the spring, Fig. 6, face view, showing the iiexible strips attached to the springs;l Fig. 7, transverse section on line w fr of Fig. 6, enlarged; S, transverse section to illustrate the method of stitching the elastic section to the one thickness of the adjacent sections of the corset, enlarged 5 Fig. 9, transverse section showing the strips f as secured to the one thickness of the adjacent 2 sections; Fig. 10, transverse section on line 3o y y of Fig. 1. i

j This invention relates to an improvement in corsets, with special reference to the introduction of elastic gores or sections, and in which gores or sections the elasticity is produced by the employment of metal spiral or` helical springs, applicable to other garments. Heret-ofore such gores or sections have been made by cutting two thicknesses of fabric broader than the gore or section and running 4o lines of stitches parallel to each other and transversely across the section, the wire springs introduced into the transverse pockets thus formed,and the two thicknesses shirred or fulled upon the springs, the springs extending substantially tothe edge of the fabrics when so shirred. Such a section or gore is introduced between the two thicknesses of the adjacent sections, and lines of stitches run to unite the elastic portion with the adjacent in- 5o elastic portion, the lines of stitches passing over and through the end portions of the springs, such stitching serving to hold the springs, while the shirred fabric permitsthe extension of the springs. In another construction the transverse pockets are formed in the 5 5 two thicknesses of fabric, so as to terminate a little distance from the extreme edges of the two thicknesses, and then the springs 'pass through the pockets. Their ends are secured together outside the pockets and between the 6o two thicknesses of fabric, leaving a portion of ,fabric at each edge extending beyond the springs, and which edges serve to unite the elastic portions with the adjacent inelastic portions. In the first construction described there is an uncertainty as to the springs being properly secured. In the second construction the resistance or support of the springs are the lines of stitches between the springs which form the pockets. These lines of stitches are 7o liable to give way under the constant distention and contractiouof the springs, and make this construction objectionable. Further than this, great care must be exercised in. stitching the two thicknesses together, in order to make the several lines terminate at the same point and leave the edges free for attachment to the `adjacent parts.

The object of my invention is toattach the` springs directly to the adjacent sections of the 8o corset and independent ofthe covering which incloses them; and it consists in the construction as hereinafter described, and more particularly recited in the claims. In illustrating my invention I show the side '8 5 of a corset, the hip-section being elastic. In this illustration, A represents the front section, and B the rear section, these two sections connected at the waist-line by an inelastic band, C, the elastic portions ofthe section D E be- 9o ing respectively above and below the band C. y To construct the elastic connections, I cnt two pieces of fabric of substantially the shape required for the elastic portion, but broader than the space to be filled. :a b, Fig. 2, represent these two thicknesses. The one, a, is cut broader than the other, b. .The two thicknesses are laid together, as seen in Fig. 3, *and so that the narrower piece b will lie centrally upon the under piece, a, and leave the extra Loo 2 seas-ic ber of springs which I desire to introduce,

the lines of stitches being parallel to each other, and so as -to form pockets between them of sufficient dimensions to receive the springs.

The helical or spiral metal springs e are cut to the required length, shorter than the length of the pockets formed between the two fabrics, and are introduced into those pockets, as seen in Fig. 4, e representing the spring. Then the two thicknesses of fabric are fulled or shirrcd onto the springs until the springs will project beyond the edge of the narrower thickness, asv

seen in Fig. 5. To the ends of these springs, which project beyond the narrower thickness, an independent strip of fabric or flexible material,f, is secured, as seen in Figs. 6 and 7. This may be done by clips or stitches. The strips thus secured complete the elastic gore or section. It is attached to the corset first by stitching the edges of the thickness a to the respective adjacent sections of the corset A B, as seen in Fig. 8. In doing this the strips f should be turned up, as seen in Fig. 8, out

of the way of the path of the needle. This done, the strips f are turned down and stitched to thatthiekness of the sections A'B to which the thickness a is stitched, but beyond or outside of the line of stitches which secures the thickness of the elastic portion to those seetions, as seen in Fig. 9. This done, the second thickness of the corset is applied. Its double edge extends over the'strip j', and so as to cover the ends of the spring and the edge of the thickness b of the elastic portion, as seen in Fig. 10, and is stitched to the first thickness in rear of the ends of the springs, it may be through the strip f',- as seen in Fi l0, leaving a' fold or iiap, h, upon the edge of the sections AB, as seen in Fig. l0, which cover the ends of the springs and the edge of the thickness b.

In the illustration the flap is on the outer surface of the corset, and this is preferred, and in stitching it to the inner section the line of stitches is run vclose to the edge of the outer thicknesses up to the springs, and then is turned from the edge and upward until the springs are passed, and then again returned to the edge, as clearly seen in Fig. 1. By this construction I am enabled to stitch the pockets for the springs, section after section, connectedv together in the usual manner of stitching, and without regard to the edge of either thickness, and thereby avoid the necessity of careful work and expense of time necessary in terminating the stitching at a certain predetermined point which is to form the support for the springs, and I make the. attachment of the springs directly to the body of the corset independent of the thicknesses of fabric in which the pockets are formed.

From this description and illustration the method of forming entire sections or gores for different parts of corsets will be readily understood, as, the invention is applicable to such sections wherever they may be desired, or such elastic gores or sections are applicable to other garments than corsets. lMy invention, therefore, is not to be understood as limiting the use of my invention to corsets.

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. An elastic gore or section composed of two thicknesses of fabric, a Z), the one narrower than the other, the two stitched together so as to leave both edges of the broader thickness exposed beyond the narrower thickness, the said stitching being in parallel lines transversely across the two thicknesses, and so as to form parallel pockets between said thicknesses, and helical or spiral metal springs e inclosed by such pockets, the ends of the springs extending beyond the edge of the narrower thickness, and the several springs secured at their ends to strips, f, of fiexible material, independent of the covering material, substantially as described.

2. In a corset, an elastic gore or section composed of two thicknesses, ab, of fabric, stitched together by transverse parallel lines of stitch es to form transverse pockets between said thicknesses, one of said thicknesses broader than the other, and so as to leave the edges of the broader thickness exposed beyond the edges of the narrower thickness, and helical springs c, introduced into said pockets between said thicknesses of fabric, said springs extending beyond the edge of the narrower thickness, the ends of the springs secured to strips, f, of flexible material, independent of the two thicknesses which inclose the springs, the edges of the broader thickness stitched, respectively, to one thickness of the adjacent sections A B of the corset, the iiexible strips which connect the springs stitched to the same thickness of the sections A B, the other thickness of the sections A B of the corset stitched to the first thickness of the elastic section outside the ends of the springs, the edges of said other thickness extending over and so as to form a flap to cover the ends ofthe springs, substanltially as described.

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