US2923945A

US2923945A - Verlengia

Info

Publication number: US2923945A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1960-02-09
Anticipated expiration: 1977-02-09

Description

Feb. 9, 1960 R. VERLENGIA LINER FOR COAT FRONTS 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed July 3, 1958 INVENTOR. RALPH VERLENGIA FIG?) 9 i0 HS-QQ ATTORNEY R. VERLENGIA LINER FOR COAT FRONTS 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG. 6

INVENTOR. RALPH VERLENGIA BY ATTORNEY Feb. 9, 1960 Filed July 3. 195a rrr Fl G. 5

.IFHMEEEF United States PatentO LINER FOR COAT FRONTS Ralph Verlengia, Philadelphia, Pa. Application July 3, 1958, Serial No. 746,497 6 Claims. (Cl. 2-97) The present invention is directed to a liner for coat fronts, and more particularly to a liner which may be readily made and which confers attractive characteristics upon the coat within which it is inserted.

The liners for coats, by which is meant to include jackets, topcoats, and overcoats for men and women and preferably the former has long presented a problem. Thus, such a liner should confer satisfactory stiffness properties upon its coat while at the same time allowing the same to drape in a decorative manner and permitting the wearer freedom of movement of his arms and body.

This invention has as an object a liner for coat fronts which may be readily made and which confers desirable drape and wear characteristics upon the finished coat. This invention has as another object the provision of a liner for coat fronts which stiifens up the chest portion of the coat front and drapes the same outwardly while simultaneously permitting freedom of movement of the users arms.

This invention has as yet another object the provision of a liner for coat fronts which does not interfere with the freedom of movement of the wearer of the coat but which confers highly attractive characteristics upon the coat.

Other objects will appear hereinafter.

For the purpose of illustrating the invention there is shown in the drawings a form which is presently preferred; it being understood, however, that this invention is 'not limited to the precise arrangements and instrumentalities shown. Referring to the drawings, wherein like reference characters refer to like parts:

Figure 1 is a perspective view revealing a coat which comprises the liner of the present invention.

Figure 2 is a plan view of the canvas blank used in the liner of the present invention.

Figure 3 is a plan view of the hair cloth blank used in the liner of the present invention. v

Figure 4 is a plan view of the felt blank used in the liner of the present invention.

Figure 5 is a view revealing an early stage in the formation of the liner for coat fronts of the present invention.

Figure 6 is a view revealing the finished liner for coat fronts of the present invention.

Referring to the drawings and initially to Figure 1, there is shown therein the coat 10 which comprises the right liner 12 and the left liner 14. The

liners

12 and 14 are shown in full line and the remainder of the coat 10 is shown in phantom line, so as to permit an understanding as to the positioning of the

liners

12 and 14 within the coat 10. It will be seen from Figure 1 that the

liners

12 and 14 are disposed in the coat fronts intermediate the facing cloth and the lining of the coat 10.

Since the

liners

12 and 14 are identical except that they are mirror images of each other, I will describe the Fatented Feb. 9, 1960 2 left liner 14, it being understood that the description thereof will be equally applicable to the right liner 12.

The left liner 14 is formed of three plies. The outermost ply 16 which is juxtaposed to the cloth of coat 10 comprises the canvas (see Figure 2). The canvas 16 is the longest of the three plies which forms the liner 14, and extends from the shoulder of the coat down to its bottom edge. The intermediate ply of liner 14 comprises the hair cloth 18 (see Figure 3). The hair cloth 18 comprises the smallest of the three plies. The innermost ply which is juxtaposed to the lining of the coat 10 comprises the felt 20 (see Figure 4). The felt 20 is appreciably smaller than the canvas 16 but somewhat larger than the hair cloth 18.

Referring now particularly to Figure 2, it will be seen that the canvas 16 comprises an elongated member formed of canvas having a lapel portion 22 and an arm hole portion 24. The canvas 16 is cut in the region of the armhole portion 24 at about the point of the lapel portion 22 so as to have the slit 26. The slit 26 extends generally transversely across the canvas 16 and is then directed upwardly at an angle in which such slip resembles a diagonal.

The middle portion 28 of canvas 16 is provided with a dart 30. Such dart 30 comprises a slit which extends inwardly from the outside edge 32 and thence upwardly.

The bottom portion 34 of canvas 16 is preferably of somewhat narrower width than the middle portion 28, with the outside edge 32 of the canvas 16 tapering inwardly.

The canvas 16 is preferably formed of coarsely woven material designated canvas in the garment industry, such material being there used for providing body to garments.

Referring to Figure 3, the hair cloth 18 which is formed of conventional hair cloth material, namely coarse woven material which is heavier than that used to make the canvas 16 comprises a relatively small ply whose uppermost edge 36 generally corresponds to the uppermost edge 38 of canvas 16.

The hair cloth 18 is provided wtih a slit 40 which is is identical to the slit 26 in canvas 16. In fact, as indicated below, the

slits

26 and 40 may be formed simultaneously when the canvas 16 and hair cloth 18 are juxaposed to each other.

The hair cloth 18 is relatively wide in its uppermost portion 42 and generally corresponds to the width be tween the armhole portion 24 and the top lapel edge portion 44 of canvas 16. From the relatively wide uppermost portion 42, the hair cloth 18 decreases gradually in width, its outside edge 46 curving inwardly to meet its inside edge 48. A dart shaped notch 50 is provided on the outside edge 46 spaced a short distance from the bottom of hair cloth 18.

Referring to Figure 4, it is seen that the felt 20 has a general shape along its outside edge 52 which generally resembles the canvas 16, the uppermost portion of the outside edge 52 of felt 20 conforming to the armhole portion 24 of canvas 16. The inside edge 54 of felt 20 is generally parallel to the top lapel edge portion 44 of canvas 16 and comprises a straight extension thereof. The uppermost edge 56 of felt 20 conforms to the

uppermost edges

38 and 36 of canvas 16 and hair cloth 18.

The felt 20 is formed of conventional felt material, and is neither notched or slitted. From its middle portion 58 of maximum Width (adjacent the armhole portion), the felt 20 decreases gradually in width, the outside edge 52 converging towards the inside edge 54.

Referring to Figure 5, the first stage in the process of the present invention is the alignment of the canvas 16 and the hair cloth 18. As shown in Figure 5, the hair cloth 18 is positioned a short spaced distance below the canvas 16 with the

uppermost edges

38 and 36 of the a 3 canvas 16 and hair cloth 18 aligned. The position of the-haircloth 18 beneath the canvas 16 is shown in phantom line. The

slits

26 and 40 are then formed in the canvas 16 and hair cloth 18. The line of stitching 60 which joins the-hair cloth 18 to the canvas 16- isthen added, such a line of stitching 60 being spaced within the borders of the hair cloth 18 and paralleling or substantially paralleling the

slits

26 and 40, and bridging such slits 26- and 40 adjacent the innermost portion thereof.-

The dart 30 is then formed in the canvas 16, although the process of the present invention includes the formation of the dart 30' prior to the assemblage between the canvas 16 andthe-hair cloth 18. Simultaneously with the formation of the dart 30 the notch 50 may be formed in the hair cloth 18. As seen in Figure 5 the apices of the dart 30 and notchStl are common.

The diagonal portions of the

slits

26 and 40 are then joined together by' the line of stitching 62, with the lips of such diagonal portions of the

slits

26 and 40 overlapping. This results in the non-stitched portions of the slits 26 and 4% comprising overlapping lips which provide for an upward urging by the canvas 16 and the hair cloth 18, such non-stitched portions of the

slits

26 and 40=extending from the stitched diagonal portions to the armhole edge portion.

In the finished liner 14 shown in Figure 6,' thefelt 20 is added to the canvas 16 and hair cloth 13. However, before this is effected, the lips of the dart 30 are joined together by stitching 64 for the entire length of dart 30. The joinder of the lips of the dart 30 is effected with such lips overlapping each other.

The line of stitching 66 which is disposed within the borders of the felt 20 is used to secure the felt 20 to the canvas '16. In the region of the liner 14 in which the hair cloth 18 is disposed, such stitching 64 extends through the hair cloth 18 as well as throughthe'canvas 16 and the felt 20. It is to be noted that the uppermost portion 66a of line of stitching 66 passes through the slits 26' and 40 of canvas 16 and hair cloth 18 in the region of the diagonal portion which has been joined together by the line of stitching 62. This portion 66a is arcuately curved, and provides a pocket within which a shoulder pad may be received. It is to be noted that no portion of the stitching 66, or any other stitching extends through the non-stitched portions of the slits'26 and 40, which extend from the stitched diagonal portions of the armhole edge portion.

1 The overlapping lips of the non-stitched portions of the

slits

26 and 40 which surmount the felt 20 upwardly urge the upper portion of the coat 10.

Similarly, the overlapped stitched dart serves to' gently thrust out the chest portion of the coat, while the long downwardly directed bottom portion of the canvas 16 serves'to pull in the waist of'the coat 10. Thus, the liners of the present invention confer fashionable and attractive draping characteristics to the coat within'which they are inserted.

The present invention maybe embodied in other specific 'formswithout departing from the spirit or essential attributes-thereof and, accordingly, referenceshould be made to'the appended claims, rather than to the foregoing specification as indicating the scope of the invention.

I claim:

1. A liner for the coat front of a coat, said liner comprising three plies, said plies consisting of a front ply which has a length when the liner is positioned within the shoulder of the coat such that said front ply extends from the shoulder portion of-the coat front to at least the waist portion of the coat, and a width when the liner is so positionedsuch that said front ply extends from the lapel portion of the' coat to the armhole portion of the coat, an intermediate ply having a length when the liner is so positionedappreciably less than the length of said front ply, and a back ply-having a length when the liner is so positioned somewhat longer than the length of said internal ply but shorter than said front ply, said back ply being formed of heavier material than said front and intermediate plies, said intermediate and back plies having substantially coextensive width in the portion of the liner adjacent the top edge of the liner, the top edges of said intermediate and back plies being spaced closely adjacent to the top edge ofsaid front ply, stitching'joining said three plies together, aligned slits in the uppermost portions of said front and intermediate plies, said slits extending transversewise from the arm hole edge'of said front and intermediate plies and' then angularly upwardly, the internal ends ofsaid slits be ing spaced from the top edges of said front and inter mediate plies, stitching joining the lips of the angularly upwardly extending portions of said slits in overlapped relationship, with the lips 'of the transverswise portions of the slits 'beingoverlapped and "detached fromeacli other? 2. A liner in accordance with claim 1 in which the front 'ply is provided with an upwardly directed dart which extends from a'point on the edge below the'arm hole edge and below the bottommost end of the intermediate ply to a point above the 'bottonimost edge of the intermediate ply.

3. A liner in accordance with claim 2 in Which'the lips of the dart are overlapped and stitched together throughout the entire length of the dart.

4. A liner in accordance with claim 3 having a dart shaped notch on the intermeiate ply within which the point of the dart is extended.

5. A liner'in accordance with claim 1 in which the front ply is formed of canvas, the intermediateply is formed of hair cloth, and the back ply is formed of felt;

6. A liner in accordance with claim 5 in which the back ply is substantially imperforate and'is free from slits.

' References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 733,780 Weber July 14,- 1903 967,888 Decker' Aug. 23, 1910 1,236,278 Ettinger Aug. 7," 1917 2,045,827" Bersin June 30,1936

FOREIGN PATENTS 471,004 Great Britain Aug. 26,1931