US2832960A - Cuffed sleeve construction and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

May 5, 1958 l.. J. ROTHBARTH 2,832,960

CUFFEDWSLEEVE CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD oF NAKING THE. SAME Filed July 14, 1955 LM FIGAl FIGS. F|G 6.

United States Patent Ol CUFFED SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME This invention relates generally to the apparel art and more particularly to an improved sleeve construction for shirts and the like and a method of making the same.

The principal object of the present invention is to provide a novel cuied sleeve construction formed from a single piece of material. Y

It is an important object also to provide a method for constructing a sleeve without placket slits or vents, facings, placket dressings or separate c'utfs, and thereby avoid the practice of gathering, pleating or puckering the sleeve at the cuff.

Another object is to provide a sleeve construction which is more economically manufactured because of less cutting, less waste, less sewing, and'less cost in finishing and pressing.

Another object of the present invention is toprovide a sleeve and cuff construction which freely accommodates the arm, especially at the elbow; prevents drafts and other exposure of the arm due to the elimination of the placket opening; is ironed more easily due to theY elimination of peats or puckets; is easily adjustable for different wrist sizes; and is more economically manu.

factured.'

Another object is to provide a sleeve and cuff construction which obviates the problem of cutting, sewing and matching the sleeve and cuif when printed fabrics are used.

Another object is to provide a sleeve and cuff construction which is neat in appearance, simple in construction, and economical to manufacture.

These and other objects and advantages will become apparent hereinafter.

Briefly, the invention comprises a simple one-piece sleeve and cutf construction wherein the cuff is formed asy a stitched fold and-is of multi-thickness to anchor co-acting fasteners secured thereto. j

The invention also consists in the parts and the arrangements and combinations of parts hereinafter described and claimed. l

YIn the accompanying drawingV which forms a part yof this specification and wherein like numerals refer to like parts wherever they occur:

Fig. l is a front view of a shirt showing sleeve and cuff assemblies constructed in accordance with the teachings of the present invention,

Fig. 2 is a pattern layout of the sleeve, showing in broken lines the amount of Waste material resulting from cutting the sleeve from the pattern,

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2, but showing the material folded into cu stitching position,

Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional view taken along line 4-4 of Fig. 3, Y

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 3, but showing the stitched material turned into cuff forming position relative to the sleeve,

Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional View taken along line 6-6 of Fig. 5,

Fig. 7.is a view showing the finished sleeve and cu construction, y

Fig. 8 is a cross-sectional view taken along line 8--8 of Fig. 7, and j Fig. 9 is a cross-sectional view showing a modification ofthe sleeve and cuff assembly.v

' Referring nowto Fig. l of the drawing, finished sleeve and curi assemblies 10v constructed in accordance with the teachings of the present invention and by the method hereinafter disclosed are shown assembled on a finished shirt 11. Inasmuch as the sleeve and cuff assemblies 10 are identical, only yone will now be described in detail. Fig. 2 shows that the sleeve and cuif assembly 10 is formed from a single piece of material, the pattern Vlayout for the asesmbly 10 results in the formation of a sleeve body 12 and a cuif body 13 integrally connected along a common margin dened by a stitch line 14. The

4 sleeve 12 has a shoulder edge 15, the culi has a cutf edge 16, and the sleeve in final construction is adapted to be sewn along connecting longitudinal seam edges 17.

The cuff is formed in the body 13' by folding the same in such a way as to provide an inner ply`20 and an outer ply 21 connected along a fold line y22, the outer ply 21 after. When the pattern. layout ofthesleeve and cuif v12 and being attached to the sleeve body 12 at the stitch line 14 and the cuff edge 16 defining the unattached edge of the inner ply 20. The fold line 22 also defines the outer marginal edge of the culir 13 when finished on the sleeve 12, and a fold line 23 adjacent to and parallel with the stitch line 14 defines the inner marginal edge of the cui when finished. A longitudinal fold line 24 is provided intermediate the seam edges 17 extending from the shoulder edge 15 to the cuff edge 16, the fold line 24 defining the folded longitudinal margin of the sleeve 12 and culf 13 when the sleeve and cuff assembly 10 is iinished, as shown in Fig. 7.

The cutf 13 is provided with fastening means, such as a buttonhole 27, adjacent to the folded longitudinal margin 24 and a co-acting fastening means, such as a' constructions and methods ofmanufacture, see Fig. 2.v v

inasmuch as the longitudinal seam edges `17 are substantially parallel, the problem of laying out and cutting a conventional tapered sleeve pattern on printed fabrics or the like is obviated, as will become apparent herein- 13 has been blanked out by cutting the shoulder edge 15, the cuif 13 is formed by folding the inner ply 20 and outer ply 21 along fold lines 22 and 23 into three-ply relationship with the sleeve 12 so that the fold line 23 occurs at the outer margin of the sleeve 12, Figs.3 and 4. 'I'he widths of the inner ply 20 and outer ply 21 are predetermined so that the cutf edge 16 will abut the fold line 23 when the cuff 13 has been folded.

The cu 13 is then sewed, as at 26, along stitch line 14 so that the inner ply 20 and the outer ply 21 are maintained in folded relationship. The two-ply cutf 13 is then turned outwardly along stitch line 14 in unfolded relationship with the sleeve 12 so that the fold line 23 defines the inner margin and the fold line 22 defines the outer margin of the cuff 13. As shown in Figs. 5 and 6, the fold line 23 is positioned above the stitch line 14 to form a three-ply French cuff on the sleeve 12.

The next step in the manufacture of the present sleeve constructionistobfold the sleeve 12 and culi "13 along lthe longitudinal fold line 24 so that the longitudinal seam 'edgesl17 aretpositionedfadjacent-to each other. V"liheseam and the -button ,.28 or the Ilike is attached tothe `cuf'lS intermediate the buttonhole 247 `and the longitudinal lseam 1`7. lAs shown `best in Fig. 8, the buttonhole 27 is preferably "formed through both sides of the -cutf 13 adjacent to the foldmargin 24 so that it will bestrengthened bythe four-ply-,materialrat this point. The Vbutton 28 is attached to one side of thecufl 13,-and-ssupported on a'two-ply materih Furthermore, a conventional interliner l(not shown) may be stitched into thecuff 1`3^between the` inner ply20'and theouter ply `21whereby the buttonhole 27 will bersupported by six-ply material and the button 23 bythree-ply material.

lIt is now apparent that the sleeve and cuff assembly 10V has been provided with less cutting and sewing than is required by-co'nventional prior art constructions. Furthermore, the need `for strengthening pieces, or placket slits, facings and placket dressings has been obviated. Inasmuchas the cuff 13 is tformed integral with the sleeve 12 and with substantially parallel longitudinal margins, the problem of gathering, pleating or puckering the sleeve 4at the cuff `in conventional 'tapered `sleeve constructions is eliminated whereby yeasier'finishing andlpressing is facilitated.

The present sleeve construction also freely accommodates `the armjespecially atthe elbow, because of thefullness of the material at that point; and because of the elimination of placket vents or slits, the exposure fof the arm to drafits, dirt and the like is prevented. In addition, the button 28 or other fastener may be positioned at any pointon the cuff 13 to vary thesize-of the -wrist opening.

When ythe sleeve kand cuff assemblies '10 are butt'oned, as in Fig.` l, the fold -margin 24 is turned inwardly `toward the seam margin 17 so thatthe buttonholeeportion of the cuff 13 laps over the lbutton portion `of the culi, a .graceful :taper ithus `being :provided from yadjacent the elbow tothe wrist of the wearer.` 'lt is `to be `understood that the -elirninationof -the =placket vent 'enhances the safety of the wearer around machinery and the like, jand thatthe ffold or `tpleat formed -`by the overlapping of 'the folded margin 24l=on fthe sleeve 12 in no way reduces this advantage-inasmuchas any `projectingobject -c'a'tching the fold would 'simply cause fit to open -up or unfold.

An important featureof Lthe present -sleeve construction iis the simplicity Ywith which patterned goods may be layed out for cutting. `Ina'smuch as the sleeve f12 and cuff 13 are integral, no matching is required thereby saving time and the material formerly lost lby'cutting.

vFig. 9 illustrates la simplied form of the invention which may be practiced when the sleeve and cuff assembly is being formed from reversible goods, such as White shirt material wherein both sides of the cloth are identical. 1n this embodiment the cui 13 comprises an inner ply 20 formed integral withthesleve 12 and an outer ply 21" attached to the inner A,ply 20 along a fold line 22', the'outer ply 21' having the-cui edge 16 formed on'its unattached edge.V The cui 13 is formed by folding the blank along a fold line 30 adjacentto the cuff edge 16' and along fold line 22 whereby the former denes the e inner margina'nd thelatte'r defines 'the outer margin of the cuff 13'. The sleeve 12 and thelcutf 13 are then stitched at a point adjacent to the inner margin.

It is to be understood that the foregoing description and the accompanying drawings have lbeen given only by way of illustration `and'examplaand that changes and modiications in the `present disclosure, which will bereadily apparent to all skilled in the art, are contemplated as within the spirit Iandscope of thepresent invention, which is limitedonly by the claim which follows.

What I claim is:

A cuifed shirt sleeve formed throughout from an elongate single piece of material, the sleeve having at one end an edge for attachment 4to the shoulder of a shirt and having an under-arm seam extending through the entire length thereof, a cuff formed of the said material by an upturned upper fold, an outer downturned fold and an upturned lower fold, said lower fold and said outer fold forming-respectively inner and outer plies of the culi material, said lower fold having an edge portion located between the 'upper fold andthe outer fold, the said upper fold, the said edge portion of the lower fold and the outer foldbeingjoined together -by a line of stitching 'whereby there `is formed a tuck above 'the stitching defining the top of the icuii, a 'button secured to the outer face of the cuff bystitchingpassing through the said inner yandoiiter plies and spaced a ls'ubstanti-al distance widthwise of Vthc sleeve from the under-arm seam, and a button hole-formed through four plies of the cul material and bordered by stitching passing through said fourv plies, the said button hole -being'spaced a substantial distance from the button on the side of the Ibutton remote from the under-arm seam, -said button and button hole being adapted 'to secure the-cuilE in a'folded condition.

References Cited in the tile of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 552,601 Williams Jan. 7, 1896 755,781 `Lanier Mar. 29, 1904 1,012,897 Nathan et al Dec. 26, 1911 1,912,327 Vaccaro May 30, 1933 2,098,847 Wenzel v Nov. 9, 1937 2,156,206 Takahashi Apr. 25, 1939 2,187,447 Chait et al. Ian. 16, 1940

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