US281166A - Eichaed h - Google Patents

Description

[No Model.)

' R. H. WADLOW.

SHOE.

No. 281,166. Patented July 10, I883.

a PETERS Flwlolilhugupher. \Vashinglun. uIQ

' UNITED STATES RICHARD H. \VADLOW',

OF ATLANTA, GEORGIA.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 281,166, dated July 10, 1883.

Application filed March 29, 1883. (No model.)

The invention relates more particularly to that class of shoes in which both the vamp and counter are made in one piece, with only a single seam, and that at the central partof the heel.

In these shoes and in all others, so far as I am aware, heretofore made, they have been so cut that crimping has been necessary to greater or less extent, or force in lasting has been used sufficient to strain and practically crimp the leather when it was drawn over the last.

I have aimed in making my improved shoe so to cut the piece of leather and apply it to the last that I form the vamp and counter in one piece without seams, without crimping, and fitting smoothly and easily over the last,

and fitting also easily and smoothly to the foot when the shoe is thus made.

In the drawings, Figure 1 shows the piece forming the upper and counter as cut out ready for the last. Fig. 2 shows the flap, which may be formed out of the piece cut from the space A in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the shoe. Fig. l is a front view of the shoe. Fig.

5 shows an extra or second flap, detached.

In making my improved shoe I cut the leather for the upper and counter in a single piece, in the form shown at B in Fig. 1. It will be observed that the parts which form the heel are spread to a considerable width, and that a large space, A, is left between the parts which form the counter. Ordinarily, in cutting the nppers and counters in one piece, in making shoes in this way, the two extensions which form the counter are made by a single central slit, instead of the large space A in my improvement. In addition to this, I cut out a narrow piece, (6, extending centrally from the opening A toward the toe, for the purpose hereinafter explained. This piece I place upon the last, after wetting it, and it may be drawn over the last and secured by hand with out the use of pinchersthat isto say, the form is such that no crimping or undue strain is put upon any part of the leather. I first draw the leather over the ball and tack it down on the last. The toe-is then turned up and drawn back. I then place the two thumbs, one on each side of the small of the instep, and press the flap inward over the last from the instep to thetoe. This will throw the leather smoothly down upon the last and avoid all wrinkles. In t-hisway the shoe is lasted without straining the leather, and the leather will retain the shape of the last. The sides are brought together in the rear to form the counter, and secured in the usual way. The slit a in the in step allows the heel parts to be separated more widely, and when they are brought together upon the last the instep will be forced up, and the leather, spreading at the slit, will conform to the shape of the last without straining. I prefer to cut the forward end of the slit a rounded, as shown, in order to avoid any tearing of the leather. 0n the front of the shoe, and over the space a, I stitch the flap O, which may be cut from theleather taken from the space A, and afterward shaped according to the fancy. It is stitched around the lower part, as at b b, the upper part forming the flap proper. The loose part of this flap may extend to any desired height, and be extended down over the vamp to break the width of the foot. If I desire to make a high shoe, I add a piece, I), forming the top of the quarter. This extends down on the inside of the counter, under the insole, and forms a lining. Its front edge is shown at the dotted line (Z, Fig. 3, and it is stitched, on the line 0 c of the same figure, along the top of the counter. It requires no stitching on the front edge, as it may be in one piece, leaving no seam whatever on the inside. lVhen the extension is applied to the shoe, the flap 0 should be brought up approximately to its upper edge, and this forms a complete shoe, requiring only a suitable strap or fastening over the front. For this purpose I apply the straps e e, and I prefer the form of buckle granted me in Letters Patent of the United States on the 14th day of February, 1882; but

any other buckle or fastening may be used, if preferred. When this piece D is applied, I perforate it with a series of holes, as shown in Fig. 3, as I have found this to prevent the feet from becoming cold or uncomfortably warm in fact, to be a perfect means of ventilation. The holes, it will be noticed, are punched around the ankle, which is thefirst part of the foot to perspire, and the heat escaping through the ventilating-holes, the other part of the foot is prevented from becoming moist, and consequently is kept warm. The ventilation of the shoe at this point, I find, tends to keep the heat of the feet at an even temperature at all times. As an additional extension for use, if it be desired to extend the shoe higher, I use a supplemental flap, E. (Shown detached in Fig. 5.) It is cut from a single piece formed with buttonholes f, which are fastened to buttons 9 on the extension D. By the use of this flap a highcut shoe may be obtained and all wrinkles in the instep or bend of the foot avoided, and at the same time ease is given to'the bending of the foot, and the ankle is well supported. The shape of the part shown in Fig. 1 about the slitted portion a allows the leather to run up high enough 011 the instep to give firm support and attachment for the flap, and holds it securely against being pressed forward by the foot. The flap prevents any spread of the leather, and makes a secure piece of work.

It will be seen that my construction is adapted to three different heights of shoes. I

may give Iit 'the height afforded. by the piece B without the extension D, still using the 3 5 flap C and the buckle or equivalent fastening. With the same construction of the part B, I may add the extension D, or, in addition to that, I may add the extension E.

This shoe is intended to be used by any class 0 of persons, and may be made of any kind of leather adapted for the purpose.

' The shoe may be provided with a tip and finished off in any other manner known to those skilled in the art.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is 1. An upper and counter, B, for ashoe, formed in a single piece, having the space A and slit a enlarged at its extreme end, of substantially the form shown, and adapted to be lasted upon the shoe in the manner described.

2. The combination, in a shoe, of the piece B, flap 0, and extension D, said extension forming the inner lining of the counter, the parts being combined as set forth.

3. The combination, in a shoe, of the piece B, flap 0, extension. D, and flap E, all as set forth.

I11 testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two sub scribing witnesses.

RICHARD H. VVADLOWV. \Vitnesses:

W. N. PACE,

W. R. PERKINS.

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