US2810205A

US2810205A - Bound buttonhole layout guide

Info

Publication number: US2810205A
Application number: US635629A
Authority: US
Inventors: Doris M Beck
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1957-01-23
Filing date: 1957-01-23
Publication date: 1957-10-22
Anticipated expiration: 1974-10-22

Description

Oct. 22, 1957 D. M. BECK BOUND BUTTONl-IOLE LAYOUT GUIDE Filed Jan. 23, 1957 ook/5 M. 55C K,

HER HTTORNEY Unite The present invention relates generally to the art of tailoring, and is primarily directed to the provision of a novel device adapted to facilitate the layout of buttonholes. v

In the art of tailoring, it is common knowledge that considerable difficulty is usually encountered by a seamstress attempting to properly space and locate the markings for button holes, particularly when the ultimate or finished buttonholes are to be vof the bound type.

There are definite rules that have been established and are recognized as important with respect to the proper disposition and size of bound buttonholes. Thus it is particularly desirable that an ultimate bound buttonhole be accurately formed for easy passage therethrough Yof its associated button, without however being too large, as is understood. It is further well established and desirable that bound buttonholes be formed normal to the finished edge of a garment. Consequently, the problem of accurately marking the precise area wherein the ultimate buttonhole is to be constructed is one well recognized in the tailoring art as presenting considerable difficulty.

Ordinarily, the spacing of the buttonholes relatively to one another is indicated on the pattern, but the proper spacing of them relatively to the edge of the material, has heretofore presented quitea problem, inasmuch as that spacing will depend on vthe size of the buttons selected.

In other words, it is also well established in the tailoring art, that the distances between the edge of the material and the lirst thereto adjacent corners of the bound ybuttonholes should be at least approximately equal to the diameters of the buttons contemplated for a particular garment.

Consequently, the task of laying out the requisite markings Ito construct for example, four buttonholes that are not only accurately aligned, but also properly spaced from the edge ofthe material in accordance with the accepted rules as determined by the diameter of the buttons selected, has heretofore been Va tedious and difficult one, as should be apparent.

The primary object `of my invention therefore, is to provide a novel though simple device wherewith to overcome these problems. To this end the invention provides a rectangular plate having a series of spaced elongated openings formed therein. Each opening is rectangular, but the lengths of them increase progressively from the smallest to the largest. When the device is properly positioned on a piece of material, each of said openings is designed to present a pencil guide for marking ron the material an accurate layout for the correct buttonhole construction requisite for a particular button, as will be explained.

The plate has a guide edge facilitating its placement in proper position, and each of said series of slots, beginning with the smallest and ending with the largest, is located progressively farther removed from said guide edge, ,so that when the device is properly positioned on a piece tes Patent 'l of material, the elongated openings also automatically serve to provide the proper transverse spacing of the buttonhole layout, as will likewise be explained in more detail.

The invention is illustrated on a sheet of drawings that accompanies this specification, and a more comprehensive understanding of its features and advantages may be had from the detailed description to follow with reference to said drawings, wherein:

Figure 1 is a top plan View of a bound buttonhole layout guide incorporating the principles of the present invention;

KFigure 2 is an edge view thereof;

`Figure 3 is sectional View taken on the line 3 3 of Figure 1;

Figures 4, 5, and 6 are diagrammatical views on a reduced scale, demonstrating an exemplary manner wherein the invention would be employed in the accurate layout of bound buttonholes.

The layout guide of my invention is generally designated 10 and comprises a rectangular plate 12, preferably but not necessarily having rounded corners as shown. The plate 12 may be of metallic material, preferably aluminum, or it may be formed of plastic material if desired.

L Numeral 14 designates what Yis termed the guide edge of the plate 12, and formed in said plate is a series of elongated rectangular openings each spaced a determined distance from said guide edge. As clearly illustrated, the lengths of these openings vary, each successive opening, beginning at the upper portion of therplate'and progressing downwardly, being longer than the one thereabove. Further, it willl also be observed that, each successive opening is farther removed from the guide edge. 14 than the one thereabove, and that all of the openings are formed in a plane normal to said edge.

The first or smallest of these openings is designated 16. The size of opening 16 is such as to facilitate the construction of accurate layout lines for producing a bound buttonhole proper for a standard line #24 and #28 button, and markings are visibly exhibited on plate 12 adjacent said opening to so indicate, as shown. Transversely of the plate 12, the opening 1.6 is dened by

edges

18 and 19, and the distance between these edges corresponds with that between said edge 18 and the guide edge 14. 1

The next of these openings is designated 20. The opening 20 is dimensioned so as to facilitate the construction of accurate layout lines for producing a bound buttonhole proper for a standard line #30 and. #34 button, and markings are visibly exhibited on plate 12 adjacent opening 20 to so indicate. Transversely of said plate, this opening is delined by

edges

21 and 22, and the distance between these edges corresponds with that between said edge 21 and the guide edge 14.

The succeeding opening is designated 23, and is dimensioned to facilitate the construction of accurate layout lines for producing a bound buttonhole proper for a standard line #36 and #40 button, as the markings on plate 12 adjacent opening 23 indi-cate. Transversely of said plate, the opening 23 is defined by

edges

25 and 26. The distance between these edges corresponds with that between the edge 25 and the guide edge 14 of the plate.

Numeral 27 designates the next opening of the series. The size of this opening is adapted to facilitate the construction of accurate layout lines for producing a proper bound buttonhole for a standard line #45 button. Similarly to the pattern that should now be apparent, the distance between the

edges

29 and 31 of this opening is equal to the distance between said edge 29 and the guide edge 14.

3 i The final elongated rectangular opening of the series is designated 32.` This opening is of a size determined to facilitate the construction of accurate layout lines for a` bound buttonhole to accommodate the largest button conventionally in present day use, that is, a line #60button. The distance between the

edges

33 and 35 of the opening 32 corresponds with that between said edge 33 and the guide edge 14 of plate 12.

From the foregoing description augmented by the drawings, it should be manifest that the present layout guide contemplates the whole rangey of button diameters normally employed in the tailoring art.

Use

The manner wherein the inventionmay be employed will be briefly explained with attention directed to the diagrammatical views of Figures 4 through 6. It will be assumed for example, that the material M there exhibited represents a fragmentary portion of a ladys coat or similar garment wherein bound buttonholes are to be constructed. The raw edge of the material is identified at RE, this edge having been cut in accordance with `a pattern that had been superimposed on the material as is customary. lt will further be assumed that what is called the wrong.side of the material Mis uppermost, and that the pattern calls for a stitch line and specifies buttonholes to accommodate line #36 buttons. The stitch line markings, shown in long dash lines, may be applied before the pattern is removed, as is understood.

With the pattern now removed, the device would first be disposed on the material M with its guide edge 14 in alignment with the edge RE, whereupon a series of pencil marks as suggested at A would be applied to the material immediately inside the edges and 26 of the elongated opening 23.

It is of course apparent that only one pair of pencil markings A would be applied at a time. In other words, after a first pair of marks had been applied, the device 10 would be shifted, and with the guide edge 14 thereof again disposed in alignment with the edge RE, a second pair of markings `A `would be applied, and so on as should be understood.

Thereupon, with the device 10 removed, a strip of organdy O, or similar material, would be basted to the` material as suggested by the baste stitches B, it being observed that the width of the selected strip O should necessarily overlap and extend beyond the pencilapplied guide marks A.

With the buttonhole reinforcing strip O basted in appropriate `position as in Figure 4, the garment pattern would again be superimposed on the material M, whereupon suitable markings C would be `applied to the strip O at points in accordance with the buttonhole spacing prescribed and indicated on the pattern as is understood. The markings C are illustrated in the drawings in the form of lines, but it is noted that they could be otherwise indicated, inasmuchv as they serve primarily in a guide capacity for the proper disposition of the plate 12 in the -achievement of the principal objectives of my invention.

With attention now focused particularly on Figure 5,`

the guide edge 14 `of the plate 12 would now be precisely aligned with the material edge RE in `such manner that one of the markings C, irrespective of its form,

would present itself centrally within the opening 23.`

Thereupon, with a sharply pointed pencil bearing against the edges defining `the opening 23, a rectangular outline would be drawn on the strip O. The plate would be positioned in like manner with respect to each of the markings C, and the procedure of drawing a rectangular outline thereabout would be repeated.

In consequence of these simple operations, a rectangular pencil outline 37 about each marking C will have been visibly depicted on the interfacing or reinforcing strip O, as demonstrated in Figure 6. Thereupon, a line 4 of stitching indicated at 38 would be machine-stitched about each of the penciled outlines 37 as illustrated.

It is of course understood that a series of additional operations would be requisite in order to complete the construction of the buttonholes, but inasmuch as these operations would be accomplished without the employment of the present invention, they need not be described. And although the use of this invention has been exemplarily described only with respect to buttonholes for line #36 and #40 buttons, it is believed manifest that the procedure to be followed would be similar for a line #24 button, aline #30 button, and so on.

In view of the drawings and foregoing description, it should be apparent that my invention provides a simple and inexpensive device wherewith to quickly and accurately perform hitherto tedious and difficult operations. The device has great value in expediting buttonholemaking operations on the part of a skilled seamstress, as well as on the part of a student engaged in learning beginning and advanced tailoring.

What I claim is:

1. A device for constructing bound buttonhole layouts comprising: a rectangular plate adapted to be positioned on a piece of garment material; a guide edge on lthe plate for positioning the device with respect to the raw edge of the material; a series of elongated openings formed in the plate to serve as guides for applying pencil markings, each opening being of rectangular contour but of different length and located more remotely from said guide edge than the opening thereabove; and visible markings on the plate adjacent each opening indicative of the particular button size or sizes for which that opening is to be employed in the layout operation, said guide edge when disposed in precise alignment with the raw edge of a piece of garment material automatically resulting in the proper disposition of the plate on said garment for the purpose described.

2. A device as set forth in claim l, wherein the length of each opening is determined so as to provide for the proper layout lines consonant with accepted tailoring practise relatively to a bound button hole for a particular diametered button.

3. A device as set forth in claim 1, wherein the length of each of said series of elongated openings corresponds with the distance obtaining between said guide edge of the plate and the closest adjacent edge of the edges that define each particular opening.

4. Means for use in first applying to a piece of garment material markings serving to guide the basting of a strip of interfacing to the material, and for thereafter facilitating the delineation of layouts on said strip for guidance in the construction of bound buttonholes spaced and dimensioned in accordance with accepted practise in the tailoring art, said means comprising: a rigid rectangular plate; a guide edge thereon for positioning the plate onrthe garment material with said edge in alignment with the raw edge of said material; a first elongated rectangular opening in the plate, said opening having determined dimensions and being spaced a determined distance from the guide edge aforesaid whereby to serve as a guide in delineating layouts for production in the garment material of bound buttonholes for line #24 and #28 buttons; a second elongated rectangular opening in the plate, said second opening having determined dimensions and being spaced a determined distance from the guide edge aforesaid whereby to serve as a guide in delineating layouts for the production in the garment material of bound buttonholes for line #30 and #34 buttons; a third elongated rectangular opening in the plate, said third opening having determined dimensions and being spaced a determined distance from the guide edge aforesaid whereby to serve as a guide in delineating layouts for the production in the garment material of bound buttonholes for line #36 and #40 buttons; a fourth elongated rectangular opening in the plate, said fourth opening having determined dimensions and being spaced a determined distance from the guide edge aforesaid whereby to serve -as a guide in delineating layouts for the production in the garment material of bound buttonholes for line #45 buttons; Ia fth elongated rectangular opening in the plate, said yfifth opening having determined dimensions and being spaced a determined vdistance from the guide edge aforesaid whereby to serve as ya guide in delineating layouts for the production in the garment material of rbound buttonholes for line #60 buttons; and markings References Cited in the le of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,860,174 Cronk May 24, 1932 2,601,621 Max'ant June 24, 1952 Berardinelli Apr. 17, 1956