US365938A - Delia phillips - Google Patents

Delia phillips Download PDF

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US365938A
US365938A US365938DA US365938A US 365938 A US365938 A US 365938A US 365938D A US365938D A US 365938DA US 365938 A US365938 A US 365938A
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Prior art keywords
gage
blade
hole
button
stencil
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H25/00Appliances or methods for marking-out, perforating or making buttonholes

Definitions

  • Figure l is a plan View of my gage set to mark a large-sized buttonhole one-half inch from the edge of the cloth to be marked.
  • Fig. 2 is a View of a portion of the gage as it appears when set to mark abutton-hole of smaller size.
  • Fig. 3 shows the gage set to mark the points at which to set the buttons.
  • Fig. 4 is a section on lineXXof Fig. 3.
  • Fig. 5 is an isometrical View of the sheath and'clamp which holds the several blades of the gage together.
  • Fig. G shows the underside of the needle which forms the pointer.
  • Fig. 7 shows on an enlarged scale a section of the sheath and clamp and the several blades.
  • A is the main blade of the gage.
  • B is the sheath and clamp which secures the several blades together.
  • G is the opening in the sheath through which the main blade passes.
  • the sheath is provided atits ends uponits upper side with the clampjaws D D, set at right angles with the passage G.
  • E is the stencil-bladehaving its edges turned over to form the clamps.
  • F F which secure the gage plate G in position.
  • H is a hole in the stencil-plate to mark the points at which to set the buttons.
  • I J is the stenciling on the blade E.
  • I is a row of small circular perforations to mark the line which is to be cut through to form the button-hole.
  • K is a hole in the gage-blade to allow access to the hole H.
  • L is the needle'pointer
  • M is the flat face on the under side thereof.
  • N is an eye in the poi nt of the needle,through which a tape may be run when it is desired to use the needle to insert the draw-strings in a hem.
  • O O are staples secured to the main blade to retain the needle-pointer in position.
  • Q is an-oblong hole in the gage-plate, which gives access to the button-ho1e stenciling J in the stencil-blade.
  • One end of the main blade is rounded, as at R, and ahole, S, is made in the same end to assist in marking fancy figures.
  • the other end of the main blade is provided with scallops TT the centers of which are in a line at right angles to the axis of the main blade.
  • the main blade A is graduated with reference to the center of the needle L and thehole H, and theliue of perforationslis inthelongitudinalmid-line ofthestencil'blade, which is of such width that when the gage plate and stencil-blade are shoved close against the Staples 0 O the hole II and the line of perforations I will be half an inch from the center line of the needle, so that buttonholes may be marked at every halfinelnif desired.
  • the gage-plate is graduated with reference to the perforation l at that end of the line which is nearest the main blade A, as that perforation marks the outer end of the button-hole, and the gageplate is so marked that when the ends of the gageplate are even with the ends of the stencil-blade one of the graduations will coincide with the hole I", so that by sliding the gage-plate and stencilblade along together keeping their ends even with each other, the space between the perforation land the edge of the main blade A can be ac curately determined by the graduations upon the gageplate.
  • the manner of using my gage to mark the position of button-holes is as follows:
  • the gage-plate and stencil-blade, having their ends even with each other, as shown in Fig. 1, are slid along in the way formed for them between the jaws D D until the space between the perforation I and the edge of the blade A is equal to thedistanee the button-hole is to be from the edge of the cloth.
  • the gage-plate is then slipped along between the jaws F F of the stencil-blade, as shown in Fig. 2, so as to cover over a 'portion of the perforations, leaving only so much thereof visible through the hole Q as corresponds with the desired length of the button-hole.
  • the needle is then setso that the distance between its point and the edge of the main bladeis equal to the distance between the edges of the blade and the perforation I.
  • the sheath B carrying theplate G and blade over the perforations I and slits J, marking upon the cloth beneath the line to be out along to form the button-hole, and also the position of the stitches around the button-hole.
  • the gage is then moved along until the needlepoint touches the marks made on the cloth through the perforations II, and the stencilbrush is again passed over the stencil-plate, marking the cloth beneath. This is repeated until all the button-holes are marked.
  • the needle is then withdrawn and passed through the staples from the other side.
  • the gage-plate is slipped along until the hole II is exposed to view through the hole K.
  • the stencilplate is slid along until the hole H is at a distance from the edge of the plate A equal to the distance the buttons are to be set from the edge of the cloth.
  • Theproper position for one button is then-marked and the gage is placed upon the cloth, the edge of the main blade being placed at the edge-of the cloth and the needle at the point marked for the first button.
  • the stencil-brush is then passed over the hole H, thus marking the position of the second button.
  • the gage is then moved and the position of the next button is marked, and the operation is continued until the position of each of the buttons is marked.
  • the gage may be used as a square, and the rounded end of the main blade may be used to mark scallops, the sheath B and stencil and gage plates E G serving to gage the depth of the scallops.
  • the hole S may be used to mark a hole in the scallop-point for ornament.
  • the scallop in the other end of the blade may be used to guide the pencil in marking scallops upon the cloth.
  • the needle may be withdrawn from the staples and used to draw basting- I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Description

(No Model.)
' D. PHILLIPS.
. GAGE FOR MARKING BUTTOlfI HOLES.
No. 365,938. Patented July 6, 1887.
[fiver-Liar.
To all whom it may concern:
" NITED STATES f PATENT Erica DELIA PHILLIPS, OF LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA.
GAG-E FOR MARKING BUTTON-HOLES.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 365,938, dated July 5, 1887. Application filed April 9, 1887. Serial No. 23!,280. (No model.)
Be it known that I, DELTA PHILLIPS, a
citizen of the United States, residing at Los Angeles, in the county of Los Angeles and State of California, have invented a new and useful Dress-Makers Gage, of which the following is a specification. My invention is more especially adapted to marking button-holes and the points at which to set the buttons upon garments; but it is also adapted for use in marking various figures and forms used by dress-makers.
The accompanying drawings illustrate my invention.
Figure l is a plan View of my gage set to mark a large-sized buttonhole one-half inch from the edge of the cloth to be marked. Fig. 2 is a View of a portion of the gage as it appears when set to mark abutton-hole of smaller size. Fig. 3 shows the gage set to mark the points at which to set the buttons. Fig. 4 isa section on lineXXof Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is an isometrical View of the sheath and'clamp which holds the several blades of the gage together. Fig. Gshows the underside of the needle which forms the pointer. Fig. 7 shows on an enlarged scale a section of the sheath and clamp and the several blades.
A is the main blade of the gage.
B is the sheath and clamp which secures the several blades together.
G is the opening in the sheath through which the main blade passes. The sheath is provided atits ends uponits upper side with the clampjaws D D, set at right angles with the passage G.
E is the stencil-bladehaving its edges turned over to form the clamps. F F, which secure the gage plate G in position.
H is a hole in the stencil-plate to mark the points at which to set the buttons.
I J is the stenciling on the blade E.
I is a row of small circular perforations to mark the line which is to be cut through to form the button-hole.
Jis a double row of slitswhich mark the position of the stitches around the button-hole.-
K is a hole in the gage-blade to allow access to the hole H.
L is the needle'pointer.
M is the flat face on the under side thereof.
N is an eye in the poi nt of the needle,through which a tape may be run when it is desired to use the needle to insert the draw-strings in a hem.
O O are staples secured to the main blade to retain the needle-pointer in position.
1? is a stiletto which forms the handle ofthe pointer.
Qis an-oblong hole in the gage-plate, which gives access to the button-ho1e stenciling J in the stencil-blade. One end of the main blade is rounded, as at R, and ahole, S, is made in the same end to assist in marking fancy figures. The other end of the main blade is provided with scallops TT the centers of which are in a line at right angles to the axis of the main blade. The main blade A is graduated with reference to the center of the needle L and thehole H, and theliue of perforationslis inthelongitudinalmid-line ofthestencil'blade, which is of such width that when the gage plate and stencil-blade are shoved close against the Staples 0 O the hole II and the line of perforations I will be half an inch from the center line of the needle, so that buttonholes may be marked at every halfinelnif desired. The gage-plate is graduated with reference to the perforation l at that end of the line which is nearest the main blade A, as that perforation marks the outer end of the button-hole, and the gageplate is so marked that when the ends of the gageplate are even with the ends of the stencil-blade one of the graduations will coincide with the hole I", so that by sliding the gage-plate and stencilblade along together keeping their ends even with each other, the space between the perforation land the edge of the main blade A can be ac curately determined by the graduations upon the gageplate.
The manner of using my gage to mark the position of button-holes is as follows: The gage-plate and stencil-blade, having their ends even with each other, as shown in Fig. 1, are slid along in the way formed for them between the jaws D D until the space between the perforation I and the edge of the blade A is equal to thedistanee the button-hole is to be from the edge of the cloth. The gage-plate is then slipped along between the jaws F F of the stencil-blade, as shown in Fig. 2, so as to cover over a 'portion of the perforations, leaving only so much thereof visible through the hole Q as corresponds with the desired length of the button-hole. The needle is then setso that the distance between its point and the edge of the main bladeis equal to the distance between the edges of the blade and the perforation I.
' The sheath B, carrying theplate G and blade over the perforations I and slits J, marking upon the cloth beneath the line to be out along to form the button-hole, and also the position of the stitches around the button-hole. The gage is then moved along until the needlepoint touches the marks made on the cloth through the perforations II, and the stencilbrush is again passed over the stencil-plate, marking the cloth beneath. This is repeated until all the button-holes are marked. The needle is then withdrawn and passed through the staples from the other side. The gage-plate is slipped along until the hole II is exposed to view through the hole K. Then the stencilplate is slid along until the hole H is at a distance from the edge of the plate A equal to the distance the buttons are to be set from the edge of the cloth. Theproper position for one button is then-marked and the gage is placed upon the cloth, the edge of the main blade being placed at the edge-of the cloth and the needle at the point marked for the first button. The stencil-brush is then passed over the hole H, thus marking the position of the second button. The gage is then moved and the position of the next button is marked, and the operation is continued until the position of each of the buttons is marked.
The gage may be used as a square, and the rounded end of the main blade may be used to mark scallops, the sheath B and stencil and gage plates E G serving to gage the depth of the scallops. The hole S may be used to mark a hole in the scallop-point for ornament. The scallop in the other end of the blade may be used to guide the pencil in marking scallops upon the cloth. The needle may be withdrawn from the staples and used to draw basting- I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-
1. The combination of the blade A, the staples O O, the pointer-needle N, the sheath and clamp B D, the stencil-blade E, provided with the perforations I, slits J, hole H, and jaws F, and the gage-plate G, having opeuingstherein to expose the perforations, slits, and holes in the stencil-blade.
' 2. The combination of the main blade provided with the pointer-needleattached thereto, the sheath and clamp 13 D D, the stencil-blade E, and gage-plate G.
DELIA PHILLIPS.
i tn esses:
J AS. R. Townsnnn, F. G. FINLAYSON.
US365938D Delia phillips Expired - Lifetime US365938A (en)

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2637909A (en) * 1950-11-02 1953-05-12 Millard F Thacker Insignia placing device for combat jackets
US2686973A (en) * 1951-03-12 1954-08-24 Martin E Christianson Angle gauge
US2711031A (en) * 1952-05-06 1955-06-21 Jr Harry C Kessler Lithographic step and repeat system
US3805397A (en) * 1970-02-18 1974-04-23 G Wilamowski Geometrical measurement devices

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2637909A (en) * 1950-11-02 1953-05-12 Millard F Thacker Insignia placing device for combat jackets
US2686973A (en) * 1951-03-12 1954-08-24 Martin E Christianson Angle gauge
US2711031A (en) * 1952-05-06 1955-06-21 Jr Harry C Kessler Lithographic step and repeat system
US3805397A (en) * 1970-02-18 1974-04-23 G Wilamowski Geometrical measurement devices

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