US2775217A - Shoe sewing machines - Google Patents

Shoe sewing machines Download PDF

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US2775217A
US2775217A US453586A US45358654A US2775217A US 2775217 A US2775217 A US 2775217A US 453586 A US453586 A US 453586A US 45358654 A US45358654 A US 45358654A US 2775217 A US2775217 A US 2775217A
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welt
shoe
guide
main
supplemental
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US453586A
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Ruhr Heinrich Richard
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United Shoe Machinery Corp
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United Shoe Machinery Corp
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B15/00Machines for sewing leather goods
    • D05B15/02Shoe sewing machines
    • D05B15/06Welt sewing machines
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05DINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/08Cutting the workpiece
    • D05D2305/12Cutting the workpiece transversally

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  • SHOE SEWING MACHINES Filed Sept. 1, 1954 3 Sheets-Sheet l W /25 r fi/ 4514/54 76 54 0 mm M u laagh w fnventor: h'e/nr/ch JE /Chard ifu/w" Dec. 25, 1956 H. R. RUHR SHOE SEWING MACHINES Filed Sept. 1, 1954 3 Sheets-Shea t 2 Inventor: He/hr/ch H/chard Tia/w" Dec. 25, 1956 H. R. RUHR 2,775,217
  • SHOE ⁇ SEWING MACHINES Filed Sept. 1, 1954- 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 United States Patent 2,775,217 SHOE SEWING MACHINES Heinrich Richard Ruhr, Frankfurt am Main, Germany,
  • the present invention relates to machines for sewing welts to stitchdown shoes and more particularly to im- N. J., a corporation provements in devices for enabling a stitchdown welt to be severed quickly and accurately while sewing the sole margin of a stitchdown shoe in a manner to cause the final end of welt to butt and match the end of welt first attached to the shoe.
  • the present invention is similar to that disclosed in an application for United States Letters Patent, Serial No. 418,190, filed March 23, 1954, now Patent No. 2,734,469, granted February 14, 1956, in the name of the present inventor in which devices are provided in an inseam sewing machine for enabling the final end of a Goodyear welt to be butted and matched with that end first attached to the shoe.
  • devices are provided in an inseam sewing machine for enabling the final end of a Goodyear welt to be butted and matched with that end first attached to the shoe.
  • the invention is applicable with advantage to machines for attaching stitchdown welts to shoes otherwise than by sewing and is useful in performing auxiliary operations on the welt other than severing, butting or matching.
  • a Goodyear welt shoe inseam sewing machine is provided with a supplemental welt guide in addition to the main welt guide, so arranged as to be movable along the Welt running to the main welt guide and a knife mounted in the supplemental welt acts to sever the welt at a position corresponding to the end of the welt first sewed to the shoe.
  • the position in which thesupplementalwelt guide in the prior application is moved is determined visually by the operator to bring the knife into predetermined relationship with the first end of the welt.
  • an outsole stitching machine provided with a knife acting automatically just before the end of the seam on a stitchdown shoe is reached to sever the welt from the supply at a point sufficiently in advance of the end of the welt first attached to the shoe, so that the final stitches of the machine is intended primarily for fastening the outsole and welt of a Goodyear welt shoe but also his employed 2,775,217 Patented Dec. 25, 1956 seam will conceal the ends of the Welt and provide a smooth inconspicuous joint.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide a relatively simple and effective welt severing and butting device for use in a stitchdown Welt sewing machine which is capable of performing the same operations as those performed in the machine of the Ashworth patent without necessitating full automatic operation of the knife.
  • the present invention accordingly, is illustrated in connection with a shoe machine having the usual fastening devices, a main welt guide mounted in the frame of the machine close to the operating devices 'for engagement with a shoe being operated upon, a supplemental welt guide throughwhich the welt passes to the main welt guide and means carried by the supplemental Welt guide for performing an auxiliary severing operation on the welt, in which machine means is provided movable with the supplemental welt guide for locating the position of the welt running to the main welt guide at which it is desired to perform the auxiliary operation.
  • the auxiliary operation comprises butting the ends of the welt
  • the supplementary welt guide and a severing knife are mounted on a carrier movable toward and from the main welt guide and the locating means comprises a feeler also mounted on the carrier.
  • the feeler comprises one member of a caliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of the shoe and in the preferred form the caliper is actuated by conveniently arranged manual means.
  • t Fig. 1 is a detail view in elevation, looking from the right and toward the front of a lockstitch outsole shoe sewing machine and parts of a shoe operated upon being shown in section, which machine has been equipped with welt guides, a feeler and severing devices embodying the features of the present invention;
  • Fig. 2 is a sectional view taken along the line II-II of Fig. 1;
  • Fig. 3 is a detail view of certain parts in the machine shown in Fig. 1 illustrating the manner in which the feeler operates on a shoe sole;
  • Fig. 4 is a detail view looking at an angle from the left front of a machine equipped with the feeler and welt severing devices shown in Fig. 1;
  • Fig. 5 is a plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 1;
  • Fig. 6 is a detail view in right side elevation of the machine with parts broken away and portions of a shoe shown in section.
  • the illustrated machine is generally similar to the lock stitch outsole shoe sewing machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 473,870, granted April 26, 18 92, in the name of French and Meyer, and No. 1,169,909 granted February 1, 1916, in the name Ashworth.
  • the illustrated machine is generally similar to the lock stitch outsole shoe sewing machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 473,870, granted April 26, 18 92, in the name of French and Meyer, and No. 1,169,909 granted February 1, 1916, in the name Ashworth.
  • na ro fini h we tot eproiect n ma ginal portions of the upper in the manufacture of a stitchdown shoe The portions of a stitchdown shoe, illustratingtheir. manner. of presentation tothe rnachine'areindicatedin .Figs. 1 and 6.
  • Theshoe includes an ,outsolel, the outflanged margin ofa shoeupper. 4, and a beaded stitchdown welt 6.
  • Th eifasteningor stitch forming-deviccs of the machine comprisea curvedhookneedlej, a .c urved awl .10 and ashuttle orlooptaker 12, shown in Fig: 6.
  • the seam fastening the. shoe parts together ordinarily isstartedalong the insideof a shoe shank, a leading end l8 of the. welt being first sewn to theshoe andthe operation continued about the marginal portions ,ofthe hQe ntil the first end 18 .of the -.welt already attached by stitches approaches the sewing pointin the machine.
  • Themachine is then'brought torest,as illustrated ins-Fig. 1, and the welt in advanceof the main weltguide is severed at; a position at-which the length rernainingunattached. to the 'shoe is equal to. the distance. betweenthe sewing point and the first end- 18already attached.
  • an accurate jointin the weltrunningto the main welt guide tening swan to a stitchdown shoe may be formed without asf eg ra t q lar Skill or;- r r e p i n e in sewing s'titclid'ownshoes and without removing the shoe from .1.
  • the leaf springs are secured to a cover 33 by clamp;screws.34 passing through the springs and into the cover, the cover being secured to the guide block by screws 35 I
  • the eover 33 has a flange extending across the path of the Welt 6 in advance of the guide and a pin 36 secured in upstanding. ears in the block 30 limits the upward movement of the belt beyondthe slot in the block 30.
  • the welt severing knife is mounted for sliding movement toward and from the welt in the supplemental welt guide block 30 and is formed with beveled sides to provide a dovetail groove 40 (see Fig. 2) in the left hand inclined face of the block 30.
  • a dovetail groove 40 see Fig. 2
  • the Bowden wire 48 passes entirely through the clamp 44 and is attached at its uppermost end to the supplemental guide block 30.
  • a compression spring 50 for retain- 7 a clamping bolt 54.
  • the carrier bar 52 is formed with ing the knife 38 in its lowermost inactive position. When the knife is actuated upwardly it severs the welt 6 with a'bevel cut against an edge 39 of the guide slot in the 15in ithevivnfistyratgdl maghine for Sewing! Otherwise I block30, which acts as a cutting plate for the knife.
  • the guide block 30 For shifting the supplemental welt guide block 30 horizontally it is secured to a carrier in the form of a bar 52 movable on the mounting provided by the spindle 24, the guide block 30 having a bore fitting the upper end of the carrier bar 52 and being secured thereto by suitable bends and is pivotally mounted on a carrier supporting arm 56 rotatably mounted on the spindle 2.4
  • the welt 6 providing sufficient rigidity for guiding the shifting movementof the guide block 30 of the supplemental guide as it moves toward and from the main welt guide.
  • the pivotal mounting for the carrier rod 52 is formed by a short vertical stud 60 which passes through a split portion of the rod at its lower end and to which the rod is clamped by a screw 62 extending through its split portion.
  • the ends of the stud 60 are indented and engage a pair of balls 64 entering similar indentations within a recess of. the carrier supportingarm 56.and in l the lower end of a screw 66, respectively, the. screw being threaded in a flange portion of the carrier supporting arm.
  • a check nut 68 engages the screw 66 and acts to secure it in proper relationship to the upper ball 64.
  • the caliper comprising the feeler shaft 82 and the sole engaging rod 84 is inoperative and causes no interference with the movements of the shoe during sewing operations, the welt 6 in the supplemental welt guide holding it in a position out of the path of movement of the shoe as the sewing While sewing about the forepart and heel portions of a shoe the projection formed by the outflanged upper solemember and welt already attached thereto are clear of the space between the active ends of the shaft 82 and the rod 84. This is because the convex curvatures of the marginal edges on the shoe parts bring them out of the range of the feeler caliper.
  • Proper stopping position of the machine may be ascertained roughly by the approach of the stitches first inserted which are readily visible to the operator of the machine. Engagement of the feeler surface 88 with the welt end 18 then provides means for accurate location of the supplemental welt guide within which is slidably mounted the knife 38. After being properly located the knife 38 is actuated to form a bevel cut end, butting and matching exactly the first end 18. After restarting the machine stitches are then continued across the butted ends of the welt on the shoe completed in the usual manner.
  • a single manually operated member is provided for actuating the caliper to open and close against the projecting marginal portions of a shoe.
  • the operator of the machine to support a shoe with one hand and to locate the end 18 of welt, already attached to a shoe, shifting the knife carrier to the proper location to butt and match the bevel at the end 18 of welt while grasping the single manually operated member with the other hand.
  • the operation of severing the welt is executed without shifting the operators grasp on the shoe or readjusting his grip on the operated member.
  • the single manually operated member for actuating the feeler, caliper members and knife is pivotally mounted for movement upon the carrier supporting arm 56 for relative movement both horizontally along the welt and vertically toward and from the marginal portions of the shoe.
  • the manually operated member is rotated in a counterclockwise direction about an axis passing through itself so as to be accomplished readily by rotation of the operators wrist.
  • the pivotal mounting for the manually operated member on the carrier supporting arm 56 is similar to that provided for the carrier rod 52 on the supporting arm 56 and consists of a pair of balls 92 mounted in an indentation of a flange on the carrier supporting arm and in the lower end of a screw 94, respectively, the screw 94 passing through a flange on the supporting arm 56 directly above the one which receives the lower ball 92.
  • the balls 92 also enter indentations in a block 96 on which is supported a handle arm 98 projecting forwardly and toward the right of the machine.
  • the forward end of the arm 98 has a horizontal bearing through which passes loosely a handle shaft 100.
  • the manually operated member in the form of a grip shaped handle knob 102 (see Fig. 1), the shaft being perforated to receive a pin 104 passing through it and the knob 102.
  • the manually operated knob 102 is moved horizontally in the direction corresponding to that in which the supplemental welt guide and caliper are to be shifted.
  • the block 96 forms a pivotal connection between the arm 98 and the carrier supporting arm 56 and is yieldingly connected to the supporting arm through a torsion spring 106 surrounding the upper ball 92, with one end engaged with the block 96 and the other with the supporting arm 56.
  • the spring 106 is so stressed that as the knob102 is moved toward the right it will yield as soon as the surface 88 engages the end 18 of welt first attached to a shoe.
  • the carrier supporting armi the block 96 engages an abutjment 1081(see, Fig.5 onthe (arm.
  • the handle knob 102 is rotated jwith 'the shaft 104 ,the axisof'which passes through the knob its'elfl helical groove 110 'intol which fits a roll 112 rotatably
  • the shaft 100 is'formed' with a right hand mounted on'a reduced end of'a' shoulder screw 114, the enlarged portion of which 'isthreaded into a boss on thehandle arm 98.
  • arm98j is an enlarged opening within which is located a compressionspring'116 surrounding the shaft 100.
  • The'spring' 116 is compressed between the inner end of the enlargement in'the opening and a block 118 loosely surrounding the shaft lllllythe block 118 having a; section of reduced width projecting downwardly through ayslotj99 along 'the'lower surface of the handle arm 98.
  • aBowden'wire Connected withfthe portion of reduced width on the block 118 is the Tforward end of aBowden'wire"122 passing-through a jsheath11 24 secured by'a clamp,screw"126 in a lug on the handle arm 9.8.
  • the other end'of the sheath 124 has connected to' it a sleeve 127 through which also the Bowden'wire 122 pass'es'iand continues through enlarged heads one pair "of pins 128 rotatably mounted in the caliper blocksj78 and 80.
  • the caliper-blocks are norrn ally separated bya spring130 compressed between the heads on the pins 1 28 and the caliper members are closed on fth e shoe'parts yieldingly against the action on a spring 3132 surrounding the Bowden wire 12'2 between the lowerrnost p'in"1 28' and the sleeve 127 'tolimit'the pressure of fthefcaliper members on the'shoe parts.
  • the arrange- *ment is such that'when'the knob'102 is rotated the caliper members open 'or close on'the marginal portions of a shoe so that asthe carrierbar '52 is shifted toward-the right the surface'88 on the shaft '82'will be brought against the end 18 of the welt.
  • the handle arm 98 is mounted for vertical pivotal movement on the block 96.
  • the block 96 has threaded into it a shoulder screw 134 passing loosely through the rearward .portion of the handle arm.
  • the handle arm is held raised normally during'sewing operations by a spring 136 stretched between a pin 137 on the handle arm and a screw 138 threaded into a lug on the supporting arm 56.
  • the spring 136 holds the handle arm in raised position determined by the engagement of a pin 140 (see Fig. 4)
  • connections between the handle arm and the welt severing knife 38 include the Bowden wire 48 secured in a 'passage intersecting the threaded portion of the lug on the supporting arm 56 into which the screw138 passes,
  • the screw 138 acting to clamp the Bowden wire 48 in place.
  • the Bowden wire 48 also passes through a square head on a'pin 142 to which is fixed the sheath 46 for the wire 48.
  • the pin 142 is rotatably mounted in the handle arm 98 and the sheath 46 extends into the clamp 44 on the welt severing knife as hereinbefore described.
  • the machine equipped with the supplemental welt guide, caliper and severing knife may conveniently be operated with relatively little experience if the machine is'brought to rest while operating the handle knob-102.
  • the operation of the knob also may be'eifected, without deviating from the scope of the invention, immediately prior to the completionof a sewing operation without stopping the sewing operations, it being possible for an experienced operator to control the feeler and severing devices while the machine is running.
  • the actuation of the knife may be performed in a manner similar to that disclosed in the Ashworth patent automaticallywhenever the feeler surface 88 is engaged by the end of a welt attached to a shoe. Under these conditions the movements of the handle knob102 will shift the carrier for the caliper to the right to bring the feeler surface against the welt end of a shoe and as the shoe is fed the feeler member will be moved toward the left with a shoe while the knife is being actuated.
  • a shoe machine having a main frame, fastening devices in .the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame close to the point of operation ofthe fastening devices for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the fastening devices, a supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide more remote from the operating point than the main welt guide, knife means carried by the supplemental welt guide for performing a severing operation on the welt before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental Welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with feeler means mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier and engageable with the first end of welt already attached to a shoe for locating the position along the welt running to the main welt guide at which the severing operation is performed.
  • a shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame close to the point of operation of the stitchforming devices for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide more remote from the operating point than the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier and movable with the carrier along a shoe being operated upon to bring the knife into predetermined relationship with the end of the welt already atttached to the shoe.
  • a shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch vforming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with-a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main Welt guide, aknife carried .bythe supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passingtherethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide i's secured mounted on the mainframe for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliper acting on oposite surfaces along the sole marign of a shoe and comprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrierto locate the position ame e'ndof the welt alreadyattached to the shoe, at which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt.
  • a shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole marign of a shoe and comprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier to locate the position of the end of the welt already attached to the shoe at which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, and means for opening and closing the caliper to bring it into operative relationship to the margin of a shoe.
  • a shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of a shoe and comprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier to locate the position of the end of the welt already attached to the shoe at which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, and a single manually operated member for opening and closing the caliper on the sole margin of the shoe and for shifting the carrier to move the supplemental welt guide and knife along the welt running to the main welt guide
  • a shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of a shoe and comprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier to locate the position of the end of the Welt already attached to the shoe at which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, a single manually operated member for opening and closing the caliper on the sole margin of the shoe and for shifting the carrier to move the supplemental welt guide and knife along the welt running to the main welt guide, and
  • a shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from.
  • the main welt guide in combination with a caliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of a shoe and comprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier to locate the position of the end of the welt already attached to the shoe at which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, a shaft on the carrier, and a manually operated knob mounted on the shaft with the axis of the shaft passing through the knob for opening and closing the caliper on the sole margin of the shoe through rotation of the knob about the shaft axis.
  • a shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontal shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of a shoe and comprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier to locate the position of the end of the welt already attached to the shoe at which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, a shaft on the carrier, a manually operated knob mounted on the shaft with the axis of the shaft passing through the knob for opening and closing the caliper on the sole margin of the shoe through rotation of the knob about
  • a shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main Welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental Welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier and movable with the carrier along a shoe being operated upon to engage the end of the welt already attached to the shoe and to bring the knife into predetermined relationship with said welt end, a handle knob mounted on the carrier and movable therewith to shift the carrier in the direction of movement of the knob, and a yielding connection between the knob and the carrier to prevent the feeler from overrunning the end of the welt on the shoe.
  • a shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt pass ing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in

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Description

Dec. 25, 1956 H. R. RUHR 2,775,217
SHOE SEWING MACHINES Filed Sept. 1, 1954 3 Sheets-Sheet l W /25 r fi/ 4514/54 76 54 0 mm M u laagh w fnventor: h'e/nr/ch JE /Chard ifu/w" Dec. 25, 1956 H. R. RUHR SHOE SEWING MACHINES Filed Sept. 1, 1954 3 Sheets-Shea t 2 Inventor: He/hr/ch H/chard Tia/w" Dec. 25, 1956 H. R. RUHR 2,775,217
SHOE} SEWING MACHINES Filed Sept. 1, 1954- 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 United States Patent 2,775,217 SHOE SEWING MACHINES Heinrich Richard Ruhr, Frankfurt am Main, Germany,
Claims. (Cl. 112-46) The present invention relates to machines for sewing welts to stitchdown shoes and more particularly to im- N. J., a corporation provements in devices for enabling a stitchdown welt to be severed quickly and accurately while sewing the sole margin of a stitchdown shoe in a manner to cause the final end of welt to butt and match the end of welt first attached to the shoe. In some respects the present invention is similar to that disclosed in an application for United States Letters Patent, Serial No. 418,190, filed March 23, 1954, now Patent No. 2,734,469, granted February 14, 1956, in the name of the present inventor in which devices are provided in an inseam sewing machine for enabling the final end of a Goodyear welt to be butted and matched with that end first attached to the shoe. In
certain respects the invention is applicable with advantage to machines for attaching stitchdown welts to shoes otherwise than by sewing and is useful in performing auxiliary operations on the welt other than severing, butting or matching. t p
In the use of the devices disclosed in the prior patent a Goodyear welt shoe inseam sewing machine is provided with a supplemental welt guide in addition to the main welt guide, so arranged as to be movable along the Welt running to the main welt guide and a knife mounted in the supplemental welt acts to sever the welt at a position corresponding to the end of the welt first sewed to the shoe. The position in which thesupplementalwelt guide in the prior application is moved is determined visually by the operator to bring the knife into predetermined relationship with the first end of the welt.
- It is not possible to attach welts to stitchdown shoes with an inseam sewing machine ordinarily employed in sewing Goodyear welts. For sewing welts to stitchdown shoes an outsole stitching machine is employed. In an outsole stitching machine a stitchdown welt is led to the sewing point through a main guide formed integrally with the work support at a position where it is hidden from the view of the operator by the projecting margin of the stitchdown shoe sole. For this reason it is not possible to determine the proper position for severing a stitchdown welt visually with an acceptable degree of accuracy by the opera-tor of an outsole stitching machine.
It is an object of the present invention to provide an outsole stitching machine with devices for enablinga stitchdown welt to be sewn uniformly and with facility equal to that enjoyed in bringing the ends of a Goodyear welt into accurately butted relationship on the inseam sewing machine of the prior application without the use of complicated actuating mechanisms.
In the machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,388,245, granted November 6, 1945, "on
application of Fred Ashworth, there is disclosed. an outsole stitching machine provided with a knife acting automatically just before the end of the seam on a stitchdown shoe is reached to sever the welt from the supply at a point sufficiently in advance of the end of the welt first attached to the shoe, so that the final stitches of the machine is intended primarily for fastening the outsole and welt of a Goodyear welt shoe but also his employed 2,775,217 Patented Dec. 25, 1956 seam will conceal the ends of the Welt and provide a smooth inconspicuous joint. While the machine of that patent is highly effective in producing a desirable result, under some circumstances it is preferable to utilize a Welt severing and butting knife in an outside stitching machine for sewing stitchdown shoes, in which the operator of the machine may exercise greater discretion in matching and butting the ends of welt severed by the knife while at the same time inserting one or more stitches extending across the severed welt ends.
Accordingly, another object of the invention is to provide a relatively simple and effective welt severing and butting device for use in a stitchdown Welt sewing machine which is capable of performing the same operations as those performed in the machine of the Ashworth patent without necessitating full automatic operation of the knife.
Other objects are to improve generally the operation of a stitchdown welt sewing machine by providing features of adjustments and improved arrangements for mounting the welt severing knife and its actuating mechanisms. The present invention, accordingly, is illustrated in connection witha shoe machine having the usual fastening devices, a main welt guide mounted in the frame of the machine close to the operating devices 'for engagement with a shoe being operated upon, a supplemental welt guide throughwhich the welt passes to the main welt guide and means carried by the supplemental Welt guide for performing an auxiliary severing operation on the welt, in which machine means is provided movable with the supplemental welt guide for locating the position of the welt running to the main welt guide at which it is desired to perform the auxiliary operation. Where the auxiliary operation comprises butting the ends of the welt the supplementary welt guide and a severing knife are mounted on a carrier movable toward and from the main welt guide and the locating means comprises a feeler also mounted on the carrier. As hereinafter described, the feeler comprises one member of a caliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of the shoe and in the preferred form the caliper is actuated by conveniently arranged manual means. 1
These and other features of the invention, as hereinafter described and claimed will be apparent from the following detailed specification, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:
t Fig. 1 is a detail view in elevation, looking from the right and toward the front of a lockstitch outsole shoe sewing machine and parts of a shoe operated upon being shown in section, which machine has been equipped with welt guides, a feeler and severing devices embodying the features of the present invention;
Fig. 2 is a sectional view taken along the line II-II of Fig. 1;
Fig. 3 is a detail view of certain parts in the machine shown in Fig. 1 illustrating the manner in which the feeler operates on a shoe sole;
. Fig. 4 is a detail view looking at an angle from the left front of a machine equipped with the feeler and welt severing devices shown in Fig. 1;
i Fig. 5 is a plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 1; and
Fig. 6 is a detail view in right side elevation of the machine with parts broken away and portions of a shoe shown in section.
The illustrated machine is generally similar to the lock stitch outsole shoe sewing machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 473,870, granted April 26, 18 92, in the name of French and Meyer, and No. 1,169,909 granted February 1, 1916, in the name Ashworth. The
far fastening na ro fini h we tot eproiect n ma ginal portions of the upper in the manufacture of a stitchdown shoe. The portions of a stitchdown shoe, illustratingtheir. manner. of presentation tothe rnachine'areindicatedin .Figs. 1 and 6. .Theshoe includes an ,outsolel, the outflanged margin ofa shoeupper. 4, and a beaded stitchdown welt 6. Th eifasteningor stitch forming-deviccs of the machine comprisea curvedhookneedlej, a .c urved awl .10 and ashuttle orlooptaker 12, shown in Fig: 6. wWhen operating upon a, stitchdownshoe it is customary to present theshoe. in inverted;position, the shoe being engaged with and guidedby a work support 14 which is provided with a main welt guide .15 in the form .of an opening shaped to fit the welt and direct itjn advance of thesewing point. The main welt guide directs the welt into the crease. between the outflanged and bulging portionsl'of the shoe upper 4 closejto the operat-ingpoint .of lthe fastening devices and thethread,,indicatedaLlG, drawn through allot thejsho epartstoform lockstitches fastening the parts permanently together. v In operating upon a stitchdown shoe in. the ,manner outlined, the seam fastening the. shoe parts together ordinarily isstartedalong the insideof a shoe shank, a leading end l8 of the. welt being first sewn to theshoe andthe operation continued about the marginal portions ,ofthe hQe ntil the first end 18 .of the -.welt already attached by stitches approaches the sewing pointin the machine. Themachine is then'brought torest,as illustrated ins-Fig. 1, and the welt in advanceof the main weltguide is severed at; a position at-which the length rernainingunattached. to the 'shoe is equal to. the distance. betweenthe sewing point and the first end- 18already attached. The
. operator is no longer forced to depend on his judgment machine is thenlrestarted .and'the seam-completed by inserting stitches overlapping the ends of welt which are bI'Qllglit lntQi bllltlIlg and matching engagementL/In this wayea srnooth, inconspicuous .joint is formed between the ends. Duetothe position in which. a stitchdown shoe is presented to an" outsole sewing machine and to the arra gem ent 0f themain welt guide the. welt advancing through the guideandthe first end 18. already attached to the shoe are concealedfromtheview of the operator stan ding in a position normally assumed byhim; Unless means are provided for accurately determining theposition ofjthe first end 1 8 already,attached to' the shoe, it-is necessary for th'e operator to. remove the shoeatleast partially from thesewing point. for this pur'posegbefore severing thewelt leading fromthe'main weltiguide. 1 In the machineofthe AshworthUnited States Patent No. 2,388,245, a weltleading to the main welt guide of'a shoe. outsole sewinggrnachine is. severed; automatically the machine is running at a point determined from enperien ceasthe first stitches ofthe, seam attaching the welt. end :13 approachgthe sewingpoint, no interruption of, the stitching being required. 'Due to slight variations 7 in the position of the leading end ofwelt-first attached tothe shoe with respect to the first sitches whichare visible to the operator, the actual leading end of the welt being concealed, somevariation in appearance and character of the butted joint in thewelt of a completed shoe may result. In accordance, withthe present invention an accurate jointin the weltrunningto the main welt guide tening swan to a stitchdown shoe may be formed without asf eg ra t q lar Skill or;- r r e p i n e in sewing s'titclid'ownshoes and without removing the shoe from .1. w n iati he ma hin To the ends noted above a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide'mo unted' in the machine at a posimore remote fromtheoperating point than the main welt guideand fi ttedwitha welt severing knife and locating-rneans engageable with the first end 18 of the welt already attached to the shoe to bring the supplemental guide to a predetermined relationship with the welt where it rnay be severed'to the best advantage. In this way the easy detachment as a unit from the machine to facilitate servicing and to render the machine more versatile inthe type of work for which it is capable of performing. *For convenience in detachably mounting the supplemental welt guiding, severing and feeler devices the machine of they French and Meyer patent, more particularly as,;;disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 5 63,471, granted July 7, 1896, to-the same inventors, has a dovetailed guide portion corresponding to that indicated at 20 in Fig. l of'the present drawings, mounted on a rigid portionof the machine frame. .In the machineof the invention 'the dovetail guide portion 20 hassurroundingita' block22 provided with a similarly shaped slot and a vertical spindle 24 carrying .at its upper end a mounting for-thesupplemental welt guide and associated devices. When the block is applied to the dovetail .portion 20 awearplateZfi within its slot isclamped against the dovetail guide portion bya set-screw v28 in the block to secure the block firmly in ,operating position in the machine. I I l Ihesupplementalwelt guideis in the form-of. a slotted block 30, the slot of which provides a passageway for the welt 6. As illustrated, the welt is of the storm type with a .bead entering a groove along therlower surface-of the, slot inrthe guide block 30. To maintain a yielding pressureon the welt as it passes through the-supplemental guide slotapairofleaf springs 3:2 act in advanced the siot of the guide toengage the under surfaces of the main body on the welt and the projection of the bead, respectively, The leaf springs are secured to a cover 33 by clamp;screws.34 passing through the springs and into the cover, the cover being secured to the guide block by screws 35 I For limiting the .upward movement of the sprnigs the eover 33 has a flange extending across the path of the Welt 6 in advance of the guide and a pin 36 secured in upstanding. ears in the block 30 limits the upward movement of the belt beyondthe slot in the block 30.
The welt severing knife, indicated at 38, is mounted for sliding movement toward and from the welt in the supplemental welt guide block 30 and is formed with beveled sides to provide a dovetail groove 40 (see Fig. 2) in the left hand inclined face of the block 30. For actuating the welt severing knife 38 its lower end is perforated to receive a screw 42 passing into threaded engag'ement with a clamp 44 having a centralpassage surrounding a sheath 46 of a Bowden wire 48, operated in a manner to be described. The Bowden wire 48 passes entirely through the clamp 44 and is attached at its uppermost end to the supplemental guide block 30. On the Bowden wire between the clamp 44 and the guide block 30 is disposed a compression spring 50 for retain- 7 a clamping bolt 54. The carrier bar 52 is formed with ing the knife 38 in its lowermost inactive position. When the knife is actuated upwardly it severs the welt 6 with a'bevel cut against an edge 39 of the guide slot in the 15in ithevivnfistyratgdl maghine for Sewing! Otherwise I block30, which acts as a cutting plate for the knife.
For shifting the supplemental welt guide block 30 horizontally it is secured to a carrier in the form of a bar 52 movable on the mounting provided by the spindle 24, the guide block 30 having a bore fitting the upper end of the carrier bar 52 and being secured thereto by suitable bends and is pivotally mounted on a carrier supporting arm 56 rotatably mounted on the spindle 2.4
7 (see Fig. 5), the vertical position of the carrier supporting arm on the spindle being determined by a check nut 58 threaded on the central portion of the spindle below the carriersupporting arm. The axis about which the carrier bat-"pivots on the carrier supporting arm 56 is operation progresses.
parallel to the axis of the spindle 24 so that when thesupporting arm rotates on the spindle the carrier rod 52. shifts in the direction of the welt running to the main welt guide in the work support 14, the welt 6 providing sufficient rigidity for guiding the shifting movementof the guide block 30 of the supplemental guide as it moves toward and from the main welt guide.
The pivotal mounting for the carrier rod 52 is formed by a short vertical stud 60 which passes through a split portion of the rod at its lower end and to which the rod is clamped by a screw 62 extending through its split portion. The ends of the stud 60 are indented and engage a pair of balls 64 entering similar indentations within a recess of. the carrier supportingarm 56.and in l the lower end of a screw 66, respectively, the. screw being threaded in a flange portion of the carrier supporting arm. A check nut 68 engages the screw 66 and acts to secure it in proper relationship to the upper ball 64.
.As the carrier supporting arm swings on the spindle 24 the carrier bar moves the supplemental welt guide along the welt 6 toward andfrom the main welt guide and the stud 60 rotates on the balls 64 to enable the. shifting movement of the supplemental guide to follow the welt 6.
which passes a horizontal shoulder bolt 74 clampedin position on the rod by a nut 76 (see Figs. 4 and Rotatably mounted on an enlarged portion of the bolt 74 area pairof blocks 78 and 80 provided with horizontal passages within which are located the welt end feeler in thejform of an L-shaped shaft 82 and sole engaging caliper member in the form of an L-shapedrod 84, the shaft and rod being secured to the blocks 78 and 80 by draw bolts 86 passing through the respective blocks. The arrangement of the welt severing knife 38 within the guideway of the supplemental guide block 30 causes the knife to sever the welt with a bevel cut of approximately 45 fore is formed with a welt end engaging surface 88 disposed at that angle to the horizontal. The left end of The left end of the shaft 82 therethe rod 84 has rotatably mounted upon it a sole engaging roll 90 formed with a barrel-shaped outer surface to permit it to ride smoothly over any irregularity present on the sole 2.
. During normal sewing operations the caliper comprising the feeler shaft 82 and the sole engaging rod 84 is inoperative and causes no interference with the movements of the shoe during sewing operations, the welt 6 in the supplemental welt guide holding it in a position out of the path of movement of the shoe as the sewing While sewing about the forepart and heel portions of a shoe the projection formed by the outflanged upper solemember and welt already attached thereto are clear of the space between the active ends of the shaft 82 and the rod 84. This is because the convex curvatures of the marginal edges on the shoe parts bring them out of the range of the feeler caliper.
It'is onlywhile sewing about the inside shank of the shoe that the marginal portions of the shoe project into the space between the roll 90 and the feeler end ofthe shaft 82 as a result of the concave curvatures along these portions of the shoe edges. To prevent engagement of either caliper member with the shoe when the and sole engaging rod are brought together against the shoe parts, as shown in Fig. 3 and the carrier supporting farm 56 isswung about the spindle 24 to shift the supple- 8 mental welt guide and caliper members toward and from the main welt guide in the work support until the welt end engaging surface 88 on the feeler is brought into definite contact with the first end of welt 18 attached to the shoe. Proper stopping position of the machine may be ascertained roughly by the approach of the stitches first inserted which are readily visible to the operator of the machine. Engagement of the feeler surface 88 with the welt end 18 then provides means for accurate location of the supplemental welt guide within which is slidably mounted the knife 38. After being properly located the knife 38 is actuated to form a bevel cut end, butting and matching exactly the first end 18. After restarting the machine stitches are then continued across the butted ends of the welt on the shoe completed in the usual manner.
For actuating the caliper to open and close against the projecting marginal portions of a shoe, for shifting the carrier to move the supplemental welt guide and knife along the Welt running to the main welt guide and for actuating the knife to sever the welt a single manually operated member is provided. Thus, it is possible for the operator of the machine to support a shoe with one hand and to locate the end 18 of welt, already attached to a shoe, shifting the knife carrier to the proper location to butt and match the bevel at the end 18 of welt while grasping the single manually operated member with the other hand. The operation of severing the welt is executed without shifting the operators grasp on the shoe or readjusting his grip on the operated member.
The single manually operated member for actuating the feeler, caliper members and knife is pivotally mounted for movement upon the carrier supporting arm 56 for relative movement both horizontally along the welt and vertically toward and from the marginal portions of the shoe. For actuating the caliper to engage the projecting marginal portions of the shoe with an opening and closing motion the manually operated member is rotated in a counterclockwise direction about an axis passing through itself so as to be accomplished readily by rotation of the operators wrist.
The pivotal mounting for the manually operated member on the carrier supporting arm 56 is similar to that provided for the carrier rod 52 on the supporting arm 56 and consists of a pair of balls 92 mounted in an indentation of a flange on the carrier supporting arm and in the lower end of a screw 94, respectively, the screw 94 passing through a flange on the supporting arm 56 directly above the one which receives the lower ball 92. The balls 92 also enter indentations in a block 96 on which is supported a handle arm 98 projecting forwardly and toward the right of the machine. The forward end of the arm 98 has a horizontal bearing through which passes loosely a handle shaft 100. At the forward end of the handle shaft is mounted the manually operated member in the form of a grip shaped handle knob 102 (see Fig. 1), the shaft being perforated to receive a pin 104 passing through it and the knob 102.
To shift the supplemental welt guide with the knife and feeler caliper toward and from the main welt guide in the work support 14 the manually operated knob 102 is moved horizontally in the direction corresponding to that in which the supplemental welt guide and caliper are to be shifted. To prevent overrunning of the feeler surface 88 on the shaft 82 past the first end 18 of the welt on a shoe the block 96 forms a pivotal connection between the arm 98 and the carrier supporting arm 56 and is yieldingly connected to the supporting arm through a torsion spring 106 surrounding the upper ball 92, with one end engaged with the block 96 and the other with the supporting arm 56. The spring 106 is so stressed that as the knob102 is moved toward the right it will yield as soon as the surface 88 engages the end 18 of welt first attached to a shoe. To limit the pivotal movement of the handle knob toward the left withvrespect t0 the carrier supporting armi the block 96 engages an abutjment 1081(see, Fig.5 onthe (arm.
rfopenin'g and 'closing'the caliper members on the surfaces along'the marginal projecting sole and other porjtionsYof the shoe parts the handle knob 102 is rotated jwith 'the shaft 104 ,the axisof'which passes through the knob its'elfl helical groove 110 'intol which fits a roll 112 rotatably The shaft 100 is'formed' with a right hand mounted on'a reduced end of'a' shoulder screw 114, the enlarged portion of which 'isthreaded into a boss on thehandle arm 98. Beyond the'ibearing for the shaft 100. in the, arm98j is an enlarged opening within which is located a compressionspring'116 surrounding the shaft 100. The'spring' 116 is compressed between the inner end of the enlargement in'the opening and a block 118 loosely surrounding the shaft lllllythe block 118 having a; section of reduced width projecting downwardly through ayslotj99 along 'the'lower surface of the handle arm 98. To'ret'ain :the';block l18'inposition on the shaft 100 against thef compression offthe spring 116' the inner end fof'theshaft'has "secured to ,it a collar 120. Connected withfthe portion of reduced width on the block 118 is the Tforward end of aBowden'wire"122 passing-through a jsheath11 24 secured by'a clamp,screw"126 in a lug on the handle arm 9.8. The other end'of the sheath 124 has connected to' it a sleeve 127 through which also the Bowden'wire 122 pass'es'iand continues through enlarged heads one pair "of pins 128 rotatably mounted in the caliper blocksj78 and 80. The caliper-blocks are norrn ally separated bya spring130 compressed between the heads on the pins 1 28 and the caliper members are closed on fth e shoe'parts yieldingly against the action on a spring 3132 surrounding the Bowden wire 12'2 between the lowerrnost p'in"1 28' and the sleeve 127 'tolimit'the pressure of fthefcaliper members on the'shoe parts. The arrange- *ment is such that'when'the knob'102 is rotated the caliper members open 'or close on'the marginal portions of a shoe so that asthe carrierbar '52 is shifted toward-the right the surface'88 on the shaft '82'will be brought against the end 18 of the welt.
To connect the manually operated knob 102 for operation of the welt severing knife 38 the handle arm 98 is mounted for vertical pivotal movement on the block 96. For thispurpose the block 96 has threaded into it a shoulder screw 134 passing loosely through the rearward .portion of the handle arm. The handle arm is held raised normally during'sewing operations by a spring 136 stretched between a pin 137 on the handle arm and a screw 138 threaded into a lug on the supporting arm 56. The spring 136 holds the handle arm in raised position determined by the engagement of a pin 140 (see Fig. 4)
on the handle arm with a vertical edge surface on the block 96. v
l The connections between the handle arm and the welt severing knife 38 include the Bowden wire 48 secured in a 'passage intersecting the threaded portion of the lug on the supporting arm 56 into which the screw138 passes,
the screw 138 acting to clamp the Bowden wire 48 in place. The Bowden wire 48 also passes through a square head on a'pin 142 to which is fixed the sheath 46 for the wire 48. The pin 142 is rotatably mounted in the handle arm 98 and the sheath 46 extends into the clamp 44 on the welt severing knife as hereinbefore described.
Downward movement of the handle knob acts through the connections thus described to slide the sheath 46 along thejBowden wire 48 and to raise the knife 38 into enfforwardmovement. The sewing operation being started it is continued entirely about the projecting marginal portions of a shoe until the stitches firstinserted become visible. After stopping the machine the manually operated knob is moved in the proper manner to caliper' th'e leading end 18 of'thewelt first attached to the shoe and to sever the welt in the position thus determined. The parts are properly adjusted to cause the'severed end of the welt attached to the shoe to match exactly with andto butt against the first end 18 of the welt when the sewing operation is resumed so that after the stitches have been carried across the butted ends a neat and well concealed joint will be completed.
' The machine equipped with the supplemental welt guide, caliper and severing knife may conveniently be operated with relatively little experience if the machine is'brought to rest while operating the handle knob-102.
To sever a stitchdown welt the operation of the knob also may be'eifected, without deviating from the scope of the invention, immediately prior to the completionof a sewing operation without stopping the sewing operations, it being possible for an experienced operator to control the feeler and severing devices while the machine is running. Also, the actuation of the knife may be performed in a manner similar to that disclosed in the Ashworth patent automaticallywhenever the feeler surface 88 is engaged by the end of a welt attached to a shoe. Under these conditions the movements of the handle knob102 will shift the carrier for the caliper to the right to bring the feeler surface against the welt end of a shoe and as the shoe is fed the feeler member will be moved toward the left with a shoe while the knife is being actuated.
The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and a particular embodiment having been described, what is claimed is:
1. A shoe machine having a main frame, fastening devices in .the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame close to the point of operation ofthe fastening devices for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the fastening devices, a supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide more remote from the operating point than the main welt guide, knife means carried by the supplemental welt guide for performing a severing operation on the welt before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental Welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with feeler means mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier and engageable with the first end of welt already attached to a shoe for locating the position along the welt running to the main welt guide at which the severing operation is performed.
2. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame close to the point of operation of the stitchforming devices for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide more remote from the operating point than the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier and movable with the carrier along a shoe being operated upon to bring the knife into predetermined relationship with the end of the welt already atttached to the shoe.
3. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch vforming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with-a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main Welt guide, aknife carried .bythe supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passingtherethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide i's secured mounted on the mainframe for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliper acting on oposite surfaces along the sole marign of a shoe and comprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrierto locate the position ame e'ndof the welt alreadyattached to the shoe, at which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt.
4. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole marign of a shoe and comprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier to locate the position of the end of the welt already attached to the shoe at which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, and means for opening and closing the caliper to bring it into operative relationship to the margin of a shoe.
5. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of a shoe and comprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier to locate the position of the end of the welt already attached to the shoe at which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, and a single manually operated member for opening and closing the caliper on the sole margin of the shoe and for shifting the carrier to move the supplemental welt guide and knife along the welt running to the main welt guide.
6. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of a shoe and comprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier to locate the position of the end of the Welt already attached to the shoe at which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, a single manually operated member for opening and closing the caliper on the sole margin of the shoe and for shifting the carrier to move the supplemental welt guide and knife along the welt running to the main welt guide, and connections between the manually operated member and the knife for actuating it to sever the welt.
7. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from. the main welt guide, in combination with a caliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of a shoe and comprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier to locate the position of the end of the welt already attached to the shoe at which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, a shaft on the carrier, and a manually operated knob mounted on the shaft with the axis of the shaft passing through the knob for opening and closing the caliper on the sole margin of the shoe through rotation of the knob about the shaft axis.
8. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontal shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of a shoe and comprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier to locate the position of the end of the welt already attached to the shoe at which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, a shaft on the carrier, a manually operated knob mounted on the shaft with the axis of the shaft passing through the knob for opening and closing the caliper on the sole margin of the shoe through rotation of the knob about the shaft axis, and yielding connections between the shaft and the caliper to limit the pressure of the feeler on the shoe parts.
9. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main Welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental Welt guide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier and movable with the carrier along a shoe being operated upon to engage the end of the welt already attached to the shoe and to bring the knife into predetermined relationship with said welt end, a handle knob mounted on the carrier and movable therewith to shift the carrier in the direction of movement of the knob, and a yielding connection between the knob and the carrier to prevent the feeler from overrunning the end of the welt on the shoe.
10. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severing the welt pass ing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in
. References Cited in the file of this-patent 1 UNITED" STATES PATENTS Pren'zel' JUnefS, 19 15 YAshworth et a1. Sept. 2, 1930 Oliver Mar. 20,: 1934 Ashworth Dec. 3,"1 935 Ashwo'rth Apr. 6,1948
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US1951370A (en) * 1931-12-22 1934-03-20 Reece Shoe Machinery Co Welt sewing machine
US2022754A (en) * 1932-03-01 1935-12-03 United Shoe Machinery Corp Sewing machine
US2438986A (en) * 1945-02-28 1948-04-06 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe machine

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3006295A (en) * 1959-04-14 1961-10-31 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe machines
US3055323A (en) * 1959-09-15 1962-09-25 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe machines with automatic welt severing mechanisms
US3031986A (en) * 1960-03-28 1962-05-01 United Shoe Machinery Corp Feeler controls for operation performing machines

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