US1951370A - Welt sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

March 20, 1934 R. OUVER WELT SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 22. 1931 3 Sheets-Sheet l fbg, 1.

ATTORNEYS WELT SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 22. 1931 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Fr/gig,

ATTORNEYS March 20, 1934. JR OUVER 1,951,370

WELT SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 22. 1.931 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR.'

Jfew R0?? codranzwu BY WM'KuMdJ-l v ATTORNEYS Patented Mar. 20, 1934 NTED STES rar er1-ICE VVEL'El SEWNG MACHINE a corpcration of Application December 22,

(Cl. 11E-46) 1 Claim.

This invention relates to welt sewing machines, for example to the Reece type of welt-and-turn machine as illustrated in the prior patent of Oliver No. 1,770,992 granted July 22, 1939, and

5 in the earlier patents and applications therein referred to. The invention however is applicable to welt sewing machines of other types.

The invention pertains more particularly to the operation or" severing, or of severing and holding,

110 the welt after the completion of a given seam,

such for example as the stitching of the welt to a shoe. After the machine is stopped, preferably by an automatic stop mechanism, it is necessary, in order to release the shoe or work, to sever the welt strip between the last point of attachment to the shoe and the sewing point, at which point the welt is fed to the work through a welt guide which receives the welt from a relatively remote supply point.

Welt severing devices of several distinctive types are known, the usual operation of all of them being that, following the completion of the stitching, the work and the welt are advanced in the direction of feed, leitward in the standard machines, and the welt thereupon severed at a point about midway between the last point of attachment of the welt to the work and the stitching point or plane, the severing device being normally retracted to a rearward position, but at the time of severing moving frontwardly to sever the welt at the designated point, leaving a short free end of welt both at the shoe and at the stitching point.

The actuation of a welt severing device after the pulling through of the welt as described, may be brought about in diierent ways, but in said prior Patent 1,779,992 it is brought about by the manual movement of a trip or release means or lever, which releases actuating devices that oper ate to move irontwardly the severing instrument and cause it to sever the welt at the designated place. A drawback, with any sort of severing action, is the possibility of the action occurring before the work and welt haveV been advanced through a minimum distance, for example one inch, such as to insure that the severing instrument will not contact or injure the shoe or operate on the welt too near the shoe.

The general object of the present invention is to afford a simple, convenient and effective means for severing the welt at a designated point after the completion of the stitching. A particular object is to obvate the drawback before mentioned by preventing the actual severing, at the predetermined severing point, prematurely or before 1931, Serial No. 582,541

the shoe and welt have been advanced, after the completion of stitching, by a certain minimum distance sunicient to insure that the welt will be severed at a point suitably spaced both from the work and from the stitching point. Other advantages will be pointed out in the hereinafter following description of an illustrative embodiment of the invention or will be understood to those conversant with the subject. To the attainment of the recited objects and advantages the present invention consists in the novel Welt handling mechanism, and the novel features of combination, arrangement, operation and structure herein illustrated or described.

Figure l is a right elevation of the head of a welt sewing machine embodying this invention, partly broken away. I Y

Fig. 2 is a left elevation thereof.

Fig. 3 is a iront View thereof looking in the inclined direction of the arrow 3 in Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the welt guide with its shank in section.

Referring in detail to the drawings, the inverted shoe, which is not shown, will be under stood as being held in place to the front of and below the welt guide, and with the welt strip W, the shoe upper, and the sole lip advancing leftward in the path of the curved barbed needle C. The welt strip, before meeting the shoe, is guided by the welt guide 20 to be described along a path 85 extending from the welt supply through the welt guide to the stitching point or plane, whereat the needle, looper and other cooperating stitchingv instruments form the thread into successive stitches connecting the shoe upper, sole lip and welt, usually around the sides and toe of the shoe, terminating at the shank.

The drawings show an upright fore-and-aft frame wall 11 which may be the left hand frame wall of the head of the machine, and spaced t0 95 the right of this is a second fore-and-ait frame wallor bracket l2. The stitching instruments are accommodated principally between the two frame walls, while the control mechanism hereof is mounted partly on each wall, with a connection or link from one side to the other. The main or operating shaft 13 may have its bearings in the two frame walls and this may have crank or other connections to the stitching instruments for operating them in coordination on the principles of said patent and the prior patents therein mentioned, such connections being omitted herefrom as unnecessary to the disclosure of the present invention.

The mountings and connections of some of the is an irregular shaped casting comprising or stitching instruments may be redesigned to accommodate the new welt severing construction hereof. Thus the channel guide B is shown carried yon an arched carrier lever b oscillating on a xed axle 15. For the purpose of mounting certain parts at the inner side of the left frame wall there is shown a fixed irregular bracket or casting 17. The needle C may oscillate about an axle 18 in the usual manner; and this axle may have its right end supported by an additional bracket 19 reaching down and leftward from the right frame wall 12. The work may be held in the usual manner against the welt guide and against the usual work rest, and may be advanced between stitches by the usual feed mecha- -nism as the welt W is laid against the shoe and stitched thereto.

As in said prior patent, this specic method of severing the welt herein shown involves the quick throwing frontward and retraction of a severing tool or blade preferably comprising a shearing cutter cooperating with a shearing edge or surfacerof the welt guide 20. This welt guide is normally located at the right side or welt supply side of the stitching point or plane and accord- -ing to this invention it has the two following characteristics. The welt guide has a shearing surface formed by a slot or otherwise located a substantial distance to the right or welt supply side of the stitching point, for example 1/2 inch removed therefrom. Before the actual severing the welt guide is caused to be shifted or advanced bodily in the direction of the feed, or to the left, the severing taking place while the welt guide is at the extreme left of the movement, and the guide thereupon retracting to normal position. This leftward shift of the welt guide may be to the extent of 1 inch, so that its shearing surface, which normally is l/i inch to the right of the sewing point will now be 1A; inch to the left thereof. When in this position the cooperating cutter blade advances frontwardly to effect the cutting at 1/2 inch to the left of the stitching point. During the shifting movement of the welt guide preparatory to the cutting the work is positively thrust leftward with the result that the severance of the welt is unavoidably 1/2 inch or more removed from the end of the seam. In the usual welt stitching machine the shoe is held bythe operator and herein the shoe is used as a contact to operate a trip for the release of the mechanism causing the cutting operation. Due to the relative dimensions and movements of the parts the work and welt are compelled to advance in the direction of feed before the actual severance so that the work will be protected from the severing cutter and the actual cutting is performed about midway between the work and the stitching plane.

vThe welt guide 20 considered as a whole is a member swingable frontward to the work and rearward from the work, with a groove or guiding surface along which the welt is guided to the work. The body or frame of the welt guide 20 supported upon a pair of swinging arms 22 mounted upon a transverse axle 23 which extends between a part of the casting 17 and the right frame Wall 12.

With this invention, as in Patent 1,770,992 the welt guide has a guiding portion 24 formed separately from the body or frame of the welt guide. The movable portion 24 contains a welt guiding groove, and may be considered as the welt guide 1:1 proper, since the welt is laid directly on the Work from the left side or exit of the groove. Also as in said patent the movable portion 24 of the welt guide, while normally in the operativey position shown, is capable, for the purposes of the welt severing operation, of being shifted leftward or advancingly in the direction of feed, so that a face of the movable portion may, in its advanced or shifted position, cooperate with a blade or severing device to effect the severing of the welt at a designated point substantially beyond or leftward of the needle C and stitching plane indicated in Fig. 3 at With the present invention, however, the shiftable portion 24 of the Welt guide is so constructed that the severing takes place at a point thereon which during severing is about a half inch to the left of the stitching plane but which point is normally removed to a subs'tantial distance, as a half inch, to the right of the stitching plane, the guide shifting through about one inch from position to position. A convenient construction is the formation in the part 24 of a kerf or slot 25, as seen in Figs. 1 and 3, located the designated distance to the right of the stitching plane, and adapted to receive the blade or knife 30 to be described. With this plan, by shifting the welt guide portion 24 one inch to the left, after the stitching, and while in that position effecting the severing of the welt, the welt will necessarily be severed a half inch to the left or beyond the stitching plane, and at least a half inch to the right of the point where the last stitch connects the Welt to the shoe; and the presence of a half inch of metal to the left of the kerf or severing point positively insures the leftward advance of the work or shoey to the requisite extent, the part 24 contacting and thrusting the shoe leftward While held in the operators hand or otherwise.

At the left side of the movable part 24 is shown an attached extension 26 with a finger extending into the welt guiding groove so as to form a gib by which the width of the guiding groove may be adjusted to suit the width of the welt strip The movable welt guide portion 24 may have a curved shank 27 with a circular pivoting head 28, these permitting the swinging welt guide movements already referred to, as in said patent; and the movable part 24 may be provided with an alining pin 29 slidable in the welt guide body 20, to permit the leftward and return movements of the part 24 while keeping it in proper guiding relation to the remainder of the welt guide.

The severing knife 30 consists of a flat blade movable in the kerf 25. This knife may be generally as in said patent. The blade is attached to a curved shank 31 by which the knife, during the severing, is thrust frontward in a curved path and retracted. For this purpose the curved shank 31 is formed with rack teeth 32 at its back edge, and these teeth are in mesh with a gear 33 mounted on a shaft 42 to be described, Athe gear being elongated to permit right and left shifting movements of the knife shank.

Preferably the severing blade, instead of being normally located tothe rear of the severing point, is normally located to the rear of the kerf 25 'and arranged to shift leftward with the shift of the welt guide part 24, so that the actual severing takes place beyond or to the left of the stitching plane. For the purpose of effecting the leftward and return shifting movements of the curved shank 31 of the blade and the similar shank 27 of the part 24, these two parts are accommodated in the arc shaped recess of a guide member or block 35, which is generally .similar to the correpoint a half inch plane and at least that distance to the right of the rear arm 95 and a pin spondingly numbered p art in said patent, June 28, 1933 and Patent 1,716,562 of June ll, 1929 in Fig. 5 shows the character and mode of action of the recessed block 35. The shifting guide or block 35 is shown mounted at the right end of a sliding bar 37 which extends leftward and has its sliding bearing in the casting 17 and in the frame wall 11. The left and right sliding movements are preferably effected by connections at the left or outside of the left frame wall, whereat the bar is shown provided with lateral pins 38 engaging in the lower yoked end of a'lever 39 as seen in Fig. 2; corresponding with the similar lever in said patent. As the actuating mechanism is shown substantially identical with said patent it will only be generally referred to herein, as the patent may be referred to for further details.

The lever 39 by which the bar 37 and block 35 are shifted left and right is shown fulcrumed at 40 at its top end, and actuated by a link 41 eX- tending from rack bar to be described, so that When the rack bar is moved downwardly and upwardly, the sliding .bar 37 will be shifted left- Wardly and rightwardly.

The pinion or gear 33 which actuates the cutter shank is mounted on a shaft 42 which extends leftward through the casting 17 and left frame Wall 11, the shaft emerging outside the frame wall and there carrying a pinion 43, as shown in Fig. 2. This pinion is rotated in reverse directions by the rack or teeth 44 formed on the rack bar 45, mounted on the left frame wall in a manner to slide downwardly and upwardly, thereby effecting the forward and return movements of the severing blade. The sliding rack bar 45 is mounted in a lower guide 46 and above is guided by a roll 47, the bar having an extension 48 by which its actuation is effected.

As in said patent the actuation of the described connections is performed by a toggle device comprising a lower toggle link 50 and an upper link 5l, the mutual pivot being connected to an operating rod 58 which extends forwardly along the frame wall to where at its front end 61 it is tapered for resetting purposes and notched for latching purposes. A strong spring 63 is arranged to throw the rod rearwardly when tripped, this straightening the toggles and actuating the described severing and shifting mechanism. The notched front end 61 of the toggle operating rod 58 is normally, during stitching, engaged by a latch or finger engaging in the notch in the rod. The particular mountings of the latch or finger 70 may be as in said patent, and arranged with an outstanding trip lever 79 which is pressed downwardly by a coil spring 80 but which may be thrown upwardly for the purpose of withdrawing the latch finger and thus tripping the severing mechanism. The trip lever 79 is arranged in convenient access, so that after the completion of a seam the operator may elevate the work or shoe and with it strike up the lever thus tripping the toggle mechanism and causing the severing of the welt as described at a to the left of the stitching the last stitch connecting the welt to the work. After actuation the latch may be reset by power as in said patent.

As in said patent the machine may contain a safety device preventing the accidental tripping of the severing mechanism during the stitching of a seam. In Fig. 1 is shown a lever 93, 95 fulcrumed at 94, with a spring 96 pulling down 97 which, upon the stopping of the stitching, thrusts up on the arm against the resistance of the spring. This for example may be effected by the lettingup of the pedal by which the stitching is controlled. From the arm 93 extend connections, unnecessary here to describe, by which is prevented the tripping of the severing mechanism by the trip lever 79 except after the machine has been stopped and the lever arm 93 thereby thrown downwardly to effect release and permit tripping of the severing mechanism.

It will be understood from the above that each severing actuation of this invention involves the quick spring-effected leftward shift of the welt guide part 24, and simultaneously therewith the frontward stroke of the severing blade, to thrust the work leftward and to cut the welt at the desired point,y as a half inch to the left of the stitching plane, following which the parts are immediately restored as the toggle 50, 51 is moved beyond its straight line position, the blade thereby retracting diagonally rightward and rearward and the welt guide part 24 retracting rightward to its normal relation to the welt guide body. During this retracting or restoring movement there might be a tendency of the part 24 to drag back with it the welt, which has been properly advanced to a convenient position for starting the next seam. .To prevent such accidental retraction of the welt strip any convenient locking or holding means for the welt may be provided, such for example as a pawl 109 disposed in such manner as to bear upon the welt and prevent its rightward retraction during the retraction of the part 24 and, if desired, until the starting of the next seam. The pawl is preferably mounted on the body of the welt guide 20 and bears down upon the upper side of the welt strip passing into the part 24. Such pawl or holding device may be substantially the same as the correspondingly numbered part in said patent, and the pawl may be controlled as in said patent or may be subject to spring pressure causing it to bear upon the welt; the pawl 100 being representative of any convenient means of preventing the accidental reverse slippage of the welt strip after the severance thereof.

The present improvement may be summed up by reference to its essential parts and their actions as follows. The welt guide, referring to the part 24, t's positioned normally at the feed side of the stitching plan-e or point x, that is, at the side from which the welt is supplied, for guiding the welt to the work, but is shiftable advancingly beyond the stitching plane, that is in the direction of feed, toI cooperate in the severing of the welt. In some cases the welt guide body might shift along with the part 24, but preferably does not shift, and is used to support the pawl or holder preventing reverse slip cf the welt. The severing device or blade is actuable to sever the Welt at a severng plane y substantially beyond the stitching plane, as marked on Fig. 3. This might cut independently of the welt guide but preferably cooperates with the latter in a shearing action, and further preferably comes frontward as it advances, thus taking a diagonal motion and retaining its relation to the welt guide. Actuating mechanism operates these elements after the stitching is completed; the welt is advancingly shifted to an extent to bring its advanced side or edge substantially beyond the severing plane y to a plane or point 2, compelling the work and welt tobe correspondingly advanced, and the severing device being simultaneously operated to ron without departing from the principles it is notA intended to limit the invention to such mattersy except to the extent set forth in the appended claim.

What is claimed is:

Ina welt sewing'machine a welt guide normally atl the right or feed side of the stitching plane for guiding the Welt to the Work, but shiftable advancingly or leftWard beyond the stitching plane to cooperate in the severing of the welt,

said welt guide having a severing kerf normally substantially to the right of the stitching plane, a severing blade fitted to operate in shearing I'elation Within the severing kerf, and actuating mechanism operable after the completion of stitching for shifting the welt guide from its nor-v mal position substantially to the right of the stitching plane-in a leftward direction to cross the stitching plane and further leftward to-anextent to bri-ng its kerf substantially to the left of the stitching plane, compelling the Work and welt to be correspondingly shifted leftward, and for operating the severing blade thereupon to sever the Welt at the severing plane between and substantially removed from both the work and the stitching plane; whereby there will remain a substantial Welt end on the work, and,v after retraction of the welt guide tornormal position, a substantial Welt end projecting from the welt guide.

JOHN ROGER OLIVER.

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