US2192166A - Shoe sewing machine - Google Patents
Shoe sewing machine Download PDFInfo
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- US2192166A US2192166A US146409A US14640937A US2192166A US 2192166 A US2192166 A US 2192166A US 146409 A US146409 A US 146409A US 14640937 A US14640937 A US 14640937A US 2192166 A US2192166 A US 2192166A
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- welt
- work
- presser foot
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- machine
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- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 title description 49
- 230000007246 mechanism Effects 0.000 description 28
- 239000011435 rock Substances 0.000 description 20
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 13
- 208000027418 Wounds and injury Diseases 0.000 description 2
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000006378 damage Effects 0.000 description 2
- 208000014674 injury Diseases 0.000 description 2
- 230000000717 retained effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006073 displacement reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 208000017740 grade III prostatic intraepithelial neoplasia Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000002045 lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- NJPPVKZQTLUDBO-UHFFFAOYSA-N novaluron Chemical compound C1=C(Cl)C(OC(F)(F)C(OC(F)(F)F)F)=CC=C1NC(=O)NC(=O)C1=C(F)C=CC=C1F NJPPVKZQTLUDBO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000003813 thumb Anatomy 0.000 description 1
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-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B15/00—Machines for sewing leather goods
- D05B15/02—Shoe sewing machines
- D05B15/04—Shoe sewing machines for lock-stitch work
Definitions
- the present invention relates to shoe sewing machines, and more particularly to a machine for attaching a welt to an unlasted upper in the manufacture of shoes of the pre-welt type.
- the lasting 01' the welted upper may be simplified and the appearance of the completed shoe improved if the margin of the upper around the toe portion of the shoe is puckered or gathered slightly during the operation of sewing the upper and welt together.
- the puckering operation results in partially shaping the upper before the welt is attached, thereby reducing the effort required to secure the proper inturn of the margin of the upper over the last, such shaping being particularly diflicult in the case of prewelt shoes because of the stiilness imparted to the upper by the attached welt.
- the present invention has for its object the provision of a shoe sewing machine for sewing a welt to the margin of an unlasted upper, having novel and improved mechanism for puckerlng the upper during the sewing operation, whereby-the upper is secured to the welt with the margin of the upper in puckered condition.
- a feature of the invention contemplates the provision in a shoe sewing machine having stitch forming, work feeding, and work clamping devices adapted to sew a welt to the margin of an unlasted upper, of means actuated during the time the work is clamped to feed the upper with relation to the welt to pucker the upper and cause the welt and upper to be secured together with the margin of the upperin puckered condition.
- Another feature of the invention resides in the provision of upper puckering mechanism which may be readily adjusted by the operator during the sewing operation whereby the amount of puckering imparted to the upper may be varied from the maximum to zero.
- another feature of the invention contemplates utilizing the movements of the work clamping devices to move the feed member or point of the upper puckering mechanism into and out of engagement with the upper, and acturelation to the movements of the work clamping devices, the feed point may be given any suitable quadrilateral motion with relatively simple mechanism.
- such an arrangement permits themagnitude of the puckering stroke of the feed point to be adjusted independently of the movement of the work clamping devices.
- FIG. 1 is a view in left side elevation of a shoe sewing machine embodying the invention, indicating certain of the enclosed operated parts in broken lines;
- Fig. 2 is a view in front elevation, on a somewhat larger scale, of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1;
- Fig. 3 is a detail sectional view showing the camshaft, rock shafts, and actuating means therefor, taken on theline 3-8 of Fig. 1;
- Fig. 1 is a view in left side elevation of a shoe sewing machine embodying the invention, indicating certain of the enclosed operated parts in broken lines;
- Fig. 2 is a view in front elevation, on a somewhat larger scale, of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1;
- Fig. 3 is a detail sectional view showing the camshaft, rock shafts, and actuating means therefor, taken on theline 3-8 of Fig. 1;
- FIG. 4 is a detail view in front elevation, on an enlarged scale, of the parts adjacent the sewing point, showing the puckering device, presser-foot, work support, needle and awl, and with portions of a welt and upper being operated upon;
- Figs. 5 and 6 are fragmentary views of the parts illustrated in Fig. 4, taken at different times in the cycle of operation of the machine;
- Fig. 'l is a top plan view, partly in section, of the parts illustrated in Fig. 4;
- Fig. 8 is a detail view in left side elevation, partly in section, taken along the line 8-8 of Fig. 4, but with the mechanism in the position represented by Fig. 5;
- Fig. 5 and 6 are fragmentary views of the parts illustrated in Fig. 4, taken at different times in the cycle of operation of the machine;
- Fig. 'l is a top plan view, partly in section, of the parts illustrated in Fig. 4;
- Fig. 8 is a detail view in left side elevation, partly in section,
- Fig. 9 is a right hand sectional detail of the welt guide and feed point, taken along the line 99 of Fig. 4;
- Fig. 10 is a top plan detail view of the presser foot, edge gauge, needle and feed point, taken along the line Ill-l of Fig. 4;
- Fig.11 is a detail view of the adjusting arm of the feed point actuating mechanism;
- Fig. 12 is a detail view in front elevation, partly in section, of the puckering device and certain of its actuating means, taken along the line 'l2-l2 of Fig. '7; and
- Fig. 13 is a detail sectional view of the same taken along the line
- the shoe sewing machine illustratedin Figs. 1' and 2 as embodying the invention is a straight hook needle, chain stitch sewing machine of the type generally known as the "Puritan machine, certain features of which are specifically described in U. S. Letters Patent to Frank W. Merrick Nos. 490,854, issued January 31, 1893, 490,856,
- stitch forming and work feeding devices comprising a straight hook needle 2, a straight awl 4, a needle threading looper 6, and a needle cast-oif 8. These devices are actuated from a sewing cam shaft l0 journalledinbearingsintheheadportion II ofthe frame of the machine.
- the cam shaft II is rotated by means of a belt II driven by a motor, not shown. in the base of the bench or pedestal II upon which the machine is mounted, the belt running over a pulley II comprising the continuously rotating portion of clutch mechanism for starting and stopping the machine, while the member II is secured to the cam shaft II, and constitutes the cooperating clutch member.
- a lever II pivotally mounted on the machine frame is provided with an arm adapted to bear against a pin II in the center of the member II, the other arm of the lever II being connected to a foot treadle, not shown, which may be actuated by the operator to engage the clutch and start the machine.
- the machine is stopped by releasing the treadle, a spring II rocking the lever II to e the clutch and also to apply a friction brake II by which the cam shaft is brought quickly to rest.
- the needle is secured in the end of a needle bar II mounted to permit vertical sliding movement inanarmII.
- Theneedlecast-oifI islikewise secured to a cast-oil bar II slidingly mounted in the arm II parallel to the needle bar II.
- the needle- is reciprocated vertically by connections from the cam shaft II comprising an eccentric II on the cam shaft, an eccentric strap II surrounding the eccentric, a rod II connecting the eccentric strap with an' arm on rock shaft II in the base portion II of the machine frame, an arm II on the other end of the rock shaft, and a link II between said arm and the needle bar II.
- the armII in which the needle and cast-off bars are mounted is arranged for rocking movement to cause the needle to feed the work past the sewing point.
- the arm is secured 'to a rock shaft II pivotally mounted on conical pointed screws II in the base of the machine and is rocked by connections from the cam shaft II in a forwardly or work advancing direction when the needle is through the work, and in a backward or retracting direction when the needle is withdrawn from the work.
- These connections comprise a yoke II embracing the eccentric II, and a work feeding lever II secured at its lower end to an arm II on the rock shaft II.
- the awl I is clamcd inthe lower end of an awl bar II mounted for vertical sliding movement in the head portion II of the machine frame, the awl bar being reciprocated by means of a crank disc II on the end of the cam shaft I I and a connecting rod II which links the crank pin with a pivot block II on the awl bar II.
- the thread is placed in the hook of the needle when the needle is through the work by means of a looper I actuated by mechanism described in Patent No. 490,856 heretofore mentioned, by which the looper is caused to travel in a substantially circular path around the needle.
- the looper I is mounted in the downwardly extending arm of a sleeve II pivotally secured to the lower end of an eccentric strap II surrounding a spherical surface eccentric II on the cam shaft II.
- the sleeve is also rotatably mounted on a rod II pivoted at one end for vertical rocking movement on center screws II in the machine frame.
- the thread on its passage to the looper is drawn through a wax pot II of conventional arrangement mounted on the head of the machine.
- the work is clamped intermittently against the work support II between each work feeding movement of the needle by means of a presser foot III on the lower end of a presser foot bar III.
- the presser foot bar is mounted in the head portion of the machine parallel to the awl bar 'II, and is raised and lowered in proper timed relation to the stitch forming devices by mechanism more fully illustrated and described in Letters Patent No. 629,108. above referred to, the presser foot bar being urged downwardly to clamp the work by a spring III mounted on the head of the machine and bearing against the end of the presser foot bar III.
- the presser foot actuating mechanism comprises an eccentric III on the cam shaft, an eccentric strap III surrounding the eccentric and pivotally connected to an arm III secured to one end of a rock shaft III comprising a sleeve surrounding and relatively rotatable with respect to an inner rock shaft III pivotally mounted on lugs III projecting from the head of the machine.
- the inner rock shaft III forms a portion of the actuating mechanism, hereinafter described, for puckering the upper.
- the other end of the outer rock shaft III is provided with an arm III which extends into an aperture in one arm of a lever III pivotally mounted on the inner rock shaft III, the arm III being engaged by set screws III by which the angular position of the lever III with respect to the rock shaft III may be adjusted.
- the presser foot is raised during counter-clockwise rocking movement of the lever III, as viewed in Fig.2, by the engagement of the arm III with a lug on block III which actuates clutching mechanism to lock said block to the presser foot bar III, whereby continued counter-clockwise movement of the lever III lifts the presser foot to unclamp the work.
- the clutching mechanism comprises a cylindrical nut III threaded to engage a rapid pitch screw thread III formed in the upper end of the presser foot bar III.
- means for limiting the descent of the presser foot bar so that the presser foot cannot come into contact with the work support 96.
- Said means comprise a block I50 clamped to the presser foot bar H4 and extending into a slot I52 in the head ofv the machine frame, the block being so positioned on the presser foot bar that it will bottom in the slot I52 with the presser foot just clearing the surface of the work support 96.
- the mechanism for gathering or puckering the upper is illustrated in detail in Figs 4 through 13, and is actuated by connections hereinafter described from the cam shaft .of the machine to advance the upper with relation to thewelt toward the needle while the latter is through the work and during the time the work is clamped by the presser foot, and to hold the pucker in the upper until the work has been secured by the completion of the stitch.
- the puckering mechanism is mounted adjacent the sewing point on a bracket I60 secured to the lower end of the presser foot bar H4 directly above the presser foot, by means of a clamp pin I62 which is tightened against the presser foot bar by nut I64, the work engaging portion of the puckering mechanism receiving its work engaging and disengagingmovements directly from the actuation of the presser foot bar.
- the work engaging member of the puckering mechanism comprises a feed point I66 which is secured to the lower end of an arm I68 adjustably mounted by means of nuts I10 in the short arm "I of the lever I12, hereinafter called the puckering lever, pivotally mounted on one arm of the bracket I60.
- the feed point is provided with a depending spur I14 which prevents slipping of the feed point relative to the upper during the puckering operation, the nuts I10 being adjusted so that the spur partially penetrates the upper when the presser footis clamping the upper under the pressure of the spring H6.
- the portion of the upper which is advanced by the feed point during its upper puckering stroke is supported by the surface I16 on the work entering side of the work support 96.
- This surface is inclined to the principal work supporting surface, and forms a plane substantially parallel to the path of the feed point, so that the latter engages the upper with uniform pressure during the stroke of the feed point.
- the inclination of the surface I16 likewise affords a clearance space between the work support and the presser foot to accommodate the increased thickness of the puckered upper, as illustrated in Figure 5..
- the presser foot H2 is provided with a spur I18 which is oppositely faced with respect to the spur on the feed point and which engages the welt adjacent the needle, as illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5, when the presser foot is in work clamping position.
- the feed point I66 in addition to its function as the upper engaging portion of the puckering mechanism, is adapted to guide the welt to the sewing point, and to this end is provided with two members I and I82 (see Fig. 9) which cooperate to form a passage I84 through which the welt is fed diagonally downward to the sewing point, as illustrated in Fig. 4.
- These members are secured to the arm I68 by means of a pin I86 threaded for a portion of its length and received in a threaded hole in the arm I68.
- the member I82 is retained in position by a nut I 88 on the threaded end of the pin I86, while'the member I80 is secured by a screw I90 in the other end of the pin.
- the means connecting the puckering lever I12 with the rocking lever I94 may be adjusted bythe operator, without stopping the machine, to vary the arc of rock of the feed point, including adjustment to reduce such rocking movement to zero.
- the connecting means for accomplishing this result comprises a pin 200 mounted in a slide 202 which is received in a guideway 204 in the long arm of the puckering lever I12, the pin engaging the slotted arm 206 of the rocking or bell crank lever I94.
- the slide 202 is secured to one end of a.
- the rod 2" is provided with a collar 2
- Fig. 4 shows the parts just before the puckering stroke of the feed point which has been brought into engagement with the upper by the downward movement of the presser foot to work clamping position.
- the needle and awl are both descending, the needle drawing the loop of thread into the work.
- Fig. 5 represents the parts after the feed point has moved toward the presser foot to form the pucker in the upper, and while holding the pucker preparatory to the work piercing stroke of the awl.
- the cam shaft has advanced substantially three quarters of a revolution from the position corresponding to Fig. 4, the needle having completed the stitch and is now at the top of its stroke and about to receive a new loop of thread.
- the presser foot and with it the feed point have been'raised out of contact with the work, and the-feed point has commenced to move toward its retracted position.
- the presser foot will descend to clamp the work and bring the feed point into engagement with the upper, the parts then appearing as shown in Fig. 4. a
- the invention has been illustrated and described ,as embodied in a sewing machine in which the clamping and unclamping movements of the presser foot are utilized to provide work engaging and disengaging movements for the upper puckering mechanism, and in which separate actuating mechanism is provided for imparting the upper advancing movements to the puckering device
- the invention is not so limited, but contemplates within its scope mach nes which are adapted to sew a welt to an unlasted upper, having upper puckering mechanism, the work engaging and upper advancing movements of which are independently produced by separate and distinct mechanisms, or having upper puckering mechanism whereby any degree of puckering from maximum to zero may be secured while the machine remains in operation.
- a machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, a sewing cam shaft, and stitch forming and work feeding and clamping devices, including a hook needle, a work support engaging the upper, a presser foot cooperating therewith to engage against the welt, and means operating on the welt-engaging side of the upper to feed the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing operation to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition.
- a machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, and a presser foot, the welt-guiding means having provision for operating on the welt, engaging side of the upper to feed the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing operation to ment, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle, a work support a presser foot movable to clamp and unclamp the work during each stitch forming cycle, and means actuated while the presser-foot is in clamped position to feed the upper with relation to the welt during thesewing operation to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition.
- a machine for usein the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges substantially in alignment, stitch forming, work clamping, and work feeding devices including a hook needle actuated to advance the work in'the line of feed, a presser foot actuated to clamp and unclamp the work during each stitch forming cycle, and
- a machine for use in the manufacture of pro-welt shoes having, in combination, means including a welt guide for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a feed point on the welt guide adapted to engage the upper, and means for actuating the welt guide to cause the feed point to advance the upperwith relation to the welt, whereby the upper may be secured to the welt in puckered condition.
- a machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt, said means having provision for adjustment while the machine is in operation to vary the rate of feed of the upper with relation to the welt progressively from the maximum to zero.
- a machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work clamping devices including a pivotally mounted lever, a feed point on the lever for engaging the upper, and means for imparting four-motion feeding movements to said lever to feed the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing opera-. tion to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition.
- a machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means -for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a presser foot, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt while the presser foot is clamping the work to pucker the upper, the presser foot being provided with means adapted to penetrate the welt to prevent displacement of the same while the upper is being puckered.
- a machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a presser foot movable to clamp and 1mclamp the work during each stitch forming cycle, a lever pivotally mounted adjacent said presser foot and bodily movable therewith, a feed point on the lever adapted to be moved into and out of engagement with the upper by the clamping and unclamping movements of the presser foot, and means for rocking said lever independently of the movement of the presser foot to feed the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing operation to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition.
- a machine for use in the manufacture of pro-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a sewing cam shaft, a presser foot, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt including a lever pivotally mounted adjacent the presser foot and bodily movable therewith, a feed point on the lever for engaging the upper, a second lever adapted to be rocked from the cam shaft of the machine, and a connection joining the levers and adjustable with respect to the pivotal centers of the same to vary the arc of rock of the first lever whereby the amount of puckering imparted to the upper may be adjusted.
- a machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having; in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a cam shaft, a presser foot, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt including a puckering lever pivotally mounted adjacent the presser foot and bodily movable therewith, a feed point on the lever for engaging the upper, a rocking lever actuated by connections from the cam shaft, means for actuating the puckering lever from the rocking lever including a pivotal connection adjustable with relation to the pivotal center of the rocking lever to vary the stroke of the puckering lever.
- a machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a cam shaft, a presser foot, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt including a puckering lever pivotally mounted adjacent the presser foot and bodily movable therewith, a rocking lever actuated by connections from the cam shaft, means for actuating the puckering lever from the rocking lever including a pivotal connection, the position of said pre-welt shoes having, in. combination, means,
- a machine for use in the manufacture or pre-weltshoes-having, in combination, means for uid a welt andan unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edgesalin substantial alignment, stitch forming, .work feeding,andwork clamping-devices including a work-support and a presserfoot. andfmeans for feeding the upper with relation to .thewelt while the work is clamped to cause the upperto be secured to the welt in puckered condition, the work clamping devices on the work entering side being shaped to accommodate the welt and puckered portion of the upper and to-support the same during a 15 portion of the sewing operation.
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Description
March 5, 1940. ASH/WQRTH 2,192,166
SHOE SEWING MACEINE Filed June 4, 1957 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 March 5, 1940. F. ASHWORTH SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 4, 1957 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 March 5, 1940. ASHWORTH SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 4, 1937 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 M72655 H C 252w March 5, 1940. v F, s wo 2,192,166
SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 4, 1937 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 i" i ,z 629 March 5, 1940. ASHWQRTHI 2,192,166
SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 4, 1957 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Wiinass #6 mm Patented Mar. 5, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 2,192,188 sno'E SEWING momma Jersey Application June 4, 1937, Serial No. 148,409
15 Claims.
The present invention relates to shoe sewing machines, and more particularly to a machine for attaching a welt to an unlasted upper in the manufacture of shoes of the pre-welt type.
It has been found that the lasting 01' the welted upper may be simplified and the appearance of the completed shoe improved if the margin of the upper around the toe portion of the shoe is puckered or gathered slightly during the operation of sewing the upper and welt together. The puckering operation results in partially shaping the upper before the welt is attached, thereby reducing the effort required to secure the proper inturn of the margin of the upper over the last, such shaping being particularly diflicult in the case of prewelt shoes because of the stiilness imparted to the upper by the attached welt.
The present invention has for its object the provision of a shoe sewing machine for sewing a welt to the margin of an unlasted upper, having novel and improved mechanism for puckerlng the upper during the sewing operation, whereby-the upper is secured to the welt with the margin of the upper in puckered condition.
To this end, a feature of the invention contemplates the provision in a shoe sewing machine having stitch forming, work feeding, and work clamping devices adapted to sew a welt to the margin of an unlasted upper, of means actuated during the time the work is clamped to feed the upper with relation to the welt to pucker the upper and cause the welt and upper to be secured together with the margin of the upperin puckered condition.
Another feature of the invention resides in the provision of upper puckering mechanism which may be readily adjusted by the operator during the sewing operation whereby the amount of puckering imparted to the upper may be varied from the maximum to zero.
More specifically, another feature of the invention contemplates utilizing the movements of the work clamping devices to move the feed member or point of the upper puckering mechanism into and out of engagement with the upper, and acturelation to the movements of the work clamping devices, the feed point may be given any suitable quadrilateral motion with relatively simple mechanism. In addition, such an arrangement permits themagnitude of the puckering stroke of the feed point to be adjusted independently of the movement of the work clamping devices.
Other objects and features of the present invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings.v in which Fig. 1 is a view in left side elevation of a shoe sewing machine embodying the invention, indicating certain of the enclosed operated parts in broken lines; Fig. 2 is a view in front elevation, on a somewhat larger scale, of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a detail sectional view showing the camshaft, rock shafts, and actuating means therefor, taken on theline 3-8 of Fig. 1; Fig. 4 is a detail view in front elevation, on an enlarged scale, of the parts adjacent the sewing point, showing the puckering device, presser-foot, work support, needle and awl, and with portions of a welt and upper being operated upon; Figs. 5 and 6 are fragmentary views of the parts illustrated in Fig. 4, taken at different times in the cycle of operation of the machine; Fig. 'l is a top plan view, partly in section, of the parts illustrated in Fig. 4; Fig. 8 is a detail view in left side elevation, partly in section, taken along the line 8-8 of Fig. 4, but with the mechanism in the position represented by Fig. 5; Fig. 9 is a right hand sectional detail of the welt guide and feed point, taken along the line 99 of Fig. 4; Fig. 10 is a top plan detail view of the presser foot, edge gauge, needle and feed point, taken along the line Ill-l of Fig. 4; Fig.11 is a detail view of the adjusting arm of the feed point actuating mechanism; Fig. 12 is a detail view in front elevation, partly in section, of the puckering device and certain of its actuating means, taken along the line 'l2-l2 of Fig. '7; and Fig. 13 is a detail sectional view of the same taken along the line |3-l3 of Fig. 12. i
The shoe sewing machine illustratedin Figs. 1' and 2 as embodying the invention is a straight hook needle, chain stitch sewing machine of the type generally known as the "Puritan machine, certain features of which are specifically described in U. S. Letters Patent to Frank W. Merrick Nos. 490,854, issued January 31, 1893, 490,856,
issued-January 31, 1893, and 629,108, issued July The machine is provided with stitch forming and work feeding devices comprising a straight hook needle 2, a straight awl 4, a needle threading looper 6, and a needle cast-oif 8. These devices are actuated from a sewing cam shaft l0 journalledinbearingsintheheadportion II ofthe frame of the machine.
The cam shaft II is rotated by means of a belt II driven by a motor, not shown. in the base of the bench or pedestal II upon which the machine is mounted, the belt running over a pulley II comprising the continuously rotating portion of clutch mechanism for starting and stopping the machine, while the member II is secured to the cam shaft II, and constitutes the cooperating clutch member. A lever II pivotally mounted on the machine frame is provided with an arm adapted to bear against a pin II in the center of the member II, the other arm of the lever II being connected to a foot treadle, not shown, which may be actuated by the operator to engage the clutch and start the machine. The machine is stopped by releasing the treadle, a spring II rocking the lever II to e the clutch and also to apply a friction brake II by which the cam shaft is brought quickly to rest.
The needle is secured in the end of a needle bar II mounted to permit vertical sliding movement inanarmII. Theneedlecast-oifIislikewise secured to a cast-oil bar II slidingly mounted in the arm II parallel to the needle bar II.
The needle-is reciprocated vertically by connections from the cam shaft II comprising an eccentric II on the cam shaft, an eccentric strap II surrounding the eccentric, a rod II connecting the eccentric strap with an' arm on rock shaft II in the base portion II of the machine frame, an arm II on the other end of the rock shaft, and a link II between said arm and the needle bar II.
The cast-oi! I is actuated by similar connections, enumerated as follows: An eccentric II on the cam shaft II, an eccentric strap II, a rod II connecting the eccentric strap with an arm on one endofarockshaft IIinthe baseII,anarm a II on the other end of the rock shaft, and'a link II joining the arm II with the cast-oil! bar II.
The armII in which the needle and cast-off bars are mounted is arranged for rocking movement to cause the needle to feed the work past the sewing point. The arm is secured 'to a rock shaft II pivotally mounted on conical pointed screws II in the base of the machine and is rocked by connections from the cam shaft II in a forwardly or work advancing direction when the needle is through the work, and in a backward or retracting direction when the needle is withdrawn from the work. These connections comprise a yoke II embracing the eccentric II, and a work feeding lever II secured at its lower end to an arm II on the rock shaft II. By mechanism indicated generally at II and comprising a series of pivotally connected yokes arranged as described in Letters Patent No. 490,854 above referred to, the center about which the lever II is rocked by eccentric II may be raised or lowered by handle II, with the result that the arc of rock of the work feeding arm II may be adjusted to produce any desired rate of feed.
The awl I is clamcd inthe lower end of an awl bar II mounted for vertical sliding movement in the head portion II of the machine frame, the awl bar being reciprocated by means of a crank disc II on the end of the cam shaft I I and a connecting rod II which links the crank pin with a pivot block II on the awl bar II.
The thread is placed in the hook of the needle when the needle is through the work by means of a looper I actuated by mechanism described in Patent No. 490,856 heretofore mentioned, by which the looper is caused to travel in a substantially circular path around the needle. The looper I is mounted in the downwardly extending arm of a sleeve II pivotally secured to the lower end of an eccentric strap II surrounding a spherical surface eccentric II on the cam shaft II. The sleeve is also rotatably mounted on a rod II pivoted at one end for vertical rocking movement on center screws II in the machine frame. The thread on its passage to the looper is drawn through a wax pot II of conventional arrangement mounted on the head of the machine.
The machine is provided with means for supporting the work adjacent the sewing point comprising a work support II clamped in the upper end of an arm II pivotally mounted on the base portion of the machine frame. The work support is provided with an elongated aperture III through which the needle passes, and an edge gage III is adjustably secured to the support for guiding the work. The arm II is locked in vertical position by means of a. pin III which may be slid by handle III lengthwise through lugs III on the base of the machine into and out of engagement with the lug III on the arm II. With the pin out of lug III, the arm may be swung to one side to expose the needle and cast-01f.
The work is clamped intermittently against the work support II between each work feeding movement of the needle by means of a presser foot III on the lower end of a presser foot bar III. The presser foot bar is mounted in the head portion of the machine parallel to the awl bar 'II, and is raised and lowered in proper timed relation to the stitch forming devices by mechanism more fully illustrated and described in Letters Patent No. 629,108. above referred to, the presser foot bar being urged downwardly to clamp the work by a spring III mounted on the head of the machine and bearing against the end of the presser foot bar III.
The presser foot actuating mechanism comprises an eccentric III on the cam shaft, an eccentric strap III surrounding the eccentric and pivotally connected to an arm III secured to one end of a rock shaft III comprising a sleeve surrounding and relatively rotatable with respect to an inner rock shaft III pivotally mounted on lugs III projecting from the head of the machine. The inner rock shaft III forms a portion of the actuating mechanism, hereinafter described, for puckering the upper. The other end of the outer rock shaft III is provided with an arm III which extends into an aperture in one arm of a lever III pivotally mounted on the inner rock shaft III, the arm III being engaged by set screws III by which the angular position of the lever III with respect to the rock shaft III may be adjusted.
The presser foot is raised during counter-clockwise rocking movement of the lever III, as viewed in Fig.2, by the engagement of the arm III with a lug on block III which actuates clutching mechanism to lock said block to the presser foot bar III, whereby continued counter-clockwise movement of the lever III lifts the presser foot to unclamp the work. The clutching mechanism comprises a cylindrical nut III threaded to engage a rapid pitch screw thread III formed in the upper end of the presser foot bar III.
The nut III fits loosely inside a cylindrical bore in block III, and is free to rotate therein except when the block is tilted by lever III, jamming the nut against rotation and thus preventing movethe presser descends to work clamping position. The downward movement of-the sleeve is limited by nuts I48 at the top of the sleeve, which may be adjusted to vary the point to which the sleeve descends. Since the point in the rocking movement of the lever I82 at which the clutching mechanism engages and releases the presser foot bar is determined solely by the setting of the nuts I48 at the top of sleeve I44, the presser foot is always lifted a uniform distance above the work regardless of variations in the thickness of the work.
To prevent injury to the presser foot and to the hereinafter described puckering mechanism in the event the machine is operated without work, means are provided for limiting the descent of the presser foot bar so that the presser foot cannot come into contact with the work support 96. Said means comprise a block I50 clamped to the presser foot bar H4 and extending into a slot I52 in the head ofv the machine frame, the block being so positioned on the presser foot bar that it will bottom in the slot I52 with the presser foot just clearing the surface of the work support 96. The block is also provided with a projecting pin I54 adapted to be engaged by a lever I56 the other end of which is connected by a rod I58 to a treadle, not shown, by which the presser foot may be raised by the operator to facilitate the inserting or removal of work when the machine is at rest.
The mechanism for gathering or puckering the upper is illustrated in detail in Figs 4 through 13, and is actuated by connections hereinafter described from the cam shaft .of the machine to advance the upper with relation to thewelt toward the needle while the latter is through the work and during the time the work is clamped by the presser foot, and to hold the pucker in the upper until the work has been secured by the completion of the stitch. The puckering mechanism is mounted adjacent the sewing point on a bracket I60 secured to the lower end of the presser foot bar H4 directly above the presser foot, by means of a clamp pin I62 which is tightened against the presser foot bar by nut I64, the work engaging portion of the puckering mechanism receiving its work engaging and disengagingmovements directly from the actuation of the presser foot bar.
The work engaging member of the puckering mechanism comprises a feed point I66 which is secured to the lower end of an arm I68 adjustably mounted by means of nuts I10 in the short arm "I of the lever I12, hereinafter called the puckering lever, pivotally mounted on one arm of the bracket I60. I The feed point is provided with a depending spur I14 which prevents slipping of the feed point relative to the upper during the puckering operation, the nuts I10 being adjusted so that the spur partially penetrates the upper when the presser footis clamping the upper under the pressure of the spring H6.
The portion of the upper which is advanced by the feed point during its upper puckering stroke is supported by the surface I16 on the work entering side of the work support 96. This surface is inclined to the principal work supporting surface, and forms a plane substantially parallel to the path of the feed point, so that the latter engages the upper with uniform pressure during the stroke of the feed point. The inclination of the surface I16 likewise affords a clearance space between the work support and the presser foot to accommodate the increased thickness of the puckered upper, as illustrated in Figure 5..
To insure .that the welt will not be advanced during the puckering of the upper andto reduce the strain on the needle during such time, the presser foot H2 is provided with a spur I18 which is oppositely faced with respect to the spur on the feed point and which engages the welt adjacent the needle, as illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5, when the presser foot is in work clamping position.
The feed point I66, in addition to its function as the upper engaging portion of the puckering mechanism, is adapted to guide the welt to the sewing point, and to this end is provided with two members I and I82 (see Fig. 9) which cooperate to form a passage I84 through which the welt is fed diagonally downward to the sewing point, as illustrated in Fig. 4. These members are secured to the arm I68 by means of a pin I86 threaded for a portion of its length and received in a threaded hole in the arm I68. The member I82 is retained in position by a nut I 88 on the threaded end of the pin I86, while'the member I80 is secured by a screw I90 in the other end of the pin. 1
To accommodate welting of various widths, the spacing of the members I 80 and I82 may be adjusted to vary the width of the passage I84. This is accomplished by loosening nut I 88 and screw I90 and rotating the pin I86 in or out of v the arm I68 to move the member I80 toward pivoted on pin I96, in a rearwardly extending arm I98 of the bracket I60, and rocked continuously and with constant stroke from the cam shaft I0 of the machine.
To permit the operator readily to control the amount of puckering imparted to the upper to suit the character of the work and to suspend entirely the actuation of the feed point when securing the welt to portions of the upper which require no puckering, the means connecting the puckering lever I12 with the rocking lever I94 may be adjusted bythe operator, without stopping the machine, to vary the arc of rock of the feed point, including adjustment to reduce such rocking movement to zero.- The connecting means for accomplishing this result comprises a pin 200 mounted in a slide 202 which is received in a guideway 204 in the long arm of the puckering lever I12, the pin engaging the slotted arm 206 of the rocking or bell crank lever I94. The slide 202 is secured to one end of a. rod 208 whichpassesthroughanopeningintheend of the sleeve I82 and is provided with a handle 2" by which the slide may be moved along the guideway to change the position of the pin 2" in the arm 2| with relation to the pivotal center of the bell crank lever. when the handle is pushed to the left to move the pin to the outer end of the slot in arm 2", the maximum arc of rock of the feed point is obtained. As the slide is drawn to the right by handle 2", the rate of puckering is reduced, so that when the pin 2" reaches the inner end of the slot and becomes axially aligned with the pivotal center of the bell crank, as illustrated in Fig. 12, the rate of puckering becomes zero, since there is then no rocking. movement transmitted from the bell crank to the puckering lever I12.
The slide 2024s retained in adjusted position by means of ratchet mechanism comprising a plunger 2l2 within the sleeve I92 and provided with a pointed end adapted to engage serrations 2 formed inthe adjusting rod 208, the plunger being maintained in yielding engagement with the rod by means of a spring 2i6 interposed between the plunger and the closed end of the sleeve I92.
As an aid to the operator in rapidly setting the puckering mechanism to produce the desired degree of puckering during the sewing of the welt and upper, the rod 2" is provided with a collar 2|! secured to the rod by a thumb screw 22! and serving as an adjustable stop to limit the amount the rod may be pushed in when the puckering operation is to be commenced.
- The bell crank lever I94 is rocked by connections from a cam disc 222 mounted on the cam shaft ll adjacent the eccentric III which actuates the presser foot. The cam disc is particularly illustrated in Fig. 3, and is provided with a cam path which is engaged by a follower on the end of an arm 224 mounted on the inner rock shaft I26 above referred to. An arm 226 at the other end of the rock shaft I26 is connected to the bell crank lever in by a link 22! the length of which may be varied by means of nuts 22! whereby the clockwise limit of rotation of the bell crank may be adjusted to bring the slot in arm 2 into alignment with the pivotal center of the puckering lever "2, with the result that the feed point may rock in work advancing direction up to and even into contact with the presser foot withoutrisk of injury to the parts, since the limit of rock of the feedpoint is by the aforesaid adjustment rendered constant for all settings of the slide 202.
Due to the fact that the link 22! is substantially perpendicular to the presser foot bar 4, the raising and lowering of the presser foot has no appreciable eiiect on the rocking movement of the feed point, and hence the work engaging and work feeding movements are imparted to the feed po nt independently of, and without interferenee with, one another.
It has already been pointed out that the puckering strokeof the feed point takes place while the work is clamped by the presser foot and during the time the needle is through the work. To illustrate further the sequence of operations in the formation of a stitch in conjunction with the puckering of the upper, reference should be made to Figures 4 to 6. Fig. 4 shows the parts just before the puckering stroke of the feed point which has been brought into engagement with the upper by the downward movement of the presser foot to work clamping position. The needle and awl are both descending, the needle drawing the loop of thread into the work. Fig. 5 represents the parts after the feed point has moved toward the presser foot to form the pucker in the upper, and while holding the pucker preparatory to the work piercing stroke of the awl. In Fig.
6 the cam shaft has advanced substantially three quarters of a revolution from the position corresponding to Fig. 4, the needle having completed the stitch and is now at the top of its stroke and about to receive a new loop of thread. The presser foot and with it the feed point have been'raised out of contact with the work, and the-feed point has commenced to move toward its retracted position. After the needle has been actuated laterally to advance the upper and welt, the presser foot will descend to clamp the work and bring the feed point into engagement with the upper, the parts then appearing as shown in Fig. 4. a
While the invention has been illustrated and described ,as embodied in a sewing machine in which the clamping and unclamping movements of the presser foot are utilized to provide work engaging and disengaging movements for the upper puckering mechanism, and in which separate actuating mechanism is provided for imparting the upper advancing movements to the puckering device, the invention is not so limited, but contemplates within its scope mach nes which are adapted to sew a welt to an unlasted upper, having upper puckering mechanism, the work engaging and upper advancing movements of which are independently produced by separate and distinct mechanisms, or having upper puckering mechanism whereby any degree of puckering from maximum to zero may be secured while the machine remains in operation.
Where, in the claims, reference is made to means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment this is not to be considered as limiting the invention to a construction in which the upper and welt are guided with their edges exactly coinciding or flush, but also includes a construction in which'the upperand welt are presented to the sewing point with their edges more or less oflset, that is, with their edges in substantially parallel alignment, but not in registration.
The nature and scope of the invention having thus been described, what is claimed is:
1. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, a sewing cam shaft, and stitch forming and work feeding and clamping devices, including a hook needle, a work support engaging the upper, a presser foot cooperating therewith to engage against the welt, and means operating on the welt-engaging side of the upper to feed the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing operation to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition.
2. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, and a presser foot, the welt-guiding means having provision for operating on the welt, engaging side of the upper to feed the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing operation to ment, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle, a work support a presser foot movable to clamp and unclamp the work during each stitch forming cycle, and means actuated while the presser-foot is in clamped position to feed the upper with relation to the welt during thesewing operation to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition.
4. A machine for usein the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges substantially in alignment, stitch forming, work clamping, and work feeding devices including a hook needle actuated to advance the work in'the line of feed, a presser foot actuated to clamp and unclamp the work during each stitch forming cycle, and
means actuated while the work is clamped to feed the upper with relation to the welt to pucker the upper and hold said pucker until secured by support, a presser foot actuated to clamp and unclamp the work during each stitch forming cycle, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt to pucker the upper while the work is clamped, said means having provision for adjustment while the machine is in operation to vary the amount of relative feeding movement imparted to the upper.
v6. A machine for use in the manufacture of pro-welt shoes having, in combination, means including a welt guide for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a feed point on the welt guide adapted to engage the upper, and means for actuating the welt guide to cause the feed point to advance the upperwith relation to the welt, whereby the upper may be secured to the welt in puckered condition.
'7. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt, said means having provision for adjustment while the machine is in operation to vary the rate of feed of the upper with relation to the welt progressively from the maximum to zero.
8. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work clamping devices including a pivotally mounted lever, a feed point on the lever for engaging the upper, and means for imparting four-motion feeding movements to said lever to feed the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing opera-. tion to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition.
A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means -for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a presser foot, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt while the presser foot is clamping the work to pucker the upper, the presser foot being provided with means adapted to penetrate the welt to prevent displacement of the same while the upper is being puckered.
10. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a presser foot movable to clamp and 1mclamp the work during each stitch forming cycle, a lever pivotally mounted adjacent said presser foot and bodily movable therewith, a feed point on the lever adapted to be moved into and out of engagement with the upper by the clamping and unclamping movements of the presser foot, and means for rocking said lever independently of the movement of the presser foot to feed the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing operation to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition.
11. A machine for use in the manufacture of pro-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a sewing cam shaft, a presser foot, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt including a lever pivotally mounted adjacent the presser foot and bodily movable therewith, a feed point on the lever for engaging the upper, a second lever adapted to be rocked from the cam shaft of the machine, and a connection joining the levers and adjustable with respect to the pivotal centers of the same to vary the arc of rock of the first lever whereby the amount of puckering imparted to the upper may be adjusted.
12. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having; in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a cam shaft, a presser foot, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt including a puckering lever pivotally mounted adjacent the presser foot and bodily movable therewith, a feed point on the lever for engaging the upper, a rocking lever actuated by connections from the cam shaft, means for actuating the puckering lever from the rocking lever including a pivotal connection adjustable with relation to the pivotal center of the rocking lever to vary the stroke of the puckering lever.
13. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a cam shaft, a presser foot, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt including a puckering lever pivotally mounted adjacent the presser foot and bodily movable therewith, a rocking lever actuated by connections from the cam shaft, means for actuating the puckering lever from the rocking lever including a pivotal connection, the position of said pre-welt shoes having, in. combination, means,
for guiding a welt and an uniasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a work support, an upper puokering lever, a feed point on the lever, and means for actuating the lever to feed the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing operation, the work support having a portion of its surface adjacent the feed point substantially parallel to the path of feeding movement of said feed point whereby the upper is maintained in lmiform engagement with the feed point throughout the feeding stroke of the same. r i
15. A machine for use in the manufacture or pre-weltshoes-having, in combination, means for uid a welt andan unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edgesalin substantial alignment, stitch forming, .work feeding,andwork clamping-devices including a work-support and a presserfoot. andfmeans for feeding the upper with relation to .thewelt while the work is clamped to cause the upperto be secured to the welt in puckered condition, the work clamping devices on the work entering side being shaped to accommodate the welt and puckered portion of the upper and to-support the same during a 15 portion of the sewing operation.
. r FRED ABHWORTH.
CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION. 7 Patent No. 2,192,166 "mm. 19L;o.
4 FRED mamnwm- Y It is hereby cert1f-ied that' error appears inthe prihte depeoiflteation of the above numberedpatent requiring correction as foI l.ows: Page 1 sec- -'ond column, line 75-71;, elaimz, fox-welt, engaging": read welt ehgagi gg page 5, 'first column, line 8, cl im 5,. after. the Word"'su'ppo,rt", insert a comma; and that the said Letters Patent ehould be reaflwith th'ie'eorrection therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office. 4
Signed and sealed thie 50th day of April, D. 19110.
Henry Vail Ars dle, (Seal) Acting Commissioner of Patents."
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US146409A US2192166A (en) | 1937-06-04 | 1937-06-04 | Shoe sewing machine |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US146409A US2192166A (en) | 1937-06-04 | 1937-06-04 | Shoe sewing machine |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| US2192166A true US2192166A (en) | 1940-03-05 |
Family
ID=22517229
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| US146409A Expired - Lifetime US2192166A (en) | 1937-06-04 | 1937-06-04 | Shoe sewing machine |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| US (1) | US2192166A (en) |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2946300A (en) * | 1957-06-19 | 1960-07-26 | United Shoe Machinery Corp | Machines for fastening strips to other work |
| US2954748A (en) * | 1956-11-13 | 1960-10-04 | United Shoe Machinery Corp | Machines for fastening strips to other work |
| US3020861A (en) * | 1956-11-13 | 1962-02-13 | United Shoe Machinery Corp | Sewing machines |
-
1937
- 1937-06-04 US US146409A patent/US2192166A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2954748A (en) * | 1956-11-13 | 1960-10-04 | United Shoe Machinery Corp | Machines for fastening strips to other work |
| US3020861A (en) * | 1956-11-13 | 1962-02-13 | United Shoe Machinery Corp | Sewing machines |
| US2946300A (en) * | 1957-06-19 | 1960-07-26 | United Shoe Machinery Corp | Machines for fastening strips to other work |
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