US2142966A

US2142966A - Shoe sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US2142966A
Application number: US55086A
Authority: US
Inventors: Quinn Edward
Original assignee: DEL MAC SHOE PROCESS CORP
Current assignee: DEL MAC SHOE PROCESS CORP; DEL-MAC SHOE PROCESS Corp
Priority date: 1935-12-18
Filing date: 1935-12-18
Publication date: 1939-01-03
Anticipated expiration: 1956-01-03

Description

Jan. 3, 1939'. E. QUINN 2,142,966

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 18, 1935 s Shets-Sheet 1 lfTlVE NTOR RNEYS Jan. 3, 1939. E, QUINN SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 18, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 Jan; 3, 1939. E. QUINN SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

Filed Dec. 18, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 no mm D w A E NW 0 5 6H I- w 6 i w m m u.

ATTORNEYS L T Mm. w

ull:

1 llllll. II

Jan. 3, 1939. E. UINN SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec 1s; 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 l NVENTOR i mys Jan. 3, 1939. E. QUINN SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. l8 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 ATTORNEYS Jan. 3, 1939. E. QUINN 2,142,966

SHOE SEWING MAGHfNE Filed De'c. 18, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 INVENTOR 36 alwwl wfl BY MM' ATTORNEY Patente Jan. 3, 1939 STATES PATENT OFFICE snoa SEWING MACHINE tion of New York Application December 18, 1935, Serial No. 55,086

52 Claims.

The present invention relates to shoe sewing machines, and is herein disclosed as embodied in a straight needle machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe unsupported on a last.

It is a principal object of the present invention to provide a novel and improved machine of this general description including shoe supporting and guiding devices, which is well adapted to insert a row of stitches through the upper and the between substance ofthe sole between a shoulder adjacent the sole edge to which the upper is attached and a stitch receiving channel formed on the same side of the work.

It is a further object of the invention to provide in a machine of this general description, supporting and guiding devices of novel and improved construction and mode of operation which cooperate to provide a firm and sure support for the shoe during the operation of the stitching mechanism about the margin of the sole.

It is another object of the invention to provide in a machine of this general description, novel and improved thread handling and guiding devices which are particularly well arranged to lay a regular and even appearing row of chain stitches in the bottom of the stitch receiving channel in the sole to permit the subsequent closing of the channel lip to produce a smooth, regular appearing surface of the finished shoe sole.

With these and other objects in view as may hereinafter appear, one feature of the invention consists in the provision in a straight needle machine of the type herein described, including devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from v the same side of the work, of a horn which is arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point.

the provision of novel and improved .work supporting and guiding means which are arranged toextend within the stitch receiving channel to provide a firm support for the shoe on both sides of the needle in the line of feed, and which are at the same time of sufiiciently narrow compass to permit the proper operation of the machine about the sharply angled portions of the shoe sole.

the provision of a novel and improved presser foot engaging against the upper and a shoulder formed at the edge of the shoe sole, which is particularly constructed and arranged to provide 65 .a support for the shoe at both sides of and in Another feature of the invention consists in Another feature of the invention consists in close proximity to the needle during the upward thrust thereof.

Another feature of the invention consists in the provision of a. guard device which is arranged to smooth the upper across the shouldered por- 5 tion of the sole edge 'in advance of the operation of the presser foot, and is also arranged to clear adjacent portions of the upper lining when necessary from the path of the shoe supporting and stitching devices.

Another feature of the invention consists in the construction and arrangement of the shoe supporting and sewing devices to cause the shoe to be relieved slightly from clamping engagement with the channel engaging work support prior to the feeding movement of the needle in order to avoid impaling of the work upon the work support with possible injury to the work or the machine.

The several features of the invention consist also in the devices, combinations and arrangement of parts hereinafter described and claimed, which together with the advantages to be obtained thereby will be readily understood by one skilled in the art from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a view in side elevation of a straight needle sewing machine embodying in a preferred form the several features of applicants invention; Fig. 2 is a view in front elevation on a somewhat larger scale, of the machine shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is an enlarged detail view of certain of the parts shown in Fig. 1, illustrating more particularly the work supporting and guiding devices including the presser foot, the guards and horn; Fig. 4 is a detail sectional plan view taken on the line 44 of Fig. 2, illustrating particularly the presser foot lock; Fig. 5 is a front view on an enlarged scale with the shoe positioning guard broken away to illustrate particularly the needle and divided work support, together with the supporting means therefor; Fig. 6 is a sectional view in front elevation of the presser foot lock taken substantially on the line 6-6 of Fig. 4; Fig. 7 is a detail perspective view of a. block which forms part of the presser foot locking mechanism; Fig. 8 is a detail view similar to Fig. 3, but on a larger scale to illustrate the supporting and actuating mechanisms for the horn and the stationary work guard; Fig. 9 is a front view of the parts shown in Fig. 8; Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 8, with the stationary guard and supporting means therefor removed to illustrate underlying parts; Figs. 11, 12, 13 and 14 are substantially similar 2 aneaeee views in front elevation taken partly in section at the sewing point and with a portion of 'the shoe positioning guard broken away to illustrate the several steps in-the operation of the cooperating shoe sewing and supporting devices, Fig. 11 showing the awl through thework and the needle about to back feed, Fig. 12 showing the needle and movable work support at the limit of their back feeding movements to the right, with the needle again in line with the awl, Fig. 13 showing the needle fully extended through the work and about to receive a new bight of thread from the looper, and Fig. 14 showing the needle at the end of its feeding movement and about to be withdrawn through the work; Fig. 15 is a sectional plan view taken on the line l5-l5 of Fig. 13 to illustrate particularly the positions of the presser foot and the stationary and movable guards with relation to a shoe being operated upon; Fig. 16 is a sectional view in left elevation taken on the line l6-|B of Fig. 13; Fig. 17 is a detail sectional view taken through the sewing point with the parts in the position shown in Fig. 12, but looking from the back of the machine to illustrate particularly the operation of the movable work support inguiding the loop of needle thread into the stitch receiving channel; Fig. 18 is a sectional view taken through the sewing point and showing the parts at substantially the position shown in Fig. 13, but looking from the back of the machine to illustrate the final position of the needle loop as the needle again rises through the work; Fig. 19 is a sectional view taken on the line l9-l9 of Fig. 17; Fig. 20 is a view similar to Fig. 19 illustrating the operation on another portion of the shoe, in which the stitching extends through the lining attached to the upper and sole; and Figs. 21 to 24 inclusive, are somewhat similar views showing the formation of the chain stitch through the work including the sole, upper and lining, and also illustrating the manner in which the chain is laid in the stitch receiving channel.

The machine disclosed in the drawings as embodying in a preferred form the several features of the present invention, is a wax thread chainstitch machine of the overarm type having a work support and a straight hook needle located beneath the work, and a cooperating presser foot, awl and looper located in the overarm above the work. The needle is mounted on a swinging support for movements in the line of feed to impart a positive step-by-step feeding movement to the work. The present machine is particularly constructed and arranged for sewing a line of stitches around the margin of a turn shoe or slipper which is preferably assembled in a reverse position with the upper and lining attached thereto cemented or otherwise temporarily secured to a shoulder formed in the edge portion of the sole. The shoe or slipper is placed in the machine with the sole in a sharply inclined position so that the needle at its work piercing stroke will enter'the stitch receiving channel in the shoe sole, andpassing through the between substance, will emerge through the upper and lining in the groove formed by the shoulder edge of the shoe sole. The work is supported vertically against the downward thrust of the awl and against the work piercing and loop drawing strokes of the needle between a work support which is constructed and arranged to enter the switch receiving channel and a presser foot which engages the upper or lining as the case may be, in the grooved or hollowed edge portion of the shoe sole.

The soles of shoes which are to be sewn on this machine are preferably provided with a relatively deep shoulder, and have the side portions thereof molded to provide a relatively deep groove for the engagement of the presser foot to provide a maximum amount of support for the work transversely of the line of feed, and to assist in guiding the work as the point of operation is transferred about the shoe. In order further to assist in positioning the shoe, a stationary guard plate is mounted beneath the work for engagement with the shoe sole, and is adjustable to determine accurately the angle at which the needle and awl pass through the work. There is also provided a shoe supporting horn which is arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point, so that the shoe is held firmly against the stationary guard plate referred to, the work support, and presser foot, to provide an additional support for the shoe transversely of the line of feed. There is also provided with the present construction, a stationary guard member which is arranged to engage the shoe upper substantially at the sewing point, and also a movable guard member which serves to stretch the upper and lining in their proper positions in advance of' the sewing devices to prevent any possibility of injury to the upper or lining during the progress of the sewing operation about the shoe. With this construction and arrangement of the stitch forming and shoe supporting and feeding devices, a fully automatic operation of the machine is secured to transfer the point of opera tion about the shoe without the necessity of assistance or attention on the part of the operator.

As best shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings, the machine is provided with the usual base 38, column-32 and overarm 34 formed as a single casting. The stitch forming devices include ,a straight hook needle 36, a needle cast-off 38, awl 40, and looper 42, these parts having the usual construction and mode of operation of machines of this general description, and being operated from a main crank shaft 44 supported in the upper portion ofthe column 32 and overarm 34, and driven by means of a pulley 46 and belt 48 from any convenient source of power. The needle is secured to a needle bar 50 which is mounted for vertical reciprocatory movements in a frame 52 rigidly secured at its lower end to a rock shaft 54 extending rearwardly in the base 30 for swinging movements in the line of feed.

The mechanism for reciprocating the needle bar50 comprises a rock shaft 56 which extends rearwardly through the base 30 and is connected at its forward end by means of a laterally extending lever arm 58 and link 60 to the lower end of the needle bar 50, and at its rear end through a similarly offset lever arm and link 62 to a crank 64 on the crank shaft 44. Rocking movements are imparted to the shaft 54 and frame 52 carried thereby to feed the work, by means of connections including an upwardly extending lever arm 66 which is actuated from an eccentric 68 on the crank shaft 44 through an adjustable linkage system well known in the art.

The cast-off 38 is supported on a cast-off bar 10 which is actuated in the usual manner through connections, including a link 12, lever arm 14, and a rock shaft '16 which extends rearwardly through the base 30 and is controlled through a lever arm and link 1'! from the crank 64 on the main crank shaft 44.

The awl 40 of the present machine is mounted on an awl bar I8, and is driven from the crank shaft 44 through connections which as generally indicated in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, include a crank disk secured to the forward end of the crank shaft 44 and a link 82 connected at one end to the disk and at its other end to the awl bar I8.

The presser-foot 04 of the present machine is rigidly secured to the lower end of a vertically .movable presser-foot bar held yieldingly in engagement with the work by means of a leaf spring 88 (see Figs. 1 and 2) which engages against the I upper end of the presser-foot bar. The presser-foot bar is positively lifted to permit the feeding of the work through connections which include a rock shaft 90 provided at one end with a presser-foot lifting lever 02, and at its other end with a lever 94 which is actuated by means of an eccentric on the crank shaft 44. The rocking movement of the lever 92 is rendered operative to lift the presser-foot through a self-adjusting locking device which includes a loose nut 96 screw-threaded to the presser-foot bar, a

sleeve member 98 loosely supported on the bar and arranged to engage upon both sides of the nut 96, and a clamping lever 99 supported by the sleeve member 98, when the clamping lever 99 1s engaged by the presser foot lifting lever 92 to clamp the nut 96 in locking engagement with the presser foot bar 85, and thereafter to raise the presser foot 84 out of engagement with the work. Inasmuch as the presser foot actuating mechanism as thus far described, is substantially that illustrated in the patent to Merrick, No. 629,108, dated July 18, 1899, no further description or illustration thereof is believed necessary.

In accordance with one feature of the present invention, novel and improved work supporting means are provided which are arranged to engage within the stitch receiving channel in the shoe sole to cooperate with the presser foot in supporting .the work against the downward thrust of the awl and the loop drawing stroke of the needle.

As best shown in Figs. 5 and 11 to 14 inclusive, the work supporting devices include a stationary work-supporting member I00 located in advance of the needle inthe line of feed, that is, on that side of the needle remote from the completed stitches of the seam, and a work supporting and guiding member I02 which is supported in close proximity to and to the rear of the needle, or on that side of the needle toward the completed stitches of the seam, to move with the needle in the line of feed. The stationary work support I00 is carried on a U-shaped bracket I04 which is provided with two downwardly extending ears pivotally supported on studs I06, and with a laterally extending arm I08 journalled to receive a locking pin IIO supported in lugs H2 and H4 on the base 30. The movable work support and guide member I02 is rigidly secured to the movable frame 52 which carries the needle bar 50 and cast-off bar I0 as above described. The work supports I00 and I02 are tapered to fit snugly into the base of the stitch receiving channel, and have their tip portions arranged at substantially the same vertical level, so that a support is provided at alltimes for the work at both sides of the point 'ofoperation of the sewing mechanism. Inasmuch as the movable work support I02 moves horizontally with the'needle in the line of feed, the two work supporting members will be placed in close proximity to each other on opposite sides of the needle during each upward thrust thereof, so that the work is permitted to turn freely about a vertical axis to accommodate itself to the relatively sharp curves of the shoe sole during the transfer of the point of operation about the shoe.

The stationary work support I00 is constructed and arranged to engage against and support the needle in the line of feed during the upward thrust of the needle to prevent possible springing of the needle, which during its upward movement follows a slightly inclined path due to the fact that the needle and support therefor are mounted to swing about a stationary pivot in the machine base. The stationary work support I00 also serves as a channel opener and as a guide for the work during the feeding movement of the needle to the left, as shown, for instance, in Fig. 5. In order to prevent possible pinching or jamming of the loop held on the needle shank during the upward thrust thereof through the work, a notch H6 is formed in the side of the stationary work support I00. The provision of the notch IIB has been found of particular advantage to prevent a flattening out or pressing of the needle 100p against the needle shank which might otherwise interfere with the proper operation of the cast-off, in lifting the thread from the needle shank.

The movable work support I02 is provided with a vertically extending groove within which the needle slides, so that additional support is provided for the needle rearwardly in the line of feed, and also laterally thereof in both directions. As previously pointed'out, the movable work support located to the rear of the needle in the line of feed, cooperates with the stationary work support I00 to support the work at both sides of the needle, and thus to prevent the rocking movement of the work during the downward thrust of the awl, and also during the downward loop drawing stroke of the needle, which would otherwise. result in the production of irregular or defective work.

In accordance with another feature of the present invention, the movable work support I02 is constructed and arranged to operate as a thread guide to lay the needle loop forming the chain portion of the stitch along the base of the stitch receiving channel, and also to cause the two legs of the loop to be placed one above the other in the channel in parallel relationship, so that the channel may be subsequently closed, and the lip flattened down into substantially its original position to produce a smooth, finished appearing shoe sole.

As best shown in Figs. 17, and 18 of the drawings, the movable work support I02 is provided at its upper end with a flat, spatula-shaped portion II 8 which is located with relation to the needle so that both legs of the needle loop will be drawn down to the rearward or lip side of the work support. The support I02'is also provided with a loop receiving shoulder I20 which dered portion l20 operates further as the needle and work support are moved again into alignment with the awl, to cause the loop to be guided as far as possible into the channel in the work, so that during the subsequent upward stroke of the needle, the two legs of the loop still engaged and guided by the work support I02, will be brought snugly into the base of the channel.

In accordance with the present invention, a presser foot of novel and improved construction and having a novel mode of operation, is herein disclosed, which is particularly well adapted to provide an adequate clamping support for the Work, and also to insure the release of the work to permit the feeding thereof during the 'advancing movement of the needle. As shown, for instance in Figs. 13 and 15 the presser foot member 84 is provided with a downwardly extending nib I22 in the form of a ridge which fits into the groove formed by the shoulder at the edge of the sole in the line of feed immediately adjacent to and on that side of the needle remote from the completed stitches of the seam, so that the presser foot operates to assist in positioning and supporting the work transversely as well as vertically of the line of feed.

In accordance with another feature of the present invention, the presser foot is provided with a movable sector or plate I24 mounted to turn on a pivot I26 on the presser foot member 84, and provided with a downwardly extending nib I28 which is arranged to engage within the groove formed by the shoulder at the edge of the shoe sole in the line of feed immediately adjacent to and on that side of the needle toward the completed stitches of the seam. A small tension spring I30 connected at. one end of the sector H4 and at its other end to a pin I32 on the presser foot member, operates to maintain the sector and work engaging nib I28 in operating position determined by the engagement of a pin I3 on the sector with an adjacent portion of the presser foot member 84. With this construction and arrangement of the presser foot, a support is provided for the work upon both sides of and immediately adjacent the needle during the upward thrust of the needle through the work. When the presser foot is lifted and the needle is moved to the left to feed the work, the sector I24 will yield against the pressure of its spring I30, and is then permitted to move back into place before the presser foot is again returned to its work engaging position. A presser foot constructed and arranged as above de-- scribed, is of particular advantage in a machine of this general description, to insure the proper positioning and support for the work, particularly during the transfer of the point of operation about the sharply angled portions of the shoe.

In accordance withanother feature of the present invention, an actuating mechanism for the presser foot of novel and improved construction and mode of operation is employed, which is particularly well adapted for use in applicants machine in combination with the shoe supporting and feeding devices herein disclosed, to provide are-aces back feed and upward thrust movements of the needle, and at the same time operates to prevent the shoe from becoming impaled upon the tips of the work supporting members I00 and I02 extending into the stitch receiving channel, with' resultant injury to the work or the machine parts. As shown in Figs. 2, 4 and 6 of the drawings, the presser foot lock comprises a laterally extending locking pin I40 which is journalled in bearings I42 and I44 formed respectively in the overarm casing 34 and in a downwardly extending bracket I46. At one end the locking pin I40 is arranged to overlie a cooperating block I48 which is arranged to slide in a slot I50 formed in the overarm casing 34, and is supported to move with the presser foot bar 86 by means of a clamp I52 and a pin I53 which extends through an axial bore in the block I48. A compression spring I54 coiled about the pin between-a collar I56 on the pin and the bracket I46, tends normally to maintain the pin in an advanced position overlying the block I48. The locking pin I40 is moved rearwardly against the pressure of its spring I54 to permit the lifting of the presser foot lever during each feeding movement of the needle through connections which comprise a cam lever I58 pivoted at I60 on the bracket I46, and arranged at one end thereof for engagement with a pin I62 on the presser foot lifting lever 92, and at its other end for engagement with a disk I64 adjustably supported by locking nuts I66 to the outer. end of the pin I40. The upward movement of the presser foot lifting lever 92 to lift the presser foot causes the pin to engage with and swing the cam lever I58 about its pivot moving the disk I64 engaged thereby rearwardly,

so that the pin is moved positively out of the path of the block I48, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 6.

In accordance with one feature of the present invention, the presser foot lock is arranged to permit a slight upward yield of the presser foot from the clamping position during the upward thrust of the needle through the work, so that the work may be slightly dislodged from engagement with the work supporting members I00 and I02 prior to the feeding movement of the needle. To this end a gutter I68 is cut in the upper face of the block I48 for engagement with the locking pin I40. The forward or looking position of the pin-I40 is then adjusted by moving the disk I64, engaged by the lever I58, axially on the locking pin I40 to leave the requisite amount of clearance between the pin I40 and the contacting surface 58 of, the block I48 when the presser foot is in clamping engagement with the work. For convenience of assembly of the machine,-a corresponding gutter I10 is formed in the opposite side of the block I48, as best shown in Fig. '7, so thatthe block may be assembled interchangeably in alternate positions in the 1 machine.

In connection with the operation of the presser foot, it may be assumed that the presser foot lifting lever 92 is timed to operate in the usual manner to raise the presser foot during the feeding movement of the needle to advance the work, and thereafter to permit the presser foot again to be engaged against the work under the pressure of its spring 88. Aspreviously pointed out, with the present construction a relatively l=ght spring 88 is employed to maintain the presser foot in clamping engagement with the work. This spring is sufficiently strong, how ever, to maintain the shoe in its proper position during the loop drawing stroke of the needle and the subsequent movement of the needle and movable work support 102 to lay the new needle loop in the stitch receiving channel. The shoe is further supported at this time by the awl which has been advanced through the work as shown in Fig. 11. During the retracting movement of the awl and the follow=up stroke of the needle through the work, the presser foot is maintained continuously under a yielding downward pressure by the spring 88 which, however, is sufficiently light so that the upward movement of the needle will cause the work and presser foot engaging therewith to be lifted slightly against the positive stop provided by the engagement of the locking pin I40 against the inclined surface of the gutter I68 in the block I40 in order to free the work from the sharply tapered tips of the work supporting members I and I02 engaging within the stitch receiving channel of the shoe sole. At this time the shoe is firmly supported at both sides of the needle in the line of feed by the presser foot engaging surface I22, and also by the corresponding surface I28 formed on the movable sector I24, so that the shoe will be maintained in a stable position at the sewing point against the upward thrust of the needle, particularly during the operation about the sharply angled portions of the shoe sole where the contour of the sole edge is sharply angled away from either one or both sides of the sewing point. The presser foot is now raised by the operation of the presser foot lifting lever 92 as above described, and the needle is moved to the left as best shown in Fig. 14, to advance the work, the movable sector I24 being brushed aside and then returned to its normal operating position under the pressure of the spring I30 before the presser foot is again released and moved into clamping engagement with the work under the pressure of its spring 88.

The present machine is provided with the usual treadle operated presser foot lifting lever I12 as best'shown in Figs. 1 and 2, which is pivotally supported at I14 intermediate its length on the overarm 34, and is provided at its forward end with a laterally offset portion which is arranged to engage with the protruding end of the pin I53 on the bracket I52 secured to the presser foot bar as above described. With the present construction there is also provided on the forward end of the lever I12, a plate I10 which operates during the upward movement of the lever to engage with the cammed under surface of the lever arm I58 tomove the locking pin I40 out of the path of the block I48. At its rear end the lever I12 is connected by means of a downwardly extending treadle rod I18 to a foot treadle which may be of ordinary'construction, and is not here shown. A tension spring I80 connected at one end with the lever I12, and at its other end to a pin I82 on the machine frame,

tends normally to maintain the forward end of the lever in its low inoperative position.

In accordance with another feature of the present invention, a guard member I90 in the form of a curved plate is provided which covers the mechanism beneath the work including the needle and work supports, and is also arranged to serve as a rest or guide for the shoe sole to determine the angle at which the needle and awl pass through the work. The guard mem ber I90 takes the form of a curved plate as best shown in Figs. 5, and 1l to 14 inclusive, which is provided at its upper end with an open neck out about the pivot formed by the engagement of the upper end thereof with the stationary support I00.

In accordance with a principal feature of the invention, there is provided with the present construction, a shoe supporting horn which is constructedand arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point. The horn is arranged to exert a pressure on the sole transversely of the line of feed to press the sole firmly against the work supporting members I00 and I02, and also serves to maintain the sole portion of the shoe firmly in engagement with the guard I90 above described. As best shown in the drawings, the horn comprises a U-shaped member 200 having its work engaging tip curved rearwardly to extend within the shoe, and is pivotally mounted at 202 to a downwardly extending supporting arm 204, the pivot 202 being located to permit the horn to swing freely about an axis substantially normal to the surface of the shoe sole in the machine and passing through the sewing point, and thus to prevent bendingagainst the upper during the turning movements of the shoe. ,The supporting arm 204 forms part of a bracket 206 which is supported on a pivot pin 208 on a stationary bracket 2! secured to the overarm 34, so that the bracket 206 and horn 200 may be swung freely into and out of engagement with the work. A tension spring 2| 2 connected at one end to an upwardly extending portion. of the bracket 206 and at its other end to a pin carried on an extension 2I4 of the stationary bracket 2I0, operates to swing .the bracket 200 and horn 200 yieldingly into engagement with the work. In order to provide an adjustment of the spring tension, the pin has screw-threaded to its outer end an adjusting nut 2| 6. The horn is moved positively away from the shoe against the pressure .of its spring 2I2 during each stitch forming and feeding cycle to permit the feeding of the work by the needle, through connections which include a pear-shaped cam 2I8 which is rigidly secured to the upper portion of the swinging bracket 206, and is provided at its rear end with an offset portion having formed thereon a steeply inclined cam surface 220 arranged for engagement with a roll 222 carried on a laterally extending bracket 224 secured to the awl bar 18, so that the upward movement of the awl to its retracted position will operate to bring the roll 222 into engagement with the surface 220 to swing the horn positively away from the work.

With the present construction, mechanism is also provided which is rendered operative upon actuation of the treadle presser foot lifting lever I 12 for raising the presser foot simultaneously to move the horn away from the work to permit the removal of the shoe from the machine. This mechanism comprises a downwardly extending connection 226 which is secured at its upper end to the offset portion of the treadle presser foot lever H2, and carries a cam roll 228 which is arranged upon the actuation of the treadle and lever I12 to engage with the under surface of the pear-shaped cam 2m to swing the bracket 206 and horn 20!] away from the work.

In accordance with another feature of the pres-. ent invention, guard means are provided for engagement with the shoe upper at and immediately in advance of the sewing point, in order to position the upper solidly against the adjacent portion of the shoulder of the insole and away from the groove formed by the shoulder to prevent accidental punching during the downward movement of the awl. The guard means provided comprises a stationary guard member 230 and a movable guard member 232. The guard member 230 (as best shown in Figs. 2, 8 and 10), comprises a flat member which is rigidly secured to the stationary bracket 2 ill, and extends downwardly at an angle into engagement with the upper immediately adjacent the needle at the sewing point. The movable guard member 232 as best shown in Figs. 2 and 15, takes the form of a thin plate or bar which extends substantially in the line of feed and is attached at one end to anarm234 which forms part of the connection 226 secured to the treadle actuated presser foot lever ll'2 as above'described. The guard member 232 passes between the stationary guard member 230 and the presser foot, and at its free end is curved rearwardly and slightly under the presser foot, so that the downward movement of the presser foot into clamping engagement with the work, will cause the nib I22 to contact with the guard 232 to move the entire assembly including the guard member 232, arm 23 connection 226 and lever H2 about the pivot I14 against the pressure of the spring I80, thus causing the guard member 232 engaging the upper to stretch or smooth the upper away from the shoulder in position for operation thereon by the stitch forming devices. The subsequent lifting of the presser foot to permit the feed of the work, will then operate to permit a return movement of the guard member 232 rearwardly beneath the presser foot under the influence of the spring i8ll preparatory for again stretching the upper away from the shoulder as the presser foot is returned to clamping position, It will be noted from the drawings, particularly Figs. 15 and 16, that the movable presser foot member 232 engages also against the stationary guard 230, which therefore forms an additional support to insure the proper direction of movement of the movable guard member 232 when forced outwardly by the downward movement of the presser foot. The movable guard 232 constructed and arranged to operate as above described, operates to catch and position the upper and lining in advance of the feed, and also particularly during the operation about the shank portion of the shoe, to position the upper solidly against the shoulder of the insole and away from the groove formed by the shoulder to prevent accidental punching of the upper during the downward movement of the awl, and subsequent movement of the needle through the work.

In operation upon turn shoes or slippers, in which the lining has been attached to the upper prior to the assembly of the upper with the sole portion of the shoe for the stitching operation, the movable guard member 232 performs the additional function of moving loose portions of the lining out of the path of the sewing devices particularly during the operation upon that portion are-aces present machine comprises a clutch mechanism a friction of ordinary description including cone clutch generally indicated at 255 which is arranged to connect the driving pulley torotate the crank shaft 4% and hand wheel 2 32, and

' a braking mechanism including a friction shoe 244 which is rendered operative in stopping the machine to engage with the periphery of the hand wheel 262. These parts are-controlled in the usual manner from a foot treadle at the base of the machine, by means of a clutch lever M8 pivoted at 248 on the machine column connected at its free end to a downwardly extending treadle rod 249 and foot treadle (not shown). A heavy tension spring 25% connected at one end to the clutch lever 2% and at its other end to a point on the overarm 3t, operates normally to maintain the clutch lever in a raised inoperative position to disengage the clutch 24B and to apply the friction brake 24. Inasmuch as these parts as thus far described are identical with the usual starting and stopping mechanism for these machines well known in the art, no further description or illustration thereof is believed necessary.

In addition to these parts, the present applicant has provided a simple and efiicient means 2 which is rendered operative upon the release of the foot treadle and clutch lever 246 connected thereto in stopping the machine, to cause the hand wheel 242 and crank shaft 8% to be stopped in a predetermined angular position in which the .i

termediate its length upon a pivot 223 i, and is i provided at one end with a cam roll 256 which is arranged for engagement with one face of the hand wheel 242 including a recessed portion 253 thereof which has at the following end thereof a sharply angled cam surface 269. end the lever arm 252 is arranged for engagement with the clutch lever 246, so that the upward movement of the clutch lever when released un der the pressure of the spring 250 will operate to force the roll 256 under a heavy spring pressure against the face of the hand wheel 242 and into the recessed portion 258 thereof, and thus to provide a considerably increased resistance to the continued movement of Lhe rank shaft 44 and hand wheel 242-as the roll 256 rides against the cam surface 260. The resistance provided by the engagement of the spring-pressed lever 252 and roll 256 against the cam surface 260 is sufficient to prevent further rotation of the crank shaft, and thus insures the stopping of the machine in the desired position to permit the removal of the shoe.

While the machine disclosed in the drawings including the several cooperating instrumentalities described and having the mode of operation set forth, illustrates a preferred embodiment of the applicant's invention including the several novel features thereof, it will be understood that the invention in its broader aspects is not limited to the specific construction and arrangement of and At its other the several cooperating elements set forth, and that certain of the instrumentalities shown may be modified or omitted without rendering the machine inoperative, or causing any loss of function or advantage which may be obtained from combinations embracing a smaller number of parts as specifically set forth in the claims.

The invention having been described, what is claimed is:-

1. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a turn shoe while unsupported on a last, ,in which the sole is formed with a stitch receiving channel and a shouldered edge molded to form a groove opposite the base of said channel having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work and pass through the sole substance between the base of the groove and said channel comprising a work support to enter said stitch receiving channel, and a presser foot having a rib for engagement in the base of the groove in the line of feed.

2. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a turn shoe while unsupported on a last, in which the sole is formed with a stitch receiving channel and a shouldered edge molded to form a groove opposite the base of said channel having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work and pass through the sole substance between the base of the groove and said channel comprising a work support to enter said stitch receiving channel, a presser foot having a rib for engagement in the base of the groove in the line of feed, and a sole support to determine the angle of operation of the needle with relation to the shoe sole.

3. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a turn shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a straight needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a Work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, a presser foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, a sole support, and means for adjusting the position of said'sole support to adjust the angle of operation of the needle with relation to the shoe sole.

- 4. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a turn shoe while unsupported on a last, in

which the sole is formed with a stitch receiving channel and a shouldered edge molded to form a groove opposite the base of said channel, having in combination, stitch forming'devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in' position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work and pass through the sole substance between the base of the groove and said channel comprising a work support to enter said stitch receiving channel,

and a presser foot arranged to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, said presser foot having rib portions engaging the upper in the base of said groove at each side of the needle path in the line of feed.

5. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a turn shoe while unsupported on a last, in which the sole is formed with a stitch receiving channel and a shouldered edge molded to form a groove opposite the base of said channel; having,

in combination, stitch forming devices including gaging the upper in the base of the groove in theline of feed at that side of the needle path remote from the completed stitches of the seam, a

separate rib portion for engagement with the upper in the base of the groove at the other side of the needle path, and a' support for said separate rib portion arranged to permit movement thereof out of the path of the needle during said feeding movements.

6. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, a needle, an awl, means for actuating one of said parts to feed the work, devices cooperating with the needle to form a stitch, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole, a presser-foot arranged to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, said presser-foot comprising a fixed portion at one side of the needle and awl path, and a portion at the other side of the needle and ,awl path mounted to yield in the direction of feed during the feeding movement of the shoe.

'7. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, a needle, an awl, means for actuating one of said parts to feed the work, devices cooperating with the needle to form a stitch, devices arranged tosupport the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, a presser-foot arranged to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, said presser-foot comprising a fixed portion engaging the shoe in the line of feed at that side of the'needle and awl path remote from the completed stitches of the seam, a movable portion for engagement with the work in close proximity to the other side of the needle and awl path, and supporting means for said movable portion arranged to permit movement of said movable portion out of the path of movement of said needle or awl element during the feeding movement thereof.

8. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and emerge from the upper at the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter the stitch receiving channel and a presser-foot arranged to bear against the upperat the edge of the sole, and means for actuating the needle while through the work to feed the other side of the needle path mounted to yield in the direction of feed during the feeding movement of the needle.

9. A machine for sewing the upper tothe sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, means for actuating the needle while through the work to feed the work, changed to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and emerge from the upper at the same side of the work, comprising a work support to enter the stitch receiving channel, a presser-foot arranged to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, said presser-foot having a fixed portion for engagement with the shoe in the line of feed at that side of the needle path remote from the completed stitches of the seam, a movable portion for engagement with the shoe in the line of feed at' the other side of the needle path constructed to be engaged by and thereafter released'by the needleduring saidfeeding movement, and spring means for returning said movahle portion to operative position.

10. A machine for sewingthe upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, means for actuating the needle while through the work to feed the work, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needleto enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and emerge from the upper at the same side of the work, comprising a work support to enter the stitch receiving channel, a presser-foot arranged to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, said presser-foot having a fixed portion for engagement with the shoe in the line of feed at that side of the needle path remote from the completed stitches of the seam, a movable portion for engagement with the shoe in the line of feed at the other side of the needle path constructed to be engaged by and thereafter released by the needle during said. feeding movement, spring means for returning said movable portion to operative position, and means for raising the presser-foot during said feeding movement of the needle.

11. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in a position to cause the needle to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and emerge from the upper at the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter the stitch receiving channel and a presser-foot arranged to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, means for actuating the needle while through the work to feed the work, means for pressing the presser-foot' yieldingly against the work, a presser-foot locking "device arranged to permit the presser-foot to yield slightly during a Work piercing stroke of the needle, and means for actuating the locking device to release the presser-foot to permit the work to be fed by the needle.

12. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle, an awl, devices cooperating with the needle to form the stitch, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed 'in the sole, a presser foot arranged to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, means for actuating said needle and awl to cause one of said elements to enter the stitch receiving channel and pierce and feed the work, means for pressing the presser foot yieldingly against the work, a P155561 foot locking device arranged to permit the press-er foot to yield slightly during the work piercing stroke of the one of said elements the stitch receiving channel, and means for actuating he locking device to release the presser foot to permit the work to be fed by said elements.

13. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe-having, in combination, a needle, an awl, means for actuating one of said parts to feed the Work, devices cooperating with the needle to form a stitch, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the Work comprising a work support fixed in the direction of feed to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole at one side of the path of the needle and awl, and a work support mounted to move in the line of feed towards and from the fixed work support arranged to enter the stitch receiving channel at the other side of the path of the needle and awl, and means acting during each stitch forming and work feeding cycle of the machine to move the movable work support towards the fixed work piercing movement of the needle and awl.

14. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming andr work feeding devices including a needle, means for actuating the needle to feed the work, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support fixed in the direction of feed to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole at the side of the needle remote from the completed stitches of the seam, and a work support mounted to move with the needle in the line of feed towards and from the fixed work support arranged to enter the stitch receiving channel at the other side of the needle.

15. In a machine for sewing the upper to the Sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, means for actuating the needle to feed the work, devices arranged to support the work,

in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support fixed in the direction of feed to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole at the side of the needle remote from the cornpleted stitches of the seam and having a surface arranged to engage with and support the needle during its work piercing stroke and a Work support arranged to enter the stitch receiving chanincl at the other side of the needle and to move with the needle in the line of feed toward and from the fixed work support.

16. In a machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a'shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, means for actuating the needle to feed the Work, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support flxed'in the direction of feed to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole at the side of the needle remote from the completed stitches of the seam and having a surface arranged to engage with and support the needle during its work piercing stroke and a notched portion immediately adjacent the work engaging tip of the work support to receive that portion of the needle loop passing around the needle, and a work support arranged to enter the stitch receiving channel at the other side of the needle and to move with the needle in the line of feed toward and from the fixed work support.

17. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hooked needle, devices arranged to support; the work in position to cause the needle to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and emerge from the upper at the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter the stitch receiving channel between the needle path and the last formed stitch of a seam being sewn, said work support being provided with a surface arranged to engage both legs of the needle loop on the needle during the relative movement of the needle and work in the line of feed and guide the loop into a plane substantially parallel to the sole surface.

18. A chain stitch sho sewing machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hooked needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and emerge from the upper at the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter the stitch receiving channel between the needle path and the last formed stitch of a seam being sewn, said work support being provided with a surface arranged to force-the loop of thread on the needle towards the bottom of the channel during the relative movement of needle and work in the line of. feed.

19-. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hooked needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and emerge from the upper at the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter the stitch receiving channel between the needle pathand the last formed stitch of a seam being sewn, said work support being provided with surfaces arranged to guide. the legs of the needle loop into a plane substantially parallel to the surface of the sole and to force the loops towards the bottom of the channel.

20. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight h'ook needle, means for actuating the needle to feed the work, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and emerge from the upper at the same side of the work comprising a work support to' sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having,

in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle, means for actuating the needle to feed thework, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and emerge fromthe upper at the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter the stitch receiving channel between the needle path and the last formed stitch of aseam being sewn, said work support having the side thereof adjacent the channel lip cut away to provide a guiding surface substantially parallel to the sole surface and a shoulder adjacent thereto to engage with and guide the loop into a plane substantially parallel to the sole surface and to force the loop toward the bottom of the channel during the back feed of the needle.

. 22. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle, means for actuating the needle while through the work to feed the work, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and emerge from the upper at the same side of the work, comprising a stationary work support to enter the stitch receiving channel at the side of the needle path remote from the completed stitches of the seam, and a work support mounted to move with the needle in the line of feed toward and from the stationary work support, said movable support being arranged to enter the stitch receiving channel at the other side of the needle and being provided with a surface arranged to. engage both legs of the needle loop during the back feed of the needle and movable work support to guide the loop into a plane substantially parallel to the sole surface.

23. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a straight needle, devices arranged to support the work directly against the thrust and withdrawing stroke of the needle in a position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work, and a horn extending within the shoe arranged to bear against the inner surface of the sole adjacent the edge thereof at the sewing point, and thereby to cooperate with the work supporting devices to position the shoe laterally in the path of needle movement.

24. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming and workyfeeding devices including a straight needle, devices arranged to support the work directly against the thrust and withdrawing stroke of the needle in a position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work, a horn extending within the shoe arranged to bear against the inner surface of the sole adjacent the edge thereof at the sewing point, and thereby to cooperate with the work supporting devices to position the shoe laterally in the path of needle movement, and means for actuating the horn to relieve the pressure of the horn'on the sole during a portion of each stitch forming and work feeding cycle of the machine.

25. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, a presser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, and a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point.

26. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, a presser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point, and means for actuating the presserfoot and horn to relieve the pressure of the presser foot and horn on the shoe during each stitch forming and work feeding cycle of the machine.

27. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a work piercing awl, a straight needle movable to feed the work, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, a presser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, a horn arranged to. extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point, and means controlled by the retracting movement of the awl to relieve the pressure of the horn on the sole, and by the work piercing movement of the awl to re-engage the horn with the work.

28. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a work piercing awl, a straight needle movable to feed the work, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, a presser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point, and means controlled from the awl motion for actuating the horn to relieve the pressure of the horn on the sole during each stitch forming and work feeding cycle of the machine.

29. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a work piercing awl, a straight needle movable to feed the work, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, a presser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point, and cooperating cam and follower elements associated with the horn and awl bar rendered operative by the movement of the awl to its retracted position to move the horn away from the work.

30. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a straight needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, and a presser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point, and means for supporting the horn to swing about an axis substantially normal to the surface of the'shoe sole in the machine and passing through the sewing point.

31. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a straight needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, and a presser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point, means for raising the presscr-foot from the work at the completion of the seam, and a connection from said presser-foot lifting means for moving the horn away from the shoe sole.

32. A machine for sewing'the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a straight needle, devices arranged to support the work in a position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, and a presser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point, a treadle actuated lever, and suitable connections for lifting the presser-foot from the work at the completion of the seam, and a connection from said lever to the horn for moving the horn away from the shoe.

33. A machine for sewing-the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight needle, devices arranged to support the work in a position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole and a prcsser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, and an upper guard arranged to bear against the upper in advance of the sewing point and force the upper away from the path of the needle.

34. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight needle, devices arranged to support the work in a position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, and a. presser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, means for lifting the presser-foot during each stitch forming and work feeding cycle, an upper guard arranged to bear against the upper in advance of the sewing point, and means for moving the guard to force the upper against and loose portions thereof away from the sole edge prior to each movement of the I presser-foot into clamping engagement with the upper.

35. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in

to bear against the upper in advance of the sewing point, and means for moving said latter guard to force the upper against and'loose portions thereof away from the sole edge prior to the clamping engagement of the presser-foot with the upper.

36. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight needle, devices arranged to support the work in a position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, and a presser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, means for lifting the presser-foot during each stitch forming and work feeding cycle, a movable upper guard member arranged to extend against and beneath the presser-foot and to be forced away from the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in

combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight needle, devices arranged to support the work in a position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, and a presser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, means for lifting the presser-foot during each stitch forming and work feeding cycle, a treadle actuated presser foot lifting lever, spring means for moving the forward end of the treadle actuated lever downwardly, and a movable upper guard member secured to the treadle actuated lever and arranged to extend against and beneath the presser-foot and to be forced away from the sole edge by the movement of the presser-foot into engagement with the work against the pressure of said spring means.

38. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight needle, devices arranged to support the work in a position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, and a presser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, means for lifting the presser-foot during each stitch forming and work feeding cycle, a stationary upper guard arranged to bear against the upper substantially at the sewing point,,and a movable upper guard arranged to be supported against said stationary guard, and to bear against the upper beneath the presser-foot in advance of the sewing point to be forced away from the sole edge by the movement of the presser-foot upon movement thereof into clamping engagement with the work.

39. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while, unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight needle, devices arranged to support'the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the said side of the work comprising a work support to enter a stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, and a p esser-foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, and an upper guard having an upper engaging surface engaging against the upper substantially opposite the sew-' ing point and extending across the line of feed in advance of the sewing point to force the upper against and loose portions thereof away from the path of the needle.

40. In a machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight needle, means for actuating the needle to feed the work, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support fixed in the direction of feed to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole at the side of the needle remote from the completed stitches of the seam, and a work support mounted to move with the needle in the line of feed towards and from the fixed work support arranged to enter the stitch receiving channel at the other side of the needle, said movable work support having formed therein a needle guiding and supporting groove.

41. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and. work feeding devices including a straight hook needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and emerge from the upper at the same side of the sole comprising a work support to enter the stitch receiving channel between the needle path and the last formed stitch of a seam being sewn, and movable with the needle in the line of feed, said work support being provided with surfaces arranged to guide the legs of the needle loop into a plane substantially parallel to the surface of the sole and to force the loops tWards the bottom of the channel and being further provided on the side thereof adjacent the needle With a needle guiding and supporting groove.

42. A machine for sewing an upper to the sole of a turn shoe in which the sole is formed with a stitch receiving channel and a shouldered edge against which the upper is located shaped to form a groove opposite the base of the channel having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter the stitch receiving channel in the sole and emerge fromthe upper through said shouldered edge comprising a work support to enter the stitch receiving channel, and a presser foot having a rib portion to engage in the base of the groove in the line of feed, means for actuating the needle while through the work to feed the work; means for pressing the presser foot yieldingly against the work, a presser foot lockng device arranged to permit the presser foot and work engaged thereby to move slightly away from the work support during a work piercing stroke of the needle, and means for actuating the locking device to release the presser foot to permit the work to be .fed by the needle.

43. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole work support mountedto move in the line of feed toward and from the'fixed work support arranged to enter the stitch receiving channel at the other side of the path of the needle and awl,

means acting during each stitch forming and work feeding'cycle of the machine to move the movable work support toward the fixed work support to support the work during the work piercing movement of the needle and awl, a presser foot arranged to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, said presser foot comprising a fixed portion engaging the shoe in the line of feed at that side of the needle in the path remote from the completed stitches of the seam, a movable portion for engagement with the work in close proximity to the side of the needle and awl path, and supporting means for said movable portion arranged to permit movement of said movable portion out of the path of said needle and awl element during the feeding movement thereof.

44. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a turn shoe while unsupported on a last, in which the sole is formed with a stitch receiving channel and a shouldered edge shaped to form a groove opposite the base of said channel having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of'the work and pass through the sole substance substantially in a vertical plane between the base of the groove and said channel comprising a work support arranged to extend upwardly into said stitch receiving channel, a presser foot having a rib'portion to engage in the base of the groove in the line of feed, and a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear laterally againstthe inner surface of the sole at the sewing point.

45. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a turn shoe, while unsupported on a last, in which the sole is formed with a stitch receiving channel and a shouldered edge shaped to form a groove oppcmite the base of said channel having,

in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work and pass through the sole substance substantially in a vertical plane between the base of the groove and said channel comprising a work support arranged to extend upwardly into said stitch receiving channel, a presser foot having a rib portion to engage in the base of the groove in the line of feed, a sole support arranged to provide additional contact with the sole below the work support to determine the angle of operation of the needle with relation to the shoe sole, and a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear laterally against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point.

46. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a turn shoe while unsupported on a last, in which the sole is formed with a stitch receiving channel and a shouldered edge shaped to form a groove opposite the base of said channel having, incombination, stitch forming devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work and pass through the sole substance substantially in a vertical plane between the base of the groove and said channel comprising a work support arranged to extend upwardly into said stitch receiving channel, a Dresser foot having a rib portion to engage in the base of the groove in the line of feed, a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear laterally again t the inner surface of the sole at ans-2,966

the sewing point, a support on which the horn is mounted to swing about an axis substantially normal to the surface of the shoe sole in the machine and passing through the sewing point, and a pivotal mounting on which said support and horn are arranged to swing toward and away from the shoe sole on an axis extending substantially parallel to the direction of feed.

47. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a turn shoe while unsupported on a last, in which the sole is formed with ,a stitch receiving channel and a shouldered edge shaped to form a groove opposite the base of said channel having, in combination, a stitch forming and work feeding devices including a work piercing awl, a needle movable to feed the work, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work and pass through the sole substance substantially in a vertical plane between the base of the groove and said channel comprising a work support arranged to extend upwardly into said stitch receiving channel, a presser foot shaped to engage in the base of the groove in the line of feed, a horn arranged to extend within the sole and bear laterally against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point, and means controlled from the awl motion for actuating the horn to relieve the pressure of the horn on the sole during each stitch forming and work feeding cycle of the machine.

48. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in

combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the ,work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work, a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point, a-support on which the horn is arranged to swing about an axis substantially normal to the surface of the shoe sole in the machine and passing through the sewing point, and a pivotal mounting for said support having its axis substantially parallel to the line of feed and located to produce a relieving movement of the sole engaging portion of the horn at an acute angle to the sole and away from the edge thereof.

49. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work,

a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point, a support on which the horn is arranged to swing about an axis substantially normal to the surface of the shoe sole in the machine and passing through the sewing point, a pivotal mounting for said support having its axis substantially parallel to the line of feed and located to produce a relieving movement of the sole engaging portion of the horn at an acute angle to the sole and away from the edge thereof, and means for actuating said support to relieve the pressure of the horn on the sole during each stitch forming and work feeding cycle of the machine.

50. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe while unsupported on a last having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work, a horn arranged to extend within the shoe and bear against the inner suriace oi the sole at the sewing point, a support for the horn, a pivotal mounting for said support having its axis iocated to produce a relieving movement of'the sole en- 5 gaging portion of the horn at an acute angle to the sole and away from the edge thereof, and means for actuating said support to relieve the pressure of the horn on the sole during each stitch forming and work feeding cycle of the machine.

51. In a machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a turn shoe in which the sole is formed with a stitch receiving channel and a shouldered edge to which the upper is temporarily secured, the comiiination of stitch forming and work feed- 15 ing devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter the stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, and

a presser foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, means for lifting the presser foot during each stitch forming and work feeding cycle, an upper guard arranged to bear against the upper substantially opposite and in advance 25 of the sewing point, and means for moving the guard away from the presser foot and away from the point of temporary attachment of the upper to the sole to force the upper against and loose portions thereof away from the sole edge prior to each movement of the presser foot into clamping engagement with the upper.

52. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a turn shoe in which the sole is formed with a stitch receiving channel and a shouldered edge to which the upper is temporarily secured, the combination of stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work comprising a work support to enter the stitch receiving channel formed in the sole, and a presser foot to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, means for lifting the presser foot during each stitch forming and work feeding cycle, an upper guard arranged to bear against the upper on that side of the sewing point away from the sole edge and in advance of the sewing point, and

means for moving the guard away from the presser foot and away from the point of temporary attachment of the upper to the sole to force the upper against and loose portions thereof away from the sole edge prior to movement of the presser foot into clamping engagement with the upper.

EDWARD QUINN.