US273626A - Pattern-chart for cutting out shirts - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.)

J. SNOW.

PATTERN CHART ToR CUTTING OUT SHIRTS. No. 273,626.

Patented Mar.6,1883.

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UNITE STATES ATENT OFFICE.

JAMES SNOV, OF COLUMBUS, OHIO.

.PATTERN=CHART FOR CUTTING O UT SHIRTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 273,626, dated March 6, 1883. Application filed August 28, 1882. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, JAMES SNOW, of Columbus, in the county of Franklin and State of Ohio, have invented certain new and useful Improvementsin Patterns orOharts forOuttin g Out Shirts; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it pertains to make and use it, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which form part of this specification.

My invention relates to an improvement in patterns or charts for cutting out shirts; and it consists in the peculiar shape of the pattern or chart having scales marked thereon, Whereby a person is enabled to draft, cut, and fit curved-yoked shirts, as will be more fully described hereinafter.

The object of my invention is to provide a chart or pattern by means of which a person having no skill in the art of cutting shirts can readily make and fit them without any further instructions than are given with the chart.

Figures 1 and 2 represent different sides of the chart.

The holes numbered 13 to 23 on right-hand side of Fig. 1 are used for the shoulder-measure of the shirt. The numbers on the scales throughout correspond to the number ofinches in the measure. The four rows of holes in the lower part of Fig. 1, numbered 24 to 41, are used for the breast-measure of the shirt, and also the scye of the armhole in the shirt. The point A marks the exact distance between the back and front in drafting the shirt for cutting. The curve No. 2 is used for cutting the back of the neck of the shirt. The curve No.3 is used for cutting the back of the shirt. The curve No. 4 is used for cutting the arm- The line No. 5 is used for cutting a spring under the armhole front and back. The double curve No. 6 is used for cutting the front of the shirt. The curve No. 7 is used for cutting the front of the neck of the shirt. The holes Nos. 24 to 30, both inclusive, in the lower part of Fig. 1, are used for cutting youths and boys sizes of shirts. The numbers are the same for each row of holes, but one row or another may be used according as a large or small s1zed armhole is wanted in the shirt, the

right-hand rows making the smaller and the left-hand rows the larger armholes.

The following measurements are to be taken: first, shoulder-measure across the back; second, shoulder-measure across the front; third, chest-measure; fourth, sleeve-measure, with arm bent, from center or back; fifth, wristband-measure; sixth, neck-measure; seventh, length of bosom and shirt.

The chart is used as follows: The goods to be out are placed on the cutting-table with the goods for the fronts of the shirts on top of the goods designed for the backs, with the upper edges of all the goods even and the right-hand edge of the goods for thefront's far enough to the left of the right-hand edge of the goods for the. backs to allow the curve No. 2 to be drawn upon the goods for the backs, as hereinafter directed. The backs and fronts of any number of shirts up to six are out at the same time. The chart is then placed upon the goods with the side N0. 1 even with the upper edge of the goods, and the curve No. 2 wholly upon the goods designed for the backs. The curves Nos. 2 and 3 are then drawn on the goods for the backs down to the point opposite the num ber of inches in the shoulder-measure of the shirt to be cut. This makes the back of the neck and back of the shirt. Then through the holes in the lower part of Fig. 1, numbered 24 to 41, at the number designating the number of inches in the breast-measure mark upon the goods the point for the breast measure. Then the chart is pushed up until the point of meeting of Nos. 3 and 4 touches the end of the line first drawn and the corner formed by the meeting of Nos. 4 and 5 rests on the-goods, so that a line drawn along the curve 4, if extended, will strike the point marked for the breastmeasure. The curve No. 4 is then drawn, extending the line to the point marked for the breast-measure, and thus gives the armhole. Then the point A is marked on the goods for the fronts, giving the exact distance between the back and front of the shirt. Then the chart-model is drawn back again until the point of intersection of the curves Nos. 4 and 5 rests on the point marking the breast-measure, with No. 1 parallel with the upper edge of the goods; and line 5 is marked on the goods, giving the spring under the arm. This spring allows any motion of the arm without disturbing the fit of the shirt or disarranging it in any way. Then the chart-model is turned over, as shown in Fig. 2, and laid upon the goods with No. 1 even with the upper edge of the goods,

and No. 6 just touching the point A, as marked on the goods. Then the curve 7 and the double-curved line No. 6 are drawn through this point A, as marked on the goods for the fron ts, and this gives the front of the neck and the front of the shirt, making the shirt fit perfectly in front at the neckband without wrinkles,

and with the neckband standing perfectly straight. Then cutting the goods upon these lines, nothing remains to be done but sew up the seams and the shirt is complete. The back and yoke of the shirt are in one piece and cut at the same time.

By using this chart there is a saving of labor in the making of the shirt and a saving of time in the drafting and fitting of the same. A

superiority of fit about the neck and shoulders is obtained, as well as a freedom of movement in the arms; the shirt fits closely in front of the neckband without wrinkles, and the neckband stands perfectly straight; a shirt can be made to fit any form however out of the common or of any size; a combined yoke and shirt in one piece is made, and any width of shoul-

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