US2584577A - Garment - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 5, 1952 R o, GRANERT 2,584,577

GARMENT Filed May 28, 1949 5 Sheets-Sheet l R. O. GRANERT Feb. 5, 1952 GARMENT 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed May 28, 1949 do?? /ef 0. Granen:

Feb. 5, 1952 R. o. GRANERT 2,584,577

GARMENT Filed May 28, 1949 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 for the left side of a mans suit coat;

Patented F eb. 5, 11952 UNITED STATES i4Erf-@awr oFF-lcs Thel present invention relates, generally, to new andv useful improvements in coat garment construction, andrelates particularly to a. novel pocket.' formation in coat garments formed vin a plurality of panels or sections joined together at the-edges;

The invention is particularly useful in connection with menssuit coats, lbut may also be used in connection with womens and boys suit coats, overcoats, and in factvr coat garments, generally.r

An important obj'ectfof' the invention is the provision of anew and improved coat garment constructionv wherein the coatgarment is fabricated or made up from a plurality' of relatively narrow panels cut according t'o pattern so as to give' the desiredk form and'iit when joined together, and wherein the coat garment has at least one side pocket located in one of the panels which is intermediate between two other panels, the pocket opening extending-across theinte-rmediate panel so that the ends ofthe pocket opening terminate at' the opposite edges of the middle panel.

An important object of the invention isthe provisionV of a novel method of making. a pocket in apanel which is to be joined with other pane els inthe making of a coat garment.

Still' another important object ofthe invention visv the provision of anovel type of' coat garment constructiom particularly mens and boys suit coats, said novel type construction-.permitting the coat vgarments to be produced at' reduced cost due to reduction in Waste material, ease and increased rate of fabrication by workmen not having the skill required by present methods, with the production of a superior garment with respect to appearance, form and flt,.s and permanency of shape.

Certainl other objects of the invention will, in part,` be obvious andwill, in part,` appear-here.- inafter.

For a more' complete understanding of theV nature and scope of the invention, reference may be had to the following detailed description thereof taken` in connection with the accompanyingdrawings', wherein:

Fig. 1 is a plan viewof the left front panel Fig. 2' is a plan View of anl intermediate panel which is to be attached to the panel in Fig. 1;

Fig.. 3 isa View of still another panel which islto beattached to the panel shownin Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a view offa pocket piece' which is'to be. used` in` making a side pocket in the panel 4shown inFigZ; l Y

aolaims. (Chagas.)

Figs. 5" through:- lliiare perspective' views:` illustratings the several. steps involvedin'; making: a pocketzin. the panel shown.. in Fig.v 2 inaccordance with the method of .the present invention; and:

Fig;.12 isa view showing the three panelsin Figs. 1,.,2.` and 3 joined together alongthe'vvertical edges'so as to. form the left `side ofa manfs suit.coat. v

Heretofore, coat garments..A such as mens suit coats, havebeen formed' in amore or lessstandardize'dy ory conventional. mannerl which. is .fairly universal in the garment trade. Briey; each side of aV coat. garment. is now formedfof a single piece Lof. material which-extendsfrom the front edge of the coat around tothe back. The back of the` coat may be formed ofa single pieceewhich joins -together the two sides, but, generally; the back is formedin. two pieces. The' sides ofthe coat and the back pieces or panels are all joined together along the .corresponding edges thereof as'canbereadily seen by inspection.

In the prior methods of making coat garments, the` Sider; pockets are formed,` in known manner, in one or both of the coat side pieces. Considerable. skill isinvolved in forming the pockets so that they come out properly, will not give away at-the edges in use, and will not have unsightly gathering or ruiiies along the edges of the openmg.

Furthermore; whenv the sidewof. a: coat. garment is formed of a single piece asfisthecur rent, practice, it.V is diicult toi-mpartinto the garment proper shape.v and form. Thus, a flat piece of material isstarted with and'it is neces'- sary to come-out withl a formed shape orL piece of material. Atthe presenttime, such form and shape are obtained by resorting to the use of so.- called darts.steam pressing on forms so asto dise tort the. material from` its normal condition, pad.- ding, etc. Considerable skill is involved in such forming operations and the quality of the job depends greatly on the quality of thematerial used, the skill and time taken to perform ,the forming operations, all of these factors contributingV materially to the cost of the garment;

.Accordingl tov my present invention, I' have provided a novel type of coat constructionv which permits a superior or high qualityY garment'to be produced, using any desired coat material evenr thoughv considered' normally very difficult tovv work with, andusing workmen who are-relav tively unskilled, but who, by reason of the-simv plicity of the formingl operations-, are abley to turn-out av superiorgarmentat production rates in excess to those now obtained using highly skilled operators and tailors.

The garments made in accordance with the present invention t much better than garments made according to conventional methods, the material is not stressed or deformed to anywhere near the present degree, and the garments retain their shape much better during a longer life, and less frequent pressing is required. One of the important details which accounts for the easier construction at lower cost of garments made in accordance with the present invention, is the side pocket construction which may be adopted with a high degree of uniformity and quality even by relatively unskilled operators, whereas, previously, such pocket formation called for some of the highest skill involved in the garment-making operations, and even then, was at best a slow and time-taking operation.

In order that the nature and details of the present invention may be more fully described, reference may now be had to the following description wherein reference is made to the several gures of the drawings.

Referring rst to Figs. 1, 2 and 3, relatively narrow panels, 5, 'E and 1 are shown which are out out from a suitable piece of garment material following panel patterns established for the particular size and style of coat garment being produced. It will be noted that the panelk 5 serves as the frontmost panel of the left-hand side of the coat to be formed, the panel 6 constitutes the intermediate panel for the left side of the coat, and the relatively narrow panel 'I constitutes the back or rear panel of thelefthand side of the coat.

In order that the panels 5, 6 and 'I may be properly and accurately joined together, as will be more fully described hereinafter, it will be noted that each of the edges to be joined bears several index markings which are correspond-'- ingly spaced. These markings are readily made when the panels are cut out by following the marking notches formed in the respective patterns.

The markings designated as p-p in panel 6 serve as the guide marks for forming a pocket in this panel according to the technique which will now be described in connection with Figs. 5 through 11. I

The rst operation in forming a side pocket in the intermediate panel S is the marking off of graduation marks a, b, c, and d on opposite sides of the pocket marks p, as shown in Fig.

2. A suitable dimension for the spacing between each of the marks a, b, p, c and d is of an inch. However, it is to be understood that this dimension is mentioned for purpose of illustration and that other dimensions for the spacing of the guide marks'may be used, as desired.

The pocket in the panel 6 is formed from a pocket piece 8, shown in Fig. 4. The piece 3 is rectangular in conguration and is formed of a suitable pocket lining material such as rayon, silk, nylon, or other desired material. A fabric material known as silesia is normally used for the pocket piece 8. End pieces or facings IB and II are sewed at opposite ends of v the pocket piece 8, the pieces I0 and II being normally formed of the same fabric material as that from which the coat panels 5, 6 and I are cut out. such as a stripe which runs vertically in the` If the material has a pattern,

finished garment, the facings I0 and II are cut so that the strips extend horizontally.

After the pocket piece 8 has been formed and the panel 6 marked on opposite sides of the pocket marks p, as described, the rst operation in forming the pocket is shown in Fig. 5. In this step, the panel 6 is laid.down flat in the position shown and the pocket piece 8 is laid thereover with the bottom facing II folded upon itself and with the fold I2 being aligned with the marks d-d. The three thicknesses of material are now stitched together or piped along line c-c, this seam being indicated in Fig. 5 by the broken line I3.

In the next operation, which is shown in Fig. '6, the pocket piece 8 is turned down as shown and the upper end of the end piece II is folded back on'itself, as shown, so that the fold line i4 is aligned with the graduation marks a--a. The three thicknesses of material are now stitched or piped along line b-b, this piping seam being indicated by the broken line I5.

The next operation is shown in connection with Fig. '7 and involves completely cutting across the panel 6 along pocket line p-p and at the same time cutting through the one thickness of the end piece II lying between seams I3 and I5. After this cutting or severing operation the folds I2 and I4 are turned out or over, as shown, in Fig. 8, so that the folds I2 and I4 are opposed. The pocket piece 8 is then turned back under`upon itself so that the facing I comes up under the several thicknesses of material at the fold I4, in the manner shown in Fig. 9. The facing I0 is now stitched through one or more of the underlying thicknesses of the portion of the end piece II which has been left at the fold I4.

Having completed these operations, the next operation is to place the two fold lines I2 and I4 together as shown in Fig. 10 making sure that the side edges of the panel 6 are aligned and having the panel 6 look just the same as it did initially, except for the presence of the piping and folds I2 andV I4. It will be noted that no change is made in the overall length of the panel 6 as a result of the pocket forming operation. Basting stitches may be used to maintain the piping folds I2 and I4 joined together in aligned relationship as shown in Fig. l0. It is 'also desirable to attach the opposed piping folds I2 and Irl together at opposite ends of the pocket as indicated by the stitching marks IS-I3. In the next operation the lower portion of the panel 6 which extends below the fold I4 is turned up out-of-the-way as shown in Fig. ll and the pocket is closed at the sides by sewing along the broken line designated at I5. In one construction, the tacking stitches IQ--IS may be located approximately 1/4. of an inch in from the outer edge and the pocket stitching line I6 may start at the top of the pocket inwardly about 1/2 of an inch from the outer edges and then flare out so as to come within 1/4 of an inch of the sides of the pocket seam 8. It will of course be understood that these particular dimensions are given by way of illustration and are not critical.

With the completion of the stitching of the line I6, the formation of the pocket in the panel 5 is completed. In the next operation, any material of the pocket piece l8 which extends beyond the side edges of the panel 6 are trimmed oi and then just below the fold line I2 the under thicknesses of the facing material II is notched inwardly approximately to the stitching Vline I6 5 so that these-under thicknesses at this edge may be turned in out-of-the-way when the panel 6 is joined to the other panels 5 and l.

In joining together the panels 5, 5 and l, the corresponding index marks are aligned and the edges of the material are turned in so that the panels may be joined together from the back side with only a seam line showing from the outside. That is the conventional manner of joining together coat panels or similar pieces of material.

t will be noted that the edges of the panel pieces 6 and 7 are not straight, but rather are somewhat irregular. When the panels are joined, this configuration serves to give the desired form or lt to the side of the garment formed by these panels when they are joined together. Dart lines and similar formingoperations are thus eliminated.

The completed left side of the coat is shown in Fig. 12. It will be noted that the side pocket is disposed entirely within the panel E and that the opening of the pocket formed by the fold lines l2 and I4 extends clear across this panel.

It will be noted that the pocket thus formed in the panel 6 and left-hand side of the coat garment involves sewing only along straight lines, and not on a bias, and cutting along straight lines with clear guide marks. Such operations can` be accurately and quickly carried out by operators having only a small amount of training who are far from being skilled tailors.

It will be understood that the right-hand side of the garment may be formed in a similar mam ner using three panels corresponding to panels 5, 6 and 1 4but reversely shaped. Similarly, an-v other side pocket will normally be formed in the right-hand side of the coat garment. This pocket may have a cash pocket in it if it is desired. After the two sides of the coat garment have been thus formed, they may be joined with the back panel or panels so as to complete they forming of the garment except for the addition of the sleeves which may be added on in known manner.

It will be understood that the pocket in the panel 6 may be formed in accordance with other procedures, also, it will be appreciated that different styles of pockets may be formed, such for example as a pocket having a flap which covers the pocket opening. However, the essential feature is to have the pocket opening extend across the full width of the intermediate panel 6.

It will also be understood that more than three panels may be used in forming the side of a coat. should be formed in one of the intermediate panels.

Since certain further changes may be made in the foregoing construction and different embodiments of the invention may be made without departing from the spirit and scope thereof, all matter described above or shown in the accom- However, in any case the side pocket i panying drawings is intended to be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

I claim:

l. In the method of making a coat garment formed by a plurality of panels joined together at the edges, the improvement which comprises, cutting out at least three panels which are to be joined together along the side edges with one of said panels adapted to be disposed intermediate two others, folding one end of a pocket piece along a fold line which extends at a right angle to the length of said pocket piece, disposing said folded end on said intermediate panel in such a way that said fold line extends parallel to a line on said intermediate panel coinciding with the pocket opening to be formed therein with said fold line being disposed below said pocket opening line a distance a: and with the main length of said pocket piece being uppermost and extending upwardly from said pocket line, stitching said fold to said panel along a line intermediate said pocket line and said fold line and parallel thereto, folding the free end of said pocket piece adjacent said fold upon itself so as to form a second fold line disposed above said pocket line a distance of approximately a; with said second fold line being parallel to said pocket line and with the said free end of said pocket piece being uppermost, stitching said second fold to said intermediate panel along a line intermediate said second fold line and said pocket line and parallel thereto, completely severing said intermediate panel and the single thickness of said pocket piece which lies thereover along said pocket line, turning said rst and second fold lines toward each other, securing the free end of said pocket piece opposite said folded end to said intermediate panel material adjacent said second fold line thereby folding said pocket piece upon itself along a line crosswise to the length thereof and approximately midway between the ends thereof, securing said first and second fold lines in even opposed registering alignment, and stitching the folded pocket piece along the open sides thereof so as to close said pocket, said distance :r being only a small fraction of the Width of said intermediate panel at said pocket line.

2. The improvement called for in claim 1 wherein each of said lines of stitching is located a distance of approximately one-half :c from said pocket line.

ROBERT O. GRANERT.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the le of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,137,085 Hirschfeld Nov. 15, 1938 2,432,378 Burton Dec. 9, 1947

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