US2488105A - Brassiere - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 15, 1949 R. S. WEIL BRASSIERE 2 Shets-Sheet 1 Filed Nov. 29, 1947 rF INVENTOR Fay f/Mo/v Wf/L ATTORNEY R. S. WEIL BRASSIERE Nov. 15, 1949 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Nov. 29, 1947 gran 21:5 .wm

Y which 7 the upper short edges 23 between Patented Nov. 15, 1949 2,488,105 BRAssIsRE Rose Simon Weil, New York, N. Y. Application November 29, 1947, Serial No. 788,889

This invention relates to brassieres and particularly to a brassiere adapted to be specially fitted to the particular form of the individual wearer.

-The object of the invention is to provide a brassire having simple, adjustable means for determining the shaping, supporting and relative positioning of the bust in naturally attractive manner.

- Further objects of the invention particularly in the structure of the parts of the brassiere and the formation of the cup portions will appear from the following specification taken in connection with the accompanying drawing in Fig. 1 is aview showing a brassire illustrating the invention;

Fig. 2 is a plan view tion of the brassiere.

Fig. 3 is a view of a strip detail for insertion along the inner lower edges of the cups;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary face view of a modification; and

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary rear view of a further modification.

Referring to the drawings, the brassiere shown of a blank'for a cup porpomprises a series of parts including end pieces ||l, fro nt pieces I! and cup portions l2. The end pieces I carry the fastening means [4 which may be of any desired type, such as hooks and eyelets. Darts l may be formed to fit the end pieces to the wearer and elastic inserts may be provided as indicated at !6 and H.

The front pieces I! have edges l9 attached to the edges 20 of theend pieces alon a length dependent on the vertical length of the brassiere. The form shown is of medium length and is made in shorter lengths, or longer if desired, or may comprise merely the cup formations fastened together and to end strips extending around the back. The seam 2| joins the front pieces at the center, extending from the lower edges 22 to the cup portions l2. 1

The cups |2 have edges 25 which are joined to the upper inclined edges of front pieces II, and side edges 26 joined to edges 20 of the end pieces I0. The inner upper edges 21 of the cups spread upward to meet the outer edges 28 at points 29. Shoulder straps 30 will preferably be attached in front at junctions 29 and in the back at suitable points 3| on the upper edges 32 of the end pieces.

The cup portions l2 are specially formed (Fig. 2) to give a shapely pocket and firm support for the bust. The fabric blank AU-having straight 9 Claims.

grain as indicated is formed at the center portion with small darts 4| which take out fullness and help form the cupping at 42. The lower inner corner 43 is folded or cut as shown along the vertical grain at 46 and along the bias at central portion 45 Which is swung down clockwise (Fig. 2) with its grain at a bias to the vertical forming the dart 44. The rain of the portion is thus brought into bias running diagonally with respect to the grain of the cup material extending over the top from edge 25 toedge 26 with resulting cupping effect. Dart It! further shapes the cup at the portion adjacent edge 26.

A roomy and naturally formed pocket is thus provided by each cup portion l2 giving a firm support and maintaining its shape. The cup is securely held along edges 25 and 26 and by the shoulder strap 39 at the top points 29.

superposed on this shaping and setting of the cup ortions of the brassiere, adjustment is provided by tension strips along the lower inner edges 25 of the cups. This adjustable tensioning may be attained in any desired manner. In

the brassiere shown a band portion 5| is sewn in place next to the line' of the seam along edge 25 leaving a clearance for a tightening strip 50 running between the band and the seam and with the loose ends 52 at the center. 7

After the brassire has beenapplied and fitted to the wearer the ends 52 of the tension strips 50 may be drawn to give a gathering of each cup at the bottom and make a firm grip under the bust line. The band 5| may be formed of any beading or net or binding material and is, fastened to the cup portion 12 by sewing along both edges of the band. The strip 50 is of ribbon, tape, cord, or the like, pulled through between the cup and the band or binding or between the parts and I2. Preferably the band or binding 5| will extend to about /'f from the center top of'the brassire and is, of course, fastened at its inner end to the material of the cup at the corner of the edges 25, 26. l I Y The loose ends 52 of the ribbon or tape strips 5|) are tied at the desired tension or may have a hook and eye fastening or any other type of means maintaining the desired tension. These tension strips may also be individually fastened so as to be separately tightened, this fastening preferably being some connection to the upper center portions of the front pieces I The tensioning means instead of being sewn on the'face of the brassire could be applied to the back, being sewn in place along the edge 25 of the cup l2 andthe ribbon pulledthrough clearcumulation of added bulk of material.

tions of the brassiere are preferably stitched to- 3 ance provided and then through to the front by leaving an opening or so from the end on the seam of the front portion I I.

As illustrated in Fig. 4, the guide strips 55 sewed in place around the lower edges of the cups have the ribbons or elastics 56 firmly attached at 51 to the seams of corresponding cups at the front of the brassire and pulled through the guides and provided with fastening means, such as hooks 58 on the pull strips engaging eyes 59 sewn on the outside of the back piece IU of the brassire. This permits the adjustment of the tension to be made at the sides instead of at the center.

In Fig. showing a rear or inner view of the brassire, facing strips 62 intervenebetween'the front pieces BI and back piecesfill and the guides 63 are positioned on the inner surface of the brassiere extending from near the center at 64 to points 65 adjacent the facing at 69. The ribbon or elastic strips 66 are attached permanently at 6'! at the front seam bet-ween the cups and the front pieces and are pulled through the guides 63 and have extended ends 68 passing around the back of the wearer and connected by being tied or hooked together or otherwise adjustably fastened.

The dart 44 in the design shown has the outer edge out on a vertical grain, the other edge of the cut 43 being on a bias: grain and the edges being stitched together. The material cut out could have been retained and folded over and sewn in exactly the same shape but with the ac- The porgether with overlapping seams and the brassiere may be lined or faced in part or altogether or just bound at the edges. The front portions H with the scam in the center front may be made with elastic inserts or other material like net,

or elastic might be inserted between the front portions II and the end portions II], or elastic might be added to the back ends of these portions Ill.

The cup portions I2 however formed are positioned across the horizontal line of tensioning of the brassire as a, whole and to this positioning and fitting of the cups is added the additional supporting or the tightening of the tensioning means around the form of the cup which completely holds the bust in place secure against dislodgment. This tensioning also separates the bust from the rest of the body and accentuates the division of the breasts, giving a very comfortable and satisfactory control of the fitting and feel of the brassiere, and contributing to its natural shaping and appearance.

The facing strip 62 shown in Fig. 5 may be applied to the front of the brassire in the other figures in which case the guides 25, 55 would be correspondingly terminated at or near the approach to the facing strip.

This is a continuation-in-part of application Number 613,255 now abandoned.

The invention is not confined to the specific details described and shown, but is intended to cover such modifications thereof as fall within the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. In a brassiere a body portion and a pair of cup portions, each of the latter comprising a fabric blank cut and shaped to provide an upper portion carrying the fabric grain upward and outward continuously around from an inner lower corner to terminate at an upper outer edge and wearer, each of said cup portions comprising a blank having free upper edges at an angle to each other with the fabric grain parallel to the inner of said edges, and a lower portion provided with a series of darts, one of which has a vertical edge cutting across said fabric grain and an inner diagonal edge at a bias thereto to bring the lower outer portion of the cup into bias with the grain at the inner portion of the cup.

3. A brassiere comprising a pair of cup Portions each having a bottom edge curving downward and inward to a lowermost intermediate point and upward to a front central point, means at said center connecting said cup portions to-- gether at their inner ends-means attached to the outer ends of said cup portions and extending substantially horizontally around to the back of the wearer and adapted to support and position said cup portions, and tensioning means comprising inelastic strips each fastened to the lower outer portion of the corresponding cup portion adjacent said attaching means and guided and extending in a generally horizontal arc inward around said bottom edge of the said cup portion to adjacent said connecting means'at the center of the brassiere and adapted to be independently adjusted and tensioned and fastened together at said center to maintain the respective adjustments of said cup portions.

4. A brassiere comprising a pair of cup portions each having a bottom edge curving downward and inward to a lowermost intermediate point and upward to a front central point, means at said center connecting said cup portions together at their inner ends, means attached to the outer ends of said cup portions and extending substantially horizontally around to the back of the wearer andadapted to support and position said cup portions, tensioning means consisting of a pair of strips each fastened at one end to a portion of the brassire adjacent the corresponding cup portion and free at the other end and guide means extending in a generally horizontal arc inward around said bottom edge of said cup portion to adjacent said connecting means at the center and housing said strips respectivel so that the latter are freely running in said guide means and adapted to be independently adjusted and tensioned by adjustment through said guide means to separately adjust said cup portions and fastened at said free ends to maintain the respective tensions and adjustments of said cup portions.

5. A brassiere as set forth in claim 4 in which the strips of the tensioning means are of elastic material tending to stretch inuse.

6. A brassier as set forth in claim 4 in which the tensioning strips are permanently fastened at their inner ends adjacent the center of the brassiere and have their outer ends free to be tensioned and fastened.

7. A brassiere as set forth in claim 4 in which the tensioning strips have their inner ends permanently fastened near the front center of the brassiere and are of such length as to pass through the guide means and around the back of the wearer to complete the tensioning circuit.

8. A brassire comprising a pair of cup portions each having a bottom edge curving downward and inward to a lowermost intermediate point and upward to a front central point and includin generally vertical facing strips at their outer edges, means at said center connecting said cup portions together at their inner ends, means attached to the outer ends of said cup portions adjacent said facing strips and extending substantially horizontally around to the back of the wearer and adapted to support and position said cup portions, tensioning means consisting of a pair of strips each fastened at one end to a portion of the brassiere adjacent the corresponding cup portion and free at the other end and guide means extending in a generally horizontal arc inward around said bottom edge of said cup portion to adjacent said connecting means at the center of the brassire and housing said strips respectively so that the latter are REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,555,347 Bacon Sept. 29, 1925 1,874,868 Bisset Aug. 1932 2,092,390 Federico Sept. 7, 1937 2,180,180 Versoy Nov. 14, 1939 2,313,811 Dubner Mar. 16, 1943

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