US2453989A - Coat - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 16, 1948. 1.15. GUCKERT 2,453,989

COAT 7 Filed April 18, 19 6. 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Nov. 16, 1948. L. s. GUCKERT 2,453,989

I com Filed April 18, 1946 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN VEN TOR.

Ndv. 16, 1948. L. s. GUCKERT COAT Fild April 1a, 1946 5 Shee'ts-Sheet 3 IN V EN TOR.

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Nov. 16, 1948. 1,. s. GUCKERT COAT s Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed April 18, 1946 Nov. 16, 1948. 1.. s. GUCKERT COAT 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed April 18, 1946 INVENT 'OR. 5W 2% Patented Nov. 16, 1948 COAT Leonard S. Guckert, Baltimore, Md., assignor to Mavest, Inc., New York, N. Y.

Application April 18, 1946, Serial No. 663,011

3 Claims (01. 2-93) My present invention relates to methods of producing coats and more particularly leisure coats.

It is an object of my present invention to simplify the construction of such coats so as to reduce the difiiculties connected with production of the same.

It is another object of my present invention to produce coats which are very light and comfort able to wear.

' Still another object of my present invention consists in a coat construction by which the amount of used reinforcing lining material might be reduced without affecting the appearance of the coat.

More particularly, it is an object of my present invention to provide a coat the fronts and back of which are cut so as to create the desired bulges in the coat fronts without the necessity of-using reinforcing lining material for creating the bulging effects.

With the above objects in view, a coat according to my present invention comprises two coat fronts, a coat back composed of two back sections, and two inwardly curved side seams connecting this coat back to the mentioned coat fronts; these side seams are arranged in accordancewith my present invention substantially along the central side lines of the coat extending from the undercenter of the armholes to the bottom edge of the coat.

Also in accordance with my present invention I provide in each coat front only one front dart extending parallel to the corresponding side seam 'of the front; this front dart is preferably also parallel to the front edge of the coat front and at equal distance from this front edge and the side seam.

The sleeves of a coat of the type proposed by me are sewn into the armholes of the coat in such a manner that their longitudinal underarm seams extend from the edges of the sleeves to the points of intersection of the armholes with the side seams of the coat, i. e. to the so-called undercenter points of the armholes.

I have found that a coat constructed as defined above does not need any reinforcing lining to create the necessary bulges in the coat fronts.

.Thus, it is possible to provide a coat front of the type defined above only with one single reinteristic for my invention are set forth in particular in the appended claims. The invention itself, however, both as to its construction and its method of operation, together with additional objects and advantages thereof, will bebest understood from the following description of specific embodiments when read in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. l is a coat front forming part of a coat according to my present invention; 1

Fig. 2 is a coat back forming also part-ofa coat according to my present invention;

Fig. 3 is a front view of a coat according to my present invention provided with coat fronts of the type shown in Fig. 1 and coat back of the type shown in Fig. 2; I e i Fig. 4 is a side view of the coat shown in Fig. 3, with the sleeve in raised position; 1 i,

Fig. 5 is a side View of a coat of conventional design;

Fig. 6 is a view of the inner face of. the coat front shown in Fig. 1,'provided with the neces-: sary linings and a shoulder pad; and

Fig. 7 is a view of the inner face of a coat front of conventional design provided with the various linings and shoulder pad usually used.

As set forth above, my new coat consists of two coat fronts III, a coat back ll composed of two back sections I 2 and I 3, two sleeves l4 and a collar l5.

In accordance with my present invention, the coat fronts extend only until the central side lines 16 of the coat; each of these lines I6 extend from the undercenter ll of the armhole I8 to the bottom edge 19 of the coat. This bottom edge l9 coincides usually with the hip line of the wearer.

In order to obtain a coat front having the shape defined above, the coat front 10 is cut so that its side edge 20 coincides with the central side line I6. Furthermore, in order to obtainthe necessary bulging effect in the front of the coat, this edge 20 is inwardly curved at 2| as clearly shown in Fig. l.

By shaping the coat front l0 and its side edge 20 in this manner, it is possible to pull the coat front l0 along side edge 20 particularly at the inwardly curved portion 2! thereof toward the back of the coat and to obtain thereby the desired bulging effect in the upper part of the coat front. In order to strengthen this bulging effect, I provide one single front dart 22 arranged as shown in Figs. 1 and 3 substantially parallel to the front edge 23 and the side edge 20 of the=coat front It at equal distance from the same.

I wish to stress that coats of usual design have their side seams always on the back of the coat as clearly indicated in Fig. 5 showing a side view of a coat of conventional type. In order to obtain such a location of the side seams, coat fronts of usual design are much wider than coat fronts of the type proposed by me.

In order to enable comparison of a usual coat front with a. coatifront. of the .type proposed by me, I-have indicatedin Fig. 1 in dotted linesthe shape of a usual coat front; as clearly visible the side edge 24 of a usual coat front is much farther back than the side edge of my new coat front.

Furthermore, the side edge '24 of a usual-coat front has to be absolutely straight since otherwise it would create a bulge ,on the back of the coat. Thus, the side seamsconnecting the fronts with the back of a usual coat can in no way helpin creating the bulges in the coat fronts, Contrary thereto, asexplained: above,'by running the side ,seams 20 alongthe central side lines 31'5 of -the.-coat as-proposed by me it isn-possible to make theseside-seams curved and to create-the necessary bulges in.:the' fronts of the :coat'.

.lInaFig. 2 Ihave shown infull lines a-coat'ba'ck lxlxused'for'my new coat and indicated :incthis sametfigure *in dotted .linest'the side edges- 25 of awcoat back of usual'type. evident from this drawing, the side edges: 26 of theycoat back H proposed by.me are-much farther apart than the side edgesZS of a coat'xback ofusual design. Accordingly, a coat. back. of the type proposed by me'i's;.much .widerthan a coat back of usual des gn; thisz=is alsoevident from Figs; 4'and' 5 in which the position of the side seam 21' o'f' a coat ofthe typeproposed by'mev and of the side seam 28 of a coat of usual design, respectively, are shown: the side seam ifl of the coatproposed' by me coincides, as shown in Fig. 4, with the :centralside line I6' of the coat, whilethe -sideseam 28 0f acoat of usual type islocated actuallyon the back of the coat, at a substantialdistance from the central side line I'B indicated on Fig. 5 in: dotted lines.

Therefore, the front of a coat of usual design is'much wider than the front of a coat of the type proposedby mean-d, in order to obtain the required bulges, it is necessary to provide at least two front darts 29 and 30 as shown in Fig.5

and to arrange-in addition thereto a complicated reinforcing lining construction of the type shown in Fig. '7; i

Such a conventional reinforcing lining comprises as shown in this figure, a large layer of l hymo fabric 3lcovering almost the entire-coat front, a reinforcing canvas 32 extending over the chest portion of the frontja felt fabric 533 coverin'gthe entire'upper portion of the front, and a hair' cloth 34 covering the entire shoulder portion of the front. All these lining layers have to be stitched to each other over their entire surfaces-seas to prevent dislocation of..the' single layers relative to each other. y

In additiorrto this complicatedliningconstruction", a coat front of conventional type contains also shoulderpads .35 and an inner covering'lining not shown in the drawing; thisinner lining has no'reinforcing eifect'andserves' only to cover the reinforcing lining construction arranged "between the top fabric of the coat front and the inner lining. For the reasons explained abova a coat-a'ccord ing'zto my present invention does not need any reinforcing lining [construction-g therefore, I do not need any of the linings described above and used in a coat front of conventional type shown in Fig. 7.

As shown in Fig. 6, a coat front [0 of the type proposed by me is equipped only with a narrow strip 36 of hymo fabric provided along the front edge 23 of the front; this fabric strip 35 serves exclusively to prevent curling of the fabric at the edge. It has no effect upon the-bulging of the coat front; this is-also unnecessary since the required bulging effect is created by the shape of the top fabrics of the fronts and back of the .coat. The hymo strip 36 reaches also under lapel 31 of the coat front so as to reinforce the same.

At the shoulder of the coat under shoulder seam 38 I provide in well known manner a shoulder-pad 35. This shoulder pad 35 has, however, no effect upon the shape of the chest portion of the coat front. It prevents only sloping of the shoulder line and improves the appearance of the coat in this respect.

It will be understood that each of the. elements described above, or two or more together, .may also-:find a useful application in other types of garments, e. g. top coats differing from the types described above.

While I have illustrated and described the :invention as embodied in leisure coats, I-do :not intend to be limited to the details shown, since various modifications and structural changes may be made without departing in any way from 'the spirit of my invention.

Without further analysis, the foregoing will so fully reveal the gist of my invention that others can by applying current knowledge readily adapt it for various applications without omitting features-that, from the standpoint of prior art, fairly constitute essential characteristics of. the generic or specific aspects of thisinvention, and, therefore, such adaptations should and maintended to be comprehended within the meaning and range of equivalence of the followingclaims.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

'1. A coat comprising two coat fronts having side edges arranged substantially along the central side lines of said coat extending from the undercenter points of the armholes to the bottom edge of the coat; a coat back composed of two back sections secured to each other bya central back seam, said coat back having two side edges arranged substantially along said central side lines; side seams connecting said side edges'of said coat back and said coat fronts and extendingsubstantially along said central side lines of said coat; onesinglefront dart in each coat front extending substantially parallel to said side seams of said coat; and sleeves sewn into said'armholes of said coat and having longitudinal underarm seams, said sleeves constructed so that said longitudinal underarm seams extend from the edges of the sleevesto-the points of intersection of said armholeswith said side seams of said coat.

2. A coat comprising two coat fronts having each an inwardly curved side edge; a coat .back composed of two back sections having each an inwardly curved side edge; side seamsconnecting saidinwardly curved side edges of said coat back sections and said inwardly curved side-edges of said coatfronts so that said coat is inwardly curvedalong both sides in the region of. said side seamsjsaid side seams extending from the armholes of said coat to the bottom edge thereof substantially along the central side lines of said coat extending from the' undercenter points of said armholes to the hip line of the coat; one single relatively short front dart in each coat front extending substantially parallel to the corresponding side seam of said coat and the front edge of said coat front substantially parallel to said side seam and said front edge; and sleeves having underarm seams and sewn into said armholes of said coat in such a manner that said underarm seams extend from the edges of said sleeves to the undercenter points of said armholes meeting said inwardly curved side seams of said coat.

3. A coat comprising two coat fronts having side edges arranged substantially along the central side lines of said coat extending from the undercenter points of the armholes to the bottom edge of the coat; a coat back composed of two back sections secured to each other by a central back seam, said coat back having two side edges arranged substantially alon said central side line of said coat; one single relatively short front dart in each coat front, said front darts extending substantiall parallel to the corresponding side and front edges of said coat fronts at substantially equal distance from said edges; shoulder seams connecting said coat back and said coat REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATE PATENTS Number Name Date 964,278 Larkin July 12, 1910' 1,388,563 Hanson Aug. 23, 1921 1,677,913 Bieberstein July 24, 1928 1,793,377 Siskin Feb. 17, 1931 1,900,391 Slanger Mar. 7, 1933 1,973,419 Trageser Sept. 11, 1934 2,330,520 Saveth Sept. 28,1943

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