US2202388A

US2202388A - Shoe sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US2202388A
Application number: US160746A
Authority: US
Inventors: Bernard T Leveque
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1937-08-25
Filing date: 1937-08-25
Publication date: 1940-05-28
Anticipated expiration: 1957-05-28

Description

B. T. LEVEQUE SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 25, 1937 8 Sheets-Sheet 1 V 177,?) ntor May 28, '1940.

Ill I ll Flllll mun Wi tTLF/S 5 CAQ/LZM 7. m

May 28, 1940. B. "r. LEVEQUE SHOE SEWING momma:

Filed Aug. 25, 1957 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 gor ' Inve May 28, 1940. B. T. LEVEQUE SHOE SEWING MACHINE a Sheds-Sheet 3 Filed Aug. 25, 1937 May 28, 1940.

Fig.9

Witnss m7 (951491;

B. 'r. LEVE-QUE 2,202,388

SHOE SEWING IACHINE 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed Aug. 25. 1937 Fig. 40

Inventor 74114444441 May 28, 1 940. B. T. LEVEQUE SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 25, 193'! 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 www QM ww Wt t-ness CAM/5&1 5640?],

May 28, 1940.

B. T. I EVEQUE SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 25; 1937 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 Witness M 7 6m y 1940. B. 'r. LEVEQUE 2,202,388

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 25, 1957 8 Sheets-Sheet 7 Inventor MM Wz' tn ess W F; 2 zi i g Mia 2M y 1940. B. 'r. LEVEQUE 2,202,388

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 25, 1937 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 Inventor Patented May 28,

UNIT-ED srA'ra S, PATENT orr ca I I 'snoaj'snwnro i p 'r. unquegwenmmmnmnono -United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough ,"of Fieniington, N. 1., a corporation of New- Jemy Application as, 1931, s -a1 No. 160,748 a g 410mm. (01. 112-30 The present invention relates to shoe sewin machines, and more particularly to a sewing machine of the McKay type which comprises. a

straight hook needle, a rotatable shoe-supporting horn arranged to extend inside of the shoe op;

' erated upon, and a needle threading device I cated at the tip of the horn.

According to the usual practice in connection with the sewing of a shoe on a McKay type sewing machine, an 'outsole is first temporarily atby means ofan outside gage operating either in the channel or on the edge of thesole. Inasmuch, however, as the insole is substantially smaller than the outsole, 'while the preferred spacing of the seamfrom the edges of the insole is substantially the same as from the edge of the outsole, the proper positioning of the seam 'on the insole can be secured only by tipping the shoeslightly on the supporting horn during the sewing operation so that the line 01' stitches on the insole will be offset slightly within the line of stitches on the outsole.

At the shank portion, due to the shaping of the '35. parts, a somewhat greater tipping of the shoe is required than at the fore-part for the proper positioning of the stitches.

Where, due to inaccurate assembling of the 4 parts, the outsole is displaced any substantial the particular portions being sewn, but also upon the accuracy of the assembling. Since the stitches on thefinsole are hidden from view during the. sewing, the operator is obliged to rely entirely upon his judgment and the feel" of the shoein determining the proper extent. to which the shoe should be tipped. Long experience and amount from its proper position with respect to.

great skill are thus required for the most suc- I cessful operation .ofthis type of machine.

Itxis the object of the present invention 'to relieve the operator to a large degree of the exercise of skill and judgment in determining the amount of tip required to be imparted to the shoe, and to' control in whole or in part such tipping by the machine itself so that inexperienced 4 and less skillful operators will position the seam without diilicult'y at the proper distance from the edges of both. the o'utsole and the insole.

Further objects are to provide novel and improved work feeding and needle looping devices,

particularly adapted for usein a machine of this type, which devices. are more durable and reliable in operation and require theexercise of less skill and attention on the part of the'operator than in previous machines.

With these and other objects in view, one

feature of the present invention contemplates the provision in a shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having a straight hook needle, a rotatable shoe supporting horn, and a needle threading looper at the tip of the horn, of agage or guide projecting above, and pivotally mounted on, the tip of the horn to turn about the axis of'horn rotation and adapted to engage the edge of the insole and position the same with rectly on the insole. As herein illustrated, the

edge gage for the insole projects above the" looper and the looper is actuated by a driving member engaging the under side of the looper so as to avoid interfering with the edge gage.

It is to be noted that the gage of the present invention engages the insole outside of the seam line and thus is different in structure and function from guiding buttons or rolls with which it has been proposed to. equip the horns of McKay sewing machines, which buttons or rolls are concentric with the needle hole in the horn and en'- gage a channel in the insole or the edge or a pattern inside of the seam line.

Another feature of the invention relates to a novel'and improved rotary needle looper, more particularly intended for use in a McKay type sewing machine, but also capable of use in other machines, said looper being formed with a downwardly extending portion having gear teeth .on its'lower edge and an internal bearing surface 'certaintyat a uniform distance from the seam employed without increasing the size of the horn at its tip, and the support for the'looper may be made stronger than heretofore, so that the bearing surface of the looper may have a larger area with resulting increased durability and freedom from wear.

A further feature of the invention comprises means whereby the needle in a McKay type shoe sewing machine maybe actuated to feed the work, thus avoiding the use of a separate feed point or awl.

Other features of the invention will be readily understood by one skilled in the art from the 101- lowing description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings.

In the drawings Fig. 1 is a view in side elevation of a complete machine embodying the features of the present invention; Fig. 2 is an enlarged detail view in side elevation of certain 01' the parts connected with the looper actuating mechanism of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1:

Fig. 3 is a plan view, partly in section, of the same parts; Fig. 4 is a plan view, on an enlarged scale.

partly broken away and in section, of the upper part of the work supporting horn; Fig; '5 is a vertical sectional view of the upper part of the horn taken along the line 5 of Fig. 4; Fig. 8 is a vertical sectional view, taken along the line 0-0 of Fig. 4, with the parts of the shoe being sewn shown in broken outline; and Fig. 7 is a detached, perspective view of the edge gage at the tip of the horn.

Fig. 8 is a view in side elevation of the head of the machine on an enlarged scale as viewed in the same direction as Fig. 1; Fig. 9 is an enlarged sectional view, taken from the rear along the-line 99 of Fig. 8, illustrating the needle bar and cast-ofl supporting means, certain parts having been removed or broken away; Fig. 10 is a similar view of the same parts, showing the cast-ofl actuating mechanism; and Fig. 11 is a detail view in side elevation and partly in section of the parts shown in Figs. 9 and 10.

Fig. 12 is a plan view of the head of the machine; Fig. 13 is a detail horizontal-sectional view, taken along the line Iii-l3 of Fig. 11; Fig. 14 is a similar detail view, taken along the line ll-ll of Fig. 11; Fig. 15 is a front elevation of the head and the top portion of the horn of the machine with the machine in stopped position; Fig. 16 is a detail view illustrating, in front elevation, certain portions of the needle reciprocating and feeding mechanism; Fig. 17 is a perspective view of the cast-oil and the lower end of its supporting bar; Fig. 18 is a detail plan view 'on an enlarged scale of the needle threading looper, illustrating its relation to the needle while laying the thread in the needle hook; Fig. 19 is a vertical sectional view, taken along the line i9-l9 of Fig. 18; and Figs. 20 to 23 inclusive are detail views illustrating the needle, looper, and presser foot in the successive positions assumed during the formation of a stitch and feeding of the work.

The machine illustrated in the drawings is' a McKay type chain stitch shoe sewing machine similar in many respects to the machine described in United States Letters Patent of the present inventor No. 1,738,778, dated December 10, 1929, and has a rotatable work supporting horn. indicated at 2, 'a straight hook needle 4, a cast-oil 5,

and a presser foot 6 arranged to cooperate with, and clamp the work against, the tip of the horn. The driving mechanism for the machine comprises an electric motor 8 mounted in the base of the machine, a vertical shaft I 0, the rotation of which is controlled by means of a clutch i2 and a foot treadle II, I. in the head of the machine driven from the vertical shaft l0, and a lower supplementary horizontal looper shaft I 8, also driven from the vertical shaft l0 and arranged to actuate through suitable connections a needle threading device or whirl I! at the tip of the horn. The above described parts are in general constructed and arranged as in the prior machine.

In the prior machine of Patent No. 1,738,778, no means are provided for guiding the insole on the inside of the shoe,'the operator relying upon the presser foot in the channel on the outsole to position the seam on the outsole, and tipping the shoe as his experience dictated, in order to locate the seam properly on the insole.

In the machine of the drawings embodying the present invention, an edge gage has been provided which is pivotally mounted on the tip of the horn and arranged to engage the outer edge of the insole and guide the same during the sewing operation. By holding the shoe against both the insole gage and the presser foot in the channel of the outsole, the proper amount of tipping will automatically be imparted to the shoe to insure the correct positioning of the seam on the insole.

Referring to Figs. 5, 6 and 7 of the drawings herein, the edge gage consists of a vertical tongue or projection 20 extending above the tip of the horn from a ring 22, to which the projection is integrally attached in proper relation to enter the crevice formed by the upstanding side of the upper and the insole. The ring 22 is pivotally mounted on the bearing surfaces 23 and 24 on the I outer periphery of the whirl I 9, being held thereon by a bearing cap piece 25 secured to the tip of the horn by a screw 26, and engaging the inclined beveled top face of the flange 21 extending laterally from the bottom of the gage ring 22.

In order to limit the rotational movement of the gage with respect to the whirl so that the gage will invariably be in proper position to engage the edge of the insole when the shoe is placed over the horn preparatory to sewing, a slot 28 has been formed in the gage ring 22 through which projects the pin 30 fixed in the whirl. The position and length' of the slot are such that the gage ring may turn freely with respect to both whirl and horn to a sufficient extent to permit the gage to remain in engagement with the edge of the insole throughout the sewing operation and irrespective of the rotational movement of whirl and horn in such sewing operation.

In the operation of the machine the whirl, as explained later in more detail, is given an oscillatory movement through approximately one-sixth of a revolution between fixed and predetermined limits, and is wholly independent of and unaifected by any swinging or turning movement of the horn. Similarly, the gage ring, rotatably mounted on the whirl, is unafiected by turning movement of the horn, its extent of rotation on the whirl, however, being fixed within the limits of the pin and slot connection.

' In Fig. 6 are shown the relative positions of the needle and whirl, the insole and outsole gages, and in broken outline portions of the insole, upper and outsole adjacent the seam. The outa horizontal main sewing shaft as outside the shoe.

In order to support the whirl l8, and the gage ring 22 mounted thereon without increasing the dimensionsof the born the whirl is provided with whirl is not rotated continuously in one direction,

an internal bearing surface 82 engaging the fixed tubular bearing 84 formed on the extremity, of the horn, the bearing cap 26 and the edge gage ring 22 serving also to prevent vertical displacement of the whirl.

In the machine of the drawings, the looper or as in the prior machine above referred to, but is given oscillatory movements through approxie mately 60, which has been found ample to insure threading of the needle where the hook is posi tioned on the back face of the needle and parallel to the line of feed, instead of on the side of the needle opposite the direction of the feed as in the prior machine. The actuating mechanism for imparting these oscillations to the looper comprises bevel-gear teeth 40 on the bottom face of the whirl and arranged to be driven by bevel gear teeth 42 integrally formed on the end of the shaft 44 in the upper portions of the horn (see Fig. 5). This in turn is driven through gears 48 and 41 by shaft 48 in the lower part of the horn and the latter through-pinion 50 and larger gear 52 by vertical shaft 54 (see Fig. l).

In order to protect the shoe from injury by contact with the gear teeth 48 on the looper, the tubular support 34 at the tip of the horn is provided with the flange 55 at the lower front portion thereof to underlie and cover the teeth,.as shown in Fig. 5. v

Shaft 54 is oscillated from the continuously rotating intermediate horizontal shaft II by means of a cam and connections as shown in Figs. 2 and 3. The actuating cam fixed upon shaft I8 is indicated at 56, the cam groove, except for a small portion shown in Fig.8, being omitted for sake of clarity of the drawings. Motion is transmitted from the cam through a follower 58 to the bell crank lever 80 pivotedlay the thread in the hook of the needle after' the latter has penetrated the work and then to return to starting position as the needle rises.

For the greater portion of the stitch forming cycle the looper is held stationary by an extended dwell in the cam face.

The sewing thread is led from a source of supply HI in the base of the machine to the usual thread controlling and waxing devices and then upwardly through the horn and along the thread pas sage l2 and over the guiding shoulder 14 to a point immediately beneath the whirl and in its axis of rotation (see Fig. 5). passes to the eccentricaly positioned thread eye I6 in the whirl or looper button ll.

, In' the present machine the work insteadzof The thread then rests directly upon the looper or button itself, and in order to provide clearance for the thread between the button and the work-so that the pressure of the latter when the presser foot'is depressed will not prevent or interfere with the oscillation of the looper, a thread receiving groove 18 has been provided in the'upper face of the latter. extending from thethread eye I8 tangentially of the needle in the direction of the,

feed as the looper remains stationary prior to its looping action. U

In the present machine the work is fed by the needle and to provide for. its lateral feeding the usual axially. disposed, circular opening only slightly larger than the diameter of the needle, has a generally triangular opening as shown-at 80. One apex of the triangle is substantially movement, the looper button, instead of having aligned with the axisof the whirl to receive the needle in its descent after penetrating the work, while, the two diverging sides provide ample clearance for the-needle as it moves laterally to feed the work. During the greater portion of such feeding movement the whirl is stationary in the position shown in, full line in Fig.4 and in brokenoutline in Fig. 18,- so that the needle is moved along the wall 82. Before such movement is completed, the looper button is oscillated'to bring the parts intofull line .position shown in Fig. 18' which they maintain until after the I lit, shaped to give the proper vertical reciprocations tothe needle in timed relation to the movements of theother instrumentalities. I

The lateral orfeeding movements of the needle are secured by imparting swinging oscillatory movements to a pivoted carrier or frame in which the needle bar is slidingly mounted. Thecarrier as shown in Figs. 9, wand 11, comprises the upper and lower. bearing members 182 and I04, respectively, with bowed connecting member I06.

The upper member I02 is pivotally mounted upon the conical bearing pins Hi8 clamped in the U- shaped bracket I I0 secured to the head casting I of the machine. Vertically disposed bores or bearings are provided in the upper and lower members in which is slidingly mounted the needle bar 86.

To prevent rotational movement of the bar in its bearings, with resulting displacement of the hook of the needle from the position required for proper looping of the thread, the block 84 is pro- 7 vided with a lateral extension or guide 2 renal bearing faces. and slides backand forth'in the guideway H6 in the headof the machine as the carrier is oscillated on its pivot to cause the needle to make its feeding and return movements. v y 1 The carrier is oscillated through'a link 8 (see Fig. 16) pivotally connected at one end to the tion of the link connection in the slot I32 in arm I20, the extent of feed movement of the needle, 1. e. the length of the stitch, can be varied.

The cast-ofi 5 is mounted at the lower end of the cast-off bar I" slidingly supported .at its lower end in the lower carrier, member I, and

needle bar. It is held from rotational movement by the roll I on the clamp I" fixed to the upper end of the cast-oil. bar, the roll being positioned between theoppositely disposed guiding faces I38 on the carrier.

The cast-off is actuated from the needle bar by means of the block 84 fixed upon thengeedle bar and through which cast-off bar I33 passes. The clamp I38 fixed on the cast-oil bar below the block, and the clamp I36 on'the bar above the block serve as stops or abutments to be engaged by the block in its downward and upward movements, and thereby positively actuate the castoff bar and cast-off.

In order to hold the cast-off bar raised during. the initial portion of, the needle stroke and until the block 84 engages the bottom clamp I, a friction mechanism has been provided which comprises a pair of pivoted friction fingers I! (see Fig. 10) arranged to engage yieldingly under the action of spring I42 the upper end of the castoflbar when the latter is raised to its upward v by a feed point as in the above mentioned prior machine. Furthermore, the work is fed solely by the needle instead of by such feed point. To guide and support the needle during these puncturing and feeding movements -andprevent its buckling or bending or springing out of proper cooperative relation to the cast-01f, the latter has been formed with supplementary needle supporting means consisting of an encircling band or sleeve I (see Fig. 1'7) which surrounds the shank of the needle with a sliding fit.

The mechanism for actuating the presser foot comprises a Dresser foot bar I", urged downwardly by the spring I5! surrounding the bar (see Fig. 15) and also by'a spring I" sur-' rounding shaft I62 and secured at one end to the collar I63 fast on the shaft, and at the other end to the collar I adjustably mounted on the machine frame (seeFigLB). on shaft I62 is connected by link I'll to the presser foot supporting lever II in which the shank of the presser foot 6 is secured (see Fig.

15). The bar is raised against the tension springs I58 and ISO bymechanism, best shown in Fig. 16, which'comprises the block I11 fast on the presser bar and carrying the pivotally mounted block I18 with a V-shaped groove in its lower face, cooperating with V-shaped edge I80 of lifting lever I82. The latter lever is pivotally supported at "Son the end of arm I" on rock shaft I which is actuated through arm II, link Ill, and cam lever I 92 with cam roll I93 engaged by cam I94. Thus with each cycle of operation of the An arm Ill. fast machine the lifting lever II! is raised and with it the presser foot bar. and the presser foot.

In order to impart a uniform lift of the presser foot above the work, regardless of variations in the thickness thereof, the presser foot supporting lever I1. is laterally .extended and provided at its end with the roll 2" engaging the included ledge 2 at the lower end-of pivoted lever 2l2,

, connectedat its upper end by link 2 to liftatv its upper end in the block 84 secured to the .when the machine is stopped with the presser foot raised as shown in Fig. 15.

The presser foot and its actuating mechanism above described are in general the same in construction as in the machine of the prior patent. In operation the presser foot is, raised and lowered in timed relation to the movements of the looper or whirl and of the needle so that during the'looping and, feeding movements of these devices the presser foot will be raised and the work freed from pressure. Thus, Fig. 20 shows the needle in the work and the threadlooping movement of the whirl just completed, the presser foot being. raised during such'movement. In Fig. 21 the needle has finished its work feeding movement toward the left, the presser foot being still raised. In Fig. 22 the needle is drawing a loop of thread through the work and the previously formed loop, the presser foot now being depressed and clamping the work firmly die is fully retracted and returned to its original position for penetrating the work, the presser foot still being held depressed to clamp the work.

While the drawings show in more or less detail other mechanisms and devices which form a part of the machine, these need not be here described since they form no part of the invention disclosed and claimed herein. They are the same in construction and operate in the same manner as the corresponding mechanisms and devices in said prior patent, to which reference may be made for a full and complete description.

The operation of the machine as a whole is in general the same as the machine of the prior patent, except in connection with those devices and mechanisms which are directly connected with the invention and made the subject of the present invention. As to these parts the operation is as follows:

Assuming the machine to be at rest, the operator will position a shoe upon the horn with the insole gage in contact with the edge of the insole within the shoe which is then tipped, as shown in Fig. 6 to bring the presser foot into the channel in the outsole. With the presser foot holding the work clamped tightly against the whirl and horn, the sewing mechanism is set in operation and the needle is forceddownwardly through the work and into the opening in the whirl. The parts are then in the position shown in Fig. 23, with the needle in broken line.- (See also Figs. 4 and 6.) The presser foot is then raised and the needle given a slight upward movement to relieve the whirl which is given its looping motion, to lay the thread in the barb om... needle, bringing the as. to the position shown in Fig. 20. With the presser foot still raised, the needle-is given its feeding stroke,

moving to the position shown inl 'lgs. l8 and 21,

and upon completion thereof the presser foot again clamps the work and the needle liftsto draw the loop of thread through the 1m rel-med loop, as shown in Fig. 22.

As the needle approaches the top of the upward movement, it' is given its backwardidle stroke to its initial position and ready for the next downward stroke, the parts being'then as shown in full lines "in Fig. 23, and during the latter portion of said movement the looper is given its return rotation.

As the sewing proceeds around the shoe, the

presser foot and the edge gage are maintained in engagement with the channel in the outsole and the edged the insole, respectively, thereby eflecting or tending to effect a tipping of the shoe in the hands of the operator so that the needle will always emerge from the insole within the shoe at the predetermined, uniform distance from the edge ,of the insole, irrespective of irregularities in the overlap of the outsole due-to' imperfect positioning of the outsole and the insole, or for any other reason.

As the shoe and horn turn, the insole gage willadjust itself, as may be required, to maintain engagement with the edge of the" insole, the

range of rotational movement of the gagebe-q ing for this purpose sumcient.

By using the needle to feed the work, the feed point is eliminated from the 1 machine, not only reducing the number of operating instrumentalities, but making it possible -to locate the presser foot much nearer the needle so that it will be more efl'ective in clamping the work upon the horn and a tighter seam'will be secured than with the prior machine of the patent.

By the novel construction andarrangement oi the whirl and born, the former may be of ample size and the contacting parts of sumcient dimension toavoid excessive wear. The positioning of the hook of the needle on the back side thereof also makes it possible to lay a thread in the hook with a minimum of rotational movement 'of the whirl and its driving mechanism,- which 1. A shoe sewing machine ofthe McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and ,work' feeding devices including a hook needle, a rotatable work supporting horn, and a gage pivotally mounted on the horn constructed and arranged to engage a shoe part on theinslde oi the shoe outside of the seam line and determine the location of the seam with relation to the edge of the insole, the gage turning relatively to the'horn'to.

maintain propercooperative relation with the shoe part during the sewing operation.

2.A shoe sewing machine of theMbKay having, in combination, stitch forming and work.

feeding devices including a hook needle, a rotatable work supporting hem, and an insole. gage pivotally mounted on thehorn'constructed and defined in the appended inside of the shoe outside of the seam line, the

gage turning relatively to the. how to maintain ,proper'cooperativei relation to the edge 'of the .the gage turning relatively to the horn and to the looper to maintain proper cooperative relation'to the edge of the insole during the sewing operation. I I

4. Ashoe sewing machineof the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle, a rotatable work supporting .hom, a looper mounted to turn on the horn, and u gage rotatably mounted on thelooper to engage the edge of the insole on the inside of the shoe, the gage turning with respect tothe looper andto the horn to maintain proper cooperative relation to the edge of the insole duringthe sewing operation.

5. Ashoe sewing machine of the-McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming andwork feeding devices including a straight hook needle,

a rotatable work supporting horn, a looper mounted to turn on the tip of the horn and having an axial, needle-receiving opening, and an insole gage comprising an annular member pivotally mounted on the looper and having a projecting lip to engage the edge of the insole on the inside of theshoe, the gage turning on the looper to maintain proper cooperative relation to the edge of the insole during the sewing operation.

6. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle, a rotatable work supporting horn, and an annular member pivotally mounted on the horn and having a lip projecting upwardly therefrom to engage the edge of the insole of the shoe outside of the seam line to locate the seam on th'einside ofthe shoe. 7. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a'hook needle, a

, rotatable work supporting horn, a looper mounted to turn on the horn, a gage pivotally mounted on the horn coaxially with the looper constructed and arranged to engage the edge of the insole on the inside of the shoe outside of the seam line,

the gage turning relatively to the horn and to the looper to maintain proper cooperative rela- .tion to the edge 'of the insole during the sewing operation, and means for limiting the rotational jmovementoi the gage.

. 8. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding. devices including a straight hook-needle, a rotatable work supporting horn, a looper mounted to turn on the horn, a gage rotatably mounted on the looper to engage the edge of the insole on the inside of the shoe, the gage turning with respect to the looper and to the horn to maintain proper cooperative relation to the edge of the insole during thesewing operation, and a pin-and slot connection between the gage and the looper for limiting the range of rotational movement of the gage with respect to the looper.

9. An insole gage for shoe sewing machines comprising an annular member provided with a bearing surface to support the gage rotatably and having alip projecting from the member and adapted to engage the edge of the shoe insole outside of the seam line.

10. An insole gage comprising an annular member having an upwardly extending guiding lip, a central bore to provide an internal bearing surface to support the gage rotatably, and a laterally extending flange having top and bottom bearing faces.

11. An insole gage for shoe sewing machines comprising an annular member having bearing surfaces for rotatably supporting the same, the member being provided with a guiding lip extending therefrom adapted to engage the edge of an insole outside of the seam line, and with means for limiting the extent of rotation of the member.

12. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle, a rotatable work supporting horn having an external bearing surface at the tip thereof, a looper having an internal bearing surface adapted to turn upon the bearing surface on the horn, the looper being provided with an axial opening to receive the needle.

13. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle, a rotatable work supporting horn having a tubular support at its tip with an outer bearing surface thereon, a looper mounted to turn upon said tubular support and having a needle receiving opening axially disposed with respect to the looper and to the support and an eccentric thread receiving opening aligned with the bore of the tubular support.

14. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle, a rotatable work supporting horn having a tubular support at its tip with an outer bearing surface thereon, a looper mounted to turn upon said tubular support, and driving means for the looper comprising a member engaging the under face of the looper.

15. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle,

a rotatable work supporting horn having a tubular support at its tip with an outer bearing sizrface thereon, a looper mounted to turn upon said tubular support, and driving means for the looper comprising gear teeth on the under face of the looper, and a shaft mounted to turn in the horn having gear teeth engaging the teeth on the looper.

16. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle,

a rotatable shoe supporting horn, a rotary looper.

mounted at the tip of the horn having a surface to support the work adjacent the thrust of the needle, said surface being provided with a depression to-receive the thread between the work and the looper.

17. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle, a rotatable shoe supporting horn, a rotary looper mounted at the tip of the horn, and means for actuating the looper first in one direction and then in the other through an angle not greater than sixty degrees to lay the thread in the hook of the needle.

18. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, inf combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle having a;hook facing at substantially right angles to the line of feed, a. shoe supporting hom a rotary looper at the tip of the horn, and means for actuating the looper to lay the thread inthe hook of the needle.

19. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, incombination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle, a rotatable work supporting horn having a tubular support at its tip with an outer bearing surface thereon, a looper mounted to turn upon said tubular support and driving means for the looper comprising a member engaging the under. side of the looper, the horn being' extended to cover the teeth on the looper to prevent contact of the teeth with the work.

'20. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle, a rotatable .work supporting horn having its tip extending laterally to form a tubular support cut away at its lower portion adjacent the horn to form a cut away, shaft-receiving opening, a looper mounted to turn upon the support, and a shaft mounted in the horn adjacent the support and extending into the opening for actuating the looper.

21. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle, a rotatable work supporting horn having a tubular support at its tip with an outer bearing comprising vertical and horizontal bearing surfaces,

a looper having on its inner and bottom portions vertical and horizontal bearing surfaces engaging said surfaces on the support and being provided at its outer and top portions with vertical and horizontal bearing faces, an annular gage member having inner and bottom bearing surfaces engaging the bearing surfaces on the outer and top portions of the looper and provided at its outer and top portions with vertical and outwardly beveled bearing surfaces, and a cap piece secured to the horn and engaging said last mentioned bearing surfaces on the case for retaining the gage and the looper in operative position on the support on the horn.

22. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle, a rotatable work supporting horn having a tubular support at its tip with an outer bearing surface thereon, a looper mounted to turn upon said tubular support, a gage mounted to turn on the looper, and a cap piece secured to the horn for retaining the gage and the looper in operative position.

23. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices "including a straight hook needle, a rotatable work supporting horn, and a looper mounted to turn on the tip of the horn and having an eccentric thread eye, the horn being provided with an open thread passage on its lower face to guide the thread to said eye.

24. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices comprising a hook needle, a rotatable work supporting horn, a looper mounted to turn on the horn and to lay the thread in the hook or the needle, and means for moving the same.

the needle laterally when in thework to feed 25. A shoe sewing-machine of the McKaytype having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices comprisingva vhook needle, a

.- rotatable work' supporting horn, a looper having an axially disposedneedle receiving opening and an axially disposed needle receiving opening mounted to turn on the horn and to lay the thread in the hook of the needle, and means for moving the needle laterally'when in the work'to feed the same.

2s. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type .having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices comprising a hook needle, a rotatable work supporting horn, a'looper having shaped to permit rotational movement of the looper and lateral movement of the needle when the latteris in the opening, and means for rotating the looper and for moving the needle later-' ally to feed the work.

27. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices comprising a hook needle, a.

rotatable work supporting horn, a looper having a triangular needle receiving opening and mounted to turn on the horn to lay the thread in the hook of the needle, and means for moving the needle laterallywhen in the work to feed the same. v

28. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices comprising a. hook needle, a

rotatable work supporting'hom, a looper having an elongated needle receiving opening and mounted to turn on the horn to lay the thread I in the hook of the needle, and means for moving a the needle laterally when in the work .to feedthe same.

29. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and workfeeding devices including a straight hook needle, a rotatable shoe supporting horn, and means for actuating the needle including mechanism for moving the needle laterally when in the work to feed the same.

30. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a straight hook needle, a rotatable shoe supporting horn, a needle bar, a carrier pivoted at its upper end and hiwhich the needle bar reciprocates toward and.

r to clamp the workadjacent the horn and'close to the'needle when the latter is making its loop drawing and work penetrating'strokes.

32. A McKay type shoe sewing machine hav-, ing, in combination, stitch forming devices including a straight hook needle, a needle looper,

a shoe supporting horn in which the' looper is mounted, a presser-foot operating at the same side of the work as the needle to clamp and re-,

lease the work on the horn, a reciprocating needie bar, a carrier in which the needle bar reciprocates, means for actuating the carrier while the needle engales the work to feed the same, and mechanisinfor reciprocating theneedle bar tocause the needle to enter the horn while the presser-foot clamps the work against'the horn and to withdraw partly vfrom thehorn before feeding the work,

A o e ne shoe ew ns ing, in combination, stitch forming devices including a straight hook needle, a needlelooper havingv asurface to provide support forthe work against "the thrust of the needle,a pre'sser-foot operating at the same side, of the work asfithe needle to clamp and release the work, and mechanism for actuating the needle first in one direction while the'w'ork'is clamped to penetrate the work, and then in the reverse direction while the work is released to relieve the looper from the pressure of the work before the looper acts to lay' the thread in the needle hook.

.34. AMcKay type shoe sewing machinehaving, in combination, stitch forming devices including, a straight hook needle, a rotary needle looper having a-needleireceiving opening and a surface the needle opening to provide support for the work against the thrust of the needle, a presser-foot operating at the same side of the work as the needle to clamp and release the work, and mechanisms for actuating. the needle first in one direction to penetrate the work" and then in a reverse direction while the work is released to relieve the looper from the pressure of the work, and for rotating the looper to lay the thread inthe-needle hook after the needle has been actuated to relieve the looper.

35..A McKay type shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a straight hook needle, a rotary needle looper having a needle receiving opening and a surface surrounding the needle opening to provide support for the work against the thrust of the needle, a presser-foot operating at the same a side of the work as the needle to clamp and release the work, and mechanism for actuating the needle first in one direction to penetrate the work and then in a reverse direction while the work is released to relieve the looper from the pressure of the work, and for rotating the looper while the looper is relieved in one direction to face of the work while the needle is feeding the work, and means'for actuating the needle 'including mechanism for moving the needle latererally when in, thework tofeed the same.

37. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle, a rotat-' able work supporting horn, and a gage pivotally mounted on the horn constructed and arranged to engage a shoe part on the inside of the shoe outside of the seam line and determine the location of the seam with relation to the edge of the insole, the gage being held from rotation within limits and unaflected by the rotation of the horn;

I 38. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type machine havhorn.

39. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle, a. rotatable work supporting horn, a. looper, and a gage mounted on the looper to turn within fixed limits and unaifected by movements oi the horn.

40. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle, in rotatable work supporting horn, a looper mounted to turn on the horn, means for rotating the looper within ilxed limits and independently 01' movements of the horn, and a gauge mounted to turn on the looper within limits and unaffected by movement of the horn.

41. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type having, in combination, stitch iorming and work ieedingdevioes including a hook needle, 1; rotatable work supporting horn, a looper mounted to turn upon the horn the looper being provided with a needle receiving slot. means for moving the needle laterally along the-slot when in the work to feed the latter. and means for holding the looper with the slot in the line of feed during the lateral feeding movement of the needle and unaffected by the movement of the horn.

BERNARD T. LEVEQUE.