US2198064A - Sleeved lining for overcoats - Google Patents

Description

April 23, 1940. c. B. SHANE SLEEVED LINING FOR OVERCOATS Filed March 20, 1959 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 April 23, 1940. c. B. SHANE SLEEVED LINING FOR OVEROOATS Filed March 20, 1939 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 PatentedApr.23 1940 UNIT-1 1D STATES fPArsnr f suisvsn moron ovmcos-rs oonmansmdvvum a nn- Application March 20,1930, Serial No. scams "1 by my, invention, as experience has demonstrated. The sleeved lining in question may be produced 'with less material; it is easy to assemble, and

requires no tailoring;'it affords entire freedom 1 of movement to the arms of the wearer;- and the lining sleeves hang smoothlywith littleor. no tendency for the material to bunch when the wearer executes various movements of the arms. These considerations become increasingly imporgo tant by reasonof the detachable assembly of such a sleeved lining within an overcoat or topcoat. Under such conditions of use, it is impossible to provide frequent points of connection, consequently bunching or shifting of the body L lining and its sleeves within the'conflnement af- 3 f'orded by the outer coat, is greatly to be avoided. An exempliflcation of my invention is set forth in the accompanying drawings-in the manner following:

Figure l is a view of an overcoat or topcoat, looking toward the inside, showing the body lining therein partly detached, one of the lining sleeves being positioned to the outside of the coat sleeve into which it is designed to fit; 9 Fig. 2 is a ,side elevation of the body lining, detached from the coat, shown as it. would appear when draped over a human figure;

Fig. 3 is a development view of two of the component sections for the right side of the body liningthe back yoke and back sleeve;

49 Fig. 4 is a similar view of the two remaining.

sections for the same side of the body liningthe front yoke and front sleeve; and Figs. '5, 6 "and 7 are views similar to Fig. 2, showing the body lining from, respectively, (a) a quarter front position, (b) the quarter rear (with one sleeve partly uplifted), and (0) the,

quarter front (with one sleeve outwardly ex;- tended).

The present topcoat or overcoat which. is

59 made from suitable fabric material, comprises opposed fronts 8 each having an'associated facing Q which may extend for thefull length of the garment, as is customary. A connection line 55 ll which extends downwardly from the shoulderregion for a substantial distance lies inwardly of the facing edge H which is remote from the free edge of the garment front. The facing may also be Joinedto a tape (not shown) which is 60 attached invisibly to the front along a line which when fitted into the sleeves of'the associated lies'inwardly of the facing ed'ge ll. 'Ihepor- 1 tion of the facing which is thus free forms in effect a flap tothe under side of which-is secured-a second tape- (not shown) which carries a row of metallic hook fasteners 12. This row .1 of fasteners lies beneath the flap so as to be concealed from view, and isalso located relatively close to the sfltching'line Hi, all as explained at length in my Patent No. 2,128,193,

granted August 23, 1938.

The garment body lining L is equipped around its edges (except the bottom) with a row of complementary hook fasteners [4 adapted to interengage the row of fasteners I! in response to operationsv of a slide as is customary. Such a lining may accordingly be secured in place by a connection which is continuous and also detachable, permitting the body lining to be removed whenever desired. It is expected that such a garment will be constructed with thego usual arm holes, sleeves i5, collar, pockets, etc. My present invention is directed toward the combination with a removable body lining of the general kind just set forth, of a pair of sleeves constructed and'assembled in the manner now to be described. In the sense that such sleeves.

topcoat or overcoat serve as linings therefor, .theymay properly be referred to as sleeve linings, but for convenience, when considering only the body lining in its entirety, they will'be described simply as sleeves.

Each sleeve is open laterally at its upper end so as to join with. the arm hole opening in the body lining. The connection between the sleeve and body lining is not continuous, however, and need not be owingito the special conditions s'urrounding use of the outer garment in question.

In order to serve the present requirements, I prefer to employ between the body lining and sleeve an extended connection l9 over or upon the shoulder, and a spot connection 20 therebelow, preferably toward the front.

The lining and sleeves therefor are specially formed for mutual cooperation to provide-therebetween an extended stitched connection which is disposed continuously in a line over the shoulder, leaving the sleeve and lining disconnected elsewhere except perhaps at one point adjacent the armpit. To accomplish this with a minimum of material and labor, and'also to fit the sleeve to the lining in such a way as to afford the maximum freedom of movement, yet pre serve asmooth and tailored. effect irrespective of the sleeve movements relativeto the lining, 5 the upper right side of the lining and proximate sleeve are produced from sections such as are illustrated in Figs. 3 and-i. Other identical but reversed sections (not shown) are employed for I the upper left side. slows so sections A and B, respectively, are adapted to be connected along the outer sleeve side by a seam a which extends continuously for the full sleeve length and laterally over the shoulder to a point D which is adjacent the lining edge in the collar region. The section. edges c which define the inner sleeve seam are extended substantially straightto facilitates continuous line of connection to a point d which lies upon the lowermost side of the armhole. Upwardly and beyond that point the inside edge of the front sleeve section curves inwardly and upwardly as at e to continue in a substantially straight line I to the point b where the outer edge of this sleeve section alsoterminates. In the case of the back sleeve section, however, the inside edge e, beyond the point d, is inset slightly at a. proceeding thence upwardly and 'angularly through a substantially straight line h to the top point b where the outer edge of this sleeve section also terminates.

Coming now to the front and back yoke sections, denoted as C and D, respectively, it will be noted that the former, i. e.. section C, is so shaped in its lower portion as to provide a relatively short straight rear edge i terminating at an angular corner 1 from whence a sweeping forward and upward curve It proceeds to a short straight edge I which terminates at the point b. In the back yoke section D is provided a forward edge which is straight as at m in the lower portion, then rearwardly and upwardly curved as at 12 through its middle region, and finally straight again as at o in its upper portion to terminate at the point b.

The lines I and o. appearing in Figs. 3' and 4. are intended to represent seams produced by a stitching together of the yoke and sleeve sections, these seams, if desired, extending between folds of the Joined sections with narrow turned back flaps, as indicated by the dotted lines. In the completed body lining, each attached sleeve will be characterized by an outer seam a extending continuously for its full length and over the shoulder to a point adjacent the lining edge at the collar, each yoke section being Joined to the proximate sleeve section by a straight seam which extends convergingly relatively to the other so as to meet substantially at the terminus of the sleeve outer seam, i. e., at a point which is adjacent the collar edge of the lining. The angle of convergence, as viewed from above the shoulder, may be as great as 90, although from the side this angle may appear to be less (see Fig. 2). The presence of all such seams is effectively concealed when an outer yoke lining 2| is applied to the inner face of the body lining.

When the inner sleeve seam is completed by uniting the two edges c, the points d will lie upon the lowermost side of the armhole which extends upwardly therefrom to points where the two seams l ond o commence. The sleeve thus formed from two such sections whose edges are united along lines which lie to the inside and outside thereof is provided near its upper end with a lateral opening facing the armhole opening of the body lining, as indicated clearly in Figs. 2 and 7. Between the sleeve and lining there is a connection extending continuously for a limited distance over the shoulder, this connection being formed by upper extensions of the sleeve and yoke sections, all continuing to a point close to the lining edge at the collar, in the manner already explained. If desired, a further spot-connection Il may be located at a point a: (see Fig. 4) ad- Jacent the lowermost forward side of the armhole where it is removed from the extended connection over the shoulder, thus leaving free or unattached for the major portion of their length the sleeve and lining edges which extend around the arm at its pointv of iointure with the shoulder.

The lining-sleeve assembly as hereinbei'ore described may be permanent. It utilizes no metallic fasteners, and so will conform better to the figure and be more comfortable. Complete freedom is afforded for arm movements, without binding and without appreciable bunching of the fabric material. This is important becausethe sleeved lining is not an outerigarment, but rather a lining for an overcoat ortopcoat which is provided with sleeves of its own. If the sleeves of the lining were tobecome bunched or shifted out of place as the result of body movements, such an objectionable result would be magnified when the sleeved lining is fitted into and confined within an outer coat.

In Figs. 5, 6 and 7 I have sought to show how free the present lining-sleeve assembly is to accommodate itself to several of the positions it must assume when in use. A normal position is indicated in Fig. 5. In Fig. 6, one sleeve is bent and extended slightly forwardly with complete freedom inasmuch as its connection with the lining is confined to the shoulder area with a single spot-connection (not shown) near the armhole and forwardly thereof. In executing the movement necessary to reach this position the material of which the sleeve is made does not bunch noticeably at the shoulder. An outwardly extended position of the sleeve is illustrated in Fig. 7 where it will be noted the lack of any connection downwardly from the shoulder along the front (except at the one point conduces to comfort and ease in executing this movement.

I claim:

1. In an overcoat having sleeves attached thereto at the usual arm hole openings, a detachable body lining for said coat having sleeve lining portions, said sleeve lining portions having a tapered extension at their inner ends the side edgesof which are connected to said body lining and undersleeve sections the inner ends of which are free of attachment to said body lining from each side of said tapered extension, and said connection between said tapered extension and detachable body lining being along lines extending from the arm hole towards the neck of the coat, whereby freedom of movement in all directions is permitted between the sleeved coat and sleeved lining in use.

2. An overcoat having a body lining and sleeve lining portions, each of said lining portions have a shoulder extension and a connection along said extension with a shoulder portion of said body lining, said connection terminating at points on opposite sides of each extension at the armholes, and the undersleeve portion of each sleeve lining being free of attachment with the body lining from said terminal points of connection, whereby a localized shoulder suspension support for the sleeve lining portions is provided which will permit freedom of movement between the sleeved coat and sleeved lining in use without tailoring.

CONRAD B. SHANE.

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