US2195181A - Machine and method of producing elastic top stockings - Google Patents

Machine and method of producing elastic top stockings Download PDF

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Publication number
US2195181A
US2195181A US106650A US10665036A US2195181A US 2195181 A US2195181 A US 2195181A US 106650 A US106650 A US 106650A US 10665036 A US10665036 A US 10665036A US 2195181 A US2195181 A US 2195181A
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needles
yarn
knitting
stocking
elastic
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US106650A
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Mcadams Harry
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Nolde & Horst Co
NOLDE AND HORST Co
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Nolde & Horst Co
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B9/00Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B9/42Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles specially adapted for producing goods of particular configuration
    • D04B9/46Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles specially adapted for producing goods of particular configuration stockings, or portions thereof
    • D04B9/54Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles specially adapted for producing goods of particular configuration stockings, or portions thereof welts, e.g. double or turned welts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/106Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads

Definitions

  • the primary object of this invention is the 5 provision of improved means for knitting a stocking having an elastic top' which will effectively grip the leg of a wearer and remain in position without discomfort.
  • a further object of the-invention is the provision of an improved elastic topped stocking, such as adapted to be' worn by men, having an elastic top which is rather loosely knitted relative to the leg of the stocking and having elastic means therein which will grip the leg of the a wearer and hold the stocking in placevwithout discomfort and without stopping the blood circulation.
  • a further object of this invention is the provision of an improved stocking knitted after an improved method and upon an improved machine whereby the stockings may be continuously knitted in stringwork which stocking embodies an improved elastic top which will effectively and comfortably grip the leg of a wearer and hold the stocking in place.
  • Figure 1 is a fragmentary front elevation of a machine upon which the improved stocking may be knitted.
  • Figure 2 is a developed view of the needle, jack, and camset-up for the improved machine.
  • Figure 3 is a side elevation of the stocking showing diagrammatically the manner in which the elastic top of the stocking is knitted.
  • Figure 4 is a fragmentary perspective view showing the manner in which the elastic yarn is incorporated in the top portion of the stocking with the inelastic yarn.
  • Figure 5 is a plan view of the cylinder and latch ring assembly showing the main and auxiliary feeds, etc.
  • Figures 6 and 7 are diagrammatic developed views of the cam lug patternset-up upon the pattern drums of the improved machine.
  • Figure 8 is an enlarged outer view of a'portion of the fabric which may be knitted upon the machine using the set-up shown in Figure 2; the view showing the relative stitch arrangement in upon the same machine, and
  • Figure 9 is a view similar to Figure 8, but showing the inside of the fabric.
  • Figure 10 is a developed view showing another 5 needle, jack and cam set-up for the knitting of an elastic topped stocking which is diiferently knitted at the juncture of the elastic top and leg of the stocking.
  • ure 11 is an enlarged fragmentary view showing the stitch arrangement of the fabric as knitted with the needle set-up shown in Figure 10 and wherein at the juncture of the elastic top and leg portions of the stocking certain tuck stitches are provided for the purpose of producing a neat and effective connecting section between the elastic top and leg portion.
  • Figure 12 is a fragmentary front elevation of a modified form of fabric.
  • Figure 13 is an inside view of the fab in Figure 12.
  • the letter A may generally designate the improved knitting machine which includes a supporting frame B having a cylinder C rotatably supported thereon.
  • the machine is generally of the type set forth in my copending application Serial No. 730,666, filed June 14, 1934, now Patent No. 2,164,119, and as set forth in that application is adaptable to be used for the knitting of "color within color patterning in the leg or other portion of the stocking.
  • the machine includes a latch ring C having a main' feed arrangement B for the feed of diifercut yarns to the needles, and an auxiliary feed arrangement D thereon.
  • a set of needles E are provided upon the machine having a set of control jacks F associated therewith.
  • Wrap patterning means G is provided for the feeding of 40 different fancy wrap yarns to the needles in a selected color within 0010): arrangement, as has been more specifically described and set forth in my above identified co-pending application.
  • the machine may or may not be used with the wrap patterning arrangement, since the primary object of-this invention is the provision of an improved elastic topped stocking.
  • the machine furthermore includes a cam a c- 5o tuating pattern drum H and a yarn feed finger controlling pattern drum K.
  • the stockings K are lmitted in continuous stringwork, and each has an improved elastic top.
  • the machine due to the manner of knitting the u 0 shown so stocking against slipping down upon the leg.
  • the inelastic yarn stitches in the top of the stocking are relatively loose, inasmuch as the stitches are interknitted upon a less number of needles of the cylinder of the machine than the number of needles utilized in knitting the leg portion of the stocking.
  • the number of needles used in knitting the top of the stocking may be optional. That is, alternate needles of the cylinder maybe utilized for knitting the top of the stocking, whereas all the needles are utilized in knitting the leg of the stocking, or, as is preferred, only one third of the needles (every third needle) may be used in knitting the top of the stocking, whereas all of the needles are utilized in knitting the leg of the stocking.
  • the elastic yarn in every course of the inelastic yarn in the top of the stocking, but only in alternate courses, or, if desired, in any desired spacing.
  • An additional factor is the interknitting of the elastic yarn together with the inelastic yarn in each stitch in each of the courses wherein the elastic yarn is knitted in the top of the stocking.
  • the cam actuation of the jacks and needles may best be described in sequence.
  • the same is knitted at the regular feed with the heel and toe yarn 20, shown in Figure 2 of the drawings, on every needle of the machine.
  • the loopers round extends for any desired number of courses and at the end, the main body or leg yarn 2
  • the needle actuating cam 23 is thrown into action by a leverage mechanism 24 shown in Figure 1 of the drawings, which in turn is controlled off of the pattern drum H, in accordance with the cam set-up shown in Figure 6 of the drawings, as will be subsequently mentioned.
  • This cam 23 elevates all of the cylinder needles in' order to shed the stitches thereof below the latches of the needles, preparatory to burying the cylinder needles which are inactive during knitting of the rib top. In the present machine only every third needle is utilized in knitting the top of the stocking.
  • Cam 25, which is operated mechanism 26, is thereafter used to lower all of the cylinder needles which have been elevated by the cam 23, to their normal position, with the stitches still hung on the needles but externally on the closed latches of the needles.
  • cam 21 which is operated off of a leveragemechanism 28, shown in Figure 1, is throwninto position for elevating certain jacks 30- which are disposed below every third needle of the machine, and which jacks have upper long butts and short lower butts.
  • the cam2l operates on the'upper long butts and elevates said jacks 30 for throwing the needles which are active during knitting of the elastic top upwardly into position for taking yarn. In this position I knit for four courses with the body yam 2
  • auxiliary feed yarn 35 is thrown into action by its finger shown in Figure 2 of the drawings, and at the same time the auxiliary knitting cam block 36 is also thrown into position for actuating the needles of the machine at the auxiliary feed.
  • This auxiliary block is operated by leverage mechanism 31, shown in Figure l of the drawings, controlled off of drum H.
  • is now thrown out of action thru its leverage mechanism controlled from drum J, and the heel and toe yarn 20 remains in action.
  • Channel cam 40 is then thrown into position to act on the needles to be buried (inactive during knitting of the top of the stocking); this cam 40 being actuated oil? of the leverage mechanism 4
  • the elastic yarn 50 is thrown into position for feeding onto every third needle or the machine, and together with the inelastic heel and toe yarn 20 knits on said every third needle in alternate courses. Both feedsof the machine are active; the yarns 20 and 50 feeding at the main feed, and the inelastic yarns 35 feeding at the auxiliary feed.
  • are ordinary inelastic yarns, while the yarn 50 is elastic commercial Lastex. Cams-21, 23, 25, and 40 are of course retracted as the first course of the clastic top of the stocking is knitted.
  • the manner of adding the other needles to take the yarns, and the change of yarns, atthe juncture of the top of the stocking and the leg may be variously accomplished.
  • the cam 55 after knitting the top of the stocking, but while still utilizing the yarns 20, II and 50 is thrown into action by the mechanism 56 shown in Figure 1, operating 01? of the pattern drum H, for the purpose of elevating the other jacks 3
  • are below one of he normally inactive needles during top stocking knitting, and their elevation by the cam 55 throws the needles .thereabove into position for also taking the same yarns at the main and auxiliary feeds as every third needle of the machine does v during knitting of the major portion of the top of the stocking.
  • the machine may then make any desired number of revolutions. Preferably one, two, or three revolutions are suflicient, and
  • the stitches formed in the course designated at 82 are formed on two out of every three needles of the knitting machine, that is, after the cam 55 has gone into action to elevate'the jacks 3
  • This course 82 is-formed of both the yarns 20 and 50.
  • the next course 83 is produced on two out of every three needles of the machine, with every third needle buried, the same as the preceding course, butthe elastic yarn does not appear in this course, inasmuch as it is knitted out of the auxiliaryyarn 35.
  • the next course designated at 84 is knitted the same as the course 82.
  • Figures 12 and 13 show by way of modification fabric which is knitted with the top drawn a little tighter than the top of the stocking above described, inasmuch as the top of the stocking is knitted on every other needle (instead of every third needle).
  • the fabric shown in Figures 12 and 13 has the courses 90 formed of-an inelastic yarn ill and an elastic yarn50 'at the main feed of the machine, and the'alternate courses 9
  • every needle of the machine is brought into play and takes the yarns as shown in Figures 12 and 13, although some variation at this juncture point may be made if desired.
  • Figure 10 is shown a developed needle and jack cam set-up for the knitting of fabric having elastic incorporated as above described, but in which set-up the cam arrangement is relatively simpler and capable of producing tuck stitches atthe juncture of the leg with the top of the stocking, so as to obviate large openings occurring at this section, as shown in Figure 11 of the drawings.
  • the yarn I08 is not only fed to every third needle utilized during knitting of the previously knitted courses in the top, but the adjacent needle, normally idle during knitting of the top, is elevated.
  • These two needles that is, the regular every third needle I01 on which knitting is effected for producing the major portion of thetop of thestocking and the needle I08 to be elevated for forming the tuck stitches, are elevated as shown in the right hand portion of Figure for taking the yarn I06.
  • This elevation of the needles I08 is accomplished by means of a cam I09 acting on the special jacks H0.
  • the cam III also at this location, acts on the special jacks II2 to'elevate the needles I01.
  • the needles I08 It is only on the needles I08 that the tuck stitch is knitted at the auxiliary feed.
  • the cam II3, shown in Figure 10 elevates the needles I01 for taking the heel and toe yarn IOI and the elastic yarn I02, and it is noted that the needles I08 are not elevated at this regular feed.
  • the regular stitches I20 are produced, and a tuck stitch I2I is produced which is not thrown off at the next course knitted at the regular feed.
  • the elastic yarn is withdrawn at the start of knitting upon all of the needles of the-cylinder, but the yarns I00 and IM are knitted on part of the needlesfor approximately four courses: shown at I3I, and then the leg yarn I33 is dropped into action upon all of the needles.
  • the stitch cams at the auxiliary and main feeds need but little description, since their function will be apparent to one skilled in the art, from the above description and from the illustration in Figure 10.
  • the stitch cam block I40 has a cam edge MI 'in position to lower all of the needles which are at the normal level, that is, those needles not elevated by the cams I09 and III, and this cam I40 also has a cam edge I42 which lowers the needles elevated by the cams I09 and I I I.
  • cam I45 normally lowers all needles at the normal level, except those elevated by the cam H3.
  • the rest of the stitch cam set-up is conventional.
  • the lugs on the lines 203 through leverage mechanism are used to actuate, the cam 25.
  • the lugs on the line 204 are used to actuate through leverage mechanism 201, shown in Figure 1, the yarn guide wires or members as has been described in my above identified co-pending application, but which need not necessarily be used with the present invention.
  • Lugs along the line 208 are used to actuate certain feed fingers forming a part of my above identified co-pending application; the lugs along the line 209, through leverage mechanism, are used to actuate the cam 23; lugs along the line 2 I 0 are used to actuate the auxiliary knitting block 36; the lugs along the line 2 are used to actuate the cam 60; the lugs along the line 2I2 are used to actuate the cam 55; the lugs along the line 2I3 are used to actuate the cam I0; the lugs along the line 2I4 are used to actuate the binder and cutter mechanism, as has been described in my above identified co-pending application, and the lugs along the line 2I5 are used to actuate the auxiliary feedyflnger which feeds the yarn 35'.
  • Figure 7 is shown the pattern lug lay-out on the drum J for actuating the feed fingers at the regular feed.
  • the ings along the line 2I6 are used to actuate the feedwfinger for the silk leg yarn 2
  • the other lugs along the other lines may be used for actuatingfeed fingers for other yarns, if desired.
  • a circular line of needles a main feed having non-elastic and elastic yarns thereat, an auxiliary feed having a non-elastic yarn thereat, means during a-single revolution of the cylinder to produce two courses by feeding both the non-elastic and elastic yarns at the regular feed and non-elastic yarn only at the auxiliary feed upon the needles of the knitting machine, means at each of said feeds for interknitting in fabric the yarns so fed to said needles, and means for dividing the needles of each of said feeds in a selected manner for knitting a portion of the stocking upon only occasional needles throughout the circle of needles.
  • a circular line of needles a main feed having non-elastic and elastic yarns thereat, an auxiliary feed having a non- I elastic yarn, means during alternate revolutions of the cylinder to feed both the non-elastic and the elastic yarns of the main feed to alternate needles of the cylinder, means during the other revolutions of the cylinder to feed the non-elastic yarn of the auxiliary feed to the same alternate needles to produce a tubular fabric together with the yarns of the main feed, and meansfor feed- .ing a leg knitting yarn to all of the circular line of needles to knit a leg integrally with the top of the stocking.
  • a circular linepof needles means for feeding an elastic yarn only to regularly and recurrently spaced needles of the cylinder during alternate revolutions of the cylinder, means for feeding in inelastic yarn to said recurrently spaced needles during the remaining revolutions of the cylinder to produce together with said elastic yarn a stocking top wherein alternate courses are inelastic and the remaining courses elastic with a two-way stretch, and means for knitting a leg portion of a stocking upon all of the needles of the cylinder and integrally connected with said top.
  • the method ofknitting a stocking which consists in knitting a seamless top 'of.
  • both elastic and inelastic yarns in interknitted relation to produce a two-way stretch therein, subsequently knitting a leg connecting portion having tuck stitches in continuance with the spaces between the wale lines of the top and having smaller stitches than the top in continuance with the wale lines of the top, and subsequently knitting a leg portion in integrally connected relation with said connecting portion wherein the stitches are appreciably smaller than the stitches of either the top or connecting portion.
  • the method of knitting a tubular stocking upon a circular line of cylinder needles which consists of knitting a top Portion of inelastic yarn upon the circular line of cylinder needles by feeding said inelastic yarn to every third needle of the cylinder, interknitting with the stitches of relatively spaced courses an elastic yarnunder sufiicient tension to draw the stitches of. the inelastic yarn together for producing a simulated rib top of plain knitting, and subsequently feeding inelastic yarn to all of the cylinde'r needles to produce an integrally connected leg portion.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Socks And Pantyhose (AREA)

Description

March 26, 1940. McADAMS 2,195,181
MACHINE AND METHOD OF PRGDUCING ELASTIC TOP STOCKINGS Filed Oct. 20, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR.
Hal-P M AdEJTLE ATTORNEYS.
March 26, 1940. H. MCADAMS MACHINE AND METHOD OF PRODUCING ELASTIC TOP STOCKINGS 2 t e e h Q v S t e e h s 8 Filed Oct. 20, 1936 INVENTOR.
Har'r' M Adams BY I QW ATTORNEYS.
March 26, 1940. c s' 2,195,181
MACHINE AND METHOD OF PRODUCING ELASTIC TOP STOCKINGS Filed Oct. 20, 1956 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR.
H arty M Ad arms ATTbRNEYs.
March 26, 1940. H. McADAMS 2,195,181
MACHINE AND METHOD OF PRODUCING ELASTIC TOP STOCKINGS Filed Oct. 20, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 l IT! I Z] 271*50 o w o Q) -i 'E E an. I
24/ [I3 "1 H 1, i
11 T E *1 li T: i 7 &
f I Q 7 INVENTOR.
'Harr PI -Adams BA ATTORNEYS.
March 26, 1940. H. McADAMs 2,195,181
MACHINE AND METHOD OF PRODUCING ELASTIC TOP STOCKINGS Filed Oct. 20, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR. HEI'IB Pi -Adams BY M w l'TQRNEYI I March 26, 1940. H, Mc -A s 2,195,181
MACHINE AND METHOD OF PRODUCING ELASTIC TOP STOCKINGS Filed Oct. 20, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 'i. -llIl- P121: zf/an of 6 2 a 1290 I 1 )fk INVENTLOR. HEI'IH M AEI ELTI'LE ATTO R N EYS.
March 26,1940. I H. MCADAMS 2,195,181
MACHINE AND METHOD OF PRODUCING ELASTIC TOP STOCKINGS Filed 0011. 20, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet 7 I A 1 V I h v 4 I 4 /3 /JZ AWE 1 11 T 1 Pave/70 INVENTOR.
H a'rr M Adam-1s ATTORNEYS.
Patented Mar. 26,
. UNITED, STATES MACHINE AND METHOD OF PRODUdING ELASTIC TOP STOCKINGS Harry McAdams, Reading, Pa., assignor to The Nolde and Horst Company, Reading, Pa., a
corporation Application October 20, 1936, Serial No. 106,650
8 Claims.
-This invention relates to improvements in methods and machines for knitting improved elastic topped stockings. v I
The primary object of this invention is the 5 provision of improved means for knitting a stocking having an elastic top' which will effectively grip the leg of a wearer and remain in position without discomfort.
A further object of the-invention is the provision of an improved elastic topped stocking, such as adapted to be' worn by men, having an elastic top which is rather loosely knitted relative to the leg of the stocking and having elastic means therein which will grip the leg of the a wearer and hold the stocking in placevwithout discomfort and without stopping the blood circulation.
A further object of this invention is the provision of an improved stocking knitted after an improved method and upon an improved machine whereby the stockings may be continuously knitted in stringwork which stocking embodies an improved elastic top which will effectively and comfortably grip the leg of a wearer and hold the stocking in place.
- Other objects and advantages of this invention will be apparent during the course of the following detailed description.
In the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, and wherein similar reference characters designate corresponding parts throughout the several views,
Figure 1 is a fragmentary front elevation of a machine upon which the improved stocking may be knitted.
Figure 2 is a developed view of the needle, jack, and camset-up for the improved machine.
Figure 3 is a side elevation of the stocking showing diagrammatically the manner in which the elastic top of the stocking is knitted.
Figure 4 is a fragmentary perspective view showing the manner in which the elastic yarn is incorporated in the top portion of the stocking with the inelastic yarn. i
Figure 5 is a plan view of the cylinder and latch ring assembly showing the main and auxiliary feeds, etc.
Figures 6 and 7 are diagrammatic developed views of the cam lug patternset-up upon the pattern drums of the improved machine. Figure 8 is an enlarged outer view of a'portion of the fabric which may be knitted upon the machine using the set-up shown in Figure 2; the view showing the relative stitch arrangement in upon the same machine, and
the top and leg of the stocking and at the junc-' ture of the elastic top and leg.
Figure 9 is a view similar to Figure 8, but showing the inside of the fabric. I
Figure 10 is a developed view showing another 5 needle, jack and cam set-up for the knitting of an elastic topped stocking which is diiferently knitted at the juncture of the elastic top and leg of the stocking.
ure 11 is an enlarged fragmentary view showing the stitch arrangement of the fabric as knitted with the needle set-up shown in Figure 10 and wherein at the juncture of the elastic top and leg portions of the stocking certain tuck stitches are provided for the purpose of producing a neat and effective connecting section between the elastic top and leg portion.
Figure 12 is a fragmentary front elevation of a modified form of fabric.
Figure 13 is an inside view of the fab in Figure 12.
In the drawings, wherein for the purpose of illustration are shown preferred and modified forms of the invention, the letter A may generally designate the improved knitting machine which includes a supporting frame B having a cylinder C rotatably supported thereon. The machine is generally of the type set forth in my copending application Serial No. 730,666, filed June 14, 1934, now Patent No. 2,164,119, and as set forth in that application is adaptable to be used for the knitting of "color within color patterning in the leg or other portion of the stocking. To that end the machineincludes a latch ring C having a main' feed arrangement B for the feed of diifercut yarns to the needles, and an auxiliary feed arrangement D thereon. A set of needles E are provided upon the machine having a set of control jacks F associated therewith. Wrap patterning means G is provided for the feeding of 40 different fancy wrap yarns to the needles in a selected color within 0010): arrangement, as has been more specifically described and set forth in my above identified co-pending application.
The machine may or may not be used with the wrap patterning arrangement, since the primary object of-this invention is the provision of an improved elastic topped stocking.
The machine furthermore includes a cam a c- 5o tuating pattern drum H and a yarn feed finger controlling pattern drum K.
The stockings K are lmitted in continuous stringwork, and each has an improved elastic top. The machine due to the manner of knitting the u 0 shown so stocking against slipping down upon the leg. To
-that end the inelastic yarn stitches in the top of the stocking are relatively loose, inasmuch as the stitches are interknitted upon a less number of needles of the cylinder of the machine than the number of needles utilized in knitting the leg portion of the stocking. The number of needles used in knitting the top of the stocking may be optional. That is, alternate needles of the cylinder maybe utilized for knitting the top of the stocking, whereas all the needles are utilized in knitting the leg of the stocking, or, as is preferred, only one third of the needles (every third needle) may be used in knitting the top of the stocking, whereas all of the needles are utilized in knitting the leg of the stocking. In addition, it is preferred not to place the elastic yarn in every course of the inelastic yarn in the top of the stocking, but only in alternate courses, or, if desired, in any desired spacing. An additional factor is the interknitting of the elastic yarn together with the inelastic yarn in each stitch in each of the courses wherein the elastic yarn is knitted in the top of the stocking.
The cam actuation of the jacks and needlesmay best be described in sequence. Starting with the knitting of the loopers round at the end of the stocking toe, the same is knitted at the regular feed with the heel and toe yarn 20, shown in Figure 2 of the drawings, on every needle of the machine. The loopers round extends for any desired number of courses and at the end, the main body or leg yarn 2| is also fed to all of the needles of the knitting machine in addition to the heel and toe yarn 20, in order to prevent a run-back into the loopers round, because on the next move of the machine the needles which are inactive during knitting of the top of the next stocking are buried.
The needle actuating cam 23 is thrown into action by a leverage mechanism 24 shown in Figure 1 of the drawings, which in turn is controlled off of the pattern drum H, in accordance with the cam set-up shown in Figure 6 of the drawings, as will be subsequently mentioned. This cam 23 elevates all of the cylinder needles in' order to shed the stitches thereof below the latches of the needles, preparatory to burying the cylinder needles which are inactive during knitting of the rib top. In the present machine only every third needle is utilized in knitting the top of the stocking.
Cam 25, which is operated mechanism 26, is thereafter used to lower all of the cylinder needles which have been elevated by the cam 23, to their normal position, with the stitches still hung on the needles but externally on the closed latches of the needles. At the same time cam 21 which is operated off of a leveragemechanism 28, shown in Figure 1, is throwninto position for elevating certain jacks 30- which are disposed below every third needle of the machine, and which jacks have upper long butts and short lower butts. The cam2l operates on the'upper long butts and elevates said jacks 30 for throwing the needles which are active during knitting of the elastic top upwardly into position for taking yarn. In this position I knit for four courses with the body yam 2|,
off of a leverageas above described, in orderto crowd the stitches at the end of the loopers round preparatory to dropping the needles which are inactive during knitting of the elastic top. This yarn 2| of course knits on all of the needles of the machine notwithstanding that the cam 21 has elevated every third needle, and these four courses comprise the selvage.
In the next course the auxiliary feed yarn 35 is thrown into action by its finger shown in Figure 2 of the drawings, and at the same time the auxiliary knitting cam block 36 is also thrown into position for actuating the needles of the machine at the auxiliary feed. This auxiliary block is operated by leverage mechanism 31, shown in Figure l of the drawings, controlled off of drum H. The binding yarn (body yarn) 2| is now thrown out of action thru its leverage mechanism controlled from drum J, and the heel and toe yarn 20 remains in action. Channel cam 40 is then thrown into position to act on the needles to be buried (inactive during knitting of the top of the stocking); this cam 40 being actuated oil? of the leverage mechanism 4| shown in Figure l of the drawings. It should be remembered that the cam 21 was previously thrown into action to elevate every third needle, so that the cam 40 is now in position to act in burying the other two needles of each group of three needles. The selvage of the stocking is now knitted for approximately thirty-six courses on every third needle of the cylinder machine. This is ordinarily waste, except for the part which is sewed inside of the top of the stocking (as shown at 46 in Figure 3 of the drawings) to form the welt. Of course the welt, may be formed otherwise than in this manner.
In the next move of the pattern drum the elastic yarn 50 is thrown into position for feeding onto every third needle or the machine, and together with the inelastic heel and toe yarn 20 knits on said every third needle in alternate courses. Both feedsof the machine are active; the yarns 20 and 50 feeding at the main feed, and the inelastic yarns 35 feeding at the auxiliary feed. The yarns 20 and 2| are ordinary inelastic yarns, while the yarn 50 is elastic commercial Lastex. Cams-21, 23, 25, and 40 are of course retracted as the first course of the clastic top of the stocking is knitted. This top continues through any desired number of courses, preferably two hundred and forty, and of course it can readily be understood from the set-up above described that the elastic yarn is knitted in every stitch in alternate courses of the top of the stocking, but of course the top of the stocking is only knitted upon every third needle of the cylinder. The auxiliary feed yarn 35 and the feed yarn 20 at the main feed are heavier than the leg yarn 2|. The looseness of stitches is due to knitting on every third needle of the machine. The fact that the yarns are heavier than the leg yarn and that the elastic yarn is only-knitted in. alternate courses, but on every stitch in each course in which it is knitted, gives the top of the stocking not only a very efficient lateral and longitudinal elasticity, but gives it a mock rib eflect.
The manner of adding the other needles to take the yarns, and the change of yarns, atthe juncture of the top of the stocking and the leg may be variously accomplished. In the set-1' shown, the cam 55 after knitting the top of the stocking, but while still utilizing the yarns 20, II and 50 is thrown into action by the mechanism 56 shown in Figure 1, operating 01? of the pattern drum H, for the purpose of elevating the other jacks 3|, which have long butts at th ir lower ends. These jacks 3| are below one of he normally inactive needles during top stocking knitting, and their elevation by the cam 55 throws the needles .thereabove into position for also taking the same yarns at the main and auxiliary feeds as every third needle of the machine does v during knitting of the major portion of the top of the stocking. The machine may then make any desired number of revolutions. Preferably one, two, or three revolutions are suflicient, and
of course both feeds are active and the elasticyarn 50 is also fed to the needles thus elevated.
t should beremembered that onenedle'in every ree, still buried. This needle is elevated by the cam 60, which is thrown into action 011 of leverage mechanism fil shown in Figure 1 of the drawings, operating oil? of pattern drum H, and now all ofthe needles of the machine are in position for taking the yarns at the main and auxiliary feeds. One or more courses may thus be knitted utilizing both feeds of the machine, with the yarns 20, 35 and 50 active. Preferably only one course is thus knitted and then the auxiliary cam block 36 is thrown out of action; the heel and. toe yarn 20 is thrown out of action and also the auxiliary feed yarn 35 and the elastic yarn 50. The body yarn 2|, which is preferably of silk, is thrown into action. This above the stitch cam arrangement at the main 7 This is of.
feed, in order that they may idle. course conventional in that the heel andtoe are both knitted upon the short butt needles. The leg or body yarn 2| is of course retracted and the heel and toe yarn 20 used at these locations.
At completion of knitting the heel and toe the cam 25 is thrown into action by the means above described to lower the long butt cylinder needles preparatory to full circular knitting. At the end of the reciprocatory toe knitting the loopers round is again knitted in the manner above described and the cycle is completed. In this manner the stockings are continuously knitted in stringwork.
In Figure 3 of the drawings the heavy horizontal lines 15 designate the courses in which the elastic yarn is knitted, and the lighter horizontal lines 16 designate those courses which are formed solely by the inelastic auxiliary yarn 35.
In Figure 4 is more clearly designated in full lines the knitting of the courses out of the elastic also shown at 11 the manner of floating the elastic 'yarn from course to course wherein the same is knitted.
Referring to Figures8 and 9 of the drawings therein is designated respectively the outside and inside of the seamless fabric knitted in the manner above described. The numerals designate the various yarns 20, 2 I, 35 and 50. The knitting proceeds in the direction indicated by the arrow and it isv thus seen that every alternate course designated at has both the inelastic yarn 2|] and the elastic yarn 50 knitted together in every stitch thereof; the elastic yarn being under sufflcient tension to prevent undue spreading of the stitches lengthwise and cross-wise. The alternate courses iii are knitted (in the top) out of the inelastic yarn 35 at the auxiliary feed. The stitches formed in the course designated at 82 are formed on two out of every three needles of the knitting machine, that is, after the cam 55 has gone into action to elevate'the jacks 3| and the needles thereabove as above described. This course 82 is-formed of both the yarns 20 and 50. The next course 83 is produced on two out of every three needles of the machine, with every third needle buried, the same as the preceding course, butthe elastic yarn does not appear in this course, inasmuch as it is knitted out of the auxiliaryyarn 35. The next course designated at 84 is knitted the same as the course 82. Thereafter all of the needles of the machine are thrown into action and the next four or five courses are knitted on every needle of the machine out of the heavier inelastic yarns 20 or 35, or out of both of said yarns. These yarns are of course heavier than the silk leg yarn 2|, andas shown in Figures 8 and 9 the silk leg yarn 2| is thereafter knitted on every needle of the machine, and is continued throughout the leg of the stocking, with the exception of the heel and toe, as above outlined.
Figures 12 and 13 show by way of modification fabric which is knitted with the top drawn a little tighter than the top of the stocking above described, inasmuch as the top of the stocking is knitted on every other needle (instead of every third needle). Thus the fabric shown in Figures 12 and 13 has the courses 90 formed of-an inelastic yarn ill and an elastic yarn50 'at the main feed of the machine, and the'alternate courses 9| are formed of merely'an elastic yarn 35 at the auxiliary feed of the machine. At the 'juncture of the top of the stocking with the leg portion 93 every needle of the machine is brought into play and takes the yarns as shown in Figures 12 and 13, although some variation at this juncture point may be made if desired. Preferably in order to draw the stitches tightly and pre- 1 As will be noted from Figures 1 and 2 of the drawings various cams, yarn fingers and yarn guide and control members are shown in dotted lines. These may be used upon the present machine when the latter has a set-up for the knitting of patterned wrap yarns. They need not be specifically described herein, but have the same characteristics as specifically set forth in my application' Serial No. 730,666, filed June 14, 1934.
In Figure 10 is shown a developed needle and jack cam set-up for the knitting of fabric having elastic incorporated as above described, but in which set-up the cam arrangement is relatively simpler and capable of producing tuck stitches atthe juncture of the leg with the top of the stocking, so as to obviate large openings occurring at this section, as shown in Figure 11 of the drawings.
In connection with the set-upshown in Figure 10, when knitting the elastic top of the stocking shown in the lower portion of Figure 11, everythird needle is utilized and .takes the body yarn I 00 at the auxiliary feed, and at the main feed the alternate courses are knitted out of the heel and toe yarn HH and the elastic yarn I02, in
the same manner as above described for the fabrics illustrated in Figures 8 and 9. The knitting of the top proceeds in substantially the same manner as above described for the needle set-up shown in Figure 2, so far as the top is concerned.
When we reach the course designated at I in Figure 11 of the drawings, at the auxiliary yarn feed, the yarn I08 is not only fed to every third needle utilized during knitting of the previously knitted courses in the top, but the adjacent needle, normally idle during knitting of the top, is elevated. These two needles, that is, the regular every third needle I01 on which knitting is effected for producing the major portion of thetop of thestocking and the needle I08 to be elevated for forming the tuck stitches, are elevated as shown in the right hand portion of Figure for taking the yarn I06. This elevation of the needles I08 is accomplished by means of a cam I09 acting on the special jacks H0. The cam III, also at this location, acts on the special jacks II2 to'elevate the needles I01. It is only on the needles I08 that the tuck stitch is knitted at the auxiliary feed. During the same revolution of the c linder that the needles I08 are elevated to take the auxiliary yarn for knitting the tuck stitches, the cam II3, shown in Figure 10, elevates the needles I01 for taking the heel and toe yarn IOI and the elastic yarn I02, and it is noted that the needles I08 are not elevated at this regular feed. Thus at the auxiliary feed, as shown in Figure 11, the regular stitches I20 are produced, and a tuck stitch I2I is produced which is not thrown off at the next course knitted at the regular feed. However, during the succeeding revolution of the cylinder the needles I08 are again elevated at the auxiliary feed and the stitches hung thereon are then cast off to start another row of tuck stitches upon the needles I08. It will thus be noted, from Figure 11, that at the juncture of the leg portion I30 of the stocking with the top of the stocking the stitches formed are quite closely packed together to present a neat section without openings. About four courses are knitted at this section; the tuck stitches of course extending through two tuck stitch courses, as shown in Figure 11. The elastic yarn is withdrawn at the start of knitting upon all of the needles of the-cylinder, but the yarns I00 and IM are knitted on part of the needlesfor approximately four courses: shown at I3I, and then the leg yarn I33 is dropped into action upon all of the needles.
The stitch cams at the auxiliary and main feeds need but little description, since their function will be apparent to one skilled in the art, from the above description and from the illustration in Figure 10. At the auxiliary feed the stitch cam block I40 has a cam edge MI 'in position to lower all of the needles which are at the normal level, that is, those needles not elevated by the cams I09 and III, and this cam I40 also has a cam edge I42 which lowers the needles elevated by the cams I09 and I I I.
At the regular feed a cam I45 normally lowers all needles at the normal level, except those elevated by the cam H3. The rest of the stitch cam set-up is conventional.
It will be noted in Figures 2 and 10 that certain butts on the needles and jacks are either short or medium length. This is to enable the insertion of the actuating camsr' The yarns, including the elastic yarn, are fed under some tension to needles of the machine.
It is of course understood that the stocking may be knitted otherwise than herein described,
such as upon a machine by first knitting the leg portion and then the top portion, and that the machine may be ofthe stationary cylinder type wherein the cam set-up rotates.
Referring to Figure 6 of the drawings, the same shows the cam lay-out for the pattern drum H. The lugs on the dot and dash line 200 actuate,
through the leverage mechanism above described,
the cam 40; the lugs on the dot and dash lines 20 I actuate, through leverage mechanism, the cam 21; the lugs on the dot and dash lines 202 actuate certain of the jack cams shown in dot and dash lines in Figure 2 of the drawings, but which are not necessary so far as the present invention is concerned, since it primarily relates to the provision of an elastic. garter top stocking. The lugs on the lines 203 through leverage mechanism, are used to actuate, the cam 25. The lugs on the line 204 are used to actuate through leverage mechanism 201, shown in Figure 1, the yarn guide wires or members as has been described in my above identified co-pending application, but which need not necessarily be used with the present invention. Lugs along the line 208 are used to actuate certain feed fingers forming a part of my above identified co-pending application; the lugs along the line 209, through leverage mechanism, are used to actuate the cam 23; lugs along the line 2 I 0 are used to actuate the auxiliary knitting block 36; the lugs along the line 2 are used to actuate the cam 60; the lugs along the line 2I2 are used to actuate the cam 55; the lugs along the line 2I3 are used to actuate the cam I0; the lugs along the line 2I4 are used to actuate the binder and cutter mechanism, as has been described in my above identified co-pending application, and the lugs along the line 2I5 are used to actuate the auxiliary feedyflnger which feeds the yarn 35'.
In Figure 7 is shown the pattern lug lay-out on the drum J for actuating the feed fingers at the regular feed. The ings along the line 2I6 are used to actuate the feedwfinger for the silk leg yarn 2|; the lugs alonglthe iline 2" are used to actuate the feed finger for the elastic yarn 50; the lugs along the line 2 I8 are used to actuate the feed finger for the heel and toe yarn 20. The other lugs along the other lines may be used for actuatingfeed fingers for other yarns, if desired.
From the foregoing description it is apparent that an improved machine has been produced for the automatic knitting of elastic topped stockings in stringwork after an improved method. The stocking itself has an elastic top which is distinctly different from anything heretofore produced. It has not only lateral but longitudinal elasticity suflicient to enable it to efiectively and comfortably grip the leg of the wearer and retain the stocking in place without slipping. The top of the stocking has a mock rib effect which is primarily produced because of the incorporation of the loose stitches, although the stitches are "'not loose enough to leave voids or openings, due
ment of parts may be made to the form of in vention herein shown and described, without departing from the spirit of the invention or the scope of the claims.
I claim: v
1. In a knitting machine a circular line of needles, a main feed having non-elastic and elastic yarns thereat, an auxiliary feed having a non-elastic yarn thereat, means during a-single revolution of the cylinder to produce two courses by feeding both the non-elastic and elastic yarns at the regular feed and non-elastic yarn only at the auxiliary feed upon the needles of the knitting machine, means at each of said feeds for interknitting in fabric the yarns so fed to said needles, and means for dividing the needles of each of said feeds in a selected manner for knitting a portion of the stocking upon only occasional needles throughout the circle of needles.
2. In a knitting machine a circular line of needles, a main feed having non-elastic and elastic yarns thereat, an auxiliary feed having a non- I elastic yarn, means during alternate revolutions of the cylinder to feed both the non-elastic and the elastic yarns of the main feed to alternate needles of the cylinder, means during the other revolutions of the cylinder to feed the non-elastic yarn of the auxiliary feed to the same alternate needles to produce a tubular fabric together with the yarns of the main feed, and meansfor feed- .ing a leg knitting yarn to all of the circular line of needles to knit a leg integrally with the top of the stocking.
3. In a knitting machine a circular linepof needles, means for feeding an elastic yarn only to regularly and recurrently spaced needles of the cylinder during alternate revolutions of the cylinder, means for feeding in inelastic yarn to said recurrently spaced needles during the remaining revolutions of the cylinder to produce together with said elastic yarn a stocking top wherein alternate courses are inelastic and the remaining courses elastic with a two-way stretch, and means for knitting a leg portion of a stocking upon all of the needles of the cylinder and integrally connected with said top. 1 '4. The method ofknitting a stocking which consists in knitting a seamless top 'of. both elastic and inelastic yarns in interknitted relation to produce a two-way stretch therein, subsequently knitting a leg connecting portion having tuck stitches in continuance with the spaces between the wale lines of the top and having smaller stitches than the top in continuance with the wale lines of the top, and subsequently knitting a leg portion in integrally connected relation with said connecting portion wherein the stitches are appreciably smaller than the stitches of either the top or connecting portion.
5. The method of knitting a tubular stocking upon a circular line of cylinder needles which consists of knitting a top Portion of inelastic yarn upon the circular line of cylinder needles by feeding said inelastic yarn to every third needle of the cylinder, interknitting with the stitches of relatively spaced courses an elastic yarnunder sufiicient tension to draw the stitches of. the inelastic yarn together for producing a simulated rib top of plain knitting, and subsequently feeding inelastic yarn to all of the cylinde'r needles to produce an integrally connected leg portion.
' 6. The method of producing a tubular stocking top which consists of feeding yarn to less than one-half of regularly recurrently spaced needles of a circular line of needles and during the knitting of occasional courses of the inelastic yarn feeding to the said regularly recurrently spaced needles an elastic yarn under suiiicient tension to draw the inelastic yarn stitches and wale lines of thetop together in simulation of a rib'top.
'7. The method of knitting a tubular stocking on a circular line of cylinder needles with integrally connected top and leg portions which consis'ts in feeding inelastic yarn. to every third needle of the circular line of needles with two needles in the circular line between the needles which receive said inelastic yarn inactive during knitting of the top, and during the knitting of regular rib top, subsequently adding another of the needles of the circular line of needles'which are inactive during knitting oi' the top to receive the elastic and inelastic yarns of the top to produce a joining portion between the-top andthe leg portion of the stocking of a limited number of courses, and subsequently knitting a leg portion of inelastic yarn upon all of \the needles of the circular line of needles;
8. The method of knitting a seam-less stocking fabric upon a circular line of cylinder needles which consists of knitting a leg portion of inelastic yarn upon all of the cylinder needles, and knitting a top welt portion of inelastic yarn upon only regularly spaced needles of the cylinder appreciably fewer in number'than the needles on which the leg portion is knitted and during the knitting of the top welt portion drawing the stitches longer and wider than the stitches in the leg portion, and also during the knitting of the top portion knitting in with the stitches thereof an elastic yarn under suflicient tension to normally draw the stitches of the top portion together in simulation of a rib top and to enable the said top portion to have a two-way stretch both circumferentially and longitudinally without unduly distorting the top portion inelastic yarn stitches.
HARRY McADAMS.
US106650A 1936-10-20 1936-10-20 Machine and method of producing elastic top stockings Expired - Lifetime US2195181A (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2503444A (en) * 1947-10-23 1950-04-11 Scott & Williams Inc Rib knitted fabric containing inlaid rubber and bare knitted rubber
US2881603A (en) * 1954-04-26 1959-04-14 Scott & Williams Inc Knitting machine and method of knitting

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2503444A (en) * 1947-10-23 1950-04-11 Scott & Williams Inc Rib knitted fabric containing inlaid rubber and bare knitted rubber
US2881603A (en) * 1954-04-26 1959-04-14 Scott & Williams Inc Knitting machine and method of knitting

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