US2185627A - Fabric and method of making same - Google Patents

Fabric and method of making same Download PDF

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US2185627A
US2185627A US155574A US15557437A US2185627A US 2185627 A US2185627 A US 2185627A US 155574 A US155574 A US 155574A US 15557437 A US15557437 A US 15557437A US 2185627 A US2185627 A US 2185627A
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fabric
bath
crepe
cellulose
temperature
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US155574A
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Cyril M Croft
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Celanese Corp
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Celanese Corp
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table

Definitions

  • This invention relates to crepe fabrics that contain a substantial amount of threads of an organic derivative of cellulose and to the method of making the same.
  • the invention relates particularly to the process of making crepe satins of all cellulose acetate yarns which are not delustered.
  • An object of the invention is the economic and expeditious production of crepe fabrics containing yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose, which fabric has the full luster of uncreped fabrics containing yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose.
  • Another objectof the invention is the production of an all cellulose acetate crepe satin that has a full luster.
  • crepe fabrics may be produced from highly twisted threads of an organic derivative of cellulose, the twist being inserted in the threads in the presence of steam, hot water, water vapor, plasticizers or other softening agents.
  • crepe fabrics made of yarns containing an organic derivative of cellulose and woven in the same way as the fabrics containing similar yarns may be shrunk to form the pebble or crepe effect, without any visible delustering by entering the fabric in a creping bath that is below the temperature of that required to produce commercially a crepe and then raising the temperature of the bath high enough to produce a crepe effect but below the boiling point of the bath.
  • the maximum temperature will vary according to the composition of the bath and the time of treatment, according tothe broad principle of his invention the maximum temperature may be substantially atbut below the boiling point of the creping bath.
  • I produce crepe fabrics, and especially crepe 'satins that contain a substantial amount of filaments or fibres of an organic derivative of cellulose and that have a full luster, by fabricating highly twisted yarns to a fabric, entering the fabric in a creping bath that is below a rapid or commer cial creping temperature and then raising the temperature to a maximum that is from 6 to 1 C. below the boiling point of the bath and preferably from to 3 C. below said boiling point.
  • a rapid or commercial creping temperature as used above is meant a temperature at which a substantial amount of crepe effect is produced in the fabric on immersion of the fabric in the bath for an hour.
  • the length of time for bring-- ing the bath and the fabric from the lower temperature up to the maximum temperature may vary according to the bulk of the fabric, the type of fabric being creped, and the composition of the treating bath. The most satisfactory results are obtained if this time interval is atleast minutes for every 5 C. rise in temperature, and preferably minutes for every 5 C. rise. length of time the fabric and the bath are held -at the maximum temperature will depend upon the degree of crepe desired, whether the fabric has had a prior embossing or delineating treatment and the maximum temperature of the bath. The higher the temperature of the bath the shorter will be the period required When the fabric has been embossed or has had a crepe pattern thereon a shorter period of treatment of the fabric at the maximum temperature is required.
  • This period of'maximum temperature may be from 10 minutes to an hour or more, but preferably around 15 to minutes for an all cellulose acetate crepe satin when the bath is plain water-
  • the I baths are obviously preferred for commercial reasons, enhanced results may be obtained by maintaining the pH value of the bath at between 5.5 to 6.
  • the control of the pH value of the bath may be effected by the'addition to the bath-of what is known as protective salts such as sodium sulphate, sodium citrate, etc. -By maintaining the pH value between-the above limits a minimum delustering action is produced at ,a given temperature. Therefore, when employing a protective salt as a control for the pH value, the
  • temperature of the treating bath may be raised nearer the boiling point of the bath, which boiling point will be higher than a plain water bath,
  • This invention is applicable to the production of fabrics produced from or containing crepe yarns of organic derivatives of cellulose such as organic esters of cellulose 'and the cellulose ethers.
  • organic esters of cellulose are cellulose acetate, cellulose formate, cellulose propionate and celluose butyrate, while examples of cellulose ethers are ethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose and benzyl cellulose.
  • the yarns may contain the organic derivative of cellulose in the form of substantially continuous filaments twisted together, short lengths of filaments spun together, or relatively long discontinuous lengths of filaments so twisted that they appear in the yarn as a staple fibre.
  • Fabric to be processed in accordance with this invention may be woven in any suitable manner and from any suitable yarns, some of which contain organic derivatives of cellulose.
  • the fabric may be woven from single or doubled yarns or threads or combinations of these.
  • threads of organic derivatives of cellulose that are formed by doubling a thread of high twist and a thread of low twist or two threads of uniformly high twist.
  • Crepe yarns containing organic derivatives of cellulose may be twisted to their high degree of twist say from 40 to 100 turns or more per inch in one or two stages with or without sizes, resins, gums, etc.
  • Yarns containing an organic derivative of cellulose that have a high degree of twist and that have been treated by precipitating lead sulphate in the threads may be employed.
  • the threads before twisting may be treated with materials such as ferrocyanide, thiosulphates, citrates, lactates, etc., or the threads may be pretreated before twisting with a latent solvent such as chloroform, tetrachlorethane, ethyl acetate, etc., or the threads may be treated before twist ing with hot water, steam, solvent vapors, etc.
  • materials such as ferrocyanide, thiosulphates, citrates, lactates, etc.
  • a latent solvent such as chloroform, tetrachlorethane, ethyl acetate, etc.
  • any method of imparting a twist to the yarns may be employed, it is preferable to twist the thread containing an organic derivative of cellulose, or at least insert part of the twist in the thread, in the presence of steam, hot water, water vapor, or other softening agents in the vapor or liquid state. These agents, such as the steam, hot water or water vapor, may be applied to the yarn either immediately before twisting, during twisting, during one stage of the twisting or immediately after twisting.
  • the crepe threads that is threads containing a high degree of twist, formed of an organic derivative of cellulose may be doubled with threads, for instance those having a twist of from 40 or more tums per inch and made of the same material, or with threads of such twist formed of reconstituted or regenerated cellulose, cotton, silk, wool, etc.
  • the crepe yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose may also be doubled with threads formed of organic esters of cellulose that have been continuously saponi fied, partially saponified or'intermittently or periodically saponified. Also, the crepe yarns or threads containing organic esters of cellulose may be partially or intermittently saponifled after their formation into the crepe threads.
  • These threads and yarns may be woven into a fabric in any suitable manner.
  • the yarns and threads containing organic derivatives of cellulose may be woven alternatively with yarns or threads of other materials such as silk, cotton, etc.
  • the crepe yarns containing organic derivatives of cellulose may also be employed for the raised to 95 C. in 15, minutes.
  • the fabric may be formed from threads having three or more ends of righthand twist alternating with one or more ends of left hand twist or vice-versa.
  • Fine pebble crepe fabric may be produced by laying either in the warp or weft, or both, one yarn of righthand twist and one yarn of left hand twist. Any arrangement of weave and sequence of yarns or threads may be employed.
  • the invention is particularly applicable to the production of fabrics having fioats'of noncreping yarns on one side and interwoven crepe yarns on the other side, producing fabric known as crepe satin.
  • the invention is especially of importance in the production of crepe satins in which all the yarns are substantially formed of cellulose acetate.
  • the creping treatment is preferably effected in baths of plain water.
  • the fabric should enter the bath while the same is maintained at below C. and the temperature gradually raised to between and 98 0. Temperatures, however, will vary from those herein given when protective salts are added to the bath.
  • the invention may be carried out in a continuous method by entering the fabric into a bath at a temperature below the commercial creping temperature, drawing the fabric from this bath to a succeeding bath at slightly higher temperature and then to a bath of maximum temperature where it is retained for a sufficient length of time to produce the crepe effect desired, and then removed and dried.
  • 3, 4 or more baths may be employed.
  • Example An all cellulose acetate crepe satin having crepe thread filling is entered in hank form in a plain water bath at 90 C. and the bath and the fabric The fabric is allowed to remain in the bath for another 15 minutes at the maximum temperature and then withdrawn from the bath and .dried. The fabric 15 is sufficiently shrunk to give a pleasing crepe effect on the one side without diminishing appreciably the luster on the satin side of the fabric.
  • Process for the production of crepe effects on fabrics containing highly twisted yarns at least some of which contain organic derivatives of cellulose which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath which is at a temperature below 90 C. and gradually raising the bath containing the fabric to a temperature near but below the boiling point of the bath.
  • Process for the production of crepe effects on fabrics containing highly twisted yarns at least some of which contain organic derivatives of cellulose which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath of plain water which is at a temperature below 90 C. and gradually raising the bath containing the fabric to a temperature near but below the boiling point of the bath.
  • Process for the production of crepe effects on fabrics containing highly twisted yarns at least some of which contain cellulose acetate which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath of plain water which is at a'temperature below 90 C. and gradually raising the bath containing the fabric to a temperature near but below the boiling point of the bath.
  • Process for the production of crepe effects on fabrics containing highly twisted yarns at least some of which contain organic derivatives of cellulose which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath of plain water which is at a temperature below 90 C. and gradually raising the bath containing the fabric at a rate less than 1 C. per minute to a temperature near but .below the boiling point of the bath.
  • Process for the production of crepe effects on fabrics containing highly twisted yarns at least some of which contain cellulose acetate which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath of plain water which is at a temperature below 90 C., raising the bath containing the fabric to between 95 and 98 C. in 15 minutes and maintaining the bath at this temperature for a further 15 minutes.
  • Process for the production of crepe satin effects on fabrics consisting of organic derivatives of cellulose and having floats of non-creping yarns on the one side and interwoven high twist yarns on the other side, which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath which is at a temperature below 90 C. and gradually raising the bath containing the fabric to a temperature near but below the boiling point of the bath.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Description

Patented Jan. 2, 1940 PATENT OFFICE FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Cyril M. Croft, Cumberland, Md., assignor to Celaneae Corporation of America, a corporation of Delaware No Drawing. Application July 24, 1937,
a Serial No. 155,574
'11 Claims.
This invention relates to crepe fabrics that contain a substantial amount of threads of an organic derivative of cellulose and to the method of making the same. The invention relates particularly to the process of making crepe satins of all cellulose acetate yarns which are not delustered.
An object of the invention is the economic and expeditious production of crepe fabrics containing yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose, which fabric has the full luster of uncreped fabrics containing yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose. Another objectof the invention is the production of an all cellulose acetate crepe satin that has a full luster. Other objects of the invention will appear from the following detailed description.
It is known that crepe fabrics may be produced from highly twisted threads of an organic derivative of cellulose, the twist being inserted in the threads in the presence of steam, hot water, water vapor, plasticizers or other softening agents.
These highly twisted threads containing an organic derivative of cellulose are woven into a fabric and, with or without embossing and/or delineating a pattern thereon, are treated in a bath at or near the boiling temperature to effect a shrinkage and creping of the fabric. Fabrics produced by said method, wherein they are subjected to treating baths at or near the boil, are delustered to some extent and, as in the case of crepe satins, to an appreciable extent. By employing the present invention, fabrics made in the usual manner may be processed to raise the crepe pebble thereon without producing a visible delustering effect.
I have found that crepe fabrics made of yarns containing an organic derivative of cellulose and woven in the same way as the fabrics containing similar yarns may be shrunk to form the pebble or crepe effect, without any visible delustering by entering the fabric in a creping bath that is below the temperature of that required to produce commercially a crepe and then raising the temperature of the bath high enough to produce a crepe effect but below the boiling point of the bath. Although the maximum temperature will vary according to the composition of the bath and the time of treatment, according tothe broad principle of his invention the maximum temperature may be substantially atbut below the boiling point of the creping bath.
In accordance with myinventioii, I produce crepe fabrics, and especially crepe 'satins that contain a substantial amount of filaments or fibres of an organic derivative of cellulose and that have a full luster, by fabricating highly twisted yarns to a fabric, entering the fabric in a creping bath that is below a rapid or commer cial creping temperature and then raising the temperature to a maximum that is from 6 to 1 C. below the boiling point of the bath and preferably from to 3 C. below said boiling point. By a rapid or commercial creping temperature as used above is meant a temperature at which a substantial amount of crepe effect is produced in the fabric on immersion of the fabric in the bath for an hour. The length of time for bring-- ing the bath and the fabric from the lower temperature up to the maximum temperature may vary according to the bulk of the fabric, the type of fabric being creped, and the composition of the treating bath. The most satisfactory results are obtained if this time interval is atleast minutes for every 5 C. rise in temperature, and preferably minutes for every 5 C. rise. length of time the fabric and the bath are held -at the maximum temperature will depend upon the degree of crepe desired, whether the fabric has had a prior embossing or delineating treatment and the maximum temperature of the bath. The higher the temperature of the bath the shorter will be the period required When the fabric has been embossed or has had a crepe pattern thereon a shorter period of treatment of the fabric at the maximum temperature is required. This period of'maximum temperature may be from 10 minutes to an hour or more, but preferably around 15 to minutes for an all cellulose acetate crepe satin when the bath is plain water- The I baths are obviously preferred for commercial reasons, enhanced results may be obtained by maintaining the pH value of the bath at between 5.5 to 6.- The control of the pH value of the bath may be effected by the'addition to the bath-of what is known as protective salts such as sodium sulphate, sodium citrate, etc. -By maintaining the pH value between-the above limits a minimum delustering action is produced at ,a given temperature. Therefore, when employing a protective salt as a control for the pH value, the
temperature of the treating bath may be raised nearer the boiling point of the bath, which boiling point will be higher than a plain water bath,
This invention is applicable to the production of fabrics produced from or containing crepe yarns of organic derivatives of cellulose such as organic esters of cellulose 'and the cellulose ethers. Examples of organic esters of cellulose are cellulose acetate, cellulose formate, cellulose propionate and celluose butyrate, while examples of cellulose ethers are ethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose and benzyl cellulose. The yarns may contain the organic derivative of cellulose in the form of substantially continuous filaments twisted together, short lengths of filaments spun together, or relatively long discontinuous lengths of filaments so twisted that they appear in the yarn as a staple fibre.
Fabric to be processed in accordance with this invention may be woven in any suitable manner and from any suitable yarns, some of which contain organic derivatives of cellulose. The fabric may be woven from single or doubled yarns or threads or combinations of these. Thus there may be used threads of organic derivatives of cellulose that are formed by doubling a thread of high twist and a thread of low twist or two threads of uniformly high twist. Crepe yarns containing organic derivatives of cellulose may be twisted to their high degree of twist say from 40 to 100 turns or more per inch in one or two stages with or without sizes, resins, gums, etc. Yarns containing an organic derivative of cellulose that have a high degree of twist and that have been treated by precipitating lead sulphate in the threads may be employed. Moreover, the threads before twisting may be treated with materials such as ferrocyanide, thiosulphates, citrates, lactates, etc., or the threads may be pretreated before twisting with a latent solvent such as chloroform, tetrachlorethane, ethyl acetate, etc., or the threads may be treated before twist ing with hot water, steam, solvent vapors, etc.
with or without stretching. Although any method of imparting a twist to the yarns may be employed, it is preferable to twist the thread containing an organic derivative of cellulose, or at least insert part of the twist in the thread, in the presence of steam, hot water, water vapor, or other softening agents in the vapor or liquid state. These agents, such as the steam, hot water or water vapor, may be applied to the yarn either immediately before twisting, during twisting, during one stage of the twisting or immediately after twisting.
The crepe threads, that is threads containing a high degree of twist, formed of an organic derivative of cellulose may be doubled with threads, for instance those having a twist of from 40 or more tums per inch and made of the same material, or with threads of such twist formed of reconstituted or regenerated cellulose, cotton, silk, wool, etc. The crepe yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose may also be doubled with threads formed of organic esters of cellulose that have been continuously saponi fied, partially saponified or'intermittently or periodically saponified. Also, the crepe yarns or threads containing organic esters of cellulose may be partially or intermittently saponifled after their formation into the crepe threads.
These threads and yarns may be woven into a fabric in any suitable manner. The yarns and threads containing organic derivatives of cellulose may be woven alternatively with yarns or threads of other materials such as silk, cotton, etc. The crepe yarns containing organic derivatives of cellulose may also be employed for the raised to 95 C. in 15, minutes.
weft or warp. For large pebble effects the fabric may be formed from threads having three or more ends of righthand twist alternating with one or more ends of left hand twist or vice-versa. Fine pebble crepe fabric may be produced by laying either in the warp or weft, or both, one yarn of righthand twist and one yarn of left hand twist. Any arrangement of weave and sequence of yarns or threads may be employed. The invention, however, is particularly applicable to the production of fabrics having fioats'of noncreping yarns on one side and interwoven crepe yarns on the other side, producing fabric known as crepe satin. The invention is especially of importance in the production of crepe satins in which all the yarns are substantially formed of cellulose acetate. In this type of fabric it is often desirous to have a full luster of the natural cellulose acetate yarns. This full luster is diminished in the creping treatments as heretofore practiced and it was necessary to obtain the full luster by treating the fabric with relustering agents which meant an additional and expensive treatment. Moreover, there was always the danger of lowering the grade of the fabric due to the extra treatment in heated baths as well as the possibility that the treatment if not carefully controlled would greatly weaken the fabric. In accordance with this invention, the fabric maintains its full luster during the creping treatment and is not subjected to chemicals which might be injurious to the fabric if not under the supervision of experts.
The creping treatment, as stated above, is preferably effected in baths of plain water. The fabric should enter the bath while the same is maintained at below C. and the temperature gradually raised to between and 98 0. Temperatures, however, will vary from those herein given when protective salts are added to the bath. Instead of a batch process, the invention may be carried out in a continuous method by entering the fabric into a bath at a temperature below the commercial creping temperature, drawing the fabric from this bath to a succeeding bath at slightly higher temperature and then to a bath of maximum temperature where it is retained for a sufficient length of time to produce the crepe effect desired, and then removed and dried. In a continuous method 2, 3, 4 or more baths may be employed. In such a method it is found preferable to treat the fabric in hank form thereby mai taining the tension on both warp and weft a a minimum. In place of the series of baths as above desired, there may be employed one bath wherein the heated treating liquid enters one end counter-current to the fabric and is cooled as it nears the other end where the fabric enters the bath. Employing a single tank with suitable baiiles, the temperature of the bath at one end of the tank may vary a suitable number of degrees from the temperature of the bath at the other end.
In order to further illustrate my invention without being limited thereto, the following example is given:
Example An all cellulose acetate crepe satin having crepe thread filling is entered in hank form in a plain water bath at 90 C. and the bath and the fabric The fabric is allowed to remain in the bath for another 15 minutes at the maximum temperature and then withdrawn from the bath and .dried. The fabric 15 is sufficiently shrunk to give a pleasing crepe effect on the one side without diminishing appreciably the luster on the satin side of the fabric.
It is to be understood that the foregoing detailed description is merely given by way of illustration and that many variations may be made therein without departing from the spirit of my invention.
Having described 'my invention, to secure by Letters Patent is:
1. Process for the production of crepe effects on fabrics containing highly twisted yarns at least some of which contain organic derivatives of cellulose, which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath which is at a temperature below 90 C. and gradually raising the bath containing the fabric to a temperature near but below the boiling point of the bath.
2. Processfor the production of crepe effects on fabrics containing highly twisted yarns at least some of which contain cellulose acetate, which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath which is at a temperature below 90 C.
and gradually raising the bath containing the fabric to a temperature near but below the boiling point of the bath.
3. Process for the production of crepe effects on fabrics containing highly twisted yarns at least some of which contain organic derivatives of cellulose, which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath of plain water which is at a temperature below 90 C. and gradually raising the bath containing the fabric to a temperature near but below the boiling point of the bath.
4. Process for the production of crepe effects on fabrics containing highly twisted yarns at least some of which contain cellulose acetate, which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath of plain water which is at a'temperature below 90 C. and gradually raising the bath containing the fabric to a temperature near but below the boiling point of the bath.
5. Process for the production of crepe effects on fabrics containing highly twisted yarns at least some of which contain organic derivatives of cellulose, which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath of plain water which is at a temperature below 90 C. and gradually raising the bath containing the fabric at a rate less than 1 C. per minute to a temperature near but .below the boiling point of the bath.
6. Process for the production of crepe effects on fabrics containing highly twisted yarns at 55 least some of which contain cellulose acetate,
10 what I desire which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath of plain water which is at a temperature below C. and gradually raising the bath containing the fabric at a rate less than 1 C. per minute to a temperature near but; below the boiling point of the bath.
'7. Process for the production of crepe effects on fabrics containinghighly twisted yarns at least some of which contain organic derivatives of cellulose, which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath of plain water which is at a temperature below 90 0., raising the bath containing the fabric to between and 98 C. in 15 minutes and maintaining the bath at this temperature for a further 15 minutes.
8. Process for the production of crepe effects on fabrics containing highly twisted yarns at least some of which contain cellulose acetate, which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath of plain water which is at a temperature below 90 C., raising the bath containing the fabric to between 95 and 98 C. in 15 minutes and maintaining the bath at this temperature for a further 15 minutes.
9. Process for the production of crepe satin effects on fabrics consisting of organic derivatives of cellulose and having floats of non-creping yarns on the one side and interwoven high twist yarns on the other side, which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath which is at a temperature below 90 C. and gradually raising the bath containing the fabric to a temperature near but below the boiling point of the bath.
10. Process for the production of crepe satin effects on fabrics consisting of cellulose acetate and having floats of non-creping yarns on the one side and interwoven high twist yarns on the other side, which comprises entering the fabric into a treating bath which is at a temperature below 90 C. and gradually raising the bath con-- minutes and maintaining the bath at this temperature for a further 15 minutes.
CYRIL M. CROFI'.
US155574A 1937-07-24 1937-07-24 Fabric and method of making same Expired - Lifetime US2185627A (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2907094A (en) * 1952-08-09 1959-10-06 Deering Milliken Res Corp Textile process
US3021588A (en) * 1958-04-03 1962-02-20 Deering Milliken Res Corp Knitted textile products and methods for their preparation

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2907094A (en) * 1952-08-09 1959-10-06 Deering Milliken Res Corp Textile process
US3021588A (en) * 1958-04-03 1962-02-20 Deering Milliken Res Corp Knitted textile products and methods for their preparation

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