US2151652A - Device for articles of clothing or washable undergarments - Google Patents

Description

March 21, 1939. J, BONNER 2,151,652

DEVICE FOR ARTICLES OF CLOTHING OR WASHABLE UNDERGARMENTS- Filed Dec. 1} 1957 2 Sheets-Sheet l J Donner ImIerIZ JMWg? March 21, 1939. J. DONNER 2,151,652

DEVICE FOR ARTICLES 0F CLOTHING OR WASHABLE UNDERGARMENTS Filed Dec. 1, 1937v 2 Shets-Sheet 2 J Donner" Iryzfflfd Patented Mar. 21, 1939 PATENT OFFICE DEVICE FOR ARTICLES OF CLOTHING OR WASHABLE UNDERGARMENTS Josef Donner, Vienna,

Austria, assignor, by

mesne assignments, to Dorothy Hoffman-Donner, Vienna, Austria Application December 1, 1937, Serial No. 177,630 In Austria January 11, 1937 3 Claims.

This invention relates to garments made of fibrous materials, and particularly to articles of underwear, of the type having one or more constituent parts (collar, cuffs, or the like) attached with the use of continuous means of attachment, preferably a sewn seam, said parts being adapted to be detached, when they have become defective through use, and replaced by spare parts.

In the known garments of this description the joint between the parts to be detached from each other is formed by the non-bound and loosely folded over fabric plies of at least one of the parts, and that irrespectively of whether the marginal portions thereof are folded over each other or joined by mere overlapping. In spite of the fact that the severing of the uniting means (primarily sewn seams) is effected with the aid of an implement, the fold of the known bound fabric plies, with these known garments, inevitably becomes unfolded inthe process of detachment, with the result that this marginal portion has to be rearranged and put ready again for the attachment of the spare part. I

The same principle is embodied in a wearable underwear garment which is provided with a non-tearing tape inserted in the joint and left with both ends projecting, for the purpose of enabling the seam, which passes through the non-tearing tape, to be ripped open without the use of a severing implement. Since the edge of the garment to which the detach-able part is made fast is neither strengthened nor bound, while the likewise non-bound plies of the spare part, e. g. of the cuff or neck-band, are merely loosely inserted, the pulling force exerted to rip the seam open puts a severe strain upon the material of the garment and tends to lead to injury thereof. Apart from this objection, it is also necessary, in attaching the spare part, to fold the marginal portions and to bring them into their proper relative positions, which requires considerable skill and time. Moreover the grippable ends of the non-tearing tape sticking out of the garment at the sides spoils the neat appearance of the garment.

It has also been proposed to provide a detachable facing on the parts of garments most subject to wear and tear in use. This arrangement however it uncomfortable, clumsy, and detrimental to fit.

The present invention provides for the rapid and effortless detachment of replaceable parts of garments made of fibrous materials, and that without any risk of injury tothe marginal portion 55 of the garment. To achieve this result the marginal portions involved in such dissoluble joint or seam, or at least the marginalportion of the main body of the garment at such joint or seam, is finished off in itself, independently of the detachable part, so as to be capable of withstanding the pulling force exerted in ripping the means of attachment without sustaining injury. The invention also covers particular structural features of the joint between the parts to be separated or detached from each other.

Three forms of construction embodying the invention are'shown, by way of example, in the accompanying drawings, in which:--

Fig. 1 shows, in perspective view, a shirt provided with a detachable collar in accordance with the invention.

Fig. 2 is a section on the line 11-11 in Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 shows the neck-band in cross-section, and

Fig.4 the shirt during the act of detaching the collar, in perspective view, according to the first form of construction.

Fig. 5 shows a shirt with detachable collar according to a second modified form of construction, in elevation, with the outer collar unfolded, while Fig. 6 shows the same during the operation of detaching the collar by tearing.

Fig. 7 is a cross-section of the turned-down collar.

Fig. 8 shows the third form of construction embodying the invention, in elevation, during the operation of detaching the collar by tearing.

The shirt shown in Figs. 1 to 4 of the drawings is provided in a conventional manner with a neckband A (shirt collar) attached to the saddle portion of the shirt. The outer ply a and the inner ply b of the material of which the neck-band is made are each attached, by means of an inturned or whip seam c, to a lining e and 11, respectively, which linings extend into the interior of the neckband. The two plies of the neck-band are attached independently to their respective linings, so that the finished neck-band A presents a channell or groove j which is open and accessible from above, and into which the shorter inner flap 9 of the outer collar or collar proper B may be inserted. In order that it need not be necessary to adjust the collar B into the proper position relatively to the neck-band A, and to obtain the required adjustment automatically, the two sides of the neck-band are attached together, by a quilting seam h at a distance from the mouth of the channel or pocket 1 appropriate to the height of the inner collar flap g, which is less than that of the neck-band A. The seam the stitches of which pass through the plies of material a, b and also the plies of lining d, 6, thus limits and defines the depth of the pocket 1 and furnishes an abutment for the lower edge of the inner collar flap a. Before the collar B is inserted in the channel f of the neck-band A there is attached to the inner flap 9 of the collar, at the side destined to come in contact with the outer ply a of the neck-band, by means of stitching i, a ripup element k e. g. a non-breakable tape, a strong thread, cord, or the like, which preferably extends over the entire length of the collar, and of which a portion is left hanging out, for example in the form of a loop Z, to serve for grasping and pulling at this rip-up element. The uniting of the collar B to the neck-band A is effected by means of a single strong seam m, for example a quilting seam, which runs near the upper edge of the neckband A, and which passes through the outer plies a, b, the lining plies d, e, the inner flap g of the collar B, and the tape it. The tag 1 of the rip-up tape 70 hangs transversely out of the opening of the neck-band groove 1, and remains freely accessible between the collar B and the neck-band A. In spite of the use of a single uniting seam m without any additional uniting seam, perfect fit and lie of the collar B is obtained, since in the first place the lower edge of the inner flap g of the collar bears firmly against the sholulders formed by the seam h so that rocking of the flap 9 inside the neck-band A is impossible, while in the second place the seam h stiffens the neck-band A in its upper part. This latter effect is achieved by reason of the fact that the stitches of this seam h hold together all the plies a, b, d, and e which make up the neck-band A, so that no one of these plies can bulge or bunch independently of the others, and collapsing of the neck-band is rendered impossible.

If it is desired for any reason, for instance because of wear or damage, to renew the collar B it is merely necessary to exert a pull on the tag 1 of the rip tape is which immediately causes the uniting seam m to begin to be ripped open. This procedure, which becomes progressively easier as the rip tape becomes more and more exposed and the collar more and more detached, is continued until the collar B is completely detached from the neck-band A. The progressive ripping up of the uniting seam m required but slight force and may be effected rapidly and without the least harm to the neck-band A, the more so since the rip tape It brings about progressive rupturing of the stitches of the uniting seam m, and the force exerted in the process is easily taken up by this tape and by the neck-band A reinforced by the linings d, e and by the assembling seam h. As soon as the collar has been detached from the shirt a spare collar may be inserted in the groove 1 of the neck-band A, using the assembling seam h as an abutment for determining the proper position of the collar relatively to the neck-band, and then sewn thereto.

The shirts shown in Figs. 5 to 7 difier from that shown in Figs. 1 to 4 only by the fact that the rip tape 70 extending over the entire length of the collar is replaced by a rip element 1' e. g. a nonbreakable tape or the like, which is provided only at some one point across the uniting seam m and held in position by a few of the stitches of this seam. This rip element is preferably inserted at the inner side of the'main fold of the collar B, before the seam m is put in, with its end between the inner flap g and the neck-band A in the groove f. This rip element r disposed transversely of the uniting seam m projects with its upper porof the neck-band A. To facilitate manipulation of the rip element r, and to save it from fraying, this element may be laid in a loop with both ends inserted in the neckband A and held fast by the uniting seam.

To detach the collar B it is first necessary to pull the rip element 1' out of engagement with the collar. This operation involves ripping out the stitches of the uniting seam m which pass through the rip element, as a result of which a gap is formed in the connection between the collar B and the neck-band A which may then be extended for instance by the insertion of a finger. By pulling at the parts as shown in Fig. 6 of the drawings the remainder of the seam m may then be easily ripped open, with the result that the collar is detached from the neck-band. These tion beyond the edge operations require the expenditure of but very little force, more particularly seeing that in the first place the rip element 1' is only held fast by a few stitches, while in the second place the provision of the groove of limited depth allows of the use of but a single uniting seam m to be ripped In further development of the invention, owing to the uniting of the collar to the neck-band by means of only one single seam, it is possible to dispense altogether with the use of rip facilitating means such as k or r, and to effect detachment of the collar from the neck-band by ripping the seam m starting from one end thereof, as shown in Fig. 8. The completely finished off neck-band A, which is reinforced by the assembling seam H near the point of maximum stress, is of greater strength than the uniting seam m, and for this reason the ripping open of the uniting seam does not involve any danger of injury to the neck-band or putting an undue strain thereon.

It will be clear that any portion of a garment or article of linen, which it may be desired to make detachable, particularly the cuifs, may be attached, with or without the use of a rip element is or r, by making the part of the garment to which such portion is directly attached in the manner according to the invention. This applies more particularly to making the cufi-band on the sleeve with a groove or pocket of the described type for the insertion of the cuff with a View to its subsequent detachment and replacement by a fresh cuff in the manner described.

Instead of making the groove or packet f on the neck-band, or the like, e. g. on the main body of the garment, to receive the collar-cuff, or other detachable part, the procedure may be reversed, that is to say the groove or pocketed edge may be provided on the detachable part and the band or other edge of the main body of the garment be inserted and secured therein.

It is also possible to dispense with uniting seams altogether, and to secure the detachable parts by means of adhesive.

I claim:

1. A garment comprising a main section, removable side sections, marginal portions at the joints of said sections, at least one stitched seam to connect the same, means to tear said seam apart for the removal and replacement of said side sections, the marginal portion of the main section being provided with turned in and secured edges independently of the connecting seam.

A garment comprising a main section, removable side sections, a tearing strip for the removal of the same, marginal portions at the joints of said sections, at least one of said sections being groove-shaped for the insertion into said groove of the joining marginal portion of the other section and having groove forming flaps, at least one stitched seam to connect the flaps of the one section, the inserted marginal portion of the other section and the tearing strip, said flaps bein provided with turned in and secured edges per se and independently of said connecting seam.

3. A garment comprising a main section, removable side sections, a tearing strip for the removal of the same, marginal portions at the joints of said sections at least one of said sections being groove-shaped for the insertion into said groove of the joining marginal portion of the other section and having groove forming flaps, at least one stitched seam to connect the flaps of the one section, the inserted marginal portion of the other section and the tearing strip, said flaps being provided with turned in and secured edges per se and independently of said connecting seam, said tearing strip being provided with a projecting loop, said loop being located on a point between the ends of said tearing strip and being folded onto the latter.

J OSEF DONNER.

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