US2077772A - Pattern - Google Patents

Description

E. E. RING April 20, 1937.

PATTERN Filed Dec. 9, 1935 MTTO NE Patented Apr. 20, 1937 PATENT ortres PATTERN EllaE. Ring, New York, .N. Y.

Application December 9, 1935,:Serial'No. 53,567

is Claims.

My present invention relates to :patterns for wearing apparel of various kinds, or the like, and consists "essentially in pattern members or =elements or parts so perforated-or apertured preferably along marginal or seam lines, that corre- I spondingsections 0f the fabric or dress'material, or other material, maybe joined or basted together, while the pattern pieces or any 'part thereof are still attached'by'pinning-or otherwise to the fabric sections, but without sewing the bers and is directed thereby.

'Myim-proved pattern is especially:designedto be applied for use :in such :a manner .as to simplify and to facilitate the practice of professional, as well 'as home-0r domestic dressmaking :and tailoring; and the essential feature :of the pattern is that it has formed thereonalterna'ting, or particularly -juxtaposed series of slots or other perforations at or nearcerta'in edges to indicate' the seam or sewing line at :any two corresponding edges or tsewing :lines; through 'which slots two or more overlaid corresponding fabric sections may be "joined together-by a :continuousv 'line of basting stitches-that :enable eachtpattern apart .to remain attached to respective fabric section, and .is not :ready'to be removed therefrom until after the basting :has :been finished; and said basting seam does not interfere with the :removal of the pattern parts, as .it :catchesthrough the fabric only :and :not in the :pattern parts except to :pass loosely through the perforations.

The fundamental object 10f my improved :pattern is to provide anaccurate means of simplifying :3, pattern for .use, whereby various steps, LSO essential in the use of the average :pattern to attain accuracy, :are eliminated.

Heretofore, experience has shown, with patterns of ,all kinds, that it has been and still customary to transfer the seams :or sewing :lines fromaeach pattern part to the separate seam edges of :two corresponding sections, by using various.

transfer methods some .of which have decided disadvantages which might :actually injure the fabric to which the seam lines-are "transferred.

The present invention may be said to consist essentially :in providing a pattern which .is more particularly adapted and intended .for use 'in'the basting together of any two corresponding fabric sections which .are intended to be :parts of a garment. Said pattern pieces have formed thereon series of slot-perforations which are alternately arranged, or oppositely placed so that the members of one series alternate with or overlap the members'of an opposite series, formedat certain edges to indicate a seam line or sewing line, and through which two corresponding fabric sections may be joined together by a continuous line of basting, the latter passing'through the series of opposite perforations and the interposed pieces of fabrics so that it does notinterfere with "the removalo'f each pattern part from its respective fabric part after the basting has been done and the two fabric sections 'have been sewed together by the thread which has been guided in its course by the series of opposite perforations.

The useof the alternating or over-lapping slots permits each pattern piece to remain attached to its respective'cut-out fabric section-while two; corresponding edges are being basted together. Said pattern parts are not removed until after I the bastinghas been finished. This is a decided advantage, especially in a fabric of a delicate texture such as chiffon, fine laces, or anyiloose'ly woven fabric where the attached pattern 'p'ieces serve to stay the grain of the fabric and .therefore retain the original outline, zthus guaranteeing an exact reproduction of the :original :design.

In the accompanying drawing :illustratin'g'zmy invention:

Figure .1 .is a'plan view a'ofawhole frontrpart of I a garment pattern; each part "of said ipattern represents a whole (not merely a half) pattern piece and is intended to be placed :on the single thickness of the fabric from which it is to becut; said part .having formed thereonat :certain :edges generally used for letting ;out .a garment, series of slotperforations of the same type, acombination of short-and :long slots, the short slots being placed .at the=end-of each seam line.

Figure '2 is a plan view of a whole back part of the same garment pattern, the :edges of which correspond with those of the front shown in Fig. 1, as indicated-by the single and double notches, and having :formed thereon series of long slots only.

.Figure'3 is a detail plan view of the ':front and back pattern parts, with their respective cut-out fabric sections still pinned thereto, all %these;parts beingrsuperimposed one upon another, and shows the fabric sections :as they appear ready for the process of being joined together by 'a threaded insertion through the :slot perforations which will :pass through the material only of the fabric, for the threaded insertion becomes the basting of the .seam.

Figures 4 and 5 are plan views similar to Figures 1 and 2, but each view represents only a half of the front and back of a garment pattern where pattern pieces are supplied for only onehalf of the garment, except such parts as could not possibly be cut on the half, one half being different from the other. These half pieces are to be out from a folded piece of the fabric.

Figure 6 is a detail plan view similar to Figure 3, and shows the underfold of the folded fabric sections unpinned, whereby the fabric is opened out and the fabric sections joined together on one half, after which the pattern parts are unpinned and placed on the other half.

Figure '7 is a perspective view of a separate border pattern perforated in the same manner as the pattern parts in Figures 1 and 2, and which may be used in connection with any type of pattern, commercial or otherwise.

Figure 8 is a side .view of a fragmentary portion of the same, with the edge marked off in inches for measurement, and showing the basting threads and the fabric sections.

Figure 9 is a plan View of a sleeve part of the garment pattern, and shows the same series of slot perforations along the edges, the front being indicated by triple notches at the top, as in Figure 1, and the same series of slot perforations'at the back edge as in Figure 2.

Figure 10 is a perspective detail view, showing the seam edges of two cut-out corresponding fabric sections inserted between edges of the separate perforated seam border parts of the pattern, and basted together.

Figure 11 is a longitudinal sectional View through pattern pieces and duplicate fabric sections, showing two series of alternating or overlapping slots and showing the threaded insertion passing through the slots in a continuous line and also through the sections of fabric, and catching only in the fabric, whereby the fabric pieces are basted together, but the pattern pieces are left free and can be removed from the fabric.

Similar characters of reference designate corresponding parts throughout all the different figures of the drawing.

The overlapping slots in the two pattern pieces, and the location of the thread after it has been passed through the slots and been sewed into the fabric is clearly seen in Figures 10 and 11.

The object in overlapping the slots of one series over the slots in the opposite series, so the ends of the slots in one series overlap the ends of the adjacent slots, is that when the needle is inserted at the end of a slot in the uppermost pattern piece for example, and brought out at the beginning of the next slot below it in the undermost pattern piece, it passes through the two thicknesses of fabric only the entire length of the alternating slot in the corresponding pattern piece directly underneath or opposite.

The garment pattern, thus prepared and perforated with overlapping slots is used in the following manner.

When each part of a garment pattern represents the whole of such part (and not merely a half, as is commonly the case) all the parts are to be placed in their proper positions on the single thickness of the fabric or material, and on that side where the basting is to be done. Then the operator carefully pins or otherwise attaches each separate part to the fabric, preferably just inside of the perforated lines. The pattern pieces so placed and attached are not to be removed from the fabric, until any two corresponding fabric sections have been basted together. After the fabric parts have been cut out the corresponding parts of the garment will then be pinned together, for instance the front to the back, or the two edges of a sleeve, in doing which all corresponding notches and perforated seam lines will be carefully matched, having that pattern piece uppermost having the small slot or perforation at each end of its seam line, so that the seam may be started and finished with one or several smaller stitches to fasten the ends securely, thus preventing the seam from separating at the ends when the garment is to be tried on at a fitting.

The fabric sections are then basted together by inserting a threaded needle at the end of the short slot and bringing it out at the beginning of the next slot which is a long one. The needle in passing from one slot to the next passes under the uppermost pattern piece and between the slot perforations, catches through the two thicknesses of the fabric only, made possible by the alternating long slot in the pattern piece directly underneath.

All this is clearly perceptible from the views in the drawing which sets forth lucidly appropriate examples of the construction of the pattern and the mode of its use.

In Figure 1 the front of a garment pattern is shown at I, having along each edge a row of slots 5, of a long variety, at the ends of which rows are small or short slots 5 At the shoulders are two rows of slots. The right shoulder has a long slot 1, at each end of which is a short slot 1 the left shoulder has a long slot 8, at each end of which is a short slot 8*. The back of the garment pattern is shown in Figure 2 at 2. This piece 2 has along each edge, rows of long slots 6, suitably spaced apart; while at the shoulders are short rows of long slots 9 and 10.

In Figures 1 and 2 the back and front pattern pieces I and 2 are laid out flat. In Figure 3 the front piece I is superimposed upon the back piece 2, and between them are the two fabric sections 3 and 4 which have been cut out of the fabric by the pattern pieces I and 2. The pattern I is pinned to the fabric part 3 and the pattern 2 is pinned to the fabric part 4. When the back and front are thus placed together so as to baste the fabric parts together, the rows of slot perforations on the front I will obviously coincide with the rows of slot perforations on the back, that is to say the rows of perforations 5 and 5 will be opposite to the rows of perforations 6,'and the rows 1 and 1 will be opposite to the perforations S and I0.

In this position the threaded insertion may be passed back and forth through the upper and lower slots so as to sew the fabric pieces 3 and 4 together. The action of the thread and the relation of all the parts in their operation is perhaps best brought out in Figures 10 and 11. In these figures the two pattern pieces are denoted by 23 and 24, and the two fabric pieces by H and I 2. In patternpiece 24 are the long slots 21 and the small end slots 28. In pattern piece 23 are the long slots 26.

25 denotes a length of thread, having on the end a needle, as 22, for threading it through the slots in the two pattern pieces 23 and 24, and causing the thread 25 to sew the two pieces of fabric H and I 2 together. In the perspective view of Figure 10 the parts are opened up so as to more fully display the relation of the parts to 'each otherpand xthus bring out the effective work- :ing cof the method in a more lucid manner than when the parts :are :all ccompacted together in. aa fiat :relation, as in Figure 3,. or'in Figured, for 5 instance; though Llll the sectional view of Figure 11 the parts are .shown :close "together, withxthe fabric parts :11 and 12 'b'asted together, :andxthe ,pattern parts 22-3 and 2.4 removabl-y placed.

Now, if we pass the needle 22 through the top 1o perforation 22:8 in pattern .24, then through the two fabrics H and I2, the :needle may then be passed into the top end of slot 26 in pattern .23, in such course passing the thread-25 through the fabrics Hand 12. The needle will .be lpassed 15 through slot 26, .out at the top and .in :again at the bottom, then through thexfabrics H and I2 again, making one:stitch "through these fabrics, and the needlewlill pass from the 'bottom end of top slot 26 into the top end of adjacent-oropposite overlapping slot 21. Thus the needle goes out through the *upperend-of slot 21 and is passed in again "through the lower endof .sl-ot 2.1, through the fabrics again and into the upperend of overlapping slot '26, making another stitch, these '25 stitches being as longas'the slots and-being loose basting stitches that catch "the fabrics together. The fact that the-opposite slots overlap as described and alternate with each other enables this method to be pursued. And it will follow in the same way through the entire 'seriesof slots, the needle 22 coming out at the lower end, as seen in Figure 11, having passed through all the slots and drawn thread 25 through the slots and through the fabric sections, after which pattern parts may beunpinned and removed.

The object of threading in this manner is that the threaded insertiondoes not at any time catch any part of the pattern ,piece itself to thefabric, as does the requirement of the t-ailors tack method. Therefore, the said pattern pieces when 11npinned may .be lifted off the fabric sections now held together by the line of basting or threaded insertion and which becomes the guide line for the stitching to be done without any interference, such as the clipping of the threaded insertion between any two perforations, as in the tailors tack method, so called, as generally used in the common average commercial pattern.

Again, it should be further explained, that the threaded insertion not only indicates the seam line, but is the actual basting of a seam holding two edges together, thus eliminating the necessity of a separate transfer line of any kind such as is required by the use of the various methods hereinabove explained. My improved method not only represents a continuous line of basting but a line of even, accurately placed stitches, the length of which is controlled by the length of the slot perforations, so that were a garment to be basted together, this improved pattern would enable any one, even those unskilled in the art to which it appertains, to get the same accurate results of fine workmanship heretofore obtained only by experts in that art.

When each part of a garment pattern represents only one half, the fabric from which it is to be cut is to be folded and all parts properly placed thereon as suggested for whole parts of a garment pattern; but after the fabric has been out out, the underfolds of the fabric sections are unpinned, thereby opening out the fabric. Seams are then basted together first on one half as shown in Figure 6, after which the pattern parts are unpinned from that half and removed; then manner of perforating/may beidentical or similar to that -'of the gparts-of the garment pattern, with the exception of the small-slot at the end of a .seam line as .in Figure :1.

Thus the border denice "in Figure ,5? is bent .at -an .angle, and consists of members l3 .and t4, bent at a right angle,

:member 'I 3 having slots l9, andimember 1:4 having is1ots 20. .in'the o'ther TOW, so that when the :fabric pieces,

These slotsrin .one row overlap the .slots 53 and 4 for example, are enclosed :in the bent border 13., M .as in Figure 8, with'slots overlap- ;p'ingthe threaded insertion at may be carried through the slots of the members 13 and M with the same 'results :as are accomplished with the thread .25 in Figures-l0 and 1:1. Qn'eedge or the bent corner edge -:of this border :device may be marked off :by inches, as at -'li5, for the purpose of retaining the original length of a seam. The seamzmay beused in connection with any type of commercial pattern, or otherwise, for basting together seam edges of two corresponding fabric parts of agarment cut from any type of a pattern by merely slipping the matching seam edges between the edges of the border device.

'Among some of the modifications of the invention I may mention an alternative seam border, which may be modified in construction in-th'e following manner. One edge'only of the border, preferably the uppermost one, when it lies flat, may be perforated as described; in which case "the under edge of the border would generally and'perhaps necessarily be narrower than the upper, so as not to obstruct the threaded insertion when the latter passes through the slots in the uppermost edge in stitching the two fabric pieces together, but still be wide enough to enable the twofabric sections to be properly placed between the edges of the border. The procedure of basting in of this particular case would be identical with that in Figure 8, except that the threaded insertion passes through one series of slots only, preferably those in the uppermost edge of the border.

The latter method of using the threaded insertion in one edge of a border device havin two edges in a bent form, may also be applied to the regular garment pattern piece, by threading through only one row of slots in one piece, but in certain cases only, and this is usually done by detaching one pattern piece before basting two corresponding fabric sections together by an insertion threaded through the one series of slots, prefer-ably those in the uppermost pattern piece. This procedure may of course be employed only if the seam is such as will not be affected as to its accuracy by the same. In most cases it could only be applied to corresponding edges identical in outline such as two perfectly straight edges or the like. Other changes and applications of the same idea may be adopted and used with advantages and benefits in various ways.

I have thus indicated a diversified application of the uses of my novel and improved garment pattern. I do not confine myself to the slot perforations alone, or to the placement of the same, nor the manner of perforating corresponding seam edges on sewing lines, because many variations, changes and modifications, whether as an article or a method, may be allowed within the scope of the claims, without detracting in any way from its main idea of the joining together of two corresponding sections of fabric while the pattern or any part thereof is attached tothe fabric.

What I claim is:

1. In a garment pattern, pattern pieces perforated on opposite seam lines, the perforations of one seam line alternating in location with those in the opposite seam line, so that the perforations in one seam line lie opposite to the interperforation spaces of the opposite seam line, between which pattern pieces fabric may be inserted so as to accommodate a threaded insertion which is guided by the perforations for sewing into the fabric along the seam line without causing the threaded insertion to engage the pattern pieces, which can readily be removed from the fabric after the sewing is finished.

2. In a garment pattern, pattern pieces provided with series of slots on seam lines opposite to each other, the slots in one seam line alternating in location with those in the opposite seam line so that the slots in one seam line lie opposite to the interslot spaces in the opposite seam line, whereby the slots in each seam line overlap the ends of the slots in the opposite seam line, between which pattern pieces fabric may be inserted so as to accommodate a threaded insertion which is guided by the slots for sewing into the fabric along the seam line without engaging the pattern pieces.

3. In a garment pattern, pattern pieces provided on marginal seam lines with slots, one pattern piece having terminal short slots at the end of a series of long slots, and the other pattern piece having long slots only, said slots in each piece alternating with those in the opposite piece, and the slots in each piece lying opposite the interslot spaces of the other piece and overlapping 40 the ends of the opposite slots between which pattern pieces temporarily-attached pieces of fabric are placed to be basted together by an insertion threaded through the slots of the pattern pieces alternately.

4. A guiding means for a threaded insertion used in sewing fabric'pieces together, consisting of a border basting means, including pieces perforated with rows of oppositely located slots, between which perforated pieces cutout pieces of fabric are placed for basting together by means of an insertion threaded through the perforations loosely without catching in the perforated pattern pieces.

5. A guiding means for a threaded insertion used in sewing fabric pieces together, consisting of border means including pieces perforated with rows of oppositely located slots, between which perforated pieces suitable cutout pieces or plies of fabric are inserted for basting together by means of a basting thread inserted through the alternate slots and stitching the fabric pieces together without engaging the perforated pieces.

6. A guiding means for a threaded insertion, used in sewing fabric pieces together, consisting of border basting means constructed as set forth in claim 5, the pieces on which are made from a single integral sheet bent or folded along a longitudinal line to form the two perforated sections whose perforations are opposed to each other.

7. A guiding means for a threaded insertion used in sewing fabric pieces together, consisting of an angular border device comprising a piece perforated with slots along two of its longitudinal edges, and having a bend between the perforated edges.

8. A guiding means for a threaded insertion used in sewing fabric pieces together, consisting of an angular border device comprising a piece perforated along an edge and bent in such a manner that the opposite portion may be narrower than the perforated portion so as not to obstruct the threaded insertion when the latter passes through the perforations in the uppermost part in stitching together the interposed plies of the fabric material.

ELLA E. RING.

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