US2022908A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

Dec. 1935- E. G. W ORTHINGTON 2,022,908

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Dec. 6, 1954 Fig.1-

Patented Dec. 3, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Application December 6, 1934, Serial No. 756,240

6 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of making shoes.

An object of the invention is to provide a methed for making shoes including improved lasting operations in which the upper is mounted on the last in an improved and novel manner preparatory for attachment of the sole to the welt and subsequent removal of the last from the shoe to leave a filler space in the shoe, the margin of which was formed by a templet on the last extending beyond the sole of the last.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved method for making shoes with greater accuracy and precision than by usual methods, and including the provision of a templet in connection with the last against which the inner marginal edge of the shoe upper and welt are held by the wiper jaws during the attachment of the sole to the welt.

Other objects will appear from the following description, reference being made to the annexed drawing, in Which Fig. 1 is an inverted perspective view of a shoe upper having a Welt in connection therewith before the upper is mounted on the last.

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of an improved last used in making shoes by my present method.

Fig. 3 is an inverted perspective view of the shoe upper mounted on the last before application of the wiper jaws thereto.

Fig. 4 is a view showing the upper held on the last by the wiper jaws and the welt coated with cement preparatory for attachment of the sole.

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view through the vamp and sole of a shoe made according to the present invention.

The shoe upper I, as illustrated in Fig. 1 of the drawing, is of conventional construction and is equipped with a welt 2 which may extend all the way around the shoe upper, as shown, or not, as desired. Also, the upper may be lined or unlined as preferred.

The bcdy 3 of the last is of conventional construction and is adapted and constructed for use in practicing the present invention by having a templet l attached to the sole of the last and having its marginal edge 5 separated from the edge of the last by a space 6 entirely around the templet. The templet may be made of any desired material or substance and attached to the last by removable and replaceable screws 1 in the central portion thereof and tacks or nails 8 along the marginal portion thereof.

The first step in the making of a shoe by my improved method consists in placing the welted upper on the last in the relationship shown in Fig. 3, in which the inner marginal edges of the upper l and the welt 2 are against the edge 5 of the templet 4. The templet 4 is of approximately the same thickness as the combined thickness of the marginal edges of the welt and upper, including the lining, if a lining is used in the upper. The inner marginal edges of the welt and upper are temporarily attached to the last and held against the edge 5 of the templet 4 by a number of tacks 9 driven through the margins of the welt and upper and into the last.

A coat or layer of cement II is applied to the entire lower surface of the welt after which the inner marginal edges of the welt and upper are pressed and supported against the edge 5 of the templet, by application of the wiper jaws ID to the space between the welt and the upper, as shown, and in a manner well known. The tacks 9 may then be removed.

Then, the outsole l2, having a coating or layer of cement covering its upper surface, is placed upon and pressed against the welt in position in which the margins of the outsole and the welt are approximately even. In this way, the outsole will be held in secure connection with the welt, but will not adhere to the templet because the templet is not coated with cement.

Next, the shoe is removed from the wiper jaws, or vice versa, and then the margins of the outsole and the welt are rough-rounded while the shoe is on the last.

Next, the outsole and welt are attached together by a row of Goodyear stitching 13, after which the last is pulled from the shoe leaving a space for a filler piece it. The space in which the filler piece It is placed is accurately defined by the inner edges of the upper and welt and by the cement-coated inner surface of the outsole [2, said space being of the same size as the templet 4 against the outer edges of which the inner edges of the welt and upper were held, as described. The filler piece [4 having a coating of cement on its lower surface is placed in the filler space and adhesively attached to the cementcoated surface of the outsole, after which the sole and filler are leveled. A sock lining I5 is then placed in the shoe and the finishing operations are performed.

' It should be apparent that, by this method, a shoe may be made more accurately as to size and provided with a space to receive a filler piece that will fit closely against all portions of the inner edges of the welt and upper. Distortion of the upper by pulling any portion thereof further over the last than any other portion is positively prevented by the templet 4.

This invention facilitates the manufacture of shoes where precision in size is desired. It is possible that the manner and the order in which some of the steps of the invention are performed may be varied without departure from the nature and principle of the invention.

I claim:

1. The method of making a shoe which consists in mechanically pressing and holding the marginal edges of a shoe upper and welt against the edge of a templet on the sole of a last,'adhe'- sively attaching the sole to the welt while the shoe upper and welt are held with their inner edges pressed against the templet, removing the last from the shoe, securing a filler piece in the filler space that was occupied by the templet while the shoe was on the last, and placing a sock lining in the shoe. 7 l

- 2. The method of making a shoe which consists in placing a shoe upper having a welt at- V tached thereto on a last that has a'templet attached to the bottom surface thereof and spaced inwardly from the marginal edge of the last, mechanically pressing and holding the marginal portion of the shoe upper against the bottom of the last and pressing and holding the edges ofthe upper and welt against the edge of said templet, adhesively attaching a sole to the welt while the upper and welt are held with their inner edges spaced inwardly from the marginal edge of the 1 last, mechanically pressing and holding the edges of the upper and welt against the edge of said templet and supporting the outer marginal portion of said welt; adhesively attaching a sole to the welt while the upper and welt are held with their inner edges pressed against the templet; stitching the welt and sole together, removing the last from the shoe, securing a filler piece in the filler space that was occupied by the templet while the shoe was on the last, and finishing the shoe.

4. The method of making a shoe which consists in mechanically pressing and holding the edges of an attached upper and welt against a templet onthe bottom of a shoe last, adhesively attaching a sole to the welt while the upper and welt are held with the inner edges pressed against the templet, removing the last from the shoe, securing a filler in the filler space that was occupied by the templet while the shoe was on the last, and finishing the shoe.

5. The method of making a shoe which consists in mechanically pressing and holding the edges of an attached upper and welt against a templet on the bottom of a shoe last, adhesively attaching a sole to the welt while the upper and welt are held with the inner edges pressed against the templet, stitching the welt and sole together, removing the last from the shoe, securing a filler in the filler space that was occupied by the templet while the shoe was on the last, placing a sock lining in the shoe, and finishing the shoe. 7

6. That method of manufacturing pre-welted shoes which comprises removably positioning in EDGAR G. WORTHINGTON.

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