US20220127764A1

US20220127764A1 - Process for making a perforated upper for shoes

Info

Publication number: US20220127764A1
Application number: US17/423,181
Authority: US
Inventors: Gianfranco Colosio; Paolo LENZI
Original assignee: Jvc Holding Srl
Current assignee: Jvc Holding Srl
Priority date: 2019-01-16
Filing date: 2019-12-10
Publication date: 2022-04-28
Also published as: CN113301823A; EP3886628A1; WO2020148024A1; IT201900000697A1

Abstract

At least one perforated area of an upper is produced by: at least two adjacent groups of needles are selected; a complete starting row is formed by both the first and second group of needles. The second group of needles is deselected and the first group of needles makes a first part of a first of intermediate row and a first part of a second and a third intermediate row. The first group of needles is deselected and the second group of needles makes a second part of the first intermediate row detached from the first part of the first intermediate row, a second part of the second and respectively a third intermediate row detached from the first part of the second and respectively third intermediate row. At least one end row is completely produced by both the first and second group of needles.

Description

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

The present application is a U.S. National Phase Application under 35 U.S.C. § 371 of International Patent Application No. PCT/EP2019/084361 filed Dec. 10, 2019, which claims priority of Italian Patent Application No. 102019000000697 filed Jan. 16, 2019. The entire contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a process for making a perforated upper for shoes with a circular inlay knitting machine, wherein the stitches are weft knitted.

BACKGROUND

As is well known, several types of shoes having a knitted upper are currently present on the market.
In the market there exist several technologies for producing knitted uppers, which, however, are characterized by intrinsic productivity limits or have limitations in the type of processes that can be carried out, and in particular they require a very large number of operations in order to obtain the desired result or even do not allow the desired result to be obtained.
Furthermore, knitting machines are present on the market which create a perforated knitted fabric that entails, however, the mechanical conveyance of one or more knit stitches from one needle to the other by means of special punches or mechanical members or else mechanical weaving elements.
This solution can complicate the construction of the knitting machine on the one hand and reduce its productivity on the other.
There is a need to have a production process capable of producing a vast range of knitted uppers, flexibly modulating their characteristics so as to adapt them on each occasion to the target sector.
In particular, depending on the type of use, the market demands uppers that enhance performance, convenience of use, resistance, lightness and breathability, all without ever neglecting the design and appearance of the product.

SUMMARY

The task of the present invention is to provide a process for making, with a knitting machine, an upper for shoes that overcomes the drawbacks of the above-mentioned prior art.
Within the scope of this task, one object of the invention is to provide a process for making, with a knitting machine, an upper for shoes, wherein the process is suitable for making a wide range of uppers with different properties without complications in the construction of the knitting machine.
It is a further object of the invention to provide a process for making, with a knitting machine, an upper for shoes that can be produced in an infinite variety of combinations of patterns and colors.
It is a further object of the invention to provide a process for making, with a knitting machine, an upper for any need and type of shoes, from technical and sports footwear to leisure and fashion footwear.
A last but not least object of the invention is to provide a process for making, with a knitting machine, a wide range of perforated uppers with varying degrees of breathability.
These objects and others that will become more apparent below are achieved by a process for making an upper for shoes with a circular inlay knitting machine, wherein the thread stitches are weft knitted with needles supported by a cylinder of the knitting machine driven in alternating rotation, characterized in that it produces in sequence, in the following manner, at least one perforated area of an upper comprising at least one starting knit row, a series of intermediate knit rows and at least one end knit row:

- a first group of needles and at least a second group of needles adjacent to the first group of needles are selected on the cylinder to form said knit rows;
- said at least one starting row is completely produced by setting to work both said first group of needles and said at least second group of needles;
- said at least a second group of needles is deselected and said first group of needles is selectively set to work, whereby a first part of a first of intermediate row, a first part of a second intermediate row and a first part of at least a third intermediate row are produced, wherein at least one intermediate needle of said first group of needles remains in a missed stitch position during the production of said first part of said first intermediate row, said first part of said second intermediate row and said first part of said at least a third intermediate row;
- said first group of needles is deselected and said at least a second group of needles is selectively set to work, whereby a second part of said first intermediate row detached from said first part of said first intermediate row, a second part of said second intermediate row detached from said first part of said second intermediate row, and a second part of said at least a third intermediate row detached from said first part of said at least a third intermediate row are produced, wherein at least one intermediate needle of said second group of needles remains in a missed stitch position during the production of said second part of said first intermediate row, said second part of said second intermediate row and said second part of said at least a third intermediate row;
- said at least one end row is completely produced by setting to work both said first group of needles and said at least second group of needles and by connecting said at least one end row directly to said at least one starting row at said at least one intermediate needle of said at least a second group of needles and at said at least one intermediate needle of said first group of needles.

The number of intermediate needles in the missed stitch position in each selected group of n needles can range from 1 to n-2, as at least the first and the last needle of the selected group of n needles must obligatorily not be in the missed stitch position.
The connection of the end knit row to the starting knit row at the intermediate needles of the first and at least a second group of needles advantageously determines a fold that imparts greater volume to the final product.
With the special process of weft knitting of thread of the invention, the first part of the intermediate rows delimits with the second part of the intermediate rows a hole in the upper crossed by a portion of the thread that connects the first part of the last intermediate row to the second part of the first intermediate row.
Advantageously, said second part of said first intermediate knit row is produced by prolonging the rotation carried out by the cylinder to form said first part of the last intermediate knit row.
In one embodiment of the invention, a knit stitch of said first part of the last intermediate row and a knit stitch of said second part of said first intermediate row formed by adjacent needles are connected to each other by said thread portion.
In a different embodiment of the invention, a stitch of said first part of the last intermediate row and a stitch of said second part of said first intermediate row formed by non-adjacent needles are connected to each other by said thread portion. Simply by varying the selection of the needles and consequently the position of the knit stitches connected by the portion of thread crossing the hole, the length and positioning of the connecting thread portion can be varied.
A variation in the length and positioning of the connecting thread portion can be used to vary the tension exerted on the hole by the connecting thread portion: the shape of the hole and consequently its capacity to impart breathability can thus be modified.
In one embodiment of the invention, said perforated area of the upper is produced with the technique of inlaying at least two threads.
In one embodiment of the invention, at least one of the threads is elastic. In one embodiment of the invention, the threads are of a different color.
In one embodiment of the invention, said perforated area is positioned at the upper and/or lateral surface of the upper.
In one embodiment of the invention, said intermediate rows are made with needles in a tuck stitch or loop position and/or in a plain drop stitch position and/or in a missed stitch position.
The present invention likewise discloses a weft-knitted upper for a shoe, characterized in that it comprises at least one perforated area having a first, a second and at least a third adjacent knit row each composed of a first and at least a second part of a knit row detached from each other, wherein the first part of the rows delimits with the second part of the rows a hole in the upper crossed by a portion of the thread that connects the first part of the last row to the second part of the first row.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Additional features and advantages will be more apparent from the description of preferred, but non-exclusive, embodiments of the invention, illustrated by way of non-limiting example in the appended drawings.

FIG. 1 is a view of a weft-knitted upper for shoes according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 shows an enlargement of the back of the perforated area of the upper of FIG. 1.

FIG. 3 shows an enlargement of the front of the perforated area of the upper of FIG. 1.

FIG. 4 shows a working diagram of the needles for forming the perforated area of the upper of FIG. 1, with arrows that indicate, from right to left, the sequence of formation of the intermediate rows on the starting rows.

FIG. 5 shows a working diagram of the needles of FIG. 4 with an arrow indicating the formation of the end rows on the intermediate rows.

FIG. 6 shows a working diagram of the needles of FIG. 4 at the end of the formation of all the rows of the perforated area.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

With reference to the figures, they show a process for making an upper for shoes. The process is carried out in a circular inlay knitting machine, wherein the thread stitches are weft knitted with needles supported by a cylinder driven in alternating rotation.
The process comprises, during the formation of the upper, the formation of at least one perforated area of the upper.
Naturally, several adjacent or separated perforated areas can be provided and the perforated area can also extend to the whole upper.
In general, however, the perforated area is positioned on a part of the upper that remains exposed to view after the application of a sole to create the shoe, and can therefore involve the upper and/or lateral areas of the upper.
The perforated area, in the minimum configuration thereof, comprises a starting knit row, a series of three intermediate knit rows having a hole, and an end knit row.
The number of the starting rows, intermediate rows and end rows can be varied as desired.
The number of holes in the series of intermediate rows can also be varied as desired.
Finally, by repeating the process it is possible to create a series of such perforated areas that can be varied as desired.
The formation of the perforated area of the upper comprises performing a sequence of operations described with reference to the diagram shown in FIGS. 4-6, which represents only one among the many ways of implementing the invention.
In this specific case it is desired to make, with the inlay technique, a series of perforated areas 2 of the upper 1 shown with squares in FIG. 1.
Each perforated area 2 comprises a series 3 of starting rows, a series 4 of intermediate rows having four holes 5, and a series 6 of end rows.
In order to obtain the four holes 5, it is necessary to select five groups 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 of needles on the cylinder, wherein each group is adjacent to the next one.
In order to obtain a single hole, it would be necessary to select only two groups of adjacent needles on the cylinder.
The number of groups of needles is thus selected according to the number of holes it is desired to obtain.
Initially, the starting rows 3 are completely produced by setting to work all of the groups 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 of needles. Every subsequent starting row 3 is obtained by reversing the direction of rotation assumed by the cylinder when producing the previous starting row 3.
Then the second, third, fourth and fifth groups of needles 8, 9, 10, 11 are deselected and only the first group of needles 7 is set to work, whereby a first part 4 a of the intermediate rows 4 is produced. Every first part 4 a of a subsequent intermediate row 4 is obtained by reversing the direction of rotation assumed by the cylinder when producing the first part 4 a of the previous intermediate row 4.
In this step, at least one intermediate needle of the first group of needles 7 remains in a missed stitch position during the production of the first part 4 a of every intermediate row 4.
In the case illustrated by way of example, four intermediate needles (positions 45 to 48) remain in a missed stitch position.
Then the first, third, fourth and fifth groups of needles 7, 9, 10, 11 are deselected and only the second group of needles 8 is set to work, whereby a second part 4 b of the intermediate rows 4 is produced. Every second part 4 b of a subsequent intermediate row 4 is obtained by reversing the direction of rotation assumed by the cylinder when producing the second part 4 b of the previous intermediate row 4. The second part 4 b of the first intermediate row 4 is obtained by prolonging the rotation carried out by the cylinder for the formation of the first part 4 a of the last intermediate knit row 4.
In this step at least one intermediate needle of the second group of needles 8 remains in a missed stitch position during the production of the second part 4 b of every intermediate row 4.
In the case illustrated by way of example, four intermediate needles (positions 37 to 40) remain in a missed stitch position.
Then the first, second, fourth and fifth groups of needles 7, 8, 10, 11 are deselected and only the third group of needles 9 is set work, whereby a third part 4 c of the intermediate rows 4 is produced. Every third part 4 c of a subsequent intermediate row 4 is obtained by reversing the direction of rotation assumed by the cylinder when producing the third part 4 c of the previous intermediate row 4. The third part 4 c of the first intermediate row 4 is obtained by prolonging the rotation carried out by the cylinder for the formation of the second part 4 b of the last intermediate knit row 4.
In this step, at least one intermediate needle of the third group of needles 9 remains in a missed stitch position during the production of the third part 4 c of every intermediate row 4.
In the case illustrated by way of example, four intermediate needles (positions 29 to 32) remain in a missed stitch position.
Then the first, second, third and fifth groups of needles 7, 8, 9, 11 are deselected and only the fourth group of needles 10 is set to work, whereby a fourth part 4 d of the intermediate rows 4 is produced. Every fourth part 4 d of a successive intermediate row 4 is obtained by reversing the direction of rotation assumed by the cylinder when producing the fourth part 4 d of the previous intermediate row 4. The fourth part 4 d of the first intermediate row 4 is obtained by prolonging the rotation carried out by the cylinder for the formation of the third part 4 c of the last intermediate knit row 4.
In this step, at least one intermediate needle of the fourth group of needles 10 remains in a missed stitch position during the production of the fourth part 4 d of every intermediate row 4.
In the case illustrated by way of example, four intermediate needles (positions 21 to 24) remain in a missed stitch position.
Then the first, second, third and fourth groups of needles 7, 8, 9, 10 are deselected and only the fifth group of needles 11 is set to work, whereby the fifth and last part 4 e of the intermediate rows 4 is produced. Every fifth part 4 e of a subsequent intermediate row 4 is obtained by reversing the direction of rotation assumed by the cylinder when producing the fifth part 4 e of the previous intermediate row 4. The fifth part 4 e of the first intermediate row 4 is obtained by prolonging the rotation carried out by the cylinder for the formation of the fourth part 4 d of the last intermediate knit row 4.
In this step, at least one intermediate needle of the fifth group of needles 11 remains in a missed stitch position during the production of the fifth part 4 e of every intermediate row 4.
In the case illustrated by way of example, four intermediate needles (positions 13 to 16) remain in a missed stitch position.
Finally, all of the groups of needles 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 are set to work again, so that the end rows 6 are completely produced. Every subsequent end row 6 is obtained by reversing the direction of rotation assumed by the cylinder when producing the previous end row 6.
It follows, accordingly, that the second part 4 b of the intermediate rows is detached from the first part 4 a of the intermediate rows 4, in the sense that the initial stitch of each second part 4 b of the intermediate rows 4 is not connected to the final stitch of the first part 4 a of the intermediate row 4 corresponding to it, and the detached stitches of the first part 4 a of the intermediate rows 4 and of the second part 4 b of the intermediate rows 4 delimit a first hole 5 crossed by a part of the thread 12 that connects the first part 4 a of the last intermediate row 4 to the second part 4 b of the first intermediate row 4; the third part 4 c of the intermediate rows is detached from the second part 4 b of the intermediate rows 4, in the sense that the initial stitch of each third part 4 c of the intermediate rows 4 is not connected to the final stitch of the second part 4 b of the intermediate row 4 corresponding to it, and the detached stitches of the third part 4 c of the intermediate rows 4 and of the second part 4 b of the intermediate rows 4 delimit a second hole 5 crossed by a portion 12 of the thread that connects the second part 4 b of the last intermediate row 4 to the third part 4 c of the first intermediate row 4; and so on for the third, fourth and fifth holes 5.
The connection with the thread portion 12 is between a knit stitch of each part of the last intermediate row 4 and a knit stitch of the subsequent part of the first intermediate row 4 made by adjacent needles, but said connection can take place between knit stitches made with non-adjacent needles.
It should be noted that the first end knit row 6 is directly connected to the last starting knit row 3 at the intermediate needles (positions 45-48, 37-40, 29-32, 21-24, 13-16) of the first, second, third, fourth and fifth groups of needles 7, 8, 9, 10, 11.
The direct connection between the first end knit row 6 and the last starting knit row 3 generates a fold which imparts greater volume to the final product.
The perforated area of the upper 2 is made using the technique of inlaying two threads preferably of a different color and mechanical properties, for example a non-elastic thread for the formation of the starting row 3 and end row 6, and an elastic thread for the formation of the intermediate rows 4.
In a variant of the invention, the perforated area of the upper can be made with a single thread or with more than two threads.
Naturally, the rows 3, 4 and 6, both the intermediate ones and the starting and end ones, can be made with needles in a tuck stitch or loop position and/or in a plain drop stitch position and/or in a missed stitch position.
In the illustrated process, the elastic thread in the central area of the various parts of intermediate rows 4 is knitted by a series of adjacent needles in a missed stitch position so as to give more emphasis to the overlying stitches of non-elastic thread. The process for making a weft-knitted upper for shoes according to the invention is susceptible of numerous modifications and variants, all falling within the scope of the inventive concept; furthermore, all of the details may be replaced with technically equivalent elements.
The materials used, as well the dimensions, can be any according to need and the state of the art.

Claims

1. A process for making an upper for shoes with a circular inlay knitting machine wherein the thread stitches are weft knitted with needles supported by a cylinder of the knitting machine driven in alternating rotation, wherein it produces in sequence, in the following manner, at least one perforated area of an upper comprising at least one starting knit row, a series of intermediate knit rows and at least one end knit row:

a first group of needles and at least a second group of needles adjacent to the first group of needles are selected on the cylinder to form said knit rows;

said at least one starting row is completely produced by setting to work both said first group of needles and said at least second group of needles;

said at least a second group of needles is deselected and said first group of needles is selectively set to work, whereby a first part of a first of intermediate row, a first part of a second intermediate row and a first part of at least a third intermediate row are produced, wherein at least one intermediate needle of said first group of needles remains in a missed stitch position during the production of said first part of said first intermediate row, said first part of said second intermediate row and said first part of said at least a third intermediate row;

said first group of needles is deselected and said at least a second group of needles is selectively set to work, whereby a second part of said first intermediate row detached from said first part of said first intermediate row, a second part of said second intermediate row detached from said first part of said second intermediate row, and a second part of said at least a third intermediate row detached from said first part of said at least a third intermediate row are produced, wherein at least one intermediate needle of said second group of needles remains in a missed stitch position during the production of said second part of said first intermediate row, said second part of said second intermediate row and said second part of said at least a third intermediate row;

said at least one end row is completely produced by setting to work both said first group of needles and said at least second group of needles and by connecting said at least one end row directly to said at least one starting row at said at least one intermediate needle of said at least a second group of needles and at said at least one intermediate needle of said first group of needles.

2. The process for making an upper for shoes according to claim 1, wherein said first part of the intermediate rows delimits with said second part of the intermediate rows a hole of the upper crossed by a portion of the thread that connects the first part of the last intermediate row to the second part (f the first intermediate row.

3. The process for making an upper for shoes according to any preceding claim, claim 1, wherein said second part of said first intermediate knit row is produced by prolonging the rotation carried out by the cylinder to form said first part of the last intermediate knit row.

4. The process for making an upper for shoes according to claim 2, wherein a knit stitch of said first part of the last intermediate row and a knit stitch of said second part of said first intermediate row made by adjacent needles are connected by said thread portion.

5. The process for making an upper for shoes according to claim 2, wherein a knit stitch of said first part of the last intermediate row and a knit stitch of said second part of said first intermediate row made by non-adjacent needles are connected by said thread portion.

6. The process for making an upper for shoes according to claim 1, wherein said perforated area of the upper is made with a technique of inlaying at least two threads.

7. The process for making an upper for shoes according to claim 6, wherein at least one of the threads is elastic.

8. The process for making an upper for shoes according to claim 6, wherein the threads are of a different color.

9. The process for making an upper for shoes according to claim 1, wherein said perforated area is positioned at the upper and/or lateral surface of the upper.

10. The process for making an upper for shoes according to claim 1, wherein said intermediate rows are made with needles in a tuck stitch or loop position and/or in a plain drop stitch position and/or in a missed stitch position.

11. A weft-knitted upper for a shoe, wherein it comprises at least one perforated area having a first, a second and at least a third knit row which are adjacent and each composed of a first and at least a second part of a knit row detached from each other, wherein the first part of the rows delimits with the second part of the rows a hole of the upper crossed by a portion of the thread that connects the first part of the last row to the second part of the first row.

12. A shoe comprising a sole and an upper in accordance with claim 11.