US20190038002A1

US20190038002A1 - Cosmetic Article Comprising A Mesh

Info

Publication number: US20190038002A1
Application number: US16/073,064
Authority: US
Inventors: Nicolas Castex
Original assignee: Chanel Parfums Beaute SAS
Current assignee: Chanel Parfums Beaute SAS
Priority date: 2016-01-29
Filing date: 2017-01-30
Publication date: 2019-02-07
Also published as: RU2018119177A; EP3407758B1; JP2019509779A; EP3407758A1; CN108601438A; KR20180101721A; CA3006441A1; FR3047155A1; WO2017129928A1

Abstract

The cosmetic product article including a solid block of cosmetic product with a breakage index measured at 20° C. of between 0.2 and 20 N, and at least one mesh, arranged such that the product passes therethrough and having through-holes, the largest dimension of which is between 50 and 300 μm.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to a cosmetic article especially for the lips.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

A lipstick typically comprises a tube and a block of cosmetic product, also called the bullet, housed movably in vertical translation in the tube. The bullet formulation is chosen to obtain the best possible make-up result while ensuring that the bullet offers good strength, especially mechanical and thermal. The proportions of the four main components of the bullet, i.e. waxes, oils, butters and pigments, can therefore be adjusted. The waxes act as structuring elements.
To obtain good make-up results, for example a better color, gloss or matt result, it is preferable to reduce the bullet solidity, for example by increasing the proportion of oils and butters. The formula obtained is then more flexible or more tender. However, this increase lowers the mechanical strength of the bullet, thereby making it more likely to break. In addition, this increase favors exudation phenomena which not only alter the initial formulation of the bullet but also have a negative visual impact on the consumer. Remember in this respect that a user is likely to keep this type of cosmetic article for several years.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An object of the invention is therefore to improve the cosmetic articles.
The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic article, comprising:

- a solid block of cosmetic product with a breakage index measured at 20° C. of between 0.2 and 20 N, and
- at least one mesh, arranged such that the product passes therethrough and having through-holes, the largest dimension of which is between 50 and 450 μm.

The breakage index indicates the mechanical strength of the block. In the above-mentioned range of values, the solid block of cosmetic product is strong enough to limit the risks of the bullet breaking if, for example, the applicator is dropped, knocked when being carried in a handbag or in use.
In use, the block of product passes through the mesh which destructures a fraction of the product block such that it changes from a solid state to a pasty state. This state is particularly advantageous since it allows better application of the product. In case of a lipstick, this state allows the user to obtain a better color, gloss or matt result, for example.
Thus, the advantages of the solid form of the cosmetic product when it is not used and those of the pasty form in use are obtained, while avoiding the disadvantages of the solid form of the product in use, i.e. more difficult application of the product and less satisfactory make-up result, and the disadvantages of the pasty form of the product when it is not used, for example poorer mechanical properties and exudation phenomena.
The above-mentioned range of sizes of the largest hole dimensions produces good block destructuring results without the user having to apply too much force to obtain the dose required for make-up. Furthermore, the fact that the block is in a particularly solid form means that formulations offering particularly good gloss or mattness results can be used, these formulations not being compatible with a more flexible form of the block. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous that the change from solid state to pasty state of the product, due to the above-mentioned characteristics of mechanical strength and size of the holes in the mesh, does not require any other operation on the product, for example a heating operation.
The largest dimension of the holes could be between 100 and 400 μm, preferably between 150 and 350 μm, more preferably between 200 and 300 μm.
Advantageously, at least one of the meshes is arranged such that a minimum edge to edge distance between the holes is between 100 and 300 μm.
This arrangement also helps to obtain good block destructuring results, without the user having to apply too much force. The minimum distance between the various adjacent holes in the mesh could not be constant between the various holes. The distribution of the minimum distances between the adjacent holes in the mesh could also be such that the product passing through the mesh is sent in a required direction.
The minimum distance between the holes could be between 120 and 280 μm, preferably between 140 and 240 μm, more preferably between 180 and 220 μm.
Preferably, the mesh or at least one of the meshes is woven.
The mesh is thus composed of interlaced weft and warp threads.
These threads could have different diameters. This special arrangement is used in particular to send the product passing through the mesh in a required direction to obtain, for example, a particular make-up result.
The mesh or at least one of the meshes could comprise a plate with holes.
This mesh is obtained for example by machining and is used to give the contours of the openings shapes which are difficult to obtain otherwise, for example by weaving, for example round, oblong, etc.
Preferably, all the holes in the mesh or at least one of the meshes have stackable contours.
Thus, the product paste is distributed homogeneously on the mesh on leaving the holes, allowing homogeneous application of the product.
Advantageously, the mesh or at least one of the meshes has holes with non-stackable contours.
The paste can therefore be concentrated at one or more particular positions on the surface of the mesh to obtain certain effects when applying the product or to apply it more precisely.
Preferably, the contours of the holes have one of the following shapes: rectangular, pentagonal, hexagonal, octagonal, round, oval or oblong.
Some of these various shapes also help to direct the product as it passes through the mesh.
More preferably, the article comprises at least two meshes one after the other in a direction in which the product passes through the meshes.
This characteristic offers several advantages. Due to the presence of several meshes, the product is guided more precisely, each mesh sending the product a little more in the required direction. These successive meshes also reduce the force required by the user to change some of the block of cosmetic product from solid to pasty state. Thus, the upstream mesh generates a first destructuring of a fraction of the product, which is then further destructured through the downstream mesh.
Advantageously, the two meshes forming upstream and downstream meshes, a largest dimension of a hole in the upstream mesh is greater than a largest dimension of a hole in the downstream mesh, the ratio between these two dimensions preferably being greater than 1 and less than or equal to 100.
This characteristic makes it easier for the product to change from solid state to pasty state. Thus, the block of solid product first passes through the mesh with the holes of largest dimensions which destructures the block to change from a solid product to a pasty product, and secondly passes through the mesh with the holes of smallest dimensions which reduce the viscosity of the product already in pasty form to obtain a product that is easier to apply and which gives a better make-up result.
Preferably, the article further comprises at least one intermediate mesh between the upstream mesh and the downstream mesh, a largest dimension of the holes in the intermediate mesh being between the largest dimension of the holes in the upstream mesh and the largest dimension of the holes in the downstream mesh.
We thus obtain a progressive decrease from the largest dimension of the holes in the successive meshes from the upstream mesh to the downstream mesh. The energy required to change the block of product from solid state to pasty state is therefore reduced. The user therefore applies less force when using the article.
Advantageously, the cosmetic product is a cosmetic product for the lips.
More preferably, the article further comprises:

- a body with a helical ramp,
- a product distribution tube with at least one straight ramp, the mesh being located at a distal end of the tube, and
- a piston adapted to slide the block of product inside the tube, the piston being attached to two studs each being adapted to travel along the helical ramp of the body and the straight ramp of the tube.

Thus, when the user turns the body relative to the tube, the studs of the piston travel along their respective ramps and the piston slides vertically, pushing with it the block of product, along the longitudinal axis of the article, this movement taking place without the piston rotating about the axis and therefore without the block of product rotating. This characteristic is particularly advantageous since it helps the block of product to pass through the mesh. The fact that the product is discharged without rotation also offers the advantage of giving the tube a bevel shape, this shape generally being preferred since it simplifies the make-up.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

We will now describe embodiments of the invention given as non-limiting examples in reference to the drawings, in which:

FIGS. 1, 8 and 9 are longitudinal cross-sectional views of articles according to three embodiments of the invention,

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of the mesh attached to its support of the article shown on FIG. 1,

FIG. 3 is an enlarged partial plan view of the mesh shown on FIG. 2,

FIG. 4 is an enlarged partial plan view of an alternative embodiment of the mesh,

FIGS. 5, 6 and 7 are longitudinal cross-sectional views respectively of the piston, tube and body of the articles shown on FIGS. 1, 8 and 9, and

FIG. 10 is a diagrammatic side view of the device used to measure the breakage index of the block of product.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

We will describe with reference to FIGS. 1 to 10 a cosmetic article for the lips. We will discuss below the case where this article is a lipstick. Obviously, the cosmetic product for the lips may be different and is not limited to red lipsticks, the color of the cosmetic product being for example pink, black, brown, etc.
The outer casing of the cosmetic article 1 shown on FIG. 1 consists of a body 2 and a cap (not shown). The body has a stop, formed by a shoulder, against which the cap can come into contact so that the body fits partially into the cap.
The body comprises two cylindrical portions, for example a substantially square cross-section in a plane transverse to the applicator body, the second cross-section being smaller than the first cross-section. These two cross-sections are separated by the stop. The body is hollow and open at its distal and proximal ends. The opening 11 of the proximal end of the body is partially closed by a bottom part 3 of the body which extends, from this end, in a plane transverse to the applicator body.
A cavity formed by the body 2 comprises, from the outside towards the inside, along an axis 13 of the body, a tubular element 4 having a helical ramp, a tube 5 and a piston 6 whose main longitudinal axes 13 coincide.
The tubular element 4 (see FIG. 7) has a hollow generally cylindrical shape with a circular cross-section in a plane perpendicular to the longitudinal axis 13 and is open at both ends. It has a substantially smooth outer face and an inner face having a groove forming a helical ramp 7 extending over most of the length of the tubular element 4. FIG. 7 shows eight helical turns. Obviously, the number of helical turns could be different, either more or less, depending on the required effect. The proximal end of this element rests on the bottom part 3. The distal end of this element 4 extends substantially to the stop. This element is rigidly attached to the body 2 of the article.
The tube 5 (see FIG. 6) forms a hollow cylinder with a circular cross-section in a plane perpendicular to the axis 13 and is open at both ends. The distal end of the tube 5 is beveled. Obviously, this end could not be beveled. The tube 5 has two slots forming two ramps 8 which extend from the proximal end of the tube to a median portion of the tube. The ramps of generally elongated straight shape are parallel to the axis 13. They are diametrically opposite each other on each side of this axis.
The piston 6 (see FIG. 5) forms a hollow cylinder with a circular cross-section in a plane perpendicular to the axis 13. The proximal end of the piston is open and its distal end is beveled and is closed by a portion 9 which is set back slightly relative to the distal end of the piston so as to form a cup in which the bottom of the bullet is inserted. This improves the connection between the bullet and the piston. On FIG. 1, the portion 9 of the piston which closes the distal end is flat and inclined relative to the axis 13 so that it is also beveled. The piston has, at the outer face of its proximal portion, two diametrically opposed guide studs 10 projecting from the outer face of the piston. Obviously, the studs could be placed at other positions on the outer face of the piston. Each of these studs are adapted to travel along the straight ramp 8 of the tube 5 and the helical ramp 7 of the tubular element 4. Possibly, the piston further comprises at its distal end a sealing bead 12 extending all around the distal end of the piston. Other means for guiding the piston may also be suitable.
The proximal portion of the tube 5 is therefore housed inside the body and the tubular element 4 and its distal portion extends outside, projecting from the body 2 of the article 1. The tube is mounted movably in rotation about the axis 13 relative to the assembly formed by the body 2 and the tubular element 4, by suitable guide means. The piston 6 is housed movably in translation in the tube 5 due to its studs 10 which are adapted to travel along the various ramps 7, 8.
The article 1 further comprises a solid block 14 of lipstick or bullet. This bullet 14 has a solid generally cylindrical shape with a circular cross-section in a plane perpendicular to the axis 13. The distal end of the bullet 14 has a beveled shape. Obviously, this end could have different shapes, these shapes being well-known by those skilled in the art. The proximal portion of the bullet rests on the distal end 9 of the piston 6. The piston is therefore adapted to drive by sliding the bullet 14 along the axis 13 inside the tube 5.
This bullet has a breakage index measured at 20° C. of between 0.2 and 20 N (i.e. approximately between 20 and 2000 grams-force).
This measurement is for example obtained with a reference test bench TCM 201M, and a force sensor 23 (dynamometer) of reference DFS 5 kilogram-force (kgf) (i.e. approximately 49 N) marketed by Chatillon with a rod lowering speed of 132 mm/min. The breakage index of a bullet represents the mean force that must be applied to break the bullet.
For the measurement, the product temperature is controlled since it has a direct impact on the results. The bullet may be heated to the required temperature before taking the measurement according to known methods. For example, the bullet could be left in a thermostatically-controlled chamber at 20° C. or in a room controlled at 20° C. The product temperature is measured using a thermometer inserted into the centre of the bullet before taking the measurement to ensure that the temperature between 19.5° C. and 21.5° C.
Generally, force sensors of 1 or 5 kgf can be used, 1 kgf force sensors allowing measurements up to a maximum measured value of 1000 gf (i.e. approximately 9.8 N), above this figure, the 5 kgf sensor must be used.
Referring to FIG. 10, the measurement is taken with a tube 24 of the same diameter as the tube 5. This tube 24 is placed horizontally with the bullet 14 in its original condition, as far out of the article as possible. The tube is held stationary with a blocking ring 20 and an attachment screw 21, the beveled face of the bullet being directed downwards (see FIG. 10). The rod 22, which comprises an inverted V-shaped stop, descends vertically at the programmed speed, i.e. 132 mm/min in this case, strikes the bullet 14 and breaks it. The dynamometer 23 gives a value corresponding to the maximum compression force measured as the bullet breaks, in other words the breakage index. Several tests can be conducted for a given bullet formulation in order to calculate a mean and a standard deviation of the breakage index.
The article 1 further comprises a mesh 15 of generally circular flat shape. In the embodiment described, the mesh is a woven mesh, made of metal for example, comprising warp threads 18 and weft threads 19, these threads forming holes 16 of generally rectangular shape. The fact that the mesh is made of metal is particularly advantageous, since when the product is applied on the lips, this produces a “refreshing” effect which is pleasant for the user. A largest dimension d, in this case a diagonal, of the holes 16 is between 50 and 450 μm. The weft and warp threads have a diameter a, b between 100 and 300 μm which therefore also corresponds to the values of the minimum distances between the holes. The mesh 15 is rigidly attached to the distal end of the tube 5 via a support 17. In this example, the holes are as follows:

- largest dimension: 280 μm,
- width: 100 μm,
- length: 261 μm,
- diameter of the warp threads a: 150 μm,
- diameter of the weft threads b: 100 μm,
- distance between the holes: 100 μm.

The support 17 has a generally cylindrical shape with a circular cross-section in a plane perpendicular to the axis 13. The mesh 15 is, for example, associated with the support 17 by overmolding the support on the mesh, the support being made of plastic. The support is connected to the tube 5, this connection being made all around the distal end of the tube.
FIG. 4 represents as an alternative a mesh which is made by machining, the holes 16 having in this case any suitable shape, round, oval or other.
When the applicator is not used, the piston 6 is in its lowest position, i.e. its proximal end is in contact with the part 3 of the article. The bullet 14 is located at a distance from and opposite the mesh 15 (not shown).
In use, the user holds the article 1 in both hands, the first hand holding the end of the tube 5 projecting from the body of the article and the other hand holding the body 2 of the article in its portion of greater dimension.
The user applies a rotational movement to the body 2 of the article relative to the tube, around the axis 13. This rotational movement causes the helical ramp 7 of the tubular element 4 and the straight ramp 8 of the tube 5 to move via the two guide studs 10 of the piston. This movement causes a straight translational or sliding movement of the piston 6 along the axis 13, the piston driving with it the bullet 14. The translational movement continues until the bullet 14 comes into contact with the mesh 15.
The user continues to apply a rotational movement to the body 2 of the article thereby passing the end of the bullet 14 through the mesh 15. This passage through the mesh destructures an end fraction of the solid bullet which is cut into thin slices which then recombine after passing through the mesh, outside it and on it so as to form a homogeneous paste. Once the bullet has crossed the mesh and has been destructured into a paste, this paste is ready to be applied. The user can thus easily apply this paste to her lips. Obviously, only the end of the block of product is destructured upon each application, most of the bullet keeping its integrity. The block is progressively destructured during the applications, as it rises towards the mesh.
In an alternative embodiment shown on FIG. 8, the article 1 comprises two meshes 15 at the distal end of the tube 5, these two meshes being in contact with each other and being attached to the same support 17. The two meshes are opposite each other and parallel to each other.
In use, the bullet passes through the upstream mesh then immediately through the downstream mesh.
This arrangement offers several advantages. The block of product is destructured to a greater extent, and a more fluid paste is obtained. Furthermore, especially if the largest dimensions of the holes 16 in the proximal or upstream mesh are greater than the largest dimensions of the holes 16 of the distal or downstream mesh, the force required to push part of the bullet through the meshes is reduced. The ratio between these two dimensions is greater than 1 and less than or equal to 100, and for example equal to 60.
These two meshes 15 may be made of the same material or of different materials. Furthermore, the two meshes may have holes 16 whose contours have different shapes, whether within the same mesh 15 or between the holes 16 of the two meshes. For example, the contours of a first mesh could have a rectangular shape and the contours of a second mesh could have a generally oblong shape. Obviously, a greater number of meshes could be considered, for example three, four, five or six meshes.
In an alternative embodiment shown on FIG. 9, the article 1 comprises two meshes 15 which are near to and opposite each other but not touching each other this time. The space between these two meshes is adapted to receive the bullet after it has crossed the first mesh, i.e. the proximal mesh and before its passage through the second mesh. The spacing between these two meshes can be maintained for example by spacers.
The advantages of this embodiment are the same as those of the previous embodiment. A more fluid product paste is therefore obtained and the force required by the user to change from solid bullet to fluid paste is reduced. As before, a greater number of meshes could be considered, for example three, four, five or six meshes. These two meshes 15 may be made of the same material or of different materials. Furthermore, the two meshes may have holes 16 whose contours have different shapes, whether within the same mesh 15 or between the holes 16 of the two meshes. For example, the contours of a first mesh could have a rectangular shape and the contours of a second mesh could have a generally oblong shape.
Obviously, numerous modifications can be made without leaving the scope of the invention.
The embodiments described use a mechanism to push the bullet. Any other mechanism known by those skilled in the art could be used. For example, the straight ramps can extend outside the part carrying the helical ramp. However, the configuration described with reference to the figures, wherein the helical ramp is outside the straight ramps, gives the helix a reduced pitch and therefore reduces the force required by the user to push the bullet through the mesh(es).
A mechanism allowing the user to provide a sliding force directly to make the bullet rise could be considered.
A mechanism in which the bullet is rigidly attached to the body and it is the mesh(es) which drop(s) down onto the bullet to destructure it could also be considered.
One of the mesh(es) could not be woven but made by machining a plate to produce holes, or an additive manufacturing technique (3D printing) could be used.
The dimension and/or distribution of the holes could vary over the surface of the mesh.
The holes could also have a dimension greater than another in order to destructure the formula more in one direction.
The mesh could also be concave or convex.
The mesh could be made of plastic, fabric or metal.
The cosmetic product could be intended for another part of the face. In particular it may be applied to the entire body. It could be a cosmetic product other than lipstick, for example, a care product.

Claims

1. A cosmetic article, comprising:

a solid block of cosmetic product with a breakage index measured at 20° C. of between 0.2 and 20 N, and

at least one mesh, arranged such that the cosmetic product passes therethrough and having through-holes, the largest dimension of which is between 50 and 450 μm.

2. The article according to claim 1, wherein one or more mesh of the at least one the mesh is arranged such that a minimum distance between the holes is between 100 and 300 μm.

3. The article according to claim 1, wherein one or more mesh of the at least one mesh is woven.

4. The article according to claim 1, wherein one or more mesh of the at least one mesh comprises a plate with holes.

5. The article according to claim 1, wherein all the holes in one or more mesh of the at least one mesh has stackable contours.

6. The article according to claim 1, wherein one or more mesh of the at least one mesh has holes with non-stackable contours.

7. The article according to claim 1, wherein contours of the holes are of a shape selected from the group consisting of: rectangular, pentagonal, hexagonal, octagonal, round, oval and oblong.

8. The article according to claim 1, comprising at least two meshes one after the other in a direction in which the product passes through the at least two meshes.

9. The article according to claim 8, wherein, the at least two meshes form upstream and downstream meshes, a largest dimension of a hole in the upstream mesh is greater than a largest dimension of a hole in the downstream mesh, a ratio between these two dimensions being greater than 1 and less than or equal to 100.

10. The article according to claim 9, further comprising at least one intermediate mesh between the upstream mesh and the downstream mesh, a largest dimension of the holes in the intermediate mesh being between the largest dimension of the holes in the upstream mesh and the largest dimension of the holes in the downstream mesh.

11. The article according to claim 1, further comprising:

a body with a helical ramp,

a product distribution tube with at least one straight ramp, the mesh being located at a distal end of the tube, and

a piston adapted to slide the block of product inside the tube, the piston being attached to two studs each being adapted to travel along the helical ramp of the body and the straight ramp of the tube.

12. The cosmetic product article according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic product is a cosmetic product for lips.