US20180343960A1

US20180343960A1 - Method of manufacturing a bi-axial braided article of footwear

Info

Publication number: US20180343960A1
Application number: US15/991,847
Authority: US
Inventors: Robert M. Bruce; Eun Kyung Lee; James Y. Yoo; Chikao Ichikawa
Original assignee: Nike Inc
Current assignee: Nike Inc
Priority date: 2017-05-31
Filing date: 2018-05-29
Publication date: 2018-12-06
Also published as: EP3631067A1; WO2018222885A1; WO2018222885A4; CN110603354A

Abstract

A method of manufacturing is provided, with an initial step of providing an automated braiding machine having a braid ring assembly and a plurality of spools associated with the braid ring assembly, each of the plurality of spools containing a strand of braiding material. When initially braiding the article of footwear, the spools on the braid ring assembly are in a first set of positions. Continuing, the article of footwear is braided beginning with a first end of the article of footwear with the spools on the braid ring assembly in the first set of positions. Upon reaching a transition point of the article of footwear, the spools on the braid ring assembly are positioned in a second set of positions. Finally, the article of footwear is braided from the transition point to the second end, with the spools on the braid ring assembly in the second set of positions.

Description

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims benefit of U.S. Provisional Application 62/513,202 filed on May 31, 2017 and entitled Method of Manufacturing a Bi-Axial Braided Article of Footwear. The entirety of the aforementioned application is incorporated by reference herein.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a braided article of footwear, and in particular, an upper for an article of footwear.

BACKGROUND

Articles of footwear typically have an upper that provides an enclosure for receiving the foot of a wearer. It is desirable to have an upper construction that supports and protects a wearer's foot, yet also provides comfort for the wearer. Accordingly, shoe uppers may be created using a wide variety of materials and manufacturing techniques, in order to impart flexibility and aesthetic characteristics desired by the wearer of the upper.
One such technique available for manufacturing a shoe upper is braiding. However, due to previous limitations with braiding as a shoe upper manufacturing technique, the individual yarns of a braided shoe upper were typically aligned in a single axis.

DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 depicts a schematic view of an exemplary braiding machine;

FIG. 2 depicts a schematic top view of an exemplary braiding machine, illustrating the carriages and rotor metals;

FIG. 3 depicts a view similar to FIG. 2, but with the rotor metals moving the carriages;

FIG. 4 depicts a view similar to FIG. 3, but showing the completion of the exemplary movement of FIG. 3;

FIG. 5 depicts an article of footwear, in accordance with aspects herein;

FIG. 6 depicts a perspective view of an exemplary braiding machine having a lead bobbin or spool in a first position, in accordance with aspects herein;

FIG. 7 depicts a perspective view of an exemplary braiding machine having a lead spool in a second position, in accordance with aspects herein;

FIG. 8 depicts a flow diagram of an exemplary method of manufacturing the article of footwear of FIG. 5, in accordance with aspects herein; and

FIG. 9 depicts an additional flow diagram of an exemplary method of manufacturing the article of footwear of FIG. 5, in accordance with aspects herein; and

FIG. 10 depicts an additional flow diagram of an exemplary method of manufacturing the article of footwear of FIG. 5, in accordance with aspects herein.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

Aspects herein are generally directed to a method of manufacturing an article of footwear having a first end and an opposing second end, the method comprising providing an automated braiding machine having a braid ring assembly and a plurality of spools associated with the braid ring assembly, each of the plurality of spools containing a strand of braiding material. The method further comprises positioning the spools on the braid ring assembly in a first set of positions, braiding the article of footwear, beginning with a first end of the article of footwear, with the spools on the braid ring assembly in the first set of positions, upon reaching a transition point of the article of footwear, positioning the spools on the braid ring assembly in a second set of positions, and braiding the article of footwear from the transition point to the second end the article of footwear, with the spools on the braid ring assembly in the second set of positions.
Additionally, aspects herein are generally directed to a method of manufacturing an article of footwear utilizing an automated braiding machine having a braid ring assembly, the method comprising positioning the spools on the braid ring assembly in a first configuration, braiding the article of footwear with the spools on the braid ring assembly in the first configuration, the method continues by positioning the spools on the braid ring assembly in a second configuration, braiding the article of footwear with the spools on the braid ring assembly in the second configuration.
Still further, aspects herein are generally directed to an article of footwear having a toe end and an heel opening, the article of footwear comprising a first section braided with a plurality of yarns in a first plane, a second section braided with the plurality of yarns in a second plane, and a transition section positioned between the first section and the second section, wherein the transition section further comprises a beginning transition point proximate the first section and an ending transition point proximate the second section, wherein the plurality of yarns of the transition section linearly transitions from the first plane to the second plane.
Braiding is a process of interlacing or interweaving three or more yarns diagonally to a product axis in order to obtain a thicker, wider or stronger product or in order to cover (overbraid) some profile. Interlacing diagonally means that the yarns make an angle with the product axis, which can be between 1 and 89 degrees but is usually in the range of 30-80 degrees. This angle is called the braiding angle. Braids can be linear products (ropes), hollow tubular shells or solid structures (one, two or three-dimensional textiles) with constant or variable cross-section, and of closed or open appearance.
As used herein, the yarns used for braiding may be formed of different materials having different properties. The properties that a particular yarn will impart to an area of a braided component partially depend upon the materials that form the yarn. Cotton, for example, provides a softer product, natural aesthetics, and biodegradability. Elastane and stretch polyester each provide substantial stretch and recovery, with stretch polyester also providing recyclability. Rayon provides high luster and moisture absorption. Wool also provides high moisture absorption, in addition to insulating properties and biodegradability. Nylon is a durable and abrasion-resistant material with relatively high strength. Polyester is a hydrophobic material that also provides relatively high durability. In addition to materials, other aspects of the yarn selected for formation of a braided component may affect the properties of the braided component. For example, a yarn may be a monofilament or a multifilament. The yarn may also include separate filaments that are each formed of different materials. In addition, the yarn may include filaments that are each formed of two or more different materials, such as a bicomponent yarn with filaments having a sheath-core configuration or two halves formed of different materials.
As discussed herein, braided structures can be formed as tubular braids on a braiding machine, such as a radial, axial or lace braiding machine. One example of a lace braiding machine can be found in Ichikawa, EP 1 486 601, granted May 9, 2007 entitled “Torchon Lace Machine” and EP No. 2 657 384, published Oct. 30, 2013 entitled “Torchon Lace Machine,” the entirety of which are hereby incorporated by reference. The upper portion of an exemplary braiding machine 10 is shown in FIG. 1. Braiding machine 10 includes a plurality of spools 12. In some embodiments, the spools 12 carry the yarn 14 selected for braiding. The yarns 14 from individual spools are selectively interlaced or intertwined with one another by the braiding machine 10. This interlacing or intertwining of strands forms a braided structure 16, as further described below. Each of the spools 12 is supported and constrained by a track 18 about the circumference of the braiding machine 10. Each spool 12 has a tensioner 20 (shown schematically in FIG. 1) that operates, along with a roller 22, to maintain a desired tension in the yarns 14 and the braided structure 16. As the yarns 14 extend upwardly, they pass through a braid ring 24 that is generally considered the braiding point. The braiding point is defined as the point or area where yarns 14 consolidate to form braid structure 16. At or near ring 24, the distance between yarns 14 from different spools 12 diminishes. As the distance between yarns 14 is reduced, the yarns 14 intermesh or braid with one another in a tighter fashion and are pulled linearly by roller 22.
As best seen in FIG. 2, each spool 12 is carried and supported by a carriage 26. Each spool 12 is movable about the circumference of the track 18 by rotor metals 28. As described on the Torchon Lace Machine referenced previously, and disclosed in EP 1 486 601, each of the rotor metals 28 can be moved clockwise or counterclockwise. In contrast to radial braiding machines or fully non-jacquard machines, in a lace braiding machine, each rotor metal is not intermeshed with the adjacent rotor metal. Instead, each rotor metal 28 may be selectively independently movable. As can be seen by comparing FIG. 2 to FIG. 3, as the rotor metals 28 rotate, they move the carriages 26, and thus the spools 12 supported on the carriages 26 by moving them about the circumference of the track 18. The braiding machine 10 is programmable such that the individual rotor metals 28 rotate the carriages 26, and thus the spools 12 to move them about the circumference of the track 18. As an individual spool 12 moves relative to an adjacent spool 12, the yarns 14 carried on the spools 12 interweave to create a desired braid pattern. The movement of spools 12 may be pre-programmed to form particular shapes, designs, and thread densities of a braided component or portions of a braided component. By varying the rotation and location of individual spools 12 various braid configurations may be formed. Such an exemplary braiding machine may form intricate braid configurations including both jacquard and non-jacquard braid configurations or geometries. Such configurations and geometries offer design possibilities beyond those offered by other textiles, such as knitting.
In some aspects, the size of braiding machine 10 may be varied. It should be understood that the braiding machine 10 shown and described is for illustrative purposes only. In some aspects, braiding machine 10 may be able to accept 144 carriages, although other sizes of braiding machines, carrying different numbers of carriages and spools is possible and is within the scope of this disclosure. By varying the number of carriages and spools within a braiding machine, the density of the braided structure as well as the size of the braided component may be altered.
Turning now to FIG. 5, an exemplary article of footwear 100 is depicted as having a first end 102 and a second end 104. In accordance with aspects herein, the first end 102 may correspond to a portion of the article of footwear 100 adapted to cover the toes of a wearer, while the second end 104 may correspond to a portion of the article of footwear 100 adapted to cover a heel or ankle end of a wearer. In accordance with the aspects discussed throughout this disclosure, the article of footwear 100 is generally braided from a first end 102 to a second end 104. In other words, the article of footwear 100 is generally braided from a toe end to an ankle end. However, it is envisioned that the first end 102 of the article of footwear 100 and the second end 104 of the article of footwear 100 may be reversed, such that the article of footwear is braided from an ankle end to a toe end of the article of footwear.
With continued reference to FIG. 5, the first end 102 of the article of footwear 100 generally corresponds to a first plane of braiding 106, while the second end 104 of the article of footwear generally corresponds to a second plane of braiding 108. As depicted in FIG. 5, the first plane of braiding 106 is generally placed in an X-Y orientation, while the second plane of braiding 108 generally placed in a Y-Z orientation.
However, other orientations of the first plane of braiding 106 and second plane of braiding 108 are considered to be within the scope of this disclosure. For example, the first plane of braiding 106 may be placed in an X-Z orientation, while the second plane of braiding 108 may be placed in a Y-Z orientation or an X-Y orientation. Regardless of the exact planes of braiding selected, the important aspect of the planes of braiding is that the first plane of braiding 106 and the second plane of braiding 108 are perpendicular to each other, such that a “Mobius-twist” is performed to rotate from the first plane of braiding 106 to the second plane of braiding 108. However, aspects in which the first plane of braiding 106 and the second plane of braiding 108 are not perpendicular are considered to be within the scope of this disclosure. For example, the first plane of braiding 106 and the second plane of braiding 108 may be offset 45 degrees from one another, or may be offset any other amount between 0 and 90 degrees from each other. Generally, the article of footwear will have the greatest resistance to stretch in a direction that aligns to the plane of braiding used to manufacture that portion of the article of footwear. In other words, the amount of “Mobius-twist” performed changes the functional characteristics of the article of footwear created by the methods described herein.
In accordance with aspects herein, the “Mobius-twist” is generally performed at a transition point 110 of the article of footwear, which generally refers to a point of the article of footwear in which the first plane of braiding 106 and second plane of braiding 108 intersect. In some aspects, the first plane of braiding 106 may transition to the second plane of braiding 108 instantaneously at the transition point 110. The transition point 110 may be located between 2 and 6 inches from the first end 102 of the article of footwear. However, in some aspects, the first plane of braiding 106 may gradually morph into the second plane of braiding 108. In this aspect, the transition point 110 may be more accurately referred to as a transition section 112, wherein the transition section 112 has a beginning transition point 114 a and an ending transition point 114 b. Similar to the transition point 110, the beginning transition point 114 a may be located between 2 and 6 inches from the first end 102 of the article of footwear.
Thus far in this disclosure, the discussion with respect to FIG. 5 has focused on manufacturing the exemplary article of footwear 100 comprises a first section 101 braided with a plurality of yarns in a first direction, which corresponds to the first plane of braiding 106. Next, the exemplary article of footwear comprises a second section 103 braided with a plurality of yarns in a second plane, which corresponds to the second plane of braiding 108. Further, the exemplary article of footwear 100 further comprises the transition section 110 positioned between the first section 101 and the second section 103, wherein the transition section 110 further comprises the beginning transition point 114 a proximate the first section 101 and the ending transition point 114 b proximate the second section 103, wherein the plurality of yarns of the transition section 110 linearly transitions from the first direction, or the first plane of braiding 106, to the second plane, or second plane of braiding 108. In accordance with aspects herein, transitioning linearly refers to the angle of the yarns rotating smoothly between perpendicular directions, the first plane and the second plane, over the length of the transition section 110. Alternatively, the plurality of yarns of the transition section 110 may transition in a non-linear manner, in which the angle of the yarns rotate quickly in one part of the transition section 112, and rotate less quickly another part of the transition section 112.
Turning now to FIG. 6, an automated braiding machine 200, similar to those shown in FIGS. 1-4 is depicted. In FIG. 6, the article of footwear 100 is shown as being braided beginning at first end 102. The automated braiding machine has a braid ring assembly 202 and a plurality of spools 204 associated with the braid ring assembly 202. The plurality of spools 204 may be integrally formed into the braid ring assembly 202, or provided separately and then coupled to the braid ring assembly 202. In accordance with aspects herein, at least some of the plurality of spools 204 may contain strands of braiding material, such as yarn, although it is generally desirable for the entirety of the plurality of spools 204 to contain strands of braiding material. One of the plurality of spools 204 has been shaded, and is referred to as the “lead spool” throughout this disclosure, for the purposes of tracking the positioning of the plurality of spools 204 on the braid ring assembly 200. As used throughout this disclosure, the braid ring assembly 200 may have a first set of positions 210 (FIG. 6) and a second set of positions 212 (FIG. 7), where the second set of positions 212 is obtained by rotating the spools on the braid ring assembly 202 from the first set of positions 210. The amount of rotation of spools on the braid ring assembly is completely variable based on the desired properties of the article of footwear. For example, the second set of positions 212 may be rotated 45 degrees from the first set of positions 210, or the second set of positions 212 may be rotated 90 degrees from the first set of positions 210. Alternatively, other intermediate amounts of rotation are considered to be within the scope of this disclosure.
For example, the lead spool can be tracked from the first set of positions 210 as shown in FIG. 6, to a second set of positions 212 as shown FIG. 7, which depicts that the braid ring assembly has rotated approximately 90 degrees. As discussed previously, the article of footwear 100 is braided, beginning with a first end 102, with the plurality of spools 204 on the braid ring assembly 200 in the first set of positions 210. In accordance with the “Mobius-twist” described herein, braiding the article of footwear 100 with the braid ring assembly in the first set of positions 210 results in a first end 102 of the article of footwear 100 being braided in a first braiding plane 106, and wherein braiding the article of footwear 100 with the braid ring assembly 202 in the second configuration results in the second end of the article of footwear being braided in a second braiding plane.
Turning now to FIG. 7, the automated braiding machine 200 is depicted as manufacturing an article of footwear 100, after the “Mobius-twist” has been performed. In other words, the article of footwear depicted in FIG. 7 has been fully braided in the first plane of braiding 106, has passed the transition point 110, and is now braiding in the second plane of braiding 108, meaning that the positioning of the spools on the braid ring assembly in the second set of positions 212. Accordingly, FIG. 7 depicts the automated braiding process after reaching and completely passing through the transition point 110 of the article of footwear 100, or in other words, after the “Mobius-twist” has been performed.
FIG. 8 depicts an exemplary method of manufacturing 800 an article of footwear having a first end and an opposing second end. The method 800 comprises the step 802 of providing an automated braiding machine having a braid ring assembly and a plurality of spools associated with the braid ring assembly. At this step, some or all of the plurality of spools may contain a strand of braiding material. Next, at step 804, positioning the spools on the braid ring assembly in a first set of positions. As discussed previously, the first set of positions generally refers to the position of the spools on the braid ring assembly when the article of footwear is being braided in the first plane of braiding 106, as depicted in FIG. 5. Next, step 806 comprises braiding the article of footwear, beginning with a first end of the article of footwear, with the spools on the braid ring assembly in the first set of positions. Further, step 808 comprises reaching a transition point (or transition section) of the article of footwear, and then positioning the spools on the braid ring assembly in a second set of positions. As discussed previously, the second set of positions generally refers to the position of the spools on the braid ring assembly when the article of footwear is being braided in the second plane of braiding 108. As further discussed previously, the second set of positions is generally obtained by rotating the braid ring assembly an amount between 0 and 90 degrees, as depicted in FIGS. 6-7. Finally, step 810 comprises braiding the article of footwear from the transition point to the second end of the article of footwear, with the spools on the braid ring assembly in the second set of positions.
Turning now to FIG. 9, flow diagram 900 depicts an exemplary method of manufacturing an article of footwear utilizing an automated braiding machine having a braid ring assembly. The method comprises step 902, which includes positioning the braid ring assembly in a first configuration. In accordance with aspects herein, the term “first configuration” and the term “first set of positions” may be used interchangeably. Next, step 904 includes braiding the article of footwear with the braid ring assembly in the first configuration, as depicted by FIG. 6. Moving forward, step 906 involves positioning the braid ring assembly in a second configuration. As also discussed previously, the term “second configuration” and “second set of positions” are used interchangeably throughout this disclosure. Finally, step 908 includes braiding the article of footwear with the braid ring assembly in the second configuration, as shown in FIG. 7.
Turning now to FIG. 10, flow diagram 1000 depicts an exemplary method of manufacturing an article of footwear using an automated braiding machine. As discussed throughout the disclosure, the article of footwear manufactured by performing the steps of flow diagram 1000 generally comprises a toe end and an ankle end. Next, step 1002 positioning a braid ring assembly of the automated braid machine in a first set of positions, the braid ring assembly having a plurality of spools. Moving forward, step 1004 depicts braiding, beginning with the toe end of the article of footwear, the article of footwear with the braid ring assembly in the first set of positions. Next, step 1006 depicts that upon reaching a transition point of the article of footwear, positioning a braid ring assembly of an automated braid machine in a second set of positions. Finally, step 1008 depicts braiding the article of footwear from the transition point to the ankle end.
Examples of the present invention have been described with the intent to be illustrative rather than restrictive. Alternative examples will become apparent to those skilled in the art that do not depart from its scope. A skilled artisan may develop alternative means of implementing the aforementioned improvements without departing from the scope of the present invention.
It will be understood that certain features and subcombinations are of utility and may be employed without reference to other features and subcombinations and are contemplated within the scope of the claims.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. A method of manufacturing an article of footwear having a first end and an opposing second end, the method comprising:

providing an automated braiding machine having a braid ring assembly and a plurality of spools associated with the braid ring assembly, each of the plurality of spools containing a strand of braiding material;

positioning the spools on the braid ring assembly in a first set of positions;

braiding the article of footwear, beginning with a first end of the article of footwear, with the spools on the braid ring assembly in the first set of positions;

upon reaching a transition point of the article of footwear, positioning the spools on the braid ring assembly in a second set of positions; and

braiding the article of footwear from the transition point to the second end the article of footwear, with the spools on the braid ring assembly in the second set of positions.

2. The method of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the second set of positions is obtained by rotating the first set of positions.

3. The method of manufacturing of claim 2, wherein the rotating of the first set of positions is between 0 and 45 degrees.

4. The method of manufacturing of claim 2, wherein the rotating of the first set of positions is between 45 and 90 degrees.

5. The method of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the first end of the article of footwear is a toe end.

6. The method of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the first end of the article of footwear is an ankle end.

7. The method of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the first end of the article of footwear is braided in a first braiding plane, and wherein the second end of the article of footwear is braided in a second braiding plane.

8. The method of manufacturing of claim 7, wherein the first braiding plane is perpendicular to the second braiding plane.

9. The method of manufacturing of claim 7, wherein the first braiding plane is offset 45 degrees from the second braiding plane.

10. The method of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the transition point is positioned between 2 to 6 inches from the first end of the article of footwear.

11. A method of manufacturing an article of footwear utilizing an automated braiding machine having a braid ring assembly, the method comprising:

positioning the braid ring assembly in a first configuration;

braiding the article of footwear with the braid ring assembly in the first configuration;

positioning the braiding ring assembly in a second configuration;

braiding the article of footwear with the braid ring assembly in the second configuration.

12. The method of manufacturing of claim 11, wherein braiding the article of footwear with the braid ring assembly in the first configuration results in a first end of the article of footwear being braided in a first braiding plane, and wherein braiding the article of footwear with the braid ring assembly in the second configuration results in the second end of the article of footwear being braided in a second braiding plane.

13. The method of manufacturing of claim 12, wherein the article of footwear further comprises a transition section positioned between the first end and the second end.

14. The method of manufacturing of claim 13, wherein the transition section further comprises a beginning transition point and an ending transition point, the beginning transition point defined at an end of the first braiding plane, and the ending transition point defined at an end of the second braiding plane.

15. The method of manufacturing of claim 11, wherein the second configuration is achieved through rotating the braid ring assembly between 45 and 90 degrees from the first configuration.

16. The method of manufacturing of claim 11, wherein the second configuration is achieved through rotating the braid ring assembly between 0 and 45 degrees from the first configuration.

17. The method of manufacturing of claim 11, wherein the first end of the article of footwear is a toe end.

18. The method of manufacturing of claim 11, wherein the first end of the article of footwear is a heel end.

19. An article of footwear having a toe end and an heel opening, the article of footwear comprising:

a first section at the toe end, braided with a plurality of yarns in a first direction; and

a second section at the heel end, braided with the plurality of yarns in a second direction.

a transition section positioned between the first section and the second section, wherein the transition section further comprises a beginning transition point proximate the first section and an ending transition point proximate the second section, wherein the plurality of yarns of the transition section linearly transitions from the first direction to the second direction.

20. The article of footwear of claim 19, further comprising a transition section positioned between the first section and the second section, wherein the transition section further comprises a beginning transition point proximate the first section and an ending transition point proximate the second section, wherein the plurality of yarns of the transition section linearly transitions from the first direction to the second direction.

21. The article of footwear of claim 19, wherein the first direction is orthogonal to the second direction.