US20160286911A1

US20160286911A1 - Ornament setting for a detachable ornament, products comprising such a setting and method

Info

Publication number: US20160286911A1
Application number: US14/900,398
Authority: US
Inventors: Marie-Ann Wachtmeister
Original assignee: Wacht & Troy AB
Current assignee: Wacht & Troy AB
Priority date: 2013-06-26
Filing date: 2014-06-26
Publication date: 2016-10-06
Also published as: JP6401259B2; WO2014209216A1; JP2016523171A; EP3013173B1; EP3013173A4; EP3013173A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to an ornament setting for a detachable ornament (3), comprising a setting base (1); two opposing ornament holders (2 a,b) fixedly attached to or integral with said setting base (1) and adapted for holding the ornament (3) between them; a clamping ring (4) encirculating said ornament holders (2 a,b), which clamping ring (4) has inner dimensions such that in a release orientation of the clamping ring it allows release of said ornament (3), and in a clamping orientation the clamping ring (4) exerts a clamping force on said ornament holders to grip and secure said ornament (3) placed between the ornament holders (2 a,b), wherein the clamping ring (4) comprises a spring metal layer (4 c) and at least one other layer (4 a,b,d,e). The present invention further relates to a method of detaching and remounting an ornament in said ornament base jewelry, as well as jewelry and watches comprising said ornament setting.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to jewelry and particularly to jewelry with an ornament which can be detached and remounted by the user.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

A number of different gemstone settings of widely varying designs are known in the art. These settings are used to confine and fix precious stones or similar ornaments to a piece of jewelry, such as a finger ring, broche, bracelet, necklace or tiara. The settings are made of more of less intricately shaped holding parts which typically require the substantial skill of a jeweler, making setting and replacing the stone or other ornament complicated, time consuming and expensive.
Traditionally the setting comprises a base with a number of prongs extending upwardly from the base, with the ends of the prongs being folded back over the stone or ornament to confine it and hold it securely in place. The number of prongs and their distribution depends on the size and shape of the stone.
Such ornament settings and similar commonly used settings typically require skill and specialized equipment to properly mount the ornament to the piece of jewelry. Hence, the detachment and replacement of gems and ornaments from such settings are difficult, rendering jewelry comprising such settings static in nature. In addition, for design and aesthetic reasons, the visible parts of prongs or similar structures that fold over the stone and partially cover it may not be desirable.
It is known in the trade to mount precious stones or other ornaments on pieces of jewelry made of titanium in a gem setting that renders the perception of the gem hovering in the air. The gem setting comprises two ornament holders similar to jaws which are connected through a base structure and face each other. On each of the inner mutually facing surfaces of the two ornament holders there is arranged a notch or groove designed to grip the precious stone or ornament. When an ornament of a suitable size is to be mounted, the ornament jaws have to be pried open or levered apart to allow edges of the ornament to slip into the groves whereupon the jaws are released and spring back to press against the ornament. The ornament is dimensioned slightly too large for the ornament fitting so that it is held in place by the grooves and by the inwardly directed forces exerted by the ornament holders as they strive to return to their original position. This construction works for titanium gem settings since this is a material that is capable of storing the tensions that arise when the ornament holders are pried apart and are thus resiliently deformed. It also works for alloyed gold and silver and other metals of sufficient resilience and strength. The construction requires special tools for mounting a gem and its use is restricted to materials that have a high capacity for storing tensile forces.
Examples of different replaceable gem stone settings presently existing in the jewelry field are found in the following publications.
Patent document EP 2 135 519 B1, to the same inventor as the present invention, describes an ornament setting for a detachable gem which utilizes in one embodiment an oval clamp ring which in one orientation can be slipped over the two grooved ornament holders and when twisted 90 degrees presses the ornament holders together to clamp and hold the gem in its setting.
Patent document US20050210920 A1 describes a secondary, detachable and decorative ring which is intended to be coupled and placed about another finger-worn ring to enhance its appearance. The device consists of an O-shaped jacket that fits around the finger-worn ring's center stone by hinging open at one point and clasping shut on the opposite side. The jacket locks snugly to the center jewel, staying in place by pressure. The purpose of the secondary ring is to augment the center jewel and does not in itself render the center gem stone replaceable.
U.S. Pat. No. 3,653,227 describes an interchangeable gem setting comprising two filiform circles contacting each other at a position secured in the piece of jewelry, and inclined so as to face each other with an angle. The diameter of the circles and their intermediary distance is smaller than the diameter of the gem to be mounted. The removability and retention of gem is rendered possible by the ability of the circles to be spread apart and spring back to encircle the gem and exert pressure against it.
Patent document US20010032481 A1 describes a replaceable gem stone setting in which the gem stone is held in place by a casing and a hinged bottom cover.
Patent document FR2740948 A1 describes a ring where a stone is held between two wings, where the wings comprise a rib and a notch for grasping the stone. A support is also placed at the base of the stone, by means of lower notches, to support the stone from beneath and prevent it from jiggling.
Patent document FR2870690 A1 describes a jewel with a setting where the stone is held between two wings and a hinged support, supporting the stone from beneath.
Other examples of related art are found in the patent documents US20070095104 A1, GB2215181A, DE20306830 U1, U.S. Pat. No. 4,800,738 A and CH341345 A.
There is a demand for jewelry settings which permit easy and secure detachment and exchange of stones or other ornaments on a piece of jewelry, primarily without any need for tools or special skills and that enables the use of a wide range of materials, such as gold or silver which are softer.
There is a demand for jewelry settings which allows a complete change of the looks of the jewelry e.g. by changing parts of the setting surrounding the center piece, apart from the stone or ornaments mentioned above.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An object of the present invention is to provide a solution to the problem of providing a setting which enables easy and secure detachment and exchange of gem stones or other ornaments to a piece of jewelry made of a wide variety of materials, utilizing a clamping ring which snaps into its clamping orientation.
It is another object of the invention to provide such a setting which is not as susceptible to wearing down of the component parts upon repeated use particularly when the piece of jewelry is made in a soft metal, such as gold or silver.
It is another object of the invention to provide such a setting which may comprise parts that are exchangable for providing a different look of the setting as well as a watch or jewelry comprising such a setting.
One aspect of the present invention is to provide an ornament setting for a detachable ornament, comprising a setting base; two opposing ornament holders fixedly attached to or integral with said setting base and adapted for holding an ornament between them; a clamping ring encirculating said ornament holders, which clamping ring has inner dimensions such that in a release orientation of the clamping ring it allows release of said ornament, and in a clamping orientation the clamping ring exerts a clamping force on said ornament holders to grip and secure said ornament placed between the ornament holders, wherein the clamping ring comprises a spring metal layer and at least one other layer.
In one embodiment the spring metal layer is rigidly fixed at at least one position with said at least one other layer. In one embodiment the spring metal layer is sandwiched between two other layers. In one embodiment the spring metal layer is arranged to flex outwardly as said clamping ring is rotated from its release position to its clamping position. In one embodiment the spring metal layer comprises two spring metal arcs. In one embodiment the spring metal layer is a single piece composed of two arc shaped portions integrated via an intermediate fixation portion, forming a substantially symmetrical layer. In one embodiment at least one inwardly directed protuberance is provided on the inner circumference of said clamping ring and at least one indentation in at least one of the opposing ornament holders, corresponding to said at least one protuberance and said at least one protuberance being adapted to lodge in said at least one indentation. In one embodiment the at least one protuberance is disposed on the spring metal layer of said clamping ring. In one embodiment the outer circumferences of the spring metal layer is coextensive with the outer circumferences of the at least one other layer when the protuberances have snapped into the indentations. In one embodiment the interior of said clamping ring is at least partly of oval shape. In one embodiment the protuberance is positioned at the smallest inner diameter of the at least partly oval shape. In one embodiment the setting base, which is open between the opposing ornament holders, is flexible and adapted to permit an expansion to accommodate an ornament being inserted and held between said opposing jaws. In one embodiment the facing surfaces of the opposing ornament holders are provided with grooves, notches, shelves or trays, or any combination thereof, for accommodating an ornament.
One aspect of the present invention is to provide jewelry comprising said ornament setting. In one embodiment the jewelry may be chosen from ring, broche, bracelet, necklace, earring, tiara, cuff links, bangles, tie clips, pins, tuxedo studs, forehead jewelry, charms, and hand chains.
One aspect of the present invention is to provide a watch comprising said ornament setting. The watch may comprise the ornament setting, a watch dial, and otionally a strap, bangle, chain or link.
One aspect of the present invention is to provide a method of detaching and remounting an ornament of an ornament setting, comprising the steps of:
a) providing an ornament setting according to the present invention comprising an ornament;
b) rotating the clamping ring clockwise or counter clockwise to relieve the clamping force applied on the ornament holders and to allow the opposing ornament holders to relax and release the ornament placed in between;
c) removing the ornament from the ornament setting;
d) providing another ornament between the ornament holders; and
e) rotating the clamping ring clockwise or counter clockwise to apply a clamping force thereon and to allow the opposing ornament holders to fix and secure the other ornament placed in between to obtain a mounted ornament setting. In one embodiment the clamping ring may be exchanged for another clamp ring having similar inner shape but different exterior appearance.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The invention will be explained in more detail in the following description, referring to the enclosed figures, where:

FIGS. 1, 2 and 3 show perspective views and a side view of a finger ring having an ornament in a setting according to the invention,

FIG. 4 shows a perspective view of the finger ring without any gem stone or clamp ring.

FIGS. 5(a) and (b) show in flat views two examples of clamp rings used with the setting according to the invention,

FIGS. 6 (a) and (b) show the clamp rings of FIGS. 5 (a) and (b) in perspective.

FIG. 7 shows the center layer of the clamp ring.

FIG. 8 shows the sandwich layered clamp ring.

FIGS. 9 (a) and (b) shows two versions of the three-layered clamp in as rectangular form.

FIG. 10 shows an assembled finger ring using the clamp ring of FIG. 9(b).

FIG. 11 shows another three-layered clamp ring embodiment in the form of a flower.

FIG. 12 shows a further advantageous embodiment of the clamp ring of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS

The wordings “clamp ring” and “clamping ring” are used herein interchangeably. The wordings “ornament holders” and “jaws” are used herein interchangeably.
The setting according to the present invention may be used for fixing ornaments, such as precious stones or other different ornaments. The ornament may be chosen from stones, watch dials, signets, pearls, and metal pieces, or any combination thereof.
The setting may be a part of a jewelry or a watch, which jewelry may be chosen from finger ring, broche, bracelet, necklace, earring, tiara, cuff links, bangles, tie clips, (lapel) pins, (tuxedo) studs, forehead jewelry, charms, hand chains etc.
It is to be noted that the precious stones or other ornaments may have different shapes and sizes.
The setting according to the present invention comprises ornament holders, preferably two, which are similar to prongs or jaws which are connected through a (setting) base structure and are facing each other. A precious stone or ornament may be placed in between said ornament holders. The stone or ornament is secured in its position by the aid of a clamping ring. The clamping ring is provided around the ornament holders, i.e. surrounds or encircles the ornament holders. The surfaces of the inner dimension of the clamping ring may partially be in contact with the ornament holders surfaces opposite to the ornament holders' surfaces which are facing each other. The mentioned surfaces may be named facing surfaces and back surfaces, respectively. The ornament holders may be gently pulled apart enough to remove and replace an ornament placed in between.
The clamping ring has inner dimensions such that in a release orientation of the clamping ring it allows the opposing ornament holders to relax and release a gemstone or ornament placed in between, alternatively insertion of a gemstone or ornament in between said ornament holders (jaws). The clamping ring has inner dimensions such that in a clamping orientation the clamping ring exerts a clamping force on said opposing ornament holders to grip and secure a gemstone or ornament placed in between said ornament holders (jaws). The clamping ring is in contact with the ornament holders at a position, this position may be anywhere along the ornament holders, e.g. a neck of the ornament holders. The neck may comprise a groove or an indentation of the ornament holders.
In one embodiment the clamping ring is adapted to be able to be removed from the ornament, e.g. by slipping said ring over both opposing ornament holders.
In one embodiment the clamping ring is in its inner dimensions partially of an elliptical shape (an oval shape).
In one embodiment the ornament holders may comprise, on their inner surfaces facing each other, a notch or groove designed to grip the precious stone or ornament upon securing the same.
In one embodiment the ornament holders may comprise, on their inner surfaces facing each other, a shelf or tray designed to hold and grip the precious stone or ornament upon securing the same.
The ornament holders are provided as a pair. The ornament holders at least partially encompass an ornament in a mounted setting. The ornament holders may be considered to be jaws clasping and may be fully or not fully enclosing a gemstone or other ornament. The ornament holders above the area where they are in contact with the clamp ring towards the gemstone or ornament may have different shapes. Each ornament holder may contain spacings or openings. The part of the ornament holder where the gemstone or other ornament is provided may be provided in a shape suitable for or adapted to the specific ornament to be secured. The interiors space formed between the ornament holders are intended to follow and reflect the shape of the ornament. The part of the ornament where the ornament is provided may comprise openings. Such openings may be present, at most down to the position of the clamp ring at the ornament holder. Thus, the ornament holders are not necessarily made from one single solid shape without any openings or spacings.
The ornament base structure is preferably of a shape which is at least partially flexible. The flexibility facilitate the detachment and remounting of an ornament. The ornament base may be in the shape of an at least partially circular shape. It may be a ring, an oval or a bended shape (e.g. an arc). In one embodiment the ornament base structure is a single circular ring shaped base. In one embodiment the ornament base may comprise at least two circular ring shaped bases. In this latter embodiment the circular ring shaped bases forming the ornament base, e.g. finger ring base, are parted from each other by at least one spacing. The circular ring shaped bases preferably are positioned facing each other to allow the ornament ring base to be placed on e.g. a finger of a wearer. Preferably the circular ring shaped bases are equally shaped. Thus, the ornament ring base may comprise at least one spacing running along its circumference, parting the ornament ring base in at least two sections. The spacing may be along at least a part of the circumference of the ornament ring base.
In the mentioned spacing between the circular ring shaped bases additional ring(s) fitting in said spacing may be incorporated to alter the look of the total ornament ring, e.g. finger ring.
The clamp ring may comprise or be composed of at least two layers. One layer being a top or bottom layer, preferably a top layer, and a second layer being a spring metal layer. Additionally the clamp ring may comprise a third layer, a bottom layer. The layers of the clamp ring are positioned adjacent to each other, preferably on top of each other. If two layers are used the top layer is closest to the gemstone or ornament and the spring metal layer is positioned below said top layer. If three layers are used the spring metal layer is sandwiched between said top and bottom layer. The at least two layers are attached to each other by points of attachment. These points attachment may be welding points between the layers or it may be holes of the layers which are joined by tacks.
The top layer and/or bottom layer may comprise precious stones and/or other ornaments as decorative parts of the upper part of the top layer not facing the spring metal layer. A clamp ring having three layers is reversable when used. A three layered clamp ring may be clamped around the ornament holders both ways, thus the top or bottom layer may be put closest to the ornament. If the top and bottom layers are different looking the look of the ornament setting change depending on which layer is closest to the mounted ornament in the setting.
The clamp ring is provided at and may be surrounding the opposing clamping ornament holders. The clamp ring preferably has an at least partially elliptically shaped interior. Across the oval shaped ring the dimensions are different. Across where the oval is most wide (the major axis) the jewelry may be provided with a gemstone or ornament between the ornament holders (jaws) which may be set with grooves to clasp the gemstone or ornament. The clamping ring may then be turned in either direction, clockwise or counter clockwise, around the ornament holders (jaws) wherein the oval shape of the clamping ring applies a force onto the ornament holders bringing them nearer to each other and resulting in a secured attachment of the a gemstone or ornament between the ornament holders. One must notice when the oval shaped clamping ring is at its most narrow interior axis, i.e. the smallest diameter, as this is a preferred securing spot. However, the gemstone or ornament between the ornament holders may be held in place also at other positions which are located between the widest orientation of the clamping ring and the narrowest orientation. The clamping ring is kept in place by aid of the spring metal layer of said clamping ring which flexes and applies the necessary force onto the ornament holders to keep the gemstone or ornament in place between said ornament holders.
For the locking and securing mechanism to work in a desirable manner the clamping ring preferably have an essentially oval shape. However, the ring is not necessarily a complete oval. The smallest diameter of the clamp ring, in the interior circumference, is where the clamping ring is in contact with parts the ornament holders to force the ornament holders to move closer towards each other and securing an ornament there in between.
In one embodiment the smallest inner diameter of the clamp ring is situated 90 degrees from the largest inner diameter of clamp ring. In such an embodiment the release orientation (release position at the largest inner diameter) of the clamp ring is 90 degrees from the clamping orientation (clamping position at the smallest inner diameter) of the clamp ring.
From this smallest diameter, the inner diameter widens along its circumference for the clamp ring as is the case for ovals until it reaches a maximum and thereafter the inner diameter decreases towards the corresponding smallest diameter.
The clamping ring may be of dimensions that when its shape, preferably at least partially oval shape, is moved so that the ornament holders are as far from each other as possible, i.e. when the clamp ring is in its widest interior axis, the clamping ring may be removed from its position along the ornament holders to separate said parts from each other. The clamping ring is then detached from the ornament holders. With such an embodiment the ornament may not be too large as the size of the ornament influences the distance between the ornament holders and thus also the inner diameter of a clamp ring if it is to be removable from its position around the ornament holders. In this embodiment the dimension of the gemstone or other ornament intended to be between the ornament holders preferably is smaller than or of similar size as the interior diameter of the clamping ring. Said interior diameter may be chosen from in any direction.
A large gemstone or ornament may be secured using the same technique as previously been described but in that case the diameter of the clamping ring in any direction is smaller than the diameter of the gemstone or ornament together with the size of the ornament holders around said gemstone or ornament. In this embodiment the clamping ring is encirculating the ornament holders and may not be slid along the ornament holders to remove it from said ornament holders. However, also in this embodiment the clamp ring may in at its smallest interior axis secure a gemstone or ornament between the ornament holders, as well as at its widest interior axis release said gemstone or ornament to enable e.g. a switch of gemstones and/or ornaments.
The spring metal layer is of a similar interior circumference shape as the at least one other layer. The other at least one layer have an at least partial oval inner circumference.
The spring metal layer may be in at least one piece, e.g. one or two pieces, which comprises points of attachment for securing and fixing it/them to the at least one other layer of the clamp ring. The points of attachment may be welding points or holes inserted with tacks or pins.
The spring metal layer may have an opening in its ring shape and is thus given a more horseshoe-like shape. The spring metal layer comprises at least one point of attachment, e.g. holes, for securing and fixing it to at least one other layer of the clamp ring. The spring metal layer may comprise two holes to fix it to at least one other layer of the clamp ring, e.g. both an upper and a lower layer of the clamp ring. This type of spring metal layer flex outwardly, and may form gaps, when the entire composite clamp ring is rotated between a release position and a clamping position. The spring metal layer may be made of flat.
The spring metal layer may be composed of two separate pieces, e.g. two halves. The separate pieces are in the shape of arcs. The arcs comprise points of attachment, e.g. holes, for securing and fixing each arc to at least one other layer of the clamp ring. The arcs may comprise two points of attachment each to fix each arc to at least one other layer of the clamp ring, e.g. both an upper and a lower layer of the clamp ring. The spring metal layer may be made of flat spring metal.
While at least one end of the spring metal layer is held fast via the points of attachment, its other end(s) can be pushed and flexed outwardly, and may form gaps, when the entire composite clamp ring is rotated between a release position and a clamping position. As the clamp ring is rotated towards its locked clamped position, the inner surface of the clamp ring will press against the ornament holders at their back surfaces, not the surfaces facing each other with the ornament in between. The clamp ring may be encompassing the ornament holders at neck portions of said ornament holders.
In order to find a secure fastening mean for the gemstone or other ornament between the ornament holders one may provide the clamp ring with protuberances, preferably on the spring metal layer. The protrusions may be incorporated into the inner dimensions of the clamp ring. These protuberances are preferably placed at the most narrow, i.e. the smallest, interior axis of the spring metal layer of the clamp ring. These protrusions may further increase the clamping force upon rotation from a release position to a locked clamping position. These protuberances of the spring metal layer of the clamp ring may be adapted to be received by indentations, e.g. dimple indentations, on the ornament holders/jaws on their outsides i.e. opposite sides to the sides facing each other. These indentations may be on neck portions of the ornament holders. Neck portions of the ornament holders may be present any where along the ornament holders. Thus, the indentations are placed on the ornament holders at a corresponding position to be able to contain the mentioned protuberances of the clamp ring. Upon securing the gemstone or ornament between the ornament holders, the clamp ring is turned from about its widest interior axis towards its smallest interior axis. Upon introduction of the protuberances of the clamp ring into the indentations of the jaws a secured and repeatable locking of the jewelry and ornament is obtained. This locking mechanism provides a clear locking feature to a jewelry user.
The indentations and protuberances are not necessary for the gemstone or ornament to be kept in place but they make it more secure for a user that the gem or ornament has been put in place at the best possible locking force and decreases the risk of too loose fastening of the gem or ornament. The indentations and protuberances also make it possible to get the best possible look of the assembled jewelry as the symmetry of the intended look of the jewelry is kept consistent.
In another embodiment further indentations may be made at the ornament holders, e.g. for esthetical reasons.
In one embodiment of the present invention the clamp ring has a partially oval shape. The oval shape is around the smallest diameter of the inner circumference of the clamp ring. A circle has 360°. An ellipse (or oval) is a kind of an elongated circle and have 360° as well. This means that the narrowest positions at the smallest diameter of the inner circumference of the clamp ring may be located at 0 and 180°. As an example the ellipse shape of the inner circumference of the clamp ring, continues for about 60° (e.g. 50°, 40°, 30°) at both sides of the narrowest positions (at the smallest inner diameter) of the clamp ring, i.e. where the diameter is the smallest. If about 60° at both sides of the narrowest positions of the clamp ring are of oval shape, then about 240° of the total clamping ring is of oval shape. The remaining parts (remaining 120°) may have any shape, e.g. from the center outward curved, pointed, blunt, partially circular, straight line etc. closing the partially elliptical clamping ring.
The holes used for fastening and securing the spring metal layer to at least one other layer of the clamp ring may be placed adjacent to each other in one half of the clamping ring, i.e. within 180° of each other. Another option is to place them about opposite to each other, i.e. in opposite sections of the spring metal layer, as well as the final clamp ring.
The present invention provides a clamp ring which is modular. It is built up of layers but in a discrete and invisible manner giving a viewer the impression of a solid ring.
FIGS. 1, 2 and 3 show one assembled finger ring according to the invention employing an ornament setting according to the invention, comprising a finger ring base 1 with two jaws 2 a and 2 b holding between them a gem stone 3. The jaws are pressed together by a three-layered 4 a, 4 c and 4 b clamp ring 4, in a manner which will be described below. Throughout the drawings, the same components, or those having identical functions have been given the same reference numerals.
FIG. 4 shows the finger ring 4 without its gem stone and clamp ring. It is possible in this view to see more clearly the finger ring base 1 which extends up to two spaced opposing clamping jaws 2 a and 2 b via a neck 10. The inside of each jaw is provided with a groove 7 a, 7 b for holding the edge of a gem stone (as shown in FIGS. 1-3). Each jaw is provided on its outside in its neck portion with a dimple indentation 5 a, 5 b, into which the clamp ring protrusions are to snap, pressing the jaws together and holding the gem stone securely in place, as will be described in more detail below.
FIGS. 5 (a) and 5 (b) show two different versions, one bejeweled and the other plain, of the clamp ring utilized in the ornament setting according to the invention. Each ring in this embodiment has an elliptical interior. Across where the oval is narrowest, i.e. has the smallest diameter, (the minor axis) the ring is provided with protrusions 6 a and 6 b.
The construction of the clamp ring can be seen more easily in FIGS. 6 (a) and (b). Each clamp ring is three-layered 4 a and 4 b with a spring metal layer 4 c sandwiched there between and having the protrusions 6 a and 6 b of the middle spring metal layer 4 c.
FIG. 7 shows in more detail the construction of the middle spring metal layer 4 c which is sandwiched between the top and bottom layers 4 a and 4 b to create the clamp ring 4. Two separate halves 4 c ₁and 4 c ₂make up the middle layer 4 c. The separate halves 4 c ₁and 4 c ₂are arcs of flat spring metal. Each spring metal arc 4 c ₁and 4 c ₂has two points of attachment, holes 8 to secure and fix each arc to the upper and lower layers 4 a and 4 b of the clamp ring. While one end of each flat spring metal arc 4 c ₁and 4 c ₂is held fast via the holes 8, its other end can be pushed and flexed outwardly, between the upper and lower layers 4 a and 4 b when the entire composite clamp ring is rotated from a release position with the dimple depressions aligned with the major axis (the widest distance) towards a clamping position. As the clamp ring is rotated towards its locked clamped position, clockwise in this case, the protrusions 6 a and 6 b will press against the neck portions 10 of the jaws flexing the ends of the spring metal arcs 4 c ₁and 4 c ₂outwards beyond the normal circumference of the clamp ring. When the protrusions 6 a and 6 b reach alignment with the dimple indentations, the protrusions of the spring metal arcs with snap into the dimple indentations in the neck thereby preventing the clamping ring from rotating out of its clamping position. FIG. 8 shows the two spring metal arcs 4 c ₁and 4 c ₂sandwiched between the upper and lower layers 4 a and 4 b of the clamp ring, the whole clamp ring package being secured by 4 pins 9 extending through the holes 8 of the plate metal arcs 4 c ₁and 4 c ₂.
A gem stone or other ornament is mounted in place by pulling the jaws 2 a and 2 b apart and fitting the edges of the gemstone into the grooves 7 a and 7 b. The inherent pressure of the finger ring 1 will provide preliminary holding in place of the gemstone 3. The clamp ring has already been slipped over the jaws oriented in its position with the major axis of the oval in alignment with the jaws.
Although the exemplary embodiments described here are provided with grooves 7 a and 7 b for gripping the ornament, it is also contemplated that other form locking fits than grooves can hold the ornament in the jaws, e.g. a concave depression dimensioned to snugly receive a rounded end or side of an ornament, or a shelf and bowl depression for crescent cut gemstones, each of these possibilities being encompassed within the definition of “grip an ornament” as defined in the main claim.
The clamp ring 4 is in its position with its major axis in alignment with the dimple indentations 5 a and 5 b. The clamp ring is then turned clockwise and as the neck portion of the jaws 2 a and 2 b come into contact with the ever narrowing span of the clamp ring 4, the protuberances 6 a and 6 b and the ends of the spring metal arcs 4 c ₁and 4 c ₂will be forced outwardly and the jaws holding the gem stone will be pressed more tightly together. Finally, the protrusions 6 a and 6 b will snap into the dimple indentations 5 a and 5 b in the lock position. The clamp ring 4 will be held securely in this position, with the jaws pressed together holding the gem stone, and may not be inadvertently rotated out of position. To release the gem stone and replace it with another, the clamp ring 4 is rotated in the counterclockwise direction first forcing the protuberances out of the dimple depressions in which they rest and then rotating the clamp ring 4 90 degrees to a position where the major axis of the inner oval of the clamp ring 4 is in alignment with the jaws. The jaws 2 a and 2 b of the finger ring 1 can then be gently pulled apart enough to remove and replace the gem stone. The clamp ring can only be removed, and replaced for example, after the gem stone has been removed.
According to an advantageous aspect of the present invention, the spring metal arcs 4 c ₁and 4 c ₂are dimensioned and mounted so that during the rotation of the clamp ring they are pushed outwards and may protrude slightly outside the clamp ring circumference defined by the layers 4 a and 4 b. When the protuberances 6 a and 6 b lodge in the dimple indentations 5 a and 5 b, the spring metal arcs have returned to a position with an outer surface exactly aligned with the outer circumferences of the outer layers of the clamp ring, thus presenting an attractive outer surface.
The construction of the present invention provides a secure fixing of the gem stone in the piece of jewelry than is possible previously in jewelry with user-interchangeable stones or other ornaments. Once the protuberances 6 a and 6 b on the spring metal arcs 4 c ₁and 4 c ₂snap into place, the clamp ring is held securely in its stone locking position. Releasing the stone again requires extra force to rotate the clamp ring counter-clockwise and force the protuberances out of the dimple depressions 5 a and 5 b. Also in this novel construction, the middle layer 4 c of the clamp ring 4 can be made of industrial spring steel, while the outer visible layers 4 a and 4 b can be made in softer precious metal such as gold or silver. Or the middle layer can be made of gold alloy such as white gold or other metals with spring properties. The neck portion 10 of the jaws 2 a and 2 b containing the dimple depressions 5 a and 5 b which interact with the protuberances can also be made in a harder metal or alloy, since it will not be visible when the stone is mounted. It is thus possible to change stones numerous times without wearing down parts of the ring.
A further advantageous embodiment will be described in relation to FIG. 12 wherein the spring metal layer is a single piece. The single piece may be described as having two integrated arcs via an intermediate portion forming a symmetrical horseshoe shape. It will be understood that this embodiment can also be realized with other shapes such as a complete oval with a slight gap between the ends of the spring metal arcs.
FIG. 12(a) shows the clamp ring of the invention in a slightly different form than the clamp ring 4 of the previous embodiment. In this case it is three-layered as in the previous embodiment, but the middle layer 4 f of spring metal is not made up of two separate arcs, each mounted at its end, but rather the two spring arcs 4 f ₁and 4 f ₂are integral with each other via an intermediate fixation portion 4 f ₃, forming a symmetrical horseshoe shaped spring plate 4 f. As in the clamp rings previously described, the middle layer 4 f is sandwiched between two outer layers 4 d and 4 e, but in this embodiment, the lower layer 4 e is provided with a raised filler section 4 e 1 which spans the space between the ends of the arcs 4 f ₁and 4 f ₂, creating a coherent clamp ring.
As in the embodiments described above the ornament is held in between the jaws 2 a and 2 b of an ornament base 1 (see FIG. 4). The very same ornament base, such as the ring in FIG. 4, is used in this embodiment as well. FIGS. 12(b), (c) and (d) show the advantageous operation of the clamp ring. FIG. 12(b) shows only the bottom two layers 4 e and 4 f of the clamp ring 4 f of this embodiment to more clearly show the spring action of the clamp ring. As in the embodiment described above previously, the oval clamp ring, before the gem stone is mounted, may be slipped over the jaws 2 a and 2 b with the major axis of the oval inner dimension of the clamp ring in alignment with the jaws to give it enough space to be slipped over. [This phase is not shown here in FIG. 12.]. The ornament, such as a gemstone, is then placed between the jaws, with the edges of the stone in the grooves 7 a, 7 b, and the clamp ring is rotated to the position shown in FIG. 12(b). Here only the neck 10 [see FIG. 4] of the two jaws 2 a and 2 b is shown and the stone held there between is not shown. In this locked position the protuberances 6 c and 6 d have snapped into dimple depressions 5 a and 5 b in the neck 10, locking the stone securely in place. To release the stone it is possible in this embodiment to rotate the clamp ring in either direction. Rotation counterclockwise is shown in FIG. 12(c) and clockwise in shown in FIG. 12(d). When rotating in either direction, the protuberances 6 c and 6 d will rise up out of the dimple depressions 5 a and 5 b and each of the arcs 4 f ₁and 4 f ₂, forming parts of the integral horseshoe plate 4 f, will be forced outwardly against the inherent spring force of the arcs, forming gaps 13 between the ends of the arcs 4 f ₁and 4 f ₂and pushing the arcs slightly outside the normal circumference of the clamp ring. This embodiment has the advantage of being symmetrical and being symmetrically loaded when the arcs are bent outwards. As in the previously described embodiment, the sandwich is held together by four symmetrically mounted pins 91 and 92. In this case, the symmetrical shape with the arcs 4 f ₁and 4 f ₂in an integral horseshoe plate 4 f means that each upper pin 91 will be subjected by lever action simultaneously to an upwardly acting and a downwardly acting force, thereby largely cancelling each other, extending the life of the ornament mounting considerably. It is also possible in this embodiment to release or lock a gemstone by rotation in either direction, making detailed and hard-to-remember instructions to the user unnecessary.

Claims

1. An ornament setting for a detachable ornament, comprising a setting base; two opposing ornament holders fixedly attached to or integral with said setting base and adapted for holding the ornament between them; a clamping ring encirculating said ornament holders, which clamping ring has inner dimensions such that in a release orientation of the clamping ring it allows release of said ornament, and in a clamping orientation the clamping ring exerts a clamping force on said ornament holders to grip and secure said ornament placed between the ornament holders, wherein the clamping ring comprises a spring metal layer and at least one other layer.

2. The ornament setting according to claim 1, wherein the spring metal layer is rigidly fixed at at least one position with said at least one other layer.

3. The ornament setting according to claim 1, wherein the spring metal layer is sandwiched between two other layers.

4. The ornament setting according to claim 1, wherein said spring metal layer is arranged to flex outwardly as said clamping ring is rotated from its release position to its clamping position.

5. The ornament setting according to claim 1, wherein said spring metal layer comprises two spring metal arcs.

6. The ornament setting according to claim 1, wherein said spring metal layer is a single piece composed of two arc shaped portions integrated via an intermediate fixation portion.

7. The ornament setting according to claim 1, wherein at least one inwardly directed protuberance is provided on the inner circumference of said clamping ring and at least one indentation in at least one of the opposing ornament holders, corresponding to said at least one protuberance and said at least one protuberance being adapted to lodge in said at least one indentation.

8. The ornament setting according to claim 7, wherein said at least one protuberance is disposed on the spring metal layer of said clamping ring.

9. The ornament setting according to claim 7, wherein the outer circumferences of the spring metal layer is coextensive with the outer circumferences of the at least one other layer when the protuberance have snapped into the indentation.

10. The ornament setting according to claim 1, wherein the interior circumference of said clamping ring is at least partly of oval shape.

11. The ornament setting according to claim 10, wherein said protuberance is positioned at the smallest inner diameter of the at least partly oval shape.

12. The ornament setting according to claim 1, wherein said setting base, which is open between the opposing ornament holders, is flexible and adapted to permit an expansion to accommodate an ornament being inserted and held between said opposing ornament holders.

13. The ornament setting according to claim 1, wherein the facing surfaces of the opposing ornament holders are provided with grooves, notches, shelves or trays, or any combination thereof, for accommodating an ornament.

14. Jewelry comprising an ornament setting according to claim 1.

15. Jewelry according to claim 14, which is chosen from ring, broche, bracelet, necklace, earring, tiara, cuff links, bangles, tie clips, pins, tuxedo studs, forehead jewelry, charms, and hand chains.

16. A watch comprising an ornament setting according to claim 1.

17. A method of detaching and remounting an ornament of an ornament setting, comprising the steps of:

a) providing an ornament setting according to claim 1 comprising an ornament;

b) rotating the clamping ring clockwise or counter clockwise to relieve the clamping force applied on the ornament holders and to allow the opposing ornament holders to relax and allowing release of the ornament placed in between;

c) removing the ornament from the ornament setting;

d) providing the same or another ornament between the ornament holders; and

e) rotating the clamping ring clockwise or counter clockwise to apply a clamping force thereon and to allow the opposing ornament holders to fix and secure the ornament placed in between to obtain a mounted ornament setting.