US20150044155A1 - Hair preparations comprising hydroxy-terminated organopolysiloxane(s) and conditioner(s) - Google Patents

Hair preparations comprising hydroxy-terminated organopolysiloxane(s) and conditioner(s) Download PDF

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Publication number
US20150044155A1
US20150044155A1 US14/521,638 US201414521638A US2015044155A1 US 20150044155 A1 US20150044155 A1 US 20150044155A1 US 201414521638 A US201414521638 A US 201414521638A US 2015044155 A1 US2015044155 A1 US 2015044155A1
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acid
preferred
oil
residue
polymers
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Erik Schulze zur Wiesche
Markus Semrau
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Assigned to HENKEL AG & CO. KGAA reassignment HENKEL AG & CO. KGAA ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: SCHULZE ZUR WIESCHE, ERIK, SEMRAU, MARKUS
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures

Definitions

  • the present invention generally relates to hair treatment agents which contain specific substituted silicone(s) and to the use of these agents for cleaning and/or conditioning hair.
  • Conditioning agents for keratinic fibers have an influence on the natural structure and properties of the hair. Accordingly, after such treatments, for example the hair's wet and dry combability and its hold and body may be optimized or the hair may be protected from increased splitting. It has therefore long been usual to subject the hair to a special post-treatment. In this case, hair is conventionally treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts, or specific polymers in the form of a rinse. Depending on formulation, this treatment improves the hair's combability, hold and body and reduces splitting.
  • special active ingredients for example quaternary ammonium salts, or specific polymers in the form of a rinse.
  • active substances are, however, not capable of adequately meeting all requirements.
  • surfactant- and/or electrolyte-containing formulations there is a need for additional conditioning active ingredients which can be straightforwardly incorporated into known formulations and do not have their action attenuated therein due to incompatibility with other ingredients.
  • Silicones and, among these, amino-functional silicones are known as conditioning substances in hair treatment agents, and corresponding products are widespread on the market. There is, however, still a requirement to improve the effects achieved, in particular with regard to handle, combability, softness and volume of the hair or hairstyle and to reduce input quantities.
  • the object of the present invention was to provide silicone-containing hair treatment agents which impart better properties to hair treated therewith than do hair treatment agents with known amodimethicones. Furthermore, it should be possible to achieve equally good or better effects even with distinctly reduced input quantities.
  • the products should improve the handle, combability, softness and volume of the hair or hairstyle and distinctly minimize the contact angle of water drops which come into contact with the treated hair, said contact angle being a measure of product performance.
  • a cosmetic composition containing in a cosmetically acceptable medium (a) at least one conditioning agent selected from synthetic oils, mineral oils, plant oils, fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, natural or synthetic waxes, compounds of the ceramide type, carboxylic acid esters, silicones differing from the silicones of formulae (I), anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates, cationic interfacially active substances and mixtures of these various compounds; and (b) at least one hydroxy-terminated organopolysiloxane of general formula (I),
  • R means a monovalent unsubstituted or halo-substituted hydrocarbon residue with 1 to 20 carbon atoms
  • R1 means a monovalent unsubstituted or halo-substituted hydrocarbon residue with 1 to 20 carbon atoms, —OR4 or —OH
  • R4 means an alkyl residue with 1 to 6 carbon atoms
  • G means a group of general formula (II)
  • R2, R3 mutually independently mean a divalent hydrocarbon residue with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, wherein non-adjacent —CH2 units may be replaced by units which are selected from —C( ⁇ O)—, —O—, and —S—;
  • A means R5-C( ⁇ O)—;
  • R5 means an alkyl residue with 1 to 20 carbon atoms;
  • a means integral values of 100 to 1500; and
  • b means integral values of at least 1.
  • the present invention firstly provides a cosmetic composition containing in a cosmetically acceptable medium
  • At least one conditioning agent selected from synthetic oils, mineral oils, plant oils, fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, natural or synthetic waxes, compounds of the ceramide type, carboxylic acid esters, silicones differing from the silicones of formulae (I), anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates, cationic interfacially active substances and mixtures of these various compounds, and (b) at least one hydroxy-terminated organopolysiloxane of general formula (I),
  • R means a monovalent unsubstituted or halo-substituted hydrocarbon residue with 1 to 20 carbon atoms
  • R 1 means a monovalent unsubstituted or halo-substituted hydrocarbon residue with 1 to 20 carbon atoms, —OR 4 or —OH,
  • R 4 means an alkyl residue with 1 to 6 carbon atoms
  • G means a group of general formula (II)
  • R 2 , R 3 mutually independently mean a divalent hydrocarbon residue with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, wherein non-adjacent —CH 2 units may be replaced by units which are selected from —C( ⁇ O)—, —O—, and —S—,
  • A means R 5 —C( ⁇ O)—
  • R 5 means an alkyl residue with 1 to 20 carbon atoms
  • b means integral values of at least 1.
  • the agent according to the invention is a cosmetic agent. While a distinction was in the past drawn between agents for caring for the human body, “personal hygiene products”, and those for embellishing its appearance, “decorative cosmetics”, these products are today together defined as “cosmetic agents”.
  • cosmetic agents pursuant to the present law are substances or preparations of substances which are intended to be used externally on a human or in his/her oral cavity for cleaning, caring for or influencing appearance or body odor or for imparting odor impressions, unless they are predominantly intended to alleviate or remedy diseases, illnesses, bodily injury or pathological conditions.
  • ⁇ 4 LMBG has not hitherto been brought into line with the EU Cosmetics Directive which ascribes six functions (cleaning, perfuming, changing appearance, influencing body odor, protecting and keeping in good condition) to cosmetics.
  • Substances or preparations of substances for cleaning or caring for dental prostheses are equivalent to cosmetic agents.
  • Substances or preparations of substances which are intended for influencing body shape are not deemed to be cosmetic agents.”
  • cosmetic agents for example for skin conditioning (bath preparations, skin washing and cleaning agents, skin care agents, eye cosmetics, lip care agents, nail care agents, intimate hygiene agents, foot care agents), those with specific action (light protection agents, skin-tanning agents, depigmenting agents, deodorants, antiperspirants, depilatory agents, shaving agents, scents), those for dental and oral care (dental and oral care agents, denture care agents, prosthesis adhesives) and those for hair care (shampoos, hair care agents, hair setting agents, hair deforming agents, color-modifying agents).
  • skin conditioning bath preparations, skin washing and cleaning agents, skin care agents, eye cosmetics, lip care agents, nail care agents, intimate hygiene agents, foot care agents
  • those with specific action light protection agents, skin-tanning agents, depigmenting agents, deodorants, antiperspirants, depilatory agents, shaving agents, scents
  • dental and oral care dental and oral care agents, denture care agents, prosthesis adhesives
  • hair care shampoos, hair care agents
  • Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from the group of shower gels, shower foams, tooth cleaning agents, mouthwashes, shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair masks, hair packs, hair tonics, permanent wave fixing solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair coloring agents, hair strengtheners, hair setting agents, hair styling preparations, blow drying lotions, mousse setting preparations, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • More preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention serve to treat keratinic fibers and are thus hair treatment agents.
  • Hair treatment agents for the purposes of the present invention are for example shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair masks, hair packs, hair tonics, permanent wave fixing solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair coloring agents, hair strengtheners, hair setting agents, hair styling preparations, blow drying lotions, mousse setting preparations, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • agents according to the invention are preferably those agents which a man uses in any event.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore for example shampoos, conditioning agents or hair tonics.
  • compositions of the invention have improved cosmetic properties (on hair for example lightness, softness, detanglability, natural feel and high-volume hairstyle, brightness) and the effects are moreover persistent and lasting.
  • said effects are resistant to many shampoos.
  • compositions of the invention when applied onto the skin (for example by a foam bath or shower gel), the compositions of the invention give rise to improved softness of the skin.
  • the agents according to the invention contain as first essential ingredient at least one hydroxy-terminated organopolysiloxane of general formula (I),
  • R means a monovalent unsubstituted or halo-substituted hydrocarbon residue with 1 to 20 carbon atoms
  • R 1 means a residue R, —OR 4 or —OH,
  • R 4 means an alkyl residue with 1 to 6 carbon atoms
  • G means a group of general formula (II)
  • R 2 , R 3 mutually independently mean a divalent hydrocarbon residue with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, wherein non-adjacent —CH 2 units may be replaced by units which are selected from —C( ⁇ O)—, —O—, and —S—,
  • A means R 5 —C( ⁇ O)—
  • R 5 means an alkyl residue with 1 to 20 carbon atoms
  • b means integral values of at least 1.
  • the individual siloxane units a and b in formula (I) and all the following formulae may be present as block copolymers or randomly distributed in each molecule; they are preferably randomly distributed.
  • agents according to the invention contain at least one hydroxy-terminated organopolysiloxane of general formula (Ia):
  • R, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 5 , a and b are as defined above.
  • the residue R 1 may denote a monovalent unsubstituted or halo-substituted hydrocarbon residue with 1 to 20 carbon atoms, an OH group or a residue OR 4 , wherein R 4 in turn denotes an alkyl residue with 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred residues R 1 are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, hydroxy, methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy and iso-propoxy residues.
  • More preferred agents according to the invention contain at least one hydroxy-terminated organopolysiloxane of general formula (Ia-1) and/or (Ia-2) and/or (Ia-3) and/or (Ia-4) and/or (Ia-5) and/or (Ia-6) and/or (Ia-7) and/or (Ia-8) and/or (Ia-9) as shown below:
  • R is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, phenyl residues, wherein R extremely preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or phenyl.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one hydroxy-terminated organopolysiloxane of general formula (I), in which the residues R 2 , R 3 are mutually independently selected from ethylene, n-propyl, iso-butylene or n-butylene residues.
  • R 2 particularly preferably denotes an n-propylene residue and R 3 simultaneously denotes an ethylene residue, such that the grouping G is preferably a grouping
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention therefore contain at least one hydroxy-terminated organopolysiloxane of general formula (Ie-1) and/or (Ie-2) and/or (Ie-3) and/or (Ie-4) and/or (Ie-5) and/or (Ie-6) and/or (Ie-7) and/or (Ie-8) and/or (Ie-9), shown below:
  • R groups are as disclosed on pages 14 and 15 of the priority document, and wherein particularly preferred instances of R denote methyl, ethyl or phenyl residues.
  • Cosmetic compositions according to the invention which are particularly preferred are characterized in that they contain at least one hydroxy-terminated organopolysiloxane of general formula (I), in which R 5 is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl residues, wherein R 5 extremely preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, n-propyl or isopropyl.
  • R 5 is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl residues, wherein R 5 extremely preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, n-propyl or isopropyl.
  • the index a denotes integral values of 100 to 1500.
  • a means integral values of at least 200, in particular at least 500 and at most 1300, more preferably at most 1100 and in particular at most 900.
  • Agents according to the invention in which a assumes values of 220 to 910 are more preferred.
  • the index b denotes integral values of at least 1.
  • b means integral values of at most 100, in particular at most 50, preferably at most 10 and in particular at most 5.
  • Agents according to the invention in which b assumes the values 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 are more preferred.
  • a and b are selected such that the organopolysiloxane of formula (I) has, under standard conditions (20° C., 1013.25 mbar), a viscosity (Brookfield RTV, spindle 4, 20 rpm) of at least 100 mPa ⁇ s, preferably at least 1000 mPa ⁇ s, further preferably at least 5000 mPa ⁇ s and in particular at least 15,000 mPa ⁇ s.
  • the viscosity preferably amounts to a maximum of 500,000 mPa ⁇ s, preferably at most 200,000 mPa ⁇ s, more preferably a maximum of 100,000 mPa ⁇ s and in particular at most 60,000 mPa ⁇ s.
  • Agents according to the invention in which the organopolysiloxane of formula (I) has a viscosity of 17,000 to 55,000 mPa ⁇ s are more preferred.
  • the amine value of the organopolysiloxane of formula (I) preferably amounts to at least 0.001 mmol/g, more preferably at least 0.01 mmol/g.
  • the amine value is more preferably at most 5 mmol/g, further preferably at most 1 mmol/g, still further preferably at most 0.1 mmol/g and in particular a maximum of 0.05 mmol/g.
  • Agents according to the invention in which the organopolysiloxane of formula (I) has amine values of 0.015 to 0.045 mmol/g are more preferred.
  • the organopolysiloxane(s) of formula (I) may be used in varying quantities.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that, relative to the weight thereof, they contain 0.00001 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.0001 to 7.5 wt. %, further preferably 0.001 to 5 wt. %, further preferably 0.01 to 3 wt. % and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt. % of organopolysiloxane(s) of formula (I).
  • Nonionic components which are particularly suitable here are ethoxylates of decanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tridecanol etc. Ethoxylated tridecanols have proven particularly suitable and are more preferentially incorporated into the agents according to the invention.
  • Cosmetic compositions which are more preferred according to the invention contain, relative to the weight thereof, 0.00001 to 5 wt. %, preferably 0.0001 to 3.5 wt. %, more preferably 0.001 to 2 wt.
  • % further preferably 0.01 to 1 wt. % and in particular 0.1 to 0.5 wt. % of branched, ethoxylated tridecanol (INCI name. Trideceth-5) or ⁇ -iso-tridecyl- ⁇ -hydroxy polyglycol ether (INCI name: Trideceth-10) or mixtures thereof.
  • Organopolysiloxane(s) of formula (I) which are preferred according to the invention have both hydroxyl and alkoxy groups.
  • Cosmetic compositions which are more preferred according to the invention contain organopolysiloxane(s) of formula (I) in which the hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is in the range from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, preferably in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1.
  • the average molecular weight of the organopolysiloxane(s) of formula (I) preferably amounts to from 2,000 to 200,000 and still more preferably from 5,000 to 100,000, in particular 10,000 to 50,000 dalton.
  • compositions in which the weight-average molar mass of the organopolysiloxane(s) of formula (I) present therein is in the range from 2,000 to 1,000,000 gmol ⁇ 1 , preferably in the range from 5,000 to 200,000 gmol ⁇ 1 , are preferred.
  • the average molecular weights of amino-substituted silicones may for example be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature in polystyrene. Columns which may be selected are ⁇ -Styragel columns, with THF as eluent and a flow rate of 1 ml/min. Detection preferably proceeds by refractometry and UV meter.
  • GPC gel permeation chromatography
  • the organopolysiloxane(s) of formula (I) are preferably used as an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion may contain one or more surfactants.
  • the surfactants may be of any desired kind, preferably cationic and/or nonionic.
  • the number-average size of the silicone droplets in the emulsion is preferably between 3 nm and 500 nm, more preferably between 5 nm and 60 nm (inclusive) and in particular between 10 nm and 50 nm (inclusive).
  • compositions according to the invention in which the organopolysiloxane(s) of formula (I) are present in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which the number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is in the range from 3 to 500 nm, preferably in the range from 5 to 60 nm, are preferred according to the invention.
  • a further essential component of the compositions according to the invention is a conditioning agent selected from synthetic oils, mineral oils, plant oils, fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, natural or synthetic waxes, compounds of the ceramide type, carboxylic acid esters, silicones differing from the silicones of formulae (I), anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates, cationic interfacially active substances and mixtures of these various compounds.
  • a conditioning agent selected from synthetic oils, mineral oils, plant oils, fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, natural or synthetic waxes, compounds of the ceramide type, carboxylic acid esters, silicones differing from the silicones of formulae (I), anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates, cationic interfacially active substances and mixtures of these various compounds.
  • conditioning agent means any compound which is capable of improving at least one cosmetic property of keratinic material such as hair, for example softness, silkiness, handle, detanglability or static chargeability.
  • the at least one conditioning agent may be water-soluble or water-insoluble.
  • Water-insoluble conditioning agents may be solid, liquid or pasty at 25° C. and 1013 mbar and may assume the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • Water-insoluble conditioning agents may also assume disperse form preferably having a number-average particle or droplet size of 2 nm to 100 ⁇ m, preferably of 30 nm to 20 ⁇ m. The number-average particle size is here determined using a granulometer. Water-insoluble conditioning agents dissolve in water at 25° C. to an extent of less than 0.1 wt. %, i.e. they do not form macroscopically isotropic, transparent solutions under these conditions.
  • Synthetic oils for example polyolefins, in particular poly-alpha-olefins may be selected from: poly- ⁇ -olefins of the hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene type or of the hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene type.
  • Isobutylene oligomers with molar masses of less than 1000 and mixtures thereof, with polyisobutylene with molar masses of greater than 1000, for example of 1000 to 15000 may preferably be used.
  • Poly- ⁇ -olefins of the hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecene type which are distributed under the names Ethylflo® (Ethyl Corp.) and Arlamol® PAO (ICI) may also be used.
  • Cosmetic compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the synthetic oil(s) are polyolefins of the hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene type or of the hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecene type.
  • Cosmetic oils may particularly preferentially be used as conditioning agents. These oil bodies preferably have a melting point of less than 50° C., more preferably less than 45° C., particularly preferably less than 40° C., highly preferably less than 35° C. and most preferably the cosmetic oils are flowable at a temperature of less than 30° C. These oils are defined and described in greater detail below.
  • Natural and synthetic cosmetic oils include, for example:
  • oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soy oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach stone oil and the liquid fractions of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid fractions of beef fat together with synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.
  • Ester oils should be taken to mean the esters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols with 2 to 24 C atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid moieties used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and the technical mixtures thereof, which are obtained, for example, on pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, on oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo
  • fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and the technical mixtures thereof, which are obtained, for example, on high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction on the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.
  • More preferred substances according to the invention are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid C 16-18 alkyl esters (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate/caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (C
  • dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
  • Partial glycerides preferably comply with formula (D4-I),
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 mutually independently denote hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl residue with 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups denotes an acyl residue and at least one of these groups denotes hydrogen.
  • the sum (m+n+q) denotes 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 denotes an acyl residue and R 2 and R 3 denote hydrogen and the sum (m+n+q) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and/or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and the technical mixtures thereof.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • Natural oils which may be considered are for example amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, maize germ oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soy oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.
  • the teaching according to the invention also includes its being possible for at least two of the natural oils listed the table above to be mixed with one another.
  • the natural oils can be selected such that the sum of the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid constitutes at least 50 wt. % of the sum of the fatty acids.
  • Preferred mixtures of the natural oils are amaranth seed oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, amaranth seed oil with shea butter, amaranth seed oil with camelina oil, amaranth seed oil with olive oil, amaranth seed oil with macadamia nut oil, olive oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, olive oil with camelina oil, olive oil with shea butter, macadamia nut oil and at least one sea buckthorn oil, macadamia nut oil with shea butter. More than at most three of the natural oils should, however, not be mixed with one another.
  • Argan oil is one of the more preferred natural oils.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the plant oil(s) are selected from sunflower oil, corn oil, soy oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, fish oils, glycerol tricaprocaprylate or plant or animal oils of formula R 9 COOR 10 , in which R 9 means the residue of a higher fatty acid with 7 to 29 carbon atoms and R 10 means a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain with 3 to 30 carbon atoms, natural or synthetic essential oils.
  • the plant oil(s) are selected from sunflower oil, corn oil, soy oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, fish oils, glycerol tricaprocaprylate or plant or animal oils of formula R 9 COOR 10 , in which R 9 means the residue of a higher fatty acid with 7 to 29 carbon atoms and R 10 means a linear or branched hydrocarbon
  • Natural or synthetic waxes which may be used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as for example apple wax or citrus wax, PE or PP microwaxes.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the wax or waxes are selected from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, animal waxes, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes.
  • the quantity used amounts to 0.1-50 wt. % relative to the entire agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt. % and more preferably 0.1-15 wt. % relative to the entire agent.
  • Compounds of the ceramide type may for example be selected from natural and synthetic ceramides, glycoceramides, pseudoceramides and neoceramides. Preferred representatives from these groups are 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and such as N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-pal
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the compounds of the ceramide type are selected from 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malon
  • Fatty alcohols should be taken to mean primary aliphatic alcohols of formula R 1 OH
  • R 1 denotes an aliphatic, linear or branched hydrocarbon residue with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and/or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds.
  • Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and the technical mixtures thereof, which are obtained, for example, on high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis and as a monomer
  • Preferred technical fatty alcohols are those with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as for example coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol.
  • Alkoxylated fatty alcohols with 1 to 15 mol of alkylene oxide, or polyglycerylated compounds with 1 to 6 mol of glycerol may also be used as conditioning agents.
  • Monocarboxylic acid esters may particularly preferentially also be used as conditioning agents. These are for example selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic C 1 -C 26 monoesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic C 1 -C 26 alcohols, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in the esters is 10 or more.
  • More preferred conditioning agents are dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C 12 -C 15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methylacetyl ricinoleate, myristyl stearate, octyl
  • C 4 -C 22 di- or tricarboxylic acid esters of C 1 -C 2-2 alcohols and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acid esters of C 2 -C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may likewise be used.
  • diethyl sebacate diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trio
  • compositions according to the invention in which the carboxylic acid esters are selected from ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate and cetyl octanoate are preferred according to the invention.
  • Silicones which differ from the silicones of formula (I) used according to the invention may also be used as conditioning agents.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one further silicone, preferably a silicone which is selected from:
  • polyalkylsiloxanes polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, which are volatile or non-volatile, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • polysiloxanes which contain in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups which are selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per)fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; l) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups; (iii) linear polysiloxane(A)/polyoxyalkylene
  • silicones which differ from the silicones of formula (I) are non-volatile polyorganosiloxanes which are selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums, silicone resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that
  • polyalkylsiloxanes are selected from:
  • polyarylsiloxanes are selected from:
  • polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes, polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes which assume straight-chain and/or branched form and at 25° C. have a viscosity in the range from 1 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 5 to 5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 2 m 2 /s;
  • the silicone gums are selected from polydiorganosiloxanes which have number-average molar masses in the range from 200 000 to 1 000 000 and which are used as such or mixed with a solvent;
  • the resins are selected from resins which are synthesized from units R 3 SiO 1/2 , R 2 SiO 2/2 , RSiO 3/2 and SiO 4/2 , in which the group R means a hydrocarbon group with 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group;
  • the organo-modified silicones are selected from silicones which bear in the structure thereof one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.
  • Agents which are more preferred according to the invention contain the further silicone(s) preferably in quantities of 0.1 to 10 wt. %, preferably of 0.25 to 7 wt. % and in particular of 0.5 to 5 wt. %, in each case relative to the entire agent.
  • x denotes a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, further preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular from 0 to 10.
  • silicones are known as Dimethicones.
  • Compounds of the following formulae are preferably used as the silicone of formula Si-I: (CH 3 ) 3 Si—O—Si(CH 3 ) 3 , (CH 3 ) 3 Si—O—(CH 3 ) 2 Si—O—Si(CH 3 ) 3 , (CH 3 ) 3 Si—[O—(CH 3 ) 2 Si] 2 —O—Si(CH 3 ) 3 , (CH 3 ) 3 Si—[O—(CH 3 ) 2 Si] 3 —O—Si(CH 3 ) 3 , (CH 3 ) 3 Si—[O—(CH 3 ) 2 Si] 4 —O—Si(CH 3 ) 3 , (CH 3 ) 3 Si—[O—(CH 3 ) 2 Si] 5 —O—Si(CH 3 ) 3 , (CH 3 ) 3 Si—[O—(CH 3 ) 2 Si] 6 —O—Si(
  • Silicones which are preferably usable according to the invention exhibit viscosities at 20° C. of 0.2 to 2 mm 2 s ⁇ 1 , wherein silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mm 2 s ⁇ 1 are more preferred.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the silicones used individually or in combination are selected from the following structures
  • More preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more organo-modified silicones since the applicational properties of the silicones may be adapted still more closely to the intended application by the modification.
  • Cosmetic compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the organo-modified silicones are selected from polyorganosiloxanes which contain a) polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, b) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups, c) thiol groups, d) alkoxylated groups, e) hydroxyalkyl groups, f) acyloxyalkyl groups, g) carboxyalkyl groups, h) 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate groups, i) 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfonate groups, j) hydroxyacylamino groups. More preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may, for example, be described by the formula
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon residue with 1 to approx. 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar residue of general formula —R 1 HZ, in which R 1 is a divalent linking group, which is attached to hydrogen and the residue Z, and is composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional residue which contains at least one amino-functional group
  • x is a number in the range from 1 to approx. 2,000, preferably from approx. 3 to approx. 50 and most preferably from approx. 3 to approx.
  • y is a number in the range from approx. 20 to approx. 10,000, preferably from approx. 125 to approx. 10,000 and most preferably from approx. 150 to approx. 1,000
  • M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.
  • Non-limiting examples of the residues represented by R include alkyl residues, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl residues, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl residues, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl residues, benzyl residues, halogenated hydrocarbon residues, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like and sulfur-containing residues, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, —CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 —, phenylene, naphthylene, —CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 —, —CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 —, —OCH 2 CH 2 —, —OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 —, —CH 2 CH(CH 3 )C(O)OCH 2 —, —(CH 2 ) 3 CC(O)OCH 2 CH 2 —, —C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 —, —C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 —; and —(CH 2 ) 3 C(O)SCH 2 CH 2 —.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional residue containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for Z is NH(CH 2 ) z NH 2 , in which z is 1 or more.
  • Another possible formula for Z is —NH(CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zz NH, in which both z and zz are mutually independently 1 or more, wherein this structure comprises diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
  • Z is most preferably an —NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 residue.
  • Z is —N(CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zz NX 2 or —NX 2 , in which each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
  • Q is most preferably a polar amino-functional residue of formula —CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • “a” assumes values in the range from approx. 0 to approx. 2
  • “b” assumes values in the range from approx. 2 to approx. 3
  • “a”+“b” is less than or equal to 3
  • “c” is a number in the range from approx. 1 to approx. 3.
  • the molar ratio of the R a QbSiO (4-a-b)/2 units to the R c SiO (4-c)/2 units is in the range from approx. 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from approx. 1:5 to approx. 1:65 and most preferably from approx. 1:15 to approx. 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different in the various silicone components which are present in the silicone mixture.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of formula (Si-II)
  • G is —H, a phenyl group, —OH, —O—CH 3 , —CH 3 , —O—CH 2 CH 3 , —CH 2 CH 3 , —O—CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , —CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , —O—CH(CH 3 ) 2 , —CH(CH 3 ) 2 , —O—CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , —O—CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 , —CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 , —O—CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 , —CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 , —CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 , —O—C(CH 3 ) 3 , —C(CH 3 ) 3 ;
  • a denotes a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
  • b denotes a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
  • n and n are numbers, the sum of which (m+n) amounts to between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
  • R′ is a monovalent residue selected from
  • More preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of formula (Si-IIa)
  • n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • n1 and n2 are numbers the sum of which (m+n1+n2) amounts to between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein the sum (n1+n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • preferred agents according to the invention are those which contain an amino-functional silicone, the amine value of which is above 0.25 meq/g, preferably above 0.3 meq/g and in particular above 0.4 meq/g.
  • the amine value here denotes the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and may also be stated in the unit mg of KOH/g.
  • Agents which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, relative to the weight thereof, they contain 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt. %, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt. % and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt. % of amino-functional silicone(s).
  • cyclic dimethicones designated according to INCI as Cyclomethicones may preferably be used according to the invention.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are here those which contain at least one silicone of formula Si-III
  • x denotes a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, further preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.
  • Cyclic silicones with 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5 Si-atoms are for example octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, obtainable as “Volatile Silicone 7207” (Union Carbide) or “Silbione 70045 V 2” (Rhodia Chimie), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, obtainable as “Volatile Silicone 7158” (Union Carbide) and “Silbione 70045 V 5” (Rhodia Chimie) and mixtures thereof.
  • Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type are for example “Volatile Silicone FZ 3109” (Union Carbide), with the structure:
  • mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicone compounds such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1′-bis(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane.
  • silicones have a backbone which is made up of —Si—O—Si units. These Si—O—Si units may, of course, also be interrupted by carbon chains Corresponding molecules are obtainable by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions.
  • Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of formula S1—IV
  • R denotes identical or different residues from the group —H, phenyl, benzyl, —CH 2 —CH(CH 3 )Ph, C 1-20 alkyl residues, preferably —CH 3 , —CH 2 CH 3 , —CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , —CH(CH 3 ) 2 , —CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , —CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 , —CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 , —C(CH 3 ) 3 , x and y denote a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, further preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n denotes a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.
  • the silicones are preferably water-soluble.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one water-soluble silicone.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that the silicones are selected from polyalkylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups, polyalkylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mixtures of two PDMS which are formed from a gum and an oil of different viscosities, mixtures of organosiloxanes and cyclic silicones and organopolysiloxane resins.
  • the silicones are selected from polyalkylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups, polyalkylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mixtures of two PDMS which are formed from a gum and an oil of different viscosities, mixtures of organosiloxanes and cyclic silicones and organopolysiloxane resins.
  • oils of the 200 series such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 cSt (mm 2 /s)
  • oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18, SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265) from General Electric
  • dimethiconols such as oils of the 48 series (Rhodia Chimie)
  • silicones of the PK series such as for example PK20
  • silicones of the PN and PH series such as for example PN1000 and PH1000
  • Silicone Copolymer F-755 SWS Silicones
  • Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 Goldschmidt
  • Water-soluble conditioning agents preferably from the groups of anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins and protein hydrolysates, cationic surfactants and mixtures of these substances may also be used as conditioning agents.
  • anionic polymers which can support the action of the active ingredient according to the invention are anionic polymers which comprise carboxylate and/or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers of which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be present wholly or in part as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid are preferred monomers.
  • Anionic polymers which have proven very particularly effective are those which contain as sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group may be present wholly or in part as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid is more preferred, and is commercially obtainable for example under the name Rheothik® 11-80.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionogenic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionogenic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the above-listed substances.
  • Preferred nonionogenic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol % acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol % 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is present wholly or in part as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • This copolymer may also be present in crosslinked form, wherein polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allyl pentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are preferably used as the crosslinking agents.
  • polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allyl pentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are preferably used as the crosslinking agents.
  • polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allyl pentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are preferably used as the crosslinking agents.
  • Such a polymer is present in the commercial product Sepigel®305 from SEPPIC.
  • Use of this compound which contains in addition to the polymer component a hydrocarbon mixture (C 13 -C 14 isoparaffin) and
  • the sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers distributed under the name Simulgel® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 have also proven particularly effective according to the invention.
  • Anionic homopolymers which are likewise preferred are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids.
  • allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, of sucrose and of propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents.
  • Such compounds are commercially obtainable for example under the trademark Carbopol®.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, in particular those comprising crosslinks, are also color-preserving polymers.
  • a maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene is commercially obtainable under the name Stabileze® QM.
  • the anionic polymer is selected from:
  • the anionic polymer is selected from:
  • Amphoteric polymers may furthermore be used as a polymer component for increasing the action of the active substance combination according to the invention.
  • amphoteric polymers includes not only those polymers which contain in each molecule both free amino groups and free —COOH or —SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, but also zwitterionic polymers, which contain in each molecule quaternary ammonium groups and —COO ⁇ or —SO 3 ⁇ groups, and those polymers which contain —COOH or —SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphoteric polymer usable according to the invention is the acrylic resin obtainable under the name Amphomer®, which is a copolymer of tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the simple esters thereof.
  • Amphomer® is a copolymer of tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the simple esters thereof.
  • Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which are substantially composed of
  • These compounds may be used according to the invention both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide.
  • Particularly preferred polymers are those in which monomers of type (a) are used, in which R 24 , R 25 and R 26 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ( ⁇ ) is a halide, or ethoxysulfate ion; acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a more preferred monomer (a).
  • Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.
  • amphoteric polymer is selected from the polymers which comprise units derived from:
  • the agents according to the invention may furthermore contain nonionogenic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionogenic polymers are for example:
  • vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl ester copolymers as are distributed for example under the tradename Luviskol® (BASF).
  • Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73 in each case vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, are likewise preferred nonionic polymers.
  • polyvinylpyrrolidones as are distributed for example under the tradename Luviskol® (BASF).
  • siloxanes These siloxanes may be either water-soluble or water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, wherein non-volatile siloxanes are taken to be those compounds whose boiling point at standard pressure is above 200° C.
  • Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as for example polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as for example polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes, which contain amine and/or hydroxy groups.
  • the nonionic polymer is selected from:
  • Cationic polymers should be taken to mean polymers which comprise groups in the main and/or side chain which may be “temporarily” or “permanently” cationic.
  • Polymers which are designated “permanently cationic” according to the invention are those which, irrespective of the pH value of the agent, comprise a cationic group. As a rule, these are polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • Polymers which have proven particularly suitable are in particular those in which the quaternary ammonium group is attached via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a main polymer chain synthesized from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or the derivatives thereof.
  • R 18 is —H or —CH 3
  • those which are preferred according to the invention are those for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
  • R 18 denotes a methyl group
  • R 19 , R 20 and R 21 denote methyl groups
  • m has the value 2.
  • Physiologically acceptable counterions X ⁇ which may, for example, be considered are halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions.
  • halide ions in particular chloride, are preferred.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is poly(methacryloyloxyethyl-trimethylammonium chloride), which may if desired be crosslinked, with the INCI name of Polyquaternium-37.
  • Crosslinking may if desired proceed with the assistance of olefinically polyunsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should have a polymer fraction of no less than 30 wt. %.
  • a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should have a polymer fraction of no less than 30 wt. %.
  • Such polymer dispersions are commercially available under the names Salcare® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer fraction, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) and Salcare® SC 96 (approx.
  • Copolymers with monomer units according to formula (III) preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C 1-4 alkyl esters and methacrylic acid C 1-4 alkyl esters as nonionogenic monomer units. Acrylamide is more preferred among these nonionogenic monomers.
  • These copolymers, as described above for the homopolymers, may also be crosslinked.
  • a copolymer which is preferred according to the invention is crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Such copolymers, in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of approx. 20:80, are commercially available as approx. 50% nonaqueous polymer dispersions under the name Salcare® SC 92.
  • the polymers known under the names Polyquatemium-24 may also be used as cationic polymers.
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone as are available as commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix® VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat®ASCP 1011, Gafquat®HS 110, Luviquat® 8155 and Luviquat® MS 370 may likewise be used according to the invention.
  • Further cationic polymers according to the invention are “temporarily cationic” polymers.
  • Chitosan and the derivatives thereof as are readily commercially available for example under the trade names Hydagen® CMF, Hydagen® HCMF, Kytamer® PC and Chitolam® NB/101, are for example preferred.
  • Chitosans are deacetylated chitins which are commercially available in various degrees of deacetylation and various degrees of degradation (molecular weights).
  • the chitosan can be converted into the salt form. This may proceed by dissolution in dilute aqueous acids.
  • Suitable acids are both mineral acids such as for example hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid and organic acids, for example low molecular weight carboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • Relatively high molecular weight alkylsulfonic acids or alkylsulfuric acids or organophosphoric acids may furthermore be used, provided that they have the necessary physiological acceptability.
  • Suitable acids for converting the chitosan into the salt farm are for example acetic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid.
  • Low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids such as for example glycolic acid or lactic acid are preferably used.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the cationic amphiphilic polymers are selected from quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates with aminated side chains.
  • compositions are characterized in that the cationic polymers are selected from those polymers which have units with primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amino groups, which units are either part of the polymer main chain or are on lateral substituents attached directly thereto.
  • compositions are characterized in that the cationic polymer is selected from cationic cyclopolymers, cationic polysaccharides, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions are characterized in that the cyclopolymer is selected from homopolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide.
  • compositions are characterized in that the cationic polysaccharides are selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses which have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • compositions are characterized in that the cationic polysaccharides are selected from guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt.
  • the preparations used to contain a plurality of, in particular two different, identically charged polymers and/or in each case one ionic and one amphoteric and/or nonionic polymer.
  • polymer should be taken according to the invention likewise to mean specific preparations of polymers such as spherical polymer powders.
  • Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from various monomers, for example by special polymerization methods or by dissolving the polymers in a solvent and spraying into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Such a method is known, for example, from EP 466 986 B1.
  • Suitable polymers are for example polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides.
  • Particularly suitable such spherical polymer powders are those having a primary particle diameter of less than 1 vim.
  • Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example, commercially available under the trademark Polytrap®Q5-6603 (Dow Corning).
  • Other polymer powders for example based on polyamides (Nylon 6, Nylon 12), are obtainable with a particle size of 2-10 ⁇ m (90%) and a specific surface area of approx. 10 m 2 /g under the trade name Orgasol® 2002 DU Nat Cos(Atochem S.A., Paris).
  • spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, polyethylene and polypropylene powders (ACCUREL EP 400) from AKZO or also silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or also spherical cellulose powders.
  • the polymers are present in the agents according to the invention preferably in quantities of from 0.01 to 10 wt. %, relative to the total agent. Quantities of 0.1 to 5, in particular of 0.1 to 3 wt. %, are more preferred.
  • preferred cosmetic compositions are those which contain the conditioning agent(s) in a total quantity of 0.001 to 20 wt. %, preferably of 0.01 to 15 wt. %, further preferably of 0.1 to 10 wt. % and in particular of 0.25 to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the agents according to the invention contain further essential ingredients.
  • Cleaning or conditioning compositions such as for example shampoos or conditioners contain at least one surfactant, wherein, depending on the area of application, surface-active substances are known as surfactants or as emulsifiers and are selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.
  • Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, relative to the weight thereof, they contain 0.5 to 70 wt %, preferably 1 to 60 wt % and in particular 5 to 25 wt. % of anionic and/or nonionic and/or cationic and/or amphoteric surfactant(s).
  • Anionic surfactants and emulsifiers which are suitable in compositions according to the invention are any anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by an anionic water-solubilizing group such as for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having approx. 8 to 30 C atoms.
  • the molecule may additionally contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups.
  • anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are, in each case in the form of sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acyl glutamates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, in each case with a linear or branched acyl residue with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, which residue is selected in more preferred embodiments from an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl residue, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid or of the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular the products with the INCI names Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate and Disodium Coco-Glucoside Sulfosuccinate, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethoxy groups per
  • zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are “betaines” such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines with in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate.
  • One preferred zwitterionic surfactant is
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups per molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • More preferred anionic surfactants are the alkali metal or ammonium salts of lauryl ether sulfate with a degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4 EO.
  • More preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that, relative to the weight thereof, they contain 0.1 to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.25 to 17.5 wt. % and in particular 5 to 15 wt. % of anionic surfactant(s), more preferably fatty alcohol ether sulfates of formula
  • n denotes values of 5 to 21, preferably of 7 to 19, more preferably of 9 to 17 and in particular of 11 to 13 and k denotes values of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, preferably 1, 2 or 3 and in particular 2, and M denotes a cation from the group Na + , K + , NH 4 + , 1 ⁇ 2Mg 2+ , 1 ⁇ 2Zn 2+ , preferably Na + .
  • zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are “betaines” such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example co coalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines with in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate.
  • One preferred zwitterionic surfactant is
  • Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are taken to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 -C 24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarco sines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids with in each case approx. 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 12-18 acyl sarcosine.
  • More preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain amphoteric surfactant(s) from the groups of N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids having in each case approx. 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group, alkylaminoacetic acids having in each case approx.
  • amphoteric surfactant(s) from the groups of N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alky
  • N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate C12-C 1-8 acyl sarcosine
  • N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates for example cocoalkyldimethyl-ammonium glycinate
  • N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates for example cocoalkylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate
  • 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine the compounds known by the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodiacetates, wherein preferred agents contain the ampho
  • More preferred cosmetic agents contain betaines of formula (Bet-I)
  • R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue with 8 to 24 carbon atoms as amphoteric surfactants.
  • these surfactants are designated Amidopropylbetaines, wherein those representatives which are derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are designated Cocamidopropylbetaines.
  • Surfactants of formula (Bet-I) which are a mixture of the following representatives are more preferably used according to the invention: H 3 C—(CH 2 ) 7 —C(O)—NH—(CH 2 ) 3 N + (CH 3 ) 2 CH 2 COO, H 3 C—(CH 2 ) 9 —C (O)—NH—(CH 2 ) 3 N + (CH 3 ) 2 CH 2 COO ⁇ , H 3 C—(CH 2 ) 11 —C(O)—NH—(CH 2 ) 3 N + (CH 3 ) 2 CH 2 COO ⁇ , H 3 C—(CH 2 ) 13 —C(O)—NH—(CH 2 ) 3 N + (CH 3 ) 2 CH 2 COO ⁇ , H 3 C—(CH 2 ) 15
  • Surfactants of formula (Bet-I) are more preferably used within relatively narrow quantity ranges.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are here those which, relative to the weight thereof, contain 0.25 to 8 wt. %, further preferably 0.5 to 7 wt. %, further preferably 0.75 to 6.5 wt. % and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt. % of surfactant(s) of formula (Bet-I).
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention may particularly preferentially contain betaines of formula (Bet-II)
  • R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkylene residue with 8 to 24 carbon atoms as amphoteric surfactants.
  • these surfactants are designated Amphoacetates, wherein those representatives which are derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are designated Cocoamphoacetates.
  • surfactants of this type always also contain betaines of formula (Bet-IIa)
  • R denotes a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and M denotes a cation.
  • these surfactants are designated Amphodiacetates, wherein those representatives which are derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are designated Cocoamphodiacetates.
  • Surfactants of formula (Bet-II) which are more preferably used according to the invention are those which are a mixture of the following representatives:
  • Surfactants of formula (Bet-II) are more preferably used within relatively narrow quantity ranges.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are here those which, relative to the weight thereof, contain 0.25 to 8 wt. %, further preferably 0.5 to 7 wt. %, further preferably 0.75 to 6.5 wt. % and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt. % of surfactant(s) of formula (Bet-II).
  • preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are those in which the residue R in the formulae (Bet-I) and (Bet-II) is selected from H 3 C—(CH 2 ) 7 —, H 3 C—(CH 2 ) 9 —, H 3 C—(CH 2 ) 11 —, H 3 C—(CH 2 ) 13 —, H 3 C—(CH 2 ) 15 —, H 3 C—(CH 2 ) 7 —CH ⁇ CH—(CH 2 ) 7 —, or mixtures of these.
  • nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are therefore those which, relative to the weight thereof, contain as nonionic surfactants 0.1 to 20 wt. % of alkyl polyglycosides of general formula RO—(Z) x , wherein R denotes alkyl, Z denotes sugar and x denotes the number of sugar units.
  • Alkyl polyglycosides are nonionic surfactants which are entirely produced from renewable raw materials (sugar building blocks, predominantly glucose, for example from corn starch, and fatty alcohol, for example from coconut oil). Alkyl polyglycosides are obtainable by an acidically catalyzed reaction (Fischer reaction) of sugars, in particular glucose (or starch) or of butyl glycosides with fatty alcohols.
  • alkyl monoglucoside alkyl ⁇ -D- and ⁇ -D-glucopyranoside and small proportions of glucofuranoside
  • alkyl diglucosides alkyl isomaltosides, alkyl maltosides etc.
  • alkyl oligoglucosides alkyl maltotriosides, alkyl tetraosides etc.
  • Alkyl polyglycosides which are preferred according to the invention are those which correspond to general formula RO—(Z) x , wherein R denotes alkyl, Z denotes sugar and x denotes the number of sugar units. More preferred such alkyl polyglycosides are those in which R
  • Any desired mono- or oligosaccharides may be used as the sugar building block Z.
  • Sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are conventionally used.
  • Such sugars are for example glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; glucose is more preferred.
  • Alkyl polyglycosides usable according to the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8 are particularly preferred.
  • surfactants which, in particular mixed with alkyl polyglycosides, may more advantageously be used in the agents according to the invention are glutamates, aspartates and sulfoacetates.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are here those which, relative to the weight thereof, contain 0.1 to 20 wt. % of fatty acid glutamates (acyl glutamates) and/or fatty acid aspartates (acyl aspartates) and/or alkyl sulfoacetates (sulfoacetic acid alkyl esters).
  • acyl glutamates are anionic surfactants which are derived from fatty acids with 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as for example C 12/14 or C 12/18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and/or stearic acid.
  • Sodium N-cocoyl L-glutamate and sodium N-stearoyl L-glutamate are more preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain the alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglucosides and the acyl glutamates in a weight ratio of 1:99 to 99:1, preferably 10:90 to 90:10 and in particular 80:20 to 50:50.
  • acyl aspartates are anionic surfactants which are derived from fatty acids with 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as for example C 12/14 or C 12/18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and/or stearic acid.
  • Sodium N-cocoyl L-aspartate and sodium N-stearoyl L-aspartate are more preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain the alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglucosides and the acyl aspartates likewise in a weight ratio of 1:99 to 99:1, preferably 10:90 to 90:10 and in particular 80:20 to 50:50.
  • Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate is a white, free-flowing powder, which gives a neutral reaction and has good foaming capacity, wetting capacity and dispersing power.
  • Cationic surfactants of the type including quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and amidoamines may be used according to the invention.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides.
  • the long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, as for example in cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quatemium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • More preferred hair cleaning and conditioning agents according to the invention are characterized in that, relative to the weight thereof, they contain as cationic conditioning substance 0.05 to 7.5 wt. %, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt. %, more preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt. % and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt.
  • cationic surfactant(s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and/or esterquats and/or amidoamines, wherein preferred cationic surfactant(s) is/are selected from alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides with preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl residue and/or dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides with preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl residue and/or trialkylmethylammonium chlorides with preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl residue and/or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and/or stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and/or distearyldimethylammonium chloride and/or lauryldimethylammonium chloride and/or lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and/or tricetylmethylammonium chloride and/or Quatemium-27 and/or Quatemium-83 and/or N-methyl-N
  • conditioning effects of the agents according to the invention may be still further enhanced by using specific conditioning substances.
  • the latter are preferably selected from specific groups of per se known conditioning substances, since, with regard to formulation and conditioning effect, said conditioning substances go together outstandingly well with the silicones used according to the invention.
  • Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, relative to the weight thereof, they additionally contain conditioning substance(s) in quantities of 0.001 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.005 to 7.5 wt. %, more preferably 0.01 to 5 wt. % and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 wt. %, wherein preferred conditioning substance(s) are selected from the group L-carnitine, and/or the salts thereof; panthenol and/or pantothenic acid; 2-furanones and/or the derivatives thereof, in particular pantolactone; taurine and/or the salts thereof; niacinamide; ubiquinone; ectoine; allantoin.
  • conditioning substance(s) are selected from the group L-carnitine, and/or the salts thereof; panthenol and/or pantothenic acid; 2-furanones and/or the derivatives thereof, in particular pantolactone; taurine and/or the salts thereof; ni
  • the silicones are combined with at least one conditioning substance which is selected from L-camitine, and/or the salts thereof, panthenol and/or pantothenic acid, 2-furanones and/or the derivatives thereof, in particular pantolactone, taurine and/or the salts thereof, niacinamide, ubiquinones, ectoine, allantoin.
  • at least one conditioning substance which is selected from L-camitine, and/or the salts thereof, panthenol and/or pantothenic acid, 2-furanones and/or the derivatives thereof, in particular pantolactone, taurine and/or the salts thereof, niacinamide, ubiquinones, ectoine, allantoin.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one proteolipid of formula (P—I) as a further ingredient
  • proteolipids are preferably used within specific quantities in the agents according to the invention.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention contain, relative to the weight thereof, 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.02 to 5 wt. %, more preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt. %, further preferably 0.1 to 1 wt. % and in particular 0.15 to 0.5 wt. % of proteolipid(s).
  • residue R′′ in formula (P-I) denotes a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolysate.
  • R′′ is selected from the group keratin or keratin hydrolysate.
  • Preferred residues R′′ are oligopetides which have at least one Glu-Glu-Glu amino acid sequence, wherein the amino group may assume free or protonated form and the carboxy groups may assume free or deprotonated form.
  • Oligopeptides for the purposes of the present application are amino acid condensation products linked by acid amide type peptide bonds and which contain at least 3 and a maximum of 25 amino acids.
  • the molar mass of the proteolipid present in the agents according to the invention may vary depending on whether further amino acids are attached to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence and depending on the nature of these amino acids and as a function of the residues R′ and optionally R III and R IV selected.
  • Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the proteolipid has a molar mass of 1000 to 30000 Da, preferably of 1250 to 25000 Da, more preferably of 1500 to 20000 Da and in particular of 2000 to 15000 Da.
  • Oligopeptides which are preferably used as residue R′′ are those which do not solely consist of the three glutamic acids, but instead comprise further amino acids attached to this sequence. These further amino acids are preferably selected from specific amino acids, while certain other representatives are less preferred according to the invention.
  • residue R′′ of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention it is accordingly preferred for the residue R′′ of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention to contain no methionine. It is further preferred for the residue R′′ of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention to contain no cysteine and/or cystine.
  • residue R′′ of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention it is further preferred for the residue R′′ of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention to contain no aspartic acid and/or asparagine. It is further preferred for the residue R′′ of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention to contain no serine and/or threonine
  • residue R′′ of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention it is preferred for the residue R′′ of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention to contain tyrosine. It is further preferred for the residue R′′ of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention to contain leucine. It is further preferred for the residue R′′ of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention to contain isoleucine. It is further preferred for the residue R′′ of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention to contain arginine. It is further preferred for the residue R′′ of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention to contain valine.
  • Oligopeptides or amino acid sequences present in the preferred oligopeptides which are more preferred as residue R′′ are described below:
  • a more preferred oligopeptide additionally contains tyrosine which is preferably attached via the acid function thereof to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence.
  • Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide present as residue R′′ in the proteolipids of formula (I) comprises at least one Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu amino acid sequence, wherein the amino group may assume free or protonated folln and the carboxy groups may assume free or deprotonated form.
  • a further more preferred oligopeptide additionally contains isoleucine which is preferably attached via the acid function thereof to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence
  • Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide present as residue R′′ in the proteolipids of formula (I) comprises at least one Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile amino acid sequence, wherein the amino group may assume free or protonated form and the carboxy groups may assume free or deprotonated form.
  • Oligopeptides which comprise both of the above-stated amino acids (tyrosine and isoleucine) are preferred according to the invention. More preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are here those in which the oligopeptide present as residue R′′ in the proteolipids of formula (I) comprises at least one Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile amino acid sequence, wherein the amino group may assume free or protonated form and the carboxy groups may assume free or deprotonated form.
  • oligopeptides additionally contain arginine, which is preferably attached to isoleucine.
  • Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide present as residue R′′ in the proteolipids of formula (I) comprises at least one Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg amino acid sequence, wherein the amino groups may assume free or protonated form and the carboxy groups may assume free or deprotonated form.
  • Still more preferred oligopeptides additionally contain valine, which is preferably attached to arginine.
  • Cosmetic agents which are further preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide present as residue R′′ in the proteolipids of formula (I) comprises at least one Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val amino acid sequence, wherein the amino groups may assume free or protonated form and the carboxy groups may assume free or deprotonated form.
  • Still more preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably attached to valine.
  • Cosmetic agents which are further preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide present as residue R′′ in the proteolipids of formula (I) comprises at least one Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu amino acid sequence, wherein the amino groups may assume free or protonated form and the carboxy groups may assume free or deprotonated form.
  • More preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably attached to tyrosine.
  • Cosmetic agents which are further preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide present as residue R′′ in the proteolipids of formula (I) comprises at least one Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu amino acid sequence, wherein the amino groups may assume free or protonated form and the carboxy groups may assume free or deprotonated form.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention which are preferred are those which contain at least one proteolipid of formula (I), in which R′′ comprises at least one Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu amino acid sequence, wherein the amino groups may assume free or protonated form and the carboxy groups may assume free or deprotonated form.
  • R′′ comprises at least one Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu amino acid sequence, wherein the amino groups may assume free or protonated form and the carboxy groups may assume free or deprotonated form.
  • R′′ is selected from the group keratin or keratin hydrolysate if X ⁇ —C(O)O—.
  • residue R′′ in formula (P-I) may denote a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolysate, wherein protein hydrolysates are preferred.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which are obtained by acidically, basically or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins. Protein hydrolysates of both plant and animal origin may be used according to the invention.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are for example elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates which may also assume salt form.
  • Such products are distributed for example under the tradenames Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin for example soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are obtainable, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda).
  • the residue R′′ is selected from keratin or keratin hydrolysates irrespective of the X selected in formula (P-I).
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipid of formula (P-I), in which R′′ denotes keratin or a keratin hydrolysate.
  • More preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are further characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipid of formula (I), in which X denotes —N + (CH 3 ) 2 —CH 2 —CH(OH)—CH 2 — and R′ denotes —(CH 2 ) 17 —CH 3 .
  • Cosmetic agents according to the invention which are likewise further preferred are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipid of formula (P—I), in which X denotes —C(O)—O— and R′ denotes —(CH 2 ) 17 —CH 3 .
  • preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are those which, relative to the weight thereof, additionally contain 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.05 to 7 wt. %, more preferably 0.1 to 5 wt. %, further preferably 0.25 to 2.5 wt. % and in particular 0.5 to 2.0 wt. % of protein hydrolysate(s), preferably keratin hydrolysate(s).
  • Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they are transparent or translucent.
  • transparent or translucent is taken to mean a composition which has an NTU value of below 100.
  • the NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Unit) value is a unit used in water treatment for measuring turbidity in liquids. It is the unit which indicates the turbidity of a liquid measured with a calibrated nephelometer.
  • an agent according to the invention may furthermore also contain UV filters (I).
  • UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to structure and physical properties. Rather, any UV filters usable in the field of cosmetics whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), the UVB (280-315 um) or the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approx. 280 to approx. 300 mu, are more preferred.
  • the UV filters are conventionally present in the agents according to the invention in quantities of 0.1-5 wt. % relative to the total agent. Quantities of 0.4-2.5 wt. % are preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F).
  • Emulsifiers bring about the formation of water- or oil-resistant adsorption layers at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets from coalescence and so stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers like surfactants, are thus made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic molecular moiety.
  • Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O/W emulsions while hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W/O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is taken to mean a droplet distribution (dispersion) of one liquid in another liquid with the input of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers are:
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in quantities of 0.1-25 wt. %, in particular of 0.5-15 wt. %, relative to the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionogenic emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 to 18.
  • Nonionogenic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 may be more preferred according to the invention.
  • the anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which comprise carboxylate and/or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers of which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be present wholly or in part as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid are preferred monomers.
  • Anionic polymers which have proven very particularly effective are those which contain as sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group may be present wholly or in part as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid is more preferred, and is commercially obtainable for example under the name Rheothik® 11-80.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionogenic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionogenic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the above-listed substances.
  • Preferred nonionogenic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol % acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol % 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is present wholly or in part as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • This copolymer may also be present in crosslinked form, wherein polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allyl pentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are preferably used as the crosslinking agents.
  • polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allyl pentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are preferably used as the crosslinking agents.
  • polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allyl pentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are preferably used as the crosslinking agents.
  • Such a polymer is present in the commercial product Sepigel® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • Use of this compound which contains in addition to the polymer component a hydrocarbon mixture (C 13 -C 14 isoparaffin) and
  • the sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers distributed under the name Simulgel® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 have also proven particularly effective according to the invention.
  • Anionic homopolymers which are likewise preferred are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids.
  • allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, of sucrose and of propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents.
  • Such compounds are commercially obtainable for example under the trademark Carbopol®.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, in particular those comprising crosslinks, are also color-preserving polymers.
  • a maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene is commercially obtainable under the name Stabileze® QM.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers (G4).
  • Suitable nonionogenic polymers are for example:
  • the preparations prefferably contain a plurality of, in particular two different, identically charged polymers and/or in each case one ionic and one amphoteric and/or nonionic polymer.
  • the further polymers (G) are present in the agents according to the invention preferably in quantities of from 0.05 to 10 wt. %, relative to the total agent. Quantities of 0.1 to 5, in particular of 0.1 to 3 wt. %, are more preferred.
  • the present invention also provides a method for treating keratinic fibers, in which a hair treatment agent according to the invention is applied onto the keratinic fibers and, after a period of exposure of a few seconds up to 45 minutes, rinsed back out.
  • the present invention also provides the use of hair treatment agents according to the invention

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
US14/521,638 2012-04-26 2014-10-23 Hair preparations comprising hydroxy-terminated organopolysiloxane(s) and conditioner(s) Abandoned US20150044155A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102012206949A DE102012206949A1 (de) 2012-04-26 2012-04-26 Haarbehandlungsmittel mit hydroxy-terminierten Organopolysiloxan(en) und Konditioniermittel(n)
DE102012206949.6 2012-04-26
PCT/EP2013/053822 WO2013159955A2 (de) 2012-04-26 2013-02-26 Haarbehandlungsmittel mit hydroxy-terminierten organopolysiloxan(en) und konditioniermittel(n)

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DE102013225844A1 (de) * 2013-12-13 2015-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetische Zusammensetzung enthaltend eine Kombination aus Oligopeptiden und Ceramiden

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US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US11491092B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-11-08 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US11801211B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2023-10-31 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
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US12285508B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2025-04-29 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof

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JP2015514787A (ja) 2015-05-21
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WO2013159955A3 (de) 2014-11-13
DE102012206949A1 (de) 2013-10-31

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