Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/86—Polyethers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
  • A61K2800/548—Associative polymers

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more volatile linear alkanes and one or more nonionic associative polymers, for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
• the described composition also makes up a part of the invention.
• compositions in aqueous emulsion form of oil-in-water type which are in the form of more or less gelled creams
• the addition of volatile solvents may also make it possible to dissolve silicone gums, which are otherwise difficult to introduce into compositions on account of their intrinsic viscosity.
• volatile solvents in particular liquid fatty esters, hydrocarbon-based oils such as isododecanc or isohexadecane, and silicone oils such as cyclomethicone, may especially give rise to problems in terms of a greasy feel, lack of sheen and stiff, hard hair.
• one subject of the invention is the use for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair, of a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more volatile linear alkanes and one or more nonionic associative polymers.
• the composition also makes up a part of the invention.
• composition used according to the invention contains one or more volatile linear alkane(s).
• the term “one or more volatile linear alkane(s)” means, without preference, “one or more volatile linear alkane oil(s)”.
• a volatile linear alkane that is suitable for use in the invention is liquid at room temperature (about 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• volatile linear alkane that is suitable for use in the invention means a cosmetic linear alkane that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 325 Pa), which is liquid at room temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the evaporation rate of a volatile alkane in accordance with the invention may especially be evaluated by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013 413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below.
• the liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing the volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish.
• a fan Paperst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm
• the mass of volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular time intervals.
• the evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amount of product evaporated (in mg/cm 2 ) as a function of the time (in minutes).
• the evaporation rate is then calculated, which corresponds to the tangent to the origin of the curve obtained.
• the evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit surface area (cm 2 ) and per unit of time (minutes).
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention have a non-zero vapour pressure (also known as the saturating vapour pressure), at room temperature, in particular a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 Pa to 6000 Pa.
• a non-zero vapour pressure also known as the saturating vapour pressure
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa, at room temperature (25° C.).
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa, at room temperature (25° C.).
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa, at room temperature (25° C.).
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa, at room temperature (25° C.).
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa, at room temperature (25° C.).
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention may have a flash point that is within the range from 30 to 120° C. and more particularly from 40 to 100° C.
• the flash point is in particular measured according to standard ISO 3679.
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention may be linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms.
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention may be linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention may be linear alkanes comprising from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention may be linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention may be linear alkanes comprising from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.
• the volatile linear alkane(s) that are suitable for use in the invention may advantageously be of plant origin.
• the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one 14 C (carbon-14) carbon isotope.
• the 14 C isotope may be present in a 14 C/ 12 C ratio of greater than or equal to 1 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 16 , preferably greater than or equal to 1 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 15 , more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 14 and better still greater than or equal to 1.5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 13 .
• the ratio 14 C/ 12 C ranges from 6 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 13 to 1.2 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 12 (numerical isotope ratio).
• the amount of 14 C isotopes in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes may be determined via methods known to those skilled in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or accelerator mass spectrometry.
• Such an alkane may be obtained, directly or in several steps, from a plant raw material, such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.
• volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155 059 of the company Cognis (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.
• volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C 7 ), n-octane (C 8 ), n-nonane (C 9 ), n-decane (C 10 ), n-undecane (C 11 ), n-dodecane (C 12 ), n-tridecane (C 13 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), and mixtures thereof.
• the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.
• n-dodecane C 12
• n-tetradecane C 14
• Sasol n-dodecane sold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.
• the volatile linear alkane may also be used alone.
• a mixture of two different volatile linear alkanes differing from each other by a carbon number n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2, may be used.
• a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1 is used.
• Examples that may especially be mentioned include mixtures of C 10 /C 11 , C 11 /C 12 or C 12 /C 13 volatile linear alkanes.
• a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2 is used.
• Examples that may especially be mentioned include mixtures of C 10 /C 12 or C 12 /C 14 volatile linear alkanes, for an even carbon number n, and the C 11 /C 13 mixture for an odd carbon number n.
• a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of C 11 /C 13 volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of C 12 /C 14 volatile linear alkanes, is used.
• mixtures combining more than two volatile linear alkanes according to the invention for instance a mixture of at least three different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, also form part of the invention, but mixtures of two volatile linear alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), the two volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture.
• the volatile linear alkane having the smaller carbon number is predominant in the mixture.
• a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in which the volatile linear alkane having the larger carbon number is predominant in the mixture is used.
• mixture of volatile linear alkanes according to the invention may also contain:
• a volatile linear alkane that is suitable for use in the invention may be used in the form of an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture.
• the mixture of alkanes is an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture.
• such a mixture may be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155 059.
• the n-dodecane sold under the reference Parafol 12-97 by Sasol is used.
• the n-tetradecane sold under the reference Parafol 14-97 by Sasol is used.
• n-dodecane and n-tetradecane are used. It is in particular possible to use the dodecane/tetradecane mixture in an 85/15 weight ratio sold by the company Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight 1214.
• composition used according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 90% by weight, in particular from 1% to 50% by weight, more particularly from 1.5% to 40% by weight and better still from 2% to 30% by weight of one or more volatile linear alkanes relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the volatile linear alkane(s) form, alone or with one or more other compounds listed below, the liquid fatty phase of the composition.
• composition used according to the invention comprises, besides the volatile linear alkane(s), one or more nonionic associative polymers.
• the term “polymer” means any compound derived from the polymerization by polycondensation or radical polymerization of monomers, at least one of which is other than an alkylene oxide, and of a monofunctional compound of formula RX, R denoting an optionally hydroxylated C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, and X denoting a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl or ester group. Any compound derived exclusively from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide or a fatty amine is in particular excluded.
• associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.
• hydrophobic group means a radical or polymer bearing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
• the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
• the nonionic associative polymers are preferably chosen from:
• the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains, or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.
• the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
• the polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. Hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example: multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
• the nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.
• the nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.
• nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers include those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
• nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205 containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM184, Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46, from the company Röhm & Haas [Aculyn 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture
• the product DW 1206B from Röhm & Haas containing a C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
• solutions or dispersions of these polymers especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium.
• examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox.
• the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Röhm & Haas may also be used.
• Polyurethane-39 sold under the reference Luvigel Star by the company BASF may also be used.
• polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen-Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389 (1993).
• the nonionic associative polymer(s) are preferably chosen from polyurethane polyethers.
• the nonionic associative polymer(s) are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition used according to the invention may also comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances.
• the non-silicone fatty substance(s) are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, waxes, and plant, animal, mineral and synthetic oils.
• the fatty alcohols may be chosen from alcohols of formula R′OH, in which R′ denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical, preferably comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. R′ preferably denotes a C 12 -C 24 alkyl or C 12 -C 24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
• the fatty alcohols may be chosen in particular from lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol.
• a mixture of fatty alcohols may also be used, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product. Mixtures of fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include cetylstearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
• the fatty acids may be chosen from the acids of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical preferably comprising from 7 to 39 carbon atoms.
• R is a C 7 -C 19 alkyl or C 7 -C 29 alkenyl group and better still a C 12 -C 24 alkyl or C 11 -C 24 alkenyl group.
• R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more carboxyl groups.
• the fatty acid of the ester may be chosen in particular from lauric acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid and stearic acid.
• the waxes are natural (animal or plant) or synthetic substances that are solid at room temperature (20°-25° C.). They are insoluble in water, soluble in oils and are capable of forming a water-repellent film.
• waxes For the definition of waxes, mention may be made, for example, of P.D. Dorgan, Drug and Cosmetic Industry, December 1983, pp. 30-33.
• the wax(es) that may be present in the composition used according to the invention may be chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom, animal waxes such as beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefins.
• Plant oils that may be mentioned include jojoba oil, avocado oil, rapeseed oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil and castor oil.
• the non-silicone fatty substance(s) generally represent from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition used according to the invention may also comprise one or more silicones.
• the silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i.e. dissolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emulsions.
• the polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
• Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
• the silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.
• the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly from:
• linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s at 25° C.
• An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.
• Non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used.
• silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25° C. and preferably 1 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 5 to 1 m 2 /s.
• the viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25° C. according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
• the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl methylphenyl siloxanes and polydimethyl diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 5 to 5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 2 m 2 /s at 25° C.
• the silicone gums that may be present in the composition used according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
• This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecanes, or mixtures thereof.
• the organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the composition used according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R 2 SiO 2/2 , R 3 SiO 1/2 , RSiO 3/2 and SiO 4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
• R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
• R denotes a C 1 -C 4 lower alkyl radical, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical.
• organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and containing in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based radical.
• organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
• polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the company Union Carbide, and the (C 12 )alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;
• thiol groups such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;
• alkoxylated groups such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;
• hydroxylated groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application FR-A-85/16334;
• acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,957,732;
• anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type such as, for example, in the products described in patent EP 186 507 from the company Chisso Corporation, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S201 and Abil S255;
• hydroxyacylamino groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.
• organomodified silicones mention may also be made of amino silicones.
• amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or one or more quaternary ammonium groups.
• amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
• T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (—OH) or C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical, and preferably methyl, or a C 1 -C 8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
• a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0,
• b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1,
• n and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10;
• R 1 is a monovalent radical of formula —C q H 2q L in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
• R 2 can denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical
• Q ⁇ represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
• amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (I) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula:
• R, R′ and R′′ which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, preferably CH 3 ; a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy; or OH;
• A represents a linear or branched, C 3 -C 8 and preferably C 3 -C 6 alkylene radical;
• m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
• R, R′ and R′′ which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyl radical
• A represents a C 3 alkylene radical
• m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately.
• Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as “amodimethicones”.
• R, R′ and R′′ which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R′′ is an alkoxy radical and A represents a C 3 alkylene radical.
• the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1.
• m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
• R and R′′ which are different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical
• at least one of the radicals R or R′′ is an alkoxy radical
• R′ represents a methyl radical
• A represents a C 3 alkylene radical.
• the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and is advantageously equal to 1/0.95.
• m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
• the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard; ⁇ styragem columns; eluent THF; flow rate 1 mm/m; 200 ⁇ l of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone are injected into THF and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).
• a product corresponding to the definition of formula (I) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone”, corresponding to formula (III) below:
• n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (I).
• R 3 represents a monovalent C 1 -C 18 hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl or C 2 -C 18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
• R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18 , and for example C 1 -C 8 , alkyleneoxy radical;
• Q ⁇ is a halide ion, especially chloride
• r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
• s represents an average statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
• a compound falling within this class is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
• R 7 which may be identical or different, represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical, a C 2 -C 18 alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
• R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18 , for example C 1 -C 8 , alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
• R 8 which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical, a C 2 -C 18 alkenyl radical or a radical —R 6 —NHCOR 7 ;
• X ⁇ is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
• r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
• x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq./g.
• the silicones that are particularly preferred are polydimethylsiloxanes, dimethicones and amodimethicones.
• one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their joint use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.
• Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylcetylammonium chloride and a nonionic surfactant of formula: C 13 H 27 —(OC 2 H 4 ) 12 —OH, known under the CTFA name Trideceth-12.
• Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (III) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: C 8 H 17 —C 6 H 4 —(OCH 2 CH 2 ) 40 —OH, known under the CTFA name octoxynol-40, a second nonionic surfactant of formula: C 12 H 25 —(OCH 2 —CH 2 ) 6 —OH, known under the CTFA name Isolaureth-6, and propylene glycol.
• Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning
• the silicone(s) generally represent 0.1% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also comprise one or more polymers other than the nonionic associative polymers described above.
• the polymer(s) other than the nonionic associative polymers described above may be of natural, plant, mineral and/or synthetic origin.
• the polymers of natural origin may be chosen from pectins, celluloses, alginates, galactoarabinan, gum tragacanth, starches and sucrose.
• the synthetically modified polymers of plant origin may be chosen, for example, from starch derivatives, such as carboxymethylstarch and distarch phosphate, and cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose.
• the polymers may be chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers.
• the cationic polymers are most particularly advantageous as agents for conditioning keratin fibres.
• cationic polymer means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that may be ionized into cationic groups.
• the cationic polymers that may be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a number average molecular weight of between 500 and about 5 000 000 and preferably between 1000 and 3 000 000.
• R 1 and R 2 which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
• R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a group CH 3 ;
• A is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
• R 4 , R 5 and R 6 which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group;
• X denotes a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
• the copolymers of the family (1) also contain one or more comonomer units that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C 1-4 ) alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
• cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer of quaternary ammonium such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
• the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
• cationic polygalactomannans such as those described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups.
• guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups Such products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15 and Jaguar C 17 by the company Rhodia.
• Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polya
• Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and the alkylene group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes an ethylene group.
• adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and the alkylene group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes an ethylene group.
• Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 583 363.
• adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers.
• the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1.
• Such polymers are described in particular in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
• Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (VIIa) or (VIIb):
• R 12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
• R 10 and R 11 independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, or a lower (C 1 -C 4 ) amidoalkyl group, or R 10 and R 11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidyl or morpholinyl
• Y ⁇ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
• R 10 and R 11 independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
• R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or alternatively R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group —CO—O—R 17 -E or —CO—NH—R 17 -E where R 17 is an alkylene and E is a quaternary ammonium group;
• a 1 and B 1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
• X ⁇ denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
• a 1 , R 13 and R 15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if A 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B 1 can also denote a group:
• a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
• Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternatively the divalent group —CH 2 —CH 2 —S—S—CH 2 —CH 1 —;
• X ⁇ is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
• R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X ⁇ is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
• R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or —CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH group, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
• r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
• q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34
• X ⁇ denotes an anion such as a halide
• A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents —CH 2 —CH 2 —O—CH 2 —CH 2 —.
• Chitosans or salts thereof; the salts that can be used are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate.
• chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies
• chitosan pyrrolidonecarboxylate sold under the name Kytamer®® PC by the company Amerchol.
• cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
• Polymer blends may also be used.
• the cationic polymers of families (1) and (7) are particularly preferred.
• composition used according to the invention may also comprise, as polymers, one or more modified or unmodified starches.
• the starch(es) that may be present in the composition used according to the invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers formed from elemental units that are anhydroglucose units.
• the number of these units and their assembly makes it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer).
• amylose and amylopectin branched polymer.
• the relative proportions of amylose and of amylopectin, and also their degree of polymerization, vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches.
• the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may originate from a botanical source such as cereals, tubers, roots, legumes and fruit.
• the starch(es) may originate from a botanical source chosen from corn, pea, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oat, sago, tapioca and sorghum.
• the starch is preferably derived from potato.
• Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used.
• the starches are generally in the form of a white powder, which is insoluble in cold water, whose elemental particle size ranges from 3 to 100 microns.
• starches that may be used in the composition used according to the invention may be chemically modified via one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, heat treatments.
• esterification in alkaline medium for the grafting of functional groups especially C1-C6 acyl (acetyl), C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxyalkyl (in particular carboxymethyl) or octenylsuccinic. Mention may be made in particular of starches modified with sodium carboxymethyl.
• Monostarch phosphates (of the type Am—O—PO—(OX)2), distarch phosphates (of the type Am—O—PO—(OX)—O—Am) or even tristarch phosphates (of the type Am—O—PO—(O—Am)2) or mixtures thereof, may especially be obtained by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds.
• X especially denotes alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline-earth metals (for example calcium or magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine or 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, and ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline.
• alkali metals for example sodium or potassium
• alkaline-earth metals for example calcium or magnesium
• ammonium salts amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine or 3-amino-1,2-propanediol
• ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline.
• the phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorous oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.
• distarch phosphates in particular hydroxypropyl distarch phosphates, or of compounds rich in distarch phosphate, especially hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized hydroxypropyl corn distarch phosphate).
• carboxyalkylstarches When the starches are chemically modified via an esterification reaction, carboxyalkylstarches may be obtained, as indicated previously.
• the carboxyalkylstarches are preferably carboxy(C 1 -C 4 )alkylstarches and more particularly carboxymethyl starches.
• the salts are especially salts of an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K 1/2, Li, NH 4 , of a quaternary ammonium or of an organic amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine.
• Carboxyalkylstarches are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups onto one or more alcohol functions of the starch, especially by reaction of starch and of sodium monochloroacetate in alkaline medium.
• the carboxyalkyl groups are generally attached via an ether function, more particularly to carbon 1.
• the degree of substitution preferably ranges from 0.1 to 1 and more particularly from 0.15 to 0.5.
• the degree of substitution is defined according to the present invention as being the average number of hydroxyl groups substituted with an ester or ether group (in the present case ether for the carboxymethylstarches) per monosaccharide unit of the polysaccharide.
• the carboxyalkylstarches preferably comprise units having the following formula:
• X denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K 1/2, L 1 , NH 4 , a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine.
• X denotes an Na + ion.
• the carboxyalkylstarches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably non-pregelatinized carboxyalkylstarches.
• carboxyalkylstarches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably partially or totally crosslinked carboxyalkylstarches.
• the carboxyalkylstarches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxyalkylstarches, in particular a sodium salt of potato carboxymethylstarch, sold especially under the name Primojel by the company DMV International. More than 95% of the particles of this starch have a diameter of less than 100 microns and more particularly less than 65 microns.
• amphoteric starches these amphoteric starches containing one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.
• the anionic and cationic groups may be attached to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably attached to the same reactive site.
• the anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably of carboxylic type.
• the cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
• amphoteric starches are especially chosen from the compounds having the following formulae:
• St-O represents a starch molecule
• R which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
• R′ which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a group —COOH,
• n is an integer equal to 2 or 3
• M which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K or L 1 , NH 4 , a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,
• R′′ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
• starches of formula (XI) or (XII) are particularly used.
• Starches modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid i.e. the starches of formula (XI) or (XII) in which R, R′, R′′ and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2, are more particularly used.
• starch(es) that may be used in the invention are chemically modified.
• the polymer(s) other than the nonionic associative polymers described previously generally represent from 0 to 20% and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition used according to the invention may also comprise one or more anionic, cationic, amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants.
• anionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of salts, in particular alkali metal salts, and especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylglyceryl sulfonates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, alkyl sulfoacetate
• anionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as salts of undecenylic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid and acylhydroxy acids such as acyl lactylates.
• fatty acid salts such as salts of undecenylic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid and acylhydroxy acids such as acyl lactylates.
• weakly anionic surfactants such as alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids and salts thereof, and also polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether alkylamido ether carboxylic acids or salts thereof the alkyl or acyl radical of these various compounds preferably comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and anionic derivatives of (C 8 -C 22 ) alkyl polyglycosides (sulfate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, isethionate, ether carboxylate, carbonate).
• amphoteric surfactants that may especially be mentioned are secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one hydrosolubilizing anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
• surfactants of amphoteric or zwitterionic type mention may also be made of sulfobetaines, alkyl amidoalkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines and imidazolium derivatives such as those of amphocarboxyglycinate or of amphocarboxypropionate.
• nonionic surfactants that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated derivatives of alcohols, of ⁇ -diols or of alkylphenols or of fatty acids, with a fatty chain comprising from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups especially ranging from 2 to 30.
• Cationic surfactants that may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list) include: primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives.
• Cationic surfactants that may also be used are quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (XV) below:
• R 22 is chosen from C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
• R 23 is chosen from:
• R 25 is chosen from:
• R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based radicals;
• r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
• y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
• x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;
• X ⁇ is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion
• the alkyl radicals R 22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
• R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
• the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10.
• R 23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 27 , it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
• R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 29 , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
• R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based radicals and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
• x and z which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1.
• y is equal to 1.
• r, s and t which may be identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
• the anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate.
• halide chloride, bromide or iodide
• alkyl sulfate more particularly methyl sulfate.
• methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function may be used.
• the anion X ⁇ is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.
• ammonium salts of formula (XV) the compounds that are more particularly used are those in which:
• hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
• Examples that may be mentioned include the compounds of formula (XV) such as the salts (especially chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof.
• the acyl radicals preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different. Mention may be made in particular of distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate.
• alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, or glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.
• alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, or glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.
• composition used according to the invention may contain a mixture of mono-, di- and triester salts of quaternary ammonium with a weight majority of diester salts.
• mixtures of ammonium salts that may be used include the mixture containing 15% to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, 45% to 60% diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate and 15% to 30% triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, the acyl radicals containing from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and being derived from optionally partially hydrogenated palm oil.
• Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function may also be used.
• surfactants that are suitable for producing the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of Rewopol SB F 12 P, the active agent of which is sodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, Texapon Z 95 P, the active agent of which is sodium lauryl sulfate, Genamin KDMP, the active agent of which is behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, Dehyquart F 75, the active agent of which is dicetearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammoniurn methosulfate, and Tween 21, the active agent of which is sorbitan monolaurate containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide.
• the surfactant(s) When they are present, the surfactant(s) generally represent from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition used according to the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.
• This medium is preferably aqueous, i.e. it comprises either water alone, or water and one or more solvents, for instance ethanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isopropanol, glycol ethers such as monopropylene, dipropylene or tripropylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl ethers, monoethylene, diethylene or triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
• solvents for instance ethanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isopropanol, glycol ethers such as monopropylene, dipropylene or tripropylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl ethers, monoethylene, diethylene or triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
• the medium may also be anhydrous or essentially anhydrous.
• composition used according to the invention may also comprise any additive that may be used in the field of application under consideration.
• It is preferably aqueous.
• it may comprise fragrances, UV-screening agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, pH regulators, sequestrants, free-radical scavengers, moisturizers, reducing agents, conditioning agents other than silicones, polymers and the surfactants mentioned previously, such as fatty esters, and vitamins.
• a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more volatile linear alkanes and one or more nonionic associative polymers, the nonionic associative polymer(s) being chosen from:
• polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks that are aliphatic chains alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic chains,
• the cosmetically acceptable medium and the volatile linear alkane(s) of the composition according to the invention may be defined in the same manner as the cosmetically acceptable medium and the volatile linear alkane(s) defined previously as regards the use according to the invention.
• the nonionic associative polymer(s) of families (1) to (6) of the composition according to the invention may be defined in the same manner as the nonionic associative polymers of families (1) to (6) defined previously as regards the use according to the invention.
• a rinse-out care composition according to the invention is prepared.
• the formulation is given in Table 1.
• the contents are expressed as grams of product in the given form per 100 g of composition.
• This composition is applied to heads.
• a rinse-out care composition that may be used according to the invention is prepared.
• the formulation is given in Table 2.
• the contents are expressed as grams of product in the given form per 100 g of composition.
• This composition is applied to heads.
• a leave-in care composition that may be used according to the invention is prepared.
• the formulation is given in Table 4.
• the contents are expressed as grams of product in the given form per 100 g of composition.
• n-Dodecane/n-tetradecane mixture (Vegelight 1214 from 2 Biosynthis) Cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50 C16/C18) 1 Copolymer of SMDI/polyethylene glycol bearing alkyl 4 (methyl/C18) end groups, at 15% in a maltodextrin/ water matrix (Aculyn 46) Crosslinked ethyltrimethylammonium methacrylate 1.3 chloride homopolymer as a 50% dispersion in a mixture of esters (Salcare SC96) Deionized water qs 100 Preserving agents qs Fragrance qs
• This composition is applied to heads. An improvement in the cosmetic performance qualities in terms of smoothing and sheen is observed.
• a leave-in care composition that may be used according to the invention is prepared.
• the formulation is given in Table 4.
• the contents are expressed as grams of product in the given form per 100 g of composition.
• This composition is applied to heads.
• a leave-in care composition that may be used according to the invention is prepared.
• the formulation is given in Table 5.
• the contents are expressed as grams of product in the given form per 100 g of composition.
• This composition is applied to heads.

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• 2009
  • 2009-12-23 FR FR0959481A patent/FR2954108B1/fr active Active
• 2010
  • 2010-12-16 EP EP10195381.8A patent/EP2338469B1/fr active Active
  • 2010-12-16 ES ES10195381.8T patent/ES2627955T3/es active Active
  • 2010-12-16 EP EP17158150.7A patent/EP3207918A1/fr not_active Ceased
  • 2010-12-23 US US12/977,204 patent/US20110165108A1/en not_active Abandoned
• 2015
  • 2015-04-10 US US14/683,345 patent/US9566220B2/en active Active

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