US20050274144A1

US20050274144A1 - Multiplet jewelry product and method of manufacture

Info

Publication number: US20050274144A1
Application number: US11/097,558
Authority: US
Inventors: Roy Goughnour; Robert Goughnour
Original assignee: Goughnour Roy R; Goughnour Robert L
Current assignee: SIGNITY AMERICAS Ltd
Priority date: 2004-06-09
Filing date: 2005-04-01
Publication date: 2005-12-15

Abstract

A multiplet jewelry product constructed of two or more layers of gemstone material affixed together with a transparent film disposed therebetween to form a composite unit. A translucent image is imprinted on the transparency film whereby refracted and reflected light is directed through the image imbedded within the gemstone product.

Description

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates generally to a jewelry product, and more particularly to a gemstone product having internally imbedded visual indicia which appears to be suspended or trapped within and a natural part of the gemstone.
Most natural gemstones are minerals that have been crystallized as a result of high temperatures and pressure exerted by nature on elements that form the earth's crust. Of more than 3000 minerals found on earth, only a small percentage qualify as gemstones due to their beauty, durability, color, and rarity. In recent years processes have been developed to produce synthetic gems of high quality almost indistinguishable from natural gems. Synthetic gemstones include alexandrite, coral, diamond, emerald, garnet, lapis lazuli, quartz, ruby, sapphire, spinel, and turquoise. Laboratory grown simulants have an appearance similar to that of a natural gemstone but have different optical, physical, and chemical properties. These include coral, cubic zirconia, lapis lazuli, malachite, and turquoise.
The most sought after are the transparent gems of pure color which possess special optical properties. Although these stones are quite ordinary looking in their native form, their special optical properties produce a very dramatic and pleasing appearance when the stone is cut and faceted properly. The main purpose of a faceted gem considered as an optical element is to reflect toward the observer's eye as large a portion of the incident light as possible. Although many different cut shapes are used, the most common, and the one that reflects the most light back toward the observer, is the brilliant cut. The shape of this cut is illustrated in FIGS. 1A and 1B. Nomenclature for the various parts of the shape is also shown in these figures.
In order to understand why gems are faceted, it is essential to understand how light behaves once it passes into a gemstone. When a ray of light strikes the surface of a gem, part of the light bounces off the surface and part passes through the surface into the gem (see FIG. 2). The part that bounces off the surface is said to be reflected, and the angle of incidence (i) equals the angle of reflection (f), where i and f are defined as shown on FIG. 2.
Light that passes from one material into another is bent or refracted. The amount the light bends will depend upon the optical properties of the two materials. This optical property is unique to each material and is termed the refractive index (RI).
Experimentally, it is found that for a ray of light passing from one material into another, the following equation, known as Snell's Law, can be written.
(RI)_isin(i)=(RI)_rsin(r)
Where:
(RI)_i=the refractive index of the incident material
(RI)_r=the refractive index of the refractive material
i=the angle of incidence, and
r=the angle of refraction
Two consequences of Snell's Law can be stated as:
1. The greater the difference in the refractive indices of the two materials, the more the ray is bent.
2. When light travels from a material of lower RI into a material of higher RI, the ray is bent toward the normal to the surface, and conversely when light travels from a material of higher RI into a material of lower RI, the ray is bent away from the normal to the surface (see FIG. 3).
Critical angle: FIG. 4 illustrates the case where light rays pass from a material with relatively large refractive index into a material with a smaller refractive index, such as internally from a gemstone into the air. As a consequence of Snell's law the ray is bent away from the normal to the surface. At A both reflection and refraction occur. The critical angle is defined by the situation shown at B, where the refracted ray is parallel to the surface. At C the incident angle is larger than the critical angle and no refracted ray is produced. In this case 100% of the light is reflected back into the gemstone.
Brilliance: The brilliance of a gemstone is defined as the intensity of the internal and external reflections of white light to the eye from the gem in the face-up position. When cut at the proper angle, the pavilion facets do their job by reflecting light which has entered the gemstone and is propagating through the gem material. In FIG. 5A the pavilion is cut shallow so that most rays entering the stone from the crown intersect the pavilion at an angle which allows the light to refract out of the stone. In FIG. 5C these rays reflect back into the stone when they strike the pavilion facets the first time, but are refracted out when they intersect the pavilion facets the second time. In FIG. 5B the pavilion facets are cut at such an angle that the majority of the light rays entering the crown are totally reflected back into the gem and subsequently out of the crown. Maximum brilliance occurs under this condition.
Dispersion and fire: Fire refers to the rainbow-like flashes of color seen in cut gemstones. It is essential to realize that white light is a combination of all light colors. The extent to which light is refracted is dependent on the wavelength (color) of the light. Blue light is bent more than red light. Dispersion is the measure of the amount of refraction of violet light minus the refraction of red light. The greater the difference between red and blue light, the greater the dispersion. FIG. 6 illustrates how white light is separated into its component colors to produce color flashes or fire in a gemstone.
Fire is influenced by the gemstones proportions in four ways; 1) the angle that light enters the stone, 2) the angle that light exits the stone, 3) the number of facet interactions (bounces) the light has inside the stone, and 4) the number of times the light rays spread across facet junctions. Different illumination conditions and surroundings (the viewing “panorama”) can enhance or diminish the appearance of fire.
Viewing panorama: Gemstones can appear dramatically different under different types of lighting, or viewing environment. The environment includes not only the type of lighting that is illuminating the stone, but also the surroundings (such as walls, ceiling, floor coloring, and other objects in the immediate area) in which the gem is viewed. All of these variables can be classified under viewing panorama.
An important distinction between typical office lighting and candlelight (or sunlight) is the spread of directions from which the light beams enter the gemstone. Office lighting (often fluorescent lighting that bounces off white ceilings and light-colored walls) is considered a type of diffused lighting. In completely diffused lighting, light strikes the stone evenly from everywhere and from all angles. Although this type of lighting may highlight the brightness of a polished stone, the more evenly diffused it is, the more it will suppress fire.
Candlelight or sunlight is the opposite of diffused lighting and is called directional lighting or spot lighting. In spot lighting, light strikes the gem from one or more single point sources which are small and bright compared to the areas around them. The contrast between the light and dark areas in spot lighting, along with the contrast due to the edges of the gem facets, brings out the fire in a gem.
Composite gemstones: A composite gemstone is any stone created by fusing or cementing together two or more pieces of material. When two main pieces are joined together they are called doublets, and when three pieces are joined together they are called triplets. Doublets and triplets generally are made for one of three reasons; to enhance the appearance of poor quality stones, to assemble small stones to create a larger stone, or to imitate more desirable, valuable gems. Often colored or tinted glue is used to join the pieces. The result is a diffusion of color throughout the entire stone.
Cabochon: A cabochon is a gem or bead cut in a convex form and highly polished but not given facets. Transparent cabochons with a flat bottom have occasionally been mounted over opaque photographs or art work, so that the photograph or art work is visible through the cabochon, as through a lens.
Numerous techniques exist for making jewelry items having aesthetically desirable characteristics. Many of these involve doublets or triplets with various methods of imparting color to the gem. A number of patents disclose gemstones or novelty items containing opaque items such as photographic prints, etchings, or objects secured between layers of glass or gem material.
Normann (U.S. Pat. No. 4,809,417) discloses a method of making multiplet jewelry with internally embedded opaque indicia. He describes a product constructed of two or more layers of material affixed together having opaque visual indicia secured therebetween. The top layer of the multiplet jewelry product is constructed of a material sufficiently transparent to permit observation of the visual indicia. Subsequent layers of material consist of a selected transparent, semi-transparent or non-transparent gemstone materials. Visual indicia useable in this invention is always opaque and includes symbolic representations, words, alphabet letters, pictures, designs, or objects. The designs, pictures, symbols, alphabet characters, and words preferably consist of colored or blackened opaque materials, including metal (e.g. gold, platinum, silver, palladium, steel, copper, bronze, aluminum, and titanium), paint, dye, ink, stain, resinate, ceramic decorating agents, or decal materials.
Normann's first step is to provide a first layer of transparent material and a second layer of gemstone material, wherein the first and second layers each have an interfacial surface. The indicia are applied to one of the interfacial surfaces, and the two layers are then joined together.
In a first embodiment his visual indicia is in the form of an opaque coating of at least one colored material, with the coating covering only selected portions of one or more of the interfacial surfaces, with regions adjacent being exposed and uncovered in order to produce a discontinuous design.
In a second embodiment the opaque coating is first applied to at least one of the interfacial surfaces, then at least one portion of said coating material is selectively removed so as to form a design. The portion being removed is removed in its entirety in order to expose the interfacial surface thereunder.
In a third embodiment the indicia is formed by depositing an opaque coating of metal on at least one of the interfacial surfaces, and then selected portions of the metal coating are removed by using a photoresist material. A similar technique is described in another embodiment using a combination of zirconium and gold along with the photoresist process.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It should be noted that if an opaque image on a transparent medium is illuminated by light passing through the transparent medium toward the observer, the image will appear as a silhouette only. Details on the opaque image can only be viewed under incident lighting. On the other hand, incident lighting is very ineffective for viewing a transparency. Effective viewing of the transparency requires backlighting passing through the transparency toward the observer.
Normann does not recognize, disclose or suggest the unique advantages and results obtained by using the teachings of the present invention wherein a transparency film similar to a slide or overhead transparency containing a translucent image imprinted thereon is imbedded in the gemstone. The present invention involves a method of creating a gemstone containing a transparent image that appears to be suspended or trapped within the stone. This is accomplished by encapsulating a transparency or transparent film on which the translucent image is imprinted between two or more pieces of gemstones. By so incorporating a translucent image into the gemstone, full advantage may be taken of the aforedescribed gemstone characteristics to thereby provide a unique result wherein the image is through illuminated such that the image appears to be an integral part of the gemstone.
The present invention incorporates a method of creating a gemstone containing a translucent image that appears to be an integral part of and suspended or trapped within the stone. This is accomplished by providing first and second layers of gemstone material having interfacial surfaces, providing a visual indicia in the form of transparency film with a translucent image imprinted thereon, and then securing the interfacial surfaces together, as by a suitable glue, with the imprinted film disposed between the interfacial surfaces in order to form a composite unit. Refracted and reflected light within the gemstone is directed through the translucent image giving it a fascinating quality of appearance and illumination through the gemstone. Normally these first and second layers of gemstone material are selected respectively as a gem crown and a gem pavilion. The gem pavilion is preferably provided with surface facets which are appropriately angled for directing refracted and reflected light through the translucent image for illumination.
More than one translucent image may be imbedded within the gemstone, thereby providing a three dimensional effect to the entrapped image. To accomplish this a second set of interfacial surfaces are provided in either the crown portion or the pavilion portion of the same gemstone and this second set of interfacial surfaces are also secured together with a second transparent film having a translucent image imprinted thereon disposed between the second set of interfacial surfaces.
The translucent image may be imprinted on the transparent film by any suitable means, such as by hand painting or digital printing, such as with an computer controlled ink jet printer.

DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Other objects and advantages appear hereinafter in the following description and claims. The accompanying drawings show, for the purpose of exemplification, without limiting the scope of the invention or appended claims, certain practical embodiments of the present invention wherein:
FIG. 1A is a top view of a faceted gemstone illustrating a common cut known as the brilliant cut;
FIG. 1B is a view in front elevation of the gemstone shown in FIG. 1A;
FIG. 2 is a graphical illustration illustrating how a ray of light interacts with the surface of a gem;
FIG. 3 is a graphical view illustrating a light ray passing from air into a gemstone, and out of a gemstone into air;
FIG. 4 is a graphical view illustrating total internal reflection within a gemstone;
FIGS. 5A, 5B and 5C are combination schematic and diagrammatic illustrations or views illustrating internal reflection and critical angle of a gemstone cut for reflected and refracted light rays;
FIG. 6 is a combination schematic and diagrammatic view illustrating how the edge of a gemstone acts as a prism;
FIG. 7 is a photographic perspective view of one embodiment of the multiplet jewelry product of the present invention in the form of a pendant;
FIG. 8 is an exploded perspective view of another doublet embodiment of the present invention; and
FIG. 9 is a view in front elevation of a triplet embodiment of the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

A multiplet jewelry product 10 constructed in accordance with the teachings of the present invention is photographically shown in FIG. 7. The product 10 is illustrated in the form of a pendant setting having a gemstone set therein and incorporating within the gemstone a translucent image 16 which is through lit or through illuminated by refracted and reflected light passing through the stone. This provides a unique result wherein the image 16 appears to be an integral part of the gemstone.
The method of constructing a multiplet jewelry product 10 in accordance with the teachings of the present invention is illustrated in the exploded perspective view of FIG. 8. In this embodiment the multiplet jewelry product 10 consists of a top layer 12, which is here illustrated as a brilliant cut crown, a transparency film 32 having a translucent image 16 imprinted thereon in the form of a digitally printed ink jet photograph 34, and a bottom layer 14 of gemstone in the form of a brilliant cut pavilion. The first and second layers 12 and 14 of gemstone material are provided with polished interfacial surfaces 22 and 28 respectively. These interfacial surfaces 22 and 28 together with the imprinted film 32 disposed therebetween are secured together with an appropriate cement or glue to form a composite unit with the translucent image 16 imbedded therein whereby refracted and reflected light within the gemstone is directed through the translucent image 34. Therefore the facets of pavilion layer 14 are preferably angled for directing refracted and reflected light through the image 16. The glue or cement utilized may for example consist of a clear transparent epoxy glue or a color transparent epoxy glue.
The encapsulated film 32 may be cut slightly smaller than the encapsulating stone pieces in order to protect the film from exposer to moisture and other harmful agents. Also, the image 16 shown in FIG. 8 is a translucent photographic print 34 which covers only a central portion of the film 32. However, the translucent photographic print 34 may, if desired, cover the entire surface of transparent film 32 as is illustrated in FIG. 7. Also, the photographic print 34 imprinted on film 32 as shown in FIG. 8 was imprinted through the use of a computer controlled inkjet computer. However, other suitable methods may be used to form the image as by hand painting, a photographic process and the use of a computer controlled laser printer instead of an inkjet printer. The image 16 may also consist of translucent initials, logos, symbols, artwork, as well as translucent photographs. Also, when using computer control techniques to apply the image 16 it is possible to imprint information to a very small scale. Such a scale could contain information such as medical information, identification, or even a serial number for the stone. Such information can thereafter be exposed through the use of a magnifying glass or microscope for reading.
The brilliance and fire of the stone are affected little, if any, by the inclusion of the translucent image 16 since it does not impede the natural pattern of light transmission within the stone. The effect is to produce an image 16 that appears to be suspended or to float within the gemstone as an integral part of the gemstone as may be best realized by viewing FIG. 7. The un-disrupted passage of light through the translucent image creates a pleasing and ethereal appearance to the image.
Also, unusual effects are provided particularly when the jewelry product is exposed to intense spot lighting, which causes distortion in the image, and requires that the image be viewed from one or more distinct angles. The image 16 appears to distort or breakup when viewed from angles intermediate to the preferred viewing angles, which adds to the mysterious or ethereal appearance of the image. In the embodiment of FIG. 8, the gemstone product 10 is illustrated in the form of brilliant cut gemstone. Of course other cuts are acceptable, such as illustrated, for example in FIG. 7.
Also, the embodiment shown in FIG. 8 is a doublet construction. A three dimensional effect may be added to the product 10 of the present invention by providing a triplet as shown in FIG. 9. In this arrangement an additional transparent film layer 18, having a translucent image imprinted thereon as before is disposed between a second set of interfacial surfaces in the pavilion layer 14 of the gemstone. This second set of interfacial surfaces together with the included transparent imprinted film 18 are cemented together in the same fashion as was the first transparent film 32 between first interfacial surfaces 22 and 28. This arrangement creates an image on both the top and bottom of the intermediate piece of gemstone between films 18 and 32 producing a three dimensional effect. Also, more than one intermediate piece can be used, or in other words even an additional transparent film with a translucent image imprinted thereon may be embedded within the gemstone providing three or more embedded spaced translucent images to enhance the three dimensional effect even further.
Other techniques may also be used to enhance the image visibility. For example, the cutlet, which is the bottom point or tip of the gemstone, may be enlarged. This cutlet tip may be flattened or rounded to prevent chipping. Normally enlarging the cutlet is undesirable. However, when it is enlarged the stone acts essentially as a window to the parallel top and bottom faces. When applied to a stone within an encapsulated translucent image as taught by the present invention, the image becomes crystal clear where it covers the cutlet. The size of the flattened cutlet may be adjusted relative to the image size to expose the entire image or just a portion thereof, leaving the periphery of the image exposed to the natural light transmission patterns within the stone.
Another technique which may be applied is by frosting the interfacial surface, such as surface 28, on the pavilion. This causes the rays reflected from the pavilion to be defused as they pass through the translucent image thereby rendering the image more visible. The amount of frosting can be controlled to attain varying degrees of visibility and brilliance.
Another feature which may be applied to the product 10 of the present invention is to use a frosted film 32. This achieves the same effect as frosting the gem interfacial surface, but which covers only the area of the image. This leaves the brilliance of the annular space around the image undiminished.
Also, the pavilion can be left as a cone shape in a round cut stone or smooth without faceting, matching individual shapes for other shaped stones. This eliminates the bright reflections from the pavilion. Alternatively, only a portion (usually the top part) of the pavilion may be faceted, thus creating any desired balance between brilliance and visibility of the translucent image 16.
The ideal angle on which the pavilion is cut can determine the amount of light that is reflected from the pavilion facets. A shallow or a deep cut will reflect less light thereby diminishing the brilliance produced. This can also enhance image visibility, but at the price of diminishing brilliance. Alternatively, the pavilion can be cut at the ideal angle in its top portion and at a shallower angle in the lower portion. This returns the annular space around the image with the brilliance and fire unimpeded, but enhances the visibility of the image. The lower the change in angle that is introduced on the pavilion, the smaller is the area through which the visibility of the image is enhanced.

Claims

1. A method of preparing a multiplet jewelry product with internally embedded visual indicia comprising the steps of:

providing first and second layers of gemstone material having interfacial surfaces;

providing visual indicia in the form of a transparency film with a translucent image imprinted thereon;

securing said interfacial surfaces together with said imprinted film disposed therebetween in order to form a composite unit with said translucent image embedded therein whereby refracted and reflected light is directed through said image.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein said first and second layers of gemstone material are selected respectively as a gem crown and a gem pavilion.

3. The method of claim 2, wherein said pavilion is provided with surface facets.

4. The method of claim 3, wherein said facets are angled for directing refracted and reflected light through said image.

5. The method of claim 1, including the step of providing a second set of interfacial surfaces in a selected one of said first and second layers and securing said second set of interfacial surfaces together with a second transparent film having a translucent image imprinted thereon disposed therebetween.

6. The method of claim 1, wherein said translucent image is imprinted on said film with a digital printer.

7. A multiplet jewelry product comprising:

first and second layers of gemstone material having interfacial surfaces;

a transparent film having a translucent image imprinted thereon and disposed and secured between said interfacial surfaces to form a composite unit with said image imbedded threin whereby refracted and reflected light is directed through said image.

8. The multiplet jewelry product of claim 7, wherein said first and second layers are respectively a gem crown and a gem pavilion.

9. The multiplet jewelry product of claim 8, said pavilion having surface facets.

10. The multiplet jewelry product of claim 9, wherein said facets are angled for directing refracted and reflected light through said image.

11. The multiplet jewelry product of claim 7, including a second set of interfacial surfaces in a selected one of said first and second layers with a second transparent film having a translucent image imprinted thereon secured between said second set of interfacial surfaces.

12. The multiplet jewelry product of claim 7, wherein said translucent image is comprised of ink.