US20040197279A1 - Self-foaming or mousse-type preparations comprising inorganic gel forming agents and organic hydrocolloids - Google Patents

Self-foaming or mousse-type preparations comprising inorganic gel forming agents and organic hydrocolloids Download PDF

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US20040197279A1
US20040197279A1 US10/469,706 US46970604A US2004197279A1 US 20040197279 A1 US20040197279 A1 US 20040197279A1 US 46970604 A US46970604 A US 46970604A US 2004197279 A1 US2004197279 A1 US 2004197279A1
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peg
composition
stearate
emulsifier
weight
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Andreas Bleckmann
Rainer Kropke
Heidi Riedel
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Beiersdorf AG
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to self-foaming and/or foam-like cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular to skincare cosmetic and dermatological preparations.
  • Foams or foam-like preparations are a type of disperse system.
  • Emulsions are two- or multi-phase systems of two or more liquids which are insoluble or only slightly soluble in one another.
  • the liquids pure or as solutions
  • the liquids are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, which generally has only limited stability.
  • Foams are structures of gas-filled, spherical or polyhedral cells which are delimited by liquid, semiliquid, high-viscosity or solid cell ribs.
  • the cell ribs connected via points of intersection form a continuous framework.
  • the foam lamellae stretch between the cell ribs (closed-cell foam). If the foam lamellae are disturbed or if they flow back into the cell rib at the end of foam formation, an open-cell foam is obtained.
  • Foams are also thermodynamically unstable since a reduction in the surface area leads to the production of surface energy. The stability and thus the existence of a foam is thus dependent on to what extent it is possible to prevent its self-destruction.
  • Cosmetic foams are usually dispersed systems of liquids and gases, where the liquid represents the dispersant and the gas represents the dispersed substance. Foams of low-viscosity liquids are temporarily stabilized by surface-active substances (surfactants, foam stabilizers). Because of their large internal surface area, such surfactant foams have a high adsorption capacity, which is utilized, for example, in cleaning and washing operations. Accordingly, cosmetic foams are used, in particular, in the fields of cleansing, for example as shaving foam, and of haircare.
  • foam formers surfactants or other interface-active substances
  • Cosmetic foams have the advantage over other cosmetic preparations of permitting a fine distribution of active ingredients on the skin.
  • cosmetic foams can generally only be achieved using particular surfactants, which, moreover, are often not well tolerated by the skin.
  • a further disadvantage of the prior art is that such foams have only low stability, for which reason they usually collapse within approximately 24 hours.
  • a requirement of cosmetic preparations, however, is that they have stability for years, as far as possible.
  • This problem is generally taken into account by the fact that the consumer produces the actual foam himself just before use using a suitable spray system for which purpose, for example, it is possible to use spray cans in which a liquefied pressurized gas serves as propellant gas. Upon opening the pressure valve, the propellant liquid mixture escapes through a fine nozzle, and the propellant evaporates, leaving behind a foam.
  • After-foaming cosmetic preparations are also known per se. They are firstly applied to the skin from an aerosol container in flowable form and, after a short delay, develop the actual foam only once they are on the skin under the effect of the after-foaming agent present, for example a shaving foam. After-foaming preparations are often in specific formulation forms, such as, for example, after-foaming shaving gels or the like.
  • the prior art does not include any sort of cosmetic or dermatological preparations which could be foamed as early as during the preparation and nevertheless have a sufficiently high stability in order to be packaged in the usual manner, stored and put onto the market.
  • An object of the present invention was therefore to enrich the prior art and to provide cosmetic or dermatological self-foaming and/or foam-like preparations which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • German laid-open specification DE 197 54 659 discloses that carbon dioxide is a suitable active ingredient for stabilizing or increasing the epidermal ceramide synthesis rate, which may serve to enhance the permeability barrier, reduce the transepidermal water loss and increase the relative skin moisture.
  • the CO 2 is, for example, dissolved in water, which is then used to rinse the skin.
  • the prior art hitherto does not include any sort of cosmetic or dermatological bases in which a gaseous active ingredient could be incorporated in an adequate, i.e. effective, concentration.
  • foam-like cosmetic emulsions which are characterized by a high introduction of air cannot be formulated or prepared industrially without propellent gas. This is true in particular for systems which are based on classic emulsifiers and gelling agents and develop a foam with an extraordinarily high stability as a result of shearing (stirring, homogenization).
  • the introduction of the gases is aided, and a stabilizing and significantly after-foaming effect is achieved over a prolonged storage period, even at relatively high temperatures (e.g. 40° C.), without comprising after-foaming agents customary according to the prior art, such as, for example, by propellent gases.
  • self-foaming or “foam-like” are understood as meaning that the gas bubbles are present in (any) distributed form in one (or more) liquid phase(s) where the preparations do not necessarily have to have the appearance of a foam in macroscopic terms.
  • Self-foaming and/or foam-like cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can, for example, be macroscopically visibly dispersed systems of gases dispersed in liquids.
  • the foam character can, however, for example, be visible also only under a (light) microscope.
  • self-foaming and/or foam-like preparations according to the invention are, particularly when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope, also recognizable from the sharp increase in volume of the system.
  • the preparations according to the invention are entirely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was particularly surprising that the foam-like preparations according to the invention are extraordinarily stable, even in cases of an unusually high gas volume. Accordingly, they are particularly suitable for use as bases for preparation forms having diverse use purposes.
  • the preparations according to the invention have very good sensory properties, such as, for example, distributability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, and are, moreover, characterized by above-average skincare.
  • the invention further provides for the use of self-foaming and/or foam-like cosmetic or dermatological preparations which comprise
  • C at least one coemulsifier C chosen from the group of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched fatty alcohols having a chain length of from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
  • V one or more substances chosen from the group of organic hydrocolloids as cosmetic or dermatological bases for gaseous active ingredients.
  • the emulsifier(s) A is/are preferably chosen from the group of fatty acids which have been wholly or partially neutralized with customary alkalis (such as, for example, sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate and/or potassium carbonate, and mono- and/or triethanolamine).
  • customary alkalis such as, for example, sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate and/or potassium carbonate, and mono- and/or triethanolamine.
  • Stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates, and myristic acid and myristates, for example, are particularly advantageous.
  • the emulsifier(s) B is/are preferably chosen from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, P
  • the coemulsifier(s) C is/are preferably chosen according to the invention from the following group: butyloctanol, butyldecanol, hexyloctanol, hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol, behenyl alcohol (C 22 H 45 OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C 16 H 33 OH) and stearyl alcohol (C 18 H 37 OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols, which are the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of wool wax which is obtained following the saponification of wool wax). Particular preference is given to cetyl alcohol and cetylstearyl alcohol.
  • weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A:B:C) as a:b:c, where a, b and c, independently of one another, may be rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3. Particular preference is given to a weight ratio of approximately 1:1:1.
  • the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and of coemulsifier C from the range from 2 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 8 to 13% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the gas phase of the preparations comprises carbon dioxide or consists entirely of carbon dioxide. It is particularly advantageous if carbon dioxide is a or the active ingredient in the preparations according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention develop, even during their preparation—for example during stirring or upon homogenization—into fine-bubble foams.
  • fine-bubble, rich foams of excellent cosmetic elegance are obtainable.
  • preparations which are particularly well tolerated by the skin are obtainable according to the invention, where valuable ingredients can be distributed on the skin in a particularly good manner.
  • formulations according to the present invention may comprise further emulsifiers. Preference is given to using those emulsifiers which are suitable for the preparation of W/O emulsions, it being possible for these to be present either individually or else in any combinations with one another.
  • the further emulsifier(s) is/are advantageously chosen from the group which comprises the following compounds:
  • the further emulsifier(s) is/are chosen from the group of hydrophilic emulsifiers.
  • particular preference is given to mono-, di- and tri-fatty acid esters of sorbitol.
  • the total amount of further emulsifiers is, according to the invention, advantageously chosen to be less than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • Particularly advantageous self-foaming and/or foam-like preparations for the purposes of the present invention are free from mono- or diglyceryl fatty acid esters. Particular preference is given to preparations according to the invention which comprise no glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl lanolate and/or glyceryl laurate.
  • the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously chosen from the group of nonpolar lipids having a polarity ⁇ 30 mN/m.
  • Particularly advantageous nonpolar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are those listed below.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, and further hydrogenated polyolefins, such as hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane and squalene, in particular, are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the invention.
  • the content of the lipid phase is advantageously chosen to be less than 30% by weight, preferably between 2.5 and 30% by weight, particularly preferably between 5 and 15% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. It may also be advantageous, although it is not obligatory, for the lipid phase to comprise up to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the lipid phase, of polar lipids (having a polarity of ⁇ 20 mN/m) and/or medium-polarity lipids (having a polarity of from 20 to 30 mN/m).
  • particularly advantageous polar lipids are all native lipids, such as, for example, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, groundnut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheatgerm oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like and those listed below.
  • Particularly advantageous medium-polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are those listed below Polarity (Water) Manufacturer Trade name INCI name mN/m Henkel Cognis Cetiol OE Dicaprylyl Ether 30.9 Dihexyl carbonate Dihexyl Carbonate 30.9 Albemarle S.A.
  • the inorganic thickener or thickeners can advantageously be chosen, for example, from the group of modified or unmodified, naturally occurring or synthetic phyllosilicates.
  • phyllosilicates are understood as meaning silicates and alumosilicates in which the silicate or aluminate units are linked together via three Si—O— or Al—O— bonds and form a wavy sheet or layer structure.
  • the fourth Si—O— or Al—O— valence is saturated by cations.
  • the layer structure meanwhile, is largely defined by strong, covalent bonds.
  • m is a number greater than zero and less than 2.
  • the charge balance is preferably evened out by H + , alkali metal ions or alkali earth metal ions.
  • Aluminum as counterion is also known and advantageous. In contrast to the alumosilicates, these compounds are called aluminum silicates. “Aluminum alumosilicates”, in which aluminum is present both in the silicate network, and also as counterion, are also known and sometimes advantageous for the present invention.
  • Montmorillonite is the main mineral of the naturally occurring bentonite.
  • Very advantageous inorganic gelling agents for the purposes of the present invention are aluminum silicates, such as the montmorillonites (bentonites, hectorites and derivatives thereof, such as quaternium-18 bentonites, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bentonites and stearalkonium hectorites), and also magnesium-aluminum silicates (Veegum® grades) and sodium-magnesium silicates (Laponite® grades).
  • montmorillonites bentonites, hectorites and derivatives thereof, such as quaternium-18 bentonites, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bentonites and stearalkonium hectorites
  • magnesium-aluminum silicates Veegum® grades
  • sodium-magnesium silicates Liaponite® grades
  • Montmorillonites represent clay minerals which belong to the dioctahedral smectites, and are masses which swell in water, but do not become plastic.
  • the layer packets in the three-layer structure of the montmorillonites can swell as a result of reversible incorporation of water (in a 2- to 7-fold amount) and other substances, such as; for example, alcohols, glycols, pyridine, ⁇ -picoline, ammonium compounds, hydoxy-aluminosilicate ions etc.
  • Synthetic magnesium silicates and/or bentonites advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are sold, for example, by Süd-Chemie under the trade name Optigel®.
  • An aluminum silicate advantageous for the purposes of the present invention is sold, for example, by R. T. Vanderbilt Comp., Inc., under the trade name Veegum®.
  • the various Veegum® grades which are all advantageous according to the invention, are characterized by the following compositions (regular grade) HV K HS S-728 SiO 2 55.5 56.9 64.7 69.0 65.3 MgO 13.0 13.0 5.4 2.9 3.3 Al 2 O 3 8.9 10.3 14.8 14.7 17.0 Fe 2 O 3 1.0 0.8 1.5 1.8 0.7 CaO 2.0 2.0 1.1 1.3 1.3 Na 2 O 2.1 2.8 2.2 2.2 3.8 K 2 O 1.3 1.3 1.9 0.4 0.2 ashing loss 11.1 12.6 7.6 5.5 7.5
  • Bentone® is a trade name for various neutral and chemically inert gelling agents which are constructed from long-chain organic ammonium salts and specific types of montmorillonite. Bentones swell in organic media and cause the latter to swell. The gels are resistant in dilute acids and alkalis, although they partially lose their gelling properties upon prolonged contact with strong acids and alkalis. Because of their organophilic character, the bentones are only wettable by water with difficulty.
  • Bentone® grades are sold, for example, by Kronos Titan: Bentone® 27, an organically modified montmorillonite, Bentone® 34 (dimethyldioctylammonium bentonite), which is prepared in accordance with U.S. Pat. No.
  • Bentone® 38 an organically modified montmorillonite, a cream-colored to white powder, Bentone® LT, a purified clay mineral, Bentone® Gel MIO, an organically modified montmorillonite, which is supplied as a very fine suspension in mineral oil (SUS-71) (10% bentonite, 86.7% mineral oil and 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone® Gel IPM, an organically modified bentonite which is suspended in isopropyl myristate (10% bentonite, 86.7% isopropyl myristate, 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone® Gel CAO, an organically modified montmorillonite which is taken up in castor oil (10% bentonite, 86.7% castor oil and 3.3% wetting agent),
  • Bentone® Gel Lantrol an organically modified montmorillonite which, in paste form, is intended for further processing, in particular for the preparation of cosmetic compositions; 10% bentonite, 64.9 lantrol (wool wax oil), 22.0 isopropyl myristate, 3.0 wetting agent and 0.1 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, Bentone® Gel Lan I, a 10% strength Bentone® 27 paste in a mixture of wool wax USP and isopropyl palmitate, Bentone® Gel Lan II, a bentonite paste in pure, liquid wool wax, Bentone® Gel NV, a 15% strength Bentone® 27 paste in dibutyl phthalate, Bentone® gel OMS, a bentonite paste in Shellsol T. Bentone® Gel OMS 25, a bentonite paste in isoparaffinic hydrocarbons (Idopar® H), Bentone® Gel IPP, a bentonite paste in isopropyl palmitate.
  • Hydrocolloid is the technological abbreviation for the more correct name “hydrophilic colloid”. Hydrocolloids are macromolecules which have a largely linear structure and have intermolecular forces of interaction which permit secondary and primary valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a recticular structure. Some are water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers which, in aqueous systems, form gels or viscous solutions. They increase the viscosity of the water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or else by absorbing and encapsulating the water into their interwoven macromolecules, at the same time as restricting the mobility of the water.
  • Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers whose common feature is their solubility in water or aqueous media. A prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a number of hydrophilic groups sufficient for solubility in water and are not too greatly crosslinked.
  • the hydrophilic groups may be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:
  • the group of the cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be divided as follows into:
  • organic, natural compounds such as, for example, agar agar, carrageen, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, carob bean flour, starch, dextrins, getalins, caseine,
  • organic, modified natural substances such as, for example, carboxymethylcellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose and microcrystalline cellulose,
  • organic, completely synthetic compounds such as, for example, polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polyurethanes
  • inorganic compounds such as, for example, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicas.
  • Microcrystalline cellulose is an advantageous hydrocolloid for the purposes of the present invention. It is obtainable, for example, from the “FMC Corporation Food and Pharmaceutical Products” under the trade name Avicel®.
  • a particularly advantageous product for the purposes of the present invnetion is the Avicel® grade RC-591, which is modified microcrystalline cellulose which is composed of 89% of microcrystalline cellulose and 11% of sodium carboxymethylcellulose.
  • Further commercial products of this class of raw material are Avicel® RC/CL, Avicel® CE-15, Avicel® 500.
  • hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, methylcelluloses, which is the term used for the methyl ethers of cellulose.
  • methylcelluloses which is the term used for the methyl ethers of cellulose.
  • The are characterized by the following structural formula
  • R may be a hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • cellulose mixed ethers which are generally likewise referred to as methylcelluloses, which contain, in addition to a predominating content of methyl groups, additionally 2-hydroxyethyl groups, 2-hydroxypropyl groups or 2-hydroxybutyl groups.
  • methylcelluloses Particular preference is given to (hydroxypropyl)methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel® E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.
  • sodium carboxymethylcellulose the sodium salt of the glycolic ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I may be a hydrogen and/or CH 2 —COONa.
  • R in structural formula I may be a hydrogen and/or CH 2 —COONa.
  • Particular preference is given to the sodium carboxy-methylcellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon and also referred to as cellulose gum.
  • xanthan also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide which is usually formed by fermentation from corn sugar and is isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions and has a molecular weight of from 2 ⁇ 10 6 to 24 ⁇ 10 6 .
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain having ⁇ -1,4-bonded glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • Xanthan is the name given to the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain having ⁇ -1,4-bonded glucose (cellulose) with side chains.
  • the structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • the number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthan.
  • Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on carbohydrate used. In this connection, yields of 25-30 g/l are achieved. After the culture has been destroyed, work-up takes place by precipitation with, for example, 2-propanol. Xanthan is then dried and ground.
  • An advantageous gel former for the purposes of the present invention is also carrageen, a gel-forming extract with a similar structure to agar, from North Atlantic red algae, which belong to the Florideae ( Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata ).
  • carrageen is frequently used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract thereof.
  • the carrageen precipitated from the hot-water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range from 100 000-800 000 and a sulfate content of about 25%.
  • Carrageen which is very readily soluble in warm water, forms a thixotropic gel upon cooling, even if the water content is 95-98%.
  • the rigidity of the gel is effected by the double helix structure of carrageen.
  • the gel-forming ⁇ fraction consists of D-galactose 4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose, which has alternate glycoside bonds in the 1,3- and 1,4-position (by contrast, agar contains 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -L-galactose).
  • the nongelling ⁇ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose 2-sulfate and 1,4-bonded D-galactose-2,6-disulfate radicals, and is readily soluble in cold water.
  • ⁇ -Carrageenan composed of D-galactose 4-sulfate in 1,3 bond and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose 2-sulfate in 1,4 bond, is both water-soluble and also gel-forming. Further carrageen grades are likewise referred to using Greek letters: ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , X.
  • the type of cations present (K + , NH 4 + , Na + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageens.
  • Chitosan represents a partially deacylated chitin.
  • This biopolymer has, inter alia, film-forming properties and is characterized by a silky feel on the skin.
  • a disadvantage is its severe stickiness on the skin which occurs in particular—temporarily—during application. In individual cases, corresponding preparations may not then be marketable since they are unacceptable to and/or viewed negatively by the consumer.
  • chitosan is used, for example, in hair care. It is suitable, to a better degree than the chitin on which it is based, as a thickener or stabilizer and improves the adhesion and water resistance of polymeric films.
  • Chitosan is characterized by the following structural formula:
  • n assumes values of up to 10 000
  • X is either the acetyl radical or hydrogen.
  • Chitosan forms by deacetylation and partial depolymerization (hydrolysis) of chitin, which is characterized by the structural formula
  • arthropods e.g. insects, crabs, spiders
  • supporting tissues of other organisms e.g. molluscs, algae, fungi.
  • chitosan In the region of about pH ⁇ 6, chitosan is positively charged and in that range is also soluble in aqueous systems. It is incompatible with anionic raw materials. For this reason, to prepare chitosan-containing oil-in-water emulsions, the use of nonionic emulsifiers is appropriate. These are known per se, for example from EP-A 776 657.
  • Polyacrylates are gelling agents likewise to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Polyacrylates advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those chosen from the group of so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of B.F. Goodrich Company).
  • the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers advantageous according to the invention are characterized by the following structure:
  • R′ is a long-chain alkyl radical
  • x and y represent numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of each of the comonomers.
  • acrylate copolymers and/or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are available under the trade name Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984 from B.F. Goodrich Company, preferably polyacrylates from the group of Carbopol grades 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984 and particularly preferably Carbomer 2001.
  • ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurates/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers have the empirical formula [C 7 H 16 N 2 SO 4 ] n [C 6 H 9 NO] m , which corresponds to the following statistical structure
  • copolymers/crosspolymers comprising acryloyl dimethyl taurate, such as, for example, Simugel® EG or Simugel® EG from Seppic S.A.
  • Component i) is, in particular, a diol, aminoalcohol, diamine, polyesterol, polyetherol with a number-average molecular weight of in each case up to 3000, or mixtures thereof, where up to 3 mol % of said compounds may be replaced by triols or triamines. Preference is given to diols and polyesterdiols.
  • component (a) comprises at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of component (a), of a polyesterdiol.
  • Suitable polyesterdiols are all those which are customarily used for the preparation of polyurethanes, in particular reaction products of phthalic acid and diethylene glycol, isophthalic acid and 1,4-butanediol, isophthalic acid/adipic acid and 1,6-hexanediol, and adipic acid and ethylene glycol or 5-NaSO 3 -isophthalic acid, phthalic acid, adipic acid and 1,6-hexanediol.
  • diols which can be used are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, polyetherols, such as polyethylene glycols with molecular weights up to 3000, block copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with number-average molecular weights of up to 3000 or block copolymers of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide which contain the copolymerized alkylene oxide units in random distribution or in the form of blocks.
  • Preference is given to ethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexaethylene glycol.
  • Other diols which can be used are poly( ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid)diols.
  • Suitable amino alcohols are, for example, 2-aminoethanol, 2-(N-methylamino)ethanol, 3-aminopropanol or 4-aminobutanol.
  • Suitable diamines are ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-diaminobutane and 1,6-diaminohexane, and ⁇ , ⁇ -diamines which can be prepared by amination of polyalkylene oxides with ammonia.
  • Component ii) is, in particular, dimethylolpropanoic acid or compounds of the formulae
  • RR is in each case a C 2 -C 18 -alkylene group and Me is Na or K.
  • Component iii) is, in particular, hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, methyldiphenyl isocyanate (MDI) and/or tolylene diisocyanate.
  • the polyurethanes are obtainable by reacting the compounds of groups i) and ii) under an inert-gas atmosphere in an inert solvent at temperatures of from 70 to 130° C. with the compounds of group iii). This reaction can optionally be carried out in the presence of chain extenders in order to prepare polyurethanes with relatively high molecular weights.
  • the components [(i)+(ii)]:iii) are advantageously used in the molar ratio from 0.8 to 1.1:1.
  • the acid number of the polyurethanes is determined by the composition and the concentration of the compounds of component (ii) in the mixture of components (i)+(ii).
  • the polyurethanes have K values according to H. Fikentscher (determined in 0.1% strength by weight solutions in N-methylpyrrolidone at 25° C. and pH 7) of from 15 to 100, preferably 25 to 50.
  • the K value also referred to as the intrinsic viscosity, is a parameter which is easy to determine by means of viscosity measurements of polymer solutions and is therefore frequently used in the industrial sector for characterizing polymers.
  • the polyurethanes containing acid groups are, after neutralization (partial or complete), water-soluble or dispersible without the aid of emulsifiers.
  • the salts of the polyurethanes generally have better solubility or dispersibility in water than the unneutralized polyurethanes.
  • Bases which can be used for the neutralization of the polyurethanes are alkali metal bases, such as sodium hydroxide solution, potassium hydroxide solution, soda, sodium hydrogencarbonate, potassium carbonate or potassium hydrogencarbonate, and alkaline earth metal bases, such as calcium hydroxide, calcium oxide, magnesium hydroxide or magnesium carbonate, and ammonia and amines.
  • 2-Amino-2-methylpropanol, diethylaminopropylamine and triisopropanolamine have proven particularly useful for the neutralization of the polyurethanes containing acid groups.
  • the neutralization of the polyurethanes containing acid groups can also be carried out using mixtures of two or more bases, e.g. mixtures of sodium hydroxide solution and triisopropanolamine. Depending on the intended use, neutralization may be partial, e.g. up to 20 to 40%, or complete, i.e. 100%.
  • Preferred diisocyanates are as given above under 1).
  • Compounds with two or more active hydrogen atoms are diols, aminoalcohols, diamines, polyesterols, polyamidediamines and polyetherols. Suitable compounds of this type are as given above under 1).
  • the polyurethanes are prepared as described above under 1).
  • Charged cationic groups can be produced in the polyureas from the tertiary amino nitrogen atoms present either by protonation, e.g. with carboxylic acids, such as lactic acid, or by quaternization, e.g. with alkylating agents, such as C 1 -C 4 -alkyl halides, or sulfates.
  • alkylating agents such as C 1 -C 4 -alkyl halides, or sulfates.
  • alkylating agents are ethyl chloride, ethyl bromide, methyl chloride, methyl bromide, dimethyl sulfate and diethyl sulfate.
  • Linear polyurethanes with carboxylate groups comprising
  • RR′ is a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 20 -alkyl group, which is used in an amount which suffices for 0.35 to 2.25 milliequivalents of carboxyl groups to be present in the polyurethane per g of polyurethane,
  • the polymers used according to the invention preferably have a K value of from 25 to 100, preferably 25 to 50.
  • the polymers are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount in the range from 0.2 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the salt is used in an amount effective for improving the exchangeability of the polymers. In general, the salt is used in an amount of from 0.02 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of one more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen to be less than 5% % by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations according to the invention can have the customary composition.
  • skincare preparations are particularly advantageous: they can be used for cosmetic and/or dermatological light protection, and also for the treatment of the skin and/or of the hair and as make-up products in decorative cosmetics.
  • a further advantageous embodiment of the present invention consists in aftersun products.
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions can be used, for the purposes of the present invention, for example as skin protection cream, day cream or night cream etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a base for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also be “cleansing foams” which can be used, for example, for the removal of make-up or as a mild washing foam, possibly also for bad skin.
  • Such cleansing foams can advantageously also be used as “rinse-off” preparations, which are rinsed from the skin following application.
  • the cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of a foam for care of the hair or of the scalp, in particular a foam for arranging the hair, a foam which is used when blow-drying the hair, a styling foam and treatment foam.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and/or the hair in an adequate amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can comprise cosmetic auxiliaries, as are customarily used in such preparations, e.g. preservatives, preservative assistants, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments which have a coloring action, moisturizers and/or humectants, fillers which improve the feel on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other customary constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation, such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries e.g. preservatives, preservative assistants, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments which have a coloring action, moisturizers and/or humectants, fillers which improve the feel on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other customary constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation, such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents
  • preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde donors (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin), iodopropylbutyl carbamates (e.g. those available under the trade names Koncyl-L, Koncyl-S and Konkaben LMB from Lonza), parabens, phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservative system usually also advantageously comprises preservative assistants, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soybean etc.
  • antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously comprise one or more antioxidants.
  • antioxidants which may be used are all antioxidants customary or suitable for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously chosen from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles e.g. urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof
  • salts thereof dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthionine sulfoximines in very low tolerated doses (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol/kg)
  • very low tolerated doses e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol/kg
  • metal chelating agents e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g.
  • citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof
  • unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and derivatives thereof ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, ferulic acid and derivatives thereof, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacic acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO 4 ), selenium and derivatives thereof (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these listed active ingredients which are suitable according to the invention.
  • stilbenes and derivatives thereof e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
  • water-soluble antioxidants such as, for example, vitamins, e.g. ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, can be used particularly advantageously.
  • a surprising property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients into the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • Preferred antioxidants here are vitamin E and derivatives thereof, and vitamin A and derivatives thereof.
  • the amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • vitamin E and/or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant(s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or derivatives thereof are the anti-oxidant(s)
  • active ingredients can also very advantageously be chosen according to the invention from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:
  • vitamins of the B and D series very favorably vitamin B 1 , vitamin B 12 and vitamin D 1 , but
  • the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for example purcellin oil, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.
  • the active ingredient(s) is/are also particularly advantageously chosen from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, particularly if the preparations according to the invention are to be used for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and/or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin.
  • a preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.
  • the active ingredient(s) is/are also advantageously chosen from the group which includes catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which have a content of catechins or bile esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular of the species Camellia sinensis (green tea).
  • Particularly advantageous are typical ingredients thereof (such as e.g. polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids).
  • Catechins are a group of compounds which are to be regarded as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidines and are derivatives of “catechin” (catechol, 3,3′,4′,5,7-flavanpentaol, 2-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)chroman-3,5,7-triol).
  • Catatechin ((2R,3R)-3,3′,4′,5,7-flavanpentaol) is also an advantageous active ingredient for the purposes of the present invention.
  • plant extracts with a content of catechins in particular extracts of green tea, such as e.g. extracts from leaves of plants of the species Camellia spec., very particularly the types of tea Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis and C. irrawadiensis and hybrids of these with, for example, Camellia japonica .
  • Preferred active ingredients are also polyphenols or catechins from the group ( ⁇ )-catechin, (+)-catechin, ( ⁇ )-catechin gallate, ( ⁇ )-gallocatechin gallate, (+)-epicatechin, ( ⁇ )-epicatechin, ( ⁇ )-epicatechin gallate, ( ⁇ )-epigallocatechin and ( ⁇ )-epigallocatechin gallate.
  • Flavone and its derivatives are also advantageous active ingredients for the purposes of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions are shown):
  • flavones are usually in glycosylated form.
  • the flavonoids are preferably chosen from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Z 1 to Z 7 independently of one another, are chosen from the group consisting of H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched or unbranched and have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and where Gly is chosen from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside radicals.
  • the flavonoids can however, also advantageously be chosen from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Z 1 to Z 6 independently of one another, are chosen from the group consisting of H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched or unbranched and have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and where Gly is chosen from the group of mono and oligoglycoside radicals.
  • such structures can be chosen from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Gly 1 , Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another, are monoglycoside radicals.
  • Gly 2 and Gly 3 can also, individually or together, represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • Gly 1 , Gly 2 and Gly 3 are chosen from the group of hexosyl radicals, in particular of rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, can also be used advantageously in some circumstances. It may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.
  • Z 1 to Z 5 are, independently of one another, advantageously chosen from the group consisting of H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure
  • flavone glycosides according to the invention are particularly advantageously chosen from the group given by the following structure:
  • Gly 1 , Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another, are monoglycoside radicals.
  • Gly 2 and Gly 3 can also, individually or together, represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • Gly 1 , Gly 2 and Gly 3 are chosen from the group of hexosyl radicals, in particular of rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, can also advantageously be used in some circumstances. It may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.
  • flavone glucoside(s) from the group consisting of ⁇ -glucosylrutin, ⁇ -glucosylmyricetin, ⁇ -glucosylisoquercitrin, ⁇ -glucosylisoquercetin and ⁇ -glucosylquercitrin.
  • naringin (aurantin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), hesperidin (3′,5,7-trihydroxy-4′-methoxyflavanone-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside), rutin (3,3′,4′,5,7-pentahydroxyflyvone-3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutan, rutabion, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3′,4′,7-tris(2-hydroxyethoxy)flavone-3-(6-O-(6-deoxy- ⁇ -L-mannopyranosyl)- ⁇ -D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3′,4′,5-tetrahydroxy-7-(2-hydroxyethoxy)flavon
  • Coenzyme Q10 is particularly advantageous and is characterized by the following structural formula:
  • PQ-9 e.g. PQ-9
  • other plastoquinones with varying substituents on the quinone ring exist.
  • Creatine and/or creatine derivatives are preferred active ingredients for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:
  • Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified at the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols.
  • a further advantageous active ingredient is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4-(trimethylammonio)-butyrobetaine].
  • Acylcarnitines which chosen from the group of substances of the following general structural formula
  • R is chosen from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms
  • R is chosen from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms
  • R is advantageous active ingredients for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Both enantiomers (D and L form) are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any enantiomer mixtures, for example a racemate of D and L form.
  • Further advantageous active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and aroma substances.
  • Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical noxae, can have a cumulative effect and, for example, accelerate or add to the endogenous aging processes.
  • the epidermis and dermis experience, in particular as a result of exogenous factors, e.g. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which go beyond the degree and quality of the damage in the case of chronological aging:
  • formulations according to the invention can also have an anti-wrinkle action or considerably increase the action of known antiwrinkle active ingredients. Accordingly, for the purposes of the invention, formulations are particularly advantageously suitable for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, as arise, for example, during skin aging. They are also advantageously suitable for combating the development of dry or rough skin.
  • the present invention thus relates to products for the care of skin aged in a natural manner, and for the treatment of the secondary damage of light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).
  • the water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously comprise customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those of low carbon number, preferably ethanol and/or isopropanol, diols or polyols of low carbon number, and ethers thereof, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethyleneglycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and moisturizers.
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those of low carbon number, preferably ethanol and/or isopropanol, diols or polyols of low carbon number, and ethers thereof, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or
  • Moisturizers is the term used to describe substances or mixtures of substances which, following application or distribution on the surface of the skin, confer on cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the moisture loss by the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and/or have a beneficial effect on the hydration of the horny layer.
  • TEWL transepidermal water loss
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of polysaccharides which are soluble in water and/or swellable in water and/or gellable using water.
  • Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and/or a fucose-rich polysaccharide which is listed in Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and is available, for example, under the name Fucogel®1000 from SOLABIA S.A.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can comprise dyes and/or color pigments, particularly when they are in the form of decorative cosmetics.
  • the dyes and color pigments can be chosen from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Directive or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases they are identical to the dyes approved for foods.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO(OH)) and/or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and/or color pigments from the following list.
  • the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products, which are intended for use in the facial area, it is favorable to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1-(2′-chloro-4′-nitro-1′-phenyl-azo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceres Red, 2-(4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2′-azonaphthalene-1′-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1-(2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1-(2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum Salt of 1-(4-sulfo-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthol-6
  • oil-soluble natural dyes such as, for example, paprika extracts, ⁇ -carotene or cochenille.
  • Natural pearlescent pigments such as, for example
  • pearl essence (guanine/hypoxanthin mixed crystals from fish scales)
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as, for example, bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)
  • Layer-substrate pigments e.g. mica/metal oxide
  • Bases for pearlescent pigments are, for example, pulverulent pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and/or titanium dioxide, and bismuth oxychloride and/or titanium dioxide on mica.
  • the luster pigment listed under CIN 77163, for example, is particularly advantageous.
  • pearlescent pigment based on mica/metal oxide Group Coating/layer thickness Color
  • Silver-white pearlescent TiO 2 40-60 nm silver pigments
  • Interference pigments TiO 2 : 60-80 nm yellow TiO 2 : 80-100 nm red
  • TiO 2 100-140 nm blue
  • TiO 2 120-160 nm green
  • Color luster pigments Fe 2 O 3 bronze Fe 2 O 3 copper Fe 2 O 3 red Fe 2 O 3 red-violet Fe 2 O 3 red-green Fe 2 O 3 black
  • Combination pigments TiO 2 /Fe 2 O 3 gold shades TiO 2 /Cr 2 O 3 green TiO 2 /Berlin blue deep blue TiO 2 /carmine red
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are obtainable by numerous methods known per se.
  • other substrates apart from mica can be coated with further metal oxides, such as, for example, silica and the like.
  • SiO 2 particles coated with, for example, TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 (“ronaspheres”), which are marketed by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine lines are advantageous.
  • effect pigments which are obtainable under the trade name Metasome Standard/Glitter in various colors (yellow, red, green, blue) from Flora Tech.
  • the glitter particles are present here in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Colour Index (CI) Numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the dyes and pigments may be present either individually or in a mixture, and can be mutually coated with one another, different coating thicknesses generally giving rise to different color effects.
  • the total amount of dyes and color-imparting pigments is advantageously chosen from the range from e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • UV-A and/or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams or make-up products.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants, and, if desired, preservatives, also constitute effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of a sunscreen are particularly advantageous.
  • the preparations additionally comprise at least one further UV-A and/or UV-B filter substance.
  • the formulations may, although not necessarily, optionally also comprise one or more organic and/or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances which may be present in the water and/or oil phase.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and/or other metal compounds which are insoluble or virtually insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.
  • such pigments may advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), the intention being to form or retain, for example, an amphiphilic or hydrophobic character.
  • This surface treatment can consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophobic layer by processes known per se.
  • titanium dioxide pigments which have been coated with octylsilanol.
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T805 from Degussa.
  • TiO 2 pigments coated with aluminum stearate e.g. those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.
  • a further advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of dimethyl-polysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of completely methylated, linear siloxane polymers which have been terminally blocked with trimethylsiloxy units.
  • dimethyl-polysiloxane also: dimethicone
  • a mixture of completely methylated, linear siloxane polymers which have been terminally blocked with trimethylsiloxy units.
  • Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are zinc oxide pigments which have been coated in this way.
  • the inorganic pigments it is advantageous for the inorganic pigments to be additionally coated with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No.: 1333-84-2).
  • titanium. dioxides which have been coated with simethicone and alumina, it also being possible for the coating to comprise water.
  • An example thereof is the titanium dioxide available under the trade name Eusolex T2000 from Merck.
  • An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2′-methylenebis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-( 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol) [INCI: bisoctyltriazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • Tinosorb® M is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.
  • Preparations according to the invention advantageously comprise substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and/or UV-B range, the total amount of filter substances being, for example, from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations which protect the hair and the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used as sunscreens for the hair or the skin.
  • Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4-(tert-butyl)-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the name Parsol® 1789 and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3′-5,5′-tetrasulfonic acid:
  • 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzene and salts thereof in particular the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt
  • benzene-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid
  • Advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are also broadband filters, i.e. filter substances which absorb both UV-A and also UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bisresorcinyltriazine derivatives having the following structure:
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are chosen from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, or are a single hydrogen atom. Particular preference is given to 2,4-bis ⁇ [4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl ⁇ -6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH
  • particularly advantageous preparations which are characterized by high or very high UV-A protection preferably comprise two or more UV-A and/or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example 4-(tert-butyl)-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example 2,2′-methylenebis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol)], phenylene-1,4-bis(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3′-5,5′-tetrasulfonic acid and/or its salts, 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzene and/or salts thereof and/or 2,4-bis ⁇ [4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl ⁇ -6-(4-methoxyphenyl
  • UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European laid-open specification EP 570 838 A1, whose chemical structure is expressed by the generic formula
  • R is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
  • X is an oxygen atom or an NH group
  • R 1 is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
  • R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n is a number from 1 to 10
  • R 2 is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups, when X is the NH group, and
  • A is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
  • R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n is a number from 1 to 10
  • a particularly preferred UV filter substance for the purposes of the present invention is also an unsymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is expressed by the formula
  • dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone), and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.
  • invention is a symmetrically substituted s-triazine, tris(2-ethylhexyl) 4,4′,4′′-(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tris-benzoate, synonym: 2,4,6-tris[anilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Octyl Triazone), which is marketed by BASF A ktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
  • R 1 , R 2 and A 1 represent very different organic radicals.
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2′-methylenebis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol), which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)-oxy]disiloxanyl]propyl]phenol (CAS No.: 155633-54-8) having the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • the UV-B and/or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Examples of advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and/or broadband filter substances are:
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di(2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate;
  • salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or its triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself;
  • sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor such as, for example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
  • a further light protection filter substance which can be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul® N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:
  • UV filters which can be used for the purposes of the present invention is, of course, not intended to be limiting.
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously comprise the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and/or UV-B region in a total amount of, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations which protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used as sunscreens for the hair or the skin.
  • Emulsion III % by wt. % by vol. Stearic acid 5.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol 5.50 PEG-30 stearate 1.00 Xanthan gum 0.10 Cellulose gum 0.10 Magnesium silicate 0.10 Cyclomethicone 3.00 Isoeicosane 10.00 Polydecene 10.00 Citric acid 0.10 Glycerol 3.00 Perfume, preservative, q.s. Sodium hydroxide q.s. Dyes etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0-7.5 Emulsion III 65 Gas (air) 35

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WO2009017865A1 (fr) * 2007-07-31 2009-02-05 Geo2 Technologies, Inc Substrat céramique à base de fibres et son procédé de fabrication
US20100126521A1 (en) * 2007-12-26 2010-05-27 Kyte Iii Kenneth Eugene Personal Care Compositions Containing Skin Conditioning Agents
US8147825B2 (en) 2004-01-22 2012-04-03 University Of Miami Topical co-enzyme Q10 formulations and methods of use
US8454945B2 (en) 2007-03-22 2013-06-04 Berg Pharma Llc Topical formulations having enhanced bioavailability
FR3034988A1 (fr) * 2015-04-20 2016-10-21 Soc D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Ind Chimiques Seppic Nouvelles emulsions cosmetiques se presentant sous la forme de mousse, procede pour leur obtention et leur utilisation en cosmetique
WO2016170246A1 (fr) 2015-04-20 2016-10-27 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Nouvelles émulsions cosmétiques se présentant sous la forme de mousse, procédé pour leur obtention et leur utilisation en cosmétique
US9896731B2 (en) 2009-05-11 2018-02-20 Berg Llc Methods for treatment of oncological disorders using an epimetabolic shifter (coenzyme Q10)
US9901542B2 (en) 2013-09-04 2018-02-27 Berg Llc Methods of treatment of cancer by continuous infusion of coenzyme Q10
US10105297B2 (en) 2016-04-01 2018-10-23 L'oreal Sunscreen compositions and methods for boosting efficacy
US10376477B2 (en) 2011-04-04 2019-08-13 Berg Llc Method of treating or preventing tumors of the central nervous system
US10668028B2 (en) 2008-04-11 2020-06-02 Berg Llc Methods and use of inducing apoptosis in cancer cells
US10758463B2 (en) 2016-04-01 2020-09-01 L'oreal Heat-protective compositions and methods of use
US10925826B2 (en) * 2013-02-15 2021-02-23 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising a vinylformamide/vinylformamine copolymer, a cellulose-based thickening polymer and an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant
US10933032B2 (en) 2013-04-08 2021-03-02 Berg Llc Methods for the treatment of cancer using coenzyme Q10 combination therapies
US10973763B2 (en) 2011-06-17 2021-04-13 Berg Llc Inhalable pharmaceutical compositions
FR3117789A1 (fr) * 2020-12-22 2022-06-24 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une argile, au moins un corps gras cristallisable et au moins un filtre UV liposoluble
US11400058B2 (en) 2010-03-12 2022-08-02 Berg Llc Intravenous formulations of coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) and methods of use thereof

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US8147825B2 (en) 2004-01-22 2012-04-03 University Of Miami Topical co-enzyme Q10 formulations and methods of use
US8562976B2 (en) 2004-01-22 2013-10-22 University Of Miami Co-enzyme Q10 formulations and methods of use
US8586030B2 (en) 2004-01-22 2013-11-19 University Of Miami Co-enzyme Q10 formulations and methods of use
US20050169866A1 (en) * 2004-01-29 2005-08-04 Manuela Hannich Emulsion-form hair treatment compositions containing solid particles
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US8454945B2 (en) 2007-03-22 2013-06-04 Berg Pharma Llc Topical formulations having enhanced bioavailability
US20080283465A1 (en) * 2007-05-14 2008-11-20 Geo2 Technologies, Inc. Low coefficient of thermal expansion bonding system for a high porosity ceramic body and methods of manufacture
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US10668028B2 (en) 2008-04-11 2020-06-02 Berg Llc Methods and use of inducing apoptosis in cancer cells
US9896731B2 (en) 2009-05-11 2018-02-20 Berg Llc Methods for treatment of oncological disorders using an epimetabolic shifter (coenzyme Q10)
US11028446B2 (en) 2009-05-11 2021-06-08 Berg Llc Methods for treatment of oncological disorders using an epimetabolic shifter (coenzyme Q10)
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US11400058B2 (en) 2010-03-12 2022-08-02 Berg Llc Intravenous formulations of coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) and methods of use thereof
US10376477B2 (en) 2011-04-04 2019-08-13 Berg Llc Method of treating or preventing tumors of the central nervous system
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US10973763B2 (en) 2011-06-17 2021-04-13 Berg Llc Inhalable pharmaceutical compositions
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US10933032B2 (en) 2013-04-08 2021-03-02 Berg Llc Methods for the treatment of cancer using coenzyme Q10 combination therapies
US9901542B2 (en) 2013-09-04 2018-02-27 Berg Llc Methods of treatment of cancer by continuous infusion of coenzyme Q10
US11298313B2 (en) 2013-09-04 2022-04-12 Berg Llc Methods of treatment of cancer by continuous infusion of coenzyme Q10
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US10758463B2 (en) 2016-04-01 2020-09-01 L'oreal Heat-protective compositions and methods of use
US10105297B2 (en) 2016-04-01 2018-10-23 L'oreal Sunscreen compositions and methods for boosting efficacy
FR3117789A1 (fr) * 2020-12-22 2022-06-24 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une argile, au moins un corps gras cristallisable et au moins un filtre UV liposoluble
WO2022136519A1 (fr) * 2020-12-22 2022-06-30 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une argile, au moins un composé gras cristallisable et au moins un filtre uv liposoluble

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EP1370214A1 (fr) 2003-12-17
ATE345765T1 (de) 2006-12-15
JP2004519495A (ja) 2004-07-02
ES2275838T3 (es) 2007-06-16
DE10113053A1 (de) 2002-09-19
WO2002074253A1 (fr) 2002-09-26
DE50208783D1 (de) 2007-01-04
EP1370214B1 (fr) 2006-11-22

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